CITY GUIDE
WINDHOEK
YOUR COMPANION TO NAMIBIA S CREATIVE CAPITAL
Editorial An NBIC publication 1st edition, October 2012 Namibia Business Innovation Centre (NBIC) Windhoek, Namibia. Idea & Concept Bernhard Rohkemper Florian Thomas Editor Bernhard Rohkemper Text Justin Jaensch Mustafa Mor Bernhard Rohkemper Florian Thomas
Welcome & Editorial BEHIND THE SCENES Welcome to Windhoek Since independence in 1990 Namibia has slowly but surely been transformed from a sleepy place mostly unrecognised by the rest of the world into one of the shining success stories of Africa. Long overshadowed by its big neighbour South Africa and the economic and political boom and bust elsewhere on the continent, Namibia now arguably is the most liveable country in the region. To witness this remarkable development there is no better place than Windhoek, Namibia s charming capital on a human scale Young minds with an appetite for innovation and keen entrepreneurs ready to make their mark have added tremendously to the business landscape. Now there are more retail, service and dining options than ever before and they are getting more exciting on top of it. We think it s time to showcase the mainstays of innovative Windhoek as well as unearth some hidden gems off the beaten track for both Windhoekites and visitors alike. They are the future of Namibia and the reason why Windhoek is Namibia s creative capital We hope you enjoy reading this little publication and exploring the places and people it features. In case you pick up any errors or want to share your own recommendations with us, please send an email to nbic@polytechnic.edu.na
Bernhard and the NBIC team.
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top: Windhoek seen from the steps of Parliament. bottom: The leafy residential suburb of Klein Windhoek
Layout & Design Bernhard Rohkemper Florian Thomas Photography Mustafa Mor Bernhard Rohkemper Cover Illustration David Linus Icon Design Florian Thomas with icons from the Noun Project thenounproject.com Bus Stop: Marc Serre Compass: P.J. Onori Tag: John Caserta Present: David Goodger Place Setting: Scott Lewis Camera: Stanislav Levin City: Thibault Geffroy
Contents: In this city guide 04-05 06 07 08-09 10-11 12-13 14-15 16-17 18-19 20 21 22-23
Map: Windhoek at a glance Windhoek for N$100: A day in the city on a shoestring Transport: Getting there and around Media & Publishing: Good Namibian reads Crafts & Design: Beautiful things from local crafters Arts & Culture: Windhoek s up-and-coming cultural scene Travel & Tourism: Where to go and where to rest Eat & Drink: Sample Namibian cuisine from early to late Local Food Scene: Delicious products and produce Retail & Business: Small shops making their mark Windhoek West: Namibia s entrepreneurial frontier Souvenirs: Things to buy and gifts to give
NUMBERS TO KNOW Quick facts Windhoek is the capital of Namibia as well as the country s administrative commu nications, and economic centre. It is located amidst the stunning mountain scenery of the Khomas Highlands in central Namibia at around 1,700 metres above sea level. Its 31 suburbs cover around 650 km² and with a population of more than 400.000 people, Windhoek is by far Namibia s largest city An unabated influx of people from around Namibia makes it a hotbed of creativity.
Facts & Contents A CHARMING DESERT TOWN IS COMING OF AGE Namibia s windy capital waits to be explored Windhoek has numerous boroughs and corners that are worth exploring and we encourage you do to so to find your special place in this world of contrasts. However, like in every city, creativity and buzz cluster together and make some areas of town more exciting than others. Our transport overview gives you all the options to getting there and getting around. In the city centre the country culminates in shiny high-rises that share the cityscape with beautiful turnof-the-century homes housing specialty shops, cafĂŠs and independent retailers. To the east, Klein Windhoek attracts visitors with its quiet streets and lush gardens, quaint little bistros and classy restaurants. Plus, we have included a special section on Windhoek West, the city s entrepreneurial frontier and living lab for a better future Start with our special tour to enjoy a day in these neighbourhoods for under N$100. Then, make sure you get your fair share of Katutura from Kapana at Single Quarters to sundowners at Goreangab Dam. If you stay in Windhoek for longer, our lowdown on the media and publishing sector as well as the booming arts and culture scene will tell you what s hot what to read and what to listen to For all those being lucky enough to live in Windhoek, there are some new discoveries to be made when it comes to food and small local producers. Last but not least, what makes Windhoek such a great place to live is its proximity to nature. Within ten minutes you can switch from shopping and culinary adventures to absolute tranquillity We ve listed the best destinations for an outing close to the city to complete your visit to this unpolished urban gem. Be blown away. top right: Obelisk at Heroes Acre bottom: View from Hilton rooftop. Swaying palm tree. Windhoek from afar.
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Florence Nightingale St
Otjomuise Rd
Independence Ave
City Map Western Bypass
City Centre E where smartly dressed business people minT independent retail options and the exciting arts precinct are best explored on foot.
Windhoek West W -and-coming hub of entrepreneurship and innovation constantly adds I diverse crowd of students and expats that fuel a growing education industry.
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Katutura T W township provides the right atmosphere for small artisans that keep enriching the market with their unique goods and services.
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Klein Windhoek & Around Nelson Mandela Ave
H fers to hang out, with countless great dining and deli options, a Saturday market, and cosy cafĂŠs tucked away in lush gardens.
Sam Nujoma Dr
Mandume Ndemufayo Ave
Hosea Kutako Dr
Robert Mugabe Ave
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0800-0900 | N$30 Early bird city Head for the charming Portuguese p창tisserie Lua De Mel to start your day in Windhoek with a sweet Pastel de Nata and a hot Americano. They also have moreish mini quiches if you like it savoury. Sit back and enjoy the Mediterranean vibe from under your parasol. Sam Nujoma Ave, Klein WDH
0900-1000 | N$0 Admire the view
WALK THE TALK Windhoek on foot
Take a short walk over to Parliament gardens or the Hilton hotel s rooftop bar for a good overview of the city from above. Spectacular vistas!
Central Windhoek is perfectly sized for getting around and the best thing is, it s easily navigable on foot While the city s residential areas mostly lack proper pedestrian areas, the downtown neighbourhoods lend themselves to window shopping and strolling from one place to another. So, get out of the car and closer to the people, whose rich diversity gives small Windhoek an almost cosmopolitan vibe.
Windhoek for N$100 1000-1100 | N$0 Botanical garden
1100-1300 | N$6+taxi A morning by the pool
Nature surrounds you wherever you go in Windhoek, but the Botanical Garden has all of Namibia s flora combined Learn something about indigenous plants and their use. Just don t expect lush greenery This is the driest country in Africa south of the Sahara. nbri.org.na
Step up a gear and grab a taxi to the public pool in the sporty Olympia district. They have a sparkling 50m pool for serious exercise and a splash pool for the little ones. Most of the time it s surprisingly empty so you might want to linger a bit on their 체bergreen lawn. Tennis St, Olympia
1400-1600 | N$0 Free art To digest the lunchtime feast, take a walk through the city centre to the arts district around the National Art Gallery. At NAGN and the local French and German cultural centres you always find great exhibitions by Namibian and international artists They don t charge entry fees, so you can visit them all in one afternoon. nagn.org.na fncc.org.na goethe.de/windhoek
1300-1400 | N$46 Student lunch
1600-2200 | N$18+taxi In evening air
At the Polytechnic Hotel School s Aloe restaurant you find Namibian haute cuisine at fast-food rates. Experimenting with local ingredients, chef Ralf and his students surprise guests with a new menu every day. Homemade butternut ravioli or braised lamb anyone? Beethoven St, Windhoek West
Call it a day with an outdoor sundowner at Avis Dam. Grab a few bottles and some munchies from a store along your way, then take a taxi out to where the sun dips into the reservoir. Bliss. For some entertainment later during the evening head back to FNCC or the Goethe Centre. They frequently host free screenings, concerts or other events.
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top: Pastry at Lua de Mel. View of Klein Windhoek. bottom: Olympia pool. Hotel School dish. Botanical Garden.
THE SPIRIT OF NAMIBIA Air Namibia opens new routes to the region Although heavily subsidized with taxpayers money Namibians are proud to have their very own national airline, Air Namibia. This is mainly due to the fact that the company is widely seen as an investment into the tourism industry, as it offers direct connections to and from hubs such as Frankfurt, Johannesburg and Cape Town. In addition to these existing routes Air Namibia recently introduced new direct flights to neighbouring capitals, cutting out tedious and time-consuming layovers in Johannesburg. Tourists and business travellers now also enjoy non-stop connections to Gaborone, Lusaka and Harare, and Windhoekites looking to get out of town for a few days find themselves in Maun or Victoria Falls in no time. Plus, the national Air Namibia network has improved, too. Frequent flights to major coastal and northern hubs increase business links between the capital and other outposts of opportunity. airnamibia.com.na
SLOWING DOWN Train travel Namibian trains are slow but really cheap. So, if you are in for an adventure, pack supplies and board the evening service for Walvis Bay. transnamib.com.na
Transport ON TWO WHEELS Bikes in Katutura
ON A SHOESTRING The city bus system
Cyclists around town and especially in Katutura are reclaiming the streets and promoting a healthy and environmentally friendly lifestyle Plus it s good busi ness, too. Small and innovative tour operator Katutours gets tourists out of their airconditioned buses and onto bicycles by offering guided bike tours of the buzzing neighbourhoods of Katutura. katutours.com
Even more affordable than taxis are the Windhoek city buses (N$6) that ferry workers from Katutura to more affluent neighbourhoods around town and back. Alas, you will only know the timetables and routes if you board random buses that happen to come your way and go wherever they take you It s certainly off the beaten track of the doubledecker tourist buses and as close as you can get to the life of everyday Namibians.
BEN The Bicycle Empowerment Network BEN generates income for local communities with its second-hand bike shops around Namibia. Katutura alone has two shops where you can get an affordable ride. They also do repairs and maintenance and promote bicycle use. benbikes.org.za/namibia
NUMBER GAME Taxis for all Yes, all of those cars honking next to you, with funny numbers like E395 on the sides, are shared taxis. They are plenty and omnipresent, so just lift your arm, tell the driver where you want to go and enter! A drive around the centre of town or to Katutura is N$9 per person and N$18 at night, free taxi music blaring from the speakers included. If you are going to suburbs to the east and south, the fee is N$18 and N$30 at night, respectively.
top: Windhoek train station. left: Katutours bike. centre: Typical Windhoek taxi. bottom: Windhoek city bus.
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CONSOLIDATION SME magazines Entrepreneurs and SMEs are badly needed to shake up the local market dominated by big brands. To give those innovative start-ups inspirations, guidance and exposure, a number of free publications have sprung up over recent years. Thanks to the backing of local SME support organisations it s the SME Gazette that seems to emerge as a lasting quality force among many flyby-nights to champion the cause of small enterprises.
UP TO SPEED Fast Internet arriving The days of notoriously slow Internet at the mercy of South Africa are finally over. A new sea link promises to connect Namibia to the hi-speed world.
Media & Publishing WATCH THIS SPACE Insight Magazine & The Villager Namibia s publication scene is evolving and op tions beyond the traditional dailies make their mark. The monthly Insight magazine wraps up politics, business and society matters with indepth articles that don t shy away from asking critical questions. The recently launched Villager provides a weekly digest of lifestyle, business, education, arts & culture in a newspaper format. insight.com.na thevillager.com.na
INTERVIEW: INSIGHT MAGAZINE Frederico Links, Editor How and why did Insight Magazine come into being? Insight was born eight years ago with the aim of providing its audience with greater depth behind the daily news headlines. How did the magazine evolve since its launch? Despite economic challenges the magazine has grown to a monthly readership of about 20,000 and 1,500 subscriptions. What's the biggest challenge to start a publication in Namibia? Undoubtedly skills! Journalistic skills, but also sales and marketing skills, are hard to find in Namibia and competition for skills is high.
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This spread: Covers of Namibian newspapers and mags.
LANGUAGE WISE Newspapers For only about 2 million people Namibia has a surprising range of newspapers, offering readers reporting diversity on current affairs. Government: The English daily New Era is owned by the Namibian government but doesn t shy away from scrutinizing its shareholder. Lingua Franca: Republikein has a wide and diverse readership thanks to it being published in Afrikaans, still Namibia s lingua franca It also has bits and pieces in English language. Oldest: The Allgemeine Zeitung taps into the well-to-do German-speaking part of the market ever since 1916. Largest: The Namibian publishes in English and Oshiwambo and sells about 10.000 copies every day. It was established in 1985 and prides itself in independent and critical writing. Weekly: Once a week you can get Informante for your quick intake of tabloid fare, or the Windhoek Observer with a wrap-up of social life, politics and economics.
RECOMMENDED Namibian reads Atlas of Namibia John Mendelsohn A portrait in photos and maps.
The Colonising Camera Wolfram Hartmann Photographs of Namibian history.
Desert Journey Christine Marais A book of beautiful postcards.
A History of Namibia Marion Wallace All about Nam pre and post 1990.
An Arid Eden Garth Owen Smith The conservationist bible about Namibia s untamed northwest
TREASURE TROVE Orumbonde Books
NEW KID Wordweaver Publishing
LOCAL CUISINE My hungry heart
With growing environmental concerns and a palpable crave for vintage, secondhand goods are finally getting more attention in Windhoek. Head straight for the intimate Orumbonde bookstore for a steady supply of previously loved reads from Namibia and around. The titles on offer span a number of languages and genres. Be it a coffee table books with an elegant patina or French fiction, the knowledgeable team will help you find it. Old Breweries, Tal St
To help talented Namibian writers reach a wider audience both locally and internationally avid author and publisher Bryony van der Merwe recently founded boutique publishing house Wordweaver. Unlike most Namibian publishers focusing on educational titles she mainly targets children s books as well as adult fiction and short story collections, which are widely distributed to bookshops around the country. wordweaverpublishing.com
With her expertly curated cookery book My hungry heart Antoinette de Chavonnes Vrugt provides the recipes for Namibia s burgeoning culinary scene. Finally, local specialties like biltong, Omajova mushrooms and butternut get the attention they deserve. Find out how to prepare caramelised sweet potatoes with oranges, Swakopmund seafood soup or Kalahari truffle risotto with this award-winning book.
THRIFT PACK Free map collection Head for any tourism office in Windhoek to pick up your free map collection. It includes maps of northern and southern Namibia as well as the coast and, of course, Windhoek. They obviously make their money via advertising, which isn't a bad thing, as some of your destinations are indicated already.
left: At Orumbonde books. right: Weaver bird. My hungry heart cover. Making plans with the free map collection.
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A HOME FOR CRAFTS AND DESIGN The Namibia Crafts Centre at Old Breweries You don t have time for a journey of the entire country but still want to get an arts and crafts tour through all of Namibia? Look no further than the Namibia Crafts Centre at the Old Breweries complex, which offers a glimpse of traditional and modern products from all 13 regions in a relaxed atmosphere. The colourful and unique style of Namibian creativity is made visible in a wide range of local hand-crafted souvenirs. Bracelets from Opuwo, baskets from Ondangwa, or San-inspired fabrics are just some of the beautiful items on offer. The Crafts Centre showcases dozens of small crafters and their wares under one roof, and while you obviously pay a premium on products, souvenir shopping is nowhere as easy and variety as big as here Plus you don t have to endure imported kitsch that might be shiny but not Namibian at all. The centre also assists start-ups in the arts and crafts field with product development and marketing. Also includes a well-stocked book store! Old Breweries Complex, 40 Tal Street
Crafts & Design INDEPENDENT Downtown crafters
FAIR TRADE Omba Arts Trust Established to empower marginalised Namibian ethnic groups, Omba Arts Trust supports rural crafters by improving market access for their unique, handmade crafts. Staff members are also out in the regions an a regular basis to provide trainings for a group of Kavango women or some members of the San community, admired for their ostrich egg shell jewellery range. Sold at the Namibia Crafts Centre. omba.org.na
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When exploring downtown Windhoek make sure you plan for ample time to shop at the many street vendors offering Namibian arts and crafts. Most of them produce their wares themselves right here in Windhoek and you might be lucky to see them at work at the point of sale. If you want a specific design, they will happily assist. We especially love the quirky wire radios and metal animals from scrap material Don t forget to bargain
top right: Namibian jewellery. left: Traditional baskets. right: Vistorina of Gwaitalale. bottom: Street vendors.
INTERVIEW Gwaitalale Pottery Vistorina, when did you start your pottery business? I learned the basics from a Dutch woman back in 2009. I then attended classes at the College of the Arts to improve my skills. Now, I always create new designs for products myself. What was your biggest success so far? When Xwama restaurant approached me to supply them with all their crockery. That was a huge appreciation of my work. Any challenges? Reaching costumers is very difficult I don t have a store and my pottery workshop, which I run from home, is far away from town. Lairige St, Katutura
RECYCLED DESIGN Two artisans who bring new life to old material Recycling seems to be moving ever higher up on the Namibian design agenda. Inspired by famed lodge architect Trevor Nott and other champions of environmentally friendly buildings and interiors, more and more crafters are embracing the art-from-scrap trend. On of them is Catherine Opperman, who has recently launched her own business Poetry to make use of old goods to create beautiful objects. She started by turning old picture frames into new ones with a vintage feel. Now, her business has grown to an outlet with five employees. Another design-savvy recycling artist is Mushimba Silvanus Naqushe. He uses mainly reclaimed wood from transport skids and discarded metal drums to create benches, stools and his signature rocking chairs. The former soldier in the Namibian Defence Force has chosen the tagline no drums but dreams as vision for his small company. Catherine Opperman: poetry.windhoek@gmail.com Silvanus Nakushe: snmushimba@gmail.com
COMING SOON FabLab Namibia
YOUR OWN DESIGN 2 Leather goods
Good news for designers and small business owners: the global FabLab movement opens its first and muchawaited branch in Windhoek. The Fabrication Laboratory at the NBIC Innovation Village in Windhoek West will have all the machinery, tools and mentorship to create prototypes of almost anything. It will be run by husband-andwife designer team Bjorn and Kirstin Wiedow.
Skilled crafters around the country transform leather from calf to kudu into wonderful fashion accessories and luxurious document cases.
1-3 Gluck St, Windhoek West
YOUR OWN DESIGN 1 Ibenstein Weavers Order yourself a beautiful carpet made from Namibian Karakul wool on old looms at Ibenstein Weavers in Dordabis. ibenstein-weavers.com.na
EXCURSION Penduka at Goreangab Dam A longstanding fixture in the Namibian crafts scene, Penduka at Goreangab Dam is a small city within the city with an on-site restaurant, a gorgeous sundowner pontoon and cosy rondavels to stay the night. Penduka, meaning wake up, started in 1992 as a support organisation for women from Katutura and has since developed into a large producer of embroidery, beads and other crafts, providing work for 660+ people. penduka.com
top left: Recycled furniture. centre: Design to order. left: At FabLab. bottom: The sundowner deck at Penduka.
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CENTRE OF EXCELLENCE FNCC & Goethe Centre Few organisations drive developments in the Windhoek arts scene with as much dedication as the FNCC and the Goethe Centre. With shoestring budgets they time and again manage to put together impressive itineraries of exhibitions, concerts and movie screenings, bringing contemporary Namibian and international art to the people. They both have libraries and on-site cafĂŠs, too. fncc.org.na goethe.de/windhoek
LOCAL ENDOWMENT National Art Gallery
INTERVIEW Kirsten Wechslberger
The National Art Gallery in John Meinert St displays a wide range of post-Apartheid art in its expansive permanent exhibition. Entry is free. nagn.org.na
Being weird is normal! Sit in a glass box in a mall and let people comment on it. Spend months arranging beads on masses of strings and then let people destroy it within seconds That s what performance artist Kirsten Wechslberger does.
Arts & Culture ARTIST OF NOTE 3 Alfeus Mvula Alfeus Mvula mainly works on his signature soapstone sculptures influenced by life and experiences of his rural upbringing in Oyovu village.
ARTIST OF NOTE 1 Erick Schnack
ARTIST OF NOTE 4 Foibe Amundaba
College of the Arts lecturer Erick Schnack is the creator of fascinating kinetic multimedia installations assembled from found material, interacting with movie and sound.
Foibe Amundaba is a young Namibian artist and craftsperson with a passion to experiment. Her surrealist paintings are mostly created without prior planning or sketches.
ARTIST OF NOTE 2 Sigi Kolbe Born in Namibia, grown up in South Africa and educated in London, cosmopolitan Sigi Kolbe combines photos and digital art into unique stills.
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top: FNCC entrance. top right: Butterflies at Goethe Centre. left and bottom: Artists of note and their products.
What do you want to communicate with your art? It is all about social issues. I want to wake people up and make them aware and conscious about what they are doing and how they behave. Everybody sticks to his habits, labels people on patterns and easily destroys relationships built up for years. What does being creative & different mean to you? I do these performances because I like it and I realized that being weird is normal to me That s why I never get along with normal routines. I just enjoy provoking and shaking people out of their comfort zones. Which problems are you facing as an artist? Money! Performance art mostly doesn t bring in any money and takes a lot of time to prepare. Sometimes I am also not sure if I have the technical skills to realize all the grand ideas I have. But I just try it anyway and grow with the challenges.
RECOMMENDED Namibian tunes New page Afro pop by Uno Boy
Inarimari-e? Damara Punch by Mannetjie Zulu
Letter from the president Afro pop by Mushe
Ou stakes Damara Punch by Xoro Maire
Black bantu child African Fusion by Mushaandja
Munkwatele mwanange Shambo by Mafuta
ON STAGE Windhoek Theatres Given its small population, Windhoek offers an impressive array of theatres. Here are the stages we love. Backstage Dinner Theatre: The latest addition to the capital s theatre scene offers theatre plays and comedy shows with dinner. 99fm Playhouse Theatre: This private theatre is part of the old Breweries Complex in the city centre. It doubles as a cultural centre, event space and art gallery. National Theatre: The largest professional theatre in Windhoek offers a mix of popular concert and show productions each year. BW Theatre School: Visit the monthly poetry slams or get creative yourself at this young and energetic off-beat theatre.
HOMECOMING Shishani
ART IN THE MAKING Camel Stable & KCAC
It definitely is for a good reason that the Namibian-born singersongwriter Shishani has taken the country by storm over the past months. Just listen to that powerful and smooth voice! The 24-year old artist left her motherland at the age of five and grew up in the Netherlands, where she currently lives. Over the years she has collaborated with various artists and performed in different countries around the globe. Now, she returns regularly to delight her loyal following in Namibia. At the 2012 Namibian Annual Music Awards she won accolades for her song Minority in the best single category.
Community Arts Centre: The Katutura Community Arts Centre KCAC has transformed a bleak Apartheid-era migrant workers complex into a universe of art and creative thinking. It offers classrooms, studios and exhibition space for artists and artisans to create an eclectic mix of music, dance, drama and visual arts. Leonard Auala St, Katutura Camel Stable Art Studio: Since some of Windhoek s oldest buildings are the cradle of some of the country s most contemporary art. The stables are home to crafters, sculptors, designers and jewellers. Hugel St, City
top: Recommended music. left: National Theatre entrance. right: Shishani. The KCAC Boiler House.
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ACCOMMODATION Best rests Windhoek offers everything from luxury hotels to adventure camping. Our picks: Boutique: The Olive Exclusive is a contemporary oasis with exceptional service and food. theolive-namibia.com Nature: Unwind in your private en-suite rondavel overlooking a beautiful lake and the surrounding hills at Penduka. penduka.com Adventure: Urban Camp offers a uniquely Namibian outdoor experience in the centre of
town, close to restaurants, bars and shops. Great budget option! urbancamp.net Luxury: Towering high above the city centre is the spanking new Hilton, complete with super sleek interiors and a rooftop pool. hilton.com/windhoek
Travel & Tourism WALK THE TALK Kasie Adventures
TURA BY BIKE Katutours Get closer to the people and explore Katutura in an environmentally friendly way. Thanks to social entrepreneur Anna Mafwila and her innovative company Katutours, locals and visitors can now tour Windhoek s former township on a bicycle. Along the way you experience what life for the majority of Namibians is like. With stops at shops and open markets Katutours supports small local entrepreneurs, too. katuturatours.com
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The energetic troupe at Kasie Adventures takes people out of their cars and buses and into the streets of Katutura. In small groups of three per tour guide visitors learn about Namibian customs and cultures and daily life in the kasie, meaning neighbourhood in local slang. Walking tours are complemented by the occasional taxi ride to give participants a feel for the capital s main mode of transport. +264 (0)81 7754835
top: Penduka rondavel. Hilton. Urban Camp. Penduka detail. left: Anna of Katutours. right: Katutura. Habitat Centre gate.
GREEN SANCTUARY Habitat Centre Often overlooked by locals in Katutura and event planners in the city, the Habitat Centre is probably the most unique venue for workshops and conferences in Windhoek. Built entirely from recycled and alternative material, the huge complex offers ample space for leisurely walks, lunchtime naps and informal meetings in cosy nooks and shaded alcoves. It also features an awesome amphitheatre for performances and movie screenings, as well as a small library. Solar energy and biogas systems add to the eco design and keep energy consumption low. Ask for a free tour of the centre. Claudius Kandovazu St
GETTING AWAY FROM IT ALL 4 recommended tours just outside town Windhoek is all about being out in the most beautiful countryside in no time. There are a lot of attractions around the capital that wait to be explored, places where you can hike for hours, enjoy a stunning sunset or simply inhale the breathtaking panorama. But make sure you bring some time to appreciate nature s bounty to the fullest
IN THE CALENDAR Annual Events
WINDHOEK S NATIONAL PARK Hiking at Daan Viljoen
Namibia Tourism Expo One of Namibia s biggest expos stands out from the crowd of mediocre trade fairs around the country with a host of innovative business ventures that make you want to travel immediately. It takes place every year in June at the Show Grounds. Windhoek Jazz Festival The Jazz Festival is the cultural highlight in Windhoek. Local newcomers and international superstars deliver exciting performances at this summertime event. Namrock Festival An absolute must for music lovers, Namrock touches down with a 20 bands strong line-up each September. Oktoberfest Windhoek Grab a beer and savour German fare at Africa s most authentic Oktoberfest.
Finally, Daan Viljoen Park is open to the public again with upgraded facilities and a brand-new lodge for those who want to stay the night It s a favourite weekend destination for Windhoekites seeking solitude and relaxation during a serious hike through rugged terrain. After some good exercise, enjoy the stunning vistas of Windhoek.
DOGGY PARADISE Avis Dam Pack the kids and a well-stocked picnic basket, put on your hiking boots and head out to Avis Dam on the fringes of Windhoek s eastern suburbs It s always open, so expect people walking their dogs from dawn to dusk. With easy hikes and great viewpoints this birding paradise is the perfect destination for impromptu family outings.
EERIE EVENING DRIVE A sundowner at the Haunted House It seems strange that the stately Liebig House just a few kilometers outside Windhoek has been unoccupied for years now and reached a stage of irreversible decay. Only the walls, wooden floors and roof are left of this colonial mansion, but views are still splendid, making it a very special sundowner destination with a ghostly twist.
EXERCISE WITH A VIEW Hikes from your home If you are fortunate enough to call a home in Kleine Kuppe, Eros, Klein Windhoek or Ludwigsdorf your own, you can embark on endless strolls through the adjacent hills right from your doorstep. Even if you have to drive in from further afield, these meanders are worth checking out for soothing afterwork exercise far from overcrowded gyms. left: Windhoek events. right: Lake at Daan Viljoen. Viewpoint at Avis Dam. Haunted house. Windhoek hills at dusk.
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EPICUREAN DAYTIME DELIGHTS Best breakfast spots and lunchtime hang-outs When it comes to morning munchies or a quick snack for lunch, Windhoek is hard to beat. Plenty of cafés and bistros have upped their game over recent years and now offer an amazing variety to suit every palate. Craft Café: A vegetarian s dream this intimate café offers a unique menu balancing many healthy choices with old-world indulgence like Baked Cheesecake and homemade bread. Try their lemonade! Blue Frog: This daytime restaurant brings French savoir-vivre to Windhoek. The menu is carefully curated with a number of yummy FrancoNamibian dishes, which are well received by the local expat clientele. Fresh & Wild: Thanks to the chic but unfussy approach that resonates well with the culinary in-crowd, Fresh & Wild has grown to three outlets around Windhoek. We still love the Liliencron St garden setting, though. Cicada: Almost impossible to find except for those in the know, Cicada hides amidst lush greenery at the Wilde Eend nursery in Klein Windhoek. Escape here for an afternoon of reading and Lemon Meringue Pie.
Eat & Drink KAPANA & CO. Single Quarters
HELLO MY LOVIES The Burger Meme
Kapana, small slices of meat roasted over an open fire, is what keeps people going over lunch or after a night out. Pay a visit to Single Quarters market for your portion, served with addictive secret-recipe Kapana spice, tomato salad and greasy Vetkoek buns. Shanghai St, Katutura
You will never want to enter a dull fast-food outlet again after a visit to the big lady with her downtown burger stall. The most entertaining lunch in town with grins and smiles all around will make your day. Burgers are oh-so moreish and at under N$20 a real bargain. John Meinert St, opp. Namdeb
SEASIDE RETREAT Fishmonger s Finally! A fish bistro that brings the bliss of coastal retreats to the capital. Make sure you are there well in time before 13:00 to secure one of the benches outside in the courtyard. Order a glass of cold white while you wait for your portion of fish and chips. Best fries in town! Adler St, Windhoek West
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top: Windhoek cafés. centre: Stellenbosch Wine Bar. bottom: Fresh burger Kapana stall Fishmonger s sign
BEST RESTAURANT Stellenbosch Stellenbosch Wine Bar has redefined dining out in Windhoek. Namibian and South African fare is served in a rustic yet elegant setting with impeccable service. Book a wine tasting to get the full experience. Bougain Villas, Klein WDH
TWO MORE Sardinia Book in advance for an evening of homemade pasta and addictive Tiramisu. Independence Ave, City
Xwama Traditional Namibian meals from Marathon Chicken to spicy Mopane worms. Independence Ave, Katutura
INTERVIEW Stephan Brückner, MD at NICE Restaurant
CALL IT A DAY Best sundowner spots To celebrate the end of the working day, Windhoekites flock to these favourite sundowner spots for a drink: Hilton Rooftop Bar: Stunning vistas from high above the city and a modern interior design keep young professionals coming back for more. Hotel Thule: The preferred place to unwind for Klein Windhoek families after a walk through the neighbourhood. Wine Bar: Frequented by a young and diverse crowd of locals and expats for their huge international wine list. River Crossing Lodge: Just a few minutes outside Windhoek but worlds away. Admire the city from the bushveld. Heroes Acre Grab a beer at the restaurant and hike up to the top of this imposing monument south of the city.
A lot of people know this restaurant in a red house next to the Polytechnic of Namibia. But do you know that this place differs a lot from all other restaurants and bars in town? Stephan Brückner, the NICE Managing Director, told us about their training concept: Why NICE? The Namibian Institute of Culinary Education! And that is what we stand for: being Namibia s leading organisa tion offering high-class vocational training in hospitality. Why are you offering vocational training? HR is the bottleneck in the Namibian hospitality industry! All restaurants and lodges have problems to find well-trained staff. To solve this problem at our lodges we decided to offer training ourselves. Other players in the market should do the same! Training is key. What is different at NICE? All students first rotate from kitchen to service to hotel. Only after that do they decide which field they want to specialize in. Any plans for the future? There are a lot of things to do! We want to build a small hotel and extend our training concept to our lodge as well as to other places. And you will be excited about our backyard vegetable garden, which is going to be launched soon! nice.com.na
MEET THE SPANIARDS Qué Tapas
HOW TO Make a Rock Shandy
Whenever you feel like some leisurely eating and a glass of red or cold cerveza, head for Qué Tapas at Maerua Mall. If the Spanish regulars you can meet here any evening of the week are anything to go by, the tapas on offer are authentic Iberian fare. Try a portion of tortilla and some olives!
To prepare this quintessential Namibian sundowner put a liberal amount of ice cubes into a large beer glass. Fill half with lemonade, then top up with another half of soda water. Use Ginger Ale instead for extra sweetness. Add a dash of Angostura bitters and a slice of lemon. Sun in a glass!
top: Entrance to NICE. centre: Windhoek sunset. View from Thule. bottom: Qué Tapas. Rock Shandy. Angostura bitters.
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SATURDAY SUN Green Market A long-time favourite of Windhoek s German-speaking community, the Green Market in Klein Windhoek is the perfect place to start your culinary Saturday. Farms from around Windhoek and further afield offer everything from sourdough bread to antipasti to organic dairy products at this neat little affair. After your shopping, get a seat under one of the red umbrellas in the on-site pop-up cafĂŠ. c/o Uhland & Berg St
TRADITIONAL Single Quarters
FAIR GAME Namibian meat
If you are looking for traditional fresh and dried produce from Namibia s northern re gions, Single Quarters market in Katutura is the place to go. Shanghai St, Katutura
The outstanding quality of Namibian beef and game, most of it free range and organic, will convert even die-hard vegetarians to carnivore pleasures. Only problem is, you will never be able to enjoy any of the massproduced junk meat elsewhere in the world. Try to taste Oryx, zebra and kudu!
Local Food Scene HOME DELIVERY Organic Box Scheme
LOCAL AND LEKKER MoiYa Artisan Deli The Village at Liliencron St is fast developing into foodie central. Just across the garden from Fresh & Wild MoiYa Artisan Deli has opened its doors to attract all those looking for luxury fast food and a serious caffeine fix. For the latter they only use Slowtown beans from Swakopmund. And, as a proper deli, MoiYa obviously has tons of cheese, chocolate, olive oil and artisan bread to take away and enjoy at home. The Village, Liliencron St
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The organic box scheme concept has arrived in Windhoek. We are amazed by the freshness and the affordability. From now on we'll be looking forward to Thursdays even more, as that is the day the guys from Organic Box come to town. Receive your order invite by Saturday, order by Monday and wait for your supply of feta cheese, farm fresh milk, baby spinach and other natural goodness. organic-box.com
top: Namibian melon. Single Quarters. Cattle. bottom: Quirky lighting. Lettuce. Omajovas. Lemon and mint cooler.
SPECIALTIES From Namibian soil All those with an insatiable appetite for local products are constantly on the hunt for Namibia s only-in-season delicacies, such as the tasty Kalahari Truffles, or wonderfully firm Omajova mushrooms, which are large enough to be turned into vegetarian steaks. Fortunately, some of the goodness from Namibian soil is available throughout the year in the form of lemon marmalade, homemade chutneys or prickly pear syrup. So make sure you have friends with a farm to provide all this for you.
ACCORDING TO GERMAN PURITY LAW Namibian beer
MICROBREW Camelthorn The global microbrewing trend did not go unnoticed in Namibia. Ever since 2009 the guys at Camelthorn Brewing Company are supplying the Namibian malt and hops connoisseur with their delicious craft beers. They have a variety of brews on offer but most popular are the true Bavarian-style Weizen as well as the easy-drinking Sundowner Beer. Camelthorn beer is available directly at the company s Prosperita production plant or on tap at selected pubs and bars around the country. They also do brewery tours! camelthornbrewing.com
UNCORKED The Wine Bar Namibia is not only about beer! Wine lovers are equally plentiful, as are wine outlets and tasting rooms. Check the Wine Bar for an everchanging wine list or the occasional tasting evening in their awesome setting with a view of the city. thewinebarshop.com
Thanks to Namibia Breweries Namibia is widely regarded as the beer paradise on the African continent and arguably has some of the best beers in the southern hemisphere. The company can trace its brewing heritage back to 1904 and still produces most of its beer according to the German Beer Purity Law of 1516, the so-called Reinheitsgebot, using only water, hops and barley. Apart from the famous Windhoek Lager the city s signature beer Namibia Breweries also offers Windhoek Light and Windhoek Draught, as well as Tafel Lager and the seasonal Urbock. In addition, many lodges and larger pubs spoil their guests with Hansa Draught, a slightly bitter brew that is only available on tap. Apart from being widely available in many African markets, especially Windhoek Lager can now also be enjoyed overseas. Check your local outlets in Sweden, the UK, Australia, New Zealand, and even brewery-saturated Germany for the green Windhoek bottles. namibiabreweries.com
COASTAL COFFEE Slowtown Windhoek
ITALIAN FARE Olive oil and pasta
A country that cherishes tea with generous amounts of sugar, Namibia has only recently started to embrace coffee culture. Enter Slowtown Coffee Roasters from Swakopmund. The trend has rapidly spread to the capital with more and more baristas and quality retail outlets joining in. Stockists in Windhoek include Fruit & Veg City, Pure & Simple, and MoiYa Artisan Deli. slowtowncoffee.com
When you consider buying a bottle of imported olive oil from the Med the next time, think twice and go for the local option instead. Ruhleben single variety olive oil is produced from locally grown olives in Swakopmund. It is also the perfect match for Pasta la Vita, Namibia s very own quality drum wheat pasta brand, produced according to an Italian recipe by Namib Mills in Windhoek. At leading retailers.
NEW FLAVOURS Foodie events at the Taste Academy If you are in for some excitement for your taste buds every now and then join the N a an ku sĂŞ Taste Academy on Facebook. top: Windhoek Lager. middle: Slowtown sign. Pasta la Vita. Ruhleben oil can. bottom: Camelthorn brew.
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START-UP CENTRAL New businesses
FINANCE FOR BIZ DBN and Kongalend
Although starting a business in Namibia can be a tedious process, if WEF and World Bank rankings are anything to go by, opportunities for SMEs abound. Competition is low or non-existent, average incomes are growing, and customers are longing for proper service and exciting products. Nowhere is this more apparent than in Windhoek, where more businesses open each year than in any other region in Namibia It s start-up central.
Getting the required start-up finance is now much easier than ever before. The Development Bank of Namibia (DBN) provides a number of different finance products at special conditions, including interest-free loans through its innovation fund. Kongalend, a private lender, specialises in loans for renewable energy projects and SMEs. And with a dedicated SME bank set to open soon, more money will be available for new ventures.
Retail & Business FRESH CUT Flowered Earth There are few places in Windhoek where so much effort goes into creating a feel-good shopping experience like at Flowered Earth. The small florist doubles as a gift and decor shop with a well-curated selection of paraphernalia for the design enthusiast. Maerua Lifestyle Centre
PREVIOUSLY LOVED Otto s Antiques
WALK-IN HOME STORE Impressions
Tucked away in an alley in Southern Industrial you'll find the very unusual antiques and backyard junk dealer Otto's. The huge shop in a colonial era theatre building houses everything you can imagine from the fashionable and useful to the utterly useless and kitsch. Macadam St, Southern
The wonderfully furnished spaces at the Impressions showroom make you want to move in immediately. Everything down to the earthenware spells pure interior bliss. Think of it as a boutique version of Namibian home design emporium Weylandts. c/0 Bismarck & Fidel Castro St
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top right: Signs at Pure & Simple. left: Otto s sign Fresh flowers from Flowered Earth. At Pure & Simple.
INTERVIEW Pure & Simple The four women of Pure & Simple started their made-inNamibia shop to sell only useful and handsome home and beauty products. We talked to them at their airy cafĂŠ-cum-shop. How was the idea of Pure & Simple created? We opened Pure & Simple in 2011 to offer an alternative to traditional crafts outlets because we think there is a growing customer base that wants more unique products they can t get elsewhere What makes your shop concept unique in Windhoek? Our small outlet is organised into different colour sections. The moment you enter the shop you will be attracted by your favourite colour. Whether one prefers blue, yellow, green or red, there are plenty of beautiful items in every colour. How do you choose products for your shop? We design most of the things ourselves and then ask local crafters to produce them for us. 90 percent of our goods are made in Namibia, mostly in Windhoek. What can we expect from Pure & Simple in future? We have a changing exhibition by Namibian artists in the shop, so we are always busy preparing the next show There s a new collabo ration every three months! Garten St, City
NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH Namibia s entrepreneurial frontier With its ideal location at the centre of a re-unified post-Apartheid city, Windhoek West is emerging as the melting pot of people, ideas and trends in the capital. And because a host of support organisations have set up shop in the west over the past years, the leafy mixed-use neighbourhood is now a hotbed of entrepreneurship and innovation. Turn to the following if you want to join the start-up train: CED: The Polytechnic s Centre for Entrepreneurship Development offers a range of short courses to get small business ventures around the country up to scratch and ahead of the competition. IMLT: The small non-profit provides training and capacity building programmes to SMEs, including their signature business simulation. NBIC: As the national innovation centre NBIC pioneers new ideas, concepts and start-up support formats to build creative Namibia. SMEs Compete: This private consultancy firm helps Namibian SMEs to grow their business with dedicated training and mentoring products.
GOING OUT Food in the west Thanks to a growing and demanding number of white collar workers and business people, Windhoek West is home to a great mix of eatout options. NICE: Moreish lunches, afterwork beers, sushi treats and fine dining in a modern yet relaxed setting. Aloe: The Polytechnic s Hotel School restaurant amazes with an exceptional lunch menu from the training kitchen. Served in a quiet courtyard setting. Fusion: Indulge in traditional Namibian cuisine fused with fresh influences from the Cape as well as European and Asian dishes. NBIC Innovation CafĂŠ: This much-awaited daytime eatery will open its doors to the start-up crowd early 2013.
Windhoek West HIGHER EDUCATION Polytechnic of Namibia At the heart of Windhoek West and the driver of many developments in the area is the Polytechnic of Namibia. The university has grown considerably since 1994 and now boasts students It s also the darling of the local business community.
CREATIVE INDUSTRIES Media and PR Attracted by the creative Polytech environment and proximity to the city centre, Windhoek West is the location of choice for media outlets and the PR industry. Meet the likes of the Namibian newspaper, One Africa TV and Advantage Y&R.
INTERNATIONAL DEVELOPMENT Global meets local Thanks to all its amenities Windhoek is Africa s post of choice for employees of international organisations. The community meets in the west with Germany s GIZ and FES HQs firmly estab lished, the Spaniards and MCA around the corner.
top right: NBIC mural. NBIC entrepreneurs. left: Food in the west. right: Polytechnic, Saatchi & Saatchi. Cooperation.
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MADE TO LAST A Karakul carpet
VILLAGE STATIONERY Mahangu paper
NAMIBIA IN A JAR Chutneys & Co.
A beautiful, hand-woven Karakul carpet turns every house into a home. Made from Namibian wool and according to your own design!
Mahangu is not only a staple food for the people in Namibia s north It also works wonders in the form of greeting cards and coarse paper.
COASTAL ROAST Slowtown coffee
OFFICE COMPANION A leather case
Namibia doesn't grow coffee, but the artisan roasters at Slowtown know how to turn imported beans into amazing aromas for the local cuppa.
See your colleagues green with envy when you give bland documents a fashionable cover with a luxury leather case made in Namibia.
Take the wonderful flavours of Namibia home to re-live the experience of your journey. Tomato chutney, lemon syrup or onion marmalade are mostly produced in small quantities by local foodies and farmers and sold at delicatessen outlets and organic markets around town.
Souvenirs VERSATILE GADGET A wire basket
SNUG LIKE A BUG A Kalahari silk scarf
It doesn t happen often that you buy one product that turns out to actually be a complete set of products. This wire basket can be transformed into a vase, a tray, a bowl, and many other shapes to suit your need, mood and liking. Plus, it will keep you busy forever. From local street vendors
Valued by Namibians for keeping warm on those long, cold winter evenings, scarves made from raw silk harvested in the Kalahari double as the ultimate fashion statement in support of local material and producers. They come in different sizes and natural colours. Namibia Crafts Centre
DESERT FLAVOUR Ruhleben olive oil
NAMIBIA ILLUSTRATED A postcard book
Elevate salads and pesto to a new level with olive oil that tastes like the real deal. Grown in the bed of the Swakop river, olives are pressed cold on site and sold in containers and smaller bottles at outlets around the country. Whole olives from the same estate are also available.
Gifted illustrator Christine Marais has spent a good part of her live producing detailed, whimsical drawings of the Namibian flora, fauna and architectural heritage. Some of her artistic work has been turned into a comprehensive postcard book. Namibia Crafts Centre
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QUIRKY CROCKERY Mugs from Gwaitalale Open your own little pop-up restaurant at home with meals served on custom-made crockery from Gwaitalale pottery. They already supply some of the more innovative eateries in the country, so you will be in good company with their rustic cups, mugs and plates.
CLEAN CUT Katutura soap The ladies at the Katutura Soap Factory cook up a storm every day to bring us their natural soaps infused with Namibian olive oil and Mahangu. Soaps come in chunky bars for everyday use, small disks for special guests, or as floral gift ornaments. katuturaproject.blogspot.com
HAND-WOVEN Plenty of baskets One can never have too many of these versatile, robust and charmingly bucolic baskets from Namibia s north They never fail to impress, be it as laundry basket, fruit bowl or simply as a piece of decorative art. We love the plain ones without patterns that best bring out the natural colours.
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GO OUT AND EXPLORE THE CITY!
SPACE FOR YOUR NOTES
HELP US SPREAD THE WORD! ORDER MORE COPIES OF THE WINDHOEK CITY GUIDE FROM NBIC AT NBIC.ORG.NA