Niigata Noise Winter 2018 Issue
Ski Niigata!
Find The Slope For You!
En Garde!
The Three Musketeers AJET Charity Musical
Credits Editor-In-Chief Samantha Wolfe Assistant Editors Robert Burns Jenny Stein Design And Layouts Robert Burns Jenny Stein Samantha Wolfe
Article Contributors Robert Burns Sam Haley Matthew Headland Jessica Ing Angela Marie Moore Eli Pappas Jenny Stein Jordanne Vanessa Christofer Weast Samantha Wolfe Photo Contributors Francesca Abbondanza-Bergeron Andrew Biesemeyer Robert Burns Korina Kozakevich (Burns) Will Norton Jenny Stein Samantha Wolfe
All article images have been provided by either the article’s author or Niigata Noise photo contributors, unless otherwise stated.
Contents Editorials And Interviews 4 Letter From The Editor 6 Niigata AJET Charity Musical 8 Interview - Yoshiko Hara 10 Culture 12 Uesugi Kenshin 14 Sake - Connect Brewing Experience 20 Travel 24 Ski Niigata 26 Sendai 32 Reviews 38 Restaurant Review - AMG Kitchen 40 CafĂŠ Crawler 44 Creative 46 Art Submission 48 Short Story - Hatsumode Magic 50 Winter Haikus 54
Editorials And Interviews
Photo Credit to Andrew Biesemeyer
Letter From The Editor
Dear Readers, Have you become stuck in your home because of the brutal winter that has hit Niigata? Have you lost the will to move from underneath your kotatsu? Well fear not! We are all in the same boat! And while you are immobile, in your kotatsu, reaching for that mikan that’s right within your reach, you should read Niigata Noise! Winter! We have great articles for you this issue. Find the best places to go skiing in Niigata. See the AJET Musical, the Three Musketeers. Why not travel to Sendai? Discover an ancient Japanese craft, learn more about our local samurai Uesugi Kenshin, or go to a café or two that offer amazing treats. So don’t let winter get you down! Niigata Noise is here to help! So go on, take a read! I see snowflakes dance Cold sparkles freely falling The lonely sun hides
Samantha Wolfe Editor-in-Chief Niigata Noise
Niigata AJET Charity Musical 2018
The Three Musketeers Coming up this February and March in a town near you is this year’s Niigata AJET Charity Musical – The Three Musketeers! The story follows a high school in Japan as new transfer student D’Artagnan attempts to join the school’s most prestigious after-school club: the Musketeers’ Club. However, all is not well and there only seems to be three Musketeers left! What could be going on…? So, what is Niigata AJET Charity Musical? Every year, a small volunteer group of JET participants get together to put on a comedy musical right here in our prefecture. Our main goals are to raise money for charity and get involved in our local community. It’s a fun time for us performers and crew, but also a great chance to give back to our prefecture and allow those who are interested in English and foreign countries to experience a little bit of our culture, too.
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We create everything ourselves, from writing the script for the show to making our own props, sets and costumes! By doing this, we can keep our costs low so we can make as much money as possible for our given charity that year. This year our cast of 12 JETs will be performing “The Three Musketeers” in 6 locations: Joetsu, Tokamachi, Sanjo, Ojiya, Niigata City and Nagaoka. Please come and support our cast at any shows you can attend! Entry is completely free but donations are very, very much appreciated. We will be donating money raised from the show to Niigata’s chapter of the Japan Red Cross, who work hard to provide humanitarian care for people in our very own Niigata Prefecture. So, how can you help? To start, come along to any of our shows and donate as much as you can! Also you could help advertise our shows to
your local community by putting up posters in your schools, community halls or even outside your house. Ask a local cast member for posters for your area! The show will have Japanese narration in-between scenes so even people with little to no English ability can enjoy the performance. Finally, just enjoy the show! We’ve all been working very hard to make this a funny, entertaining show for everyone and we can’t wait for you all to see it. If you want to follow our progress, consider liking our Facebook page at https://www.facebook. com/niigatacharitymusical/. We’re looking forward to seeing you! Samantha Haley “The Three Musketeers” Musical Director
Interview with 5th Generation Caster
Yoshiko Hara
By Jordanne Vanessa
Hidden within the hills of Kashiwazaki resides a local treasure of Japan, 5th generation casters whose tradition has been continued to this day from the Edo period. They are recognized as an intangible asset of Niigata Prefecture. Their copper pieces are made using The Traditional Lost Wax method and Hanshidou. Hanshidou is the blonde speckled purplered pattern on the copper pieces. They come up after being reheated using high quality coal fire. For this to happen, the process of heating them and pulling them out at the right time before they melt down is crucial. This technique is said to have first been introduced in Okubu, Kashiwazaki City during the 14th Century. It was through dinner with a mutual friend that I had met Yoshiko Hara. She and her husband, Satoshi Hara, are two of the remaining casters with the ability to do this unique craftsman casting technique in Japan. I was immediately captivated not only by the beauty of the name plate featured on the host’s home, which she had made, but also her modesty and poise. I wanted to know her purpose
for continuing this part of Japanese culture so immediately decided to arrange an interview. Why do you love making these pieces? We love our job, because we have never completed a perfect work. Our work has been closely tied to nature since ancient times. We are proud that we have succeeded with the wisdom and traditions of our ancient people.
Are there any major changes with your current method of making these pieces and the traditional style you have learned? Yes, we have continued to improve our skill. We have skills that we acquired from our predecessors and also skills that we have obtained after repeated trial and error on new designs. What made you continue this traditional art after all this time and who will be your successor? Satoshi continues this work because this is his birthplace. Casting is his profession and we think it is important to pass it to the next generation as it is precious culture. As for the next successor? We’re not yet sure. We will pass our skills with our culture and living to the next generation, however our children will be able to do our craft. For those who are interested, what would you say are the top three skills needed to be successful as a caster with this technique? The ability to continue until you succeed. I have failed many times because the casting technique is profound. Yet, we know that failure is a hint for the next success. For example, the comparison of the temperature of the metal and the molding is very important in casting. The success of casting has a great influence on the latter processes. We have learned that we must have a spirit of inquiry and modesty.
What item do you like to make the most? We love all our items. I especially love making accessories that reflect living things in the natural world. I started casting at 15 years old and the first piece I made was a bronze pendant for myself. Satoshi likes to make simple shaped pieces so that it expresses the beauty of Hanshidou. For foreigners and locals in Japan, what would you like to share with them about your art? This is a splendid question! Japanese people have believed that gods dwell in everything within the natural world since ancient times. A storm, a tree, a mountain. You and I are the same. Everyone is a god too. The spirit makes us gentle and happy. It also makes the world peaceful. If we could share that spirit by our pieces, we are very happy. For further details on the history, location and in-depth process of making these pieces, please check out their website www.imoji-souemon.com/
Culture
Photo Credit to Robert Burns
Uesugi Kenshin
Who is that Mys
F
rom my Japanese Monsters class in college (yes, I really did take a class on Japanese monsters), I remember one story my professor told us that stuck in my mind. Oda Nobunaga sent a ninja assassin to kill his enemy, and the ninja did so by waiting in the toilet and stabbing the guy. My classmates and I had a sheer look of horror, feeling sympathy for the man, and I thought to myself, “poor dude, that’s a horrible way to go!” Fast forward to my days as an ALT, and after
doing some research into Niigata Prefecture I happened upon this legend once again. And to my surprise, that “poor dude” was none other than Uesugi Kenshin, the Dragon of Echigo and God of War. So, he wasn’t really murdered in the toilet. That was just a rumor either created by his enemies or sometime later during the Edo period. But that made me more curious about who this Uesugi Kenshin was. Trying to Wikipedia the guy was very difficult, as
sterious Hooded Man? By Samantha Wolfe
was trying to find information online about him in English. So I had to look for the information in Japanese by using a very sloppy Google translation and annoying my Japanese coworkers for help. The majority of the articles talk about his military prowess. He was a genius military tactician and, from what I read, won about 95% of his battles. Though he is mostly known for his almost perfect battle statistics, he was also a great politician and economist.
Though his stronghold was in Joetsu, even places as far away as Niigata City flourished under his reign. But he is often associated with his rival Takeda Shingen. Shingen and Kenshin fought five times in Kawanakajima, located in Nagano Prefecture, and had great respect for each other. When an enemy of Shingen blocked salt exports to his territory, Kenshin sent him salt because he hated the use of such dirty tactics in war. And after Shingen’s death, Kenshin shed some tears for his rival.
After Shingen came Oda Nobunaga, who Kenshin sent packing after a skirmish. This left a bad taste in Nobunaga’s mouth and he was unable to move forward with his ambition. Kenshin was Nobunaga’s biggest threat. And when Kenshin died, Nobunaga rejoiced, exclaiming that there was no one left to stop him from conquering all of Japan. Though he was eventually stabbed in the back by one of his own men, but that’s a different story entirely. The battles are interesting and all, but what I wanted to know is what kind of person was Uesugi Kenshin? Was he really a generous guy? Why didn’t he have a girlfriend? Was he a woman? And why the hood? To start off, I asked my coworkers about their image of Uesugi Kenshin. Many of them said he was generous, serious, manly, the hero of Niigata, a video game character, Gackt, he liked boys, and was good with horses…maybe. Yeah, I received many responses. The horse thing came up several times. I eventually asked a coworker who is a Japanese history teacher what he knew about Kenshin. He explained that Kenshin was a generous man with a great sense of duty. But apparently he did have occasional mood swings and fits of depression. My coworker said that while Nobunaga was easy to understand, Kenshin was not. Kenshin was usually a calm person, but he could be short tempered. His vassals weren’t sure what he would do when he was angered. He even slapped an important official with his fan when insulted. And he got away with it, probably because they didn’t want to fight a man dubbed the God of War.
When I asked about the whole girlfriend/boyfriend business, my coworker explained that Kenshin had studied Buddhism from the age of seven when he was brought to Rinsenji temple in Joetsu, and eventually became a hard core monk...which explains his hooded appearance in artwork. While this never stopped other samurai…or monks from having wives or lovers, Kenshin was more interested in protecting his country. He dedicated himself to worshipping Bishamonten, the God of War, and making Echigo (the old name of Niigata Prefecture) safe and prosperous. If he had taken a wife and had children then he would have had to worry about them too, not allowing himself to solely focus on his duty to his territory. You never know what an enemy, or even your own family
may try to do to take advantage of you, so instead Kenshin decided not to have a family of his own and to concentrate on the people of Echigo. The rumors that he liked men or was a woman arose in the Edo period because of his lack of interest in women. From my “research” there were rumors that he may have fallen in love with an enemy’s daughter or maid in his household, but since both were forbidden he likely thought love wasn’t worth pursuing. And he was a mama’s boy. Kenshin held great respect and adoration for his mother and his older sister. My coworker even said that he loved his sister very dearly, so it may have been that there were no women to live up to Kenshin’s expectations, breaking the hearts of many Sengoku ladies.
Meow Meow Japanese History
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ohmon.net
Sengoku Night Blood
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You’re probably wondering why people think he was a woman. Well after doing some botchy research, according to ancient texts he was a few inches shorter than other samurai and had no facial hair (for shame!) and every month he would complain of stomach pains… But he wasn’t the healthiest dude either. Kenshin was a heavy drinker and very frugal with his food (often only eating umeboshi and miso every day). When time for battle came, he would worship and pray to Bishamonten by having a huge bash with an extravagant meal... probably not the best idea to have a sudden diet change out of the blue. And he fought a lot. However, I also read that his “stomach aches” may have been a serious symptom of laughter. Yes, apparently Kenshin wrote he busted a gut while laughing too much. He may have been one of the first people in Japan to essentially write “lol” in his letters. Aside from his stomach problems, he could also recite the whole tale of Genji (which he adored), wrote poetry, and played the biwa. But honestly, a lot of Sengoku warlords had artistic pursuits. For example Date Masamune liked fashion, cooking, and designing gardens, Oda Nobunaga held tea parties, and Toyotomi Hideyoshi enjoyed Noh plays and cherry blossom viewing. If you didn’t have one of these hobbies, you weren’t manly. So there is little evidence to support that Kenshin was a woman.
Photo Credit to The Mainichi Newspaper
All-in-all Kenshin is an interesting individual who still leaves a mysterious allure. He was even portrayed by the stylish heart-throb Gackt. I haven’t seen the drama yet, but from what I’ve heard, it’s a must see. He has been depicted in many video games as a man or a woman. You can even date him if you want in some Japanese otome love games, though they did ikemen him up. Oh yes, there is more than one. And if you want to see his cute cat form, you should check out Meow Meow Japanese History; I promise, this is the best version of Japanese history I have ever seen...it has cats! There may not be a lot of information about him but that’s not to say that Kenshin wasn’t an amazing person. I hope you learned something about our Dragon of Echigo. The hero of Niigata. The hooded man who was good with horses.
Ikemen Sengoku ©CYBIRD
Connect Brewing Experience By Matthew Headland I remember the first time I went to Kimi no I. Walking the streets of Arai, in Myoko, the deep chocolatey brown exterior and stoned walkway in front caught my attention. Looking closer I saw those layered roof tiles common on traditional Japanese houses that have grown perfectly crooked with age. In front of the sliding, slightly warped window doors, under a large awning that stretches the length of the building, hangs a bushel of cedar sprigs, perfectly circular. At that time, I was overwhelmed with a curiosity of what this place was. Little did I know that about 6 years later, I’d be making sake here. “That bushel of pine branches is a called a sugidama.” Explains Mr. Tanaka, the brother of the head of the family. His family run brewery celebrated 175 years of brewing last year. “It’s synonymous with sake breweries and there’s a good chance that if you see one hung outside, they’re selling or making sake inside.” My mind is fresh and his words have extra weight. This is because we’re on a break, between an intense weekend of rice hauling, brew mixing, and study. Me and about a dozen and a half others are here to make sake. We arrived the day before, early in the morning and were greeted by Mr. Hayatsu, the brew master here. It’s winter and the air is chilled. He leads us through the back entrance. Putting his weight into it, he jerks open a thick, heavy door. It rumbles open and we go inside. There’s one room heated, just for us. Today, we become brewers. This is my third year doing this experience and looking at first timers I can see the excitement—as well as the nervousness and apprehension—I felt my first time. We get on our happi coats, and drink tea to stay warm while we wait for everyone else to arrive. Once everyone is here, we check that we have our indoor shoes and hairnets. I’ve got small, rubber slippers on that are about 2 sizes too small
for me because I wasn’t adult enough to remember my indoor shoes. Dangit. I’m pretty confident in my ability to walk and lightly jog with them, but stairs are going to be an issue. They have this dandy habit of falling off the moment you try and go up stairs. Yosh! Mr. Hayatsu gives us the signal and we follow him down the corridor. Sake brewers1 are strewn throughout a large open area. They’re all wearing short white coats, white hats and rubber boots or slippers. They all seem to be holding different tools. Some are holding buckets made out of wood—larger, longer version of something you’d see at an onsen. One is holding a shovel and other a large mallet. In the centre is a large circular vessel with steam billowing out of it. The steam escapes through a wooden chimney-like opening in the roof. Looking up you can see where all the steam is escaping. “Be careful!” A brewer calls out. I’ve gotten too close to giant steamer which is now scalding to the touch. This massive rice cooker is called a koshiki. On the top, layers of rice are placed in nets one layer after another. Below is a compartment of water, heated to boiling point by huge flames. I back away slowly, bumping into another person. Even as a seasoned veteran, I have to remember to be careful. This place is not my usual habitat. After a while, there’s scuttling back and forth and the brewers seem to be getting in position for something. The brewer with the mallet comes to the front and gestures for everyone to back up. With a few shouts he lifts the mallet up and brings it down on a spike stuck to the side of the koshiki. Hot steam explodes out the side filling the room. I could feel the moisture on my face. One by one, the brewers carrying wooden buckets2 line up. One brewer now stands inside the koshiki and shovels steamed rice into the buckets. Loaded onto one shoulder the rice looks light, fluffy, and easy to handle as brewers hoist it up on one shoulder and use one hand to stabilize it as they hurry it down a corridor. Once sake rice is steamed, it’s carried to a room where it’s cooled. Today, the cooling would happen on the third floor in a frigid room on the other side of the building where our sake mash starter was being kept.
Generally speaking, sake fermentation starts with a mash starter, which is a combination of rice, water, and rice inoculated with koji bacteria. These three ingredients, if left alone, can produce amazake—a sweet, ricey superfood drink great for digestion and chock full of vitamins and minerals. To make sake however, you’ve got to have yeast.
How Fermentation Works If you’re like me and can’t remember what you had for breakfast, let alone high school chemistry, this info bubble is for you. The alcohol in sake (or wine and beer for that matter) is created by the conversion of sugars into ethyl alcohol by yeast. Yeast LOVES sugar and will fart CO2 and excrete alcohol from now until forever if given the chance. Tricky thing about making sake is that rice doesn’t have any natural sugars and is made up of mostly starch, with some fats and minerals. We could just add sugar, but that is a barbarian’s fix, so what do we do? This is where koji comes in. Koji is this neat little bacteria culture that LOVES starch and will eat the starch in the rice and create sugars! Voilà! The starch in the rice is consumed by the koji bacteria and this creates sugars. But if you want to make sake, you’ll have to add yeast.3 By doing so, the yeast eats the sugars created by the koji to create CO2 and alcohol. Starch is converted into sugar, and sugar is converted to alcohol and CO2. This process is called Multiple Parallel Fermentation and is part of what makes sake so unique.
Old school methods of sake brewing called Kimoto or Yamahai may not add yeast but rather use a method that cultivates the natural yeast in that brewery. 3
kurabito（蔵人）in Japanese. Used for makers of sake or soy sauce. 2 oke (桶) in Japanese. 1
Massive green tanks line the walls and there’s just enough space for two people to pass each other. For the brewer carrying the bucket of rice though, he is given full right-of-way. As I follow him down the corridor other brewers hug the tank walls to make space for him. Before I could follow him any further, one of the brewers signal me to return as everyone needs my help. I return to the main room where I find other participants are now holding buckets and getting rice loaded as well. As I line up, a smaller stout man gestures for me to put the bucket by the hole in the koshiki where steam is billowing out. “Heat up the wood here and the rice won’t stick as much.” His face is stern but his voice is soft and kind. I heat up the bucket as he suggested. “What’s this called?” I ask, holding up the wooden bucket. “お・ け”. He says. “Oke?” That’s easy to remember! It was my turn so I put my bucket in place and belted out a big “Oke, OKAY!” No one laughs. Nothing. My best pun attempt is an utter failure. I get the signal to go and I’m off. Except that the bucket that looked light is actually heavy as bricks. I falter. I manage to keep all the precious rice from falling on the ground but nearly lose my footing. I’m fine, everything is fine. I make my 22
way down the corridor and brewers are standing at checkpoints to guide me. Mr. Okada, a veteran brewer and the guy in charge of the mash starters at this brewery, is standing at the end of the corridor and greets me with a big smile. He waves me to the right. Oh god, it’s a staircase, and I have kid slippers on. I decide to take it slow, one step at a time, so my slippers stay on my feet. One flight of stairs passed. So far so good. I make my way past another large room with steaming pipes and hoses on the ground. I hop over some shoes and a wooden walkway into a bright tunnel connecting the old section of the brewery with the new. Light beams in from windows full of condensation. Another brewer waits at the end of the tunnel. “You’re almost there!” he says. The wooden bucket has started to eat into the side of my shoulder. I turn the corner and there’s another staircase. Shoot me now. As I approach the staircase, a wall of deliciousness hits me. It smells like someone is making a banana smoothie with pear and apple in front of a ventilator that is just wafting it throughout the building. I don’t even care about the staircase anymore. The rice has to get up those stairs and a lost slipper is no concern of mine! I race up the stairs going two at a time. The brew master Mr. Hayatsu is waiting for me at the top of the stairs. He leads me the rest of the way, finally to my destination. A room at the end of a the building. He opens the large steel door and another wall of sweetness hits me. The banana smoothies are coming from the sake tanks! I unload my rice, which comes out like the shape of the bucket, onto large white nylon sheets atop long wooden platforms. Other participants are there waiting with wooden spatulas to spread the rice out. My mind played with the thought of lining buckets up and making a rice castle, but the thought was swiftly destroyed by the vulture-like spatula holders keen to break up the rice. The room is steamy and my face and hands can feel the moisture. I trade places with another participant named Francesca and get spreading as she scurries out of the room. The rice is still too hot to touch without burning myself. Upon closer inspection, the rice looks rounder and whiter than I would have thought. I had Mr. Okada explain, “It’s because this rice is milled to 40% of its original size. It looks white because sake rice has a special part in the
centre of it called a shinpaku.4 This part is extremely important to sake brewing in general. You can try it if you want.” I take a small clump of rice, still warm and eat it. It’s a bit chewy, but harder and dryer than the usual rice I eat at school or in restaurants. It’s hard to believe that this is going to turn into a delicious alcoholic beverage… As I continue to spread, Okada’s words start to sink in. I remember the massive rice field that we planted this rice in in the spring. Forty-five percent of its original size he said? That means we’re using less than half of what we planted… Where’d the other 40% go? That seems like a huge waste! All of a sudden my spatula has been taken away and I’m signaled back down to the koshiki to carry more rice. By the second and third trip I’ve managed to get used to the weight of the bucket and also added a small jog down the straightaways. As we neared the end, other participants joined cheering sections for people still carrying rice. Brewers laughed watching us so excited about doing Shinpaku (心白) or white heart is a concentration of starch at the centre of sake rice. The more fats and minerals on the outside of the rice, the more unpredictable fermentation can be. Removing the outer layers and isolating this shinpaku can also result in lighter more delicate sake, which Niigata is quite famous for. 4
something that for them has become just a day to day task. That evening we sat down for dinner at a Japanese inn up in the mountains. Fish and other fancy fair, plus lots of sake, were had! The previous year we made sake with Katafune, a brewery in Joetsu and so the 10th generation owner, a young guy named Haruki, even came out for the evening festivities and brought some sake of his own! That night it snowed, which made the outdoor bath unforgettable. The biggest take away from this event was the kindness of the brewers and the connections I was able to make with the other participants. Being inside a brewery, in the area away from the display cases, I felt at once very humbled to even be allowed inside and very thankful that I was seeing what goes into making the beverage I had only really understood from the grocery store aisle. It’s pretty easy to think of sake simply as a drink in a bottle we can get at the store. Very rarely is it even possible to look beyond that and see what goes into making it or meet the people whose hands bring it into being. I started to see sake in a new way. I was also able to share this experience with other people, just like me. Some people were hardcore sake fans, others were more casual, but the experience connected us in a way no other event could.
Travel
Photo Credit to Will Norton
Ski Niigata By Christofer Weast And Robert Burns
When it comes to skiing and snowboarding in Japan, several big mountain locations definitely stand out among the rest. Most people may think of the big mountain resorts in Nagano or Yamagata, some may be drawn to the infamous Hokkaido powder ranges in the north. These big named locations unequivocally over shadow the rest, yet the true beauty and adventure to be had within Japan’s slopes truthfully lie in the local ski hills. One such area that undeniably fits the bill is our beautiful prefecture of Niigata. From the sloped range around the northern most stretch of the prefecture, to the mountains that border Nagano in the south, there are amazing and unique spots to be found all across the Niigata. The northern area of Murakami may be best known for its Senami quarter of amazing onsen, delicious local beef, or its astonishing festival with oshagiri (giant handcrafted wooden carts), but one of its truest gems are discovered in the outlying mountains. The ski hills and resorts of the greater Murakami area are humble in some ways, but also hold some expert level challenges that were not expected. Along with its terrain, one can also catch a deep homegrown atmosphere from its mostly regional patrons. Covering the three main slopes of 26
the Murakami area will help to paint a great picture of what this place offers. There is Tainai ski resort with its wide range of terrain and options for local entertainment, Wakabuna with a strong local vibe and challenging terrain-park, and not to forget that tiny little two lift hill up in the hills of Asahi known as Budou Ski Jyou. The hills on the southern side of Niigata offer a wide range of experiences, challenges, views, and vistas. The slopes on Mount Myoko are some of the oldest established ski areas in the world, and claim both the longest and steepest runs in central Japan. There are a variety of ski resorts to choose from on the mountain itself, each with their own history and specialties. Resorts such as Suginohara offer some truly breathtaking courses and draw a huge international crowd, while areas such as Ikenotaira are extremely popular with local residents. However moving off of Mount Myoko and into some of the hills in the surrounding areas can provide some stunning experiences. Charmant Hiuchi in Itoigawa is an example of the deceptive challenge and amazing rewards that can be provided by many of the smaller hills that can be found across the prefecture.
Tainai Kogen Resort, Tainai If you are on a quest for a resort in the north that has more of a big mountain feel with all the amenities, your search should point you toward Tainai Kogen Resort. During the spring and summer months this area bodes well for the resort life enthusiast. Within a simple several minute drive from the resort are the Tainai Kogen Park Hotel, which features an amazing roof-top onsen, the matching golf course with a fancy little country club, and the incredible Tainai brewery which serves one of the best Weizens you’ll ever have the pleasure of tasting – it really is that good. There is even a small fishing park next to the brewery where you can catch fish and have them grilled to eat on site. At the ski resort you will be greeted by a lodge which holds a great rental shop with everything you could need and a restaurant that has a surprising range of items. The slopes have a great variety of styles and a wide scape. With six lifts and just over ten courses, there is just about something for every skill level. There is even a beginner’s hill with a snow escalator which you can use to practice skiing and snowboarding, or even ride sleds.
Wakabuna, Iwafune This ski area is definitely best known for its local flavor and regular, homegrown riders. Wakabuna isn’t the biggest mountain, but it does have a clear range of skill requirements for its runs. Extending from the peak of the mountain all the way to the base is a run that can take a good ten minutes to clear if taken at a leisurely pace. This ride starts with an expert level steep slope, and transitions into a relaxing ride down the front face of the mountain. There are also a number of beginner courses that wind throughout the ski hill and offer a fun experience. Though what really stands out at this ski area is not the typical ski resort feel, but its local vibe. If you ever go more than once, you are certain to see the same groups of locals that come every weekend for the terrain park that is featured throughout the stretch of the main run. This park has a variety of obstacles that can challenge even experienced riders. Yet the real flavor of this resort can be found at its second, midlevel lodge where they usually host weekend parties and DJ performances. It really is a great taste of the Wakabuna family feel. 27
Budou Ski Jyou,
Budou Ski Jyou, Murakami Murakami
There is no mistaking, this place is tiny. Of all the resorts you may have been to before, this place may actually be the smallest. With only two lifts that seat just a pair, this mountain is nothing to write home about. The base of the ski hill is actually tucked into the local residential area of the Budou Village (cutely named ‘grape’ village). The main ‘lodge’ does hold a small rental and service lounge as well as a small restaurant upstairs. At the top of the first lift is another small lodge; this is where Budou starts to stand out among the rest. The feel of this lodge will leave you feeling very welcomed. Nearly the only patrons found there either live in the village or travel just within the Murakami area. The family of old ladies that operate the kitchen are among the nicest you will ever meet, just waiting to help you and give out their homemade tsukemono (Japanese pickled vegetables). After this lodge is the second lift which takes you up to the peak. The view from here is incredible on a clear day, showing off virtually the entire Asahi mountain area. From the peak you will find what truly makes Budou a place worth mentioning. It must be stated that Budou is not a beginner level hill. In fact, there are no beginner runs on the mountain at all. This particular run isn’t very long, but it is incredibly technical and never groomed (the process of treating the snow with plows so that it is easier for skiing). This run may just be the most difficult run in the Niigata area with deep powder dips and turns followed by a ten foot drop off on one side. If you are looking to ‘shred the gnar’, you found it.
Charmant Hiuchi Ski Resort
Suginohara and Ikenotaira Ski Resorts
Budou Ski Jyou
Wakabuna
Tainai Kogen Resort
Suginohara Ski Resort, Myoko Suginohara is an amazing resort that offers something for every kind of rider. Just to start with, it boasts the longest ski run in Japan at 8,500 meters. Taking the full run from top to bottom is a unique and scenic journey. With around 10 lifts, 15 trails, a huge terrain park, and 1,124 meters of vertical drop there is always some new area of the slope to discover and keep you entertained. The view from the 8 person gondola alone is worth the price of admission, and for the more adventurous who make it to the top of the mountain there is even a spot where, on a very clear day, you can see all of the way to Mount Fuji. With a variety of other attractions available at the resort (such as snowmobile rides and lessons, and a huge selection of restaurants spread throughout the mountain) and the fact that children 13 and under ski for free, Suginohara is a great destination for larger groups and families as well. If you are looking for a ski hill you can settle into and explore for a few days, Suginohara is definitely worth your time. 30
Ikenotaira Onsen Ski Resort, Myoko While not nearly as big as some of the other ski resorts on Mount Myoko, Ikenotaira remains a favourite among locals. Divided into two major skiing areas, each section of Ikenotaira offers something unique. The southern area offers wide trails with scenic vistas, including breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and a nearby Lake Nojiri. The trails on the northern runs are often more wooded and leisurely, but offer plenty of opportunities for more experienced riders to go looking for lines in the trees and loose themselves in the beautiful powder snow. The hill also hosts a decent sized terrain park, making it a very popular destination for snowboarders in the area. If you’re looking for an interesting dining experience during your time out, Hotel Alpine Blick (located adjacent to the southernmost lift) offers a huge beer hall that provides patrons with a robust tabehoudai (all you can eat) selection and a range of beers brewed by the local Myoko Kogen Beer brewery.
Charmant Hiuchi Ski Resort, Itoigawa By comparison to many of the other slopes available in the south of Niigata, Charmant Hiuchi is certainly not one of the biggest. But if you’re looking for something off the beaten path that offers a bit more adventure and challenge, this hill in Itoigawa might be the place for you. It also offers a simultaneous view of both the mountains and the sea, something that is very rare for ski hills in Japan. This resort has 3 lifts, but most of the time there are only 2 that are actually running. However, the major draw here is the off-piste options available. This spot boasts great powder, with snow height that exceeds even that on Mount Myoko many years. And while the hills available right off of the lift are great, there are even greater rewards available for those with a more adventurous streak. Certain locals recommend a one hour hike you can take from the top lift that ends in some truly amazing back country trails.
The Sparkling
Send i
n the Tohoku region of Japan, located in Miyagi Prefecture, lies a city that shines like a sparkling jewel... Sendai! When people think of Sendai or Miyagi Prefecture, the image that comes to mind is the Fox Village or the Cat Island. But I went there for the sole purpose of learning about their infamous samurai. The notorious Oneeyed Dragon, Date Masamune. Pretty sick name right? When I first arrived in Sendai, the first thing I did was‌eat gyutan! You’re probably thinking, OK, so what? Well gyutan, or cow tongue, is very famous in Sendai and often served like a steak, with various seasonings. Sendai is littered with many gyutan restaurants and you can buy packaged gyutan as a souvenir! If you ask anyone what you
should do in Sendai, the answer will be to eat gyutan. Even if you feel a little squeamish about eating cow tongue, you should give it a try in Sendai.
g SpecTacular:
dai! After gorging on gyutan, a walk would be nice, right? If you go to the northern part of Sendai, you can find beautiful shrines and temples to visit. But the place I recommend the most is Rinnoji temple! Small fun fact time! Rinnoji temple is the Date family temple and was moved to Sendai from Fukushima Prefecture, as Masamune had moved bases to Sendai. With that in mind, when you first arrive at this famous samurai family temple, you may think that it looks like any other ordinary temple. But follow the arrows! You will soon find yourself in a small tunnel, and as you walk your way through you may think you stumbled into a Ghibli movie. Behind Rinnoji temple is a garden so gorgeous, spectacular, magnificent, glorious, arresting, dazzling…I’m running out of adjectives...that it feels
By SamanTha Wolfe
like you’re entering another world! As you take in your surroundings when you walk down the path, you will notice a pond where koi fish swim beckoning you for your attention (a.k.a. food). But what really draws your eye is a pagoda sweetly nestled between trees that you know will burn brightly in fall and sparkle in winter. When you come to Rinnoji temple, I encourage you to a take a leisurely stroll in its garden and take in the exquisite contentment it exudes. If you want to experience Sendai culture in a more tangible way, you should go to a shop in Sendai Statation called Shimanuki (しまぬき). It’s a souvenir shop that offers a variety of Sendai goods such as daruma, tsutsumi animal dolls, tenugui, Date Masamune memorabilia, and various kokeshi dolls.
Kokeshi dolls are traditional wooden Japanese dolls that come from the Tohoku region. They don’t look like ordinary dolls. They only have a cylindrical body and a simple round head, but that’s not what makes them interesting. The way they are painted shows their true value. They sport many colors and their faces are painted in a simplistic but elegant manner. And at Shimanuki, instead of buying a premade kokeshi doll, you can make one yourself! For the cost of about 400 to 500 yen, you choose the shape of your kokeshi and design it in either a traditional or modern way. It makes a great souvenir for friends, family, or yourself! But let’s talk about what you really want to know: the historical sites that Date Masamune once walked. Did you know that this year is the 450th birthday of Masamune? Well you do now! Why is that important? It’s important not only because it’s way cool but if you go to the Sendai City Museum, you will experience something wonderful. The Sendai City Museum is even now holding a special exhibition to celebrate their warlord. Be prepared to be amazed! There are many great artifacts that belonged to Date Masamune, from his smoking pipe and clothing to his armor and sword. There is even the original document that Pope Paul V wrote to Masamune after Masamune sent ambassadors to Spain. If you are a lover of samurai history, you will faint from rapture! When you finally pick yourself up from the floor, follow the path that leads to Sendai Castle. Or Aoba Castle, as it was once called. Be careful though, 34
because as it once was an impenetrable fortress, it was built on a very steep hill. So if you don’t have legs of steel, you can take the loop bus. The castle, unfortunately, does not exist anymore but the view is magnificent! The whole city can be seen and you can see why Masamune chose this spot for his fortress. On the castle grounds there is the famous Date Masamune statue where you can take a photo. And if you are lucky, you can meet Masamune in the flesh! When I arrived at Aoba castle, Masamune and I made eye contact, and in a big, booming voice he yelled... in English “Welcome to my castle!” I almost fell in love, so of course I took a photo with him. He and his vassals later danced and sang. The last place you should visit for more history of Date Masamune is Zuihoden. What is Zuihoden? It is the tomb where Date Masamune rests. It is a beautiful piece of architecture all in black with gold trim and colorful motifs. It’s very dynamic and breathtaking. It’s not the original; as with many great historical places it was destroyed by air raids during WWII, but that gave historians the excuse to dig Masamune up. He was still intact, so they measured and x-rayed his body, and cleaned up his buried artifacts, which are now in the Sendai City Museum. Zuihoden also has its own little museum with a few artifacts and the reconstructed face and body of Date Masamune. The man was about my height (5’4”) if not a couple inches shorter. It’s quite fascinating to think that someone that size was a great samurai warlord.
www.zuihoden.com 35
After you leave Zuihoden, you may feel the spirit of Date Masamune envelope you, but to feel even closer to him, you should eat zunda mochi! Zunda mochi is like anko mochi but instead of red sweet anko bean paste, it has sweet green edamame paste! You may be asking, what does this have to do with Masamune? Well, Masamune loved cooking. It was one of hobbies and he created zunda mochi, which is now a Sendai specialty. There are little Japanese sweet shops all over Sendai that sell zunda mochi. There is even a store at Sendai Station that does everything zunda! You may think it’s weird to eat sweet edamame, but I guarantee that you’ll get hooked with its unique flavor! Please try this delectable treat when in Sendai. 36
www.sendai-airport.co.jp/en
If you find yourself wanting to have a last look of Sendai before you leave, I suggest going to the top of AER Observation Terrace. The whole city in all its wonder will be displayed before you and you can catch a glimpse of something quite interesting that might even catch you off guard. It is a large, white statue of a woman that seems to glow and hover over the edge of the city, in an eerie sort of way. To be honest I thought I was in a Doctor Who episode, but I’m American so that couldn’t have been possible. What I saw was the Sendai Daikannon, a 100 meter statue of Kannon, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. From where I could see, it was beautiful, though very startling! Even though I did not get a chance to visit the statue, you should go check it out for yourself.
You may believe that perhaps Sendai is not the place for you if you are not interested in samurai history. But don’t let that stop you! Sendai has much to offer! There are shrines and temples, a craft village, amazing food, and a cat island! Yes, cats! What more reason to visit Sendai? And if you go in July, they have a huge festival for Tanabata! So what are you waiting for? Go and enjoy this sparkling, spectacular city!
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Reviews
Photo Credit to Francesca Abbondanza-Bergeron
AMG Kitchen Finding America in Niigata
By Angela Marie Moore
H
ello everyone, Angela again. Hope everyone is staying warm as the chill of winter has settled stubbornly in both our bones and Niigata. Living in Japan is an interesting experience and trial to all the senses. Every day you hear, see, touch, smell, and taste something new. However, sometimes you just want a slice of what is familiar. Perhaps even find a place 40
that brings back college memories. Many of us have no doubt been dragged to cafes that have a unique atmosphere as the restaurant tries to give it a flare that is different from all the others. When I first walked into AMG Kitchen I took in its cozy, but chic atmosphere. With one wall being made of brick and mortar with shelves
caramel and vanilla ice cream, honey and butter, or strawberries with whipped cream. Another way to satisfy your sweet-tooth is through their delicious cakes. Classic strawberry shortcake, rich New York style cheesecake, chocolate cake, or a soft white sponge cake with its layers separated with cream, strawberries, and blueberries. Any of these are a good choice to pair with a hot beverage now that winter has sunk its overflowing with plants, a projector claws into our little snow country. silently streaming popular music videos Want to go savory instead of on another wall, and soft pop music sweet? Not a problem. How about a hot playing from the speakers in both dog? Yes, real hot dogs in Japan that English and Japanese. I felt like I had are deliciously prepared in a restaurant walked into a Californian bistro or cafĂŠ. with framed pictures of American First, let us focus on the cafĂŠ superhero emblems and Simpson menu that AMG Kitchen offers, the characters. There is the AMG Hot Dog drinks are a dream for anyone that which is much like the classic hot dogs enjoys a good cup of coffee, expresso, one would find in America. There is or latte. AMG Kitchen has their own also the AMG Cheese Hot Dog and blend of beans for the coffee they brew the AMG Salsa Dog, the names may through a drip system for a rich flavor. be self-explanatory, but the Salsa Hot One of the things I was very pleased to Dog has more of a spicy kick. Lunch find was a hazelnut latte, having had it both iced and hot, I can assure you that it is worth the price tag of 470 yen. Honey, caramel, and matcha (green tea) are also offered in latte form. Fresh fruit smoothies are on the tap as well, paired with alcohol and house made sodas in interesting flavors like honey lemon and berry. For those not looking for a full meal you can select crisp, but fluffy waffles that come drizzled with either 41
is the best time to go to AMG Kitchen in my opinion since each of the main dishes come with a complementary drink, bowl of soup, and a house made salad. The choices have varied tastes. A personal favorite of mine is the grilled pork loin plate that comes with the choice of garlic or onion sauce. This dish comes with rice, grilled and pickled vegetables, and potato salad that rounds out to be 1,480 yen. There is beef sirloin steak, AMG curry with lot of vegetables, pasta with generous portions of seafood, and Asparagus 42
lemon cream pasta also offered for the lunch course. For those that do not wish to eat meat there is a grilled seasonal vegetable platter that won’t leave you feeling hungry. Items on the lunch menu range from 990 yen to the most expensive being 1,680 yen. Additional items are added and taken off the menu depending on the season, so you might find something new the next time you go! The regular menu, which can be ordered from lunch time without the set deal, is divided into several sections.
There is the Pasta & Rice section that has wonderful selections such as a cream based pasta with Yuzu (Japanese citrus fruit), pepper, and ham. There is also a pasta with a classic Bolognese sauce, and a shrimp and oil pasta. The BBQ chicken rice bowl and cheesy risotto are examples of some of the rice dishes. Everyone loves pizza, right? At least most of us probably do, but in Japan finding American style pizza can be a challenge. AMG Kitchen offers three kinds of pizza and the crust is thicker, making it closer to American style pizza compared to the thin Italian style crust that is popular in many places in Japan. There is the Margherita, a delicious classic with basil, mozzarella, and tomato sauce. Capricaiosa with bacon, salami, mushroom, mozzarella, and tomato sauce. Finally, there is the Quattro Fromaggi, or simply the fourcheese pizza, one of which is Tokachi cheese, which is cheese produced from cows from Hokkaido. Bistro classics are a welcome sight on the menu with spicy chicken wings, onion rings, and French fries. Something that might not be familiar is ajillo, which is food boiled in oil with whole cloves of garlic and other seasonings. This Spanish dish has several variations offered at AMG Kitchen with shrimp and mushrooms, oysters, and chorizo. Paired with fresh bread this is a delicious addition to the
meal, but the serving size is not large enough to be a main course for most people. There are many more options on the menu with different cuts of steaks from the grill and salads for someone craving some veggies. To see more, you will just have to check out the restaurant for yourself either on their Facebook page, website, or visiting in person. AMG Kitchen is an eight-minute walk from Niitsu station which is a twenty-minute train ride from the center of Niigata City. With a charming atmosphere and an expansive menu this spot offers a delicious something for everyone.
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Café Crawler By Eli Pappas Cafés. Where are the cafés in Niigata? For some of us folks a good café can be quite a difficult place to find in Niigata prefecture. Rating a café can be a difficult task as well, for any reviewer. Frankly speaking it comes down to personal taste. Although there are many shops with their frontal sign screaming ‘Hot Coffee’ and ‘Café’, the shop itself simply does not meet the expectation as to what a café is. Thankfully, this article will review some of the finest places in Niigata city, expounding on the quality of coffee and food offered in the hopes to satisfy the cravings of at least some of us folks. For our first little venture, let’s look at places close by after exiting the train and walking on the platform of Niigata station. So, if you are an American who loves that simple black coffee taste, then I would recommend the cafe called シャモニ ー (Chamonix). It is located on the second floor of CoCoLo in Niigata station (in the back next to
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Suit Select). They have a variety of teas, juices and offer hot chocolates with a variety of sweets. The chocolate cake is a MUST-TRY! Seriously, it is. The downside to this café is that it does not offer lunch. It serves more as a morning/afternoon tea place. It is important to note that a café from an Australian perspective is a restaurant that serves breakfast and lunch, as well as coffee. It is not just a coffee shop. However, on the amazing upside, it offers a variety of coffees that are not usually found in many places in Niigata. Offering coffee originating from about nine different countries around the world, it’s certainly worth while sitting in a chair, listening to some classy piano music as you take another sip of the coffee of your preference. Furthermore, this café offers cold drip coffee and syphon coffee. Both have the appearance of chemistry sets, but produce a flavour unique to the manner of its respective extraction. To top it off the café even offers espresso machine made coffee. To inform the unaware, an espresso machine is not a drip. Its an extractor using high pressure to push hot water through coffee grinds that has been placed in a basket. It extracts all the flavour that a drip does not. They are a specialised machine, and the most effective way to make coffee. Though, I will say objectively (especially if you are Australian and Kiwi) this café does not offer the best tasting coffee. However, from experience it’s still nice and enjoyable. I particularly like their style of cappuccino. It’s made like a long black, with thick cream, sprinkled with cinnamon and garnished with a cinnamon stick.
Finally, the café offers beans, and grinds them to order for you to take home or to school if you suffer cravings. I recommend their house blend. It has a sweet and full-bodied flavour. Even my kendo teacher likes it and he is a Green tea fanatic. Now, I want to turn your attention to what I believe is the best coffee you will find in Niigata prefecture (to date). It’s not far from Niigata station. In fact it’s right in front of it by the Bandai exit. Just walk out from the Jupiter store, look to your right, and across the road you will see a window café called Chiosco. Unfortunately, there aren’t many food options available at this café, save the varieties of amazing Italian gelato and ‘Cremia’ ice cream (a high quality soft serve) which makes great summer treats. Aki-San is the proprietor’s name. This is a man after my own coffee heart. Aki-San lived and worked in Melbourne, Australia and trained as a Barista there, learning to make some of the best espresso coffee you can get. His skills surpass any coffee maker’s ability I’ve seen in this prefecture. With properly made espresso and silky textured milk you can drink a cappuccino, latte, flat-white or mocha which will make you wonder how you did without it in the first place. I personally love the cappuccino, though I have to ask for cocoa to be put on it, because it’s not a normal thing in Japan as it is in Australia. Please keep this in mind when you order. Aki-San has a variety of alcoholic beverages on hand too, in case you need a drink to warm up those bones of yours. The downside to this place is there are no sitting areas. However, Aki-San has graciously given me permission to photograph his preliminary schematics of his upcoming plans to renovate his premises. It looks great, as there will be indoor seating and more options for customers. Please bear in mind that Aki-San has only recently opened last year. That being said, we can look forward to his new, exciting developments.
Overall, when searching for a good café I found it quite astonishing to realise that cafés in Japan are not like cafés in Australia. For example, a café in Australia is basically a breakfast/lunch restaurant with coffee and many other beverages available. Rarely, some places be open for dinner. And if so, they are limited to evenings, popular with their clientele. However, you can always have breakfast and lunch with coffee in a café in Australia. Furthermore, teas and hot chocolates are available too. Even smoothies and fresh juices are made to order. But one thing is for sure, you will never find a café that only sells coffee in Australia. A café in Australia is equipped with breakfast and lunch as a fundamental standard. In addition to this café culture, a new standard has been developing within the cafés in Australia. Some cafés will import their own beans and produce their own coffee roasts and blends, unique to their café. These roasting facilities and coffee sacks are usually proudly displayed for customers to see from the frontal part of the production area, making some cafés like a small warehouse. To add even further, cafés in Australia will offer coffee training to people who desire to become Baristas. Therefore, I found the café culture in Japan very strange, lacking in variety and facilities, and to a point annoying, because I would always have to travel somewhere else for lunch. Cafés in Japan are simply not the norm for Australians nor for New Zealanders I will add. To conclude, finding a café in Niigata city has been quite the difficult task, but it does not come without its rewards. Rewards ranging from varieties of coffee to choose from and amazing chocolate cake, to the best espresso coffee in the area. One can achieve complete satisfaction for their coffee cravings, despite the limited selections. Nevertheless, these places are of great quality worthy of visiting on a day trip to satisfy the coffee desire within. I hope you have enjoyed everything folks and I am looking forward to writing about the next café adventure. 45
Creative
Photo Credit to Robert Burns
Art Submission By Jessica Ing
Hatsumode Magic A Short Story
By Samantha Wolfe
I
t was Hatsumode at Hakusan Park and it was just before midnight. I was waiting in line for my turn to toss money at the shrine and give my prayers to Hakusan’s principle god, Kukurihime. She is the god of love, relationships, and marriage, so I was thinking of asking her for a wish.
The pond looked bare with only lights from the festivities reflecting off the surface but in summer it would grow tall, beautiful, lotus flowers in shades of pink. Walking passed I smiled in memory of the beauty it would one day contain, all the while children came running toward me. Moving away to give them room, I felt my foot slip and with a huge splash, I fell into the pond. I was completely submerged and I struggled to get my bearings. I was finally able to put my foot on the bottom and stood up, finding that the water only came to mid-thigh.
Soon midnight came with the ringing of the shrine’s bell and the cheers of people. The line began moving and when I finally stood in front of the shrine, I threw in a few 100 yen coins for good measure and prayed to Kurkurihime to have a magical and wondrous date. Laughing at myself, I stepped away “Great,” I say to myself as I brush away my wet to buy my omikuji and a love talisman. hair from my face. I wasn’t as cold as I thought I would be, in fact I was really warm and the air was It was late, but I wanted to wander around the park steamy and thick. I gave a sigh as I pulled my hair and so I bought poppoyaki to accompany me as I back to wring it out and as I looked up, I found was deciphering my fortune. I avoided the large myself in a forest of blushing pink lotus flowers. crowd of people lining up to the shrine by walking Those were definitely not there before, and I didn’t around the edge of the larger pond of Hakusan Park. know what to make of it as I made my way out of
the pond. As I was climbing out, I heard a loud After hearing that last part, I ran toward the gasp and what I thought sounded like “human” in opening. I heard yells and screams behind me but I kept going. This Hakusan Park was similar to the Japanese. one that I knew and I followed the forestry, dirt path I glanced up and stopped in my tracks. My breath that ran behind the second, smaller pond in the catching in my throat. In front of me were yokai, park. The ground was uneven and I tried very hard Japanese monsters, in various shapes and forms. not to trip. I peeked back and saw that I was being Some of them looked like normal people but some followed but they were fairly far away from me. things were off, like blue or red skin, horns, huge And then my foot touched air. The world turned as teeth, glowing eyes in different colors, or animal gravity pulled me down, and I fell on my back and I ears. Others were animals that stood upright and slid down a small hill into some foliage. I laid there objects that were supposed to be inanimate that stunned, staring at the sky as I heard the footsteps moved inhumanely. There were a few I recognized of my pursuers go by. I relaxed after hearing a few from Japanese folklore such as kappa, tanuki, moments of silence, and let out a strained “ouch.” karakasa, oni, tengu, and rokurokubi. After taking in their appearance, I saw that they were all dressed “That looked painful,” I heard a voice say above in colorful yukatas, as though they were at a summer me; it was alluring and masculine. I squinted up festival. I turned my attention to my whereabouts and my eyes widen in surprise. Standing over me and I saw that Hakusan was still there. Even though was a young, golden eyed, handsome man, wearing it was nighttime, the atmosphere seemed darker as a black yukata and silver obi. But that wasn’t what the park was lit with floating, eerie blue balls of fiery shocked me, he had ikemen, silver hair and……dog light with wisps of smoke billowing and swirling ears? And I’m pretty sure he had a tail. He smiled around the ground. I heard the deafening silence amusedly at me, “Don’t worry, I’m not here to hurt and I returned my attention to the crowd. All eyes you.” were on me with a mixture of astonishment, horror, and hostility. I gave an uneasy smile and took a It took me some time but I found my voice, “You small step, and the crowd jumped back about a foot. can speak English.” “How did a human get here?” “Do you think it’s dangerous?” “What should we do?”
“Of course, Japan is becoming globalized,” he said as though his explanation was the most obvious thing in the world. “Where am I?” I asked more to myself than him. I sat up slowly, wincing in pain.
I heard the crowd whisper among themselves. I glanced around to find a way to get out and over “The yokai world! Sorry about them. Humans don’t my shoulder I saw a path along the pond that was usually come around here.” pretty open. “How did I get here? And why am I here?” “We should catch it!” “Oh, that’s due to your wish,” he replied. I just stared at him in confusion. “I believe your exact words “No, we shouldn’t touch it!” were ‘I want a magical and wondrous date.’” “It’ll only bring trouble.” “Why do you know that?” “We should kill it!”
“I am Okami, Kukurihime-sama’s guardian wolf “But isn’t it Hatsumode? Why is everything like a familiar.” summer festival?” “Is that so,” I replied. What else could I say? This “It is a summer festival! While it’s winter in the was either a dream or I was dead. human world, it’s summer here. We’re celebrating the Yokai Night Parade!” “So, I am here to fulfill your wish! Kukurihime-sama told me to bring you here. But we only have until My eyes grew big in excitement, “Really! That’s dawn when I have to send you back. That’s when awesome!” the yokai magic ends and you could get stuck here. Well anyways, you should probably wear these.” “Isn’t it? Now stop thinking and just enjoy the Okami placed something on my head. I reached up moment!” Smiling at his words, I followed his and felt a headband with furry ears. advice and he led me around the shrine. I blinked, “This is going to make me blend in?” “You’ll be fine! Now come on! Let’s go on our date!” “Uh…” I answered as he pulled me to my feet. “Oh, you’re soaked, let me fix that!” Okami pulled out a lotus flower and blew it in my direction. The petals fell apart and danced around me, and with a rosy flash, I was dry and dressed in a pretty, pink yukata. He took my hand and smiled at me. “Now you’re ready!”
I saw human food, like yakisoba, takoyaki and even poppoyaki and Okami bought almost every kind of food there was to offer and shared it with me. We played games and I talked to some of the yokai there, learning about their lives. I then heard a loud boom overhead and I looked up at the sky to see that fireworks had started. At first they seemed like normal fireworks, but over time they changed and soon glittery figures of a yokai appeared. Over and over the fireworks went off and then a parade of firework yokai started to march across the sky. I stood there impressed, unable to pry myself away.
He started to pull me along in the direction from Okami and I stood there for what seemed like which I had just ran and I stopped, speaking forever until I saw the sky starting becoming lighter. hesitantly, “I’m not sure…” Okami’s hand tightened around mine. “That’s our cue to leave,” he said as he pulled me away from the “It’ll be fine! Off we go!” He said cheerfully and all crowd. Yokai were leaving in herds, trying to avoid but dragged me after him. I was very apprehensive the sunlight. Okami shoved through the crowd as and I carefully glanced at the yokai we passed. No the sun threatened to peak over the horizon behind one seemed to notice me my “humanness” and I us. We broke through and we found ourselves at the relaxed. Okami grinned at me, “See? What did I tell lotus pond. “Well, we’re here.” you?” I turned to smile at him, “Thank you for the date. It We walked hand-in-hand back toward the shrine was magical!” and I took in this new, strange world of yokai. It was very exciting to see the creatures I had only “Don’t forget wondrous,” he smiled. read about in stories, strolling about, talking, and laughing just like in the human world. “This is I laughed, “That too. Well I guess this is goodbye.” I amazing!” I all but leaped with joy. smiled sadly and turned to the pond. Okami laughed, “I’m glad you like it.”
“Oh wait!” He yelled and pulled out a small, black
box from his yukata. “I thought you would like it.” doctor?” I was about to open it, when he stopped me. “Not now! The sun is coming! Go!” He all but shoved “No, I think I will be fine.” me into the pond. I jumped in and started to walk “Then let me get you a taxi,” he said as he stood. toward deeper water. “Thanks again Okami! I had fun!” I yelled over my “I don’t want to trouble you.” shoulder. “It’s fine, I was here by myself anyways. Let’s go!” “Me too! Ah! Don’t forget to make a plan for our he said as he pulled me to my feet. He grabbed my hand and led me to the exit while people stared at next lesson!” us with concern. When we reached the entrance of I stopped and blinked, “Huh?” I yelled as I turned Hakusan Park, he hailed a taxi and he helped me in. to look back at him, but I lost my footing and fell “Oh, by the way you dropped this.” He put something into the pond. in my hand. It was the small, black box from my When I opened my eyes, I was on the bank of the dream, now slightly damp from the pond. I stared pond and a familiar handsome face was looming at it, stunned. over me. “Okami-sensei?” “Thank you,” I said. “Are you okay? I saw you fall in the pond and I went to pull you out,” he said. He was sitting beside me, “No problem, see you later!” he said cheerfully, as he shut the door. The taxi driver asked for my also soaked. address and I gave it to him as I was opening the “Yeah, I’m okay,” I said as I sat up with a slight box. Inside I saw a silver chain and I pulled it out to headache. I guess I knocked myself out and had find a black glass bead hanging down from it. The a wild dream. I looked over at Okami-sensei who bead had silver swirls and wolves dancing around was an English teacher and one of my coworkers. its surface. As the taxi took off, I felt eyes on me and I looked back. There was Okami-sensei, with an He looked exactly like Okami from my dream. amused, knowing grin on his handsome face, and He looked at me concerned, “Should we go to the his eyes seemed to shimmer like gold.