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The Cosmetic C o n s p i r a c y Each year, Americans spend over $22 billion on skin care and cosmetic products with the hope of improving their appearance and retarding the aging process. What you may not know is that these soaps, cleansers, shaving creams, toothpaste, hair dyes, moisturizers, bubble baths, and sunscreens could actually be responsible for causing the very wrinkles, brown spots, moles, hair loss, and sagging skin you are lead to believe they prevent. The greater crime is that many of the products in commercial cosmetic and skin care products are proven to promote cancer, and lead to other serious health conditions. Fully 98% of all skin care products may be harmful to your health; yet, this multibillion dollar industry remains "selfregulated' by large corporate conglomerates who spend millions of dollars annually to market what Charles Revson, founder of Revlon, called "Hope In A Bottle." There is one advocate in the crowd who is working to expose one of the biggest conspiracies affecting the American populous today, the Cosmetic Conspiracy. She is Linda Chae. This rebel for the healthy-skin cause, has been working arduously for more than 28 years, researching, experimenting, testing and developing safe, non-toxic, and health supporting skin care products. Her mission is to expose toxic cosmetic ingredients and educate consumers on how to make healthy choices for their skin, choices that improve, rather than destroy, the quality of their lives. Natural Health & Fitness caught up with Linda Chae on a recent New York visit. Here is what she had to say... NHF: Linda, there is so much hype in our society today, people simply don't know what to believe. Is this cosmetic conspiracy just another over-inflated, attention-grabbing scheme?

HAT'S GETT

Chae: Absolutely not; this issue is very real. Increasing cancer rates have prompted a lot of finger pointing, and many of the ingredients used in the formulation of cosmetics are most definitely part of the problem, not the solution. Quite a few cosmetic companies do not want you

Quite a few cosmetic companies do not want you to know about your skin and how it works. To them, profitability is their chief concern, not the therapeutic properties of their products, to know about your skin and how it works. To them, profitability is their chief concern, not the therapeutic properties of their products. These companies will often forego quality for cheaper processing, using impure and potentially harmful ingredients. In some cases, they aren't purposely choosing to use harmful ingredients; they simply have not taken the time or made an effort to understand how potentially harmful they can be. In other cases, however, companies do use toxins knowingly, keeping dosages under the 'toxic dose' limit, as set by the industry. These limits, however, are arbitrary. In the U.S., for example, it is 'acceptable' that up to 12-15% of a product contain DEA, a known carcinogen. By contrast, in Europe the acceptable level is only 1 %. NHF: How widespread is this problem? Chae: More widespread than one could imagine. To start, many of the ingredients in skin care products have been proven to promote cancer and other serious health issues, yet the cosmetic industry continues to use these ingredients in the products you buy. In fact, nearly 98% of the ingredients used in skin care products are potentially dangerous to your health. Aging is a myth, perpetuated by the cosmetic industry, that most people have bought into, not realizing that the very products they are using may be causing their wrinkles, brown spots, moles, and sagging skin. Skin is easier to care for than we are lead to believe by advertisers; it is naturally responsive to healthy treatment. NHF: So, it is possible for people to achieve younger looking skin, and revitalize damaged skin cells and tissues, even after years of using toxic products. Chae: Yes. Our bodies are resilient and regenerative. Even after years of abuse, the skin will respond to organic living foods, clean water and air, and even products that support biological processes. The way you care for your skin contributes to your vitality and energy, or it can leave you sluggish, uncomfortable and fatigued. The choice is yours. If you give your skin what it needs, it is possible to reverse damage; your skin gives birth to new cells every 24 to 40 days, depending on its age, and health. Hea!ih & Fitness

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NHF: Can you give us some examples of labeled nontoxic by the raw material breaking down their immune barrier, and these potentially hazardous ingredients? manufacturers. Debra Lynn Dadd, in her increasing the risk of infection or illness. You may also find it interesting that Chae: Diethanolamide (DEA), as I book, Nontoxic. Natural and Earthwise mentioned before, also Sodium Laureth said that today, synthetic chemicals, OSHA requires hazardous materials to Sulfate, and petroleum based made primarily from crude oil, are used be labeled with a safety data sheet which in nearly every industry is visibly attached to the outside of the ingredients, like and consumer product. In product container. In the case of mineral oil, Can you imagine fact, the chemical age, propylene glycol, the safety data sheet petroleum jellies, wrapping your entire brought on by World War II reads, "avoid contact with skin, eyes and and propylene body with Saran wrap? technology, has produced clothing. Wear protective clothing and glycol (PEG) are This is what happens potentially hazardous eye goggles when handling this among the most when you use products substances in almost ingredient. Prolonged skin contact may utilized and containing mineral oil, cause irritation." This is appalling, every item we purchase. d a n g e r o u s and other petroleum especially when we realize propylene ingredients. Mineral plastics. NHF: Why are the skin glycol is used in the manufacture of most oil and other care products, perfumes, products people apply to their skin daily. petroleum byproducts are liquid plastics that coat and and other cosmetics containing these It's often used in concentrations as high suffocate the skin. The skin, our body's ingredients not marked as toxic, when as 20%, even up to 60% in most stick deodorants. Hydrographers, who largest organ, is responsible for they are clearly dangerous? eliminating more cellular waste than the Chae: The term nontoxic is very measure water levels in the Sierra kidneys or the intestines. For every 1.5 misleading. In her book, Debra Lynn mountains, use propylene glycol in the inches, it contains over 100 sweat Dadd uncovered that, "according to the tanks to ensure the water doesn't freeze. glands, 15 sebaceous (oil glands), 4 Federal Regulatory definition, nontoxic When they empty the tanks it is yards of nerves and 3 million cells. Can doesn't necessarily mean 'not at all considered toxic waste; if any spills on you imagine wrapping your entire body toxic,' or 'absolutely safe,' but can mean, the ground, it is marked contaminated with Saran wrap? This is what happens for example, that up to one-half of the and must dug up and carried away. when you use products containing laboratory animals exposed to the Thousands of people are suffering from mineral oil, and other petroleum plastics. product through ingestion or inhalation the adverse effects of off-the-shelf died within two weeks." This is cosmetics and skin, hair, and cosmetic NHF: So, in essence, our pores become unconscionable. Would you use a products with symptoms such as clogged, and our system gets 'backed product if you knew it had ingredients headaches, rashes, eye infections, that could induce death in a lab animal? memory loss, excema, and psoriasis. Is it up.' Chae: Exactly. When you cover your skin Millions of Americans do, and many any wonder why? with plastic wrap, it cannot breathe or times a day. NHF: If these toxins eliminate wastes; the metabolism is In the late 1980s, are so dangerous, slowed, and the immune system NHF: The cosmetic an FDA survey then why doesn't the and the weakened. This contributes to a toxic industry found levels of the government step in? body, which can produce mental government are aware highly toxic 1,4 Chae: Big business confusion, impatience, anger, and mood of these dangerously dioxane, a deadly, and special interest swings. In addition, because the skin is high levels of toxins? cancer-causing groups. Why would starved of oxygen, skin cells die faster, Chae: Yes. Propylene the government want resulting in a dull, taut, and wrinkled glycol, for example, is a chemical, in all bui to say goodbye to a appearance. A weakened immune very common ingredient 3 of 30 children's $22 billion tax-paying system also increases your susceptibility in skin care, make-up shampoo and industry? A recent to health problems, caused by bacteria, products and shave bubble bath U.S. News & World parasites, viruses, molds & fungus. Our creams. It is even in products. Report article skin is our first line of defense; if it is many "natural" skin care reported that disabled, you are at a higher risk for products. Propylene approximately $5.5 illness and disease. glycol is a petroleum by- * product, and is the solvent of choice million, less than 1 % of the total Federal NHF: How often are these ingredients used by cosmetic companies. It is used Drug Administration (FDA) budget is used in skin care products? to extract the active materials from herbs spent on regulating the cosmetic industry Chae: With astounding frequency; over and other plants; it breaks down the - a "self regulated" industry which 90% of all ingredients in commercially cellulose lining in the plant so that produces over 20,000 types of products. available cosmetics products are of valuable properties of the plant seep out. Cosmetics are the least regulated synthetic origin. Synthetic fragrances, When propylene glycol contacts your products under the Federal Food, Drug & emulsifiers, solvents and surfactants are skin, it performs a similar solvent role. It Cosmetic Act; pre-market safety testing among the prime suspects for containing breaks down the protein barrier, allowing is not required. In fact, the burden of contamination, yet these are usually a person's natural moisture to escape, proof lies with the government in continued on p. 30 28

Natural Health & Fitness


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determining and regulating unsafe products. With fewer than 30 employees, the report unsurprisingly concluded that the government is rarely up to this challenge. NHF: What regulations do you recommend for the industry? Chae: Accurate labeling of all cosmetic ingredients. Corporations are not currently required to list ingredients. For example, most soaps do not list ingredients like fragrances, colors, flavorings, and other 'trade secrets', which contain potentially harmful solvents and carcinogens. I am a strong advocate of listing all ingredients, even those used in the processing of the products. In addition, there should be a ban on ingredients that are known carcinogens and toxins like: DEA detergents, propylene glycol, sodium lauryl & laureth sulfate, fragrances, FD&C colors, and PEG. (for a complete list, see "The Dirty Dozens" sidebar, page 35). NHF: That would put a lot of people out of business. Chae: I suppose it could; that's purely speculative. One thing is for sure, if regulations were implemented and enforced, it would result in a significant improvement in the health for the American people. NHF: You say that propylene glycol is in many 'natural' products? How can this toxic ingredient be considered 'natural' by these manufacturers? Chae: Propylene glycol, as I mentioned, is used to extract valuable essences and oils from herbs, flowers, seaweeds and other plants. Because it is a part of the production process, and not a base ingredient, manufacturers will often not list it as an ingredient. If propylene glycol is used for extraction purposes, you can be sure that it remains in the product. So, if the extraction method is not specifically listed on the product, be suspicious and call the manufacturer to ask for a full disclosure. Also, don't be fooled by something that appears to be 'natural'. Sodium laureth sulfate is often listed on 'natural' products with a tagline (extracted from coconuts). This does not mean it's harmless. All sodium laureth sulfate comes from coconuts; and it's all toxic. NHF: You mention that fragrances do not, legally, have to be mentioned on an ingredient list. Many people we know are increasingly intolerant of fragrances. Chae: Artificial fragrances have an immediate impact on the brain and body, and are a contributor to allergies, sluggishness, feeling down and moody. They can also lower concentration and memory. Complaints registered with the FDA about synthetic fragrances include headaches, dizziness, rashes, skin irritation, violent coughing, vomiting, and hyper-pigmentation (brown spots). The lady that heads up my research department has a permanent brown spot on her cheek and along the side of her neck from using perfumed products. continued on p. 32 30

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NHF: What causes these reactions? Chae: Most fragrances are petroleum plus substances derived from animal urine and feces which contain the cellular pattern for whatever pathogens the animal carried and excreted. Since synthetic fragrances contain alcohol, a solvent, isopropyl alcohol and fragrance resins easily penetrate into the skin, leaving it vulnerable to the reactions I described above, and sometimes to permanent discoloration. NHF: If you were to point to one process in the care of skin that is most misunderstood, and most damaging, what would it be? Chae: Cleansing. On the whole, we over-cleanse our skin. Cleansing is the first step in either protecting the skin's moisture and immune systems, or damaging the skin. Most people unknowingly over-cleanse with products that contain harsh ingredients. The skin has sebaceous glands, located under the epidermis, which secrete all of the natural precious oils and waxes to the surface of the skin. The natural waxes coat the surface, protecting it and keeping the moisture in. One of the fastest ways to dismantle the protective layer of oil is by cleansing skin with most of the cleansers on the market today. These typical cleansers contain either soaps or chemical detergents which dissolve the skin's natural proteins and oils. These detergents strip the skin, leaving it vulnerable to hundreds of pollutants and chemicals. They also dry out the skin, causing it to become malnourished and age prematurely, thereby reducing the skin's capacity to deal with the damaging effects of dirt, dust, pollution, sun and drying wind.

NHF: How do you know if your cleanser is a detergent? Chae: Look for names like sodium lauryl and laureth sulfate, cocomide MEA or DEA (whether it's from coconuts or not, it's a diethanolamide detergent containing nitrosamine, a proven carcinogen). The clear, vegetable based soaps, also contain lye-based sudsy chemicals. Vegetable oil has been added instead of the animal fats (commonly called tallow) which are added to most opaque soaps. Either way, almost no testing has been done to evaluate the possible synergistic negative effects that occur when synthetic chemicals are combined in soaps or skin creams. Scientists do not yet understand the ultimate effects of these chemicals; it is therefore difficult to regulate their use, and count on them as safe for general use. NHF: So, you recommend that people do not use bar soap on either their face or body? Chae: Yes. Currently, there are no bar soaps on the market that I can recommend. The key is to find a mild cleanser that does not significantly affect the pH of the skin. Unfortunately, most soaps leave the skin with a high alkaline pH (nine or 10). It takes anywhere from two to four hours for the skin's pH to rebalance; meanwhile, the body's resistance to disease causing microbes is significantly lowered. NHF: What about Dr. Bronners (trademark) soap or castille soap? Chae:These soaps have a lower pH (9) than other products on the market, but still not low enough to preserve the skin's continued on p.34

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immunity. In general, it is very difficult to develop a low-alkaline pH soap; we're working on doing this now. NHF: In the meantime, what's a person to do? Chae: One very good source of information that is available to consumers is The Safe Shopper's Bible, written by David Steinman and Samuel S. Epstein, M.D. While some of the products listed in the book as 'acceptable' contain toxic ingredients, they are better choices than the ones that many Americans currently use. Also, ingredient labels for cosmetic, skin and hair care products are listed in order of higher concentrations to lower, similar to food labels. If you must use a product with toxic ingredients, select the ones that have fewer toxins and lower concentrations of them. NHF: What about cosmetics like foundations, eye shadows, eyeliners, and mascara; are these products high risk also? Chae: Yes. Again, be very careful about what you select to use on your face and eyes. Products containing sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) denature the proteins of the eye tissues, impairing development permanently. SLS causes eye irritation, delays healing of corneal tissue, and is linked to cataracts. Because it is absorbed by the skin, it does not have to enter the eye directly.

60 hours of training in the area of skin anatomy and biology, compared to 500 hours for certified aestheticians. How could skin care products be made and not have them 100% based on the function of the skin? When I first started realizing even a fraction of the problems synthetic ingredients were creating in our bodies, I became committed to understanding the mystery of the skin and developing nutritional and healthy skin care products.

Consider how all of these contaminants will affect the health of your skin, your other organs, and your body. Then, ask yourself, is it worth it?

NHF: Is there any difference in the care of men's skin than for women? Chae: No, other than in the need to provide a gentle shave. Shaving is harsh on most men's skin; many shave creams and skin tonics exacerbate the problem. Again, you need to look at the ingredient label.

NHF: Do you have the same recommendations for children? Chae: Absolutely, even more so. In the late 1980s, an FDA survey found levels of the highly toxic 1,4 dioxane, a deadly, cancer-causing chemical, in all but 3 of 30 children's shampoo and bubble bath products that were analyzed. Of 54 (ethoxylated) cosmetic raw materials tested, all contained 1,4dioxane. Ethoxylated ingredients are PEGs and detergents such as cocamide (DEA,MEA), and sodium laureth sulfate. These detergents are used in everything from shampoo and facial cleansers to toothpaste. Most products that make suds contain sodium lauryl or laureth sulfate plus cocamide (DEA). Check your bathrooms to see if you can find these ingredients on any labels of products you have been using. NHF: This must be a real eye-opening exercise for many people. Chae: It was for me. When I started in this business more than 27 years ago, it amazed me that the majority of people in the cosmetic business didn't actually know much at all about the skin, and how it works. At the time, cosmetic chemists had only

NHF: How did you go about acquiring the knowledge necessary to create these products? Chae: I went back to school and studied cosmetic chemistry and skin anatomy. I even took a few classes in medical school just to be able participate in an autopsy so I could understand the workings of the skin, and how various ingredients affected it. As a side note about autopsies, the only thing that really turned my stomach was the smell of the formaldehyde; which is used for embalming. Throughout this process, I have consulted with some the world's most knowledgeable professionals in the medical field, as well as researchers from the Universities of Montreal, Harvard, MIT, and in Alexandria, Egypt. I also spent years searching the world over for the purest, most natural raw materials available; suppliers and laboratories from far reaching places have collaborated with me to create a skin care product line, Organic Essentials, out of a mission to develop products that create healthier, more vital and youthful skin.

NHF: What makes the Organic Essential products different than others? Chae: I use the purest, organic materials from around the world, like: Aloe Barbendensis Gel from the Dominican Republic, which is a rich nutrient with healing properties and condition agents to moisturize, tone and soothe; Vitamin E and other antioxidants to disarm pollution irritants and free radical scavengers; Ahnfltia Concinna Sea Extract, a pure moisturizing complex from sea algae and phytoplankton, that helps to replace vital skin nutrients such as proteins, minerals, aminoacids, and vitamins, and makes the skin feel smooth and elastic, not dry; Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract along with some other natural ingredients to reduce the effects of inflammation, and protect against the appearance of premature skin aging. We actually include the parts of a whole orange in one of the products, the Energizer Gel, to provide the skin with high levels of vitamin C; it smells great! The products are also packaged in a UV protected, non-toxic plastic containers to reduce spoilage, and oxidation. NHF: What about differences for Dry, Oily, and Normal skin? What is the best way to care for each skin type? Chae: I believe in an active, underactive (dry), or overactive continued on p. 70

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Ngfurai Health & Fitness


THE DIRTY DOZENS Are These Toxins in Your Skin Care Products? Chemical Toxins

"ow They Harm Your Body

Where You Will Find It

DETERGENTS sodium lauryl sulfate sodium laureth sulfate cocomido DEA and MEA

Strip the skin's precious oil mantle leaving it unprotected and exposed to hundreds of chemicals, bacteria, viruses, dirt, contaminants & pollutants. DEA is a proven cancer causing ingredient, specifically kidney and liver cancer. Detergents also scramble hormones and are contributing to plummeting sperm counts.

Many bar soaps, most facial cleansers, hand and bath soaps, bubble bath, shampoos, liquid dish washing soaps, toothpastes, detergents (virtually any product that suds has at least one detergent, even many 'natural' health products).

PLASTICS: Mineral Oils Petroleum Jelly PEGs propylene glycol butylene glycol acrylic polymers

Coat the skin with a "plastic" layer, inhibiting its ability to breathe and eliminate waste products. Common symptoms are blackheads, malnutrition and premature aging of the skin. Restricts normal cell development, skin will appear sallow, dull and lifeless.

Many foundations and moisturizers. Lip balms, nighttime skin treatment products, eye moisturizing products, nail polishes, and nail care products and hand lotions.

SOLVENTS Isopropyl alcohol, ie. SD40 propylene glycol, butane propane & butylene glycol

Some of these are strong enough to take barnacles off the bottom of boats. These solvents penetrate the skin's protective barrier and break down the inter-cellular mortar, causing the skin to be exposed to toxins, and to lose its elasticity.

Astringents, facial scrubs, toners, after shaves, some cleansers, especially those marketed for "oily" skin, mouthwashes, permanent wave solutions, moisturizers and dish and clothes detergents.

SYNTHETIC FRAGRANCES Fragrance perfume cologne

Alcohol, a typical ingredient in synthetic fragrance, can irritate the skin and strip away its natural protection. It dries out the skin, stimulating oil glands to produce excess oil and wax to repair the damage.

Watch for synthetic fragrances in all cosmetics and skin care products. They are commonly used in body talc, perfumed hand lotions, body sprays and deodorants.

FORMALDEHYDE-DONNING PRESERVATIVES DMD hydantoin propane-1, 2-bromo-2-nitro, 3-diol imidazolidinyl urea phenoxyethanol amyl acetate (neurotoxins) alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEs) diazolidinyl urea

Preservatives can release trace amounts of formaldehyde into the skin. Skin reactions after exposure are very common; formaldehyde can be irritating and allergy causing Formaldehyde is used in embalming process.

Every cosmetics and skin care product has preservatives. Be careful to check for the existence of toxic preservatives. Natural preservatives are: grapefruit seed extract, potassium sorbate, sorbic acid, tocopherol (Vitamin E), retinyl (Vitamin A), and ascorbic acid (Vitamin C).

COLOR PIGMENTS FD&C plus pigment color numbers

Synthetic pigments contain heavy metal salts and deposit toxins onto the skin, and eventually into the blood stream.

Hair dyes, eye shadows and other makeup products. Most skin and hair products.

RANCID OILS

Most vegetable oils turn rancid very quickly, especially if they are not extracted with a cold process. When you take rancid oils, your skin purges them. As the skin releases these oils, the sun activates them. This also causes your own skin's oils to oxidate, producing lots of free radicals and creating the environment for skin cancer & melanoma.

Any product that is packaged in a semitransparent, or nonopaque container.

OTHER N-Nitrosamines

In the 1970s, nitrosamine contamination, of cooked bacon and other nitrate-treated meats became a public health issue. The food industry, which is more strictly regulated than the cosmetics industry significantly lowered the amount of nitrosamines in these processed meats (hot dogs, bacon, etc.) Nitrosamine levels in cosmetics are now at drastically higher levels than once found in processed meat. Nitosamines devitalize the skin, making it prone to acne, wrinkles, brown spots, moles, warts, skin tags, and other skin conditions.

Toothpaste, shampoo, sunscreen, body lotion, body talc, makeup, and hair dyes.


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(oily) classification system. The skin should be treated based on /row it is functioning, not the result or symptom. This way, you can use the appropriate products and treatment schedule to match your skin's level of activity. Overactive skin, for example, produces too much oil; the typical person's reaction to this is to over-cleanse. Overcleansing sends the wrong message to the glands which continue making more oil, and exacerbates the problem. With the Organic Essentials product line, you can change how often and in what order you use the products so you can eventually achieve 'active' or ideal skin. NHF. Are there any other recommendations you have for our readers? Chae: When you're selecting personal care products, carefully read the ingredient labels, and compare them against a list of contaminants, (it's easiest to keep the guide presented in this article with you in your purse, organizer, or wallet). Consider how all of these contaminants will affect the health of your skin, your other organs, and your body. Then, ask yourself, is it worth it? If enough consumers compare ingredients, products that contain harmful substances will eventually disappear from the marketplace. Then, we will truly know how anti-aging nature really can be. O For more information on Linda Chae's Organic Essential line of skin care products or if you have questions for Linda Chae call 1-888-303-1708 or visit www.freelifeonline.com e-mail: skincarel 01 @hotmail.com

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