Salonfocus Autumn 2023

TYPICAL ME

Neurodivergent

and working in hair and beauty

P26: TOXIC CULTURE

How to decontaminate your salon for a better working environment

P32: ALLERGY TESTING

Protect your clients and your business with regular testing

P36: CYBER SECURITY

How vulnerable are you to phishing and ransomware attacks?

P39: STAFF RETENTION

Hold on to top talent with the right pay, conditions and culture

THE

THE BUSINESS

THE

The magazine of the National Hair & Beauty Federation

THE NHBF

One Abbey Court Fraser Road

Priory Business Park Bedford MK44 3WH 01234 831965 nhbf.co.uk sfenquiries@salonfocus.co.uk

CHIEF EXECUTIVE

Richard Lambert

DIGITAL MARKETING DIRECTOR

Samantha Turner-Meyern

EDITORIAL

Editor Hollie Ewers hollie@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk

Content sub-editors James Hundleby, Kate Bennett, Amy Beveridge

DESIGN

Art Editor Tom Shone

Picture researcher Jessica Marsh

ADVERTISING advertising@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk

020 7880 6230

PRODUCTION

Production director Jane Easterman

Account director Joanna Marsh joanna.marsh@redactive.co.uk

PRINTER

Manson Group, St Albans

COVER ILLUSTRATION

Shutterstock

© The NHBF 2023

All views expressed in salonfocus are not necessarily those of the NHBF. All efforts have been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information published in salonfocus However, the publisher accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or errors and omissions in the information produced in this publication. No information contained in this publication may be used or reproduced without the prior permission of the NHBF.

Recycle your magazine’s plastic wrap. Check your local LDPE facilities to find out how.

WINNER

SOME OF OUR SECTOR’S MOST SUCCESSFUL MEMBERS ARE NEURODIVERGENT

their skills, it’s also a rewarding way to progress your own career and add another string to your bow.

The start of autumn brings that ‘back-toschool’ feeling – and also presents an opportunity for our industry to continue on its learning journey.

To those students who recently got their GCSE results and are embarking on their careers in the hair and beauty sector – congratulations, and welcome. You represent the future of our industry and bring the energy, creativity and dedication needed to keep it fresh.

And it’s an exciting time to be joining. I attended Pro Beauty last week and it was fantastic to see so many of you there, learning, sharing knowledge and refreshing your kit bags. There are so many rising stars making their mark, too, and I can’t wait to recognise our industry’s most exciting influencers at our Top 100 Index awards in November (page 13). Whether you’re just starting out or you’re a professional with lots of experience, education should never stop. And some of our more seasoned members might be considering imparting their wisdom and helping to nurture the next generation of hair stylists, barbers or beauty therapists. If that’s you, turn to page 42 for our ‘How to’ feature on becoming an educator. Not only is it a great way to help others enhance

I’ve always been proud that our professions attract and suit a variety of people from different backgrounds. In this issue we are celebrating that with our cover feature, which explores neurodiversity in the industry. It’s clear that, despite facing challenges, some of the most successful, creative and inspiring members of our sector are neurodivergent. Find out on page 20 how to help team members with conditions including ADHD, dyslexia and autism thrive at work.

In a similar vein, we’re pleased to include the Menopause Support booklet with this issue of salonfocus It’s designed to help everyone identify and understand this oftenoverwhelming stage of life, and to support colleagues and clients who are going through it – so please give it a read. And another freebie included with this issue is the 2024 NHBF calendar.

Finally, if you have time between clients, we’d be so grateful if you could complete our reader survey at bit.ly/salonfocus-readershipsurvey-2023. Your opinions and ideas will help us to make your magazine even better.

NHBF PRESIDENT AMANDA LODGE-STEWART

The 15 things you need to know this issue...

NHBF COMMENT

NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert says: ‘This data is invaluable in supporting the organisation’s lobbying of government on behalf of its Members, backing up the arguments as much as demonstrating the sector’s value and impact to the economy.

‘This is by no means a comprehensive survey – it’s a starting point.’

NHBF REPORT GIVES FIRST INSIGHT INTO ETHNIC MIX OF SECTOR

The hair and beauty sector has experienced growth in locations with a larger proportion of Black, Black British, Caribbean or African communities, but its overall market share across Great Britain has declined, according to research from the NHBF.

Analysis of the trends within the hair and beauty industry by ethnicity across the UK – the first report of its kind to be undertaken in the industry – revealed these key findings:

1 Growth trends: Although the sector has experienced growth in locations with a larger proportion of Black, Black British, Caribbean or African communities, its overall market share across Great Britain has declined slightly over the past five years.

2 Asian ethnic group: Hair and beauty locations in Asian or Asian British postcode sectors have seen growth over the past five years, but their overall market share has reduced during the same period.

3 All ethnic groups have experienced a slowdown in growth in 2022,

as market saturation and increased competition for local spending have become more prominent factors.

4 Regional variations: Black, Black British, Caribbean and African locations in the East Midlands have been the most resilient since the pandemic, while nine in 10 of the fastest declining postcodes for these locations are in Greater London.

5 Survival rates: Hair and beauty salons in white ethnic areas have shown a higher probability of surviving past their third anniversary, while Black, Black British, Caribbean and African outlets face lower survival rates, emphasising the need for targeted support for these small businesses.

The NHBF partnered with the Local Data Company to conduct the in-depth analysis of the sector’s ethnic make-up. From this, a detailed picture emerged, showing the correlation between the density of independent hairdressers and the volume of ethnic group communities. Access the report at: nhbf.co.uk/ethnicity-report

2 NEWS IN NUMBERS

LOOSE THREADS

ANNIVERSARY

Aromatherapy and skincare brand Eve Taylor London is celebrating 60 years since it was founded by beauty legend Eve Taylor OBE.

MISINFORMATION AND CONFUSION

A report by skincare brand Simple has revealed that 80% of people polled – especially women – feel the skincare industry is ‘rife with misinformation’. The findings also revealed:

FUNDRAISING ON THE FAIRWAY

The second Hair and Beauty Charity Golf Day raised more than £6000 to help fellow industry colleagues who have fallen on hard times. A total of 13 teams took part. Hair and Beauty Charity manager Natalie Booker said the charity has seen a 180% increase in calls for help in the last year.

The new Meta app Threads was downloaded 30 million times in 16 hours when it first launched in the US and UK in July. Described as a text-based conversation app similar to X (formerly Twitter), it aims to be the platform where ‘communities come together to discuss everything from the topics you care about today to what’ll be trending tomorrow’. £££

9% feel overwhelmed by the skincare industry

84% with sensitive skin reported feeling confused by skincare

62% want to see more straightforward claims

30% expressed a preference for a straightforward, easy-to-follow skincare routine with minimal steps

Retinol was the most confusing and searched-for skincare ingredient, with 29,000 monthly searches, according to a study. Google searches of 25 different ingredients were analysed based on the number of searches that asked what the specific ingredient does.

The top three most searched-for ingredients were:

RETINOL 29,000

NIACINAMIDE 17,000

HYALURONIC ACID 16,000

MEN’S WELLBEING

Since 2019 there has been a 346% INCREASE

in male spa bookings, according to digital spa experience and booking agency Spabreaks.com. The company has also seen its audience increase to 40% male custom in 2023, compared to 25% in 2018-19, highlighting how men across the UK are turning to spas to support both their physical and mental wellbeing.

MENOPAUSE MATTERS

Enclosed with this issue of salonfocus is Menopause Support’s new information booklet Understanding Menopause

A free mental health training programme ‘by hair pros for hair pros’ is on offer by L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. The Head Up initiative aims to train 20,000 hair pros by the end of the year, and 100,000 by 2025

The Black British Business Awards 2023 has named Gail Waterman as an ‘Entrepreneur’ finalist in recognition of her work in the hairdressing and beauty sector.

The ‘YOU’ campaign by Trevor Sorbie is urging more salons to switch to a singular pricing system. The brand has been offering nongendered pricing as standard across all its salons since July.

Created to support women to better understand and navigate menopause, the guidance has been reviewed by expert clinicians and is a comprehensive introduction to the process. It also includes a symptom checker to help women recognise the number of potential symptoms.

Diane Danzebrink, founder of Menopause Support, is determined that every woman should have the right information before menopause comes along. She says: ‘I am delighted to be collaborating with the NHBF and to introduce our booklet to Members. Hair and beauty professionals can play an essential role in conversations with their clients and colleagues by helping to normalise the menopause conversation and by signposting to information and resources.

‘Women experiencing perimenopause and menopause

should not have to suffer in silence. I urge women across the UK to read the guidance and seek support if it is affecting their quality of life.’

Diane’s own experience of menopause drove her to create Menopause Support and the national #MakeMenopauseMatter campaign. To find out more, go to menopausesupport.co.uk

To order free salon copies of Understanding Menopause, email hello@menopausesupport.co.uk with the number of booklets you’d like and your postal address. A digital version of the booklet, which can be added to your website, is also available under ‘Free Resources’ on the Menopause Support website.

WHAT’S

HOT,

WHAT’S NOT 4

While we think ketchup is used best on a portion of chips, TikTok’s latest viral (but not new) hair hack encourages users to apply the condiment to discoloured hair that has turned green from chlorine. We suggest leaving it to the pros to sort out!

Drinking more than one sugary drink a day (including fruit juices and artificial sweeteners) could increase the chances of male pattern hair loss by 42%

The Texture Gap report 2023 highlights how clients and consumers with type 4 textured hair are being ‘forgotten’ and ‘left behind’. See page 47 for more on this report.

YOU ASKED, THEY ANSWERED

Who owns the client data when a chair renter’s contract comes to an end?

Tina BeaumontGoddard, NHBF director of membership, says: As the chair renter is running their own independent business, best practice is for the chair renter to hold and maintain the data of their own clients. Simply put, the chair renter and salon owner should each retain and manage their own client records, so it will be clear from the outset of the relationship who ‘owns’ the client data. Determining the ownership of client data from the start will help to prevent disagreements if the contract is terminated and will also help to determine that the chair renter is self-employed and not an employee of the salon. It’s important that both the salon owner and chair renter understand the arrangement and the impact this may have on their individual business and their respective clients – this includes client records and data.

Keeping records and sharing

While it’s not uncommon for salon owners to allow the chair renter to keep client records on the salon IT system for ease and convenience, this is not necessarily best practice.

● If client data is being shared it is recommended that this is kept to an absolute minimum.

● Both parties should ensure that their respective privacy notices are updated.

● Ensure all clients are aware that their data is being shared with another party and how their data is being used.

More information on data sharing can be found on the Information Commissioner’s Office (ICO) SME web hub: bit.ly/ICO-resources

GDPR

Both the salon owner and chair renter would separately need to comply with the UK GDPR and Data Protection Act 2018. Individuals and organisations that process personal data may need to pay a data protection fee to the ICO. You can carry out a self-assessment to see if you need to register on the ICO website: bit.ly/ICO-data-self-assessment

Seek advice

If you are a salon owner and are considering changing your existing business model to chair renting, it is recommended that you take expert legal advice, as the ownership of the client data becomes more complicated. Go to nhbf.co.uk/legal for more advice on how to stay legal and safe.

For more on chair renting, read the NHBF blog, ‘Going self-employed? Find out if chair, space or room renting is for you’ at nhbf.co.uk/self-employed

Have your say!

The salonfocus readership survey is your chance to tell us what you think about your membership magazine, and to help shape the content you read and learn from.

What do you really think of your membership magazine salonfocus?

Love it but wish there were certain topics covered more often, or perhaps in a different way? Are there areas not being covered that you would like to read? What articles do you find most interesting? And is there anything you would change?

We want to ensure that salonfocus continually provides you with informative, engaging and entertaining content that helps you to do your job better. In other words,we want to ensure that you get the most out of your membership magazine.

Your feedback is hugely valuable, and the readership survey is an opportunity for you to tell us what you think, and to help shape this award-winning industry publication.

As an added bonus and thanks, you could be in with the chance of winning one of two £75 John Lewis gift cards

JESS MAYNARD

Nail technician and salon owner Jess came sixth in the NHBF’s Top 100 Influencers Index 2022.

WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR CAREER PATH SO FAR?

I trained as a beauty therapist at college when I was 16. I then worked in a couple of salons before helping my mum to open her own beauty salon in our village. I had always planned to eventually work in my own space, so last year my husband converted our garage into a salon space. Now I get to work from my own home salon, which is amazing – I absolutely love working from home and being my own boss.

DO YOU SEE YOURSELF AS AN INFLUENCER?

I was very honoured and happy to come sixth in the NHBF’s Top 100, but I never set out to become an influencer – it just sort of happened. But if I can help other nail techs with their journey then that’s amazing. I always try to answer all the questions I get from other nail techs to help them.

WHO INFLUENCES YOU?

I’m inspired by and love following other nail technicians such as Harriet Westmoreland (@harrietwestmoreland) on socials [Harriet came eighth in the 2022 Index, and third in 2021 ]. I also love inspiring home accounts.

WHOSE NAILS WOULD YOU LOVE TO PAINT?

Stacey Solomon.

WHAT’S THE BEST BIT ABOUT YOUR JOB?

Chatting to all my clients, who are like my friends.

ALL ABOUT JESS

Age: 26

Based: Camberley, Surrey Specialises: Clean, classic, short manicures

Brand ambassador for: The GelBottle Inc

WHAT’S THE MOST CHALLENGING?

I would say feeling pressured to post amazing photos and reels on social media.

HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH PRESSURE?

I try not to put too much pressure on myself – I post something every other day and I post a set of nails I’ve done that week. A couple of years back I would question why a post didn’t get many likes or views. I now know that doesn’t mean anything, so I don’t really look. I just post what I love!

THE TOP 100 INDEX FOR 2023 IS SET TO BE ANNOUNCED THE WEEK COMMENCING 13 NOVEMBER DON’T MISS IT!

WHAT’S KEY TO YOUR SUCCESS?

I’m always learning and improving. And I have policies with my clients, so my business is protected from no-shows or late cancellations.

WHAT PLANS DO YOU HAVE FOR THE FUTURE?

One day I would love to become an accredited trainer and run my own courses.

STATS

NHBF rating: 6/100

IG: @jessmaynard_nails

Followers: 144k

Top post likes: 123.4k

THE TOP 100 2023

Who has made the cut?

Call to unite for skills progress

One year on from publishing the landmark report Careers at the cutting edge: tackling the skills shortage in the hair and beauty sector, the NHBF is pleased to announce that progress has been made. However, the NHBF is calling on the hair, beauty and barbering industries to further unite to continue with the positive developments.

Read more at nhbf.co.uk/cutting-edge

CONSULTATION LAUNCHED

Now in its third successful year, the NHBF’s Top 100 Hair and Beauty

Influencers Index for 2023 will take place at St John’s Hyde Park, London on Sunday 19 November.

Once again, throughout the week leading up to the evening, the NHBF will count down the whole Index, from 100 to 20.

The event celebrates the individuals who are helping shape the industry for the better through their influence on social media. And this year, for the first time, only Instagram, TikTok and YouTube are the platforms that have been measured.

for further details and don’t forget to share the hashtags #NHBFTop100influencers and #Hairandbeautytop100 with any related posts.

For more information, go to nhbf.co.uk/top-100-influencers

The Department for Health and Social Care has launched its first ever consultation on nonsurgical cosmetic procedures. Individuals and businesses are invited to share their views on how to make these procedures safer for consumers.

The results of the consultation, which closes on 28 October 2023, will be used to shape a new licensing scheme in England.

Read more at bit.ly/non-surgical-consultation

POSITIVE SIGNS, SAYS SURVEY

The latest State of the Industry survey from the NHBF shows that while there is an overall feeling of positivity in the industry, there are still several factors having a negative and damaging impact for many businesses.

The improvement seen in April 2023 has persisted, with 43% of businesses making a small or good profit, 42% breaking even and fewer making a small or substantial loss.

Read more at nhbf.co.uk/energy-cost

Above: NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert with some of the Top 100 winners of 2021. Right: Winners from 2022

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"Jenstengoaboveandbeyondtoensuremysalonissufficientlyprotected.Ihavebeen asatisfiedcustomerfor11yearsIwilltrusttheteamtohandlemyinsuranceneedsfor manyyearsahead!”

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OUT AND ABOUT WITH THE NHBF

Take a look at what members of the NHBF team have been up to since the last issue.

Report launch

The NHBF’s director of policy and public affairs Rosina Robson (right) was honoured to join the IfATE and MP Robert Halfon for the launch of their A Simpler Skills System report at the House of Lords. Rosina said Robert’s passion for apprenticeships was inspiring as he revealed the government’s £500m investment in skills until 2025, and how the report will ensure apprenticeship qualifications meet the needs of employers.

Creating content

Connecting with Members and diving into their stories is always a highlight! We had a blast capturing some special moments with two amazing salon owners from @chopandchange4 and @nude.hbs and their inspiring teams and apprentices in Surrey in August. We were also joined by the fantastic @capitalcontent.co team. Watch out – video coming soon!

Barbiecore

NHBF director of quality and standards Caroline Larissey appeared on BBC radio in August giving advice and tips on salon clients who want to take on the Barbie trend.

Her main points:

Advisory board

At the City & Guilds advisory board meeting, members, including the NHBF’s Caroline Larissey, discussed employer partnerships in the industry, apprenticeships, licence to practise, and the crucial connection between education and employment. They also delved into the significance of diversity, equality, and inclusion within the beauty sector. More updates to come on shaping a vibrant and inclusive future for our industry.

DIARY DATES

Chair of the Hair Professional (Trailblazer) Steering Group Wendy Cummins (left) with Rosina

SALON SPONSORS PODCAST LAUNCH

Ali McRitchie, NHBF Member and

director of The Head Gardener in Inverness, has teamed up with Adventurous Audio to help launch a compelling new podcast of one woman’s breast cancer journey.

Inverness-based broadcaster and producer Pennie Latin-Stuart was diagnosed with breast cancer in 2020. Nothing could have prepared her for the emotional and physical rollercoaster that was to ensue. Pennie turned to writing a private blog to cope with her feelings, and she found herself continuing to journal long past her treatment and recovery.

Now Pennie’s extraordinary story has been turned into the podcast LUMP, which has been described as ‘brutal, sweary [and] often laugh-outloud funny, but ultimately inspiring and uplifting’. It is hoped that anyone who has ever been touched by cancer will find something to take away from this captivating account, both written and read by Pennie.

Honesty

Ali, who has been battling breast cancer herself, said: ‘The more we can share our experiences in an open and honest way, the more we can all feel supported through this terrible disease.

‘Pennie’s writing and broadcasting go straight to the heart of the issue and never pulls a punch – the podcast will have you laughing, crying and, most importantly, talking about your own experiences.’

Ali adds that, as a hairdresser, she’s keenly aware of the devastating impact cancer can have on how women perceive their bodies and their beauty, and just how much that can undermine their self-confidence.

‘We have clients from right across the Highlands, and it can be hugely isolating to experience cancer when you’re a long way from support services. By sponsoring this important and impactful podcast, we want to reach out to support all our clients, families and friends so everyone realises they’re not alone in their struggles to come to terms with a diagnosis,’ she says.

Charity

Ali and her salon team have spent the last decade actively supporting Highland Hospice by fundraising and volunteering to cut patients’ hair, both in day therapy and the inpatient unit. Their annual charity event has raised hundreds of thousands of pounds to date, and they are now incredibly proud to be sponsoring something very different with LUMP Access the LUMP podcast episodes at lump.captivate.fm

Ali and Pennie at the launch of the podcast

ROYAL RECOGNITION

Palace outing for Leeds hairdresser.

Jeremy Faber, salon owner and NHBF Member of 35 years, was invited to Buckingham Palace in May by HRH King Charles III in recognition of his extensive fundraising efforts over the last decade.

As the founder and owner of hair salon Headfirst in Alwoodley, Leeds, Jeremy has raised more than £30,000 for numerous charities through sponsored waxing, family fun days and even transforming his salon into a crêperie. His latest event was an open-water swim in Loch Tay, Scotland, to raise money for a children’s diabetes charity.

Jeremy says: ‘I’m really passionate about fundraising because, although our industry is active in raising awareness for good causes, I think there is massive potential for salons to tap into their communities and do amazing things. There are such good benefits.’

Access all areas

How one salon in Cardiff is tackling inclusivity.

WHO? Stephen Reynolds is a barber and HR and safety manager at Lazarou Hair Salon (an NHBF Member) on Duke Street, Cardiff

WHAT? The salon recently remodelled part of its ground floor to accommodate backwashes, which previously had to be done upstairs, and to make sure the basins were also wheelchair accessible.

HOW? ‘We liaised with and consulted various groups and individuals to greater understand how we can better serve clients who have mobility challenges – either in or out of a wheelchair,’ explains Stephen.

WHY? ‘We believe we are unique within the city centre of Cardiff in offering this, which is both arguably a good thing and conversely not so when reflecting on inclusivity.’

TOP TIPS

When considering updating your premises to make it more inclusive, Stephen suggests:

1. Looking at the space carefully – don’t try and force things that don’t fit because you can’t be all things to everybody. Don’t compromise on safety.

2. Talking to your clients – even if they don’t have mobility or access issues themselves, they may have friends who do and have had experiences.

3. Thinking creatively – be flexible with design and ask how you can alter traditional concepts to accommodate more people.

Both the Prince and Princess of Wales were in attendance at the event, along with King Charles

Jeremy and his wife, Jude, outside the palace gates

Above: Stephen at the accessible basin with a client who uses a wheelchair Above right: The new accessible and inclusive backwash area

ART OF THE BARBERSHOP

As his Salon Paintings exhibition continues, artist Hurvin Anderson describes why the barbershop has been a significant inspiration.

‘ The barbershop is a subject that I have returned to throughout my career, as a site that was a point of connection to Caribbean culture’

ABOUT THE ARTIST

Born in 1965 in Birmingham to Jamaican parents, Hurvin studied painting at Wimbledon School of Art (1991-94), then at the Royal College of Art. In 2002, he attended the Caribbean Contemporary Arts residency in Port of Spain, Trinidad. That residency had a significant impact on his work exploring Caribbean postcolonial life.

The Hurvin Anderson: Salon Paintings exhibition is at the Hepworth Gallery in Wakefield until 5 November.

‘ The barbershops are part of a continuation of what I call the social space. Places where people meet and gather, even though there’s no one there in the paintings. You’re getting a little bit of an insight into these spaces that people normally see from the outside, look at them and walk by. It felt like a still life in parts, and also equally it was almost like one space.’

Get involved!

salonfocus needs YOU...

The first meeting is set to take place on 19 October 2023 and will provide an opportunity for you to share your insight into the industry, or talk about the issues you have faced in running your business.

EAB volunteers will play a vital role, helping to reflect the views of the NHBF membership, providing expert advice and insight into

the subjects that matter, and supplying industry contacts to the salonfocus editorial team.

EAB membership is open to all NHBF Members and will last for a minimum of three years.

The EAB needs to reflect the cultural diversity of Members across all three industries in the UK – hair, beauty and barbering If you have something to share, we’d love you to get in touch.

WHAT WOULD YOU NEED TO DO?

1. Assist in the general planning of future issues by:

● Attending two meetings each year (virtually).

● Bringing fresh content ideas to each meeting.

● Discussing the latest developments and how these could be reflected.

● Providing your expertise.

2. Ask everyone you know to share their stories and experiences with the team to feature in the magazine.

3. Ensure key NHBF messages are shared, and the magazine is promoted to colleagues and fellow Members.

Interested?

To apply, send your CV and a brief cover letter or video (no more than three minutes) outlining why you would like to join and what you feel you can bring to the board by 13 October 2023. Applications and short videos should be sent to Hollie Ewers at hollie@salonfocusmagazine.co.uk

Packed with news and views, hot topics and top tips, it provides all the insight and resources you need to run a profitable business.

Now, for the first time, we’re launching an editorial advisory board (EAB) so you can help shape future content and be a part of our award-winning magazine.

Skincare expert Caroline Hirons was recently diagnosed with attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD), while celebrity hairstylist Vernon François has known about his dyslexia since childhood. Is neurodivergence prevalent in the hair and beauty industry?

‘What we know from informal research I put out is that upward of 50% of people had either been diagnosed or were in the process of being diagnosed or identified with a number of key elements linked to various conditions,’ says

Conor James Doyle, an educator in the sector, who himself has been diagnosed with ADHD.

Neurodevelopmental conditions can go undiagnosed for a long time, especially in women (who comprise 87% of the industry). ‘Often other variables or factors can prevent diagnosis and intervention, such as financial obstacles,’ Conor adds.

Definitions

There is great variation in how our brains are wired. Neurodiversity is as natural and normal as biodiversity in nature.

‘Neurodiversity may be seen as a political term encouraging the view that those with neurodevelopmental

conditions such as autism have natural and valuable variations,’ says chartered psychologist Louise Hilliar.

‘It also encourages the idea that we all have strengths and weaknesses and that neurodivergent people often only experience difficulties as they are operating in a society that is set up for neurotypical people – that is, those with the most common ways of thinking, processing information and behaving.’

Creativity

Sophia Hilton, owner of Not Another Salon and Not Another Academy, was diagnosed with ADHD aged 35 and dyslexia aged

October marks ADHD Awareness Month – as neurodivergence is common in the sector, how can we ensure everyone is happy and thriving at work?

WORDS ANNA SCOTT

45%

of neurodivergent people have lost or left their job because of challenges due to being misunderstood

Around

8%

of people in the UK are thought to have ADHD

Around

10%

of people in the UK are thought to have dyslexia

ly we have l in

our industry than others. That is because many people came to our industry because they didn’t fit the school system, often because they were neurodivergent,’ she says.

NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert says a lot of people go into the profession because they are creative and looking for an outlet. ‘They find something that they feel drawn towards,’ he says. ‘[Hair and beauty] is a way of expressing themselves and their creativity.’

Emotional intelligence also plays a role. ‘The relationships between a stylist and their client can be incredibly important for both parties,’ he adds. ‘And one of the things we’ve seen over recent years is how much people value that relationship.’

Communication

When stylists begin owning businesses – and their roles change – they might find themselves facing issues. ‘How do they find ways to manage that?’ Richard asks. ‘For example, if someone has dyslexia, they could build in time to process things or they might communicate in visual ways.’

‘Clarity of communication is really important, such as direct questions in interviews,’ he adds. ‘I think a lot of salon owners adapt when they are managing people because they are often neurodivergent themselves.’

Sophia’s ADHD was present in her younger years, before diagnosis, and her parents helped her come up with creative ways to work with her brain. ‘I’ve always used colour charts, different pens and images

y l e

P fe,’ e come

to plan out my life,’ she says. ‘My neurodivergence made me come up against a lot of challenges in my learning, but interestingly ADHD gives me an obsessive determination to get through it, so it evens out.’

Research

Salon owners have a legal duty to make adjustments for neurodivergent interviewees and employees. Conor suggests listening to neurodivergent employees’ needs and approaching each case with a solutions-

Around 1 IN 7 people (more than 15%) in the UK are neurodivergent

There are at least

700,000

autistic adults in the UK of which only 15%

UK o are in employment

PEOPLE

A

PEOPLE WITH ADHD MAY:

Struggle with org – for example, becoming confused about dat

●

Louise ‘Provide reminders, establish aroutineandbepatientwhenerrorsare

Louise says: ‘Provide reminders, establish a routine and be patient when errors are made. Coach and offer kind feedback on conversational style, provide brief instructions and give information in a written format.’

PEOPLE ON THE AUTISM SPECTRUM MAY:

● Struggle with changes to routine – for example, changes to rooms when training, irregular work patterns or being asked to work in different locations

● Struggle with small talk with clients and getting to know colleagues

● Find it hard to read between the lines

● Need time away from people during breaks and lunchtimes.

Louise says: ‘Avoid changes to routine where possible, negotiate change and provide plenty of notice. Provide coaching opportunities, and match employees with clients who prefer quiet. Be direct, encourage requests for clarification and demonstrate understanding.’

PEOPLE WITH DYSLEXIA MAY:

ganisation riving late, ed about dates pment to lif urodivergen ainst THE BUSINESS NEURODIVERSITY 22 SALONFOCUS | AUTUMN 2023

● Struggle with aspects of training and exams involving reading and written work

● Struggle to remember verbal instructions due to a weakness in working memory

● Take time to read instructions on products and to record appointment details.

Louise says: ‘Be patient and avoid rushing them. Could they study with a buddy? Provide information and notes in writing, and provide extra time for exams.’

PEOPLE WITH DYSPRAXIA MAY:

● Struggle with handwriting during training and on the job

● Take longer to learn motor-skilled tasks. Louise says: ‘Avoid commenting on handwriting, provide extra training, consider alternative equipment and adapt their job role if they're struggling to learn processes.’

focused mindset. ‘Every employer has an obligation to ensure their employees are in an environment they feel comfortable and safe, and have the opportunity to grow and thrive in whatever ways work for them,’ he adds. Most adjustments or needs are easy enough to work around, Sophia says. ‘It’s important to talk to your members of staff about what allowances you can make, and what would be nonnegotiable for the job in order to make sure people are safe and the services you promise to provide for your customers are delivered.’

neuodivergence and making work a positive experience for everyone. One of the most important things to remember, Sophia says, is that we ‘can’t generalise neurodivergence – it’s incredibly vast’.

HIRING AND MANAGING NEURODIVERGENT COLLEAGUES

DO

✓ Ask to see the employee’s diagnostic report (or sections of it) if they are willing to share – it may provide useful information about their characteristics and potential forms of support.

✓ Be creative and flexible, and explore support through Access to Work (see Resources).

✓ Consider funding a diagnostic assessment and/or workplace assessment for the employee.

✓ Encourage a culture of openness, trust, respect and acceptance, and respect confidentiality.

DON’T

Make assumptions about an employee’s strengths and weaknesses (labels are a useful shorthand but there is considerable individual variation). Forget that you must adhere to the law. Under the Equality Act 2010, neurodivergence comes under the protected characteristic of disability. Even though many neurodivergent people don’t believe themselves to have a disability, employers must have reasonable adjustments in place for interviews and work.

CASE STUDY CONOR JAMES DOYLE

‘Speaking from my own experience, large obstacles can be communicating and identifying needs that are different from those for a neurotypical person,’ Conor says.

‘If I was asked to plan things or if I was in a time-sensitive situation in a stressful environment, I would find that quite overwhelming.’

Following his diagnosis, Conor spent time working to identify his needs, communicate them and address them accordingly. ‘It took a long time – it’s about breaking down your old habits and replacing them with ones that are built for you.’

He has found that in creative spaces he can come up with ideas very rapidly. ‘This is a common trait with neurodivergence – living or experiencing thoughts outside of linear,’ he adds. ‘Thoughts can be quite scattered or random, but often can lead to some real creativity.’

Everyone’s experiences are unique, so it’s crucial to listen to the needs and concerns of employees. ‘Focus on identifying, harnessing and developing their skills to fit into your business, and acknowledge where – just like everybody else – their strengths and weaknesses lie,’ Conor concludes.

RESOURCES

● Access to Work: get support if you have a disability or health condition: gov.uk/access-to-work

● What is neurodiversity? See information via charity websites including bit.ly/Braincharity-neurodiversity and bit.ly/adhdaware-neurodiversity

● NHBF blog: Embracing neurodiversity in the workplace: dos and don’ts for employers: nhbf.co.uk/neurodiversity

DETOX YOUR WORKPLACE

If your salon was showing signs of a toxic work culture, would you know what to do about it?

WORDS EMMA BENNETT

40%OFUKWORKERSHAVEEXPERIENCEDTOXICBEHAVIOURATWORK

ollowing a raft of high-profi accusations and revelations of aggressive and inappropriate behaviour at work, toxic workplace cultures are in the spotlight. ITV’s Phillip Schofield said his career was over after his ‘unwise relationship’ with a young colleague was made public, while more than 100 UK staff at fast-food chain McDonald’s have alleged a toxic culture of sexual assault, harassment, racism and bullying at its branches. Research shows these damaging workplace cultures are widespread. Business software company Capterra UK found 40% of UK workers had experienced toxic behaviour at work. The hair and beauty industry is no exception, with competition between stylists known to fuel bad feelings among colleagues. But how can a bit of healthy competition turn sour?

Passive-aggressive resistors

Chartered business psychologist Beverley Stone, who works with big organisations to change their culture, says things get nasty when people don’t know how to manage confl the workplace.

Stone, who works with organisations to culture, get nasty when don’t know to manage conflict in the workplace

only power they feel they have.’

‘Instead of being open, honest and

honest and collaborative, a lot of people say yes when they’re asked to do something when they actually mean no,’ says Beverley. ‘Then they either do it badly, slowly or not at all because they resent how they have been spoken to or what’s been asked of them. They passive-aggressively resist because that’s the

Knowledge gap is inability to manage conflict is often prevalent among managers themselves, who haven’t learned how to

among managers themselves, give constructive feedback or handle interpersonal issues sensitively. Speaking on a Sky News podcast about toxic workplace cultures, Harvard professor Frances Frei – who is credited with turning around problems at Uber – said about managers at the taxi firm: ‘They thought their job was to keep giving Beverley Stone:

HOW TO DESTROY A TOXIC WORKPLACE CULTURE?

‘Values lived, not laminated’ ‘Have a defined set of values – such as being supportive, showing respect and doing things with a sense of urgency. Embed them in your appraisal system so people are measured not only on whether they are doing their job, but also how they do it, their attitudes and behaviours.’

Amanda Lodge-Stewart:

‘Prevention is better than cure’

‘On-board new staff members properly with a thorough induction so they know exactly what’s expected of them, and who they’re responsible for and accountable to. If people are renting chairs, have a code of conduct that you expect them to abide by.’

piercing constructive advice and that was making people’s satisfaction go down. It turned out they weren’t bad people, they just had never been taught.’

This lack of manager training is also an issue in the hair and beauty industry, with many professionals taking the leap from the chair to running their own salon without any business qualifications.

t was n e, so an y, with rom dent demy, floor ittle ow lon

Amanda Lodge-Stewart, NHBF president and owner of The Link Training Academy, says: ‘When a hairdresser on a shop fl opens a salon, they often have very little or no experience or knowledge of how to manage people. I encourage all salon owners and managers to have some training or support to learn how to manage a team.’

CASE STUDY THE SALON OWNER’S VIEW

SIGNS OF A TOXIC WORKPLACE

High staff sickness and turnover

Low morale and motivation

Presenteeism

Poor communication Competition valued over collaboration

Colleagues are isolated

Rigid top-down hierarchy

Lack of professional training and support

Unrealistic expectations

A culture of mediocrity

A culture

As well as m aff a toxic work

Data D charity Mind the bare min between £26

Salon owner Whit Kilpatrick was just 17 when she started working at her first salon. A few years in she noticed older colleagues treating her diff

N ER’ S VIE W when she w in she differently.

As well as making people unhappy and negatively affecting their mental health, a toxic workplace is bad for business. Data from Deloitte and mental health charity Mind said presenteeism (staff doing the bare minimum) costs UK employers between £26bn and £29bn annually through lost productivity.

er women didn’t nk, went into a room, er know how to leave, I wanted about five of us

‘I was earning good money and the other women didn’t like it. If there were dirty dishes in the sink, they would put them at my station to clean. When I went into a room, they would stop talking. The salon owner was really timid and passive-aggressive, and she didn’t know how to nip it in the bud. So a group of us called a meeting where we begged her to fix it. I didn’t want to leave, I just wanted the environment to change. In the end, about five of us walked out.’

Hair, where she’s eated. ‘We don’t es, they’re our e use, we have created ing women and

Whit now runs her own salon, Maven Hair, where she’s proud of the supportive culture she’s created. ‘We don’t call trainees our assistants or apprentices, they’re our “residents”. By shifting the language we use, we have created this amazing culture of women supporting women and stylists supporting stylists.

‘If they are giving you a commission split there needs to be a fair trade. I give all my stylists one-on-one coaching every month to help with their personal and professional goals, and offer a ton of educational opportunities. I want to inspire my team to make a difference in the industry.

-one coaching ever y goals, and . I want to r y.

‘If I hadn’t got out of that first job when I did, I don’t know if I would still be doing hair. If you think you have a toxic workplace, you must admit there’s a problem and work with your team to fix it. Be vulnerable and open to changing how you do things and the bad apples will weed themselves out.’

en I did, I don’t know have a toxic oblem and work with pen weed themselves out .’

‘Excellent people are dragged down to the lowest common denominator, creating a culture of mediocrity that’s not good for customers, staff or business,’ says Beverley.

‘And if the hairdresser supplier chain isn’t positively collaborative, customers won’t

‘Excellent the lowest co a culture of m customers, s ‘And if the h co go back ’ Amanda a to have an op leaders and m

to avoid work communicat clients will n

Amanda agrees, adding: ‘It’s important to have an open and honest culture where leaders and managers are approachable, otherwise it will fester – staff will ring in sick to avoid work, they won’t mix with others or communicate with the rest of the team and clients will notice there’s an atmosphere.’

RESOURCES

NHBF blog – Creating a good workplace culture: nhbf.co.uk/workplace-culture

NHBF business coaching: nhbf.co.uk/business-coaching

THROUGH LOST PRODUCTIVITY

Teeth whitening is big business. But should you – and can you – sell teeth-whitening products in your salon or barbershop?

iten usi you ca hitening ba TEETH WHITENING THE BUSINESS

GETTING IT I

n our celebrity-obsessed world, the Hollywood smile has never been more desirable. Everywhere we look, we are greeted with gleaming white grins – and clients want the same.

Teeth whitening used to be something only available through top private dentists. But these days, customers can legally buy ‘self-service’ kits to use at home. Some salons do sell these at the till – however, it doesn’t come without a big risk.

The General Dental Council (GDC) receives hundreds of enquiries each year related to incidents involving illegal teeth whitening, and it remains a source of ongoing concern about safety.

Weighing it up

It is crucial to remember that only a qualified dentist, dental hygienist, dental therapist or clinical dental technician working to a dentist’s prescription can carry out any teethwhitening procedures. It is also against the law to offer clients advice on the procedure unless you are a registered dental professional.

A spokesman for the GDC explains: ‘The GDC is clear that beauty salon customers should not receive any treatment, advice or attendance by any individuals not registered with the GDC about the use of any teeth-whitening products. The unregistered practice of dentistry has many safety risks associated, including the risk of physical harm.

‘Registered dental professionals carrying out the practice of dentistry are suitably qualified and registered, and hold appropriate indemnity insurance. By receiving or providing

INSURANCE MATTERS

● Only those qualified in dentistry can get insurance to cover the administration of teeth-whitening treatments.

● Your standard salon public liability insurance will not cover teeth whitening either, so going down this avenue could end up being a very costly decision.

● Unlimited fines can be imposed by magistrates for carrying out illegal treatments, and you may also face hefty claims for compensation and court costs.

● Trading Standards can also act if you are selling illegal kits in the salon.

a tooth-whitening treatment while unregistered, you are placing customers at risk of harm.’

Risky business

Selling the wrong product in your salon could also land you in serious trouble. The Cosmetic Products (Safety) (Amendment) Regulations 2012 states that products containing or releasing less than 0.1% hydrogen peroxide can be legally sold in Europe and the UK. But anything between 0.1% and 6% of hydrogen peroxide should only be available through a registered dentist on prescription. Get it wrong and your client could end up with burned gums and damaged enamel, while you could face criminal prosecution. If the GDC does receive a report of a salon supplying or using a potentially illegal product, the business will be referred immediately to Trading Standards.

tandards.

A rare exception

While the rules surrounding teeth whitening may seem overwhelming, it is possible in rare cases to sell selfservice kits in a salon and stay above the law.

One company that knows the rules inside out is Naturawhite, which supplies cosmetic teeth-whitening packages to salons and self-employed beauty therapists. Over the past 20

years, owner Sean Anderson and his team have worked closely with their legal partners to ensure they are following UK and EU guidelines. Naturawhite supplies salon owners with a non-peroxide formula, a preparation scrub and gum shields to sell to customers for self-administration. They can then purchase the freestanding laser light needed for a whitening treatment to keep at their premises. But in order to keep within the law, it’s imperative that customers operate the light themselves, using a remote control, not the therapist. In a belt and braces approach, the company

SELLING THE WRONG PRODUCT IN YOUR SALON COULD ALSO LAND YOU IN SERIOUS TROUBLE

W A SER

also offers teeth-whitening training courses – with a heavy focus on the Dentists Act 1984.

Sean says: ‘Where we differ is that we have proved our system doesn’t breach the dentistry law. We’ve been in the courtroom and understand exactly what breaches the law and what doesn’t.

‘A lot of companies think you can just use non-peroxide gel and you’re fine. But there’s so much more to it and there are a lot of ways someone can be prosecuted.

‘If a client asks you if they can smoke after a treatment or eat red meat and you answer, that would be deemed as dental advice and that would be committing an offence. It’s a fine line – but if you’re trained correctly, you understand what you can and can’t do.’

He adds: ‘It is imperative business owners do their research if they want to purchase a teeth-whitening system to sell to clients. If they buy an illegal one, they will be the person receiving the prosecution, while the distributor simply turns its back and walks away.’

NHBF COMMENT

As Naturawhite has proved, it is possible to sell a legal teeth-whitening kit within the salon. However, NHBF director of quality and standards

Caroline Larissey says: ‘If you off teeth whitening as a service, you are breaking the law and your insurance will not cover you if things go wrong. As well as a potentially huge claim for

ntially for

to use them – and offering advice against the law unless you have dental qualifications.’

RESOURCES

● NHBF Teeth whitening factsheet: nhbf.co.uk/teeth-whitening

● NHBF blog – Teeth whitening: avoid a brush with the law: nhbf.co.uk/whitening

● GDC – FAQs on tooth whitening and illegal practice: bit.ly/GDC-tooth-whitening-faqs

RED

How does allergy alert testing protect both your clients and your business?

Ranging in severity from mild local irritation to lifethreatening anaphylaxis, reactions to hair and beauty treatments are a danger to both your client’s health and your business, bringing with them the potential for costly and reputation-damaging legal action (see What the lawsays).

In April, the Office for Product Safety and Standards confirmed it had launched an investigation into a worrying increase in methacrylate-containing gel polish reactions. This was fuelled by members of the public applying it at home themselves and, in some cases, the use of untrained technicians in salons. And, while many chemicals in hair dye can trigger an allergic reaction, the ingredient most frequently responsible is paraphenylenediamine (PPD). Crucially, people can become allergic to PPD at any time, even if they’ve experienced no problems with it previously.

Your first line of defence

Allergy alert testing (AAT) offers salon and barbershop owners and their clients the reassurance that a treatment or product should be safe for their use. The NHBF AAT industry protocols are a series of questions to help you judge when an allergy alert test is required.

CLAIRE MOULDS

As well as testing new clients and/or those using hair dye for the first time, salons are also required to test existing colour clients every six months. Tests should also be carried out if the product, brand or manufacturer has changed since the client last visited the salon.

AAT should only be used on clients aged 16 and over and must be carried out at least 48 hours prior to an appointment to give any reaction time to develop.

It’s vital that all staff members are aware of and understand the salon’s AAT procedure, especially if it diff from that at their previous salon.

WHAT THE LAW SAYS

‘AAT is a legal requirement under section 3 of the Health and Safety at Work Act,’ says Simon Wilkinson, principal health and safety consultant at WorkNest. ‘Failure to comply can lead to prosecution, a significant fine and a personal injury claim made against you by the client. Settlements for hair dye reactions, if patch testing was not carried out, can be considerable.’

If a client refuses AAT, you shouldn’t perform the service. While they may take their business elsewhere, a claim against you would be far more damaging.

‘Salons also need to be aware that, while selftesting off-site using a kit is not illegal, there are drawbacks to this,’ explains Simon. ‘Testing in a salon offers complete control of the process, ensuring it is accurately and safely completed by trained, competent staff and formally documented to prove due diligence. At home, a client may fail to follow the procedure correctly due to not understanding the instructions, possibly because of reading difficulties or a language barrier, or not following them correctly, perhaps because of distractions such as young children. This could result in a false negative, and they could go on to have a reaction when the treatment is carried out.’

Failing to follow the AAT procedures set out in your insurance policy can also invalidate your cover, leaving you to settle any claims from your own personal assets.

Your AAT questions answered

By NHBF director of quality and standards Caroline Larissey

How should AAT testing be carried out?

Follow the instructions cally provided by the manufacturer, as these can vary. NHBF Members who choose Jensten Insurance Brokers (previously Coversure Branches Limited) can use the NHBF AAT. If you use any other insurance provider, you must check with them that you’re covered when using the NHBF AAT protocols and toolkit.

In response to this industry variation, in April 2023 Cosmetics Europe (the European trade association for the cosmetics and personal care industry) published a new recommendation outlining a harmonised approach to AAT, where a small amount of colourant and developer are mixed, applied to the inner forearm and washed off after 45 minutes. If there is no reaction within 48 hours, the hair colourant can be applied.

Having a standardised approach to AAT – through voluntary harmonisation – should mean salons can conduct the test the same way for all brands, greatly simplifying the process and making it more effective.

If a client experiences a reaction, do not go ahead with the service. Advise them to seek medical advice from their GP, who may refer them for allergy testing, and report it to the manufacturer.

KEEP A WRITTEN RECORD OF EVERY TEST FOR AT LEAST SIX YEARS

Q: Are there any aspects of the AAT process where salons often don’t have robust enough systems in place?

A: In a busy salon, it’s easy to forget or overlook some of the steps. You also want your client to be happy, so sometimes it’s easier to say yes when we really should be saying no. For those salons that are struggling financially, turning down a client isn’t something that they can afford to do – but, equally, a potential legal case will be far costlier.

A robust consultation, which includes relevant industry tests, is the single most important service that we provide, and it’s essential that sufficient time is allowed to complete and record the outcome to ensure client satisfaction and safety.

Q: What resources does the NHBF provide to support AAT?

A: Our free Members’ hair and beauty toolkits contain all the information you need to guide you through the process, including our allergy alert questionnaire protocol, FAQs sheet, easy reference posters for your team to use when carrying out AAT, client information sheets emphasising the importance of the test, and consultation, allergy alert and industry tests record card to capture all the relevant information (see Resources).

Once you’ve completed the process outlined, you must record whether an AAT is needed, the date of the test and the result. Both you and the client should sign/initial the client record card, and you must keep a written record of every test for at least six years.

CASE STUDY AAT IN PRACTICE

NHBF Member Wendy Davis is director at The Oast Salon in Maidstone, and uses the Colourstart self-testing system.

‘We’d always used traditional patch testing, but it wasn’t a flawless process. Even with a clear system in place, sometimes the correct questions weren’t asked, the information wasn’t properly logged or a client simply wouldn’t turn up for their test and we’d have to reschedule, which meant a loss of income.

‘We moved to a self-testing system in 2020 as, in order to be able to colour hair on the first day salons reopened after lockdown, we needed to be able to patch test people beforehand.

‘Retaining a self-testing system afterwards was an easy decision as it makes the process less arduous for our clients, many of whom don’t live in the area or would have to take time out of their working day to come in. Initially, there was some pushback on the £15 charged for the kit, and we did lose a handful of clients, but most appreciate the time they’re saving.

‘It’s been great for business too. We can be creative on the spot now (previously we had to test the actual shade we were going to use in order to comply with the manufacturer’s instructions). We have more free time for bookings and can fill cancellation slots by upgrading to a colour, as we don’t have to book a prior consultation.

‘Manufacturers’ guidelines are changing all the time and all guidelines are different. This means it’s difficult keeping up with it all and ensuring you’re doing everything required of you by your insurance company. The Colourstart system has taken all that worry away from us and we can now just get on with what we love and do best.’

RESOURCES

w just get

● Access all of the NHBF resources mentioned via the NHBF blog – Set up a simple and effective allergy alert testing system with the NHBF: nhbf.co.uk/allergy-alert-system

● The NHBF AAT protocol, toolkits and FAQs are backed by Jensten Insurance Brokers, which offers Members 10% off their total premium: bit.ly/salon-insurance

Ahead of National Cyber Security Awareness Month in October, we look at the latest in cyber crime and how businesses can protect themselves.

WEB OF

WORDS HELEN BIRD

Small businesses are identifying cyber security breaches and attacks far less than before, government research published in April suggests. But it’s clear this type of crime remains a common threat: 38% of the UK’s small businesses suffered a cyber incident over a 12-month period, it found.

The drop in reporting among small businesses could reflect that cyber threats are seen as less of a priority in the current economic climate, the Department for Science, Innovation and Technology (DSIT) notes. But ‘no matter how small a business is, it’s at risk of cyber attack,’ says Roseanne [surname withheld] at the National Cyber Security Centre (NCSC).

Since the most common threats are relatively unsophisticated – and DSIT estimates that the most disruptive breach from the last 12 months cost each business an average of approximately £1100 – salons and barbershops need to remain vigilant.

W H AT T Y P E S O F C R I M E?

In a survey conducted by the NHBF in 2018, which found 56% of respondents had been victims of cyber fraud, credit card and phone scams were the most common – alongside phishing emails, ransomware attacks and viruses.

‘Salons and barbershops can be particularly vulnerable to data breaches, phishing attacks and public Wi-Fi hacking,’ says Badari Kalagi, senior security manager at Vagaro.

While large salons with 2000 to 3000 clients ‘can be a prime target for cyber criminals to steal data’ such as phone numbers, email addresses and credit card details, Badari says, smaller businesses that may not use business management software tend to use their personal email accounts to conduct business. ‘Your personal account getting compromised means your business is too.’

Hair and beauty businesses are also vulnerable to voice phishing, where scammers can impersonate clients over the phone to steal their information. For example, a person could call in saying they’re your client and that their spouse lost their credit card, and ask you to give them the card information over the phone.

WHY I S CY B E R

U R I T Y I M P O RTA N T?

O N A BUDGET?

Luke Inglis, owner of Luke Cutz barbershop in Romford, Essex, was targeted by cyber fraudsters. He explains: ‘They made a fake Instagram account and stole pictures – I lost nearly 1000 followers because it was so realistic. They were sending DMs and text messages with a link that took you through to put credit card details in – that’s when people realised it must be a scam. But [the hacker] followed so many of my followers and ended up getting nearly 2000 followers because people thought it was actually me and that my old account had been hacked.

was

H O W TO P R OT E CT YO

The NCSC recommends that businesses increase general levels of cyber resilience through these protective steps:

● Turn on two-step verification

● Create strong passwords using three random words

● Use a strong and separate password for your email

● Save passwords in your browser

Good cyber security doesn’t have to come with a hefty price tag. Roseanne advises: ‘Businesses of any size can get a free Cyber Action Plan from the NCSC website. This is an easyto-use tool providing tailored advice about your business’ cyber security based on a short questionnaire.’ See ncsc.gov.uk/ cyberaware/actionplan

‘I’m now Meta Verified, which protects your account from being hacked. I find it cringey – I’ve got a blue tick, and I’m really not like that – but it gives you added security on your accounts.

‘I’ve also had fake appointments booked in my diary. Once, we had a whole Saturday of fake appointments booked. It was after about the fifth no-show that we noticed something was going on. I’ve got a system that’s quite secure, but you can’t really go through one by one and check every single appointment is genuine – it’s unrealistic because we’re too busy.’

Roseanne says: ‘We know that cyber criminals increasingly view small organisations and sole traders as targets. And just one cyber attack can have devastating consequences.

‘The targeting of small businesses affects not just the business owners themselves, but also their customers and service users. Following a cyber attack, businesses may suffer loss of services, operating income and future income.’

● Update your devices and apps

● Regularly back up your data.

Sam Turner-Meyern, NHBF digital marketing director, says:

● Make sure your mobile devices are PIN- or password-protected and can be tracked or remotely wiped or locked if stolen – especially if they hold business records.

● Don’t assume that phone calls, texts, emails or invoices are genuine. Hackers are extremely convincing, so have a clear procedure for making payments and get team members to check before agreeing to give out or change payment details for anyone.

Badari says:

● If you provide free Wi-Fi for your clients, it should be a different network and connection than the one used to run your business. A simple way to do this is to have two routers and split the traffic: one for clients and one for your business. You should have a separate password for both networks.

● Train all employees in best cyber security practices, such as how to recognise phishing attempts and report suspicious links.

● Invest in an all-in-one software package that stores your data securely.

‘We’re also encouraging business owners and sole traders to use the NCSC’s new Check your Cyber Security service – a quick, free and easy tool to find cyber security vulnerabilities before they become targets, plus guidance on how to fix them.’ Go to basiccheck.service. ncsc.gov.uk

‘As we know, technology is always changing, and with change comes new threats. It’s vital to report any potential risk so authorities can stay with or ahead of the cyber threats,’ says Sam. ‘You can report fraud or cybercrime to Action Fraud any time of the day or night using the online reporting tool.’

Reporting online to Action Fraud is quick and easy at reporting.actionfraud.police. uk/login or calling 0300 123 2040.

In Scotland, the free Cyber and Fraud Centre Incident Response Helpline (0800 1670 623) is open to all Scottish businesses and organisations.

WHERE TO F I N D O U T M O R E?

● NHBF blog – Take steps to protect your salon or barbershop against cyber attacks: nhbf.co.uk/ cyber-threats

WORDS PETER CRUSH

GAIN

AND A

fter the commotion of the pandemic, the hair and beauty sector is slowly but surely getting back on its feet. The latest NHBF data shows more salons are eyeing growth than survival (41% want to expand their operations, up from 30% in 2022), while 21% predict they’ll ‘definitely’ or ‘likely’ take on new staff, despite rising operating costs.

But with the UK economy at record employment, and skilled staff easily able to move elsewhere [2015-20 saw a 54% increase in the number of hairdressing businesses], these growth intentions will be impossible without a strategy for retaining staff. The cards can often feel stacked against salon and barbershop owners. So what can be done to try and beat these odds?

Salon and barbershop staff have their pick of where to work, so what should owners be doing to keep their top talent?

RETENTION DOS ✓

✓ PAY STAFF PROPERLY

While research shows flexibility and other perks typically eclipse pay nowadays, proper pay is a hygiene factor that Dale Sampey, owner of Birmingham-based The Barber House, regards as essential. ‘We pay all staff a salary – which seems rare now. The industry appears to be moving more to a self-employment model, but you have to question who this benefits – it’s mostly owners avoiding certain employment costs. The trouble is that this doesn’t foster loyalty or a feeling of support.’

✓ PROVIDE FLEXIBILITY

Long hours can feel like part and parcel of working in the sector, but they needn’t be. Small changes can make a big difference. ‘Whereas we might have said a blanket no before, we’ve recently become more accommodating to staff who

NHBF COMMENT

NHBF Board member Carolyn Sweeney says:

When employees can so easily move to self-employment, making people feel appreciated is the key to retention. We give our staff flexible working, and allow for halfterm breaks when staff need to look after their kids.

Security is another issue. People need to feel they have a future, so investing in them through training is a must. Staff also want good leadership – for instance, goal setting. This costs nothing and

need time off or flexibility,’ says Caroline Mann, who runs three premises in Northamptonshire. ‘Since Covid-19, staff definitely value quality of life.’ Dale agrees: ‘One member of staff has recently become a dad, and he asked if he could reduce his hours from 44 to 40 a week, which we’ve been happy to do. We’d rather have fewer, happily given hours than lose this person.’

✓ CREATE

THE RIGHT CULTURE FIRST

‘We have 60 to 70 applicants per role, so attraction is not a problem for us,’ says Richard Marshall, founder and owner of Pall Mall Barbers. ‘We feel it’s because we put a lot of effort into explaining our culture. We feel the key to retention is finding the right people who will fit us in the first place.’ He adds: ‘We’re honest, and say that if you’re here for a quick buck, you’re not right for us. We promise development – not just training – but over time.’

makes a big difference. I’ve found rewards only really work when they offer something that is otherwise a pain point for people – for instance, health cover.

The best advice I can give is that if people do leave, run exit interviews. They’re hugely important and help uncover why things have broken down. As an industry, I don’t think we do enough of this.

RETENTION DON'TS

DON’T PROMISE THE EARTH

Some owners can be so keen to hire staff that they over-promise, leaving the reality a very different picture. ‘We’ve had staff leave because the grass looks greener, but they soon realise things weren’t as good as they thought,’ says Dale. ‘Being fair and setting expectations go a long way. Our manager was at school six years ago, but we took him on as an apprentice, and this is where he’s got to now. We didn’t say he’d be learning everything at once, rather little but often.’

DON’T UNDERESTIMATE COMMUNICATION

Adam Bryant, academy director at RUSH, has previously credited continuous communication as the factor that has seen its retention improve from 77% in March 2019 to 93% by 2022. Caroline agrees: ‘I do

lots of one-to-ones now, just asking people if they are okay, or whether there are any issues I can help resolve for them. We’re all different, and I think this goes a long way to showing that we care – and this is appreciated.’

DON’T ACT IMPULSIVELY IF BACKED INTO A CORNER

A study by the Work Institute found that 53% of managers have trouble identifying when staff are experiencing mental health issues or burnout. ‘The worst thing owners can do is agree to a pay rise just because someone threatens to leave without one,’ says Carolyn Sweeney, NHBF Board member and owner of Creations Hair Salon in Chichester. ‘It’s better to come at things by having individual conversations about what each member of staff wants and needs. That way you can prevent a flashpoint in the first place.’

BONUSES, LOYALTY SCHEMES AND TREATS

All the owners salonfocus spoke to offer additional incentives, ranging from a £30 voucher for the most positive social media reviews to paying staff a 10% commission on any products they sell. Although they say they add a sense of camaraderie and friendly competition, loyalty schemes are merely part of what they offer rather than the be-all and end-all.

That said, specific providers – such as Perkbox – have become more popular with small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs). They allow SMEs to offer employees access to deals and discounts with high-street brands, including supermarkets. Staff can be given a monthly allocation of FlexiPoints to spend on whatever they want. Its latest research finds that with the cost of living rising, it has seen Asda and Sainsbury’s redemptions increase by 32% and 31% respectively in the last year. Pirkx – another platform – costs SMEs £4.50 per employee per month, but the average employee can save £2000 per year just doing their usual spend.

63% 75% OF PEOPLE WORKING IN THE HAIR AND BEAUTY SECTOR ARE SELF-EMPLOYED

RESOURCES

● NHBF blog – Managing staff performance in your salon or barbershop: nhbf.co.uk/ staff-performance

● NHBF blog – Attracting staff: nhbf.co.uk/attracting-staff

IF PEOPLE DO LEAVE, RUN EXIT INTERVIEWS. THEY’RE HUGELY IMPORTANT AND HELP UNCOVER WHY THINGS HAVE BROKEN DOWN

OF HAIR AND BEAUTY BUSINESSES EMPLOY FEWER THAN FIVE PEOPLE, 94% EMPLOY FEWER THAN 10

BECOME AN EDUCATOR

1 STARTING OFF

Think about which route is right for you. Do you want the freedom of being your own boss, or prefer working for a brand? Award-winning educator Conor James Doyle says: ‘Having qualifications from wellknown brands certainly helps with credibility and problem-solving within the hair colour industry.’ Conor felt, when becoming an educator, that a deep understanding of colour theory and chemical processes would be a great foundation so, along with his extensive experience as a qualified hairdresser, he took the L’Oréal Colour Specialist course to learn about the science of hair and colour. Working with a brand means you get training and help with marketing and admin, but you must stick to its rules and regulations. If you want to become a National Vocational Qualification (NVQ), on-programme or end-point assessor you’ll need a Level 3 Certificate in Assessing Vocational Achievement (CAVA).

Passing on your skills to the next generation of industry professionals can be hugely rewarding and is a great way to develop your own career. So how do you become an educator?

WORDS KAYE McINTOSH

3 THE SEAL OF APPROVAL

If you are a freelancer, endorsement or accreditation from an awarding organisation or recognised trade body (see Resources) shows that your courses stand up to scrutiny. Amanda says: ‘Anybody can call themselves an educator so it’s important to get your course approved.’ Companies will have specific pathways for you to qualify to teach people about using their products.

2 KEY QUALITIES

NHBF president Amanda LodgeStewart says: ‘You’ve got to know your subject inside out, upside down and back to front – especially if you are working with apprentices, because employers will challenge you.’

It is important that you have the ability to scrutinise all the evidence when you are assessing your learners to identify gaps in knowledge and skills, she adds. This means you can give realistic, developmental feedback to help them understand how they can progress.

Preparation is vital, says Carolyn Sweeney, NHBF Board member and director of Kin Connect. ‘Think about what goals and targets you are setting, and put a lesson plan in place so you have some structure. Are you going to provide photography and videos to capture the results?’

4 GET INSURANCE

You need your own professional indemnity insurance and must check that any venue you use has public liability insurance. Conor says: ‘Insurance is nonnegotiable. You are at the mercy of your students and their models. You never want to be caught out.’

Carolyn adds: ‘You need to prove to the insurance company that you’ve got qualifications in the area that you are going to teach.’

5 HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

Carolyn says if you want to qualify as an assessor for learners studying hairdressing qualifications it might cost £300 to £600. If you want to work as a freelance salon educator, it’s down to you to decide how much you are willing to spend on publicity, marketing, any course materials you provide and venue hire.

6 HOW DO YOU ATTRACT STUDENTS?

THINK DIFFERENTLY

Many people attracted to hair and beauty are neurodivergent (see page 20), with conditions such as ADHD affecting how they process information. Conor says: ‘Everything comes down to your foundation and how you introduce the day. You want to immediately dispel anxieties by giving a clear structure.

‘Outline how information will be delivered through different mediums. Give an agenda beforehand and space to create comfortable learning environments. Incorporate breaks throughout the meeting or day and regularly summarise to keep people on board.’

It’s important to have clear and accessible policies that students can go to for support and information.

7 QUALIFICATIONS

You don’t need any particular qualifications to train people who are already qualified to work in the industry. Amanda says: ‘Anybody can just set up, call themselves an educator and offer courses.’ Working with brands means you must meet their standards, and teaching any government-funded training comes with extensive requirements.

Networking is key, Amanda says. ‘Industry events are an opportunity to get your name out there, and entering business awards is a great way to heighten your profile.’ Conor says creating great content on social media will attract students. ‘It’s about sharing your process. Be generous with your knowledge. Invite people to ask questions so you can start a conversation.’

RESOURCES

RESOU

Awarding organisations:

● VTCT: vtct.org.uk

● City & Guilds: cityandguilds.com

● Training Qualifications

UK: tquk.org

Recognised trade bodies:

● The Beauty Guild: beautyguild.com

● The Hair and Beauty Industry Authority

(Habia): habia.org

Your pregnancy and parenting questions answered – from how much leave someone can take to what they can claim.

EVERYONE IS ENTITLED TO TAKE UP TO 52 WEEKS OF MATERNITY LEAVE

as one of your team told you theyy’re The

Has one of your team told you they’re pregnant?

e third feature in our HR series explains what to do when someone announces they’re having a baby or tells you their partner is pregnant, and what you need to know about leave and pay.

Salon and barbershop owners should be aware of and understand their maternity and parental leave obligations to their employees, says NHBF director of membership Tina Beaumont. ‘There’s a lot to consider, so having a good policy in place that you and your employee can follow will help you avoid potential discrimination claims.’

DID YOU KNOW?

As a business owner, your rights to maternity or paternity will depend on whether or not you’re classed as an employee of your business.

NHBF Members can download a free staff handbook, which includes a maternity policy, at nhbf.co.uk/contracts

Tina adds: ‘You have a duty to protect staff, so it is critical that you carry out risk assessments as soon as you are notified of a pregnancy and on an ongoing basis as the pregnancy continues. You should also agree on the level of communication your employee wants to have while they are on maternity leave.’

Taking maternity leave

Everyone is entitled to take up to 52 weeks of maternity leave. ‘It’s important not to put pressure on a staff member to work,’ says Caroline Johnstone, senior employment law adviser at WorkNest. ‘If they are willing to do a keeping-intouch day while on maternity leave, or to attend training, you should arrange those around childcare and agree in advance what your employee will be paid.’

The earliest that maternity leave can start is 11 weeks before the week in which the baby is born. Your employee can work up to the birth of the baby if they choose to, but they must take at least two weeks off after the baby is born.

igi t

Eligibility for statutory maternity pay

Eligibilit y fo matern

nit y pa

r sttatutor o y ay ns th t at under the e nit i y pay (SMP) sc s heme, an may be entitled to up to

Caroline explains that under the statutory maternity pay (SMP) scheme, an employee may be entitled to up to 39 weeks of pay.

Carooliine exp x lain statutory matern

‘They should be paid 90% of their average weekly earnings for the first six weeks, and then paid SMP for the remaining 33 weeks or 90% of their average weekly earnings (whichever is the lower.’

SMP is based on what an employee earns in the eight weeks prior to the 15th week before their due date. To claim SMP, your employee must meet the following criteria:

● Have worked for you continuously for at least 26 weeks when they reach the 15th week before the expected week of the baby’s birth

● Be on your payroll in the qualifying week – the 15th week before the baby is due

● Give you 28 days’ notice of the date they want their SMP to start

● Give you proof they’re pregnant (you need to see their MAT B1 certificate)

● Have earned at least £123 a week (the current rate) in the past eight weeks (if paid weekly) or two months (if paid monthly) prior to the qualifying week.

To work out if an employee is entitled to SMP, use the online calculator at gov.uk/maternitypaternity-calculator

If your employee is thinking about taking shared parental leave, contact the NHBF’s legal helpline for advice. See nhbf.co.uk/legal

Claiming maternity allowance

If your employee is not entitled to SMP, they may be able to claim maternity allowance (the current rate is £172.48 a week). To qualify for maternity allowance, the person must have:

● been employed or self-employed for at least 26 weeks of the 66 weeks before the week the baby is due

● earned at least £30 a week in any 13 weeks of those 26 weeks.

CHECKLIST FOR MATERNITY LEAVE

Make sure you:

✓ Have a conversation with your employee to confirm when they are leaving and when they roughly intend to return. This will help you to plan for their absence. Confirm these dates in writing.

✓ Let your staff member know that if they want to delay their return or come back early, they need to let you know this in writing at least eight weeks before the expected return date.

✓ Encourage your employee to take some of their annual leave before they go on maternity leave. It accumulates while they are off and is automatically carried forward when they return.

Ca C roline says: ‘You need to give your employee an SMP1 form so they can claim maternity allowance.’

Claiming paternity leave and pay

If an employee’s partner is having a baby, they may be eligible for one or two weeks of paternity leave and statutory paternity pay (SPP).

Caroline explains: ‘To qualify for SPP, the employee must have worked for you continuously for at least 26 weeks by the end of the 15th week before the baby is due and earn at least £123 a week (the current rate). This option is open to all parents, regardless of gender.’

If your employee is not entitled to the time off and SPP, Caroline says that you should speak to them to agree unpaid leave or annual leave.

Support for adoptive parents

There are similar benefits for people who adopt. If one of your staff is adopting a child, they may be entitled to statutory adoption leave and statutory adoption pay or paternity leave. See Resources for further guidance.

g a child

Losing a child

If f someone’s child dies befoore tuurn 18, or if have a still l birt r h after r 24 weeks, may be e able to o receive v eitther or both h paarental ment leave e and d statutory What

If someone’s child dies before they turn 18, or if they have a stillbirth after 24 weeks, they may be able to receive either or both parental bereavement leave and statutory parental bereavement pay. What they’re entitled to receive depends on their employment status – whether they are classed as an ‘employee’ or a ‘worker’. Find out more via the links in Resources

Unfortunately, there is no current entitlement to leave for miscarriages, and it is likely that the right to take time off for neonatal care won’t be in place until 2025.

RESOURCES

● NHBF pregnancy and parenting guide: nhbf. co.uk/maternity-guide

● NHBF blog –Maternity and paternity pay for salon and barbershop staff: nhbf.co.uk/maternity-pay

● ACAS advice – Time off work for parents: acas.org. uk/time-off-for-parents

● Statutory leave and time off: bit.ly/ leave-and-time-off

FASHION OR FAUX PAS?

MODEL GENTS

London Fashion Week brought new incarnations of men’s hair looks for autumn/winter and beyond.

Jim Shaw, award-winning men’s hairdresser and director of Toni&Guy Billericay, shared his standout styles – including the slicked-back wet look with the added twist of kiss curls, as seen at the Daniel w. Fletcher show. A perfect look for adventurous clients, the kiss curls can be created with a tail comb and set with gel or wax.

Spikes are back, and are perfect for clients wanting a cool, edgy hairstyle that doesn’t require much work – just great products. At the Justin Cassin show they were paired with tapered sides, and a matte pomade is ideal to create the look.

Slick combovers with a deep side parting were spotted at Qasimi. Use the edge of the client’s eye as a guide for the parting, plus a comb and wax to keep flyaways at bay.

TWEAK TINIER

RUSH TO BLUSH?

Hailed as a more natural enhancement to lips than fillers, lip blushing is the semi-permanent make-up trend that’s got everyone talking.

Katie Piper is among the celebs to trial the treatment, in which pigments designed to fade over time are needled just under the top layer of the lip surface using a cosmetic tattoo gun. And despite reports of it being the fourth most concerncausing beauty treatment in the UK, with almost 2500 searches a month around botched procedures, it’s clearly piquing interest: #lipblushing on TikTok has gained 194.8 million views.

HAD ANY THOUGHTS

ABOUT WHAT YOU’VE READ?

TELL US ON OUR SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORMS

@NHBFSOCIAL

Although not a new trend, subtle anti-ageing injectables are enjoying a surge in popularity – with #babybotox enjoying more than 166 million views on TikTok. Taking its name from the concept of injecting a smaller amount of the toxin spread across the face to create a less ‘frozen’, fresher-looking complexion, baby Botox is ‘a great treatment for younger patients who don’t have many wrinkles yet’, says Dr Shaaira Nasir, consultant dermatologist at sk:n clinics – or simply for any clients wanting a lighter look. With preventative antiageing topping skin concerns for Generation Z patients, according to Fox Pharma, and baby Botox results touted to last for three months, the trend looks set to stay.

REPORT

THE TEXTURE GAP 2023

Presenting a data-driven profile of type 4 textured hair consumers, the report identifies common concerns and gaps in support related to textured hair, such as:

60%

of type 4 consumers have four or more concerns, compared with 35% of type 2

Hair loss or thinning concerns are highest, especially for type 4c consumers (45% vs 29% for type 2)

Online conversations about type 4 are growing eight times more than all other hair types

Almost a third go one to two months between hair washes

Whether you embrace them or buck them, we take a look at the latest trends.

IS IT INSTA GRAM MABLE?

Kinks, curls, coils and waves – we asked to see your work with textured hair and you didn't disappoint!

@thehairshiresalon Watford

@morganlebentzhair Norwich

@themusecurls Northampton

@hairloungebarnstaple Devon

@cornwallcurlspecialist Cornwall

Have you created a style that’s something you’re particularly proud of and want to shout about? Then post a picture to Instagram with the hashtags #salonfocus and #nhbfsocial and your shot could end up on these pages.

@riotcrrrl Brighton

@cyrl_cymru Aberystwyth

@kellyshairoxford Oxford

@thehairshiresalon Watford

@julie_bbhair Glasgow

@veritydoeshair Sheffield

@fusionhairco Lincolnshire

@hairbymaisielauren Oxford

FERGAL DOYLE

The winner of the Independent Salon – Business Newcomer at the British Hairdressing Business Awards 2023 on taking risks and the importance of teamwork.

Despite winning the ‘newcomer’ award... I have been a hairdresser for more than 20 years. I’ve worked in salons across the UK, and I’ve also been an educator and a colour consultant for Wella Professional. However, I’ve always wanted to be a salon owner.

our year-five targets in terms of finances, staff and awards.

Having a mentor has been really helpful... I work with Raymond Bottone from MySalonManager. He’s an amazing soundboard for all my terrible ideas, and for calming me down when I’m having panic attacks over everything.

It can be lonely sometimes… as a salon owner, but I love the freedom it gives me to do things my way. Also, being able to grow a team, nurture and educate them, and show them all the parts of hairdressing that I love – that’s probably the best and most rewarding part.

I would have struggled an awful lot. And, of course, the dedication of my wonderful team of six stylists, an assistant and a receptionist is also key to the salon’s success.

JUDGE'S COMMENT

I don’t feel the need to be validated… because I absolutely love my job, salon and team, but winning the award makes me feel validated by my peers and the industry. It makes me feel that what I do is good, that I’m going in the right direction, and that the risks I’ve taken have been worth it. Also, it is nice for my team especially to know that their hard work has paid off.

I had a mad moment… just after the pandemic, and I decided to quit my corporate job and start up my own salon in Stoke Bishop, Bristol. I’m pleased to say that I took a risk, and it has paid off

We only opened Fergal Doyle Hair in April 2022… but we have already hit

Having a supportive husband… who picks up the baton when I’m physically, emotionally and spiritually exhausted some days is key to my success. Without his support

Jayne Lewis-Orr, executive director of HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards, said: ‘In winning this category Fergal Doyle Hair has showcased impressive evidence of an exciting and successful new salon, with a growing clientele, loyal team and diverse service menu. I’m delighted to see Fergal’s hard work and talent recognised at this level.’

The next thing for Fergal Doyle Hair… is that we’ll be entering more awards in the future, and to be a finalist again would be a dream come true.

Awards presenter Craig Doyle with Fergal and NHBF president Amanda Lodge-Stewart