Beach + bouldering ? by novebi

ukBouldering public forums => bouldering => Topic started by: mark on January 04, 2006, 01:02:05 pm

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: mark on January 04, 2006, 01:02:05 pm Where should I take my family on holiday this summer? We are now stuck with having to go in the school holidays so everywhere is expensive, busy and hot. Requirements are good beaches for the kids and decent bouldering closeby for me to escape to for a couple of hours a day. And not too hot, as I can sunburn near powerful lightbulbs. Any suggestions? Ploumanac'h in Brittany is the best combination I know of but I've heard the bouldering isn't actually all that good. Anywhere better?

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Fiend on January 04, 2006, 01:24:50 pm Gargheugh Point, Galloway. Portleven (SP!), Aberdeen.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: SA Chris on January 04, 2006, 01:30:43 pm I wouldn't call Portlethen a beach, by any stretch of the imagination. Porth Ysgo is more of a beach than that. There's some good stuff around bude as well as down around Gwythian. Do a site search for Cornwall Bouldering for more info. There's loads to be had up in Scotland too; Oldshoremore, Sandwood Bay, etc. Some in South Wales; Ogmore, Porthcawl and Gower.There are some nice beaches around Reiff too, Beware the midge though. Worldwide, Seychelles looks good, and there is some good stuff on Llandudno in Cape Town, but water is a bit harsh for swimming.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: gr on January 04, 2006, 01:35:22 pm If you want sand but aren't to bothered by having the sea then Font of course. Kids will love Disneyland too...

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Pantontino on January 04, 2006, 01:37:44 pm The very same conversation has been occurring in my house this last week. I went to Brittany last summer and was disappointed with the bouldering. Maybe I missed the good stuff, but I did have a good look around. Have you thought about Corsica? Just googled these two links for Turkey: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=134 Akyarlar is 25 minutes from the campsite at GeyikbaÃƒÂ½rÃƒÂ½ and is situated directly on the sea front. It is a relatively small (around 20 routes) but a nice climbing area situated in a beautiful bay. The rather steep rocky footpath down to the bay frightens most nonclimbers, which means you normally have the whole bay for yourself. In summer it is the perfect place to climb, boulder, bathe and to hang out. With the first moves you are faced with boulder problems on rocks washed smooth and rounded by the sea, after that you'll find climbing on vertical walls.

http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=13 From the Dedigol our next main destination was the hippy hang out beach life on the south coast at the tree houses of Olympos. Based in our teetering tree abodes we set off down the valley and put up numerous new routes on the steep limestone walls. What grabbed and kept our attention though was the fantastic beach bouldering and deep water solo's. If you can drag yourself off the beach there are loads of areas developed up and down the coast from here on the highly featured tufa packed limestone. Check out the Antalya section of the brand new Turkish climbing site at www.climbturkey.com.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: fatneck on January 04, 2006, 01:42:27 pm You need not look any further than the beautifull Lleyn Peninsula! Fantastic, quiet beaches next to excellent venues like Porth Ysgo/Porth Oer. It's relatively well placed for accessing Cae Du as well as the more inland areas (Llanberis Pass, Ogwen Valley etc). Add to this the fact that the weather is often much better than elsewhere in the country due to the special micro climate of the Lleyn and you have an excellent package. I must admit to being very biased and would rather have family holiday's in North Wales than anywhere else in the world. That said my kids love it as well so it's not just me! Check it out!

said my kids love it as well so it's not just me! Check it out!

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: IanP on January 04, 2006, 02:28:28 pm As someone said if proper quality bouldering is your aim then Font is possibly the best option. Plenty of sand, kiddy circuits and Eurodisney for the children. I've also had some good fun in south Devon (south Hams) a lovely beach at Mattiscombe Bay with some suprisingly enjoyable bouldering and Dartmoor bouldering within 1 hour day trip. The South Hams area has very nice beaches in general particularly if the kids are young.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: ObiWan is lost... on January 04, 2006, 02:43:39 pm Quote from: "fatneck" You need not look any further than the beautifull Lleyn Peninsula!

I've got to agree with Fatneck, the Lleyn is great. Personally the drive to the Lleyn is short enough for a long weekend, or even a twodayer if the surf's up! Theres a wide selection of good campsites from the most basic (where you'll find CLM and me) to super posh ones with static caravans and shops and stuff. The beaches are immense and you'll always find a quiet spot even in the height of summer if your are prepared to walk a bit. Cornwall also has a lot going for it, but the beaches tend to get busier, and its a pain in the arse to get to on most summer weekends.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Ru on January 04, 2006, 02:54:51 pm Not a sea beach, but what about the Ardeche/Chassezac in France. Known for it's roped climbing, there's actually a large amount of bouldering there within walking distance of the campsites by the river. Lots of pics and a pdf topo here: http://membres.lycos.fr/castelbloc/

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Johnny Brown on January 04, 2006, 03:45:14 pm Gotta agree, the lleyn is amazing, its still one of my favourite places and one of the only areas of the uk that never fails to impress foreigners. Plus Porth Ysgo is the only place I go bouldering in summer. (http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/adamlong/gallery/landscape/uk/neigwl.jpg)

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Falling Down on January 04, 2006, 03:50:33 pm Another vote for the Lleyn from me... I virtually grew up there as a kid. It does have a better climate than the rest of Nth Wales and there is loads to do. Porth Oer and Porth Ysgo for Bouldering. Hells Mouth, Ceriad and a few more secret spots for surfing, body boarding and kayaking. Sailing and Windsurfing at the other main beaches. Great snorkelling on the Rocky North Coast. Some great pubs and resturaunts. The mountains are only an hours drive away and it's easier to explore the western reaches of Snowdonia that are much quieter than the honeypots.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: fatneck on January 04, 2006, 03:52:55 pm Good photo JB! There's more here; http://www.lowefoto.com/konica/page37.html Hopefully hitting Porth Ysgo for my birthday day out at the end of the month (am on my knees three times a day praying for good conditions). Can't wait :!: :!:

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: SA Chris on January 04, 2006, 03:55:02 pm That is indeed a money shot.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: fatneck on January 04, 2006, 04:06:31 pm Sort of weakly still on this thread, just found a pretty neat little video. Top left on this page http://www.boulderingvideos.com/videos.html Not quite enough bouldering, but awesome looking venue!

Post by: fatneck on January 04, 2006, 04:06:31 pm Sort of weakly still on this thread, just found a pretty neat little video. Top left on this page http://www.boulderingvideos.com/videos.html Not quite enough bouldering, but awesome looking venue!

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Johnny Brown on January 04, 2006, 04:10:16 pm Go on then here's another, from the opposite direction. (http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/adamlong/gallery/landscape/uk/cilan.jpg)

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: mark on January 04, 2006, 04:57:22 pm Cheers all, some good suggestions here. My responses... Scottish venues I grew up in Edinburgh and am aware of the 2 big problems with Scottish holidays: rain and midges. Would be doing well to convince my wife we should head north rather than south. Font Off there for a week at Easter. Have spent a few days in the forest in the summer and the frustration of poor conditions was too much so don't think I'll be lobbying for a summer holiday there. Corsica Went there a year and a bit ago. We had a fantastic holiday but I thought the bouldering was poor. Valdu di Saltu had a dozen good problems but the rest were about 2 moves from a sitstart. We did have one day at a place by the sea in the extreme south of the island. It's called La Punta or Capineru and is very good. Unfortunately about a 2 hour drive from our villa so we didn't go back. The island is gorgeous. We had 2km long beaches completely to ourselves. Plus I drove 2 stages of the WRC Tour de Corse. In a Renault Espace. Turkey Too hot in summer for those of us with the pasty gene. Lleyn We went there last summer. Had a great time. First time I'd been and was impressed. Beaches were lovely, though I'll take a wetsuit next time. Could be the winner. Devon Went there two years ago and I wasn't impressed with the bouldering. Plus it's just sooo busy in the summer. Bloody tourists clogging up the roads with their overloaded sensible family cars full of stir crazy children screaming, "Dad, are we there yet?" Oh wait, that's my life nowadays. Ardeche Hmm, hadn't considered that. Some research required. Anyone been? Thanks for the suggestions. Keep them coming.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: ObiWan is lost... on January 04, 2006, 04:57:28 pm Quote from: "fatneck" but awesome looking venue!

(http://www.casarocalta.com/images/SpringBayBeach.jpg) Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands ...not a patch on the Lleyn! :?

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: ObiWan is lost... on January 04, 2006, 05:02:33 pm Quote from: "mark" Ardeche Hmm, hadn't considered that. Some research required. Anyone been?

Think CLM was there a couple of summers ago...he liked it, plenty of river activites to replace the beach fun, not sure about the climbing.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: SA Chris on January 04, 2006, 05:06:18 pm Quote from: "Obi Wan is lost..." Quote from: "fatneck" but awesome looking venue!

(http://www.casarocalta.com/images/SpringBayBeach.jpg) Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands ...not a patch on the Lleyn! :?

Looks uncannily like (http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/gd_llandudno.jpg) Except waves at Llandudno are better and the water a hell of a lot colder.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where?

Looks uncannily like (http://www.climbing.co.za/topo/gd_llandudno.jpg) Except waves at Llandudno are better and the water a hell of a lot colder.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Pantontino on January 04, 2006, 05:29:02 pm I automatically assumed that you wanted guaranteed hot weather, so didn't mention the obvious delights of the Lleyn. The Porth Oer cave is the ultimate family bouldering scenario. 15 problems up to V6/7a and some harder projects to play on if it's windy (i.e. dry). Next door to a small sandy bay which has a steep runnel access which deflects most of the tourists on to the busy main beach (which also has a cafe if you fancy a brew/ice cream break). It can be damp on muggy days, but I've never been and not climbed. I might put a topo together if I can find some suitable photos. I'm just reading a great book called The Rotters Club by Jonathan Coe the family in the story spend their holidays camping on Cilan Head. I think it's an omen: I'll see if I can persuade my missus to just stay local this year.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: c.j.d. on January 04, 2006, 07:59:25 pm Do Not, I repeat, do not listen to the font of knowledge. Ploumanach is awsesome. If its good enough for Fred Nicole, Sebastien Frigault, Olivier Lebreton and Steve Haston, it must be pretty good. It is however, a big place (4 6km of coastline all covered in pink granite (Le Cote de Granit Rose). As Panton says (and I have had this conversation with him) he may have gone to the wrong place. I stayed in Trestrarou and walked pretty much the whole coast line (I got just past Ploumanach). I got home and found that there is alot of stuff at Tregastel right at the NW of the peninsular. If you want more info give us a PM and I'll point you in the direction of some Grimper issues (will have to look these up). I did however, do loads of quality bouldering, developed and adventure style.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: mark on January 04, 2006, 08:48:29 pm Quote from: "c.j.d." Do Not, I repeat, do not listen to the font of knowledge. Ploumanach is awsesome. If its good enough for Fred Nicole, Sebastien Frigault, Olivier Lebreton and Steve Haston, it must be pretty good. It is however, a big place (4 6km of coastline all covered in pink granite (Le Cote de Granit Rose). As Panton says (and I have had this conversation with him) he may have gone to the wrong place. I stayed in Trestrarou and walked pretty much the whole coast line (I got just past Ploumanach). I got home and found that there is alot of stuff at Tregastel right at the NW of the peninsular. If you want more info give us a PM and I'll point you in the direction of some Grimper issues (will have to look these up). I did however, do loads of quality bouldering, developed and adventure style.

Very interesting. I was under the impression that it looks great but is all a bit crumbly. If that's not the case they I'm keen. Particularly if you can direct me to this... (http://img2.postimage.org/192673/Ploumanach.jpg) (http://img2.postimage.org/sports/bouldering/192673/bouldering.html)

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Pantontino on January 04, 2006, 09:34:32 pm I saw that problem. It did look cool, and there was a fine looking despy thing round to the left (Fred's 8a I think?), but apart from one or two other lines dotted around, that was it in the vicinity. CJD must've been on the wacky baccie. :roll:

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Jim on January 04, 2006, 09:39:02 pm Me and some mates went to cote de granite rose on cjd's article that he did in ote. its pretty good if you want to go on holiday and do some climbing (not visa versa tho). There are even a couple of bolted routes there! There is plenty to look at. The granite is large grained and often covered with some sea moss of sorts that is easy to clean. It can trash your skin somewhat. I went with the misses as well in sept (ie not school holidays) and got a mini house thing at the big campsite fairly cheap for a week. Best probs I did was some highball thing that I can't remember were it was ,lie down start to the ufo boulder and sit start to beau arete. I will post up some piccies tomorrow if you want. I've been twice and will prob go with the misses again (but I wouldn't take the lads)

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Control freak on January 04, 2006, 10:20:59 pm Quote from: "Obi Wan is lost..." Quote from: "mark" Ardeche Hmm, hadn't considered that. Some research required. Anyone been?

Think CLM was there a couple of summers ago...he liked it, plenty of river activites to replace the beach fun, not sure about the climbing.

Theres plenty of sport climbing in the Ardeche but not sure about bouldering. Its probably not too great unless your into soloing 500foot 7As. Another possible venue is nice. Im not sure what the bouldering is like but theres definitely some about. I think I bumped into Mr Swann a few years ago on the ferry over and he was headed out there with his clan. Definitely worth further investigation

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Ru on January 04, 2006, 11:11:09 pm Quote Theres plenty of sport climbing in the Ardeche but not sure about bouldering. Its probably not too great unless your into soloing 500foot 7As.

No there is, honest. Check out the site I posted on the previous page. On the Chassezac, there's some bouldering down by the river where the climbing is, but on top of the plateau there's absolutely stacks of it. It's basically like a very eroded limestone pavement lots of pinnacles and mini buttresses in a forest. Nice. Problems up to 8a.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Control freak on January 05, 2006, 01:12:18 am I bow to your superiour knowledge Ru

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Fiend on January 05, 2006, 09:34:41 am Quote Scottish venues I grew up in Edinburgh and am aware of the 2 big problems with Scottish holidays: rain and midges. Would be doing well to convince my wife we should head north rather than south.

Not really a problem in both venues mentioned, they are well away from the West Coast horrors. Never had any midge problems despite visiting both (general areas) a few times in summer. SW Scotland can be particularly nice in summer too.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: SA Chris on January 05, 2006, 10:43:10 am Rain in SW and NE Scotland is as reliable as anywhere else in the country. No midges at Portlethen, but we have been bitten at Muchalls a couple of times in the summer, so they may be spreading their wings. I wouldn't recommend anyone travelling more than 10 miles to boulder at Portlethen, plus there is no real beach to speak of, unless you mistook the polystyrene along the high tide mark for sand.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Hendo on January 05, 2006, 11:01:27 am I agree with Fiend here, Sandyhills and Garheugh are brilliant venues. Garheugh for a well established set of problems from font 3 to font 7c and Sandyhills (font 3 to font 8a+) and if you fancy bagging some FA's. No midges at either beach, although Garheugh is pretty rocky and the good beach is 1 mile down the coast from the boulders. Also Larbrax, totally amazing venue just being developed, beautiful beaches and water. Craig H

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: gr on January 05, 2006, 01:38:11 pm or howzabout northumberland. excellent bouldering. amazing beaches.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Andy F on January 05, 2006, 01:45:41 pm The beaches in Northumberland are lovely to look at but the waters bloody freezing. World class climbing though...

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Resonate on January 05, 2006, 02:24:45 pm Cornwall! you have: 1) Clodgy Point (30+ quality problems up to 7C) not really a beach tho 2) Godreavy (100+ quality problems, up to 8A, but most around 4c5c) amazing beach 3) Gwenver (30+ quality problems up to 7C+) amazing beach 4) Several secret spots (most are secret cos they'ere nudist beaches in the summer tho) check out http://www.dbcs.org.uk/ for some photos

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Andy W on January 05, 2006, 09:59:47 pm Cornwall! you have: 1) Clodgy Point (30+ quality problems up to 7C) not really a beach tho 2) Godreavy (100+ quality problems, up to 8A, but most around 4c5c) amazing beach 3) Gwenver (30+ quality problems up to 7C+) amazing beach 4) Several secret spots (most are secret cos they'ere nudist beaches in the summer tho) Quote

As a local,(St Ives) just wondering about your info RE the grades, where are the 7c's and 8a's?

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where?

2) Godreavy (100+ quality problems, up to 8A, but most around 4c5c) amazing beach 3) Gwenver (30+ quality problems up to 7C+) amazing beach 4) Several secret spots (most are secret cos they'ere nudist beaches in the summer tho) Quote

As a local,(St Ives) just wondering about your info RE the grades, where are the 7c's and 8a's?

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Andy W on January 05, 2006, 10:01:22 pm ok I got the quote bit wrong there.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: LucyA on January 06, 2006, 05:56:41 pm Quote from: "Andy F" The beaches in Northumberland are lovely to look at but the waters bloody freezing.

I spent nearly all my summer hols as a little Lu up in the county. Beaches were great, didn't notice the cold 'cos I'd never been taken anywhere hot!! It's a great place for kids, doesn't get too busy and the sand is awesome as is the climbing.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Little Paul on January 06, 2006, 07:18:40 pm You could try Angel Bay in North Wales , its an amazin place but may be a bit rainy as it is quite a lot of the time were I live !!! :D

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: ned on January 06, 2006, 07:47:47 pm Is your avatar taken at Angel Bay?

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Andy F on January 07, 2006, 12:13:00 pm Quote from: "LucyA" The beaches in Northumberland are lovely to look at but the waters bloody freezing.quote] I spent nearly all my summer hols as a little Lu up in the county. Beaches were great, didn't notice the cold 'cos I'd never been taken anywhere hot!! It's a great place for kids, doesn't get too busy and the sand is awesome as is the climbing.

I had a few hols along the County coast as a youth, lived in Newcastle at the time. I remember putting up 3 windbreakers so my mum could sit and get some sun without freezing. The rock pools were great fun (around Alnwick IIRC) for dipping in as they got a lot warmer than the sea.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Little Paul on January 07, 2006, 12:14:49 pm Quote from: "ned" Is your avatar taken at Angel Bay?

Yes it good place ye. :D

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Jim on January 07, 2006, 09:24:02 pm nice french spot going on there :o

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Sypeland on January 08, 2006, 02:01:13 pm Pateley Bridge! theres a swimming pool and a sand pit in the park and the bouldering aint bad either.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: paulh on January 08, 2006, 04:56:22 pm Quote from: "Ru" Quote Theres plenty of sport climbing in the Ardeche but not sure about bouldering. Its probably not too great unless your into soloing 500foot 7As.

he's right. loads of weird limestone bouldering with numbered curcuits ala font, but no way near the same quality, at the top of the gorge at Mazet(sp?) Plage, was there a few years ago, 2 be honest i thought the bouldering was better than the routes, but only cos the routes are too long and it was too hot, and i hate long routes in the hot. wouldnt go there for the bouldering on its own

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: AndyR on January 08, 2006, 07:28:50 pm

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: AndyR on January 08, 2006, 07:28:50 pm West coast of Ireland around connemara fantastic beaches (I mean, really great beaches), and there's bits and bobs of bouldering to be had around there enough to keep one busy for a while lots of exploring to be had as well. I can't believe people are suggesting north wales good god, the man wants a holiday, not a prison sentence......

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Little Paul on January 08, 2006, 08:36:59 pm Quote from: "AndyR" West coast of Ireland around connemara fantastic beaches (I mean, really great beaches), and there's bits and bobs of bouldering to be had around there enough to keep one busy for a while lots of exploring to be had as well. I can't believe people are suggesting north wales good god, the man wants a holiday, not a prison sentence......

I resent that comment.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: AndyR on January 09, 2006, 10:24:10 am Quote from: "Little Paul" Quote from: "AndyR" West coast of Ireland around connemara fantastic beaches (I mean, really great beaches), and there's bits and bobs of bouldering to be had around there enough to keep one busy for a while lots of exploring to be had as well. I can't believe people are suggesting north wales good god, the man wants a holiday, not a prison sentence......

I resent that comment.

Why?

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Sypeland on January 09, 2006, 10:30:50 am Quote from: "AndyR" Quote from: "Little Paul" Quote from: "AndyR" West coast of Ireland around connemara fantastic beaches (I mean, really great beaches), and there's bits and bobs of bouldering to be had around there enough to keep one busy for a while lots of exploring to be had as well. I can't believe people are suggesting north wales good god, the man wants a holiday, not a prison sentence......

I resent that comment.

Why?

I think his location may answer your question! I'm going to Fuerteventura in three weeks, don't expect to much climbing there but I'll still throw my shoes in.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: AndyR on January 09, 2006, 10:42:28 am Quote from: "Francis Holland" Quote from: "AndyR" Quote from: "Little Paul" Quote from: "AndyR" West coast of Ireland around connemara fantastic beaches (I mean, really great beaches), and there's bits and bobs of bouldering to be had around there enough to keep one busy for a while lots of exploring to be had as well. I can't believe people are suggesting north wales good god, the man wants a holiday, not a prison sentence......

I resent that comment.

Why?

I think his location may answer your question! I'm going to Fuerteventura in three weeks, don't expect to much climbing there but I'll still throw my shoes in.

I'll call the RSPCA to make sure they know to ignore all the false alarms regarding beached wales....

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Sypeland on January 09, 2006, 11:26:30 am Quote from: "AndyR" Quote from: "Francis Holland"

I'll call the RSPCA to make sure they know to ignore all the false alarms regarding beached wales....

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Sypeland on January 09, 2006, 11:26:30 am Quote from: "AndyR" Quote from: "Francis Holland"

I'll call the RSPCA to make sure they know to ignore all the false alarms regarding beached wales....

Says the man who comes t'dale and does nowt but eat pies!

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Gabba on January 14, 2006, 07:27:09 pm Angel bay is nice bouldering but the beach sucks there, and if i remember rightly some evil ankle snapping falls.... Ireland is a good choice, i dont climb at all anymore but ive heard its good, the link below is the Irish Guide http://www.theshortspan.com/guide.pdf Hey first post yay...... thinking of getting back into bouldering again, so i came here,

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: a dense loner on January 14, 2006, 11:26:09 pm it's as good a place as any to come tho truthfully i wouldn't walk a dog on angel bay :shock:

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Pantontino on January 15, 2006, 05:20:59 pm I take it you failed on Sonic Boom then. :wink:

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: a dense loner on January 15, 2006, 10:13:55 pm i looked at it, berated jim n keenus for bringing me, n walked off :wink:

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Jim on January 15, 2006, 11:13:44 pm no he never looked at it :D quality problem

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Control freak on January 16, 2006, 03:25:49 am Quote no he never looked at it :D quality problem

You know what that surprises me. Not like Dense at all..

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: a dense loner on January 16, 2006, 11:44:02 am no, i did look at it. i just wasn't there when you were trying it. i had to go n wash my hair, n i'm bald

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Little Paul on January 16, 2006, 05:23:09 pm Quote from: "a dense loner"

tho truthfully i wouldn't walk a dog on angel bay :shock:

R u tryin 2 call my mum a dog? i've walked there with my mum and dad loads of times :D :lol:

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: mark on January 16, 2006, 09:22:21 pm I went to Angel Bay once and thought it was rather pleasant. Solid, mostly dry rock, the sea splashing about nearby, noone else around, what's not to like? Some people... Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. Quite a few venues mentioned here are now on the list for future holidays. In the end the decision has gone to Britany. Have booked the last two weeks of the summer holidays in a gite with a beautiful sandy beach at the bottom of the garden. So the family bit gets a big, fat tick. I'm optimistic about the climbing. Doesn't take much to keep me entertained and in several kilometres of granite there must be more than enough for a fortnight's bouldering.

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: a dense loner on January 16, 2006, 09:57:39 pm Quote I went to Angel Bay once and thought it was rather pleasant. Solid, mostly dry rock, the sea splashing about nearby, no one else around, what's not to like? Some people...

entertained and in several kilometres of granite there must be more than enough for a fortnight's bouldering.

you can't say that, i think porth ysgo's good. i just don't think that angel bay is a good venue for climbing at all Quote R u tryin 2 call my mum a dog?

only if you walk her

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: granticusacadimusanplierz on January 16, 2006, 11:13:05 pm :shock: Hartland Quay tis a very nice spot although high tide is no good you can still get an epic session in. Worth a session north of the hotel/pub and then lunch/pint after. Also beach at low tide is fine for the wee ones to swim and make sand castles as long as the swell is not too big. Nice surf spot south of here 'Speke's Mill', as well as the quay itself, around low tide only though at both spots. Of course Godrevy is really very good, Clodgy, Northcott (if you know your way around) and there are lots of other luvely spots in this corner of the world to be found (not in North Devon though!)

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Jim on January 17, 2006, 05:23:00 am mark, if you need any more info about britany, give us a yell. I've been twice. The lie down start to the ufo boulder is definatley the classic of the coast to tick :wink:

Title: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: mark on January 17, 2006, 09:54:06 am Quote from: "Jim" mark, if you need any more info about britany, give us a yell. I've been twice. The lie down start to the ufo boulder is definatley the classic of the coast to tick :wink:

That's as good as it gets, eh? I think I've made a terrible mistake! Please, drop all the knowledge you have. One question in particular: where is the Parabola boulder? Want to make sure I do the gorgeouslooking 7a to its right that I posted a picture of earlier in the thread. This one: (http://www.apeindex.com/images/ploumanach.jpg) We're staying in Tregastel. on the west of the Ploumanac'h area. Anyone else got info on the area, please unleash the knowledge.

Title: Re: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: mark on August 17, 2006, 08:50:36 pm Zombie thread rises from the grave... (http://www.apeindex.com/images/ploumanach.jpg) I've left it a bit late but I'm off to Brittany tomorrow. Still haven't found out where the boulder pictured above is. If anyone can post directions I'd be grateful. Tried to Call cjd this evening but couldn't get through. If either he or Pantontinopoulos or anyone else who has been reads this, please share the knowledge. Also, anyone know which issue of OTE has cjd's article?

Title: Re: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Paul B on August 17, 2006, 09:04:37 pm never mind should read threads a bit more thoroughly, wonder if this is any help? (http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/images/image2006.jpg) from http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/bouldering_in_brittany.htm

Title: Re: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: mark on August 17, 2006, 10:00:43 pm Thanks, Paul, that article answers both my questions.

Title: Re: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Pantontino on August 17, 2006, 11:03:44 pm Mark, looks like you got the info (that 8a on the same block as the 7a thing looks very cool shame there's not more of it). I found some other minor spots (some sea caves), but nothing to write home about.

Thanks, Paul, that article answers both my questions.

Title: Re: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Houdini on August 18, 2006, 06:27:18 am You can find interesting isolated spots and boulders all over Brittany. But I'm not in awe of the bouldering here, even Ploumanach. Incredibly rocky place but I don't think the shapes and the rock here lend itself massively to bouldering. You can climb stuff alright. A great place to walk and maybe try an isolated 8a or whatever plus ubiquitous and ungradeably easy stuff (naff on the whole) pretty much everywhere. Holds are in short supply. Typical scenario, if you go expect this: Fuck me what a beautiful arete! (On close inspection Great, yet another 8B+/8C to come back too when I'm stronger... You might do this 10 times a day. Perhaps you will also dream of yarding 2m between pebbles and other fantasy extreme moves... Wait! You say Fred rates it, here? Shit! Fred's like what? 9 feet tall. Spaced holds you say? Really?! Good Menhirs. EDIT I reckon I've sussed why CJD raves about the place and the half dozen other people I've heard dismiss it politely: If you're the kinda guy that likes to stay in one spot and work a hard problem over the course of two days (CJD's a projecter ) and maybe has a family with them and might not want to move around so much (CJD's a double daddy) then Ploumanch will impress you. If you just wanna run around and get some in over a day (say 20 to 30 problems, like you would in any respectable area known for it's bouldering) it may disappoint. Fabulous crepe though.

Title: Re: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: mark on September 04, 2006, 03:16:22 pm Got back on Sunday after a great holiday but not a great climbing trip. Did a few good problems, including the one right of Parabola that I'd seen a picture of... (http://www.apeindex.com/images/Phare4.jpg) Huge amounts of rock along the coast but much of it is blank or a bit crumbly. Given that it was mainly a family holiday I didn't have loads of time to scour the rock for problems but spent a few enjoyable hours scrambing around, climbing good looking features. Spent most of my time playing on the beach, snorkelling (which I'd never done before and is brilliant), riding bikes and eating local Breton cakes. Great family holiday but wouldn't recommend it for a climbing trip. Thanks for all the info given above. <Chinstroking> Now, where for next year's beach+rock holiday? </Chinstroking>

Title: Re: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: SA Chris on September 04, 2006, 04:14:07 pm How do you link to google earth? bearing in mind I am a computer dullard.

Title: Re: Beach + bouldering? Where? Post by: Houdini on September 08, 2006, 08:12:19 am One of the twin islands of Koh Nang Yuan on the left and Tao (Thai E. Coast) on the right joined by the worlds' only 3 way connecting beach. Found some good stuff here. (http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e67/houdini2/KohNangYuan5.jpg)