Ligurian Love Affair

Ligurian love affair

The sun shines brightly on the coastal Italian region of Liguria, where history and food are intertwined, as Nicola Edmonds discovers.

Photography by Nicola Edmonds

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Genoa's elegant Cavo cafe has been serving coffee since 1880. this page: The

picturesque village of Pietrabruna; figs at the Imperia Oneglia Market.

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raided to the sparkling blue hems of the Ligurian Sea, the Italian region of Liguria is a narrow ribbon of coast and mountains that wends 350 kilometres eastwards, from the border of France to the outskirts of Tuscany in the south.

The locals see their region as being one of two halves, which are named relative to the rising and setting of the sun: the Rivieras di Levante (to the east) and Ponente (to the west).

At the cusp of the two, the legendary seaport city of Genoa reigns supreme and is, locals believe, where the sun shines brightest.

This abundant sun also nourishes a special intensity in the flavours of the region. From the patchwork of crops that bask in the tiny pockets of arable land, the famously frugal cooks of Liguria have developed great skill in coaxing much from relatively little.

Drawing also from the fresh fish and seafood at their doorstep and the prolific supply of fresh herbs that flourish in the mountain valleys, Ligurians like to refer to their style of cuisine as ‘la Cucina Profumata’ (the Perfumed Kitchen).

The region is famous for the familiar emerald green presence of fresh-made pesto, found

in every market and salumeria, and for the delicately fragrant, almondy Ligurian olive oil.

The treats that locals place on their ‘must-try’ lists though, tend to be as humble as they are delicious.

Such delicacies might include: Sardenaira, a simple pizza topped with a paste made from sardines, torta verdure, a savoury pie filled with fresh greens and cheese, or a plump, moist slice of focaccia (showcasing the aforementioned local oil), still warm from the oven.

Though more commercial than its eastern counterpart, the Riviera di Ponente is arguably the road less travelled by international tourists. Beyond the plentiful white sand beaches with their busy towns and resorts, tiny villages speckle the vertiginous heights above, perched sleepily amongst some of the best olive groves in Italy.

Affordable and friendly for those with just a few days to get a feel and taste for the spirit and flavour of Italy, or who are perhaps looking for a more easy-going entry route than the frantic scramble of the cities to the South, the Ponente is a wonderful introduction to beautiful Liguria.

Pietrabruna An hour’s drive from the French border, nestled high on the slopes of Monte Faudo, the beguiling village of Pietrabruna was first settled 1400 years ago and is surrounded by flower farms and whispering olive trees.

Besides being the birthplace of ‘stroscia’, a flat biscuity cake made with extra virgin olive oil and a splash of vermouth, the village is also known for its festivals devoted to the celebration of mushrooms, polenta and wild boar.

Stay Franca Ranise hosts three lovely selfcontained apartments within the village.

Be sure to ask to see her olive oil making activities in the cellar of her home. www.agriturismoranisefranca.com Visit Museo dell’Olivo: A small museum that does a wonderful job of explaining the relationship between the people of the Mediterranean and the ever-present olive tree. www.museodellolivo.com Imperia Oneglia Market (Rione di Oneglia) — Wednesday and Saturday: An extensive outdoor market full of locally grown produce and artisan provisions typical of the area.

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Grand buildings line the bustling streets of historic Genoa. this page clockwise from far left : Olive trees

surround the village of Pietrabruna; catch of the day in Varazze; Graziella dell'Amerigo beside her bed and breakfast yacht, the Armegio; the Mare Hotel's pool offers a view to the hotel's private beach.

Savona Despite its industrial first impressions, Savona offers visitors a beautiful medieval city centre to explore, the Pinacoteca Civica Savona (an important collection of religious paintings) and even whale spotting trips, which leave the white sand shores between July and September.

Stay Mare Hotel: With its own private beach, this hotel is worth a visit even if only to experience the futuristic beach tableaux in the foyer and plum purple décor theme in the sumptuous superior guest rooms. www.marehotel.it Eat A Spurcacciuna: This excellent restaurant adjoining the Hotel Mare showcases a modern approach to fresh local seafood. Dishes are arranged and served with as much thought to their delicate artistry as to the myriad flavours on the plate. Dine alfresco beneath an elegant pergola, open to views of the stars and the soft sounds of the sea, just a stone’s throw beyond.

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Varazze The bustling town of Varazze has a busy fishing fleet in attendance and the winding budello (backstreet alleyways) are a great place to visit the cheerful fishmongers who excel in showing off the local catch.

Eat Ristorante Bri: Rosella and Luigi prepare authentic family recipes with the lightest touch. Try lightly crumbed baby octopus so tender that they disappear in a mouthful, salty anchovies delicately split and stuffed with a filling of egg, bread and cheese, or Branzino sea bass baked whole on a bed of salt and plated at your table in plump white flakes.

Stay Sardinian-born Graziella dell’Amerigo offers bed and breakfast aboard her beautifully restored motor-yacht, Amerigo. Brunch is served among the potted petunias on the top deck while Fragoletta the Yorkshire terrier keeps watch from her perch beside the gangway. www.imbarcazioneamerigo.com

clockwise from left: Cavo's stylish

exterior; food is never far away in the streets of Genoa; locals are immensely proud of Genoa's grandly beautiful architecture.

Genoa Buffed clean of much of its shady reputation during the last few years, the city once known as ‘La Superba’ still retains just the right blend of grit and intrigue alongside the grandly beautiful architecture, both modern and classical, of which the locals are so justifiably proud.

Shadowy webs of caruggi, the city’s famously dark and almost claustrophobically narrow alleyways, funnel to and fro across the city centre, opening out into wide bright avenues of magnificent palazzo and depositing pedestrians at the bustling and increasingly gentrified Porto Antico harbour-front.

The Genovese are also known for lavishing much love upon their city’s fabulous food scene. Chic bars and eateries bump elbows with the historic and atmospheric caffè sprinkled throughout the city centre.

Legendary for its unpretentious friggitoria; the Ligurian equivalent of ‘fry shops’ are said to leave all other fast food but a pale shadow in comparison.

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Focaccia is available, fresh-baked, at all hours along with the golden savoury rounds of farinata – fried crepes made from chickpea flour.

Visit Mercato Orientale (The Oriental Market): The huge central market of Genoa takes its name from its position; built just to the east of the city walls in 1899. To avoid the crowds wander with the locals early in the week. www.mercatoorientale.org/en Cavo: Serving pastries, coffee and liquor since 1880, this elegant café is a wonderful place to see and be seen. For a special pick-me-up, ask for a café corretto, which comes with a shot of liqueur. www.cavo.it/marescotti Eat Friggitoria (fry shops): The choices are endless, but these two are an authentic

sample from which to gain a taste for further Frigittoria exploration of your own.

Antica Sciamadda – Via San Giorgio 14, Genoa; Friggitoria Carega – Via Sottoripa, 113r, Genoa Maxela: For those feeling meat-deprived, this beef-only steakhouse also proudly showcases its butchery within the urbanely cool restaurant surrounds. www.maxela.it Eataly: Enjoy wrap-around views of the ancient harbour from the gourmet seafood restaurant Il Marin, tucked within Genoa’s outlet of this upmarket food store, then stock up on specialist food supplies.

NB: In Genoa many shops and eateries are closed on Mondays. Blue or black numbers painted on buildings indicate residences, while those in red are for businesses.