nagazasshi
짜0
Hidden Christians The
of
Nagasaki
Kyudo | Huis Ten Bosch | Kazuo Ishiguro | Kumamoto
nagazasshi Volume 7 Issue 4 January/February 2015
Editor-in-chief Andrew Massey
Editors
Rosie Fordham Katy Squicciarini
Assistant Editor Niel Thompson
Copy Editor Doug Bonham
Treasurer Karl Po
Layout and Design Laurel Williams
Contributors Doug Bonham Christina Samurkas Rosie Fordham Katy Squicciarini Amy Gifford Stuart Webster Karl Po Priscilla Westra Niel Thompson Laurel Williams
Founders
Andrew Morris Matthew Nelson www.nagazasshi.com Cover photo: Oura Catholic Church, Nagasaki By Priscilla Westra
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’ve always found winter to be a contemplative season. Those sedentary moments spent shivering under sweaters can provide plenty of time for introspection. While New Year’s resolutions are a good way to look forward, we should also make time to reflect. After all, knowing where to go is impossible without remembering where you’ve been. To jog our collective memory, this issue will take a look at Nagasaki’s past and focus on its history of foreign influence. Our feature is on Hidden Christians (p. 10), Nagasaki Notables is on a locally born British author (p. 15), and there’s even an article on the beloved European theme park, Huis Ten Bosch (p. 13). Nagasaki is an international city. That statement seems obvious. The impact that traders and missionaries have had on the local culture can be seen everywhere, and events like the Lantern Festival really illuminate that fact. Chinatown, Dejima, and the numerous churches here are testaments to that cultural legacy. As an expat, I can walk through Nagasaki and not be met with public bewilderment, suspicion, or fear, because most people here are used to seeing foreigners around. It’s a familiarity that is easily forgotten about, and one I’m constantly reminding myself to be thankful for. We must also remember to be thankful for all those who help make to this magazine a reality. Your support means the world to us. Thank you. Happy reading!
Andrew Massey, Editor-in-chief
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Contents Events
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My Two Yen
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Japanese Martial Arts: Kyudo
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Japan’s Hidden Christians
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The Charming Contradictions of Huis Ten Bosch
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Nagasaki Notables: Kazuo Ishiguro
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Weekends with Karl
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Kanji of the Month
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Check out some staff recs in drama and anime
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Our series concludes with its sixth installment
The long, fascinating history of Christianity in Nagasaki
Explore how foreign and Japanese culture blend in HTB
Learn about this Nagasaki-born British author
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Our new travel series sets off in Kumamoto
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Photo credits (counter-clockwise from top): Kyudo targets Laurel Williams; Kazuo Ishiguro flickr.com/tulsalibrary; An illuminated windmill at Huis Ten Bosch Doug Bonham; Horse croquettes from Kumamoto Karl Po
Event of the Month
Nagasaki Lantern Festival
January 31st – February 14th Throughout Nagasaki City People come from all over the country to see this quintessential Nagasaki festival. The first two weeks in February are filled with food, fun, and wonderfully strange displays and stage performances. See everything from Chinese acrobatics and lion dancing to candlelit pig heads. The lanterns are pretty neat, too. This bright and colorful celebration of the history of foreign culture in Japan is not one to be missed!
Events Asaichi Zenzai-kai January 10th, Sasebo The Asaichi morning market in the Yorozucho municipal parking lot is an everyday event, but every year on January 10th, they dish out 2,000 portions of sake and zenzai, which consists mainly
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of boiled down azuki beans. It’s free too! Starts bright and early at 6am! Annual Hetomato Festival January 16th – Goto (Sakiyama) This is easily one of Nagasaki’s most memorable festivals. At Hetomato, January/February 2015 | nagazasshi
you’ll find a variety of enigmatic events, including but not limited to: sumo, a muddy tug-of-war, kimono-garbed streetbadminton, and women being put in a giant shoe that is then tossed up into the air. Not only that, all male participants must don the ultra-traditional fundoshi loincloth. A cheeky good time, to be sure. Annual Nomozaki Narcissus Festival Mid January – Early February Suisen Satokoen, Nagasaki City If you head to the Nagasaki seaside park around mid January, you can experience the splendor of 10 million daffodils in full bloom as you take in the beautiful view of the oceans surrounding Nomozaki and the famous Gunkanjima. Hikari-no-Hanabouro Throughout February, Unzen During February, the streets and sidewalk trees of this charming onsen town are decorated with lights that mimic the hoarfrost that would form in days past. There are fireworks displays held every Saturday night from 9:30pm to add to the Unzen winter magic.
photo Doug Bonham
Kawachi-Touge Pass field burning First Sunday of February, Hirado Whether you’re feeling a little chilly or wanting to stoke your inner pyromaniac, this event should have something to offer you. Every year, about 30 hectares of the largest grass fields in Saikai National Park
are set ablaze, offering a sight that, if not heart-warming, is at least hand-warming. If you’ve ever just wanted to see the world burn, this could be up your alley. Konaki Crybaby Sumo February 3rd, Hirado Hirado may be well known for its kujira, but wailing of a different nature can be seen (and heard) in early February. The annual Konaki-zumo festival pits two infant-wielding sumo wrestlers against one another. The first baby to cry is declared the winner. If you haven’t visited Hirado before, this adorable tournament is a great excuse to do so. Goto Camellia Festival From mid February, Goto City Camellias are in bloom on Goto; their sweet scents dance redolent on the winds. Goto’s camellias, and especially its camellia oil, are renowned for their world-class quality and can be found in a number of high-end cosmetic products. Get yours straight from the source this February! 99 Island Oyster Festivals Weekends/Holidays in February Get out of your shell and hit the road. Destination: Oyster city. Tuck in for some smoky, savory seafood goodness all month long at the Saikai Pearl Sea Resort. These could quite possibly be the freshest oysters you will ever encounter.
Know of an upcoming event you’d like us to feature? Let us know at: Nagazasshi.submissions@gmail.com!
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My Two Yen... Drama Katy here! Following in the vein of foreign influences, why not check out the first Japanese drama that actually stars a foreign actress! The Japanese television drama scene is a thriving community that has catapulted many a star to fame. Without fail, the most looked-forward-to drama each year is the NHK asadora which airs every morning over a span of six months. This is particularly true of the most recent one, Massan, which covers the true story of the first Japanese whiskey producer and his marriage to a Scottish woman in the early 20th century. The normally ethnically homogenous Japanese drama-verse was shocked by the casting of American actress Charlotte
Kate Fox, whose Japanese skill and cultural knowledge is just as lacking as those of the character she plays. But the drama has so far been well received, and its layered attention to the difficulties of international and interracial marriage in Japan is complex and riveting. Massan is scheduled to have 150 episodes, has been airing every morning since September 29th, and will run until March 28th on NHK. If you’re interested, you should definitely check it out! Image Credits: Massan poster NHK 8 www.nhk.or.jp/massan
Anime Niel here with another anime recommendation. This month I’ll be talking about a show set in Nagasaki’s very own Goto islands: Barakamon (ばらかもん). Handa is a talented young calligrapher. During an exhibition, an old curator criticizes Handa’s work and receives a punch to the face in response. Because of this, his father forces him to move from Tokyo to the small island of Goto. Handa’s conflicts in the show come from having to adjust to country living. At first things are very dif-
ficult for him but he soon befriends Naru, a seven year old girl, who uses his house as a secret base. Soon the two of them have adventures with the other colorful characters that populate the town. These experiences give Handa valuable life lessons that improve him as a person and bring Handa closer to creating his own original style of calligraphy. If you’re in the mood for a wacky yet sincere show about a man from the city learning to live in and love the country, then Barakamon may just be for you. Image Credits: Barakamon poster Satsuki Yoshino and Kinema Citrus Co., Ltd 8 www.barakamon.jp
Japanese Martial Arts:
photos courtesy of Laurel Williams
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ōikai,” my sensei growls with certainty. “One more time.”
Kyudo
Laurel Williams explains the history and practice of the ancient art of kyudo. achieving a clear mind. By mastering these aspects of kyudo, hitting the target should prove inevitable.
I grab my last two arrows, glancing at the dojo’s sole clock as I go, before starting the eight steps of shooting (hassetsu) again. I suspect another “mōikai” is in my immediate future before practice ends at 10. I am not disappointed.
Hitting the target is seen as the culmination of a kyudojin’s, or a practitioner of modern kyudo’s, attempt to achieve Shin Zen Bi (真善美). Shin Zen Bi, Truth, Goodness, and Beauty, is kyudo’s philosophy, Shin Zen Bi, Truth, I have been practicone that kyudojin Goodness, and Beauty, strive for both in the ing kyudo (弓道), or “The Way of the Bow,” is kyudo’s philosophy kyudojo, and in life. since 2012. When This philosophy, like asked to explain kyudo to folks back kyudo itself, is relatively new in Japan’s home, who understand archery through long history of archery. Western preconceptions like deer hunting or The Hunger Games, I often describe it as It was during the pre-historical Yayoi pethe yoga of Japanese martial arts. riod that yumi (long bows) were first seen in Japan. The Jomon people, Japan’s earliSimilar to yoga, emphasis is placed on est inhabitants, used them for hunting. good form, measured breathing, and From there, archery became a common
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became an art, a means for practitioners to better their minds and bodies. From kyujutsu, kyudo was born. The International Kyudo Federation notes that, today, kyudo can be found in over 40 countries. While different branches of kyudo practice exist, the clothes worn and equipment used are relatively uniform. Most practitioners don a white keikogi, a black hakama (available in trouser or skirt), an obi, and white tabi socks. The keikogi is sometimes exchanged for a kimono for special events and exams. feature of the royal courts and the privileged class, reserved for entertainment, ceremonies, and war. Archery was refined into kyujutsu (弓術), “The Art of Archery,” thanks to the efforts and needs of the samurai class in feudal Japan. In addition, a number of schools (ryu) specializing in various kyujutsu were created. Of these, the teachings of Heki Danjo Masatsugu proved especially influential.
The basic equipment includes the yumi, tsuru (string), a right-handed yugake (glove), a cloth shitagake (underglove), and ya (arrows). The yugake may be three, four, or five-fingered depending on the style of shooting. Women may opt to use a muneate (chest plate) to protect themselves from being hit by the tsuru.
Heki (1443-1502) was a renowned archer who founded the Heki Ryu of kyujutsu, a school that maintains branches to this day. He is considered to have solidified the practices and traditions of kyujutsu, which became the basis of kyudo. The yumi was rendered obsolete after firearms, initially brought to Japan in 1543, were discovered to be more effective in battle. From this point on, kyujutsu truly
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Archery was refined into kyujutsu (弓術), “The Art of Archery,” thanks to the efforts and needs of the samurai class in feudal Japan
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For those interested in kyudo, it isn’t hard to find a local dojo in Nagasaki. Some even offer classes for a fee. Classes are typically 1 – 2 times a week and span a few months. For others, you might be lucky enough to be taken in by a dojo as several friends and I were. If you go this route, however, be prepared for the long haul. For months, I practiced the hassetsu, going through the motions over and over before graduating to a rubber band rope in lieu of a bow. These practices were sometimes tiresome, but after months of training, there came a moment when I finally saw one of my arrows sail straight from my bow into the target. As my ears were rewarded with that clear “pop” of my arrow piercing the target, I heard one of my sensei behind me congratulate me: “Good-o.” Then, “Mōikai.” n
This concludes our Japanese Martial Arts series. Thanks for reading!
Christina Samurkas gives us a brief look into the history and legacy of Christianity in Japan.
Japan’s
Hidden
T
ake a stroll around downtown Nagasaki and you might spot something remarkably uncommon in Japan: churches. Less than 1% of the Japanese population is Christian and yet Nagasaki prefecture is awash, relatively speaking, not only in churches, but also churchgoers. These churches range from Urakami Cathedral, once the largest church in all of East Asia, to the tiny, remote Nankoshi Church. Though dramatically varied, they all highlight the fervent and dedicated efforts of the faithful to protect their beliefs. Many of the churches (or their reconstructions) are historic and no longer hold mass or service, but there are many which still serve congregations,
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Christians
not only in Nagasaki, but also in Omura, Sasebo, and Hirado. Where did these churches come from? What is the story of the people they once served? The history of Christianity in Japan finds its birthplace in the Nagasaki port circa the second half of the 16th century. Francis Xavier, a Portuguese Catholic, came to Japan with the intention of starting a church. He struggled initially. There was a significant number of Indian Christians aboard the ship and given the fact that Goa, India was the trading base city of the Portuguese, the locals were under the impression that Christianity was from India. Xavier persevered, however, and his January/February 2015 | nagazasshi
photo Laurel Williams
effort was rewarded with a sizeable folgawa shogunate dynasty, the tides turned lowing. The missionaries encouraged new against the Christians, who were seen as Japanese Christians to take on ‘Christian potential threats to the government, the names’ and adopt Western culture, a state-supported religions of Shintoism legacy that survived and and Buddhism, and to the has gone on to influence established social order. The history of Nagasaki’s modern day The efforts to encourage Christianity in Japan Westernization amongst mix of East and West. finds its birthplace in converts raised suspicions When Xavier started that these new Christians the Nagasaki port his mission in 1549, were actually foreign the government of Oda agents. It wasn’t long Nobunaga supported both his conversion before the hand of the government turned efforts and that of the Jesuits in what is into a fist. now Kagoshima Prefecture. With the regime change from Nobunaga to Toyotomi Under the shogunate, Catholic Christians Hideyoshi and eventually to the Tokuwere actively persecuted and many were
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killed. The most famous were the 26 Martyrs of Japan, who were tortured and crucified outside Nagasaki in 1597. Although the repressions waned slightly during the rule of Tokugawa Ieyasu, who was interested in continuing trade with the Portuguese, a series of persecutions and public martyrdoms continued throughout the early 17th century. After the end of the Shimabara Rebellion, many Christians were forced to publically renounce their faith.
being confiscated. Many worshipped in secret rooms in their homes, and after the government expelled the Catholic clergy in the 17th century, congregations became dependent on community leaders to carry out services. While the initial fervour to hunt down the remaining Christians fell off considerably over the centuries, the threat of persecution was still alive well into the 19th century. In 1868 there was the “Crushing of Gotō”, when 200 Christians were imprisoned in a 12 tatami-mat room (approximately 10 m2). Unable to move, sit, or lie down for eight months, a total of 42 members died within that period. It was another five years before the Meiji government banned Christian persecution altogether. Following this assurance of religious freedom, some 30,000 Christians revealed themselves, not only in Nagasaki but throughout t all of Japan.
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ra
ph
This mission to purge the remaining ‘hidden’ Christians was one origin of the Nagasaki Kunchi festival. What started as a harvest festival became a shrine festival when Suwa Shrine was founded in 1642. The shrine building was sponsored directly by the Tokugawa government, which felt the need to fill the religious and cultural vacuum left by the removal of the Christians, and encouraged the building of many ot s oP riscilla We new shrines and temples. During the Okunchi festival, a new custom of ‘garden Today, the Hidden Christians are comshowing’ (庭見せ) forced local residents to memorated by the unique churches open their homes to public scrutiny so ofleft behind as memorials to their faith, ficials could check for signs of non-Shinto dedication, and tenacity. Though gone, or Buddhist religious activity. their spirit lives on in their successors, the openly worshipping members of the JapaTo protect itself, the Japanese Catholic nese Christian community. Their legacy church went underground for the duracan be seen not only in Nagasaki, but also tion of the Edo Period, and took numerous in other areas of Kyushu, in major urban precautions to avoid detection. Figurines centers like Tokyo and Osaka, and on a of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary tile at Himeji Castle. During the castle’s were modified to resemble the Buddha construction, the western gate was even or bodhisattvas, prayers were adapted to adorned with the crest of the Kuroda fammimic Buddhist chants, and the Bible was ily – a single Greek cross. n transmitted orally to avoid written copies
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photo Stuart Webster
The Charming Contradictions of Huis Ten Bosch Katy Squicciarini talks about the inaccurate but fantastic Japanese interpretation of foreign culture in the Huis Ten Bosch amusement park.
the perfect place to experience firsthand how foreign and Japanese culture can blend in the most delightfully bizarre way.
ost of this edition of the Nagazasshi has been devoted to foreign influences on Nagasaki and Japan in general. However, as any expat can attest, sometimes foreign cultures can be misinterpreted and go wrong. Huis Ten Bosch is a beautiful example of this.
Though styled as a reproduction of an old Dutch town, Huis Ten Bosch is a contradiction from the moment you arrive. Its name can be translated into “House in the Forest” in English, yet when you arrive, a forest is the last thing noticeable. Instead, loud music blares at you from multiple different speakers — a mixture of typical theme-park songs and other “epic” movie soundtracks like Spiderman and even Edward Scissorhands.
If you live in Nagasaki, then you have probably heard of Huis Ten Bosch. Located a few stations away from Sasebo on the JR Sasebo Line, Huis Ten Bosch is
Two clocks grace the towers of the stately brick buildings that greet you when you walk into the park, both of which are stuck at different times. One of my wiser
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colleagues suggested it represented the time differences between Japan and the Netherlands. But upon closer examination, neither of the clocks worked whatsoever, ruling out that serendipitous possibility. The scenery is, admittedly, stunning. However, the contradictions within the park continue the further you go in. For example, you have two options when walking through the park. One is to take a right towards the bouken, or adventure course, which involves a zip line, rock climbing, and even a massive animatronic dinosaur that roars at you as you walk by. The other option is to go left down a beautiful, tulip-lined path adorned with pristine, Dutch-style wooden windmills. Along this road, you can stop at the cheese shop where authentic Dutch clothing, including the typical pointed wooden shoes, is available to try on. If you’re not interested in this, you can always take a picture with the terrifyingly realistic wooden Dutch mannequins dotted throughout the store.
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A variety of restaurants are placed throughout the theme park, almost all of which are delicious. Korean food, frozen yogurt, cafes, hamburger restaurants, even sausage shops litter the brick streets. However, most of this foreignstyled food has very Japanese-style traits. Pinocchio, the Italian restaurant, offers a wide variety of pizzas which include, a personal favorite, the bacon and potato pizza. Rumors abound that there is even an elusive pancake curry restaurant hidden away somewhere in the park. One of my favorite experiences at Huis Ten Bosch again shows this contradicting balance of Japanese interpretations of the foreign. During the theme park’s month-long ‘Oktoberfest’ celebration, my friends and I were greeted upon entering with three Guinness beers (Irish) and churros (Spanish/French) by lederhosen-clad men (Austrian) who were singing salsa and tango music (South American) with accordions (German). It is moments like this that make the theme park so endearing. While it may not be as authentically Dutch as it likes to advertise itself, Huis Ten Bosch is a delightfully fun, unique experience for anyone with a sense of humor. It has good food, fun rides, scary haunted houses, beautiful scenery, and a variety of other attractions that can entertain you for hours. While Japan doesn’t always get all of its foreign stereotypes right, the end result is still incredibly fun for all who choose to come here. n January/February 2015 | nagazasshi
photo Doug Bonham
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Huis Ten Bosch is the perfect place to experience firsthand how foreign and Japanese culture can blend in the most delightfully bizarre way
saki}
{Naga
{Notables}
} o u z a {K
{ISHIGURO}
Rosie Fordham gives us a brief look into the life of internationally renowned author, Kazuo Ishiguro.
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photo flickr.com/ginnerobot
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t seems appropriate that in a preIshiguro’s family moved to Britain in 1960 fecture as internationally focused as so that his father could take a university Nagasaki, one of its most celebrated research position. Though the family writers is a product of not one, but two cul- planned to return to Japan, they eventutures. Kazuo Ishiguro is the author of six ally chose to stay in the UK. Ishiguro besuccessful novels, inlieves that his unique cluding Never Let Me family situation Ishiguro believes Go and The Remains strongly influenced that his unique family of the Day. He has the way he views situation strongly inwon or been shorthimself and the world, listed for some of the and it shaped his writfluenced the way he most coveted literary ing accordingly. views himself and the awards in the Englishworld, and it shaped speaking world, and Ishiguro has written was awarded an Order his writing accordingly works set both in of the British Empire Japan and in Britain. (OBE) in 1995. Born in Nagasaki City in His first two novels, A Pale View of Hills, 1954, Ishiguro has not lived in Japan since which deals with the aftermath of the he was five years old, making Ishiguro a Nagasaki bombing, and An Artist of the truly international author whose style Floating World, are set in post war Japan. can’t be confined to just one place. His later novels, particularly The Remains of the Day, are predominantly set in Europe.
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Ishiguro’s novels often deal with themes of emotional repression, and feature characters who attempt to hide their pasts through obscure language
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Rather than focusing on the geographical location, Ishiguro’s novels often deal with themes of emotional repression, and feature characters who attempt to hide their pasts through obscure language. He told The New York Times that he sees the ‘’tendency to keep a calm surface, [and] the tendency toward understatement of feeling and emotion” to be something that both Japanese and British culture have in common. However, Ishiguro doesn’t feel comfortable calling his work, or himself, a certain percentage British or a certain percentage Japanese. In an interview with BOMB Magazine, he says that, “people are not two-thirds one thing and the remainder something else. Temperament, personality, or outlook don’t divide quite like that…You end up a funny homogeneous mixture.” In fact, Ishiguro stresses that his work has neither a British nor Japanese focus, but an international one. In his statement for the British Council, he says, “I am a writer who wishes to write international novels,” he says. “What is an ‘international’ novel? I believe it to be one, quite simply, that contains a vision of life that is of im-
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portance to people of varied backgrounds around the world.” Ishiguro certainly seems to have succeeded in this goal, as his work resonates with both western readers and those in his birth country. Haruki Murakami, a writer with an equally strong international reputation, tells The Guardian that Ishiguro’s fiction has “a particular kind of sincere and tender quality… which happens to be familiar and natural to [Japanese people]” but that his writing transcends national origin. Murakami goes on to say that within Ishiguro’s novels “the place could be anywhere, the character could be anybody and the time could be any time.” With his ability to cross borders through his fiction, Ishiguro is a writer that not only Nagasaki, but the world, can proudly claim as their own. n
Weekends with
Karl
Meet Karl Po, our treasurer and resident wayfarer. In our new series, Karl offers some travel advice on making the most out of a holiday weekend. Karl’s Itinerary: Legend: b Bus | > Train | Z Stay | N Attraction | " Misc. Potential Long Weekends: Jan. 9 - 11, July 18 - 20, Sept. 19 - 23 (5 days), Oct. 10 - 12, Nov. 21 - 23
Projected Travel Costs: For a three day weekend: ~20,000 yen + food and spending money
Saturday
Sunday
b Nagasaki Station g Kumamoto Stn.
> Aso Station g Kumamoto Stn.
07:40~11:06 (3,700 yen)
> Kumamoto Station g Aso Station 11:38~12:47 (1,110 yen) Special Rapid Odan 4
Z Asobi-Gokoro (2,000 yen/night) 8 http://www.aso.ne.jp/asobi-gokoro/ index.english.html
N Mt. Aso crater/surroundings
(ropeway to the crater 1,200 yen)
" Rental car (2,500 yen/12 hours) OR b Bus 30-40 mins ride (650 yen) nagazasshi | January/February 2015
09:57~11:09 (1,110 yen) Special Rapid Odan 1
Z Nakashiyama Hostel (2,800 yen/night) 8 http://nakashimaya.ikidane.com/ eng.html
N Kumamoto Castle (500 yen) Suizenji Gardens (500 yen)
Monday
b Kumamoto Station g Nagasaki Stn. (last bus at 18:00)
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H
ey folks! Kumamoto is a great place to visit for a three-day weekend. Easy and relatively cheap to get to by train and bus, with many decently priced accommodations, it’s perfect for a short trip away from home! You may be familiar with it for the famous Kumamon character, but this prefecture has far more to offer when sightseeing. With the magnificent Kumamoto Castle, bucolic Mount Aso and beautiful Suizenji Gardens, there’s something to interest all travelers. If you love delicacies, then definitely don’t miss out on the local specialty – horse croquettes, available at Aso Shrine. Kumamoto-style “garlic ramen” is also not to be missed; it uses a tonkotsu base and adds charred garlic oil to create ramen with a delicious, silky black finish, which is utterly satisfying.
“Japanese” feel of the prefecture, with its quintessential rice paddies and open fields.
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Photo credits & information: Page 17 (clockwise): Aso Shrine entrance, Kumamoto ramen, and Kumamoto Castle Karl Po Page 18 (top): Mount Aso Karl Po
Whether you choose to bus around the prefecture or rent a car, Kumamoto offers a huge variety of cultural, historical, and natural sights. My personal favorite part of my three-day trip was just exploring the nature and sheer
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