Family Fun
I ‘starred’ in my aquatic version of Fear Factor, hopped from one island to another, and watched a feeding frenzy right before my eyes – Indonesia’s Karimunjawa is undeniably Asia’s rising destination for the adventure-seeking family. BY NELISSA HERNANDEZ
“T
here’s this secret island. The first time I heard about it was in Surabaya,” revealed my Italian friend, who has been travelling around Indonesia since early this year. I demanded information; after all, anything heard through the grapevine is almost always worth considering. My friend complied. “It’s called – let me google it – Karimunjawa!” Later, I learned that Karimunjawa is actually an archipelago of 27 islands situated 120km off the northern coast of Java. It is purportedly Indonesia’s wellkept secret, with tourists arrivals in 2012 only estimated at 25,000. Everyone who has written about these pristine islands raved about their beauty. I did what any thrill-seeking travel journalist would do: discover if all the hype’s for real. Karimunjawa did not disappoint.
Wild encounters The fast ferry sliced through the Java Sea, and from my window seat all I can see are the calm waves and the vast expanse of
blue. The archipelago lives up to its name – in Javanese, it means ‘not clear from Java’. Thirty minutes before we docked, the hills of the main island slowly appeared out of the horizon, and the undulating waters gave way to seaside villages near the ferry terminal. From the main island – also called Karimunjawa – I took a 15-minute
wooden boat ride to Menjangan Besar, the southern part of the archipelago that’s yet to be identified by Google Maps. If the thought of stepping into unfamiliar territory appeals to you, the attraction here would be right up your alley – kids especially will be lured to jump into the two shallow pools to swim next to Menjangan Besar’s famous aquatic residents.
The local fishermen led me to the edge of one of the enclosed pools. Knees wobbling and heart racing, I gingerly descended the metal ladder and dipped in before I could even think of backing out. With slow, steady steps, I waded through the waist-deep turquoise waters to the middle of the enclosure. My presence had stirred the pool’s sleeping creatures. Before I could blink they appeared less than a foot away from me: whitetip reef sharks. They glided and circled around me, as if curious of the lone visitor who had braved their lair. “Don’t move!” shouted one of the fishermen. It sounded like friendly advice but in the face of sharks I took it as a stern command. Then came the follow-up reassurance: “But don’t worry they don’t bite!” Regardless, I stood frozen, my eyes
transfixed on the graceful metrelong dark grey sharks rippling the waters around me. “Woaaaaah!” I shouted after a few minutes when something flicked my leg; scenes from the movie Jaws flashed in my head. The fishermen roared with laughter. I thought one of the sharks had bitten me but it turned out it was just several striped fish swimming too close for comfort. I heaved a sigh of relief, and finally relaxed when a turtle swam near. Eventually the sharks got tired of checking me out and retreated to a corner of the pool. I made my way back up with a fat grin plastered on my face, feeling like I’d just won a Fear Factor challenge.
This spread: The 22-hectare Menyawakan is one of 27 islands in the Karimunjawa archipelago. Inset, from top: Face your fears and swim with sharks in Menjangan Besar; declared a National Park in 1999, Karimunjawa is home to healthy coral reefs
GETTING THERE Despite its seemingly remote location, Karimunjawa can be reached easily from Semarang. Flights and ferries can be booked though hotels or travel agents in Central Java or Karimunjawa. The 40-minute flight from Achmad Yani International Airport lands in Kemujan, north of the main island. Fast ferries depart from Semarang and Jepara (two hours from Semarang city). The three-and-ahalf hour ferry ride departs from Semarang port on Saturday, and leaves Karimunjawa on Sunday; while the two-hour ferry to and from Jepara port operates four times weekly. Tickets cannot be purchased online; it’s best to reserve them through your hotel or travel agent. Add IDR20,000 for the Karimunjawa National Park entrance fee.
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A piece of paradise Over at my beachfront cottage in Kurakura Resort in Menyawakan island, nothing prepared me for the stunning sunset. The reddish-yellow orb was right smack in the middle of my unobstructed view. The best way to take in this golden hour is to laze by the sunloungers on the Sunset Terrace, a viewing platform built about 25m from the shore. Located west of the main island, Kurakura is 50 minutes away by speedboat. This remoteness magnifies its exclusivity; save for mealtime, it’s easy to feel like I’m the only one on the whole 22-hectare island. Some guests even take the experience of isolation to the next level by opting for the Castaway Programme in Krakal Cecil, From top: Karimunjawa’s jaw-dropping sunset; grey, brown and white sand dollars; the crystal-clear waters of Cemara Besar is perfect for snorkelling
Island allure The archipelago boasts great diving opportunities, including wreck diving off Kemujan, north of the main island. But I opted for something more relaxing: snorkelling in Cemara Besar, an hour from Kemujan. This island is a favourite among families for its fine white sand and amazing reef life. The waters are deep blue from our spot next to the boat but it gets clearer and takes on a turquoise hue the closer we get to the sandbar jutting out of the island. Karimunjawa’s vibrant marine life is home to 242 types of colourful fish, but I joked that my only goal is to find Nemo. The clownfish proved elusive, but what we found far exceeded our expectations. I was sunbathing on the sandbar when something pricked the part of my legs that were submerged in the water. “Sand dollars!” I exclaimed. I jumped to my feet upon noticing that we were surrounded by hundreds of live, delicate disc-like creatures blanketed in tiny grey and brown hairs. Sand dollars are classified as echinoderms, like starfish and sea urchins, thus they also sport varied star patterns.
Back in Menyawakan a few hours later, as I sat on the jetty, Alit, a Kurakura staff, came carrying a bag of bread. I grabbed some croissants and tore them into bite sizes before sprinkling them into the water. A feeding frenzy ensued: hundreds of blue-and yellow-striped coralfish descended, feasting on the pastry. “Will they bite me?” wondered Alit out loud, before slipping on her goggles and snorkelling close to the whirl of fish. As I waited for another spectacular sunset, I couldn’t help but recall a quote from travel writer Pico Iyer’s book, The Man Within My Head: “Living with words had moved me to trust most those moments that come only when words run out.” At Karimunjawa, it’s easy to see how nature’s beauty can sometimes defy description.
STAY
Open from April to November, Kurakura Resort (kurakuraresort. com) offers the ultimate escape. This hideaway has 19 villas – including two Family Pool Villas – and 15 cottages that are all facing west for amazing sunsets. The resort provides free trips to Cemara Besar daily, and free use of kayaks and snorkelling equipment. Take note that electricity supply in some hotels on Karimunjawa island runs only from 6pm to 6am. Back in Central Java, Horison Semarang (horisonsemarang.com) is popular among holidaymakers due to its central location. This 165-room hotel has a dedicated Kids’ Club, which makes it ideal for families.
SilkAir flies three times weekly between Singapore and Semarang 16
OPENING SPREAD AND THIS PAGE: KURA KURA RESORT; NELISSA HERNANDEZ; GETTY IMAGES
another island 20 minutes away. There’s no electricity here, but food supplies, lamps and emergency kits are provided. Off-limits to those who aren’t guests of Kurakura, this island is just the Robinson Crusoe escapade for thrill-seeking families: kids will enjoy kayaking, fishing, or just wading in the kneedeep waters of the wide coastal lagoon.