HALLOWEEN AT HUIS TEN BOSCH ● CREEPING AROUND THE KEN ● NAGASAKI MUSEUMS ● A DAY OUT IN SAIKAI ● KYŪDŌ
nagazasshi VOLUME 11, ISSUE 2
SEP/OCT 2018
Hello everyone! This is Yeti, taking over from Will as your new editor-in-chief! I’m incredibly excited as we continue to celebrate our 10th year of the Nagazasshi, and continue to explore all the things that this amazing prefecture has to offer. In this issue, we bring you everything mysterious and spooky in Nagasaki! If you’re looking to celebrate Halloween, grab your costume and head on over to Huis Ten Bosch (pg 4), where they pull out all the stops and turn the Dutch theme park into a Halloween wonderland during the months of September and October. If you’ve ever wanted to feel as though you’re in a scary movie, you’re in luck! Get a spine-chilling experience as we take you to some of the spookiest looking areas around the prefecture (pg 6). Not a Halloween fan? No problem. For a more educational and artful experience, check out some of Nagasaki’s museums (pg 8). Next, join us for a stroll on the west coast of Omura Bay for a day out in Saikai (pg 10)! Best known for Bio Park and Saikai Bridge, this area has several other hidden gems that you should take the time to explore. Finally, if you’re looking for a unique way to get in shape this fall, we delve into Japanese archery, known as kyūdō. Happy reading everyone! Yeti Mallavi Editor-in-Chief
CONTENTS 4 WALKING IN A SPOOKY WONDERLAND Celebrate Halloween with a Dutch twist at Huis Ten Bosch
6 CREEPING AROUND THE KEN
Explore Nagasaki's creepiest areas
8 NAGASAKI MUSEUMS
Spend a day out experiencing art, history and culture
10 A DAY OUT IN SAIKAI
Get out and explore the west side of Omura bay
- 12 KYUDO - THE WAY OF THE BOW
Learn about traditional Japanese archery
14 NIHONGO ON THE GO
DIRECTOR: Dominic Balasuriya ASSISTANT DIRECTOR: Will Tiley EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Yeti Mallavi EDITORS: Andrew Haddow, Cassandra Fegert COPY EDITOR: Yeti Mallavi DESIGNER: Evan Hayden SOCIAL MEDIA: Emmanuel Feliciano CONTRIBUTORS: Dan Cohen, Evan Hayden, Cassandra Fegert, Yeti Mallavi, Will Morgan, Marc Mundy, Will Tiley, Philip Walker FOUNDERS: Andrew Morris, Matthew Nelson COVER PHOTO: Evan Hayden INSIDE-COVER PHOTO: Evan Hayden DON'T FORGET TO CHECK OUT UPCOMING EVENTS!
8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/events 8 facebook.com/VisitNagasaki/
LET'S FACE IT, THE WORD 'HALLOWEEN' IS ALWAYS FOLLOWED BY THE WORD 'PARTY'. WHILE MOST TOWNS WILL USUALLY HAVE THEIR OWN EVENTS AND PARTIES, HALLOWEEN FANS FROM ALL OVER THE PREFECTURE ARE INVARIABLY DRAWN TO HUIS TEN BOSCH, WHICH TAKES ON ITS OWN SPOOKY ATMOSPHERE FROM SEPTEMBER 1ST UNTIL OCTOBER 31ST.
TEXT: Yeti Mallavi, Cassandra Fegert PHOTOS: Evan Hayden 4
HAUNTED HOUSES Every day is Halloween in Thriller City! In this part of the theme park, there are several haunted houses that will make your hairs stand on end. Visit a deranged hospital, fight against zombies, or travel through a dark labyrinth! At 7:30pm and every half hour after that, be sure to catch the light show and listen to the beat of some of your favorite Halloween hits. And if you need a bathroom break, their lavatories are terrifying on their own and are well worth the visit.
THEY DID THE MASH Head to Rotterdam Square for the biggest Halloween party in Nagasaki! The Halloween Dance invites you to put on your best costume and dance to live DJs and musicians from both Japan and around the world. This year, there is also a special event for those dressed up as witches on October 7th, so be sure to swing by and bust a move!
RUN FOR YOUR LIFE Partying not your speed? Maybe you just want to train for the zombie apocalypse? Grab your friends, dress up, and start running for the Halloween Marathon! Options include 2km, 5km, and 10km runs. Both children and adults are welcome to participate in this event, making it the perfect family activity. Be sure to check the website for registration details.
A STROLL THROUGH THE GARDEN If you’re just looking for an autumn experience, check out the International Garden Show near the Palace Huis Ten Bosch, which features unique flower and plant installations by artists around the world. Visit during the daytime for a garden tour, concert, and flower demonstration. At night, take a stroll around the illuminations for both an enchanting and mysterious experience. There is so much more going on during the Halloween season, so be sure to check their official website for updates! 5
RUN TO THE LIGHT… with the Nagazasshi’s own Yeti Trudel Mallavi as she shows off some of Nagasaki’s spookier locales.
From the iconic movie Ringu to the creepy comics of Junji Ito, horror fans know that Japan does the genre well. If you want your next weekend trip to give you the chills, the Nagazasshi introduces you to these local spooks around the prefecture. SPOOKY ETIQUETTE
When looking for places to get a good scare, it’s important to remember to be respectful. Here are some things to keep in mind: No trespassing onto private property. If a building is locked or blocked off, there is a reason for it. It is discouraged to take photos of spots that are considered haunted or a sacred; burial sites, abandond homes, certain temples and shrines. It can be considered disrespectful to the dead. 6
HARIO WIRELESS TRANSMITTING STATION HARIO TOWN
For a historical and spooky adventure, take a trip down route 206. In the Saikai/Hario area, you will see three tall and intimidating smoke stacks sticking out of the landscape. Although they look straight out of a survival horror game, these buildings were actually radio towers that once served a very important purpose during the Taisho and Showa eras. The three towers were once part of the Hario Wireless Transmitting Station. Activated in 1922, these powerful radio transmitters were used to relay messages to naval fleets across the Pacific. It is also believed to have transmitted the attack orders for Pearl Harbor. Usage of the towers stopped in 1997 and the site is owned by the Japanese coast guard who maintain the area for visitors. With nature slowly reclaiming these buildings, the grounds give you the feeling that you are in a postapocalyptic setting and is perfect for if you ever want to do a zombie photoshoot.
OLD HYUGA TUNNEL NAGASAKI CITY
Near Nagasaki’s Penguin Aquarium is another cultural heritage site. The Old Hyuga Tunnel is from the Taisho Era, made of traditional stone. With the expressway and the New Hyuga tunnel built, this spot doesn’t get as much traffic as it used to, which makes it a prime spot for spooky stories. Rumor is that if you ride through it on a motorcycle, you can also see the ghost of a woman riding one as well.
SAIKAI BRIDGE SAIKAI CITY
MOUNT YUMIHARI SASEBO CITY
Mount Yumihari is known for its picturesque views with a beautiful hotel and onsen. But is also infamous for being haunted. If you take a hike up the mountain, you may come across an old abandoned building. Prior to the current Yumihari no Oka Hotel, there was a previous hotel that caught fire. The remains of the building are still there, and if you walk by it, you may hear voices whispering.
Connecting Sasebo and the Nishisonogi area, Saikai Bridge is known for its gorgeous views of the ocean and cherry blossoms during April. The tidal currents are strong and fast, and you can witness some of the largest whirlpools in Japan here. With a safety fence installed and precautions taken due to the merciless currents, the bridge is still beautiful during the day, but many might advise you to avoid stopping at Saikai Bridge during the night. Rumor has it that you can hear the voices of souls in mourning, and some say they might even follow you home. TEXT: Yeti Mallavi PHOTOS: Yeti Mallavi, Evan Hayden, Rekishi-JAPAN 7
Due to its uniquely diverse history and culture, Nagasaki is home to a large number of fascinating museums. This list is by no means exhaustive, so for information on various other museums around the prefecture, see: 8 visit-nagasaki.com TEXT: Will Tiley
(English 日本語 中國語言 한국어 FRA ESP NLD ITA)
PHOTOS: Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association（一社）長崎県観光連盟
Matsura Historical Museum Located on the island of Hirado, this museum focuses on the history of Matsura Clan, who ruled the area from the 12th to 19th Century. The museum hosts an extensive collection of items including an impressive selection of painted screens, and a complete set of samurai armor. What really sets this great museum apart is its documentation of Hirado’s history as the first international trade post in Japan. You can even try a samurai-style tea ceremony in a special tea room, or try on samurai armor here! visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/227
Unzen Disaster Memorial Hall (Gamadasu Dome) Divided into two separate halls, this museum provides a fully interactive experience of the two major volcanic eruptions of Mt. Unzen in 1792 and 1991. Visitors will be shaken and blasted with hot air during a unique and memorable audiovisual display. There is also a range of damaged items from the 1991 eruption, including bicycles, a film taken from the exact moment the pyroclastic flow hit the town, and remnants of houses destroyed in the disaster. Audio description is available in multiple languages via headset. visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/237
Nagasaki Prefectural Art Museum
visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/212
This gallery is a must see for art enthusiasts in Nagasaki City! The museum’s permanent collection is noted for its amazing array of early 20th Century Spanish art, including world famous artists like Dalí, Picasso, and Goya. This collection, widely regarded as one of the best collections of Spanish art outside of Spain, is on permanent display along with a large collection of Meiji Era artwork either inspired by Nagasaki, or created by Nagasaki born artists. The museum also hosts a variety of temporary exhibits, from traditional artwork to Studio Ghibli exhibits; be sure to check their website for the upcoming shows.
Nagasaki Museum of History and Culture
visit-nagasaki.com/spots/detail/214/
Nagasaki is renowned throughout Japan for its international history and distinct cultural identity. Not only does this museum cover the history of trade with the Netherlands, but also features the often overlooked trade partnerships that existed between Japan, Korea, and China. On weekends and holidays, a play performance at the reconstructed Magistrate’s Office reenacts the trials carried out in the Edo period. The museum also hosts a range of temporary exhibits, and English audio guides are available for free. 9
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TEXT, PHOTOS, DESIGN: Philip Walker
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TEXT: Will Tiley PHOTOS: Marc Mundy
The practice of archery has existed since prehistoric times as a method of catching food, defeating enemies, or displaying physical prowess. Kyūdō, however, is based on a different idea. With the arrival of the musket and the peace of the Edo era, the martial skill of using a bow became effectively obsolete. However, Zen monks took interest in archery due to its straightforward philosophy and need for selfcontrol, giving rise to kyūdō as you see it today.
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This evolution from an important battle skill to a peaceful Zen art makes kyūdō an unusual sport. The process of shooting is highly regimented – movements, body positioning, and even your behavior (punching the air when you hit the target is a definite no-no) are all important. The range also serves as a shrine, and all kyūdōka (people who practice kyūdō) must perform an aisatsu (greeting) at the start and end of each practice. The mentality is that
hitting the target is merely a side effect of proper technique and self-control, rather than the absolute aim of kyūdō. I’ll admit, when I started kyūdō just over 18 months ago, this all felt quite hard to believe. However, this Zen approach gradually began to make sense. Hitting the mato (a bamboo framed paper target 36cm in diameter) from the standard distance of 28 meters is surprisingly tough, and aiming purely using sight is extremely difficult. Therefore, by positioning your body in the right way, you significantly increase your chances of success. ‘Turning inwards’ is a common concept in meditation, and this is precisely what is required when practicing kyūdō. Your mind is so focused on what you are doing with your body that all surrounding issues seem to vanish. Memories of that chaotic class or unpleasant conversation from earlier in the day melt away, and instead you focus completely on the angle
of your feet or the position of your fingers as you grip the bow. Progress is very slow and gradual, yet for me, this need for discipline, patience and concentration is what makes kyūdō so rewarding. It is (excuse the cliché) very much a journey, and there are always improvements to be made along the way. Mastery of this simple repeated action really is the challenge of a lifetime. I must admit, despite merely being a side effect, the sound of an arrow punching through the target is immensely satisfying! If you are interested in trying out kyūdō, there are ranges in Nagasaki, Sasebo, Omura, Isahaya, and Shimabara, as well as at most high schools. Due to the steep initial learning curve, many will run introductory courses to get people started. 13
TEXT: Will Morgan, Dan Cohen
J apan is notorious for its celebration of Christmas, but ハロウィーン (harowīn - Halloween) has been slower to catch on. While trick-or-treating is still not, and may never be, popular in Japan, in the big cities you’ll find costume parties of a scale that’ll blow you away! Let’s review some vocabulary dealing with 仮装 (kasō - costumes)!
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First, here are some common costumes you may see: ゾンビ (zonbi) Zombie お化け (o bake) Ghost
ミイラ (mīra) Mummy 海賊 (kaizoku) Pirate
吸血鬼 (kyūketsuki) The three characters mean ‘suck’, ‘blood’, and ‘demon’, which doesn’t have the same mystique as our word for it: Vampire. 魔女 (majo) Literally “devil woman”, so naturally it means “witch”. 着ぐるみ (kigurumi) Full body suit cartoon character, like baseball team mascots. 小悪魔 (koakuma) Lady devil or imp. ポリス (porisu) Police officer. 警察 (keisatsu) also works! 魔法使い (mahō tsukai) Wizard, like Harry Potter.
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ナース (nāsu) Nurse, but make sure to elongate the ‘ā’ sound, unless you’re actually dressed as a なす (nasu - eggplant).
Second, here are some words to help you describe costumes! すごい (sugoi) - amazing, cool, great. This is an especially useful catch-all compliment. やばい (yabai) - crazy, as in super elaborate or scary. 怖い (kowai) scary, as in genuinely fear-inducing. 可愛い (kawaii) cute. Be careful with this pronunciation because it can easily be confused with ‘scary’ above. 格好いい (kakkōii) cool, good-looking. きもい (kimoi) short for 気持ち悪い (kimochi warui - disgusting). グロい (guroi) slang for grotesque. Adding a single syllable to these words can make a casual, friendly compliment. Attaching ね (ne) to most adjectives in Japanese and saying them in an enthusiastic voice is a great way to start a conversation about someone’s costume. すごいね! Sugoi ne! Wow! (lit. Great!) Some of you may be thinking, “but what about the です (desu)?” and you’re correct. A safe rule of thumb is to add です before the ね for people you don’t know well. Good luck with your コスチューム (kosuchūmu - another word for ‘costume’) compliments and have a fun Halloween!