Nomad africa magazine issue 7_October2016

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Welcome TO AFRICA!

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concept was born from a passionate desire to dispel the negative perceptions, which the world has held of the African continent, and to replace it with a positive focus. That concept took form in the creation of the Nomad Africa magazine in 2012. Nomad Africa is an elegant, luxury, Pan-Africanist magazine, targeting the tourism, travel, social, political, cultural and business fields prevailing in Africa, operating out of Johannesburg, South Africa. Nomad Africa celebrates life on the African continent and promotes its vibrant pulse through our Pan-Africanist ideology, to encourage the solidarity of Africans worldwide. It aims to foster a strong interest in the continent's cultural heritage, unique tourist attractions and countless business development and investment opportunities, with the millions of people living in, investigating or visiting Africa. Nomad Africa inspires and breeds a conscious, knowledgeable generation of visionaries among our own, and influences positive perceptions and appreciation for the true worth of Africa worldwide. Nomad Africa in print is circulated across the African continent with subscription and distribution absolutely free. Made available in VIP lounges of major international airports, some airlines, four and five star hotels, spas and casinos, as well as luxury cruise liners sailing around our coasts. These copies are free souvenirs, displayed and available to guests to remove and keep, adding further value to the venues’ services. Placements: Johannesburg, Cape Town, Durban,

Mauritius and several Northern African destinations. New distribution points will be several locations in Namibia, Nairobi in Kenya and Accra in Ghana. Numerous international distribution venues are being negotiated, including Europe, the United States of America, United Kingdom, United Emirates and China. The print magazine is in tandem with: Nomad Africa e-zine which is published digitally and circulated worldwide in a mobile friendly format, which can be downloaded, free-of-charge from our website. The Nomad Africa bi-monthly newsletter is sent to 65,000 subscribers internationally, with the number constantly growing. NomadTV is the online digital television division of the Nomad Africa project. It regularly features interviews with representatives of government and tourism boards across the continent of Africa to showcase their unique offerings and destinations. In addition, regular videos of newsworthy incidences, discoveries and many other noteworthy occasions in Africa are taped. NomadTV is popularly employed to create advertorials for our distribution partners and advertisers. All our productions are showcased on our website and the NomadTV Youtube channel. The Nomad Africa project has created a unique advertising platform for clients wishing to promote business, investments and awareness of their services and products in Africa. For more details, how you can partner with us, or invest in this unparalleled project, please e-mail us at: thepublisher@nomadafricamag.com or call +27 11 052 4597 and we will gladly arrange for a presentation.

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Travel Info | Namibia

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NAMIBIA Planning a trip to Namibia? Wondering where to go, when and how to get there and all the things to do? Travelling through Namibia by car is one of the best ways to explore the extremely vast and beautiful country. This, plus the freedom you have to stop and go as you please, makes self-driving in Namibia extremely rewarding. Words: KRISTIE OMAR

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ere you’ll find some important tips to make the most of your road trip in Namibia and discover the natural wonders of the country.

THINGS YOU SHOULD HAVE IN YOUR CAR: A camera: This is something that is invaluable on your trip through Namibia. From wild animals to stirring landscapes and interesting people, there are photo opportunities galore and documenting your road trip is a great way to make the memories of your adventure last even longer. Water: Always bring loads of bottled water in the car with you. Namibia can

be very hot and you may drive for an hour without seeing any settlement, so always make sure you’re hydrated. Snacks: As always when driving, make sure you have a little bit of food to nibble on to keep up your spirits and sugar levels. If you don’t eat properly your alertness could suffer and that’s not ideal. Sunglasses and sunscreen: Protect yourself from the sun while driving. Many people forget that they can get sun burnt whilst in a car. Wearing a good pair of sunglasses will not only protect your eyes, but also reduce the sun’s glare, which will help you be able to spot animals and other things in the distance. Fill up on petrol when you have the chance: There are many fueling stations dotted along the national roads, but you must always make sure that you have

enough petrol or diesel in your car to get from one station to the next. Namibia is a sparsely populated country and getting stuck with no fuel is not an ideal situation. Some maps will tell you where the filling stations are, but don’t simply trust any old map you find online as it could be out of date. **Note! Many filling stations do not accept card payments for fuel, so always have enough cash to pay for your fuel. It should also be noted that not every filling station has an ATM, so be sure to have enough cash on you before you start your self-drive adventure.** KNOW THE MAJOR NATIONAL ROADS The national roads of Namibia are all labelled with the letter ‘B’ and you can use them to get to most major destinations

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CLOTHES - WHAT TO PACK: A mix of very light clothes for the hot days and warm jackets for the coastal area and the desert nights between June and August. A binocular is not a clothing item, but do not forget to bring one along. MONEY: The money is the Namibian Dollar made of 100 cents. It is linked to the African rand that you can also use in Namibia. Visa and MasterCard are generally accepted. FOOD & BEVERAGES: A lot of the food in Namibia revolves around the meat: ostrich, kudu, antelopes, oryx. It is time for you to discover new tastes. WEATHER: Namibia is a large country with coastal area and desert area. So you can have a wide range of weather and temperatures. In October, it was very hot inland and quite cool (even chilly) on the coast. If you travel in June to August, be prepared as it can get really cold at night in the desert. GETTING IN THE COUNTRY Passport: Valid at least 6 months VISA: Namibia has Visa waver for tourism stays of less than 30 days. Vaccine: It depends on your approach to vaccination. However, Malaria is at medium risk in the north of the country and you might consider taking tablets. Flights: Most international flights land in Windhoek and most go through Johannesburg first. TRANSPORTATION OPTIONS Self-drive: With a long straight road easy to navigate (but sometimes bumpy to drive), a lot of people choose the option to go on a road trip by themselves. Public Transportation: Quite limited. One option is shared taxi.

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in the country. ONLY TAKE SECONDARY ROADS IF YOUR CAR CAN HANDLE IT The secondary roads are identified by either their ‘D’ or ‘C’ prefixes and these roads are mostly un-tarred, graded dirt roads. These roads are more often than not easy to drive on, but do bear in mind that you will need a car that can handle a little bit of sand and dust when using some of them. When you begin exploring the country’s secondary road network in earnest, you will find loads of little gems hidden along the way. Quiet rest camps, conservation centres, traditional communities and even the largest meteorite in the world! LOOK OUT FOR ANIMALS! No matter what road you’re driving on, highways or side roads, you need to be on the lookout for animals. Not only because they are amazing to spot and observe, but because they can run into the road rather unexpectedly. Warthogs can be particularly dangerous as they are relatively difficult to spot from a distance, and will cause some serious damage to your vehicle if hit at high speed. Kudus (and other antelope) have also been known to panic and run in front of cars, so be aware, especially if you see road signs warning of the likeliness of one of these animals. The animals are most active during dusk and dawn, so if the sun’s going down, or if the sun’s coming up, then sharpen your wits and keep a close eye on the verge of the road. MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS READY FOR ADVENTURE Whether you are driving your own vehicle or have chosen to rent one, you will need to pick the appropriate type of car for your journey. If you are planning to stay on the national roads and not go gallivanting into the untamed wilderness of Namibia, then any reliable mass-produced four door sedan should do you just fine. Do bear in mind though that a car with a very low ground clearance may run into trouble, so it’s probably best to leave the sports-sedan at home.

KICK IT OLD SCHOOL – BRING YOUR MAP ALONG GPS is a wonderful invention and it has made navigating around unexplored parts of the world a cinch for travel, and it is highly recommended that you invest in such a device if you plan on driving yourself around the countryside. However, it is still VERY important that you bring a physical map with you. Electrical equipment can fail, so you need to have a backup plan. A map is solid and dependable and it never has to reacquire its satellites. PREPARE TO TAKE A FEW DIRT ROADS Many of the roads in Namibia are not tarred and as such, you will find yourself driving on either dirt or gravelled roads at some point. But do not fear. Most of these roads are well graded and easy enough to drive on. A FEW MORE NUGGETS... It’s a good idea to leave your headlights on through the day and night. Headlights, even in daylight, make your car easier to see for oncoming vehicles. Drive carefully and cautiously, as always. Be especially careful when leaving or entering villages and towns. There are often people and cattle crossing the road. Make sure you have a roadside emergency kit in your car. If you have rented a vehicle make sure with the agency that there is a kit in your vehicle. You should always travel with a basic first-aid kit. Do not speed! The penalties for exceeding the local speed limits are extremely severe, and law enforcement is widespread. Cellphone reception is not consistent all over the country, so have a look at your service provider’s coverage map to see if where you’re going will have service. Always ensure you have more than enough fuel to get to your destination or the next filling station. Drive on the left, even on deserted dirt roads. If you pass through any farm gates you have to open, be sure to close them behind you. If you don’t then livestock will escape and you will be costing a farmer a lot of damage.

ABOUT NAMIBIA Namibia is a land of endless blue skies, vast horizons and crisp mornings: pure joy for photography enthusiasts. It is also safe, clean and organised with an excellent infrastructure, making it a favourite destination for family vacations. Officially called the Republic of Namibia, the country, located in the south of Africa is one of the least densely populated countries in the world. It has a democracy that gained independence from South Africa in 1990 and established its capital city in Windhoek. The German legacy from the colonial times is evident in some street and town names as well as in the food and architecture. Namibia is fascinating as it possesses some of the most stunning landscapes and natural wonders in Africa, like huge sand dunes in Sossusvlei, the second largest canyon in the world, Fish River, strange trees and giant piles of rock at the Giant’s Playground and Quiver trees forest and above all, Namibia has abundant wildlife, especially in Etosha the National Park.

Language Namibia, despite its scant population, is home to a wide diversity of languages, from multiple language families: IndoEuropean, Bantu, and the various Khoisan families. During apartheid, Afrikaans, German and English held the position of official language; however, after independence from South Africa, Namibia's new government made English the sole official language in the constitution of Namibia. The most widely spoken languages used in households are Oshiwambo dialects, by 48% of the population; the Khoekhoe language by 11%; Afrikaans by 11; Kwangali language by 10%; and Herero by 10%. Other native languages include the Bantu languages Tswana, Gciriku, Fwe, Kuhane, Mbukushu, Yeyi and the Khoisan Naro. English, the official language, is spoken by less than 1% of people as their native language. Portuguese is spoken by 4–5% of the total population, i.e. 100,000 people, made up mostly of the Angolan community.

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TOP TEN

TRAVEL SECRETS YOU NEED TO KNOW

From booking flights to fine dining: find out how to save cash on holiday. Why pay more than you need to on travel? Cut costs and travel cheaper with these top ten travel secrets for slashing the price of your holiday. Words: KRISTIE OMAR

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travel experience.

orget travel tips‌ they will only get you so far. For the best help with your upcoming travel plans, these 10 best travel secrets will ensure you get a better

Travel at the cheapest times The price of flights varies considerably depending on the month, day and even time of travel. Several flight-booking

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websites let you compare flight prices across a whole month, meaning you'll be able to see the cheapest days to fly, saving you a potential packet. Avoiding the weekends can make a huge impact on the price of flights. Why not compare travel from a Wednesday to Wednesday rather than a Friday to Friday? Flying on a Saturday and returning on a Tuesday will be a better option then going for the traditional Friday/Sunday or Monday combination. Return airfares are still cheaper in the States, but almost everywhere you can now get fares at

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very low prices for one way. Do your research! Beat the baggage fees If you're worried about excess baggage charges, why not wear your extra items instead of cramming them into your case? There are some fantastic products on the market that let you take additional belongings on your person ensuring they won't count as excess baggage. A luggage jacket combined with a good hand-luggage bag will get you the absolute maximum amount of luggage on


Top 10 | Travel Secrets

a plane, without having to pay any check-in costs. Fly indirect If money is more important than time, then consider a flight with a stop-over. Go for indirect routes as they are often a far cheaper option. BYO food on board Nowadays, many airlines charge for food on board. So save yourself a small fortune by taking along your own snacks instead of buying them on the plane or in the airport. Get the best seat on board There are a few serious tricks of the trade to be told here. First of all, seatguru.com is a good place to start. Here you will be able to enter the aircraft you are flying on and find out immediately where the best seats are in economy class – those with extra legroom, those that don’t recline, those to avoid, etc. Another handy tip (once you know the seat you want) is to take a risk and not pay extra for the extra legroom, but instead request those seats on check-in – as this is when those seats will be released without an additional charge. Just ask nicely and you shouldn’t have any troubles! Know where to find free Wi-Fi practically anywhere Gone are the days where one must buy a coffee at Starbucks or a burger at Mc-

Donalds to get a little free wi-fi, but if you do go down this route, you can actually walk in and use the wi-fi without making a purchase if you just look like you are waiting for someone. Regardless, free wi-fi is now in many more places for travellers. When you arrive at the airport you will almost always find free wi-fi – but it usually comes in the form of a free 30 minutes or 60 minutes connection. But don’t be fooled by the initial fees when you try to connect – scroll down the page and you will find the ‘connect for free’ timed option. Frequent fliers – you NEED them For a long time, I avoided joining frequent flier programmes out of sheer laziness – but as it turns out, it is incredibly worthwhile. This is the most sure-fire way of getting free upgrades as you accumulate points. But it’s not only flights that will reward you and increase your chances for an upgrade. Many programmes also reward you for hotel bookings, car hire, and a range of other services. It’s all a little too time-consuming for my liking, but if you do just one thing, sign up and try stay loyal to one or two airlines when you travel. Save on accommodation If you want to go on holiday, but are sick of the usual hotel chains and expensive, soulless rooms, then why not consider a home swap? It will cost you virtually nothing, as the name 'swap' suggests,

and you get to visit a new country whilst enjoying all the comforts of home. You can also try a private room instead of a hotel. Over the last few years, there’s been an explosion in websites that allow locals to rent out their sofas, spare rooms, whole apartments and even gardens! The experience can be far more rewarding than a stay in a chain hotel, as well as being cheaper. Eat like a local Not only is tasting new cuisines part of the joy of travelling but you're likely to eat far better as well as saving money, when you eat like a local. Local food produce is usuallylocally sourced rather than imported and a lot tastier. If they've had to ship a tin of baked beans 4,000 miles, it's not going to come cheap! Another top tip is stocking up from the hotel buffet breakfast and shopping in local supermarkets for lunch. Save on foreign currency exchange Withdrawing money abroad can cost a lot in charges. Although using a debit card can be cheaper than a credit card, be aware that most banks will charge for each cash withdrawal on top of a commission fee. Best practice is to take out larger sums so you're charged less frequently, only take care and don't keep all your money in the same place. Getting your currency before you arrive at the airport is also a way of securing the best rate you can and works out a lot cheaper.

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Visa Tips | Visa To Kenya

HOW TO APPLY FOR A

VISA TO KENYA

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Kenya is one of the most beautiful and popular African countries, so it’s no surprise why a lot of people want to visit this destination. It has a variety of wonderful attractions, great beaches and contrasting landscapes, coupled with a brilliant diversity of wildlife and a vibrant culture to go with it, too.

ou will be charmed by the dynamism of the urban city life and be intrigued by the traditional locals in the remote villages. Kenya has something to offer everyone and I truly believe that it is the apple of East Africa’s eye. Acquiring a visa for entry in Kenya couldn't be simpler, with the country recently instituting online applications to make the process easier. Kenya is no longer allowing visas on arrival, so be sure to apply in advance to avoid an unpleasant airport experience! Who Needs a Visa? With the exception of these countries, Bahamas, Malawi, Sierra Leone, Barbados, Malaysia, Malta,Singapore, Botswana, Burundi, Maldives Solomon Islands, Brunei, Darussalam, Mauritius, Swaziland, Cyprus, Mozambique,Tanzania, Fiji Islands,

Words: KRISTIE OMAR

Namibia, Tonga, The Gambia, Nauru, Trinidad & Tobago, Ghana, Papua, New Guinea,Tuvalu, Grenada, Rwanda, St.Lucia, Uganda, Jamaica, St.Vincent & Grenadines, Vanuatu, BKiribati, Samoa, Zambia, Lesotho, Seychelles, Zimbabwe, all countries require a visa to enter Kenya. Types of Visas Single entry: This visa type allows you to enter Kenya just once. Single entry visas are valid for up to 90 days and generally take around 2 days to process. Currently, it costs $102 to apply for one. Transit: Allows you to stay in the country for a short stopover and lasts up to 3 days. This is good for if you have long lay-over flights. A transit visa is only needed if you are stopping over in Kenya for more than 24 hours. The fee for this is $20. Multiple entries: This visa type lets you enter the country multiple times. The fee for this is $100. Visa Requirements A passport that is valid for at least six

months, travel itinerary such as copy of round trip tickets, coloured passport photographs, copy of confirmed hotel reservations and eVisa print out from https://www.ecitizen.go.ke/ How to Apply Online When applying for a Kenyan visa online, you first need to register an account at eCitizen. From here, you can access a number of government services. To apply, follow the steps as below: - Click on the ‘eVisa’ on https://www.ecitizen.go.ke/ - Create an account; - Select the visa type you want, then fill out the application form once you have read all the information carefully; - Pay using your bank card. It can be a visa, debit or Mastercard; - Wait for the approval email, then download and print your eVisa. You can do this from your eCitizen account; - Be ready to show your visa to the immigration officer upon arrival in Kenya.

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EXPERIENCE A HONEYMOON IN

GHANA Looking for a romantic honeymoon getaway or a wedding destination? Ghana is the best place for your unforgettable experience right upon arrival at the Kotoka International Airport and into the vibrant city of Accra, the capital of Ghana. Words: MONICA ASHLEY LE-COURE

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ccra has a lot of beautiful, classic and well managed five star hotels with a very good and friendly atmosphere. Hotels like the Holiday Inn situated just a few kilometres to the Airport, Golden Tulip hotel and Movenpick Ambassador Hotel to mention just but a few. Movenpick Ambassador Hotel has the largest number of executive suites and rooms in Ghana with quality staff, a buzzing night club and is situated right opposite the national theatre, Accra, Ghana. One of the most fascinating places to visit for couples on honeymoon are the Aburi Botanical Gardens. Located just a

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45 minute drive from the city of Accra, Aburi is one of the most beautiful, peaceful, and fascinating places in Ghana for romance. Opened in March 1890, the botanical gardens cover a total of 64.8 hectares and overlook the Accra coastal plain from an elevation of about 460 metres above sea level. Visiting the gardens is an educational, aesthetic and above all, a romantic experience. With beautiful palm-lined lanes and a wide variety of tradition, medicinal plants, including a sill cotton tree (ceiba pentrandra) that is the sole survivor of the original forest that once covered the Aburi hills. Although getting marriage is a positive event, it can be highly stressful. The main objective for newly-wed couples going on honeymoon is to de-stress and take

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time out to relax far away from home after a very hectic wedding ceremony. It is also an emotional, mental and psychologically bonding activity. With this in mind, visiting a spa for the tranquility to free your mind, body and spirit is highly recommended for couples on honeymoon. The Holy Trinity spa situated away from the busy city life of Accra in a very quiet environment called Sogakofe, a town in the Volta region of Ghana can be heaven on earth. The spa offers health and wellness with health-promoting, curative rehabilitation and orthodox, complementary,alternative health/medical services in a revitalizing, recharging, and rejuvenating ambience for the body, spirit. It is Africa’s second destination health spa with the Volta River next to it


Romantic Destinations | Honeymoon in Ghana

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Top: Kakum National Park, located in the coastal environs of the Central Region of Ghana, covers an area of 375 square kilometres. Established in 1931 as a reserve, it was gazetted as a national park only in 1992 after an initial survey of avifauna was conducted. The area is covered with tropical rainforest. Middle: The Cape Coast Castle is a must-visit for couples on honeymoon. This castle was the headquarters of the British merchants and the seat of government until 1877. It has now being declared as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Bottom: The Independence Square aka Black Star Square in Accra, Ghana. It is the second-largest city square in the world after Tiananmen Square in China.

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for cruising. The Mole National Park is the largest wildlife refuge in Ghana. It is located northwest of Ghana on grassland savanna and a riparian ecosystem at an elevation of 150m, with a sharp escarpment forming the southern boundary of the park, which makes it an interesting place to visit for a honeymoon in Ghana. The Mognori Eco Village translated as a river bank; Monori is a farming village relatively close to the south-easthern border of Mole National Park and is rich in the traditions of the Hanga clan. The current residents are descendants of a Moshi hunter who settled on the Murugu land before the slave raids of the 18th century. Couples on honeymoon can tour the village, meet families and learn the process of shea butter making, the daily activities of this community, etc. The International Stingless Bee Center (ISBC). The centre can be seen in Abrafo in Twifo Heman Lower Denkyira District in the Central Region. The initiative, undertaken by the Department of Entomology and Wildlife of the School of Biological Sciences of the University of Cape Coast, is to train local farmers to keep stingless bees, which are essential in pollination and crop production. The centre also seeks to develop honey-based medicines and educate the youth on the importance of stingless bees. The Cape Coast Castle is another must-visit for couples on honeymoon. This castle was the headquarters of the British merchants and the seat of government until 1877. It has now being declared a UNESCO World Heritage site and houses the West Africa Historical Museum where exhibitions range from that period to the mid-19th century. The dark underground dungeons where the slaves were held and the auction hall are

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places of great importance to most African-Americans because of the nostalgia they evoke. The Asafo Shrines are dotted along the coast of Ghana, where Fanti warriors prepare mentally and spiritually before going to war. Several of these colourful shrines, a combination of the symbolic and mythical, can be found in the streets across the bridge in Elmina and not far on foot from the castle. The Asafo companies are militia-like organisations that once had military duties, but are now largely ceremonial in nature and undertake community service. Each of the shrines is dedicated to one of the ASAF, expressing the company guiding philosophy or proverb and its superiority over rivals. The Busua Beach in the central region of Ghana is one of Ghana’s best beaches and offers the visitors a chance to relax, paddle around in the Atlantic and enjoy some lobster. There are several hotels along the beach front ranging from the luxurious to simple accommodation. The Busua Beach Resort is a modern, large hotel with dining facilities, pool and intimate Busua Inn is run by a French couple. The most visited beaches in Ghana are the Labadi beach, Coco beach and Bojo beach. The Arts Centre is a great place to shop for handicrafts but you must also be prepared for hard negotiations. Nzulezu is a mind-blowing place in Ghana situated in a village built on stilts in the marshy Amansuri Lagoon. Similar in looks and atmosphere to the Genvie in Benin, this is a unique little fishing community, far from the hustle and bustle of daily Ghanaian life. You can only reach it by renting a canoe, available from the village of Beyin (about two hours’ drive from Axim). It takes about an hour to reach the village. Simple ac-


The Busua Beach in the central region of Ghana is one of Ghana’s best beaches and offers the visitors a chance to relax, paddle around in the Atlantic and enjoy some lobster.

commodation is available in the stilt house. For a trip to Nzulezu, leave early to avoid the mid-day heat. Ada Foah or Ada is a coastal town in Ghana’s greater Accra region just off the Accra Aflao motorway. The town is located along the Volta region and has a very beautiful resort called Aqua Safari. Aqua Safari offers the best cruising boats and very interesting views. Ghana is a very peaceful country and endowed with abundant natural wealth. The country is wealthy in precious metals like gold, diamond, silver, bauxite to mention but a few. Ghana produces cash crops like cocoa, timber and the country is blessed with huge rivers and lakes. Ghana recently discovered black gold (crude-oil).

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Spa Trends | Workplace Wellness

WORKPLACE WELLNESS G R O W S

U P

We are moving into a “culture of wellness” and, at more advanced companies, a “culture of purpose”. And companies are beginning to see positive results. Creating a healthier work environment is far from a novel concept, its roots in Western corporate culture reaching back as far as non-smoking-workplace policies of the 1980s, and the early-1970s craze for executive gyms and mandated annual physical fitness tests for upper management employees. Words: KRISTIE OMAR

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ut workplace wellness is finally growing up, and it is beginning to look fresher, inviting and—from the point of view of all concerned— worthwhile. This is why workplace wellness is such an important

trend to watch. While the idea of yoga classes at the office, lunch-and-learn education classes, or subsidised gym memberships is becoming more commonplace, with it comes the recognition that these “cosmetic” attempts haven’t really moved the needle on workers’ wellness. In this new phase, we are moving into a “culture of wellness” and, at more advanced companies, a “culture of purpose. “ And efforts to create a culture of wellness and align workers with their purpose are beginning to show the results everyone is seeking: healthier and happier workers, lower healthcare costs, and higher productivity, less absenteeism and less turnover. As Dr. Ken Pelletier, a long time pioneer in workplace wellness, sums up this shift by saying, “We are moving from a goal of increased ROI (return on investment) to one of pursuing ROV (return on value).” This shift is having a major impact on everyone who is in the workforce as well as on those who work in the field of spa and wellness. And these developments are creating more options for workers and new opportunities for wellness practitioners and educators, as well as establishments that deliver wellness services. The Future Workplace wellness is growing up, but

companies that embrace these new philosophies and approaches towards workplace wellness still remain the pioneering exception rather than the rule. As of now, conceiving worker wellness as an integrated set of ideas is still a first-world phenomenon. However, there is a growing realisation that the profit-maximising business model cannot be lasting, useful or even morally acceptable as long as it doesn’t take into account the human aspect. The upcoming Millennial generation, as it prepares to take its place in the managerial tier, is not as content merely to accept these things as preceding generations have been, and their increased presence in the workforce will drive change and innovation. As more employers come to understand that the welfare of their companies is intricately tied in with the health of the workers they employ, we will see the steadily increased linkage of workplace policies and worker wellness. And there is no shortage of clear financial inducements. For example, one study presented at the Global Wellness Summit showed that companies nurturing a culture of health, by specifically focusing on the wellbeing and safety of their workers, have outperformed the stock market by a factor of 2.3:1 from 2000-2015. The companies that fail to offer wholesale, holistic solutions to wellness—by paying mere lip-service to notions of employee wellness, or providing superficial solutions that fail to address real worker needs and issues in real time—will find themselves losing valuable, motivated employees to those companies that do offer such advantages. We will gradually see the increased prevalence of the across-the-board approach to

worker wellness, beginning with preventative approaches to problems that need never arise if addressed early, thoroughly and intelligently enough (stress, diet, comfort, restfulness, work-life balance, etc.). Stale, self-destructive and outdated paradigms like the workaholic 70-hour week, the miserly allotment of vacation-time (is two weeks ever enough?), an inflexible approach to working hours, sick time, maternity leave (and paternity leave), user-hostile workspaces and coin-slot snack machines instead of healthy food options, will all soon enough be seen as counter-productive and self-defeating not only to employee wellness and welfare, but as an active threat to a company’s bottom line, and to its ability to attract and retain the best workers. Above all, in response to the needs of more healthconscious employees, forward-looking employers have begun to take more seriously the notion of work-life balance. People everywhere want a healthy work environment, including comfortable and ergonomic furniture in a non-hierarchical office layout. They want aspects of their home life, like healthy eating options and the chance for exercise and relaxation, available in the workplace as well. This has encouraged the gradual, holistically based interlacing of wellness maintenance inside and outside the worksite. And all of these developments will create new opportunities for wellness practitioners and educators, as companies seek to hire yoga and meditation instructors, nutrition and stress-reduction specialists, massage therapists and more. Workplace wellness is growing up and finally the people it was meant to affect— employees—will reap the benefits.

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SAFARI

Gallivant | My Lucky Safari

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L U C K Y

T A N Z A N I A

“Everyone out,” says Brent, our safari guide who resembles Jude Law’s character in The Talented Mr. Ripley – bronzed, confident, model good looks. He’s the sort of guy who probably not only battles life-threatening situations on a daily basis, but also welcomes them. We’ve just spotted a herd of elephant near the Lukula and Luwegu river crossing and are about to try and catch a closer glimpse on foot. Why? I have absolutely no idea. The air is dry and the sun is hot. I’m finding it difficult to pry my fingers away from the car door. Words: JILL PARIS

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rent slings his rifle and rests its barrel across his right shoulder as coolly as if he’d flung a cashmere jacket around him before stepping onto a yacht. He turns toward the five us who’ve been invited on this Tanzanian safari, but gazes directly into my eyes. “If anyone thinks he or she might run, please remain at the car. You’ll put the rest of us in serious danger.” Is he talking to me? I resent that. Do I look like the running type? I’ve anticipated this moment for the past six months. After reading aloud a travel story in a New York bookstore, I was approached by a tall, ruggedly hot Englishman (surprisingly able to pull off a beaded necklace) who was a Tanzanian safari guide and had the thickest eyelashes I have ever seen. He bewitched me with one line: “You should come and write about it.” It took about six seconds to agree and having been to Kenya and Tanzania years earlier, I’d actually loved the experience. The film Out of Africa inspired me to take a threeweek safari of my own. Perhaps as we spoke I envisioned that scene where Robert Redford washes Meryl Streep’s hair alongside a river while reciting poetry. I don’t think I’d ever met anyone quite like this guy. He possessed such an enviable passion. I was intrigued. What made a man like this want to live in the bush and, more importantly, what kind of shampoo should I bring? As a writer, I predicted this would be my in depth transformation-revelation piece. I would be just like Karen Blixen, only without the syphilis. And, this guy, with his Simon Baker hair and British accent, would be my Denys Finch-Hatton. I confess, when I viewed his website the next morning I may have let the alluring tent décor overshadow the “walking” aspect. And, what’s worse, he’s not even here! Of all the luck! So do I feel like running right now? Hell yes! This excursion hugely differed from my previous African trek where I’d been safely protected behind the closed window of a van and slept in hotels with walls. Now, not 30 |

only would I not get the story I’d come for, I was about to set out across one of the most remote places on Earth (next to Siberia) and attempt to outsmart wild animals accompanied by a twenty-six year old who could already smell my fear, and an African warrior guide named Kumbi whose spears looked like he’d made them in woodshop. “This is exactly like hunting without pulling the trigger,” Brent whispers. As the seven of us creep single file toward a cluster of trees, it feels as though I’m treading in quick sand. My throat has completely closed and it’s drier than that dead bush over there next to what appears to be the skull of some unfortunate beast. Looking down I notice heaps of animal dung littering the desert floor as far as the eye can see. Some crap resembles tiny black gumballs, some clumps have reddish berries mixed in like a fruit salad, some loads are larger than I care to imagine from whence it came. “Hyena,” Brent says, breaking up a whitishhairy pile of poo with his bare hand. He scans the ground for animal tracks and determines who has lurked there recently. He’s very knowledgeable at least. It’s nice to know he’ll be able to tell by the angle of this leopard’s paw print, which way the wind was blowing before it killed me. I’ve fallen behind the others somewhat. Kumbi waves his hand for me to hurry along, but for some reason the will to back up rather than forge ahead takes over. I’m at least two hundred yards away from Brent and have stopped watching his hand signals and realise I never learned what they meant in the first place. I’ve been in a state of shock since I arrived to find the person who’d invited me had been replaced by Dickie Greenleaf. I look behind me and surmise a sprint to the Land Cruiser factored against the dodging of crap mounds in this enormous litter box would take longer than my breath would allow. Glancing forward, it occurs to me that Kumbi is wearing a loud red and blue checked wrap cloth and not the suggested khaki colours one should sport on safari. Months ago I’d been told not even to wear white as the animals can spot that colour easily. But just look at him! He’s

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a walking matador cape! Suddenly, we’re bordering the edge of a wooded area. My eyes are darting around so rapidly I probably look like I’m having a seizure. And I was worried I’d contract malaria? I wish I had malaria right now and was lying in a hospital bed somewhere. I’ve almost gored myself twice on Kumbi’s javelins. I’m about a half a second away from straddling his tiny frame like a human backpack, but then, Brent speaks out in a regular voice and approaches. “We must have scared them off,” he says disappointedly. I’m relieved beyond measure and am secretly proud I didn’t pee my pants. “Aw, bummer,” I scoff. Let’s face it, I’m still sulking. Our group heads back to the car and we begin searching for whatever else we can stumble upon. We see more elephant and graceful impala sprinting up an embankment. Eagles soar above our heads and the occasional wart hog whirls around and darts the other way its erect, wiry tail looks as though it’s giving me the finger. Dozens of low flying white butterflies swarm around the jeep as we slowly press onward. “Whoops, lost the road again,” Brent says nonchalantly steering the cruiser back toward the left, trampling over high scrub brush in search of the barely detectable path. He’s in his element I tell myself. Surely he knows where he is. Just because it seems like we’re about to drive into the abyss doesn’t mean we’re lost. As we motor along in the pitch of night, rocking back and forth inside the open vehicle, I reflect back on the days prior where it had taken me over thirty hours to reach Dar es Salaam from Los Angeles. Then, the smaller aircraft that flew an hour and fortyfive minutes before touching down upon the Lukula airstrip that was actually more of a dirt road than a runway. How I’d prepared all my questions for Absent Safari Guy and now felt empty inside. The expectations I’d built up in my mind for half a year now were gone. Gone like the sunlight covering this African vastness, which now felt even bigger in the dark. I tilt my head back as we bounce along marveling at the night sky smattered with a million constellations. The sweet scent of jasmine complements the starry canvas.


Months ago I’d been told not even to wear white as the animals can spot that color easily. But just look at him! He’s a walking matador cape!

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“Hyena,” Brent says breaking up a whitish-hairy pile of poo with his bare hand. He scans the ground for animal tracks and determines who has lurked there recently.

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“There’s the Milky Way,” Rob, a photographer, points out. For the first time all day I feel something shift in me. Maybe this place wasn’t so bad after all. Maybe my inner bush woman just needed some time to come out. Tomorrow, I tell myself, I will be brave like them. I will not run. Just then the headlights shine into the branches of a tall tree. Two close-set, glowing eyes reflect out from the blackness. “Bush baby,” Brent says. Earlier that day when I’d been given a tour of my sleeping quarters, Brent said not to worry if in the middle of the night I heard the clatter of toiletries being knocked over outside. “There’s a bush baby that seems to favour your tent,” he’d remarked. “Lucky me,” I’d replied sarcastically. Now all I can think about are those beady little eyes peering through the mesh flaps behind my bed when we get back. That lime green shampoo bottle I’d left near the

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pull-shower is definitely going down. After Hours Night falls with a cacophony of surprises in the Lukula Selous. After dinner by the riverside, guides escorted us to our beds, carrying blue-lit lanterns. For the next few days I would reside alone in Number Four, which was the very last tent in a row covering what seemed to be a half-mile area along the river. For some reason I decide to sleep in a dress. I figure if I have to run screaming from here I’d like to be fully clothed when I do. Summon the somewhat low buzz of the cicada. Now amp that up about ten thousand times, throw in crickets, bull frogs, freaky birds that sound like infants being tortured, the snapping of twigs, crackling leaves, and a kind of muffled sigh that I figure has to be either a lion exhaling or the Devil snickering. I stay awake with eyes so wide, blinking once every two minutes,


heart thumping to the beats of the forest. I realise when I awake and stick my wristwatch up to the flickering candle behind a glass case, it’s 2:30 a.m. Only three hours have passed since I climbed into bed and managed to sleep through this concert of night lurkers. And, thanks to the four glasses of red wine I’d chugged at dinner to distract my attention from the bat that was circling the dining tent’s light, nature is also calling inside of me, which means now I must unzip the flap and go outside to the enclosed bathroom area. It’s basically an open-air toilet surrounded by a six-foot bamboo wall, no ceiling, just immense trees that appear like a cathedral’s roof hundreds of feet in the air. I sit down upon my al fresco throne and look up. I glimpse Orion’s Belt for the first time in my life peeking through the branches high above me. Then somewhere mid-stream – a noise so terrifying, so evil, that I wonder if a person can actually faint while urinating. A deep, long, ear-piercing bellow followed by three short laughing grunts rattles me

to the bone. I clasp my hands in prayer position and cry, “Please don’t kill me! Please don’t kill me!” What I don’t know is that it’s a hippopotamus roar coming from a mile away. (I will later discover at breakfast that sound ricochets off the river at night and makes things sound much closer than they actually are, but nobody prepared me for this charming slight of ear trick.) I stare out at the two cutout peepholes in the straw wall in front of me, which suddenly remind me of circus hoops that lions and tigers are trained to leap through on command. Any minute a snow-white leopard is going to shoot through one of these windows and carry me off in her teeth. I scurry back to bed where I will lie awake for the next three hours until dawn. My only solace is the patter of falling dried leaves rustled loose by wind resembling the sound of rain as they hit the tarp covering my tent. Is that Brent’s voice on a walkie-talkie I hear? Noooooo, it can’t be. I’m losing it. Soon I’m dressing in the dark for the morning drive. I’ve somehow lost my MAC eye

pencil and for once, don’t care. During cooked-to-order omelets by our attentive staff, I mention to Brent that I thought I heard him talking in the middle of the night on a radio. “Oh yeah, the guides woke me up around 3:00 a.m. A hippo wandered into camp,” he says, taking a bite of sausage. “He’s all bloody…probably been beat up in a fight.” Had this thing been as close as he’d sounded last night, or was he just an echo from afar? I don’t even want to think about it. Game Time “We’re going to try and sneak up on those Cape buffalo,” Brent says winding down a path leading to the unspoiled African playground. The incredible thing about the Selous is the remoteness. They’re not kidding when they say: 300,000 acres and only YOU. Watching the sunrise through the Baobab trees has given me a newfound sense of bravery. So what if I’ve only slept three hours. The crisp morning air feels like a big smack in the face. Bring on the

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game. The cruiser stops which means one thing: Everyone out. After a few minutes of searching for the illusive herd, I’m positive Brent’s startled to find me at the front of the pack when he does a double take. I don’t need that British guy. I am so kicking ass at this. When I was a little girl, my younger brother and I would try to scare our cat, Big Kitty, who’d be curled up asleep on a living room chair. If we reached her before she opened her eyes, we’d poke her in the ribs, which would then send her skyward as if she’d been jolted with jumper cables. There’s nothing funnier than an airborne feline when you’re ten years old. I have to say there was a sense of achievement if we pulled it off. This was sort of like that, only on a much more insane scale. I’m doing the breaststroke through sevenfoot tall grass. We’re swimming through a sea of wisp and I am strangely not afraid. I’m conscious of my every step. I’ve pushed my designer sunglasses atop my head and am thankful I wore long pants today. I am a hunter. I’m exhilarated beyond compare. I feel drunk with sleep deprivation, but I’m seriously having fun. After about an hour we come upon one of the rivers and see the dark grouping of buffalo downstream. We remove our shoes and cross the shallow water to the other side. I put my hiking boots back on and take my place in line only now, I’ve moved a few spots, or rather, all the way back and follow last – again. There’s something about the dense thicket that frightens me. It’s serving as a giant curtain that, if raised, I may keel over when I see what’s behind it. “Everyone down!” Brent orders. I’m stunned to see him plop down on the ground. He and the others are scooting along in the sand on their butts! This can’t be good?! I’m not getting down. No way. Besides, 34 |

there’s an elephant turd the size of a coconut in front of me. Talk about the ultimate skid mark. Kumbi motions with his hand for me to sit down. I refuse, but crouch as low as I’m humanly able. Suddenly the thundering sound of a stampede erupts. The land rumbles like an 8.2 earthquake might sound. Graham sachets toward me while Herbie bolts behind a large tree. I see dust rising up. I then assume a track athlete’s starting position. Yet, I can hear Brent’s spiel from yesterday taunting me. I will not run. Instead, I spring to my feet, then look right. There’s a twig-like tree trunk one foot away from me. Its diameter is that of a stop sign pole, which I grab onto with both hands. I’m clutching on for dear life with my eyes closed. Stephanie, a travel agent from Cape Town and the only other female, starts laughing. I probably look like a tightrope walker who’s suddenly lost her nerve. I’m sure Kumbi will howl with laughter back at his village talking about the idiot blonde woman who camouflaged herself behind a stick. I can see him now. He’ll grip one of his spears for a hilarious imitation. Brent rushes over with concern. He really is quite something, this brave young man. Breathless, I proclaim heroically, “I didn’t run.” He’s grinning and nodding with what hopefully signifies admiration for what would prove to be one of the most courageous feats of my life, or the stupidest. “You never ignore vultures,” Brent says pointing up to the sky. I learn that these enormous black birds follow the best animal hunters in hopes of swooping in after a kill. I’m told where they fly overhead, there may be wild dogs. They’re quite rare apparently and almost extinct in these parts. We’ve paralleled the Chi River for about twenty minutes and then spot four brown and black dappled wild dogs lazing upstream. They stand mo-

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tionless for a couple of minutes, and then dash into the outlying brush. “Let’s see if we can get a peek at them,” says Brent, rifle in hand. I’m the first one out of the car and have already begun unlacing my boots. We wade on top of the riverbed in bare feet. The water is cool and clear. I am overcome with a strange sense of smell. I swear the scent of their fur is still present. I almost feel like a wild dog myself. I’m in bewildered awe to think I’m now covering their tracks with my footprints, standing where they just had lain, yet still look up to make sure the vultures are not hovering over our heads. Neon green sprigs of clover and small fishes swimming with every stride – footsteps splashing through water the only sound, visually strike me. Clarity comes softly, quietly. I feel so humbled, ashamed; suddenly beholden to the man who wasn’t there. What a privilege to have been asked here. For the first time, my heart sings a song I’ve never heard, but words come easily and I murmur, “Bless you, Anton. Bless you.” Maybe life is like a walking safari. If you venture out expecting lions and leopards all the time you’ll almost always never get them. Maybe the best things are the ones you never knew you wanted to see. The ones that, scary as they may seem, were just the things you needed to unleash reality. I’d selfishly written my story before even reaching Africa. I’d romanticised scenarios, fabricated settings, invented fantastical dialogue, and almost overlooked the lesson I’d been sent to learn – to live life on foot and not in my head, with fearlessness, presence, without expectation, and above all, with gratitude. I’d survived three days in the bush and lived to tell the tale, my tale, and not some ridiculous movie sequel. I’d been given a gift — an incredible gift. “You should come and write about it,” he once said. And, so I did. Lucky me.



MAURITIUS E X P E R I E N C E

U N P A R A L L E L E D

L U X U R Y

“Mauritius was made first, and then heaven, and that heaven was copied after Mauritius,” Mark Twain’s words still reflect the breathtaking scenery of pristine, immaculate, sandy beaches in turquoise lagoons embracing a land of green, lush sugar cane fields, unspoilt forests, lakes and scenic mountain ridges. Words : HANS KANHYE

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Gallivant | Luxury, So Mauritius

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auritius has not rested on its laurels of n a t u r a l beauty and warm climate. It has gone a long way from its initial sun, sea and sand proposition to offer excellence at its best: unparalleled luxury with a legendary sense of hospitality. Indeed, if Mauritius did not exist it should have been created! This is an ideal tourist destination the whole year round, as underscored by the latest campaign, Mauritius365. Although the sector caters for all the different categories of tourists, the focus is on high-end luxury, with many first class hotels offering the perfect, dream holiday of a lifetime. This excellence is exemplified by the Constance Le Prince Maurice Resort. It is situated on the North East coast, in sixty acres of luxuriant vegetation and a white sandy beach, surrounded by a clear and calm lagoon. The elegantly-designed suites are nestled on stilts and guests dine on a floating restaurant. The hallmark of this deluxe boutique hotel is its uncompromising tailor-made service to guests. A member of the very select club of “The Leading Hotels of the World”, it has bagged several international awards

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since its inception. This year’s accolades include: 16th leading luxury hotel of the World, 3rd most outstanding golf resort in the World, No. 1 luxury resort in the Indian Ocean, the Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence and Trip Advisor’s Certificate of Excellence. Port Louis, a tale of two cities There is more to Mauritius than just grand hotels. It has much to offer in terms of unique sites, culture, flora and fauna. Port Louis is an unavoidable stop on your journey. The modern capital has sprung from the historic city to give the visitor a unique feel of walking across ages. A hectic locality, the heart of government and business, Port Louis is also home to most of the vestiges that remind the visitor that Mauritus is a real melting pot. If coming from the North, the first landmark, a few metres away from the modern cruise ship terminal is the Aapravasi Ghat World Heritage Site. This is the Immigration Depot where close to a million indentured labourers from India were quarantined in the eighteenth century before being dispatched to sugar plantations across the world and within the island. Today, its interactive museum walks the visitor through this unique labour migration system that the British pompously called the “Great Experience”.

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There is more to Mauritius than just grand hotels. It has much to offer in terms of unique sites, culture, flora and fauna. Port Louis is an unavoidable stop on your journey. The modern capital has sprung from the historic city to give the visitor a unique feel of walking across ages.

A few yards away lies the General Post Office, an imposing building made of large stone blocks, in a traditional Victorian architecture, reminiscent of British rule. This was inaugurated in 1870, almost a century after the introduction of postal services in Mauritius, the first such services outside Britain in the colonial empire. It is still in use and now comprises a Postal museum. Next is the Caudan Waterfront, a unique concept of business and leisure. This peninsula was home to quays, warehouses, docks and even a powder magazine for the last three centuries before being converted into a modern mega-cultural venue in 1996. Today, there are close to 200 designer boutiques, shops, art galleries, cinemas, restaurants, hotels, banks and other businesses. The latest designer collections as well as local handicrafts are available here. There is also the Blue Penny Museum where collectors can admire one of the oldest and rarest stamps, statues and coins in the World. Right in front of the waterfront, bordered by centenary royal palms, sits the beautiful square – Place d’Armes. The centre of

political power is located here, with the National Legislative Assembly and the Government House. Mauritius obtained its independence from the UK in 1968 and has become a model of parliamentary democracy and good governance in this part of the World. It became a Republic in 1992, but chose to stay in the Commonwealth. Freedom of speech and rule of law are enshrined in the constitution. The press is free and unfettered, with three private radio stations and about twenty newspapers for a population of barely 1,2 million inhabitants. The vibrant Central Market is just on the left, enticing visitors with its mouth-watering smells of spices, vegetables and fruits. It displays an abundance of delicious tropical fruits like papayas, mangoes, litchis, pineapples, avocados, passion fruits, bananas, guavas and lemons, without forgetting the herbs that are supposed to cure all possible diseases, even imaginary ones! Take this opportunity to enjoy a local treat, a pair of dholl puree. This thin roti of Indian origin, stuffed with some curry and chutneys is the most typ-

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ical street food, in the island. It is customary to complement this with an icy aloud a- a famous local milkshake made with vanilla and other condiments. The market is always crowded, so tourists should beware of the occasional pick-pocket, although Mauritius remains one of the safest countries in the World. Everything being within walking distance, there is no excuse to miss the Natural History Museum, one of the oldest in the southern hemisphere. This is a replica of the Colombo Museum in Sri Lanka. It displays the unique flora and fauna of the island and has a gallery dedicated to the Dodo, the national emblem of Mauritius. Unfortunately, there is nothing as dead as the dodo, but here you can still admire the only dodo skeleton that has been assembled from the bones of a single dodo. Finish the city’s visit by walking to the Champ de Mars, the oldest racecourse in

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this part of the World, where horses have been running non-stop since 1812! This lies in the shadow of the Citadel, a fort built in the mid nineteenth century to no avail as Mauritius has remained a peaceful country to this date. On top of seeing the pounder guns, powder magazine and barracks, you will have a great opportunity to admire Port Louis from this great vantage point. Unique Flora and Fauna Mauritus is home to a unique collection of flora and fauna. The National Botanical Garden at Pamplemousses has an impressive array of indigenous and endemic tropical plants, enriched by introductions from other parts of the world, especially palms, orchids, ferns, herbs and spices. Take time to admire gigantic Amazonian water lilies and the majestic Talipot palms that produce the biggest inflorescence in the flowering kingdom as they flower only once in

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The South has some unique touristic sites. The seven-coloured earths at Chamarel is one of the only two places on Earth where you can admire soils of different colours at the same spot.

their lifetime and die after that! If you are visiting in May-October, you can see the orange-red flowers of Trochetia Boutoniana, the national flower of Mauritius. There are also centennial tortoises, deer and many birds. Several of the latter are endemic to Mauritius, like the pink pigeon, fody, echo parakeet, pic pic and cardinal. Scenic cultural spots The South has some unique touristic sites. The seven-coloured earths at Chamarel is one of the only two places on Earth where you can admire soils of different colours at the same spot. The more distinct shades are red, brown, grey and purple. This unique geological phenomenon, caused by the differential cooling of volcanic rocks

over time, can only be admired here and thousands of kilometers away in Papua New Guinea. From here you are not far from Le Morne Mountain, which is now a World Heritage Site in memory of the slaves who lost their lives jumping off this mountain while escaping their inhuman masters. A hundredmetre long trail has just been erected to enable a better view of the cultural landscape. The Ganga Talao, a crater-lake set in an idyllic landscape is the most-visited place of the island. According to legends, sacred water flowed down the Ganges River in India to settle here. The World’s highest statue of God Shiva has been erected here. If you are visiting during the Maha Shivra-

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Above: A Mauritian Icon, Shangri-la's Le Touessrok Resort & Spa, Ushers In A New Era Of Luxury Below: Port Louis, the capital city of Mauritius, located in the Port Louis District, the western part also lies in the Black River District. Port Louis is Mauritius's economic, cultural, political centre and most populous city.

tree festival in February, you will come across hoards of pilgrims on the roads, on their way to this sanctuary. This is a reminder of the fact that Mauritius is a land of festivals. Its multi-ethnic and multicultural set-up ensures a myriad of festivals all year round: Holi, the festival of colours, the Chinese Lamp festival, Divali, the festival of lights, Christmas, the festival Kreol with international participants. Sea, sea everywhere Fishing is a national hobby. Why not take a rod and try your luck at one of the many shallow lagoons around the island? On the other hand, deep-sea fishing is such a well-established sport that Mauritius annually hosts the Marlin World Cup.

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It is of note that this small Republic has one of the largest international maritime zones, as it has jurisdiction over the islands of Rodrigues, Agalega and St. Brandon. Vibrant nightlife Looking to finish it off superbly after an eventful day? Then look no further than Grand Bay, the nightlife hub. It is littered with bars, nightclubs, discos, restaurants and dancing halls, offering an amazing palette of rock, reggae, jazz, pop, without forgetting the local sega and you can party till the early hours of dawn. Mauritius will continue to remain the Star and Key of the Indian Ocean for a long time to come.



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hey left for the mountains only to return three months later, transformed from boys into men. Every year, thousands of adolescents follow the sangomas, known as traditional healers, to venture into the Drakensberg mountains which extend for hundreds of kilometres between South Africa and Lesotho, in Southern Africa. The initiates will have to overcome difficult trials awaiting them. Then, they will be circumcised under the shade of the highest peaks of the Drakensberg. On their homecoming, they will have become worthy of being men and family fathers. The boys leave behind them school and household duties that denote growing up in a village such as gathering wood, cattle breeding and grinding maize. Mothers await them in distress, fearing that the god Modise, who hides in the mountains, will

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take one of them to feed his cruelty. He who is too weak to survive in the extenuating period of the initiation will not return and will be taken – villagers whisper “sacrificed” – in the jaws of this ancestral spirit of the Basotho, who live in the Drakensberg. Legends about the three months of the initiation unfold in the excited and scared voices of those who remain. These tales are bordered on reality and myth whispered for centuries by the winds that sweep through the village, coming from the top of the mountains. For three months, the adolescents will hunt wild animals and defeat the cold, light camp fires and improvise on building shelters. Black magic will ensnare them, sent by witches and witch doctors seeking organs and human limbs to prepare their drugs. Nothing is more potent than human flesh and blood to concoct the magical effects of muthi, a blend infamous for its healing and affluent effects. The initiates will discover

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how hard it is to live in the mountains for three months. However, not a single moment of their life-changing experience will be revealed to the outsiders. The history of a proud rural people and of its kings coexist with the legends. We are in the village of Phelandaba, in eastern Lesotho, 300 kilometres away from the south-eastern coast of Africa. Here, old Malefetsane tells the story of the mythic Moshoeshoe I, forefather of the Sotho royal family. “The first Sotho king hid in the caves at the bottom of this village during the war against the Afrikaner Boer settlers at the beginning of the 19th century,” he explains, sitting in the tiny living room of the biggest house of the village. Behind him lay a world map and a picture of the ruling king, Letsie III. A group of children queues while Malefetsane sells airtime for ten maloti, the local currency, and counts the income. Moshoeshoe too was initiated, in the mountains of Menkhoaneng of the Leribe


INITIATION

Existence | Eastern Lesotho

WAITING FOR THE YOUNG MEN:

In eastern Lesotho

…the young adults of the village have left for the mountains. They will be circumcised and will come back after three months. They will be men now. In the village, apprehension and melancholy spreads as everybody awaits their return…. Words & Photographs: ALESSANDRO PARODI

district. “When he was there with his peers, they had to fight a big battle against the Voortrekkers, the avant-garde of the conquerors who came from overseas. Once the battle was over, they continued on their journey to conclude the three months of initiation”. Malefetsane, this year, is in charge of the boys’ expedition. His duty is to organise the trip to the mountain and make sure that the sangomas who will follow them will act righteously. Girls also undergo initiation, but their group will remain not far from the village. They will learn their duties as women and future housewives. Hundreds of initiates die every year in the mountains with statistics attributing 486 deaths and 455 628 hospitalised between 2008 and 2014 in the South African regions of Eastern Cape, Mpumalanga and Limpopo. Much fewer, however, are the incidences in Lesotho. “In South Africa,” furthers Malefetsane, “there is no control because of illegality and greed. Our sango-

mas are instead real guides and good medicine men. They know how to take care of the boys and nothing bad ever happens”. Most deaths are known to be caused by resultant infections from circumcisions when charlatan healers conduct the ceremonies without safety precautions and perform the actual circumcision incorrectly. Conditions are excasserbated by the winter conditions and lack of warmth and shelter and hunger for the young initiates. The South African government has taken note of the numerous deaths that have occurred in initiation rites across all denominations and is working together with traditional chiefs to educate and prevent further deaths of the youths while preserving the ancient rites at the same time. While the young men are away, a surreal aura surrounds the village of Phelandaba. A part of the community is missing and time seems to have stopped. It has to be noted that the average age in Lesotho is

21.1 years, making the group of the initiates the core of society. Schools are closed and small children slowly ride donkeys to the shack where they will grind dry corn to make maize meal. On the A1, the main road that leads to Maseru, some girls are gathering wood. People will buy it to make a fire or to fix the roof of their huts. An old woman is walking by slowly, burdened by the weight of her age. When asked about initiation, she smiles and glimpses at the mountains. Her brothers, the man she loved and the children they had together have all been there in the past. She recalls the fear as a sister, the pain as a mother, and then the joy of seeing them come back. They were covered with red clay, which symbolises that the young men passed their trial. “The entire village,” she says, “is now waiting for that moment. When the new men will come back, we will welcome them with dances, fires and feasts to be remembered in years to come”.

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AIR T H E

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T H E R E


Gallivant | The Air Up There

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From humble beginnings to owning his own helicopter company David Simelane is headed for great heights.

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nd egotistical is the last thing he is - even though he has reason to be. At age 36, this bright, charming, softspoken helicopter pilot and owner of his own helicopter charter company, has already accomplished what most people cannot pull off in a lifetime. Without the benefits of parental political influence, he is one of only a handful of black helicopter pilots in the country - and the only black co-owner of his charter company, Ultimate Heli, operating out of Grand Central Airport in Midrand, Gauteng. Despite humble beginnings, his parents gave him the best education they could afford and he passed his O Levels at Saint Marks high school in Swaziland (David’s mother is Swazi and his father is South African), but they did 48 |

Words & Photographs: JOMARIE KROMBERG

not have the funds to send him to university. Back in South Africa, he embarked on an internship in computer networking through Metrorail in 1999. "I was always interested in computers, so it made sense for me to go that route." Piloting helicopters to him at this point was akin to walking on the moon. "I worked hard and caught on quickly and I was then offered a job at Boogertman and Partners, an architectural firm in Pretoria. Werner Alberts, one of the partners in the company went round the office one day inviting people to join him on a helicopter flight he was piloting. Mysteriously, they all politely declined, but I jumped at the chance, only to discover later that this was his first flight as a qualified pilot and I was to be his first passenger!" He was hooked straight away.

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Werner asked him if he could see himself doing this the rest of his life and the dream was born. The two of them created a business plan and went to the government transport SETA with high hopes of introducing (with the SETA’s financial backing) gifted, black, would-be pilots into the training program, but the course cost R500,000 per pilot (about $30,000) - more than twice that of a fixed-wing pilot’s training. "We kept at it for three and a half years, but they wouldn’t budge." In the meantime, his IT career was taking off and he was about to head into the big time with a great job offer, when the SETA finally let them know that they had decided to fund the pilot training initiative. "Now I was faced with the biggest decision of my life. I had a wife and new baby at home and the IT world would provide stability and a good income, but sud-


Should I wear my uniform?" David Simelane asked me on the phone after we decided on a date for our photo shoot. "Of course!" I replied. "Why wouldn’t you?" "Well, I don’t want to come off as egotistical."

denly the possibility of realising my dream was right there in front of me." It took some soul searching, but the dream won out and together with four other incumbents, he started his helicopter pilot training on August 15, 2004. Only two of them eventually qualified, and on 21 April 2006, he received his commercial helicopter pilot’s license. And he worked his proverbial backside off getting there. "Terms like Black Economic Empowerment simply do not apply in this profession. You start from the bottom and there are no short cuts, no matter who you are connected to or the colour of your skin. If you are not properly trained or do not understand every single minutia of the technical aspects of the aircraft and proper procedures, lives are literally at stake. I feel privileged though in another way because as hard as the course was - and believe me, it was blood, sweat and tears at times - I will always know that my achievements are based solely on merit and nothing else," said Simelane. And achievements he has aplenty. He worked for Netstar Vehicle Tracking, chasing bad guys for a couple of years - an experience he describes as “one of the most adrenaline fueled, satisfying experiences of his life''. "Going home and knowing you may have helped to save someone’s life and got

criminals caught that day is a great feeling." His company Alpine Aviation then started a commercial helicopter route between Johannesburg and Vilancoulos in Mozambique, which he headed up to get experience on turbine choppers, a lucrative skill in the industry. He also worked in the north of the country for a Brazilian mining company. "I was based there for half a year during 2008 and then the economy took a serious dive. We had to cut down on flights drastically. I had to watch as bad business decisions were being made without personally having any real influence and I had to walk away." Luckily, the South African Broadcasting Corporation hired him to choreograph the entire aerial footage for the 2009 National Elections. He then went to work for the Civil Aviation Authority, but he had already had a taste of freedom and running his own show and the bureaucracy, red tape, admin and deadly routine proved too much for such a free spirit. "Alpine was sold and in 2010 I was invited to join the new, reborn company once again." However, his excitement didn’t last. "It didn’t work. Money was dreadfully mismanaged and the company had to close down finally. It was an awful time." He then decided to take the plunge and start his own company. On 24 October,

Ultimate Heli was born with him and partner Shaun Roseveare as co-founders and directors. They incorporated their previous staff of five people and grew their staff compliment to 20 staff members. Since then, he has flown dignitaries, movie stars, billionaires and presidents, but one of his fondest memories is his very first flight as Ultimate Heli. "I flew the Top Gear guys to the Magaliesberg. Jeremy Clarkson is a fantastic guy and I have since flown him and his son as well." So what does the future hold? "Shaun and I are currently exploiting opportunities north of the Limpopo. There is massive growth in Africa for our industry and that is where our expansion vision lies as well as laying the foundation for the company to operate independently of us eventually shouldn’t that be the goal for all company owners?" Right now Ultimate Heli is developing their very own heliport in the Waterval area of Midrand, to be completed this year. "I want to be ready for whatever comes. Ours is a volatile industry and the best I can do is try to adapt to any situation. Who knows what the future holds? As long as we have a strong foundation, I’m sure we can weather any storm." And the most satisfying part of his job? "Being able to pay my staff properly and see them thrive."

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U N P A C K I N G

T H E

SMART CITY C O N C E P T

I N

A F R I C A

The smart cities phenomenon is catching up with Africa having globally started less than 10 years ago. There is need to look at the way African cities are taking to the idea, especially ahead of two meetings later this year: the 52nd International Society of City and Regional Planners (ISOCARP) International Planning Congress scheduled for Durban in September (2016.isocarp.org) and the Smart City Africa Conference in Abidjan, Ivory Coast (December). Words: MARTIN CHEMHERE

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Focus Africa | The Smart City Concept

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he ISOCARP Congress is not directly dealing with the smart cities subject; however, the forthcoming event will feature a discussion titled “Intelligent Cities for People” that will explore issues related to smart cities. “Perhaps after the Congress we will have more meaningful findings for African cities, as this is one of the goals of the congress”, says Slawomir Ledwon, ISOCARP’s Vice President Congresses and Events. ISOCARP’s theme this year is "Cities We Have vs. Cities We Need." “This theme was conceived as a catalyst to foster trans-disciplinary ways to interpret the past and conceive the future of cities. This requires a reflection on current practices of planning and the making of cities and for the generation of different ways in which the cities we need are created. “It calls for sharing of knowledge and practice about cities as well as innovative ways in which desirable cities of the future are created. The theme provides an opportunity to work toward collaborative solutions for the challenges faced by the cities we have in order to create the cities we need in future,” says Ledwon. Major topics to look out for at this year’s event include Transforming Human Settlements; Planning Activism and Social Justic; Envisaging Planning Theory and Practice for the Next Planning Activism and Social Justice, Envisaging Planning Theory and Practice for the Next Decades; Urban Planning and Policy Making in Times of Uncertainty; Fragility and

Insecurity; Intelligent Cities for People and Planning for an Interlinked and Integrated Rural-Urban Development. Transforming Human Settlements focuses on the planning, building, development and management of human settlements. It addresses spatial patterns of social and economic inequality and their potential integration. Planning Activism and Social Justice will deal with the role of activism within planning process and how it has impacted cities and redefined planning priorities, for better and worse. Envisaging Planning Theory and Practice for the Next Decades will provide a critique of inherited planning practices and highlights innovation where planning theory and practice is reinvented or recast to create more relevant cities in the developing world. The theme of Urban Planning and Policy Making in Times of Uncertainty, Fragility and Insecurity will look at how planning as an instrument can help address the challenge of environmental, political and economic uncertainty, as well as be used to dominate and subjugate citizens. This theme elaborates the role of planning in situations of change. Intelligent Cities for People will tackle the definition of smart cities where technology and access to data can be exploited for an unprecedented awareness and control of our built environment. While technology flourishes, have the human priorities of these cities been appropriately defined? Planning for an Interlinked and Integrated Rural-Urban Development is a subtheme exploring the changing conceptu-

alisation of the urban rural divide and the possibility of new forms of urbanity and rural existence. Should or can rural-urban migration be mitigated by intelligent villages and rural development? Must urban development be more shaped by its nonurban context? These topics will be facilitated by gurus in global city planning and related fields such as Vanessa Watson and Nicholas You. Vanessa Watson is Professor of City Planning in the School of Architecture, Planning and Geomatics at the University of Cape Town (South Africa). She holds degrees from the Universities of Natal, Cape Town and the Architectural Association of London, and a PhD from the University of Witwatersrand, and is a Fellow of the University of Cape Town. Nicholas You is a veteran urban specialist and thought leader. Prior to his retirement he was the senior policy and planning advisor to UN-Habitat and the manager of the Habitat II Conference held in Istanbul in 1996. Working with various partnerships is at the core of ISOCARP, engaging in collaborations and models, which are key to the organisation and its congresses. ISOCARP has its head office in The Hague, Netherlands, with a worldwide membership of 713 organisations in total. Of the total membership figure, Africa contributes 97 members spread across nineteen countries on the continent. “I advise that delegates from all over the world and all countries should come to Durban and participate. We are also open to receive bids to host ISOCARP congress in 2018 and beyond,” concluded Ledwon.

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Interview | Andy Kozlov

INTERVIEW WITH

ANDY KOZLOV Independent Consultant, Smart City Africa The International Society of City and Regional Planners (ISOCARP) is a global association of experienced professional planners. It was founded in 1965 in a bid to bring together recognised and highly-qualified planners in an international network. Nomad Africa magazine’s MARTIN CHEMHERE interviews Andy Kozlov, an Independent Consultant for Smart City Africa on his wide experience working on the smart city concept in Africa and globally.

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he ISOCARP network brings together individual and institutional members from more than 80 countries worldwide. Members are planners and other stakeholders involved in the development and maintenance of the built environment. As a nongovernmental organisation ISOCARP is recognised by the United Nations (UN), the United Nations Human Settlements

Programme (UNHCS/UN-HABITAT), and the Council of Europe. The Society also has a formal consultative status with the United Nations Education, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO). Andy Kozlov tells us more

within the administrative limits of the municipality and beyond them.

Q: What is a “smart city” by definition? A: It's an urban community that uses information and communication technology to augment people power and comfortably accommodate people of all ages, both

Q: The concept of smart cities is new globally, when was it first initiated and tell us its origins? A: According to some sources, in 2008. This is when the US multinational technol-

Q: How does a city begin the journey to becoming a smart city? A: Focus on people - your smartest asset.

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ogy and consulting corporation IBM began work on the concept as part of its Smarter Planet initiative. Q: How big is the smart city concept in Africa? A: The way I understand this question one thing is for certain, we need to collectively work on unifying the data systems in Africa and elsewhere. If you can't measure it you cannot make it. Q: What is the potential of the concept to cities in Africa? A: I would suggest we look at each city in detail. And as you do that: in big cities (Lagos, Kinshasa, Cairo) look at their peripheries. In secondary cities, mind their comparative advantage. And most of us, even Africa experts, we are clueless about second-tier cities. Alternatively - ask yourself: how many of the four hundred 100,000-strong towns can you name in India from the top of your head? Q: How well received has been the Smart City concept in Africa and which African countries have taken to the idea very well so far? A: I think of Morocco and Rwanda. They say that the latter is the Israel of Africa as far as smart city tech is concerned. Rwandans realise they are a small market and so from day one they tend to develop technology with the international markets in mind. I suggest you disregard all those artificial Konza City (Kenya), CitĂŠ du Fleuve (DRC) types. They don't appear to care much for the poor. And I prefer to be strict with our queen of Africa (South Africa). For me to be able to say that the Republic of South Africa took the smart city concept on, the country would have to be much faster and thorough in the deployment process given the higher-than-average starting point. 54 |

Q: Which topics do you think will be popular at Smart City Africa and why? A: Those will be smart financing, smart energy, smart governance and citizen engagement, smart health, smart buildings. The organisers see major potential in those directions. Q: Can you reveal to us some of the notable speakers confirmed to attend, and which countries do they come from and what is their reputation in the sector? A: The event is to take place in December and the selection is still ongoing. A similar event held in Nairobi had invited thought leaders of urban development, both from within Africa and from the outside. This included leading city branding experts, architects, community developers, innovators and influencers, to make the most of the future cities of Africa. Q: Africa is full of challenges as a developing region, tell us some of the challenges that city and regional planners in Africa face today and how can Smart City Africa help in this regard? A: Population growth, lack of employment, lack of teachers and doctors, non-existent, patchy and slow internet connection. Smart City Africa is just one of networking opportunities. We need dozens of similar events every single month in many African cities all year round Q: Tell us the key drivers of a typical Smart City? A: Great question! Yet again, there is no such thing as a typical smart city. By definition, smart city stands out of the crowd, has a cutting edge to it. There's no formula. Q: What kind of benefits can cities enjoy through implementing this concept?

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A: People-centredness, flourishing communities that are connected to the rest of the world regardless of how distant they are from the national capital or other major cities in the country. Q: Give us examples of African cities that are in the Smart Cities programme and how their status or performance is at the moment? A: To my knowledge, there is no smart city ranking for Africa as of yet. Watch what is happening in Kigali, Casablanca, Abidjan, Cape Town and Addis Ababa. Q: To what extent does Smart Cities help African tourism and economic growth in general? A: If I understand the question well, tourism flows flourish where there is stability and basic infrastructure like roads and airflight connections. You don't really need your city to be smart to achieve that minimum. Q: Obviously Smart Cities Africa works with various partnerships, tell us how important this is to the success of the event and its future? A: Sponsors are always key. The Nairobi event had to be cancelled at last minute this year for lack of sponsors. So hiring networked sponsor managers is key. Q: How do you see the future of Africa and the world at large from the Smart Cities Africa organisers perspective? A: As an indie expert (consultant), I see that future in training and deploying teams of well-connected networkers to bounce around ideas and check theories against smart city practitioners around the world. Education! Delegating responsibility for the future to the youth.



EAST AFRICA:

THE NEXT HUB FOR APPAREL SOURCING?

East African countries—in particular, Ethiopia and Kenya—have the potential to become bigger players in garment manufacturing. But the road ahead won’t be easy. In the past two years, a number of European companies—among them, H&M, Primark and Tesco—began sourcing some of their garments from Ethiopia. The rest of the apparel industry took notice: Since 2013, there has been rising interest in not just Ethiopia, but also other East African countries as potential sourcing destinations for apparel. Words: ACHIM BERG, SASKIA HEDRICH & BILL RUSSO

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lso contributing to the buzz is the renewal of the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), which gives certain countries in sub-Saharan Africa duty-free access to the US

market. What is the true potential of East Africa to grow into a major garment-sourcing hub? To find out, we visited factories in the region; interviewed stakeholders, including manufacturers and buyers; and analysed market data. In addition, we conducted a survey of chief purchasing officers (CPOs), this time with a series of questions focused on East Africa. Nearly three-quarters of survey respondents said, as they did in 2011 and 2013, that over the next five years, they expect to reduce their purchases from Chinese firms. Chinese apparel production has indeed fallen since 2010—but China remains the undisputed giant of garment manufacturing, with approximately $177 billion in apparel exports in 2013. The East Africa opportunity According to United Nations projections, subSaharan Africa will have the highest growth in 56 |

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Business Nomad | Apparel Sourcing

working-age population anywhere over the next 20 years. By 2035, the working-age population in the region is expected to be as large as China’s today—more than 900 million people. This massive labour pool is capturing the attention of several industries, including apparel. Within sub-Saharan Africa, East African countries—especially Ethiopia and Kenya, and to a lesser extent Uganda and Tanzania—are of interest to apparel buyers. The governments of both Ethiopia and Kenya are taking steps to develop their domestic textile and garment industries. Each of the two countries has strengths and weaknesses. Our research and interviews revealed, for example, that Ethiopia has cost advantages, whereas Kenya boasts higher production efficiency. Challenges common to both countries include poor infrastructure, cumbersome customs processes, a dearth of technical and managerial talent, and low levels of social and environmental compliance. Ethiopia Apparel buyers today are sourcing basic, large-volume items from Ethiopia: T-shirts accounted for 46 percent of the country’s exports to the EU-15, and trousers 31 percent. As much as 60 percent of exports are sent to Germany and 10 percent to the United States. But Ethiopia accounts for a mere 0.01 percent of total apparel exports, according to the World Trade Organization. Why, then, is Ethiopia such a hot topic for apparel buyers? Our interviewees and survey respondents said the biggest reason is cost. Ethiopia’s wages for garment workers are among the lowest globally; at below $60 per month, and work-permit costs for foreign workers are less than one-tenth of those in neighbouring Kenya. Additionally, Ethiopia has low electricity prices. The country has a strong supply of hydroelectric power, and while the power grid is not the most reliable, the Ethiopian government is building a separate grid for new industrial zones currently under development. Ethiopia could someday become a source of raw materials: It has more than 3.2 million hectares of land with a suitable climate for cotton cultivation. Yet, barely 7 percent of that land is being used today. The combination of low land-utilisation rates, planning errors, low crop yields, and quality problems

means Ethiopia has had to import cotton. Social compliance has also been an issue. For example, organic-cotton cultivation recently suffered a setback after garment manufacturers supplying European firms became entangled in land-grabbing accusations in Ethiopia’s Omo Valley. Another problem is production efficiency, which currently runs between 40 and 50 percent, and long lead times. Eighty percent of the CPOs in our survey cited production inefficiency as a challenge to the growth of apparel sourcing in Ethiopia. Kenya Like Ethiopia’s, Kenya’s apparel industry currently specialises in supplying high-volume bulk basics such as trousers, which account for 58 percent of its exports to the United States. The typical minimum order size is 10,000 pieces; the country’s larger players have minimum order sizes of 25,000 to 50,000 pieces. Kenya has benefited greatly from AGOA— 92 percent of its apparel exports in 2013 went to the United States, according to UN Comtrade. Suppliers we interviewed said the EU’s Economic Partnership Agreement isn’t as much of an incentive: The overall duty-free advantage is less than that of AGOA, and the competition with low-cost Asian countries is stiff, as they too are benefiting from preferential agreements with the European Union. Some Kenyan manufacturers said they aren’t eager to expand their business to Europe because they perceive European buyers as more demanding with respect to lead times, order sizes and quality. The capacity of Kenya’s garment factories has grown markedly in recent years, thanks to foreign direct investments from Asia and the Middle East, as well as support from the Export Processing Zones developed by the Kenyan government. Factories have grown larger and more efficient; they now have around 1,500 employees on average compared with around 560 in the year 2000. However, as a result of the lack of a local upstream industry, manufacturers must import fabrics—which means considerably longer lead times. Fabrics from overseas can take up to 40 days to make their way through customs and to a garment factory. Manufacturers and buyers alike said that another challenge of doing business in

Kenya is comparatively high labour costs, with monthly wages for garment workers in the $120 to $150 range. Energy costs are also high, and because the power supply is spotty, factories often have to rely on generators. In Africa, power from generators works out to be four times as expensive as power from the grid. Like Ethiopia, Kenya will need to address compliance and risk issues if it is to attract more international buyers. According to the CPOs we surveyed, corruption, high crime rates, and poor social compliance is among the core challenges they face in Kenya. Future scenarios for East Africa As part of our analysis, we created, tested, and refined three scenarios for the evolution of East Africa—in particular, Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda—over the next decade. In 2013, these four countries’ apparel exports totalled $337 million. The first scenario is that East Africa will remain a niche market. This scenario assumes that free-trade agreements with the United States and the European Union will continue. In part as a result of volatility in currencies and equity markets, the prospects for the region will remain rather modest. In the second scenario, East Africa becomes a new sourcing option for several large players in the basics categories, and the region’s apparel exports more than double. In this scenario, East Africa’s garment companies move beyond cut, make and trim facilities and embark on the path to vertical integration—but this process could take several years. If East Africa is to experience sustainable growth in garment manufacturing, collaboration among all stakeholders is a must. A third scenario assumes that major apparel companies from around the world begin to open sourcing offices in East Africa. The region attracts enough investment to upgrade facilities and recruit skilled workers, and its export volumes approach those of countries such as Mexico or Pakistan. But even in this scenario, it could take years for vertically integrated, indigenous players to appear in the region—and that might be achievable only if the countries cooperate to build regional value chains. This article is adapted from Sourcing in a volatile world: The East Africa opportunity, an April 2015 report from the Apparel, Fashion & Luxury Group in McKinsey’s Retail Practice.

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AFRICA

On The Cover | Border Free Future?

LOOKING FORWARD TO A BORDER FREE FUTURE? While visa-free travel in the European Union is coming under fire, another part of the world is taking the first step towards a border-free travel. The African Union plans to distribute a common, electronic passport to all African citizens by 2018, granting them visa-free access to all 54 states in the union. Words: MONICA ASHLEY LE-COURE

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y connecting African countries, the initiative aims to jumpstart trade and socioeconomic development. Countries that have already improved visa procedures (including Rwanda, Uganda and the Seychelles) have seen an upward trajectory for travel figures, in addition to employment, exports, and investments. The project was called a “symbolic and significant” step toward an “integrated and united” Africa in a statement from last month’s African Union summit in Rwanda. The AU passports, CNN reports, will initially be given to heads of state and senior government officials. The creation of the colonial Africa borders has been the problem since inception. Presently, Africa shows the scars of the Conference of Berlin that created artificial states with the forced and inconsistent

amalgamation of native states and without their own populations' input or consent. The map of Africa in 1887 shows that the European Powers who divided up Central Africa did not have any knowledge or information on the nations and countries they were cutting up. African states were unexplored, one of the reasons being that only coastal areas and only those that offered attractive natural conditions as ports or harbours were chosen by the Colonial powers to settle there and establish trading hubs where products from the interior of Africa would come to the Port cities and from there they would be shipped to Europe. If the goals of the vision 2063 are feasible, tourism has the potential to accelerate Africa’s economic growth and job creation. It can also help accelerate the reforms needed to improve airline and road transport as well as other key infrastructure, besides raising the incomes of young men and women who form a high percentage of the

job holders in the sector. To achieve this target, African governments and the private sector must work together to address obstacles such as land access and visa regulations to expand tourism opportunities, transform business climates and energise job creation, especially for women and youth. “Africa’s mountains, savannahs and rivers, and cultural events such as music, dance and festivals are far above the natural assets found in other regions,” said Iain Christie of the World Bank. According to her, with these natural attributes, tourism can play an enormous role in development. But to do so, it must be integrated into each country’s economy and government structure and be seen as a benefit by everyone. More tourists would translate to more jobs, more investment opportunities and more money for the continent to embark on capital projects. All these are achievable with the new African Passport and a viable open sky policy.

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A CONTINENT WITH SEAMLESS BORDERS

Africa has seen a significant boom in the amount of tourism in the last 3 years, and that boom is not slowing down. Africa has demonstrated tremendous potential in terms of growing its tourism industry and is still rapidly expanding. This should not be a surprise considering the vast diversity on the African continent and the fact that each country has something unique to offer. Words: BRUCE GERMAINE

The 15th May bridge, the Nile river & the Corniche Street in central Cairo, Egypt. 60 |

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Existence | A Continent with Seamless Boarders

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frican tourism expansion has a direct economic impact, leading to more employment opportunities and according to the African Tourism Monitor report, over 20 million people are directly or indirectly employed in the tourism sector. The tourism growth should pose no surprise since Africa has some awe-inspiring sights that attract tourists from all over the world. South Africa has consistently performed as being in the African top 10 tourist destinations due to its good infrastructure and air travel industry compared to neighbouring countries. In addition, South Africa is still benefitting from post 2010 World Cup fruits boasting several sports stadiums that can host significant entertainment and international sport events. Coupled with this are the country’s efforts to reduce red tape and encourage business development in the tourism industry, all this despite the recent change and subsequent reversal of an immigration requirement demanding that all minors have an unabridged birth certificate when entering the country. (This requirement was recently relaxed resulting in palpable relief for the local tourism industry). While no one can dispute the enormous tourism potential that Africa has, it is arguably only beginning to realise its potential and is in the early stages of exploiting

its natural and cultural tourism gems fully. General and outstanding challenges facing the continent remain infrastructure, health, hygiene and safety concerns. In the long term, deforestation and loss of habitat and wildlife could become a serious challenge going forward. On a positive note, numerous countries have strategic plans in place, but there is more that can be done to attract greater numbers of tourists. Travel facilitation and travel restrictions are being looked at as a means to encourage and make entry into African countries relatively problem free. For instance, Central African nations require most of the world’s population to get a traditional visa albeit East Africa having the lowest requirements. West Africa has also been been very progressive with 15 members of Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS) introducing a visa policy that enables free movement of people across member states. Such moves to facilitate travel itineraries that take in more than one country will prove an attraction to international tourists. Looking at the aviation industry and how it caters to the African tourism demand, numerous air routes between Africa and other countries have opened up, most air travel routes within Africa have restrictive bilateral agreements, but an IATA report notes that liberalising air travel between countries may increase tourism such as the

agreement between South Africa and Kenya in the early 2000s resulting in a 69% rise in passenger traffic. Another case in point is how Ethiopian Airlines forged ahead with numerous bilateral agreements to become one of the largest and most profitable airlines in Africa. The McKinsey Global Institute, a business and economics research think tank, reports that tourists are attracted to countries with good infrastructure, safety, security and sanitation. Tourists, especially those from America and Europe, do not accept bad roads, poorly maintained airport or power outages, which will ultimately affect their comfort and enjoyment of their stay. Innovative approaches have already been adopted such as going beyond regular safaris to new adventures such as gorilla tracking in the Virunga Mountains that span Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). Increased tourist traffic means more foreign cash spent on hotels, restaurants, tour guides and souvenirs and thus stimulating local economies. Cultural tourism attracts travellers to international Film Festivals, for example, while simultaneously developing events into flagship tourist attractions. Some countries are moving in the right direction. Frommer’s, an American travel guide series categorised Ethiopia as one of the world’s top 12 destinations once, while the 2010 World Soccer Cup in South Africa attracted a multitude of international visi-

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tors, the after effects of which are still an ongoing process with Cape Town being a top travel destinations in Africa today. The right infrastructure, safety and security, and effective communication of the continent’s attractions can be starting points. From the home of the Pharaohs in Egypt

and the enigmatic sphynx structure to the carved sandstone churches in the Gheralta Mountains in Ethiopia to the white beaches of Mauritius and the Seychelles, the Namibian Dessert, Great Zimbabwe and the mighty Victoria falls, Tourism in Africa will further grow if countries begin to proactively explore the possibility of becoming

visa friendly countries, allowing visitors to spend international currencies in their countries. This is a lucrative opportunity for countries to be explored and a prime example of how the future potential of the new African passport may be the most ideal travel document needed to date to explore Africa.



UNITED AFRICA: IS A VISA-FREE AFRICAN FUTURE BENEFICIAL? While Brexit recently shook the stability of the European Union, the African Union is planning to break boundaries and welcoming integration through the introduction of a common passport for all African citizens by 2020. Words: NICOLE LESCHINSKY

African leaders gather for the 27th African Union Summit in Kigali, Rwanda, July 17. The summit saw the launch of an Africa-wide passport aimed at promoting freedom of movement within the continent.

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On The Cover | United Africa: How Beneficial?

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s of last month, the African continent has moved a step closer to having visa-free travel available to all African nationals, with the roll-out of the African passport, part of the ambitious Vision 2063 plan, which could profoundly impact the continent in terms of intra-regional trade, economic development, and regional integration. In a move that some are calling ‘the makings of the United States of Africa,’ the official African passport was unveiled in July this year at the African Union (AU) summit in Kigali, Rwanda. The AU’s vision is to distribute a single, common visa-free (or visaon-arrival) electronic African passport to all African citizens, giving visa-free access to all 54 AU member states. Within the framework of Africa’s Agenda 2063, the project aims for mandatory granting of a minimum 30-day visa for African citizens visiting any African country by 2018, and an inspiring goal of a single, continental passport by 2020. Even more ambitious is the vision for the African GDP being projected to reach the size of the US and EU combined by the year 2050. Dr Nkosazana Dlamini-Zuma, outgoing Chairperson of the African Union Commission (AUC), described the initiative as symbolic and significant, calling it a “steady step toward the objective of creating a strong, prosperous and integrated Africa,

driven by its own citizens and capable of taking its rightful place on the world stage.” Dlamini-Zuma urged Heads of State to create conditions for member states to issue the passport to their citizens, "within their national policies, as and when they are ready." President Idriss Deby of Chad, Chairperson of the AU said, "These are great steps we are taking. Our Union has great ambitions in order to ensure economic and political integration. “The passport seeks to create advantageous visa-regimes across the continent and later on create a pathway for a visafree Africa, under the AU agenda of the "Africa We Want." (Source: All Africa News) There are challenges for implementing the plan. There is the risk of widespread economic migration to wealthier economies, such has been the case in the EU. In South Africa, there are already many illegal immigrants who entered the country looking for a better life, and a large number of individuals are not registered and don’t own identification documents. Historically, borders have been porous and individuals have taken extreme, dangerous measures to enter another country. African Union Commissioner for Social Affairs, Dr Mustapha Sidiki Kaloko, is suggesting that visa-free travel within Africa could potentially reduce emigration to other continents. It could also hypothetically form a hierarchy of citizens who can afford to travel, and the rich get richer, while the di-

vide between rich and the poor grows even wider. If visa-free travel can truly benefit all African citizens because of growing economies, more work opportunities and better food security, then it is a step in the right direction. However, advanced electronic border management systems and security need to be in place to mitigate risks of trafficking and crime. There is the risk that open borders allow for easier movement of illegal goods, cross-border infiltration of terrorism, as well as the spreading of disease. The issue of xenophobia has been a huge factor in integration and trade in South Africa and Zambia. Many African airlines went bankrupt, hindering travel, and there are high import tariffs halting trade. There are also 33 fluctuating currencies in 54 countries, therefore the way united Africans trade will need to be negotiated. The AU’s visa-free travel vision is challenging, but it also presents an opportunity for the African economy. African countries that have pioneered visa-free travel have reaped the rewards and suggest there is more to be gained than lost. The free movement of people, capital, goods and services serves to assist in job creation and world-class, integrative infrastructure across the continent being provided. This fosters tourism, facilitates trade and investments amongst African countries and strengthens Africa’s place in global trade. Students will have more opportunities to study in other African countries and new skills will enter the market.

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Top: The African Union Commission chairperson, Dr. Dlamini Zuma (Left) and President Paul Kagame in the Smart Board meeting in Kigali, Rwanda. Dr. Dlamini was impressed by Rwanda’s Organisation of AU Summit.

The AU’s vision is to distribute a single, common visa-free (or visaon-arrival) electronic African passport to all African citizens, giving visa-free access to all 54 AU member states. 66 |

It is also worth considering that the passport is a visible symbol of breaking down barriers and creating unity across Africa. Of course, the symbol is only relevant to African people if and when it is available to all as initially, it will only be issued to Heads of State and Government, Foreign Affairs Ministers and the permanent representatives of the AU member states. Ghana recently took the lead by introducing a visa-on-arrival policy, which allows any citizens of AU member states to visit the country with the option to stay in Ghana for up to 30 days. The Ghanaian Government believes the move will stimulate trade, investment and tourism. Hannah Tetteh, Foreign Affairs Minister of Ghana said, “Goods and services move because people make them move. “It’s important to consider how we manage the process of people moving across our continent, with a view to creating greater economic opportunities for all of us.” Other African countries such as the Seychelles, Mauritius and Rwanda have also enabled visa-on-arrival and have seen an upward trajectory of travel figures, as well as employment, exports and investments. Since changing regulations, tourism in the Seychelles has increased by an average of

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7% between 2009 and 2014. Rwanda’s 2013 visa-free policy has also reaped the benefits with an estimated 24% increase in tourism arrivals from African countries and a 50% increase in intra-African trade. According to the AfDB, trade between Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo increased by 73% since the implementation of the policy. Speaking about Rwanda, Hon. Claver Gatete, Minister for Finance & Economic Planning said, “It should become easier to do business in Africa. A seamless migration policy will boost the local economy and reduce poverty. It well help tourism numbers, and anybody has the right to come here (to Ghana).” AMB. Sammie Eddicio, Chairperson at the International Organisation for Migration (IOM), believes African countries that follow in the Seychelles and Ghana’s footsteps stand to reap the benefits. At the IOM conference in September 2015, he stated, “The term migrants is often seen from a negative perspective, even though there is more to gain from migration than there is to lose.” “The aim is to enhance the capacities of Africa’s regional frameworks on migration to facilitate intra-regional migration, labour


These are great steps we are taking. Our Union has great ambitions in order to ensure economic and political integration. The passport seeks to create advantageous visa-regimes across the continent and later on create a pathway for a visa-free Africa, under the AU agenda of the "Africa We Want."

mobility, free movement of persons and integrated border management.” Africa has one of the highest visa requirements per country in the world. According to the Africa Visa Openness Report 2016, currently Africans need visas to travel to 55% of countries on the African continent. In comparison, North-American citizens need visas to travel to 45% of African countries. Below: The first African passports was issued at the 27th Africa Union Summit in Kigali, Rwanda to the presidents of Chad and Rwanda.

The majority of African nationals have to go through difficult immigration processes, which is often a cost that many simply cannot afford. With the reality of visa fees, visa requirements and immigration processes hindering tourism and business opportunities, the benefits of a unified, open and visa-free continent could open doors to unlimited opportunities. The driving force behind the passport is to increase trade relations between African nations, where the vast available resources are currently extremely limited to trade. According to the AU, intra-Africa trade stands at only 12%, compared to 40% in North America and 60% in Western Europe, both areas where there is free movement between states and countries. The Africa Agenda 2063 plan is to boost intraAfrican trade from 12% to 45% by 2045, and raise Africa’s share of global trade from 2% to 12%. (Source: African Union) The heads of state and government of the Common Market for Eastern and Southern Africa (COMESA), East African Community (EAC) and Southern African Development Community (SADC) met in June, 2015 in Egypt to officially launch the COMESAEAC-SADC Tripartite Free Trade Area (TFTA). The creation of a free trade area from Cape Town to Cairo was possibly the most significant event in Africa since the formation of the AU in 1963, and considered a milestone for Africa’s regional integration process. The 26 countries represent 48% of the AU membership, a combined population of 632 million and a combined GDP of 1.3 million trillion dollars. The area spans 17.3 million square kilome-

tres. If the TFTA countries were one country, it would be the thirteenth largest economy in the world. It is a brazen move to merge existing regional organisations into a single African economic community. The question will be whether Africa can mitigate integration barriers. Fatima Haram ACYL, Commissioner for Trade & Industry, AU said, “Colonial powers divided Africa, but we are better as an integrated continent. Some countries are still sceptical about embracing a borderless Africa, but they need to realise there is One Africa. One Market. She added, “Today, our young are migrating to Europe. We live in a world with terrorists, ignorance, intolerance and lack of respect of human dignity. These problems lead to extreme actions, but we need to address the root causes of why these challenges are here. We need to have systems in place to address these issues at our borders to allow free movement of people. The proportion of risks is less than the benefits we will get. The whole world has this problem, not just Africa.” The idea of a borderless Africa and its potential to transform the continent’s economies has received strong backing from Africa’s entrepreneurs and government. The countries that have benefitted from visa-free policies suggest that the stimulation of open borders in Africa is geared to aid investment in infrastructure and education and will narrow the divide. Careful regulation and implementation plans will be essential to its success.

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On The Cover | One Africa, One Visa

ONE AFRICA

ONE VISA

One Africa – One Visa – One Passport – a much talked about concept and vision came to fruition at the recent 27th African Union (AU) summit in Kigali, Rwanda – however, a long road lies ahead for African countries who hope to get on board in what is expected to be a united Africa in terms of mobility for Africans on the continent as well as boosting trade and economic growth opportunities. Words: BRUCE GERMAINE

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Photographs: ALESSANDRO PARODI

hile the issuing and presentation of the first African Union Epassports to President of Chad Idriss Déby and Rwandan leader Paul Kagame at the summit was certainly a milestone in terms of getting the ball rolling since the Lagos Plan in the 1980s and the 1991 Treaty Establishing the African Economic Community (AEC) known as the Abuja Treaty, it is not clear how ordinary citizens of African countries will be able to get their own E-passports issued, since the document will initially be available to

heads of state, government officials and diplomats to begin with. Termed as being “symbolic and significant for the continent”, the chairperson of the African Union Commission, Dr. Nkosazana Dlamini-Zuma has been a driving force of this initiative albeit the concept itself not being new. But what exactly are the challenges of a “one passport for all Africa” concept? “I think the intention is there, but we need to move beyond intention to real delivery, so I am hopeful, but I am not holding my breath” says Dr Martyn Davies, Managing Director Emerging Markets & Africa, a division of Deloitte & Touche Johannesburg, South Africa.

Some would argue that beyond the actual need for the promotion of a universal African passport lies a very significant factor – and that is for each African country to realise actual benefits of having access to such a document and how it affects its own interests as an independent state. Liesl Louw, an AU expert form the Institute of Security Studies: “We should put it into perspective and not be optimistic that “tomorrow” all African citizens are going to able to travel visa free. Immigration, migration, xenophobia and of course sovereignty, are major issues that African countries have to deal with. The AU has a certain vision and certain ideas of how African states should work

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Goods and transports cross the Kazungula border daily. The Kazungula ferry links Botswana and Zambia. A consistent portion of the import/export of the two countries happens through the ferry. AFRICAN countries will soon begin toenjoy free movement of goods and persons with the aid of a new African Passport.

Immigration, migration, xenophobia and of course sovereignty, are major issues that African countries have to deal with. The AU has a certain vision and certain ideas of how African states should work together, but in the end it’s a case of “you cannot tell us how to run our countries or our immigration laws.”

together, but in the end it’s a case of “you cannot tell us how to run our countries or our immigration laws.” Looking at the European Union as a concept and the EU passport juxtaposed with the various similarities that those democracies collectively comprise of which make up the EU, how far or how near is Africa in terms of realising an AU passport for ordinary citizens? Dr Martyn Davies is not convinced that it is the actual political system of member states that will be a deciding factor: “I am not sure that it’s about a political system than it is about political will, arguably I see 70 |

your point, maybe you are right in saying there needs to be a shared political value system where we all agree on a certain point, whether it’s a free flow of people, for example, EU style, at least pre Brexit across the region, but I think in our case visas are a major source of revenue for the respective or recipient government, that’s the first point. Secondly is the difficulty of putting the respective fail-safe systems in place to allow the free flow of human capital, the biometric systems and the like. And thirdly, it’s often the unspoken about or unrealised example of localised, at re-

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gional levels, political animosities between respective governments. For example, I was in Namibia recently, a fellow SADC (Southern Africa Development Community) member and I were horrified to find that as a South African I needed a visa. This is a neighbouring country and I find it very strange, as we are all part of SADC, that we all have an ambition towards deeper integration , even monetary integration , and yet I cannot even get across the border as a South African business person for a visit of a day or two. I think, ultimately what we need to see is that the AU can oversee this at a regional


In the context of Africa, there are 28 EU member states, yet we have 54 countries in Africa, 53 are members of the AU. We are a far bigger project, arguably within the geographic distance , the lack of infrastructure, the linguistic and cultural divide exacerbated by lack of traditional collaboration at regional level, and the lack of political will and intent really to get things done all hamper the deeper integration goal.”

level , we need to see far more progress around regional common position rather than a continental one that is far more multi-lateral and thus very difficult to plan and ultimately implement.” If we look beyond the issue of free flow of human movement and a common passport for all among AU members, but also at a broader outlook in terms of stimulating economic growth and trade, currencies among others, what are some of the challenges that lie ahead for the AU? “In the context of Africa, there are 28 EU

member states, yet we have 54 countries in Africa, 53 are members of the AU. We are a far bigger project, arguably within the geographic distance, the lack of infrastructure, the linguistic and cultural divide exacerbated by lack of traditional collaboration at regional level, and the lack of political will and intent really to get things done all hamper the deeper integration goal” according to Dr Martyn Davies. “Again, many people pose the question, what exactly will happen if the AU were to disappear, will it really affect our lives?

That was point raised by foreign policy makers, leading up to the AU summit, which raises very valid questions. From the European experiment, i.e. the European Union, there a number of key lessons we should be thinking about. It is a no-brainer to talk about liberalised trade across countries and across regional economies, particularly important for small African countries. Think in the context of SADC, think in the context of Swaziland, Lesotho, small in terms of population, big in terms of size,

A woman sits at the border of Zambia and Botswana awaiting a ferry. According to the AU 2063 agenda, there will be a single African Union passport that permits freedom and shared development among African nations.

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Above: President Yoweri Kaguta Museveni looks through the dummy E- copy of the East African passport. The first African Union E- passports were issued to President of Chad Idriss Déby and Rwandan leader Paul Kagame at the Summit.

geographic size; think Zimbabwe, think Botswana as landlocked countries. In most cases, small African states have not been able to trade at a competitive economic advantage for themselves similar to the Asian experience. What results in economic viability? Look at Singapore, the South Koreans and Taiwan, all of which have figured this out. Many of our small states I would argue, without regional integration are, are economically unviable. It is therefore imperative to integrate at economic level. The second point is a currency union. I would argue that at least for Francophone Africa, which has the CFA, the common currency, and which is underwritten largely by the French Central Bank, albeit a politically sensitive point for many. This results in currency stability, which is all important, especially when we look to encourage a deeper free trading market regime. Looking at other large parts of Africa there is already a currency union called 72 |

the US Dollar. Services, property, even visa costs, everything is priced in US Dollars, even hotel and car hire, effectively making the US Dollar the de facto currency already, indicating lack of inherent faith in domestic currencies. Also, despite any rhetoric towards a deeper currency integration among AU members, I do not see this happening anytime soon. Thirdly, I am highly skeptical and actually opposed to a deeper political integration. What we have seen from the European experiment is that you cannot have free flow movement of people in different welfare systems – and that is the case of southern Europe versus northern Europe and eastern Europe (which is part of the EU). Add to that is the execution and implementation of fiscal responsibility by AU members, with Greece, Portugal now and potentially Spain being good examples of how not to run your economies. Frankly, within the SADC arrangement, it

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has effectively failed with failed economies. Look at the fiscal blowouts in Zimbabwe, Angola, in Mozambique, all of these are three failed states requiring intervention to bail out their economies. I am deeply skeptical of deeper integration initiatives within broader regions, but I do support the South African Department of Trade & Industry’s forging of a free trade regime between the Southern Africa Development Community (SADC) , the East African Community (EAC), which is the most progressive towards regional trad and COMESA, the Common Market for East and Southern Africa.” Some countries have already proceeded to allow African citizens entry without advance visas, as per a report from the African Development Bank that advised that such easing of immigration procedures could result in economic growth. A prime example is Rwanda, which saw a phenomenal 7% GDP increase in 2014 and a 4% tourist revenue jump after announcing that travellers arriving from any


The Kenya-Tanzania border. Tourism can play an enormous role in African development. More tourists would translate to more jobs, more investment opportunities and more money for the continent to embark on capital projects.

Looking at other large parts of Africa, there is already a currency union called the US Dollar. Services, property, even visa costs, everything is priced in US Dollars, even hotel and car hire, effectively making the US Dollar the de facto currency already, indicating lack of inherent faith in domestic currencies. �

African countries could obtain a visa upon arrival. Recently, the Rwandan Minister of Foreign Affairs, Louise Mushikiwabo, indicated that Rwanda is in a position to begin issuing the common passport to all of its citizens, although other AU members would first need to amend their own immigration to accommodate this AU initiative. The Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS) has already been issuing its own common passport for its regional members. It is thought that the restrictions and bureaucracy that currently exist among AU countries

in general is a major obstacle to increasing trade between the member states. In terms of border security, AU countries with less advanced biometric systems may find it challenging to process and ensure the biometric standard of the new secure E-passport. One of the biggest issues that AU members would have to consider is how the interests of their own country will be served or burden if immigration laws are amended to accommodate the E-passport. This, especially in view of the fact that refugees who cross borders to seek refuge in neighbouring countries are a worldwide phenomenon.

The constant flow of East European migrants to the West has been happening for decades in Europe and exascerbated by the ongoing Syrian crisis. The worldwide economic fait accompli of migrant workers and refugees seeking a better life could also happen to the more economically stable countries within Africa – something that African governments would need to consider when accommodating a universal African passport in order to achieve economic growth and future prosperity - a fine balancing act between serving its own sovereign interests and a better life for its citizens.

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BREXIT

On The Cover | The Brexit Effect

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EFFECT ON TOURISM IN AFRICA

Britain’s recent referendum and vote to leave the European Union (EU) has caused wide-spread concern from various sources as to what the implications will be for existing trade agreements and markets worldwide. Historically, Africa has benefitted from the EU in many ways, specifically through Foreign Direct Investment (FDI), but some feel the restrictive trade agreements have impeded potential for growth in Africa. Words: NICOLE LESCHINSKY

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s a result of Brexit, Britain’s trading and investment agreements with the African continent come under focus and the UK’s largest African trading partners, in particular South Africa, Kenya and Nigeria, could possibly see another impact on their financial stability. The UK is South Africa’s seventh largest import and export market with exports to the UK in 2014 totalling R42 billion and imports R35 billion. Analysts predict that South Africa is amongst the African countries that will be worst affected, with the EU as its largest trading partner. Hundreds of existing EU trade agreements may need to be renegotiated by the UK within the next two years, which will disrupt trade and potentially cause a loss of investment into Africa, depending on the strength of the UK’s GDP. Financial analysts are debating how this will impact economies and trade in African

countries and say the full effect remains to be seen. Tourism is one of Africa’s biggest economic contributors, and the most immediate impact from the Brexit outcome is the value of the Pound, which plummeted following the referendum and is at its lowest in 30 years. Global markets shifted as the vote concluded. With the instability of the British currency, UK residents, who contributed to 23.3% of South Africa’s tourists in December 2015, may be hesitant to travel to long-haul destinations such as Africa and the additional uncertainty around travel and health benefits that previously covered their holiday (Source: Stats SA). Statistics list the UK as the biggest international inbound tourism market to South Africa, revealing a total of 18.4% of tourists originating from Britain. The UK has always been favourable towards the weaker Rand and the benefits of travelling to South Africa meant the ability to enjoy

five-star lodges and hotels, but with insecurity looming over UK residents regarding the short- and long-term impact of the separation from Europe, a weaker pound might well motivate some to cancel international (and African) vacations. South Africa may well see a shift of tourists away from an embattled UK and Europe to be replaced by tourists from the East. However, with such a large portion of UK tourists historically travelling to Africa, CEO of the Airlines Association of Southern Africa (AASA), Chris Zweigenthal, voiced his concerns, “With expectations that the British exchange rate will remain at lower levels, UK residents are likely to pull back on international travel. The International Air Transport Association (IATA) is predicting UK passengers could decline by 3% to 5% by 2020 (Source: sabusinessintegrator.com). According to Enver Mally, Chair of Cape Town Tourism, the tourism industry employs about 4.4% of all employed people

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Tourism is one of Africa’s biggest economic contributors, and the most immediate impact from the Brexit outcome is the value of the Pound, which plummeted following the referendum and is at its lowest in 30 years. Below: As Britain steps out of the European Union, there is a question hanging over the three million EU citizens living in the UK: “Now what?” Down Below: According to the Johannesburg Stock Exchange, as the Rand tumbled against the Dollar following Brexit, foreigners bought South African shares at a pace that hasn’t been seen since 2009, buying a net R4.22 billion of the country’s stocks.

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in South Africa, so it is vital to prioritise the sector to create desperately needed jobs and retain economic growth. From Q4 2015 to Q1 2016, unemployment figures in South Africa rose from 24.5% to 26.7% (Source: Stats SA). Tourism contributes to 48 000 jobs and it is projected to grow to 10.5% of the GDP by 2025. It is also worth considering that any further visa and immigration rule changes as a result of Brexit could significantly affect businesses in the hospitality industry both in the UK and South Africa. When discussing the potential effects of Brexit on tourism, South African Tourism Minister Derek Hanekom said in July 2016 that he does not believe that there will be an immediate impact on tourism numbers to South Africa, but the after-effects of Brexit means that the exchange rate will not be as favourable as it was a couple of months ago. “If the British economy is profoundly affected, it will inevitably result in a drop in tourism. But whether it’s a dramatic drop in tourism and whether South Africa will be affected remains to be seen.” The UK is the fourth-biggest destination of South African exports, although it accounted for only 4% of total exports in 2015, 20% of South Africa’s exports are directed to Britain. Of all the African countries, South Africa is the recipient of the largest portion (about 30%) of FDI from the UK. Moody’s rating agency listed that out of all Sub-Saharan Africa (SSA) countries, South Africa is the most exposed to the potential effects of Brexit, although it predicts that FDI and tourism will be worst hit, rather than the credit rating. South Africa relies heavily on capital investment to finance its economy, although the agency anticipates that South Africa should avoid junk status. Senior Financial Economist, Irmgard Erasmus believes that the main effect of Brexit on South Africa will be contained to the forex and financial markets over the short term. (Source: businessessentials.co.za) She said that commodity prices are likely to get hit, which will impact the balance of payments and consumer debt. The Economist was also quoted as saying, “We expect much of the immediate postBrexit impact to manifest as gyrations in the financial markets, while the near-term

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effects on the real economy are likely to be less pronounced; the short-term impact of the vote on East African countries is likely to be only minor.” Other African countries are likely to experience the ripple effect. The UK is the largest exporter of tourists to Kenya. Kenya’s tourism already dipped over recent years due to security risks caused by militant groups. Kenya relies heavily on tourism and it is listed as one of the top safari destinations in the world. The UK only recently lifted its advisory warning for security concerns in Kenya and it is making a slow recovery, rated as B1 stable by Moody’s, but Brexit could be a further setback. The East African Community (EAC) is due to sign an Economic Partnership Agreement (EPA) with the EU in October. The Kenya Flowers Association has concerns that the EPA may not extend easy access to the UK. Moody’s predicted that countries relying on trade via exports will experience reduced demand. Revised EU trade negotiations could negatively impact the Kenyan cut flowers and agricultural export market significantly. Kenya exported 1.3 billion euros worth of products to the EU in 2015. Many other bodies that have already signed EPAs, such as SADC and ECOWAS, will be looking for the agreements to be upheld. Investors will be seeking safe havens in gold and stocks and the Kenyan Shilling may suffer. As a member of the British Commonwealth, Nigeria has strong political and economic ties with Britain and the volume of trade from 2015 was valued at $8.52 billion and projected to reach $25 billion by 2020. Moody’s rated Nigeria as B1 stable, but with Nigeria being Britain’s secondlargest trading partner after South Africa, its economy will feel the impact and Brexit couldn’t have come at a worse time for the Nigerian economy. The drop in oil prices and local production already affected Nigeria’s struggling budget and some Nigerian banks. The UK is Nigeria’s largest source of infrastructure and investment, which could decrease if the UK’s economy suffers. Mauritius is not immune to the Brexit-effect: It too relies heavily on tourism and exports and has close ties to the UK. Moody’s rated Mauritius as Baa1 stable,


The head of the African Union commission, Nkosazana Dlamini-Zuma in a joint meeting with European Union commission president Jean-Claude Juncker in Brussels where the two discussed migration and how to create economic opportunities in the departure countries of EU-bound migrants.

but in 2015, 11% of visiting tourists came from the UK. Mauritian exports to the UK stood at Rs11 billion in 2015, compared to an import of Rs3 billion. Mauritius predominantly exports textiles and garments (Rs 4.9 billion), fish (Rs 2.1 billion) and sugar (Rs 1.1 billion) to the UK, whilst tourism revenue from the UK amounts to Rs 4.8 billion. With the impact on reserves and investments due to the high levels of uncertainty in financial markets, the tourism sector is likely to suffer. However, in 2017, production and export restrictions within Europe will be lifted as part of the Common Agricultural Policy reforms. If the UK leaves the EU, there will be an opportunity to tap the UK market directly in the sugar trade. (Source: businessmag.mu) Egypt is less likely to be affected in comparison to South Africa and Nigeria, although it will feel the effects in its GDP with depreciation of currency and political instability. Egypt has a long history and strong diplomatic ties with the UK, specifically in the political, defence and trade industry. 30% of Egypt’s external trade is

with the EU, and in 2015 it made up $10 billion of the $57.9 billion of Egypt’s imports. (Source: dailynewsegypt.com) The EU is Egypt’s primary trading partner and the free trade agreement that was signed in 2004 between the Egypt-EU Association is likely to be affected by Britain’s exit. The previous ease of trade and access to the EU market that Egypt had as a benefit will likely affect the volume of Egypt’s trade. Tourism is likely to suffer from uncertainty in the political climate. Tourism from the UK brings in roughly 200,000 British tourists a year, but amidst curbing spending and terror fears there is likely going to be a decline. FDI, however, is likely to increase from both the EU and the UK, which currently stands at 41.5%, as Europe seeks to strengthen North African countries to help negate the migrant crisis. There are fears that FDI will decrease in Egypt but it is likely that the migrant crisis will be a priority. According to the Johannesburg Stock Exchange, as the Rand tumbled against the Dollar following Brexit, foreigners bought South African shares at a pace that hasn’t

been seen since 2009, buying a net R4.22 billion of the country’s stocks. William Jackson, senior emerging-markets economist at Capital Economics said, “it’s possible the actual economic impact of Brexit on South Africa may be small." Jeffrey Schultz, an economist at BNP Paribas Securities in Johannesburg added, “Investment into South Africa has seen a turnaround since Brexit.” (fin24.com) It is far too early to predict the outcome of Brexit on trade in Africa. In what will take months and possibly years to come, the effects on the African continent, specifically for trade partners, could be a suppressed demand in trade and most likely reductions in tourism from the UK, particularly if its economy goes into the predicted recession. Brexit could, however, be beneficial to Africa if it has the foresight to prepare carefully articulated and negotiated trade deals with the UK. African countries could take advantage of the potential loss of the European market to the UK and take the opportunity to fill gaps in export trade.

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RWANDAIR REACHING NEW HORIZONS Operating and sustaining a national airline in Africa is chock full of pitfalls and major challenges. There are constant reports of African carriers in financial turmoil. Yet there are notable exceptions, one of them being Rwandair. Words: JO KROMBERG

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his Star Alliance member is the national carrier of Rwanda. It operates domestic and international services to East Africa, Central Africa, West Africa, Southern Africa and the Middle East from its main base at Kigali International Airport in Kigali. The airline began operations on 1 December 2002 as the new national carrier for Rwanda under the name Rwandair Express (with passenger air transportation as the core activity), with

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a concession to carry out airport ground handling as an ancillary activity at Kigali International airport, Kanombe. In March 2009, the airline registered a new trademark "RwandAir Ltd", which is its current operating name. In June 2009, the airline officially re-branded from Rwandair Express to RwandAir, because the new name implies a large, serious airline, while the "Express" in the former name implies a small regional operation. In May 2010, Rene Janata became the Chief Executive Officer, introducing a frequent flyer pro-

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gramme and developing the airline to become a network carrier. It was, however, operating at a loss for a number of years until a major turnaround resulted in much better financial performances year-onyear. Also, at the end of 2014, RwandAir announced that they attained the coveted IATA Operational Safety Audit Certification. With this accolade, the airline joined the elite of global aviation by passing the stringent requirements of a yardstick considered very important by IATA for obvious reasons.


On The Cover | RwandAir

Above: From left to right: John Mirenge, Chief Executive Officer, RwandAir, Her Excellency Edda Mukabagwiza, Rwanda’s High Commissioner to Canada, Sylvain Leclerc, Vice President and General Manager, CRJ Programs, Bombardier Commercial Aircraft and Marc Duchesne, Director, Communications, Bombardier Commercial Aircraft during the ribbon cutting to celebrate the delivery of RwandAir's first CRJ900 NextGen regional jet.

Thembela Dladla, RwandAir country manager for South Africa, says that the airline has made great strides in the past five years. “RwandAir has grown in leaps and bounds in terms of expansion into the continent with current 17 destinations across Africa and the Middle East. RwandAir has also been able expand its

fleet and operate the most efficient new generation equipment for instance the Bombardier Q400, Boeing 737-800 New Generation as well as the latest delivery of our new Airbus A330s,” he says. He believes that what sets Rwandair apart is the airline’s ability to adapt and listen to its customers.

“RwandAir has a unique selling proposition in terms of unmatched service provision both on-board and in terms of other factors such as our On Time Performance, RwandAir also offers very competitive fares which is matched with outstanding service.” He says that they have identified the

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Mike Arcamone, President, Bombardier Commercial Aircraft (on the left) and John Mirenge, Chief Executive Officer, RwandAir during the delivery of the airline's first CRJ900 NextGen regional jet at Bombardier's facility in Mirabel, Québec.

The lack of a continental cooperative aviation policy agreement in Africa, widely known globally as an “open sky” policy, adds to the challenge. According to the World Bank, while Africa is home to 12% of the world’s population, it still accounts for less than 1% of the global air service market.

biggest growth market over the medium term in Africa. “Across the entire network we have increased our market share with positive results in markets such as Southern Africa and Nigeria in particular, but there’s still great room for improvement. Improved service offering from almost all major carriers has resulted in an improved competitive environment, which benefits the passenger in the long run.” He says that one of the biggest challenges facing the airline is economic growth and expansion in the face of constant global economic turmoil. “Like most airlines in the world, RwandAir is very reliant on eco80 |

nomic growth and prosperity, and current economic conditions in some part of the network are posing serious challenges in terms of growth.” Also the fact that profit margins traditionally are very low for airlines in general doesn’t help. “Airline overheads are extremely high due to the obvious high cost of equipment like aircraft, aircraft parts and so on, high specialised labour costs, i.e. salaries for pilots, commercial staff, jet fuel costs, air navigation costs… and all of these costs are to be matched with available seat revenue. You can imagine how complex the formula can be and how easy it is to miss that profit margin,” he says.

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The lack of a continental cooperative aviation policy agreement in Africa, widely known globally as an “open sky” policy, adds to the challenge. According to the World Bank, while Africa is home to 12% of the world’s population, it still accounts for less than 1% of the global air service market. In its study entitled Open skies for Africa: implementing the Yamoussoukro Decision (YD), the Bank cites the continued restriction of air services over many African countries as one of the key contributing factors to Africa’s apparent inability to capture its fair share of global air traffic. Writes James Geldenhuys in an article called Widespread adoption of open skies



RwandAir Business Class

Like most airlines in the world, RwandAir is very reliant on economic growth and prosperity and current economic conditions in some part of the network are posing serious challenges in terms of growth.”

policies still key to Africa’s economic growth: “Even a cursory glance at the growth in market share of the air service market by European and US countries since adopting the YD in 1999 appears to confirm this deduction. The intention behind the YD was primarily to replace bilateral air usage agreements with open and transparent airspace access for the benefit of all stakeholders in the air service market. The vast majority of countries in Europe and America were quick to sign and implement the YD, and have subsequently derived significant benefits ranging from lower barriers to entry and better price structures due to increased competition, to steadily increasing passenger numbers resulting in sustainable growth and profitability for their commercial aviation industries. In contrast, very few African countries have adopted the open skies policies espoused in the YD, and the negative consequence of this has undoubtedly been evidenced in Africa’s inability to grow its share of international and, even, 82 |

intra-continental commercial air traffic… For many countries in Africa, the short-term solution to this problem has simply been to place restrictions on those competitor airlines, typically by limiting their free use of airspace, thereby enforcing a measure of monopolisation by the national carrier. While this restriction of competition may seem like a logical way of securing the sustainability of a national airline, the opposite is true; since a lack of competition almost always results in unfair consumer practices and the eventual collapse of the monopolistic entity.” Despite this, RwandAir seems to be able to overcome these challenges by understanding that they have to be globally competitive with routes and not fall into the trap of this parochial attitude. Thembela says that the airline’s new routes include Mumbai. “With India, there are obvious economic and historical links between the sub-continent and the African continent as well as associated benefits with regard to a bullish

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Indian economy. We also have a new route to Guangzhou in China since China is a major trading partner with most African countries, so it just makes sense.” This is in addition to the 20 global destinations they already fly to including Mombasa, Entebbe, Kilimanjaro, Lusaka, Johannesburg and Dubai. In terms of partnerships, the airline also has codeshare agreements with Air Uganda, Brussels Airlines, Ethiopian Airlines, Turkish Airlines, South African Airways and Proflight Zambia. RwandAir is one of those beautiful phenomena – a successful, large-scale business venture in Africa. The environment in which they operate might be one of the toughest anywhere, but they have the right ingredients – integrity, an emphasis on customer service, hiring the right people, a commitment and passion for excellence and solid, long-term business principles. With such a recipe for success, they can only continue on their growth path and keep on making Africa proud.


TOURISM UPDATE| Uganda’s Online Visa

UGANDA

Uganda president Mr. Yoweri Museveni

INTRODUCES ONLINE VISA APPLICATION Joining the likes of Kenya, Rwanda, Zambia and Zimbabwe the Ugandan Government has introduced the online visa processing system for visitors to the country. Visiting the Pearl of Africa for business or pleasure has never been easier. Choose Uganda as your next holiday destination and experience true African hospitality. Words: MONICA ASHLEY LE-COURE

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ome to the source of the world's longest river (river Nile), the world's remaining Mountain Gorillas, vast and diverse natural wildlife reserves; blessed with tropical, all-year-round summer weather, a diverse cultural heritage of over 50 local tribes, snow caped mountains, natural water rafting spots, vibrant night life. A wealth of unexploited natural resources and a young, educated population. The new system applies to all the categories of visa on offer: the Multiple-Entry,

Diplomatic and Official, Ordinary and East Africa Tourist Visa (Multiple Entry valid for 90 days to Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda) Transit. In a statement issued by the Uganda Tourism Board (UTB), persons intending to visit Uganda on holiday, business, study, visit and medical grounds are required to apply and obtain the visa online. The decision taken on the application would then be sent electronically through the email provided by the applicant. If approved, the approval letter would be sent as an attachment and if rejected, the reason(s) would be stated to the applicant. "Print it out and present it together

with a valid passport/travel document at the port of entry," the statement reads in part. On arrival in Uganda, a printed copy of the letter along with a valid passport /travel document will be asked to be presented. Information about documents required in the online visa application process can be found on the website provided by the tourism board. However, travellers will still be able to get visas on arrival in the country, though they will go through the electronic application process at the port of entry. This will only apply for the next few months, after which all visa applications shall be online.

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RWANDA

EYES MICE FOR TOURISM GROWTH The tourism sector in Rwanda has continued to record impressive growth over the last 5 Years. Rwanda achieved growth of 12%, far above the global average of 3% to 5%. In 2014, the contribution from tourism receipts was 10% and Rwanda wants to grow this to 24% by 2018. In order to accelerate this growth, a new strategy for the sector focusing on the area of meetings, incentives, conferences and events (MICE) has been developed and is being implemented. Words: KRISTIE OMAR

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ccording to the Rwanda Development Board, MICE has been identified as a long term strategy to boost Rwanda’s economy. In 2015, MICE generated an estimated $39 million to Rwanda’s economy after the East African country hosted 27 major conferences and events

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as well as 12 association meetings. Some of the international meetings which were held in Rwanda last year included the 84th Interpol General Assembly with 1,000 delegates, the Transform Africa Summit with 1 500 delegates and the seventh East African Petroleum conference that attracted 700 delegates. The Rwanda Development Board indicates that this year, the country has hosted the

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African Nations Championship that welcomed 15 000 visitors and the World Economic Forum on Africa, which brought 2 500 delegates. In 2014, the Rwandan government established the Rwanda Convention Bureau to fast track the development of the MICE sub-sector. The Bureau serves the interests of Rwanda’s MICE sub-sector stakeholders by offering free impartial advice, guidance


Tourism Update | Rwanda Eyes MICE for Tourism Growth

Above: Some of the international meetings, which were held in Rwanda last year included the 84th Interpol General Assembly with 1,000 delegates, the Transform Africa Summit with 1,500 delegates and the seventh East African Petroleum conference that attracted 700 delegates. Left: A view of the just completed Kigali Conventional Centre from the Kacyiru roundabout. Rwanda had contracted Turkish engineering firm Summa to complete construction of the multimillion Dollar centre.

and support to international event planners and buyers, incentive, association and convention organisers through every stage of planning. While leisure tourism remains a vital part of the national tourism strategy, business tourists have been shown to spend up to three times more than leisure visitors. Rwanda’s share in the international meetings, incentives, conferences and events industry is presently minimal. International Conference and Congress Association’s (ICCA) latest research ranks Rwanda as 21st in Africa. The Rwanda Convention Bureau is a destination marketing arm whose sales and marketing plan is destined to see Rwanda enter Africa’s top 10 by the end of year 2016. With this growth in MICE tourism , tour operators, hotels, restaurants, Professional Conference Organisers (PCO’s) and event managers, -

who form part of the nationwide tourism value chain, will be required to create enhance their product offering to service delegate demands. Rwanda Development Board, Chief Tourism Officer, Belise Kariza says Rwanda’s connectivity and security make the country an attractive place for international conference organisers. She said: “The open visa policy has made it easier for delegates from around the world to fly to our country for MICE activities.” Kariza adds that Rwandan capital city, Kigali, is clean and business friendly, making it a suitable environment for conferences and meetings. Tremendous efforts have been exerted on availing infrastructure and investment in new international meeting, conferencing and accommodation products, the iconic

Kigali Convention Centre and the development of transport links through Kigali International Airport. In addition, Bugesera International Airport, a new world-class airport is planned, which will provide extra capacity for passenger transport and cargo freight. In addition, Rwanda offers soft infrastructure such as biodiversity, city management, peace building and reconciliation as well as gender and health making it a role model for the respective themes. The National MICE strategy is in line with diversifying the current tourism product offering while complimenting existing gorilla tourism, eco-tourism, cultural and community based tourism that are the mainstays of Rwanda’s economy. In recent years, Rwanda has attracted reputable international hotel brands, which include Radisson Blu and Marriott Hotels.

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AIR ZIMBABWE TO RESUME HARARE-LONDON FLIGHTS

Air Zimbabwe plans to resume flights on the Harare-London route this year after a four-year hiatus. Words: FIDELITY MHLANGA/ TAURAI MANGUDHLA

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ir Zimbabwe (AirZim) acting passenger and cargo general manager Christopher Kwenda said the company had initially anticipated to resume plying the lucrative route beginning of July, but had to contend with a later date due to licensing delays after London and the European Union (EU) introduced new aviation licensing requirements. “We had targeted the 1st of July, but now there are new requirements from the UK and the EU. We will know the exact dates as soon as we satisfy those requirements because we also have to start selling the route once we get the green light,” Kwenda said in a telephone interview. AirZim acting CE Edmund Makona said the national flag carrier had already submitted all the necessary paperwork required by British authorities. “The airline has submitted all the necessary paperwork for the route licence as is required by London authorities and is still waiting their approval to commence operations. Once the route licence has been issued, we will then advise the exact date for the flights resumption,” Makona said in emailed responses this week. Air Zim was forced to terminate the route in 2012 and is now negotiating to clear a debt of US$2, 8 million owed to London navigation agency. Makona said all creditors were engaged and arrangements are in place to service any 86 |

outstanding amounts. He said creditors have been forthcoming in terms of payment arrangements. He said flight resumption would depend on whether the licence will be issued. “We will also give adequate lead time to allow for marketing activities,” he said. “Operating equipment and the crew are already in place. Once the route licence has been issued, we will be ready to commence operations.” Makona said the airline plans to employ a robust cost-cutting strategy with a view to avoid plunging into debt again. AirZim in 2014 resumed flights on the Harare-Johannesburg route after the airline cleared its debts with some South African creditors. Two weeks ago, the airline re-introduced flights on the Harare-Dar es Salaam route after a seven year absence, flying return flights on Tuesdays and Saturdays. The airline will be scrambling for market share with fastjet. AirZim is pinning hopes on the growing trade between Tanzania and Zimbabwe where many cross border traders and business travellers frequent the two destinations. It is offering a generous free luggage promotion of 40kg per passenger and a free ticket for every six people travelling together on the new route. Kwenda said the market was so far responding positively to the new route amid growth potential indications. “The new route is picking up, the response is quite encouraging, it will take time to

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achieve the load factors that we would like to have, but it’s quite positive so far,” he said. Speaking at the official launch of the HarareDar es Salaam inaugural flight in Tanzania on June 4, Transport minister Jorum Gumbo said movement between the two countries was based on tourists and traders, hence the need for airlines to put strategies that guarantee sustainable good passenger loads. “The re-launch of AirZim coming to Dar es Salaam is a very important milestone for us as a Zimbabwean nation, and it is important that we connect Africa through Tanzania. “Tanzania has got many attractions that our people in Southern Africa would like to visit, the Zanzibar Island, the Mount Kilimanjalo and so forth. However, we also have the wonders of the wold like the mighty Victoria Falls and also the Great Zimbabwe monument in Zimbabwe, which should assist us as Africans to promote tourism in the region,” Gumbo said. The Parliamentary Portfolio Committee on Transport and Infrastructure, which has been critical of AirZim, welcomed the new route, saying the development speaks to four key issues, continental intervention, industrialisation strategy, beneficiation and value addition as well as formalisation of the informal sector. “One does not stifle the informal sector and hope to formalise it. There is a lot of buying of second hand vehicles and the informal trade that is going on between the two countries,” Portfolio committee chairperson Dextor Nduna said at the launch.



CRANES, PEOPLE

AND WETLANDS IN RWANDA

As I look at the Africa programme and where the priorities are for crane conservation on the continent, I do at times feel overwhelmed. Within Africa, we have four of the world’s most threatened crane species (Blue, Grey Crowned, Black Crowned and Wattled Cranes), each requiring significant effort to secure their future. Words: JANIS THERON

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owever, I believe strongly that the African Crane Conservation Programme (ACCP) team is developing powerfully and know that over the next few years, we will increase the number of projects and initiatives we have in Africa – one step at a time. - (Kerryn Morrison) Have you ever been lucky enough to see Blue Cranes flying overhead, calling in their guttural language? Or have you ever had the fortune to see a pair of Grey Crowned Cranes stalking regally through a wetland, their blue eyes alert and golden crowns like torches? Seeing a huge Wattled Crane with a chick is akin to seeing an endangered Rhino with a calf. “These elegant birds, in their stature, grace, and beauty, their wild fierce temperament, are striking metaphors for the vanishing wilderness of our once bountiful earth,” writes author and naturalist, Peter Matthiessen in his book The Birds of Heaven. He notes also that cranes have a special purpose in nature, acting as indicator species for the health of wetlands, the air and the soil wherein they live. Protecting cranes actually “sustains the astonishing variety of forms in nature (with their habitats and ecosystems) known as biodiversity”. This article looks at the relationships between cranes and communities in Rwanda, 88 |

Zambia and South Africa and how crane conservationists are successfully working with both. Wetland Conservation in Africa When he travelled the world to discover all 15 crane species, Matthiessen met up with Kerryn Morrison, head of the African Crane Conservation Programme (ACCP), under the International Crane Foundation / Endangered Wildlife Trust (ICF/EWT) Partnership. With her help, he discovered that Southern Africa is the only place on earth where the Grey Crowned Crane, the Blue Crane and the Wattled Crane occur together. All cranes depend on wetlands for their survival. Osiman Mabehachi, Community Projects Coordinator for the ICF/EWT Partnership, notes that the mind-sets of many individuals and organisations have not shifted, despite the fact that drying of wetlands is one of the projected long-term impacts of climate change. This is “partly because conservationists have not succeeded in making wetland conservation an emotive issue that spurs people to act,” he says. It is pertinent then that Grey Crowned Cranes, the iconic, charismatic flagships for Southern and East Africa’s grasslands and wetlands, have undergone a long-term large-scale population decline of up to 80% over the past 45 years. Rwanda: Rugezi Marsh Hotspot Mabehachi often journeys to Rwanda’s

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Rugezi Marsh, in the Northern Province of Rwanda, to monitor Grey Crowned Cranes resident there. This marsh is not only one of the biggest wetlands in Rwanda, covering an area of nearly, 7 000 ha, but it is also the most critical site for the Grey-Crowned Crane in the East African country. This vital natural resource sustains the livelihoods of local communities and is also of national importance because the wetland water flows into the Bulera and Ruhondo Lakes. Hydro-electric schemes linked to these two reservoirs supply electricity, meeting more than a third of the country’s electricity demand. This tangible benefit can always justify the need for long-term conservation of the wetland. The catchment of Rugezi, like most of Rwanda, however, is completely converted to subsistence agriculture and Eucalyptus plantations. Loss of top soil erodes down the steep slopes into Rugezi wetland. While the government has initiated a buffer zone of trees around the wetland to curb encroachment into the wetland by farmers, this does not mean that the wetland or the cranes are secure. Zambia: Kafue Flats Flying over the extensive and breath-taking Kafue Flats in Zambia for 29 intensive hours surveying Wattled Cranes is not for the faint-hearted. Last year, the ACCP discovered that this region is home to more than 2,300 Wattled Cranes, the largest population of such wetland birds in the world!


Nature & Wildlife | Crane Conservation

Packed tightly into a tiny Cessna 208 for five days, the ACCP team recorded evidence of human involvement in the park - including settlements, cultivation, fishing camps, cattle posts, incidents of burning, logging, poaching, and charcoal production, plus counts of all livestock, especially cattle, which numbered in the hundreds of thousands. After this first intensive survey in 10 years, Park Warden, Wilfred Moong was particularly keen to use these results actively on the ground. At least the ACCP now knows that the Kafue Flats is the most important wetland for Wattled Cranes, home to more than 25% of the estimate 8,000 Wattled Cranes in Africa. South Africa: Chrissiesmere The ACCP has found that crane projects that integrate conservation and community development have diverse socioeconomic, institutional and environmental impacts. While the socioeconomic and institutional impacts may become visible during the project period, the environmental outcomes may not be

fully realised within short project timeframes. “Our work in Chrissiesmeer has been primarily geared towards engaging local stakeholders so that they can appreciate the importance of conserving wetlands, grasslands and associated biodiversity,” says Mabhachi. The project aimed to create platforms for collective action in solving environmental problems while promoting technical options for improving livelihoods. This included introducing integrated waste management systems to reduce pollution, improving environmental knowledge and changing environmental behaviours among rural and township communities. “Our vegetable gardening interventions are already making the community realise that they can reduce food expenses if they adopt backyard gardening,” says Mabhachi. “We discovered that there are individuals who already possessed skills and if provided with the relevant support could impart new skills to other community members (e.g. individuals already

trained in woodwork and tailoring).” African Crane Partnerships Progress is being made – so that cranes and people benefit in the long term. The robust 10-year partnership between the International Crane Foundation (ICF) and the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) aims to save cranes from extinction. Today, reputable organisations, community champions, individual lobbyists, researchers and other supporters have grown to love cranes in Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, South Africa, Tanzania, Zambia and Zimbabwe. The world over, conservation is now about persuading people to adopt pro-environmental conservation attitudes and behaviour, lobbying for support from authorities and partners and promoting the spirit of stewardship by natural resource users. Coupled with this has been a gradual shift in conservation methodologies that has seen environmental organisations working towards integrating socio-economic development with biodiversity conservation. (Osiman Mabehachi)

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Machine On Wheels | 2017 Honda Accord Hybrid

HONDA ACCORD HYBRID

THE 2017

The 2017 Accord hybrid is a key step in Honda’s move to electrified vehicles with an expanding range of hybrids, plug-in hybrids, fuel-cell models, and battery electrics. By 2030, Honda hopes two-thirds of its global fleet will be electrified, come what may in fuel prices, government edicts, and customer whims. Words: DON SHERMAN

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oward that end, the new 2017 Accord hybrid embodies comprehensive improvements over the previous Accord hybrid that Honda built and sold here in modest volumes in 2014 and 2015. First of all, the new hybrid benefits from updates bestowed on the Accord range for 2016, in which the cars were facelifted, lightened, and structurally stiffened. Additionally, hybrid production was moved from Ohio to Japan to expand the global supply and more than double the number of cars available. To create the new, better hybrid, Honda engineers gave it a more powerful 2.0-liter Atkinson-cycle four-cylinder engine; two smaller, lighter and more energetic AC

motor/generators; a more compact lithium-ion battery pack and electronic control unit; significant aerodynamic improvements and reduced friction; and a wealth of driver assists and creature comforts. The one major carryover is the basic powertrain arrangement, what Honda calls a two-motor hybrid-drive system combines combustion and electric-energy conversion with fixed drive ratios. Hits and Misses After a few hundred miles of driving, here’s our assessment: The new Accord hybrid is quiet and comfortable for drivers and passengers alike, and seat-of-the-pants acceleration and braking performances should exceed most expectations. Now for the near misses: Although its EPA estimates are the best of the mid-size hybrid sedans,

the new Honda doesn’t top the Toyota Prius’ figures or the 2014–2015 Accord hybrid’s city mpg rating. And while other members of the Accord family equipped with conventional powertrains show true sports-sedan verve, this hybrid wanders off in the science-project direction too often to impress those with enthusiasm for driving. From a stoplight, it literally motors off with smooth, silent electric torque answering the tap of the accelerator pedal. With gentle pressure and sufficient charge in the 1.3-kWh battery pack, you can sneak past 60 mph in EV Drive mode for a mile or so without rousing the engine. When the engine does fire, it spins a generator to provide AC current to the always-engaged electric motor, while concurrently sending juice to the battery pack. This is the Hybrid

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Drive mode. Lift off the accelerator, and the drive motor becomes a generator to convert unwanted momentum to electricity for recharging the battery. In the third mode, Engine Drive, a computer gently engages a wet clutch, connecting the engine to the front axle’s differential. In the interests of efficiency, no battery charging is allowed here; the engine runs quietly at low rpm with its computer-operated throttle barely open. On our drive through wine country, we found this third mode elusive and impossible to maintain for more than a few seconds at 65 to 70 mph. We suspect it exists mainly for use in EPA highway-mileage tests. In each of the drive modes described above, the Accord hybrid is your best 92 |

friend. Unfortunately, its mean side emerges when you smack the accelerator to the floor at any speed. After a momentary delay, the engine roars in anger to accelerate the car with a jolt of juice zapped from the generator to the drive motor. This is annoying-CVT disorder, where engine rpm and car speed are totally out of sync. There are other driving behaviours that diminish the Accord hybrid’s desirability. The electrically assisted steering, while nicely weighted and responsive off-centre, provides no hint of road feel or feedback. The Michelin Energy Saver all-season tires would seem to contain Teflon in their tread compound, so readily do they slide when challenged with modest cornering loads; we discovered crippling understeer when

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negotiating traffic circles and early-onset intervention from the stability-control system in simulated lane-change moves. Although you seldom need to tap the brake pedal when the shift lever is moved to the B (maximum energy regeneration—i.e., engine braking) position, we found the left pedal lacking in feedback midway through its travel and the brakes susceptible to abrupt ABS intrusion. The Big 4-8? Beyond the fact that this is more the Accord for the gadget geek than the keen driver, the hybrid missed its 50-mpg mileage bogey, with ratings of 49 mpg city, 47 mpg highway, and 48 mpg combined. Chief engineer Koji Ninomiya cites more


stringent EPA regulations as the cause. He’s correct that small adjustments have been made to more accurately align the laboratory test results and window-sticker figures with real-world driving. And last year, the EPA warned manufacturers that existing coast-down test procedures would be enforced to the letter. In the greater scheme of things, 1 or 2 mpg doesn’t matter, and this latest Accord has improved its highway fuel-economy rating by 2 mpg. It also betters all mid-size competitors except the Toyota Prius, including the new Chevrolet Malibu hybrid, which is rated at 47/46/46 mpg city/highway/com-

bined. But it’s the principle, Honda missing a crucial goal, that irks us. This is Toyota finishing second at Le Mans five times. We don’t like to think that the Honda that moved to America to manufacture highquality Accords in volume for world consumption would ever have let this Accord hybrid leave the lab until it exceeded every target with room to spare. Consumers also will appreciate the handsome, but low-key exterior design, the roomy interior, and the wood-like plastic dash trim. The smaller battery pack compared with the previous Accord hybrid increases trunk space from 13 to 14 cubic

feet, though unfortunately the rear seatbacks don’t fold, and no pass-through is provided. Apple CarPlay and Android Auto connectivity are on board. The roster of electronic driver aids now includes adaptive cruise control, lane-keeping assist, and automated emergency braking. Phase two of Honda’s green initiative begins this fall with a fuel-cell vehicle, followed by a plug-in hybrid early next year and a pure electric for 2018, all wearing the Clarity nameplate. Let’s hope that these green machines don’t totally abandon Honda’s sporty-sedan heritage in their quest for maximum efficiency.

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Back Seat MY BELOVED

JOHANNESBURG

Words: KRISTIE OMAR

Johannesburg is a city that elicits strong opinions from people when mentioned, whether they've been there or not. There is a wealth of perception available to make even the most experienced traveller view the destination with caution. I hadn't crossed the border into outright fearfulness, but I was certainly wary of what a city like this had to offer the traveller.

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ere I was, with bolstered confidence about the endeavour of facing this city just by having co-pilot Chloe with me, driving to the outskirts of the city. We would be staying in Observatory, one of the suburbs, in a converted “Mafia Mansion” now called Brown Sugar Backpackers hostel. The toughest part of getting to our accommodation was the impossibly steep approach to the gate of the hostel... Where you had to stop... And then hill start... And immediately turn right. Ok, I may have stalled the car a couple of times, but Chloe was a good sport and didn't tease me about it. I felt I really needed to take this weekend and relax a bit, after a relentless couple of weeks of game driving, distance driving and generally busy days. The one thing I had planned to see, however, was the Apartheid Museum. It was widely recommended by other travellers who, nonetheless, warned of its dense exhibits and sombre mood. Still, it was something I felt strongly compelled to go and see. I had been very young when much of the tumultuous ending to apartheid took place. My first impressions of the country were things that I had learnt from celebrities who praised Nelson Mandela and a country trying to move beyond a horrific history of oppression. Chloe, a girl we'd met at the hostel and I drove across the city to the museum, which sits opposite a Disney-like theme park, a fact that struck me as slightly odd. We spent hours pouring through the information and exhibits. It was powerful, but not necessarily depressing. We were lucky to see a new Nelson Mandela exhibit in honour of the well-known and respected

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leader who had died a few years ago. The exhibit encompassed his life from childhood to presidency and presented interesting insight into lesser known parts of his personal history. The museum itself examined the history of South Africa from its arriving colonists to the first truly general elections of 1994, which allowed people of all races to vote, and beyond to the ongoing struggle to repair a country after decades of human rights atrocities. Going through the exhibits highlighted my own struggle with South Africa. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely loved it there. But there is no escaping a past that only changed dramatically 22 years ago. Affluent areas of Johannesburg where people (mostly white) live behind high walls with gated entrances and security fences are mere miles from Soweto, one of (if not the) largest slum in Africa. While Soweto also has millionaire residences and hundreds of middle-class homes, there are still the thousands of shacks where the poorest of the poor dwell. This can also be found in all the other cities of the country. For example, on the one side there is Cape Town's stunning coastline and areas like Bishops Court, Constantia, Camps Bay, and the large modern and expensive homes looking like something from Orange County, and then there is Khayelitsha, a sprawling township of mostly tin-roofed shanty homes housing roughly 400,000 people (though many say that estimate is extremely low). It’s a striking dichotomy and one, which doesn't settle well in my conscience. While it’s no longer on laws leading to a racially segregated basis, socio-economic divides are starkly visible. Still, many of the South Africans I met are fiercely proud of their country. They do not shy away from their troubled history; rather praise how far they have come. Hollywood made a movie about the unifying moment the country experi-

www.nomadafricamag.com | ...Celebrating the world’s richest continent | Issue 7

enced when it won the Rugby World Cup, but according to the locals, this is not merely a trite story from their past. That cohesive pride is still a moment many recall with deep honour. It is easy to forget that the end of apartheid was only just over 20 years ago and those historic elections took place. Many are working tirelessly to heal the wounds of the past, but it will inevitably take time and continuous effort for years to come. Despite the general prejudices I had held of the city, I didn't experience any terrifying moments in Johannesburg. I may have sensed a palpable tension, but that can be chalked up to the heightened awareness from persistent stories of warning. The most uncomfortable I felt was amongst the fortress-like wealthy areas, which impressed upon you that these people must fear crime. I wasn't in the city for very long, I cannot pretend to have a deep understanding of its complexities. However, I feel its reputation, while not completely unfounded, is perhaps overblown. I spent the rest of the weekend in the Johannesburg hostel relaxing (and by relaxing, I mean furiously trying to finish my taxes with questionable Wi-Fi and a website bogged down by the Fort Knox of security systems). Monday came, and it was time to leave. Leave the city, the country and the continent. The continent that had felt like home for over 2 months. A place which, for some inexplicable reason, I am heartbroken to leave. I felt at that moment like I could quite easily forget about the rest of my travels and head for all the other parts of Africa I want to see - Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Zambia, Malawi, Rwanda, Uganda.... The list goes on. There is so much more to see. I boarded that plane out of OR Tambo airport with one certainty in my heart - I will be back. Somehow, somewhere in my travels... Africa stole my heart. It need not be stolen, though, I give it gladly.




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