nagazasshi 6
10. Issue
May/ June ‘18
HERE
COMES THE SUN
nagazasshi Volume 10 Issue 6 May/June 2018
Director
Dominic Balasuriya
Editor-in-chief Will Tiley
Editors
Andrew Haddow Yeti Mallavi
Copy Editor
Cassandra Fegert
Layout and Design Dylan Nordstrom
Contributors
Dan Cohen Dominic Balasuriya Cassandra Fegert Amy Flann FM Nagasaki Dylan Nordstrom Yeti Mallavi Will Morgan Graeme Taylor Charlotte Thoburn Will Tiley Hinako Yamaguchi
Founders
Andrew Morris Matthew Nelson @ nagazasshi instagram
gmail.com
issuu.com
cover photo FM Nagasaki
S
ummer is in the air, and at Nagazasshi, we have all been feeling the heat! In this issue, we take a look at some great things for you to build into your burgeoning summer plans… Personally, nothing quite says summer like a music festival, and Nagasaki’s very own Sky Jamboree (pg.6) is a party to rival the best of them. With tickets on sale soon and an exciting lineup waiting to entertain you, it’s surely one of the mustdo events of the year! Prefer your music a little more intimate and relaxed? We have the inside track on some of the top jazz cafes and jam nights around the prefecture (pg.4). In our hobbies feature, we also take a look at the art of wearing a kimono (pg.12). These elegant traditional garments are regularly seen at more special events and festivals, so now is the perfect time to pick out your favorite yukata and celebrate like a local. Or, if you want to go completely Robinson Crusoe, why not head out to one of Nagasaki’s spectacular islands (pg.8 & 10)? With a laidback atmosphere, miles of pristine beaches and delicious local specialties, you’ll hardly want to leave… Happy planning, and see you out in the sun! Will Tiley Editor-in-Chief Don't forget to check out upcoming events! 8 visit-nagasaki.com/spots/events 8 facebook.com/VisitNagasaki/
CONTENTS All that Jazz
4
Local jazz houses that you're sure to enjoy
Sky Jamboree 2018
6
All about Nagasaki's own music festival
The Outer Islands of Nagasaki
Nagasaki's islands are closer than you think
A Day Out on Iki Island
8
10
Experience the island life without leaving the prefecture
The Art of Kimono
12
Learn about one of Japan's most beautiful hobbies
Nihongo on the Go
15
photo Dylan Nordstrom
ho se w swing o h t For bit of Mallavi e l t t i l a f ti want , Ye some o e f i l rs. eir to sic ba in th es us u m uc rite ey introd saki’s favo Will Til o t o h a p Nag
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March/April 2018 | nagazasshi
Jazz Spot EASEL (いーぜる), Sasebo Sasebo is the city of jazz, which means that it also has more than its fair share of bars to go along with it. One of the most famous is Easel, located at the southern entrance of the Yonkacho arcade. This small bar offers an extensive library of records and CDs, dating from the 1930s to the present. In addition, they also frequently have live performances by jazz bands from around Japan, and jam sessions on the 4th Sunday of every month. A great spot if you’re looking to grab a cocktail and chat with fellow enthusiasts. Hours: 17:30-midnight
Doug’s Jazz Bar & Cafe (ジャズ喫茶ダグ), Hasami First opened in 1989, this little jazz spot is nestled on the main street of Hasami town. In addition to live music, the owner also has an impressive collection of CDs, records, and DVDs (over 4,500!) that you can choose from. On the first Saturday of every month, drop in for a jam session: whether you’re a regular or a newbie. Available to play at the bar are drums, a piano, and a variety of small percussion instruments. You can also bring your own! Can’t play an instrument? Feel free to step up to the mic and belt out a few! Hours: 17:00-midnight Closed: Sunday
Toki K, Omura With friendly staff and much more than just jazz music, Tori K is visited by a variety of jazz, blues, and classic rock fans. Drop in and listen to a few local musicians, or why not get involved yourself and grab a guitar off the wall? You can also bring your own instrument. They also offer a tasty selection of food - The German Potato, loaded with bacon, onions and cheese, is highly recommended. Hours: Sun-Wed 17:30-1:00, Fri-Sat 17:30-2:00 Closed: Thursday nagazasshi |March/April 2018
QUEEN KEBAB
QueenKebab.Sasebo
5
queenkebab_sasebo
NAGASAKI’S PREMIER SUMMER MUSIC EVENT
GREAT BANDS, LIVE MUSIC, BIG CROWDS
KEMURI 10 FEET STRAIGHTENER
SUPER BEAVER My Hair is Bad ....and more
SUNDAY AUGUST 19TH 11:00-20:30 @ MT. INASAYAMA PARK venue opens @ 10:00 Advance (June 17 , 10:00) Adults ￥7900|JHS & HS students ￥6900 Day-of Adults ￥8400|JHS & HS students ￥7400|Elementary Students ￥4000 All tickets are general admission and prices include sales tax th
"~one pray in Nagasaki~," and the 20th anniversary logo belong to FM Nagasaki
W
hat reminds you of summer? This is a question with thousands of possible answers, but for many summer is best summed up by one thing – music festivals. Festivals of all styles and sizes are popping up worldwide, offering revelers a perfect chance to cut loose and have a good time. A music festival is so much more than simply a big concert – it offers a chance to temporarily escape the stresses and strains of everyday life and lose yourself in a whirlwind of music, people, food and drink. Whether you are a veteran or have never been to a festival before, why not check out Sky Jamboree? Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, this event is one of the biggest festivals in Kyushu and attracts revelers (and top notch bands!) from all over Japan. Organized by FM Nagasaki, one of the biggest radio stations in the prefecture, the festival’s slogan has always been “~one pray in nagasaki~”, which expresses a wish to pray for peace. According to Mr. Kazuhiko Murakawa from FM Nagasaki, spending a day out enjoying great music together is a simple expression of peace. He thinks that the festival’s success over the past 20 years has been due to the support and co-operation of the people of Nagasaki: this truly is everyone’s festival. Text Dominic Balasuriya, Will Tiley nagazasshi |March/April 2018
With 10 bands set to grace the stage, a full day of great music awaits anyone lucky enough to have a ticket. Topping the bill this year are ska-punk legends KEMURI. Having played in the very first edition of Sky Jamboree 20 years ago, the band has returned several times since and is sure to get everyone in the crowd bouncing! Fans of Reel Big Fish and Less Than Jake, take note! Appearing for a whopping 15th time is punk trio 10-FEET. Stylistically reminiscent of bands like Blink-182 and The Offspring, this is no doubt going to be an intense and energetic set. Nagasaki rock band, Straightener, is set to bring a more emotional, euphoric edge as you dance your worries away! Relative newcomers SUPER BEAVER and My Hair is Bad have been tipped for great things, and their sets at Sky Jamboree are sure to be key steps on their way to the top. With 5 more acts to be announced in the middle of May, this is shaping up to be an amazing day of big name performers and rising stars. The festival has grown each year with the support of music fans from Nagasaki and all over Japan. With 10,000 people in attendance last year, tickets are sure to sell out fast – so get your tickets as soon as they go on sale on June 17th!
For more information: 8 skyj.jp
7
The Outer Islands of Nagasaki Ready for an island getaway? Hop on a plane or take a ferry - the islands of Nagasaki are closer than you might think. Learn more about the unique history and culture of Tsushima, Iki, and the Goto Islands as you enjoy the great outdoors, stunning beaches, fresh seafood, and local specialties! Photos Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association Text Dominic Balasuriya, Hinako Yamaguchi
Access Busan
Tsushima
Nagasaki Prefecture Tourism Association
（一社）長崎県観光連盟
Fukuoka
Iki
8 visit-nagasaki.com
English 日本語 中國語言 한국어 FRA ESP NLD ITA
ENDLESS DISCOVERY
N AGASAKI official visitor guide
8
Nagasaki
Goto
Sasebo March/April 2018 | nagazasshi
Tsushima
Tsushima Island lies in the Korea Strait, halfway between Japan and South Korea. For hundreds of years, Tsushima has been a gateway between these two countries. In 2017, documents related to envoys sent from Korea to Japan between 1607 and 1811 were registered by UNESCO as a “Memory of the World”. Tsushima is also home to unique animals, including the endangered Tsushima Leopard Cat and Taishu Horse. In addition to seasonal seafood, including sea eel and abalone, notable local specialties include Tonchan, marinated, flame-grilled pork, and Taishu Soba noodles.
Iki Located between Tsushima and Fukuoka Prefecture, Iki is famous for its natural beauty, delicious food, and is often said to be the birthplace of the Shinto religion. Iki is perfect for a wide range of marine sports, including kayaking, snorkelling and diving, the Iki Dolphin Park, and the white sands of Tsutsukihama Beach. Other attractions include the Ikikoku Museum, which overlooks the ancient Haruno-tsuji Ruins, the remains of a settlement from the Yayoi Period. This area also contains a life-size replica of buildings from that period. The island is also known all over Japan for Shochu, an alcoholic beverage. In addition to its delicious seafood, including sea urchin and squid, Iki Beef is also very highly regarded.
Goto Islands The Goto Islands are an archipelago made up of about 140 islands, located off the coast of Nagasaki Prefecture. The Japanese name means “Five Islands”, referring to the five major islands in the chain. Goto is home to numerous churches, and Christianity played an important role in the island’s history. When Christianity was outlawed in Japan during the 17th century, some people in Goto continued to practice their faith as Hidden Christians. Sites on Goto have been included as part of the “Churches and Christian Sites in Nagasaki” submitted to UNESCO for possible registration as a World Heritage Site. In addition to the fresh seafood on offer, Goto is also famous for its hand-stretched tenobe udon. Goto’s beautiful camellia flowers are also the source of camellia oil, used in various beauty products.
A Day Out on
Iki Island
Due to its relative distance from the prefecture proper, many go their entire stay in Nagasaki without ever setting foot on the white sand beaches of Iki. This hidden gem offers travelers a chance to experience the laid-back island way of life without having to trek to Okinawa.
Text Graeme Taylor photos Will Tiley
See With a total land area of little more than 130km, Iki has an abundance of coastline that dazzles in the summer sun. Take in the views at Tsutsukihama beach or at the famous viewpoint of Monkey Rock. While the locals will tell you that the swimming season ends after Obon, Iki’s pristine waters are swimmable from late May until October. Iki also has the honor of having the densest collection of Shinto shrines of anywhere in Japan. With over 300 (some sources say over 1000) it’s hard to go anywhere without seeing a torii gate. The mysterious Kojima shrine is only accessible at low tide, and draws crowds for its picturesque walkway. On the other hand, the Sai Jinja in Gonoura port offers quite a different “spectacle” that might, erm, raise your spirits (or your blood pressure).
Eat When it comes to food, Iki is no slouch. The local fishermen ensure that the island’s restaurants maintain a constant supply of delicious, fresh seafood to delight their patrons. In the winter months, yellowtail (kanburi) and sea bream (tai) appear in most restaurants, and as spring arrives, Iki’s famous sea urchin (uni) makes a splash. Not a fan of seafood? Iki stakes its culinary claim on its beef above all else. Iki gyuu is said to rival even the legendary Matsuzaka beef of Osaka. The various yakiniku restaurants around the island all offer this buttery-soft delicacy, and you’ll be hardpressed to find better meat anywhere in Nagasaki. Why not enjoy your meal with one of Iki’s famous brands of shochu? With seven distilleries across the island, Iki’s barley shochu appears in bars and shops all over the prefecture.
Do Iki is obviously most famous for its gorgeous coasts, but there are plenty of things to do when you’ve worn yourself out sunbathing. The booths at Nishiki Beach offer aquatic activities like snorkeling, jet-skiing, and scuba diving. The locals will also encourage you to try the extensive fishing available all over the island. History buffs can get their fill at Iki’s much-touted Ikikoku museum which preserves artifacts found on the island dating back as far as the Jomon period. After viewing the museum, travelers can take a stroll through Hare no Tsuji, a recreation of a Yayoi-era settlement. Finish off your journey through Iki’s past with a visit to Kakegi Kofun, a burial mound from the Kofun period. Coming to Iki in the winter? The beaches may be a no-go, but Iki’s other prime attraction will warm you right up: onsen. The northern part of Iki lies directly atop a natural source of iron-enriched spring water. The aptly named Yunomoto is a sprawling hot spring town full of onsen which you can peruse to your heart's content. nagazasshi |March/April 2018
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The Art of Kimono Few things are as ubiquitously Japanese as a beautiful kimono. But did you know that wearing a kimono is so much more than simply put-
ting on some clothes? Cassandra Fegert and Charlotte Thoburn are here to talk us through this highly refined and complicated art. photo Amy Flann
T
he kimono is a customary garment of Japan and one thing that many people think of when they imagine a more traditional Japan. Though some may know of kimono, a lot of them probably don’t think about the meticulous process of putting one on. Kitsuke (着付け – literally, dressing) is the art of wearing kimono. Types of kimono and obi vary depending on the season and occasion. You must remember each step, along with terminology. Everything is specific: ways of holding the kimono and obi, hand movements, folding, knotting – you must always be attentive for a perfect, neat arrangement. To properly learn kitsuke, one must find a teacher who has the license to practice and teach the art. Charlotte’s sensei has taught and practiced Japanese dance for years, journeyed through the six-month process of becoming certified in kitsuke, and can now dress in under ten minutes.
At the beginning of each class, sensei provides a diagram of the day’s lesson and the types of obi folds to practice, accompanied with small sketches depicting end results. While she expects students to study and memorize the various parts of kimono and ways to tie an obi, she also demonstrates that practice and repetition are keys to mastering kitsuke. At first, it can be distressing trying to learn and memorize everything – especially the complicated terminology and particular ways of tying knots and tucking in folds. Thankfully, kitsuke must be done in pairs so that you learn how to dress not only yourself, but also your partner. This allows for a secondary method of learning, often with a senpai who has gone through the process already! Through practicing kitsuke, you learn that patience is essential, and even if you’re tired of practicing the same methods repeatedly, it gets easier. The struggle is worth the beautiful results.
Personal Perspectives of Kitsuke
Charlotte Thoburn
I
have been studying kitsuke since January 2017, and have practiced it with 2 other ALTs. The first 10 months was with an ALT who had already done the program once, and who was able to translate the lesson and support me. The last 5 months was with an ALT who was doing kitsuke for the first time, which served more as a review for me. Reviewing the lessons helped me notice how much I have improved, and how much more confident I’ve become. When I first started, I would wait and watch my senpai and sensei do the task first before attempting it myself, and then I needed constant confirmation that I was doing it correctly. Now 15 months later, I have the confidence to dress myself in my kimono up to a standard my teacher is happy with! Kitsuke was one of the main experiences I wanted to try while living in Japan, and I would recommend it to anyone! nagazasshi |March/April 2018
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Nihongo on the 06 日本語オン・ザ Will Morgan
ウィル モーガン
Dan Cohen
GO ダン コーヘン
If there’s one thing Japanese young adults like more than Terrace House, it’s going to concerts! Just kidding, no one likes that show. But concerts are definitely popular among young people here. Here is a phrase that you might come across when chatting with your average college student: 私の趣味はライブに行くことです。 Watashi no shumi wa raibu ni iku koto desu. My hobby is going to concerts. Let’s break it down. Just plug a hobby into the blank for instant conversation. (私の)趣味は______です。 (Watashi no) shumi wa ______ desu. (My) hobby is ______. In Japanese, it’s quite common to omit personal pronouns when they can be inferred from context. It would be pretty weird to be talking about someone else’s hobbies, you know? Here’s a list of other hobbies that are popular in Japan. 読書 | DOKUSHO
reading
書道 | SHODŌ
calligraphy
茶道 | SADŌ
tea ceremony
水泳 | SUIEI
swimming
釣り | TSURI
fishing
空手 | KARATE
pronounced “kah-rah-tay”
You can also enter any instrument, such as 太鼓 (taiko - Japanese drums) or any sport such as ランニング (ranningu - running) or 野球 (yakyū - baseball). The longer phrases below are verbs that we have turned to nouns by adding “koto” to the end. Koto is a nominalizer, which means when you attach it to the end of a verb, it makes it into a multi-word noun, like “the thing of doing (verb)”. The first example at the top of the page is “the thing of going to concerts,” which sounds awkward in English, but is perfectly acceptable in Japanese. 料理をすること
| RYŌRI WO SURU KOTO
cooking
写真をとること
| SHASHIN WO TORU KOTO
photography
アニメを見ること | ANIME WO MIRU KOTO
watching anime
刀の腕を磨くこと | KATANA NO UDE WO MIGAKU KOTO
studying the blade
Don’t stop here! Refer to other Japanese study materials for more ways to talk about yourself. Just make sure your hobby doesn’t become 積ん読 (tsundoku - buying books and never reading them).