Between the Lines

Page 1

BETWEEN THE LINES issue 1: the heart of the city

BETWEEN THE LINES issue 1: the heart of the city

WELCOME は じ め たしお

etween the lines is a concept mag- Between the lines B azine created by nine students at Temple University, Japan Campus in Tokyo as a final project for the Senior/Sophomore Seminar of Summer 2013. The ambition was to create a series of magazines based on Tokyo’s central train lines - beginning with the iconic JR Yamanote. Between the lines would be a carefully curated selection of highlights from various stations around the loop line, covering a range of fields to appeal to a wide variety of readers. To further extend the reach of the magazine, the goal was to publish it simultaneously in both Japanese and English. Through eight weeks of dedicated work, not only exploring the city but also exploring approaches and techniques for design and publishing, Between the lines began to take form. The process has been rewarding not just in learning new skills, but in learning more about the city, and we’re proud to present to you the result of our work.

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は東京のテンプル倧

孊ゞャパンキャンパスの9人の孊生によ

っお、2013幎倏孊期のシニア・゜フォモ アセミナヌの䌁画ずしお䜜られたコンセ プト雑 誌です。銖 郜の象 城たる山手 線 を手始めに、東京の鉄道路線を網矅す る雑誌シリヌズを䜜ろうずいう野心ずず もにこの䌁 画はスタヌトしたした。B e tween the lines は、山手線呚蟺の、 慎重に遞び抜かれた様々なカテゎリヌ の名スポットを玹介しおおり、幅広い読 者局に興味をもっお頂けるものだず思い たす。より倚くの人たちに読んで頂きた いので、蚘事は日本語ず英語の䞡方で 曞かれおいたす。 街を探玢するだけではなく、デザむン や出 版 の 技 法も探 玢し続けた週 間 にわたる集䞭䜜業を通じお、Between the lines はだんだんず具䜓化しおい きたした。その過 皋は、新しいスキルを 孊べたずいうだけでなく、東京ずいう街 に぀いおの理解を深められたずいう点で も䟡倀のあるものでした。 ここに、私達の 努力の結果を皆さんに芋お頂けるこずを うれしく思いたす。

BETWEEN THE LINES issue 1: the heart of the city

郜心

the heart of the city, 13

東京を゚スケヌプしたい時

Escaping the city, 21 running in the city, 33

東京で走れ

fuel for the city, 41

東京のチカラ 東京の䌝統的な食事

tradition in the city, 51

東京でく぀ろぐ

wind down in the city, 57

東京のラむブシヌン

Music in the city, 63

東京ずアニメ

the other anime city, 71

東京の゚レクトリックシティヌ

the electric city, 81

東京の䌝統的なチャヌム

the charm of the city, 87

東京ずコヌヒヌ

coffee in the city, 99

For more contents, please visit the between

9

the lines webpage.

Natasha Vik

EDITOR-AT-LARGE Natasha Vik

ART DIRECTION

Richard Brahy, Davic Hansche, Andrew Smith, Natasha Vik

EDITORIAL

Natasha Vik

LAYOUT TRANSLATION

Emi Ferrie, Yosuke Nakata, Akira Okubo, Junko Yoshimaru

PHOTOGRAPHY

Richard Brahy, David Hanshe, Satomi Honjiyo, Emi Ferrie, Yosuke Nakata, Andrew Smith, Natasha Vik, Junko Yoshimaru

PHOTO EDITING

Natasha Vik

WEB CODING

David Hansche

WEB EDITING

David Hansche Richard Brahy, David Hanshe, Satomi Honjiyo, Emi Ferrie, Yosuke Nakata, Akira Okubo, Andrew Smith, Natasha Vik, Junko Yoshimaru

WRITERS

The between the lines team would like to express their gratitude to Professor Ronald Carr for his continued support and guidance this semester.

10

the heart of THE CITY 郜心

It’s been said that old European cities took their shape by forming around a church, creating a natural city centre often bustling with life. Conversely, the physical centre of Tokyo is more or less the Imperial Palace - an expansive area that is off-limits to most citizens. Rather, Tokyo is a city with a number of distinct city centres, each catering to a different purpose: Shinagawa and Tokyo are the business hubs, Shibuya the night playground, Harajuku the fashion mecca, and so on. What these areas all have in common is their connection to the JR Yamanote train line, the icon city loop. Having existed in some form or another since 1885, it’s is an inseperable part of the Tokyo cityscape.

東京の倧郜垂には䞭心ずなる䞀぀の街があるの

ではなく、 目的別で個々に倧きな圹目を果おしおい たす。䟋えば、東京ず品川はビゞネスの䞭心地、新 宿はビゞネスず快楜の混合する街、枋谷は若者の 遊び堎、原宿はファッションの発信地、等ずざっく り分ける事が出来る。 この個性豊かな数倚くの街 の共通点ずなるのがそれらを倧きな円で繋ぐJRå±± 手線である。明治幎西暊幎に蚭立さ れ、時を経お少しず぀東京に䜏む人々ず共に成長 しお来たこの山手線は、東京ず蚀う倧郜垂には必 芁䞍可欠な存圚ず蚀えるでしょう。

PHOTO: NATASHA VIK

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ESCAPING THE CITY 東 京 ã‚’ã‚š スケ ヌプしたい 時

Tokyo is easily perceived as something of an endless jumble of buildings and skyscrapers, constructed haphazardly wherever there was deemed enough space. The city is often referred to as a concrete jungle, as many cities of it’s kind are. However more so than people realize, Tokyo is abundant with green spaces hidden behind it’s looming structures. The city’s parks are ideal for refreshing your body and mind, with gardens and streams as a welcome change from city scenery. 東京はゎタゎタずした建物の無秩序な密集が延

々ず広がっおいる堎所ずいうむメヌゞを倚くの人が 抱いおいたす。 この街は他の倧郜垂ず同じように、 しばしば「コンクリヌト・ゞャングル」 ず呌ばれたす。 しかし、人々が思う以䞊に、東京にはそびえた぀ビ ル矀の䞭に隠された緑地がたくさんあるのです。 そ れらの公園には、郜䌚の景色ずは察照的な庭園や 小川があり、心ず䜓をリフレッシュしおくれたす。

TEXT: AKIRA OKUBO 日本語: AKIRA OKUBO PHOTO: NATASHA VIK

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UENO Park If you want to spend a sophisticated holiday in Tokyo, Ueno Park is a must-visit spot. In the Edo period (1603-1868) the park was the ground of the Kaneiji temple. Already then, it was famed for its cherry blossoms and became a popular playground for the citizens of Edo. Now, the park has some 1,200 cherry trees and draws 2 million blossom-viewers every spring. Ueno also has one of the biggest ponds in downtown Tokyo, Shinobazuike. Here you can rent boats -- particulalry popular with couples -- enjoy a leisurly afternoon and a close-up of the pond’s beautiful lotus flowers. Located here are a number of prestigious museums, all of them in possession of precious collections. The Tokyo National Museum in particular is worth a visit for it’s permanent exhibition spanning Japanese history, as well as special exhibitions. The park is also home to Ueno Zoo. Among the 3000 animals housed here, the giant panda have become the symbol of the zoo. The pandas, gifted from China, created renewed interest and the zoo now draws 7million visitors annually.

東京で掗緎された䌑日を過ごしたいな らば、䞊野恩賜公園は最も適した堎所 のひず぀です。䞊野恩賜公園のある堎所 は江戞時代には寛氞寺の敷地でした。 そのころからすでに、 この堎所は桜で有 名で、江戞の垂民に人気の行楜地でし た。珟圚、公園には1200本の桜の朚が あり、毎幎春には200䞇人の花芋客が 蚪れたす。公園内には郜心で最も倧きい 池の䞀぀である䞍忍池があり、䞀般向 けにボヌトが貞し出されおいたす。これ は特にカップルに人気です。ボヌトの䞊 では、のんびりずした午埌を過ごすこずも できたすし、氎面の矎しい蓮の花を間近 で眺めるこずもできたす。 たた、 この公園にはいく぀もの有名博 物 通 があり、貎 重なコレクションを保 持しおいたす。特に、東 京 囜 立 博 物 通 の、日本の歎 史を網 矅した垞 èš­ 展ず特 別 展の数々はお勧めです。公 園内には 侊 野 動 物 園もありたす。この動 物 園の シンボルずいえばゞャむアントパンダで す。1972幎に䞭囜からパンダが莈られ お人気を博しお以来、䞊野動物園の来 園者数は毎幎700䞇人を超えおいたす。

Shinjuku Gyoen Shinjuku station is one of Tokyo’s major train hubs, and has the highest number of daily commuters in the world. Out the west exit is the skyscraper district, one of Japan’s main business districts; to the east side is constantly buzzing neighbourhood for shopping, eating, and drinking. But only a 10 minutes walk from this sleepless town is Shinjuku Gyoen; an expansive national park over roughly 580.000 square meters. The vast grass fields and tall trees are a rare sight in downtown Tokyo. Once the grounds of an Edo feudal lord’s mansion, the park was offered to the Japanese government in Meiji period. During this period, the grounds were used to examine newly imported plant life from Europe and West landscape planning, which became the basis for the present scenery of the park. It now holds several gardens, in Japanese, British, and French styles, as well as an impressive greenhouse. As it’s a government-owned park, there is an entrance fee of 200 yen, but it is worth the cost as the the park is one of the city’s most beautiful.

新宿駅は東京の鉄道網の䞭枢のひず぀で、鉄 道の駅ずしおは、䞖界䞀の利甚者数を誇りたす。 駅の西偎には有名な高局ビル矀があり、日本有 数のオフィス街ずなっおいたす。東偎は四六時䞭 にぎわいを芋せるショッピングず飲 食 店の街で す。 この眠らない街から埒歩10分皋のずころにあ るのが新宿埡苑です。面積が玄58䞇平方メヌト ルもあるこの巚倧な囜民庭園の䞭には、郜心で は珍しい広倧な芝の広堎や巚朚がありたす。 江戞時代の頃は、 この庭園のある堎所は有力 倧名の屋敷の敷地でした。明治時代になり新政 府に䞊玍されるず、 この土地は、新たに茞入され た怍物や、その栜培方法を研究するために䜿わ れたした。 その埌、庭園ずしお倧改造され、新宿埡 苑の珟圚の景色の基瀎はこのずきにできたした。 園内には日本匏、英囜匏、 フランス匏の庭園ず、 巚倧な枩宀がありたす。入堎は有料ですが、東京 で最も矎しい庭園のひず぀なので、入堎料200円 を払う䟡倀は十分すぎるほどありたす。酒類の持 ち蟌み、遊具の䜿甚は犁止されおいたす。

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MEIJI SHRINE

代々朚公園に隣接した代々朚の杜にあるのが 明治神宮です。明治神宮は明治倩皇ずその劻の 昭憲皇倪后を祀っおいたす。神瀟を囲む薄暗い

Adjacent to Yoyogi Park, on the forest of Yoyogi grounds, is the Meiji Shrine. This shrine honors Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Dowager Shōken. In the dim and quiet forest that surrounds it, trees grow abundant, creating a mystic atmosphere. It’s hard to believe it is right next to the hustle and bustle of Harajuku’s shopping streets. The heavy foliage also keeps the forest cool, making it an ideal place to espace in the summer heat, Meiji shrine is also the most popular spot for hatsumoude, the New Years tradition of visiting shrines and temples in the early days of January, to pay their respects. Each year, the shrine gathers roughly 3 million people in the first three days of the new year, making the sacred forest extraordinally packed. While the prospect of such crowds may seem daunting, hatsumoude at Meiji shrine is a unique event worth experiencing.

静かな森で、朚々は豊かに育ち、神秘的な雰囲気 を぀くり出しおいるので、 ここが原宿のショッピン グ街の喧隒のすぐ隣だずいうこずは、にわかには 信じがたいかもしれたせん。たた、生い茂った朚 々の葉が涌しい日陰を䜜っおくれるので、倏の暑 さを避けるにはぎったりの堎所です。 明治神宮は日本でもっずも人気のある初詣スポ ットで、毎幎䞉が日におよそ300䞇人を集めおい たす。 この期間、神聖な代々朚の杜は人で埋め尜 くされたす。人ごみず聞くずげんなりする人は倚い でしょうが、 それでも明治神宮での初詣は経隓す る䟡倀のある類のないむベントです。

Kyu-Shibarikyu & HAMARIKYU GardenS 旧芝離宮恩賜庭園ず浜離宮恩賜庭園は、新橋

The Kyu-Shibarikyu and Hamarikyu Gardens are both located on reclaimed land near the seaside of the neighboring Shinbashi and Hamamatsucho stations. Both are venerable gardens which were owned by Tokugawa clan in the Edo period, and later by the Imperial house in the Meiji period. Through their centuries-long history, the gardens have been meticulously crafted by their successive owners. The gardens offer visitors a quiet escape from the nearby business district, where visitors can enjoy fantastic traditional Japanese landscape architecture. A pond in Hamarikyu Garden connects to the water of Tokyo Bay and transforms its view by taking advantage of the coming and going of the tide. With the gardens are now owned by Tokyo metropolitan government, there is a small entrance fee:150 yen for Kyu-Shibarikyu garden, and 300 yen for Hamarikyu garden.

駅ず浜束町駅に近い沿岞郚の埋立地にありたす。 どちらも江戞時代には埳川氏、明治時代には皇 宀によっお所有された由緒正しい庭園です。 この 二぀の庭園は、数癟幎に枡るその歎史の間、代々 の所有者によっお粟巧な改築をほどこされおきた した。 来蚪者は、呚囲のビゞネス街の喧隒から逃れ、 玠晎らしい䌝統的造園術の成果を楜しむこずが できたす。浜離宮恩賜庭園の朮入の池は東京湟 ず぀ながっおおり、朮の満ち匕きに䌎っおその景 芳を倉えたす。二庭園は珟圚東京郜の所有ずな っおいたす。入園料は旧芝離宮恩賜公園が150 円、浜離宮恩賜公園が300円です。

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SHIMO-OCHiAI FOREST If you walk north-west for 10 minutes after exiting Takadanobaba station, you will come to a quiet leafy residential area on a slanted piece of land. Although the Shimo-Ochiai area is in the middle of the bustle of the urban city, it preserves a beautiful primeval forest, gathering wild birds and other creatures. This forest is made up of the green space of nearby Yakuouin temple, Shimo-Ochiai Yachonomori park, Otomeyama park, and grounds of residents. An old mansion in the area even preserves a 200-year-old camphor tree. Otomeyama park has natural spring water, and the water from it creates a stream and ponds, making it a popular playspot among children, who try to catch crawfish in the water with handmade fishing rods made from chopsticks. This park also cultivates fireflies, using the water, and every summer a firefly appreciation party is held. The forest of Simo-Ochiai is also famous for the wild raccoon dogs which inhabit it.

高田銬堎駅から北西に10分歩くず、傟斜地にあ る緑豊かで閑静な䜏宅地に着きたす。この䞋萜 合地区は東京の喧隒の真ん䞭にありながら、野 鳥などの野生動物が集たる矎しい原生林を保持 しおいたす。䞋萜合の森は、薬王院、䞋萜合野鳥 の森公園、おずめ山公園ずその呚蟺の䜏宅敷地 内の朚々で構成されおいたす。 この地区にある某 叀屋敷には暹霢200幎のクスノキがありたす。 おずめ山公園には倩然の湧き氎があり、小川や 池を圢成しおいたす。 ここでは昔から、割り箞を䜿 った手䜜りの竿でザリガニを捕たえるのが、子䟛 たちの間で人気の遊びです。この公園では湧き 氎を利甚しおホタルが育おられおおり、毎幎倏に 「ホタル鑑賞䌚」が開かれおいたす。䞋萜合の森 は野生のタヌキが生息しおいるこずで有名です。

The

Ueno Park is accessible from Ueno Station,

Hamarikyu

Garden

is

accessible

from

Shinbashi Station, Shiodome Exit (新橋駅汐

Park Exit (䞊野駅公園口), or Ueno Station,

留出口)

Shinobazu Exit (䞊野駅䞍忍池口)

OPEN: 9AM to 45PM

The Meiji shrine is accessible from Harajuku Station, Omotesando Exit (原宿駅衚参道

The Shimo-Ochiai Forest is accessible from

OPEN: 9AM to 4PM

駅早皲田口)

口)

Takadanobaba Station, Waseda Exit (高田銬堎

Shinjuku Gyoen is accessible from Yoyogi Station, East Exit (代々朚駅東口) , or Shinjuku Station, South-east Exit (新宿駅東南口) OPEN: 9AM to 4PM / CLOSED: Monday (月) The

Kyu-Shibarikyu

Garden

is

accessible

from Hamamatsucho Station, North Exit (浜 束町北口),

OPEN: 9AM to 5PM

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RUNNING IN THE CITY 東 京 で èµ° れ

Finding a suitable jogging path in the crowded city of Tokyo, Japan can be a challenge. Fortunately the city hosts a variety of beautiful green spaces and convenient trails for both professional and recreational runners. A running enthusiast himself, Andrew Smith presents a rundown of some popular places near the Yamanote line for those restless legs. .

この混雑した東京の街で適したゞョギング道を

芋぀けるのは簡 単なこずではないず思いたす。た だ、幞運にも東京は、 しっかり芋枡せば緑があり綺 麗でゞョギングに適した道がたくさんありたす。 ここ では山手線沿いにあるいく぀かの人気のゞョギン グコヌスを玹介したす。

TEXT: Andrew Smith 日本語: Yosuke Nakata PHOTO: Andrew Smith

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Yoyogi Park Yoyogi park is one of Tokyo’s largest green areas. This beautiful area is located only five minutes from Harajuku Station. Year-round, Yoyogi park offers stunning scenery and a lively community of outdoors enthusiasts. On the weekends you can often find amusing dance groups, musicians, and other events, making your run more entertaining. There is plenty of room to jog freely on the ground’s spacious, green lawns. Also a shady cover from the canopy of tree branches above provides runners with a cool and easy run during the summer, but watch out for local picnickers and photographers.

代々朚公園は東京に数ある倧きな緑地 の぀です。 この緑が生い茂った玠晎ら しい広倧な公園は山手線の原宿駅から 埒歩分の堎所に䜍眮しおいたす。 幎 䞭ここ代々朚公園では矎しい景色を芋 るこずができ、 そしお掻気のあるいろいろ なグルヌプ掻動などが行われおいたす。 週末には頻繁に音楜掻動やダンスパフ ォヌマンスなど楜しいむベントを芋るこ ずができるので、楜しい時間を過ごすこ ずができたす。

この代々朚 公 園の綺 麗で 広

倧な敷地はゞョギングが奜きな人達に ずおも適しおいたす。朚などもたくさん生 い茂っおいるので、日陰もたくさんあり、 倏でも比范的涌しく快適な時間が過ご せるず思いたす。ただ、 ピクニックに来お

Access from Harajuku Station’s Omotesando Exit / 原宿駅衚参道出口

いる䞀般客や写真を撮っおいる方など の邪魔にはならないように泚意したしょ う。

Meguro River Meguro is a beautiful and convenient jogging route for any recreational runner. The river is accessible from Meguro, Ebisu, Gotanda, and Osaki Station. Along the Meguro River there are plenty of shops and restaurants making it a convenient route to discover new places during a relaxing run. In the springtime, cherry blossom petals drift down onto the path from the side of the river, and the branches provide cover for a cool make this destination one of the most popular paths in Tokyo. Some areas around the river can sometimes be crowded with pedestrians, so the ideal time to start your run would be early morning or in the evening. Access from Meguro Station / 目黒駅

目黒は綺麗でどのランナヌにも適しおい るゞョギングルヌトがありたす。 この目黒 川は目黒駅、恵比寿駅、五反田駅、そし お倧厎駅からも来やすい堎所に䜍眮し おいたす。目黒川沿いにはたくさんのお 店ずレストランがあり、ゞョギングをしな がら新たなお店などの発芋ができるの は、目黒川沿いでのゞョギングの぀の 楜しみです。

春には目黒川沿いにある桜䞊

朚を芋ながら気持ちよくゞョギングする こずもできたすし、春の終わりには桜が 萜ちお地 面が桜だらけになりその䞊を 走るのもたた楜しみの1぀です。目黒川 沿いは歩行者などでたたに混み合った りするのでゞョギングするのに適した時 間垯は朝の早い時間か倜でしょう。

The imperial palace The Imperial Palace is an inspiring place for history buffs and photographers, but it is also very popular among the jogging community. The track is marked well as joggers make their way around the 5.5 kilometer loop, so it’s easy for serious runners to track their time. Since the Imperial Palace is such a beautiful and historical monument, it sometimes may be crowded. I recommend that the more serious runner avoid this area during busy tourist seasons, but at a slower pace, the path is wide enough to easily avoid collisions. To avoid traffic, running at night time may be perfect. There are always guards patrolling the grounds, so it is a very safe area for anyone to enjoy.

Access from Tokyo or Yurakucho Station / 東京駅ず有楜町駅

皇居は歎史奜きな人や写真家などを錓 舞する堎所であるず同時にゞョギングす るのに適した堎 所ずしおも非 垞に人 気 な堎 所です。皇 居の呚りは呚玄、  キロなので時間を蚈りたいランナヌなど にずっおは非垞にいいランニングコヌス になっおいたす。皇 居はずおも矎しく歎 史ある建造物なので、たたに週末などは 芳光客などで混み合うこずがありたす。 なので、芳光客などが倚いシヌズンは皇 居の呚りを本栌的に走るのはお勧めし たせんが、十分なスペヌスはありたすの で、ゆっくり走るのでしたら問 題ないず 思いたす。倜でしたら、人混みもなく自分 のペヌスで走れるず思いたす。皇居呚蟺 は垞に譊備員がパトロヌルしおいるので 倜でも安党に気持ちよく走るこずができ るでしょう。

Fuel for THE CITY 東 京 の チ カラ

From Akihabara to Tamachi Station, Richard Brahy searches for the best haunts for Japan’s representative food for fuel; ramen. Around lunchtime, ramen shops will fill shoulder-to-shoulder with dark suits as the area’s businesspeople feast. Ramen, a noodle based dish served in savory broths witha variety of toppings, is the fast and filling power lunch that Tokyoites recharge with.

今回のラヌメン店のレビュヌを曞くにあたっお山手 線の秋葉原駅ず田町駅の間のラヌメン店で曞くこ ずに決めたした。お昌時にはスヌツを着たビゞネス マン達でラヌメン店は混雑しおいたす。 ビゞネスマ ンが倚い理由はラヌメンは他の料理ず比べるず出 来䞊がるのが早く、そしおお腹も充分満たしおくれ お゚ネルギヌを玠早く補充できるからです。

TEXT: RICHARD BRAHY 日本語: Yosuke Nakata PHOTO: RICHARD BRAHY

41

Jiro Ramen/ラヌメン二郎 Chiyoda-ku Kajicho 2-10-10 枯区䞉田䞁目−−

OPEN: 9AM-8PM (M~S/月〜金) (shop closes temporarily between3PM~5PM) CLOSED: Sundays and holidays / 日・祝日

ラヌメンを食べる際に音をたおお食べ

Unlike western culture, where making loud noises as you eat is considered rude, slurping up ramen noodles from their hot broth is the way to showing the ramen artisans how much you appreciate their creation. Though it is a dish with Chinese origins, Ramen has become one of the most beloved comfort foods in Japan, with each region having their distinct versions. From Hokkaido in the north, there’s butter miso ramen; in the south, Kyushu’s tonkatsu ramen rules. The variations seem endless, and so do the amount of ramen shops. Although it is a very tempting feat to try every single ramen shop in existence, it would be nearly impossible. In Tokyo alone, there are an estimated 5-6000 ramen shops -- meaning you would have to eat ramen three times a day for almost five and a half years before getting through them all. Or, if eating soup three times a day is too much for you, you could always opt to eat a bowl once a day, for around 16 years...

るのを倱 瀌な行 為ずみなすペヌロッパ の文化ず違い、 日本では麺をすする際に 音をたおるこずによっおラヌメン職人に そのラヌメンに察しおの敬意を衚しおい たす。ラヌメンの起源はは䞭囜ですが、 日本では地域によっお異なった独特の ラヌメンがあるなど、日本人に愛される 料理の぀になっおいたす。北は北海道 の味噌バタヌラヌメン、南は九州の豚骚 ラヌメンなど、バラ゚ティヌ豊富なラヌメ ンはたくさんありたす。 東京には玄5-6000のラヌメン店があ り、 もしそのラヌメン店党おに行くなら 日に食ラヌメンを食べたずしおも幎 半かかるこずになりたす。 もし、毎日ラヌ メンを食べるのが苊痛なら日回ご飯 を食べるこずができたすが、 幎かか る蚈算になりたす...

43

Tokyo Raamen Tower/東京らあめんタワヌ Minato-ku Hamamatsucho 1-27-4 枯区浜束町1−27−4

OPEN:

10:30AM-10PM (M~S/月〜金) (shop closes temporarily between3PM~5PM) 10:30AM-3PM (S~S/ 土・祝日)

While searching for a fishing store a short walk from the south exit of Kanda station, I stumbled upon a shop that now ranks as one of my favorites: Karashibi Kikanbou. The name comes from the metal bat that the Japanese ogres carry around with them. The shop is laden with oni themed decorations, and the ramen packs a demonically fiery punch. One of the more expensive shops, my favorite offering comes at ¥1150. Don’t be alarmed, however, as the spicy miso-based ramen is worth the price. The shop allows you to customize the spice-level by mixing classic red pepper with shibi, a unique Sichuan peppercorn oil, at your preference. The combination of spices is likely to numb your mouth - which isn’t as unpleasant as it sounds. When I want a cheap and hearty bowl of ramen, Jiro Ramen is my goto spot. Toppings include a handful of cooked cabbage, bean sprouts, thickly sliced chāshū, and a heaping spoonful of raw garlic. While you can opt out of any of these toppings, it would take away from the Jiro experience. Even hours later, you will be reminded of your meal by the garlicky taste in your mouth. Prices start at a reasonable ¥600. Located conveniently near the station, Aoshima Shokudo Akihabara is surprisingly high-tech. Their touchscreen ordering machine complete with photos can be extremely helpful for the foreigner who can’t read Japanese. With traditional toppings of thinly sliced chāshū, spinach, a sheet of dried seaweed, chopped green onions, bamboo shoots, and a thinly sliced piece of fish cake, this shop delivers a effortless classic bowl of shōyu chāshū ramen.

カラシビ味噌らヌ麺 鬌金棒は私が 神田駅の南口で魚釣りの道具などが売 っおいるショップを探しおいる時に発芋 し、いたでは数あるお気に入りのラヌメ ン屋の぀になりたした。店内は店名の 通り鬌のお面や鬌に関するグッズなどで デコレヌションしおありたす。 このお店で 私のお気に入りのラヌメンがあるのです が倀段は高く円したす。 ただ、蟛めの味噌ベヌス、 そしお他のラ ヌメン店ではほが味わうこずができない であろう驚く皋でかくお分厚くゞュヌシ ヌで矎味しいチャヌシュヌを䞀床食べ おみれば円払う䟡倀ありだず思 いたす。刞売機で刞を買った埌、店員に 枡すのですが、蟛さずシビレの床合いを 聞かれたす。ここでいうシビレずは山怒 のこずを蚀いたす。シビレを匷めにするず ラヌメンを食べた埌、舌がしびれた感じ になるのですが、嫌な感じのしびれでは ないので䞀床詊しおみるのもありだず思 いたす。 ラヌメン二郎は、私が安くおボリュヌ ミヌなラヌメンが食べたいずきに行く堎 所です。 トッピングはこれでもかずいう皋 の量のキャベツ、 もやし、分厚くスラむス されたチャヌシュヌ、 そしおガヌリックで す。食埌、数時間経っおもここ二郎で食 べたラヌメンの味、ガヌリックが口の䞭 に残っおいたす。 それくらい、印象に残る ラヌメンです。倀段は円からずなっ おいたすが、この番安いラヌメンでも 食べきるのがやっずのくらいの量です。 こ のラヌメン二郎のラヌメンを初めお食べ たら倧奜きになるか倧嫌いになるかのど っちかになりたす。ちなみに私は倧奜き になりたした。

Karashibi Kikanbou/カラシビ味噌らヌ麺 鬌金棒 Chiyoda-ku Kajicho 2-10-10 枯区浜束町䞁目−−

OPEN:

11AM-9:30PM (M~S/月〜土) 11AM-4PM (S/日)

Ramen Glossary チャヌシュヌ

chāshū: pork

ボニト

bonito: dried fish flakes, used as topping or as a broth base

なるず

naruto: fish cake with a distinct round shape, with a distinct pink and white swirl

å¡© 醀油 ずんこ぀

shio: salt, or salt-based broths. shōyu: soysauce, or soy-based broths tonkostu: heavy, pork-based broths

Tokyo Raamen Tower is a five-minute walk from Hamamatsucho Station. I sampled the shop’s shio chāshū ramen, which, unlike regular shio ramen, uses bonito flakes to give their broth a distinct, pleasantly savory taste known as umami. Toppings include the traditional fare of bamboo shoots and chāshū, but it’s the peculiar addition of chopped parsley and a small amount of chopped yuzu (a small Japanese citrus fruit) peel which really give this ramen a refreshingly light flavor. This bowl of ramen costs ¥900. It is definitely worth the price, especially if you haven’t had tried a shio ramen yet.

この青島食堂 秋葉原店は山手線の秋葉原駅から近く、矎味しくおずおも店内が綺麗なラヌメ

ン店です。店内にあるタッチ匏の刞売機はどのラヌメンにも写真が぀いおいお日本語が読めない 倖囜人にずっおもわかりやすくなっおいたす。私は醀油チャヌシュヌ麺を頌みたした。 トッピングは 日本のラヌメンの䌝統的な薄くスラむスされたチャヌシュヌ、ほうれんそう、也燥ワカメ、長ネギ、 メンマ、 そしお薄くスラむスされたフィッシュケヌキでした。 ずおもシンプルでクラシックなラヌメン ですが、 ずおも矎味しいラヌメンでした。倀段は䞀番安くお円からずなっおいたす。 東京らあめんタワヌは山手線の浜束町駅から埒歩分のずこに䜍眮しおいたす。今回私は普通 の塩ベヌスのラヌメンではなく、ダシにうたみを出すためにか぀お節を䜿った塩チャヌシュヌ麺 を頌みたした。 トッピングはメンマ、チャヌシュヌ、现かく刻たれたパセリ、 そしおラヌメンをさっぱ りした味わいにさせるためのゆずの皮が入っおいたした。 この塩チャヌシュヌメンは円した したが、 この倀段の䟡倀は充分あるラヌメンだったず思いたす。

Aoshima Shokudo Akihabara/ 青島食堂 秋葉原店 Chiyoda-ku Kandasakumacho 2-10-10 千代田区神田䜐久間町3 䞁目-20-1

OPEN:

11:30AM-7PM (W~M/氎〜月) Tuesdays off (火曜は䌑日)

50

tradition in the CITY 東京の䌝統的な食事

Meguro station is situated on the south on the Yamanote Line, and is a versatile and beautiful area for people of all ages. There are beautiful shrines, large office buildings and myriads of schools, and so naturally, Meguro is a vivacious area. In lively cities there are always a plethora of great restaurants, and Meguro is no exception. Anyone from or living in Tokyo would know of the name Gonnosuke-zaka, which is a steady sloping hill overflowing with bars, cafés and restaurants. Here are three restaurants that have been doing delicious business for decades in the area, serving traditional Japanese dishes at affordable prices 山手線の南偎に䜍眮する目黒駅呚蟺はずおも賑

やかで幎霢局の幅広い玠敵な街です。オフィスが 䞊んだり、様々なゞャンルの孊校があり、実に掻気 のある街です。掻気のある堎所には必ずず蚀える 皋矎味しい飲食店が集いたすが、目黒もその勿論 その䞀䟋ず蚀えるでしょう。東京出身、 もしくは圚䜏 の方なら誰でも聞いた事であろう暩乃助坂には数 え切れない皋のカフェ、バヌずレストランが䞊んで いお、初心者であればどれから詊しおみようか迷っ おしたうでしょう。 この蚘事で玹介する軒のお店 は長幎目黒で営業しおいる、 リヌズナブルで矎味し い日本料理を提䟛しおいるレストランです。

TEXT: EMI FERRIE 日本語: EMI FERRIE PHOTO: EMI FERRIE

51

ずん か ぀ずんき

目黒区䞋目黒䞁目−− Meguro-ku, Shimo-Meguro 1-1-2

Tonki is a restaurant that specializes in tonkatsu, or deep fried pork, and has been in business for over 50 years. The venue seats 90 people, and is completely non-smoking. Although on its home page it says that it is open for lunch time, it is currently only open from 4PM; perhaps the opening hours shift from time to time, so it is crucial to confirm beforehand when it is open. The popularity of the restaurant is evident in that it is crowded during most of its operating hours, but the waiting time is not too intense because most customers leave immediately after they eat their food. To be mercilessly honest, it is not the absolute best tonkatsu out there, but the service is superb and it is truly entertaining to be able to watch all the workers doing their specific jobs. There is an area to fry the meat, an area to cut the fried meat, a person who specifically takes orders and seats waiting customers and so on. It is a clean, spacious facility with exquisite service and affordable and delicious tonkatsu. 目黒駅から歩いお䞉分皋、暩之助坂の始たり蟺りの小道に入ったずこに幎以

䞊も営業しおいる 「ずんき」 ず蚀う有名なずんか぀屋さんがありたす。 階はカりンタ ヌ垭、 階はテヌブル垭の蚈の犁煙垭がありたす。 ホヌムペヌゞにはランチの時 間も営業しおいるず蚘茉されおいたすが今のずころは午埌時からの営業のみ、火 曜日ず第䞉月曜日が䌑みですヌもしかしたら時折営業時間が倉わるかもしれない ので行く予定であるのならば前もっおお店に電話を入れお確認するのが無難かも しれたせん。営業時間に店前を通り掛るず垞に列がある印象がありたすが、私がお 店に蚪れた時は案倖スむスむず列は枛っお行き、思いの他埅ち時間は長くなかった です。 正盎な話「ずんきのずんか぀は䞖界䞀」 ずは蚀い難いですが、接客態床ず掻気あ る店員さん達がおきぱき仕事をこなす姿がカりンタヌから芋れるのはずんか぀屋さ んずしおは珍しくお䜕だかわくわくしおしたいたす。肉を切る係り、肉を揚げる係り、オ ヌダヌを取る係り、 ず各自圹目が決たっおいるようで、絶劙なチヌムワヌクでさくさく 仕事をこなす光景は実に芋ものです。広くお小奇麗な店内、最高のサヌビスず玍埗 の味ず䟡栌―目黒に立ち寄っお小腹が空いおる堎合は是非チャレンゞしおみお䞋 さい。

べ ったこ

目黒区䞋目黒䞁目−5−1 Meguro-ku, Shimo-Meguro 1-5-21

The original Bettako was built exactly thirty years ago in Jiyugaoka, a ten minute train ride or so from Meguro Station. The one near Meguro station is half way down Gonnosuke-zaka, the area most dense with restaurants in the region. The venue seats 80 people with smoking and non-smoking areas, and is open from 5PM until 2:30 – 4AM, depending on the day of the week. Because Meguro is a pretty popular residential area, many restaurants close by around midnight, and a venue that is open until this late becomes really handy. Bettako is a classic Japanese izakaya, and the menu includes sashimi, nabe, yakitori and other traditional foods, and the drink menu is extensive, mainly focusing on sours and shochu.

こ元々は目黒ではなく自由が䞘発祥のこの「べったこ」 ず蚀う居酒屋さんですが、 チェヌン店に

も関わらず䜕だかアットホヌムな雰囲気をかもし出しおいたす。目黒店は暩之助坂を半分くらい 䞋ったずころにある地䞋階にある分煙されたお店です。営業開始時間は毎日時ですが、終了 時間は日によっお異なりたす。金曜ず土曜が䞀番遅く、意倖ずどこも閉店時間が早い目黒駅呚蟺 では珍しい朝の時たで開いお居たすので、終電を逃しがちな方は芁チェックです。 「お勧め、 もし くは䞀番人気な料理っお䜕ですか」 ず倧将に聞いおみたずころ 「特にないよ、焌き鳥ずかかな 」 ず蚀う曖昧な答えが返っお来た時は少々䞍安でしたが、䜕を頌んでも玠材の矎味しさを䞊手く 匕き出しおいお本圓にどれも文句の぀けようのない仕䞊がりでした。店内は䞭々賑やかな雰囲気 なので、元気をもらいたい時行くのには最適かもしれたせんね。

こん ぎら茶 屋

品川区䞊倧厎3䞁目−3−1 Shinagawa-ku, Kami-Osaki 1-1-2

Situated a quick walk from the main restaurant area of Gonnosukezaka is Konpira-Chaya, a small venue that started business in 1983 that specializes in udon. It is especially famous for curry udon, a dish that is particularly popular in the summer time. The restaurant only seats 20 people, and because of the limited size, one must share a table with other people when it is busy. It is open from 11 until 1am, and although there is one menu, as opposed to lunch/dinner, during lunch time, one may get a large side dish donburi, or rice bowl with various toppings such as salmon or cod roe, for only 130 yen. They add a few limited menus according to the season; for the summer time they serve cold udon and fresh salad udon. The venue is meant for a small group, and is perfect for a quick visit alone since it is a calm and quiet venue.

目黒駅から癜金台方面に目黒通りを歩いおおよそ分にあるのが幎に開業した 「こん

ぎら茶屋」 ず蚀ううどん屋さんです。特に有名なのが他のお店ず比べお少々こっおり目なカレヌう どんです。 こちらのカレヌうどんには普通ず蟛口があるのですが、普段蟛い物が苊手な私が意を 決しお埌者を頌んだずころ党然平気でした。 垭しかないこじんたりずしたお店なので昌時など 忙しい時は合垭をする必芁がありたす。 この蟺で昌営業しおるレストランでは珍しくランチメニュ ヌはありたせんが、 円で鮭や明倪子の䞌ぶりを付ける事が出来たす。女性や小食の方には 嬉しい半玉サむズもありたす。季節限定のメニュヌも随時远加しおいるようなので、䞀人や少人 数で通り掛ったならばふらっお入っおみるのもいいかもしれたせん。

54

The other anime CITY 東京ずアニメ

As an avid anime and manga fan, one of Satomi Honjiyo’s favorite cities along the Yamanote Line is one of the major anime hubs; Ikebukuro. While many people are aware of the popular anime city Akihabara, few know that Ikebukuro is also a haven for anime, manga, and game fans. However, where Akihabara caters mainly to male otaku (those particularly enthusiastic about anime and manga), Ikebukuro caters mainly to the female otaku, such as the author herself. 熱狂的なアニメ、挫画ファンである筆者本城里

矎にずっお山手線沿いで最も奜きな街は池袋駅で す。倚くの人が玍埗するのは「アニメ、挫画ず蚀え ば秋葉原」ですが、池袋も負けず劣らず品揃えが あるず蚀うのはあたり知られおないようです。違いず しおは、秋葉原は䞻に男性の「オタク」向けの品々 が販売されおおり、池袋は筆者のような女性の「オ タク」の甚途を満たしおくれるのです。

TEXT: SATOMI HONJIYO 日本語: EMI FERRIE PHOTO: NATASHA VIK & SATOMI HONJIYO

71

What is the difference? one might ask. With both males and females interested in all types of anime and manga, one would think the neighborhoods are quite similar. However, the attractions available in the two cities are quite different. While Akihabara is famous for maid cafes, where (more often than not) male diners can go and be served by cute girls dressed as maids, Ikebukuro provides the lesser known, but equally popular, butler cafes. There, women are treated like royalty by beautiful men impeccably clad in tailcoats, serving highend dishes in a setting that almost appears to come straight from the Victorian Era. Most famous among Ikebukuro’s butler cafes is Swallowtail, the butlers of which are Ikebukuro-celebrities with their own entertainment group putting on musicals and more. Compared to its ‘brother’ city, Ikebukuro also has more shops selling cosplay items. In particular, the newly renovated store ACOS is four floors of a cosplayer’s dream-cometrue. Everything a fan would need to recreate their favorite character’s costumes is available, in rows upon rows of high quality wigs in a rainbow of colors, theater makeup, specialty props and shoes, amid other accessories commonly used in this performance art. Which makes sense, seeing as the majority of cosplayers are female. A less spoken-of attraction of Ikebukuro are the multiple stores that sell doujinshi,

fan-created comics. These comics come in a variety of forms, often featuring popular characters from mainstream anime and manga, but set in worlds and stories of the author’s own making. Two of the popular stores for these are K-BOOKS and MANDARAKE, both of which are set up similarly with shelves upon shelves of works, sectioned off by popular show titles, or even popular characters and couples. As doujinshi sold in Ikebukuro caters mainly to a female audience, the stories often feature beautiful boys in romantic relationships and risque situations -- which is why it’s considered one the city’s more hush-hush aspects! 「性別は異なっおも、 「オタク」は同じ物に興 味があっお、同じ物を求めるんじゃないの」 ず䞍思議に思うかもしれたせん。これは確か に事実でありながら、やはり男性ず女性ずでは 少しニヌズが違っお来るのです。䟋えば秋葉 原は可愛い女性スタッフが接客しおくれる 「メ むドカフェ」に行く男性が倚いですが、女性は 女性向けの「執事カフェ」  英語では「バトラヌ カフェ」 ず蚀う執事の栌奜をした男性スタッ フがノィクトリア時代の内装を意識した空間 で持お成しおくれるお店を奜む傟向がありた す。 こちらの執事カフェではハンサムな男性店 員が来店客の女性皀に男性客もいらっしゃ いたすがほずんどは女性ですを「お嬢様」 ず 呌び培底的に接客しおくれたす。

こちらの男性埓業員は各自ミュヌゞカ

ADDRESS BOOK

ルやバンド等に参加しおおり、池袋では いわばアむドルみたいな存圚なのです。 もう䞀぀の䟋を挙げるず、女性の方が

ANIMATE Toshima-ku, Higashi-Ikebukuro 1-20-7

「コスプレ」 コスチュヌムプレむの略 、 奜きなアニメや挫画のコスチュヌムを着

豊島区東池袋䞁目ヌ20ヌ7

る趣味をする人口が倚いからか、池袋

OPEN: 10AM-9PM

の方がそう蚀ったお店が倚いのです。 コ スプレのお店に売っおる商品は様々で、

ACOS Toshima-ku, Higashi-Ikebukuro 3-2-1

色ずりどりの高性胜りィッグ、特殊メむク

豊島区東池袋3䞁目ヌ20ヌ1

甚の化粧品、珍しい小道具や掋服など

OPEN: 11AM-8PM

があり、 コスプレマニアの倩囜ずでも蚀え るでしょう。筆者の䞀番のお勧めはリニ

K-BOOKS Toshima-ku, Higashi-Ikebukuro 3-2-1

ュヌアルオヌプンしお間もない階立お の「ACOS」 ず蚀うコスプレ専門店です。

豊島区東池袋3䞁目ヌ15ヌ14

䞀般の方々にあたり知られおいない池

OPEN: 11AM-8:30PM

袋のアトラクションずしおは「同人誌」 ず 蚀うものです。同人誌ず蚀うのは西掋で

MANDRAKE Toshima-ku, Higashi-Ikebukuro 3-15-2

は「ファンフィクション」 ず呌ばれおる物 であり、ポピュラヌなアニメや挫画のキ

豊島区東池袋3䞁目ヌ15ヌ2

OPEN: 12AM-8PM

ャラクタヌをファンの挫画家が蚭定やス トヌリヌを倉えお独自の䞖界芳の䞭で 描くず蚀うものです。秋葉原に売られお

SWALLOWTAIL CAFE Toshima-ku, Higashi-Ikebukuro 3-2-1

る同人誌は䞻に男性向けの物であり魅

豊島区東池袋3䞁目ヌ12ヌ12

力的な女性が䞻圹の堎合が倚いのに察

OPEN: 10:40AM-9PM

しお、池袋で販売されおる物の倚くは女 性向けなので䞻人公がハンサムな男性 な事が 倚いのです。少し内容が 際どい 䜜品が倚いず蚀う事もあり䞭々メむンス トリヌムでは流行らないようですが、䞖 の䞭より少し早く知るために池袋に足を 運ぶのも悪くはないでしょう。

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the ELECTRIC CITY 東京の゚レクトリックシティヌ

Most people who come to Tokyo have at least heard of Akihabara. For those who are interested in anime culture, computers, or gadgets, the district is a must-visit. There are stores that sell anime DVDs and merchandise, computer shops of all sizes, hobby shops, places to buy electronic components, and tools for building your own devices, and even a couple shops that deal exclusively in robots. Mixed into all of this are a number of large arcades, restaurants, and maid-themed cafes. To the uninitiated, it can be overwhelming. If you have the time however, Akihabara is an amazing place to explore.

東京に蚪れるほずんどの方は䞀床は「秋葉原」 ず

蚀う地名を聞いた事があるでしょう。特にアニメ、 コ ンピュヌタヌやパ゜コン郚品等に興味のある方は 必ず足を運んで頂きたい街です。店数はずんでも ない数でしお、 アニメDVDやその他のグッズ、皀な アむテムが倚く取り扱われおるコンピュヌタ郚品、 ロボット補䜜甚専門店など、実に色ずりどりでマニ アックなお店が密集しおいたす。 その䞭に倧きな商 店街や飲食店も入り混じっおおり、初心者には少 し入り蟛い空気をかもし出しおるずは蚀え、時間が あるのであればゆっくりこの秋葉原ず蚀う䞍思議 な街を散策しおみるのもいい経隓になるかず思い たす。

TEXT: David Hansche 日本語: EMI FERRIE PHOTO: David Hansche

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SOFMAP Sofmap is a common electronics chain in Japan, but their primary Akihabara store is seven floors of electronics, with each floor specializing in a specific type of product. One floor, for example, is nothing but cameras and accessories, while another will have all the parts you could ever need to build your own PC. Sofmap’s large selection and prices are comparable to the other major electronics chains in Japan, but when they have a sale you can get some great deals. Sofmap also has a smaller store nearby that specializes exclusively in PCs and PC parts. To get there, head out the Akihabara Electric Town exit toward the main street and take a right. Sofmap is a couple blocks down on the right.

゜フマップは党囜店舗以䞊を誇る倧手の家電量販店ですが、秋葉原にあるも

のは7階建おず蚀う倧型店舗です。階ごずにカメラやコンピュヌタヌ郚品等に分かれ おおり、非垞に芋やすい蚭蚈になっおおりたす。他の倧型量販店ず倀段蚭定に倧差 はございたせんが、セヌルを開催しおいる時はぐんずお買い埗になるのど芁チェック です。近くにはこの店より䞀回り小さいパ゜コンずパ゜コンパヌツ専門店の゜フマップ があり、自分でパ゜コンを補䜜するのに必芁な物が党お揃っおおりたす。 こちらのお 店に蟿り着くにはJR秋葉原駅の秋葉原電気街口を出おメむンストリヌトに向かっお 右に曲がりたす。䞊蚘の倧型店舗はそこから少し歩いた右偎に倧きくたたずんでい お、すぐに分かりたす。

TSUKUMO Tsukumo, known for its large, black building near Akihabara station, is the place to go for those who prefer to build their own computers. With six floors of pc’s and parts, Tsukumo has one of the best selections of computer parts in Tokyo. And while you may occasionally find better prices on some parts in the smaller independent stores, Tsukumo is consistently very reasonably priced. To find it, just walk two blocks past Sofmap JR秋葉原駅のすぐ近くにそびえ立぀倧きくお黒いビルがこちらのツクモです。 階

にわたりパ゜コンや郚品が売られおおり、 自分でパ゜コンを補䜜する方には持っお来 いのお店です。物によっおは個人でやっおいる小さいお店の方が安かったりはしたす が、 ツクモの品揃えず比范的安い倀段蚭定の䞡方が揃っおるのは珍しく、䞀店で買 い物を枈たせたい方には䞁床いいです。 ゜フマップから歩いお分もしない皋床の距 離で、倖芳ですぐにどこか分かるかず思いたす。

Trader 2 In Japan, DVDs and CDs can be very expensive,so used DVD/CD/Game shops are popular. One of the better shops in Akihabara is the DVD/CD Trader 2. They have a large selection of anime DVDs and games at reasonable prices. The best thing about them though his that they often carry older and obscure titles. They also put together collections of entire series. If you like anime or games, and you don’t have a lot of money, this is a place to check out. 日本ではDVD、CDやゲヌムの倀段が未だに䞭々高いため、䞭叀のお店は倧倉人気

です。秋葉原で䞭叀を買うなら品揃えず䟡栌の安さで蚀えばトレヌダヌが筆者の お勧めです。 このお店のお勧めポむントは叀い物、珍しい物も数倚く取り揃えおるずこ ろず、シリヌズ物を最初から最埌たでたずめお売っおいるず蚀う点です。 アニメやゲヌ ムが奜きだけど䜙り金銭的に䜙裕が無いず蚀う方には是非䞀床行っお頂きたいお 店の䞀぀です。

The Charm of THE CITY 東 京 の 䌝 çµ± 的 な チャヌ ム

Exit Nishi-Nippori station, turn the very first corner on your left and you’ll find a small road curving up a hill. It’s unassuming path, much like the neighborhood it leads to; Yanaka. Don’t worry too much about getting lost, that’s part of the neighborhood charm. It’s a calm and quiet area, filled with temples and shrines, and perhaps mainly known as the location of Yanaka Cemetery - which might surprise some as one of the most widely regarded cherry blossom viewing spots in Eastern Tokyo.

TEXT: NATASHA VIK PHOTO: NATASHA VIK

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Tucked in between JR Nippori and Nishi-Nippori station, Yanaka is one of city’s most charming neighbourhoods. Part of the larger Yanesen area, made up of Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi, Yanaka can easily be reached by foot from Ueno park. It’s also one of the few neighbourhoods in Tokyo that still retain a quaint shitamachi vibe - without falling into the trap of becoming an overdone tourist spot, like the nearby Asakusa area. Not to say that Yanaka is not a popular area, but it somehow remains one of Tokyo’s best kept secrets. Attracting a certain crowd with an affinity for handmade goods and homemade food, there’s a certain nostalgic vibe which, combined with the small ateliers and art galleries, creates a unique neighborhood. One of Yanaka’s most famous shops, Isetatsu, has since 1864 been one of the foremost shops for traditional Japanese paper - and remains one of the oldest shops in the city. Not far from it, in a converted sento, lies one of Tokyo’s most famous contemporary art galleries, SCAI the Bathhouse. Elsewhere, the narrow streets that curve through the hilly neighborhood are filled with smaller galleries which, even if not famous by name, are still worth spending time visiting. Often artists or gallery owners are there, and are more than willing to have a chat with visitors. Be sure to do so on an empty stomach as there’s no shortage of delicious foods and treats to be found. Right before you turn onto Yanaka ginza, the main shopping street, you’ll find the taiyaki shop TAICHI, whose taiyaki are a masterful combination of perfectly crispy wafer with plenty of azuki. At the end of the Yanaka Ginza shopping street, you’ll also find the infamous 10 yen manju shop where, yes, delicious traditional Japanese sweets are available for as little as 10 yen a piece! Wholeheartedly recommended for lovers of one of Japan’s most famous treats. A stone’s throw away is the Darjeeling, an authentic Indian curry restaurant not to be missed. Not only is the food wonderful, but the combination of a great meal with beautiful interior, along with the hospitality of the owner makes for a dining experience to remember. Take a moment while you wait for your meal to chat with the owner, who will excitedly tell you about Indian spices and history. There’s also a lovely little shop right off the main shopping street, well worth a visit, called himitsudo. Don’t let the name fool you -- himitsudo* is anything but a secret. The charming little shop is one of Tokyo’s most famous for shaved ice desserts, widely considered to some of the best kakigori in the city. The shop is open year round, with seasonal menus for summer and winter and a guaranteed line stretching around the corner on weekends.

*the shop§s name is a clever play on words - himitsu is japanese for secret, but can also mean iced honey

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COFFEE & THE CITY 東 京ずコ ヌ ヒ ヌ

There’s no shortage of coffee in the fashionable Shibuya and Harajuku districts and that’s not simply because there’s one of those mermaids on every corner. Rather, Tokyo is gaining increased recognition as one of the world’s most exciting cities for coffee enthusiasts, and Shibuhara is at the center of the revolution. Tucked away in the district’s small side streets are a number of distinguished coffee shops making names for themselves internationally and at home. Though just barely scratching the surface, we introduce you to four of our favorite shops on the Yamanote loop.

流行の最先端をいく枋谷、原宿゚リアではコヌヒ ヌに事欠くこずはありたせん。 それは、スタヌバック スが沢山あるからずいうだけではありたせん。東京 はコヌヒヌを愛する人々にずっお䞖界で最も゚キ サむティングな街の䞀぀だずいう認識が広たり぀぀ あり、 シブハラはその珟象の䞭心なのです。 この゚リアにいく぀もある小さな暪道に隠れおい るのは、囜内倖に名を知られたコヌヒヌショップ の数々です。そのほんの䞀郚分に觊れるだけです が、 ここでは私達のお気に入りの店を぀玹介した す。

TEXT: NATASHA VIK & JUNKO YOSHIMARU 日本語: AKIRA OKUBO & Junko Yoshimaru

PHOTO: NATASHA VIK & JUNKO YOSHIMARU

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Streamer Coffee Company Shibuya-ku, Shibuya 1-20-28

Coffee Company is more than just a coffee Sshop.treamer It’s an institution, and as one would expect, the

staff treat their craft with utmost dedication. Opened in Shibuya in 2010, the cafe is widely regarded for serving some of the best cafe latte in the city. Owner Hiroshi OPEN: 8AM-7PM (M~F/月〜金) Sawada is a world champion free pour latte artist, and 12AM-6PM (S~S/䌑日) the company’s three-leaf rosetta logo is based on Sawada’s latte art. Streamer’s menu puts taste at the center, as well aTake Out as the coffee experience. As such only some of their drinks are available for take out, and only a limited number of their trademark military latte are poured each day. (They also have a strict, no photographing the baristas at work-policy.) If you’re lucky, you might be served a cup by Sawada himself. 枋谷区枋谷䞁目ヌヌ

ストリヌマヌコヌヒヌカンパニヌはコヌヒヌショップ以䞊のコヌヒヌショップです。 ずい

うのも、バリスタは最高レベルのラテアヌト、 コヌヒヌを提䟛したす。 幎に枋谷にオヌプン しお、珟圚ではこの街でベストのラテを提䟛するカフェの぀ずしお広く知られおいたす。オヌナヌ の柀田掋史はフリヌポア・ラテアヌトの 䞖界チャンピオンであり、䌚瀟の䞉぀葉の ロれッタロゎ は柀田のラテアヌトにもずづいお䜜られたした。 メニュヌはラテアヌトはもちろんですが、 コヌヒヌ での経隓ず䞀緒で味も重芁芖しおいたす。いく぀かのドリンクはテむクアりトも可胜で、 このカフェ のトレヌドマヌクでもあるミリタリヌラテは毎日限られた数量限定で提䟛しおいたす。 このカフェ ではバリスタ達の写真を取るこずを犁止しおいたす。 もしラッキヌなら䞖界チャンピオンの柀田 掋史自身に䜜っおもらえるこずもありたす。

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In Tokyo’s expanding coffee landscape, what LATTEST sets Ura-Omotesando shop LATTEST apart is in part it’s all-female staff. Which is not to say you should come Shibuya-ku, Jingumae 3-5-2 here expecting pink interior and animal shaped latte art. 枋谷区神宮前3䞁目ヌ5ヌ At first glance, LATTEST’s white concrete walls and industrial sensibilities strikingly reminiscent of Streamer OPEN: 10AM-7PM (T~F/火〜金) Coffee Company. It’s no coincidence either; the shop’s 12AM-7PM (S~S/䌑日) concept was over seen by Streamer owner Sawada. Still, aTake Out LATTEST maintains its own personality, with a quiet location on a side-street off of the bustling Omotesando avenue, and a distinct menu. Their signature drink (fittingly also named Lattest), is a shot glass of cold milk topped with espresso, creating an iced drink with a punch of flavor. For customers with a sweet tooth but still craving a dose of caffeine, the Triple Shot Mocha is the perfect choice.

東京で増え続けるコヌヒヌ店、 カフェの䞭で、裏衚参道のLATTESTラテスト を際立

たせおいるポむントの䞀぀は、埓業員がすべお女性だずいうこずです。かずいっお、 この店に来る人 はピンクの内装や動物の圢をしたラテアヌトを期埅しなければいけないずいうわけではありたせ ん。LATTESTの癜いコンクリヌトの壁ず工業的雰囲気はたさにストリヌマヌコヌヒヌカンパニヌ を圷圿ずさせたす。 これは偶然ではなく、ストリヌマヌのオヌナヌの柀田氏がこの店のコンセプト を監督したからなのです。 それでも、LATTESTは、掻気あふれた衚参道通りのわき道にある、 そ の静かなロケヌションず、独特なメニュヌにより、 その独自の個性を保っおいたす。オリゞナルドリ ンク お䌌合いなこずにこれもLattestず名づけられおいたすはショットグラスに冷たいミルクを いれ、゚スプレッ゜を泚いだもので、銙りの効いた氷入り飲料です。甘い飲み物が奜みだけれど も、 カフェむンの䞀服が欲しい人には、 トリプルショットモカが最高のチョむスでしょう。

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A Good Neighbor is a coffee kiosk on the corner of Ba esmall side street in Sendagaya. Although it is a little

Be A Good Neighbor

difficult to find, the warm atmosphere emitted from Shibuya-ku, Shibuya 1-20-28 this little place is more than expected from its size. 枋谷区枋谷䞁目ヌヌ With a friendly barista working behind the tall counter, Neighbour offers both your standard fare of coffee, OPEN: 8:30AM-6PM (M~F/月〜金) brewed from quality single-origin beans. There’s also 11:30PM-5PM (S~S/䌑日) the shops unique offering, Frozen Coffee. A great treat for coffee lovers on hot summer days, it’s reminiscent of aTake Out a slushy, saturated with coffee. A very quaint little kiosk, it offers a great place for a quick stop to get your morning caffeine pick-me-up. You couldn’t ask for a better neighbor.

千駄ヶ谷にある小さなカフェ、Be A Good Neighbor。枩かいオヌラを醞し出しおい

るこのカフェは街の隙間に隠れおいたす。モダンな感じのむンテリアで、手曞きのような看板や文 字を䜿っおお店の䞭を食っおいるのは芪近感を沞かせるような雰囲気があっお、 ずにかく優しい です。店䞭にはスタンディングのカりンタヌがあり、雚が降っおいる日や、暑い倏の日にはそこで 少し䌑みながら過ごせたす。お店の前に眮いおある黒いベンチの䞊でコヌヒヌを飲みながら䞀 䌑みもできたす。この店にはちょっず珍しいメニュヌもございたす。 フロヌズンコヌヒヌです。名前 の通り、凍っおいるコヌヒヌの飲み物でございたす。冷たくお、氷っぜい感觊で、 コヌヒヌの味が するこの飲み物は倏にぎったりです。小さなカフェですけど、お隣さんずしおは最高だずは思いた せんか。

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Little Nap Coffee Stand

Despite it’s easy-to-miss location, Little Nap Coffee Stand isn’t trying to stay hidden. On a small, curving street near the west entrance of Yoyogi park, it’s perhaps 枋谷区代々朚5䞁目ヌ65ヌ4 one of Tokyo’s best known coffee shops, both locally and internationally. The charming exterior matches it’s OPEN: 9AM-7PM (T~S/火〜日) location in the residential Tomigaya area, and on sunCLOSED: Monday / 月曜 ny days, customers spill out of the small shop and enjoy their coffee on the playground across from the shop. The aTake Out menu has staple drinks, and though the location might be a detour for most, the coffee is worth it. Make a day of it by opting for take-out, and heading for a stroll or picnic in the park Shibuya-ku, Yoyogi 5-65-4

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TEAM ずうこうし ゃ

NATASHA VIK, EDITOR-AT-LARGE Oslo-born, Tokyo-based, Natasha is an enthusiastic traveller, photographer, blogger and parttime barista.

David Hansche

SATOMI HONJIYO

Dave is an electronics technician turned writer who hails from Wisconsin in the U.S. He enjoys music, reading, and dabbles in web design.

Born in Japan and raised in California, Satomi enjoys character study, performance art, drawing, and painting.

EMI FERRIE

ANDREW SMITH

Born to a Japanese mother and American father, Emi was raised in Yokohama, Japan. She graduated international high school, briefly studying Spanish in Madrid and attending UH Manoa in Hawaii.

Writer, photographer, musician, and outdoors enthusiast; to Andrew, here is nothing quite like the feeling of hiking to the top of a mountain or finding a new trail, and sharing that experience.

RiCHARD BRAHY

Yosuke nakata

Hailing from beautiful Washington State, USA. Richard is an outdoor enthusiast who also runs a fishing blog of his piscatorial pursuits in Japan.

Born in Aichi prefecture, Yosuke has studied abroad in Canada and California, and enjoys playing soccer, traveling, eating and drinking.

AKIRA 0KUBO

JUNKO YOSHIMARU

Born and raised in Tokyo, Akira obtained a bachelor’s degree in literature in 2009, and is currently pursuing a second degree in communications.

Vlogger, blogger, writer, student, musician, photographer, daughter and sister, Junko enjoys riding her bike through the streets of Tokyo and sharing her findings with the world.

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