Desert Companion - June 2011

Page 33

06.2011

News Reviews In t e rv i e w s

dining Well done The best barbecue in Las Vegas is served out of a truck in front of a plant store. We staged a taste-along to steal some secrets

T by brock radke

This is for the people

Jimmy Cole serves up some of the valley’s best barbecue — from a truck, no less.

PHOTOGRAPHY By SABIN ORR

who have been to my house for a barbecue. I know it was fun, I know it was good, and I know that once I write this, you might not want my ribs anymore. I’ve been cheating. It’s been going on for a long time, and I knew it was wrong, but it was fun and I couldn’t resist. See, years ago, someone taught me a trick: how to get perfectly tender ribs without long hours of slow smoking. It’s not much of a trick, actually; it’s just steaming the meat. After grilling the seasoned ribs, I cut them into smaller sections and wrap them in airtight aluminum foil packets with a generous splash of sweet, spicy barbecue sauce. Some indirect heat, an hour and a half later, the perfect fraud is complete. I feel guilty now. I feel dirty. I’ve wronged you, Friend Who Eats My Ribs, and you deserve better. I’m ready to atone, but I need help: barbecue therapy. I need you to know I take our cookout relationship seriously, and I take this cuisine seriously. This is

d e s e r t c o m pa n i o n . c o m 31


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