InDepth (MYANMORE) - Volume 11, September Issue by MYANMORE

InDepth No.11, September 2015

Beauty in the eye of the beholder

aye aye soe

more more more more

art fashion travel lifestyle

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

TEAM MANAGING DIRECTOR Andreas Sigurdsson andreas@myanmore.com

EDITOR Bob Percival editor@myanmore.com

smallholder coffee growers in Myanmar

18th Street - frogs for eating, old-style noodle making, and deep fried duck rolls

music

fashion

bistronomy

BBQ Ya Japanese Restaurant, Otake Japanese Restaurant

Aimee lawrence meets with Sandi Sein Thein, organiser of Geek Girls Myanmar

infocus

leisure

infocus

streets of yangon

CONTRIBUTORS

San Lin Tun Tet Ka Tho Soe Moe Naing Mimi Wu Bob Percival Chit Chan Cho Aimee Lawrence Borbala Kalman Nikta Black Manny Maung Richie Chan

COVER PHOTO Taken by Gerhard Jörén (www.gerhardjoren.com) at the Auto Man Quick Service Center

PHOTOGRAPHY & ARTWORK Gerhard Jörén Boris Le Montagner Richie Chan Hong Sar Salai Suanpi pt@images

ART & PRODUCTION Kyaw Kyaw Tun

art

Pansodan Gallery and their archives keepthe Myanmar art scene alive, courtesy of Aung Soe Min

translation

A new original San Shar Story - the Burmese Sherlock Holmes

through the looking glass

Chit Chan Cho looks at Umbrellas By The Lake

PUBLISHER

design

Richie Chan talks to acclaimed Burmese digital artist Moe Pike Soe

16 cover story

Aye Aye Soe, on the struggle of becoming a championfemale body builder in Myanmar

social enterprise

travel

Nikita Black sets off for a revitaling three-day stay in Bagan, luxury style, while escapes to the Monte diVino Lodge and Atythaya Winery in Shan State

PRINTER Shwe Naing Ngan Press Permit No: 05745 No.90(C), Kabar Aye Pagoda Rd., Bahan Tsp., Yangon.

SALES

local enterprise

sales@myanmore.com 01 375 680

Tim Mat tells the story of the new revolution for

MYANMORE is a registered brand under Lychee Ventures (Myanmar) Limited that manage the leading lifestyle and entertainment website www.myanmore.com. On top of InDepth, MYANMORE also provides city maps, a privilege card, a weekly guide and two guides - EnjoyIt and KnowIt. The mission is to give visitors and residents of Yangon more to enjoy and explore.

U Myo Aung (Permanent No.00315) InDepth MYANMORE Magazine 1st Floor, Annex Building, Strand Hotel, 92 Strand Road, Yangon

ABOUT MYANMORE

CONTENTS 5

DISTRIBUTION

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Darko C, talks of his roole in Turning Tables Myanmar, iempowering marginalised youths through music and film.

The Avenue's fashion collection of BCBGMax Azria, and the Chin fabric designs of Rosy

Rocskilde, Northern Europe's Larget Music Festival, featuring Myanamr artists The Idiots and DJ Valerie

A visit to First Thai Spa

Support the Music for Myanmar Charity Concert, helping hering impaired and deaf children

DISCLAIMER

No part of this publication can be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from the Managing Director. All details are deemed correct at the time of print, the editor, employees and contributors can not be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that might occur.

6 WHAT’S ON events

12th - 13th September

10th - 13th September

Yangon 2nd Intensive Kizomba Dance Workshop | Activities

3rd Housing & Living 2015 | Business The 3rd Housing and Living 2015 at Tatmadaw Hall on U Wisara Roa is held with the objective of enabling effective penetration of products and services into the market as well as promoting brand awareness. This expo will include real estate booths and home decoration appliances from within and without the country, construction materials, modern furniture, sanitation and kitchen utensils, high quality paints, industrial-use appliances and tools, electronics and electrical apparatuses. Tatmadaw Hall - U Wisara Road (Next to Minder Ground), Dagon Tsp | 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM

Following the success of their first workshop, they are delighted to be back. Ministry of Dance ”JoJo” will fly all the way from Thailand to teach on 12th & 13th September. JoJo Alfonso has years of experience as a professional dancer in all forms of latin dance, and has been conducting workshops on Kizomba dance throughout Asia. This is a beginners course and therefore no prior knowledge or practice is required. Phone: Rifaye Sahib - 09252405534. 7th Joint Bar and Grill - Shwe Asia Building, Corner of 48th Street on Mahabandoola Road. Botahtaung Township | 10:30 AM - 5:00 PM

Discover Sailing Clinic | Wathann Film Festival #5 | Sport Art & Stage The Wathann Film Festival team is very pleased and honoured to be given the opportunity to celebrate their 5th anniversary at Waziya cinema, the oldest and grandest theatre on Yangon‘s cinema row. Please go and celebrate! 9th13th September 2015. Waziya Cinema - Corner of 33rd Street and Bo Gyoke Aung San Road, Kyauktada Township | ALL DAY

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

training so that you will be to sail competently on your own, and to know the various parts and functions of the sailboat etc. Registration Deadline: 10th September. Fees: YSC Member (50,000 Ks), Non-Member (90,000 Ks). For course information contact U Aung Myint Thu (Instructor) - 09254066532.

mar’s economy as it prepares for a new government. For registration enquiries, please contact: rsvp@euromoneyasia. com. Myanmar International Convention Center 2 - Corner of Shwe Kyar Pin Rd and Nyanna Aung Myay Rd, Zabuthiri Tsp, Nay Pyi Taw | ALL DAY

Yangon Sailing Club -132 Inya Road (near Sein Lan So Pyay Garden) | 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM

17th - 19th September

12th September Salsa Night | Activities

Join the Union Bar at their famous Salsa night, together with Riccardo live from Latino's Bangkok. Dance the night away. Riccardo will set the right mood for you and will even bring a few more professionals along to teach you. They start dancing at 6:00 PM so go and join them for dinner and a drink! Union Bar - 42 Strand Road (same building as Red Cross by Strand Road) FROM 6:00 PM

15th - 16th September GLS Yangon | Business

Myanmar Yachting Federation will conducte ” Discover Sailing Clinic” on coming 12th, 13th, 19th and 20th September. The program will provide

Global Leadership Summit (GLS) will be in Yangon on 15th & 16th September at the Myanmar Convention Centre. The Summit speakers are: Bill Hybels, Allen Kagina, Jospeh Grenny, Carly Fiorina, Jeff Immelt, Bryan Loritts, Don Flow, Erica Fox, and Wilfredo Dejesus. Please contact their Administrator at 09263442009 for more details and registration. Myanmar Convention Center - Min Dhamma Road (close by Victoria Hospital) 8:30 AM - 6:00 PM

Euromoney Global Investment Forum | Business For the last three years, Myanmar’s political and business leaders have met with global investors and executives at the Euromoney Myanmar Global Investment Forum. This year’s Forum will once again be held in Myanmar’s capital, Nay Pyi Taw, and attended by over 800 local and international participants. Join them on 15-16th September to find out what lies ahead for Myan-

Renewable Energy Myanmar 2015 | Business Renewable Energy Myanmar 2015 is the most comprehensive renewable energy trade event in Myanmar and is part of the very successful renewable energy series organised by UBM, which includes Renewable Energy Asia, Thailand, Renewable Energy India, Solar Asia and Green Energy, Malaysia. This event is now available in Myanmar for the first time alongside with Myanmar Water as well as REVAC Myanmar. This trade event will showcase a wide range of services, technologies, supplies and equipment from various segments in the industry. Myanmar Event Park - Shin Saw Pu Road, Sanchaung Township (near Myay Ni Gone City Mart) | 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM

17th September Social Networking Event | Social AMCHAM Myanmar’s social networking nights are famous for the high-quality company, and fine food and drinks, so please join them for their September social networking event. The Chamber leadership, including many of the Executive Committee members, will be on hand to welcome you to the Club Rizzoli @ Chatrium Hotel, one the most authentic bars in Yangon. No cost to attend for members, non-members will be asked 10,000 Ks donation for their Scholarship Engagement Program. Free Drinks and light foods will be provided by the event sponsor BG Myanmar. Chatrium Hotel (Club Rizzoli) 40, Natmauk Road, Tamwe Township | 6:30 PM - 8:30 PM

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

WHAT’S ON 7 promotions

A Royal Feast

18th September European Film Festival Myanmar 2015 | Art & Stage Europeans in Yangon welcome you to the 24th annual festival featuring recent films from their countries. Once again a rich and varied program reflects the legendary diversity of Europe to the city’s cinema lovers. The number of participating countries is growing steadily. This year 11 countries have submitted films. This small catalogue of the films to be shown provides an indication of the variety on offer. Films with English subtitles. Free Entrance. Nay Pyi Taw Cinema - 224/228, Sule Pagoda Road (opposite to Sule Shangri-La Hotel) | 3:30 PM & 6:30 PM

19th September 2015 Workshop: Communication and Public Speaking - Plus a Bonus | Activities Will you like to learn how to speak in public? Would you like to learn more about communication? Then go and join when FFC - Foundation for Change - are holding a workshop about communication and public speaking. Maybe there will be a surprise in the afternoon. Sign up before the 17th of September. E-mail: billy@foundationforchange.dk or ffc@foundationforchange.dk Foundation for Change Myanmar (YMCA Building) - 263 Mahabandoola Road | FROM 9:00 AM

22nd September 2015 Hotel Preopening and Opening: Tips for Success | Business As tourism explodes in Myanmar and along with it the demand for accommodation, hotels and infrastructure sec-

tors represent a huge opportunity for investors. But one cannot open a hotel establishment without preparation and knowledge. Join this Breakfast Talk and benefit from the advice of experts. US$15 (Non-Member) / US$10reet (Member).

Savour our signature Peking duck dishes throughout the month of September. From the perfectly cooked golden crisp skin to the succulent and tender meat, this should definitely be in your “must order” list. Available during lunch (11:30 am to 2:30 pm) and Dinner (6:00 pm to 10:00 pm) all of September. Summer Palace at Sule Shangri La Hotel, Yangon, Myanmar

Parkside One - 271-273 Bagayar Street (close to Myay Ni Gone, Dagon Center), Sanchaung Township | 8:00 AM - 10:00 AM

Road (Near Kandawgyi Lake) | FROM 2:00 PM

24th - 26th September

30th September -

ProPak Myanmar | Business

2nd October

The 2nd International Processing & Packaging Exhibition for the Food, Drink & Pharmaceutical Industries with over 200 exhibitors from 20 countries, and five international pavilions from China, France, Singapore, Taiwan and Thailand. At ProPak Myanmar you can view: new products, machines, technologies and solutions, Find a complete solution to meet your growing and replacement machinery needs. Learn from industry events presenting the latest industry hot topics, trends, regulations and solutions. Network with the industry professionals of different countries. Myanmar Event Park - Shin Saw Pu Road, Sanchaung Township (near Myay Ni Gone City Mart) | 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM

26th - 27th September Romantic Weddings | Art & Stage Sedona Hotel Yangon invites you to their first-ever wedding show on 26th & 27th September. Create memories of your lifetime at the Sedona Hotel Yangon. They will feature the best bridal service, specially created for your romantic journey. Highlights are: Bridal Fashion Show, Menu Food Sampling, Lucky Draws, Special Promotions, Dis-

counts, Fortune Teller. Free Admission. Sedona Hotel - 1, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, Yankin Township (In front of Maha Mya Kyun Thar Garden) | 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM

27th September Mandalay Rumbling Mega Fight | Sport Mandalay Rumbling Mega Fight mainly organised by Myanmar Letwhay Association (M.L.A) and presented by Victory Myanmar Group Co.,Ltd, T&T Group and Naing Moe Entertainment will be held on the 27th September at the Thein Phyu Sport Stadium. The matches include: Thway Thit Aung (Nagar Ni) Vs Soe Lin Oo (Doh Yoe Yar) & Tuu Tuu (Nagar Man) Vs Saw Gaw Mu To (Thetti). More info at: 09795080285. Thein Phyu Sport Ground - Thein Phyu

Myanmar Security Expo 2015 | Business Taking place from 30th September 2nd October 2015. Myanmar Security Expo is the only security exhibition dedicated to the security industry in Myanmar and the region. It is an ideal business platform for companies interested in safety, security equipment and solutions. The three-day event will host some 70 international and local exhibitors along with around 3,000 trade and professional visitors. Myanmar Convention Center - Min Dhamma Road (close by Victoria Hospital) | 9:30 AM - 4:30 PM

Don't miss the MYANMORE Weekly Guide that comes out every Friday or get daily updates and complete listings on www.myanmore.com

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

8 STREETS OF YANGON

Photos by Hong Sar

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

STREETS OF YANGON 9

18 Street th

Bob Percival takes a walk downtown, discovering frogs for eating, old-style noodle making, and deep fried duck rolls.

s the rains continues to sweep in on Yangon, across the Delta from the south, it is time to go market shopping again down in Chinatown. Chit Pyu accompanies me to do translation, and Hong Sar our photographer is not far behind. At the bottom corner of the lower block, on Strand Road, lies the Kheng Hock Temple. This corner is also a hangout for the trishaws. One of the guys we talk to is refreshingly happy and bright for so early in the morning, calls himself Pyaung Gyi, which literally means ‘sidecar’. He charges 1500 Ks to travel up to the Strand Hotel and only 500 Ks for very local rides to the markets along the river. With a big smile, he tells us, “I am homeless”. His sidecar is his bed for the night. Further up the street (no. 4) there is a truck being loaded with used cardboard boxes. These are driven out to Shwe Pyi Thar on the outskirts of Yangon to be recycled. Nearby, at the Mite Mite store (no. 13) you can get shiny new steel buckets for 1500 Ks and steel mugs for 300 Ks. A room with shower and air-con at the nearby San Thaw Thar guesthouse can be had for12,000 Ks [local only], and a month's schooling for your Myanmar child at the govt. pre-school across the street will set you back 3,500 Ks. This lower block also has some delightful buildings. A 60’s block with typical Yangon funky railings (no. 24), a three-story block (no. 27), with distinctive anchor & rope insignia [maybe the home of a seaman], an old 1920’s apartment disguised as KIIS Fashion, which the boy living there tells us was first set up by his Fujian Buddhist grandfather who moved there to escape mainland China (no. 410). Further along, on both sides of the road, there are two grand rows of houses with stylish fading Chinese shutters [nos. 50-59]. Walk up further and you will see them making noodles from old ma-

chines rollers (no. 64), very similar to Italian pasta machines, only 1400 Ks / a viss weight (viss or peittha is 1.6 kg); the owner is Sin Kyawn Sein. There are also lots of outside eating places in the block where you can purchase noodle soup, rice, salad and conji, as well as deep fried spring rolls. On the corner of Mahabandoola Road, two young women, Thu Nandi Aung & Pan Ei Phyu, have their own small stall selling magnificent bundles of sticky rice wrapped in banana leaf (wat kauk hnyin) and deep fried duck rolls (duck mont), all for 200 Ks a piece. Crossing over Mahabandoola Road you reach the upper block. This is another great Chinese market street, like 17th. It’s crowded and bustling with early morning shoppers. Here, you will find raw oats (pauk pauk soke), is rarely eaten these days and now mainly fed to birds and used as offerings to nat spirits; Myanmar cake (bane mont), huge blue prawns (10 for 30,000 Ks), as well as tofu, pork, fish roe, chicken, any variety of fish, fresh fruit and vegetables. There is a good selection of salted fish (nga phal oung & nga sar nal) available, some in the form of big cutlets (nga gyin) and black catfish (nga khu). Also on hand are live crabs, and very large frogs (phar) at 10,0000 Ks per viss, some alive and some recently deceased. Chit Phyu assures me they are very tasty, deep fried and served with chili. As for eating out, there is an excellent noodle shop, the Sei Kyiek Hin (no. 77-89) which has been running since the late 40s and best of all the Real Tea Shop near the end of the block on the right (no. 138). Admire the funky wooden counters as you sip tea and watch the wonders of downtown Yangon pass by. As you leave 18th Street, buy a colourful orchid from he very delightful Daw Thaung Thaung Aye, at her small street stall. Make yourself and someone else happy. I gave mine to Chit Pyu. g

10 ART

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

ART AS A BASIS

FOR THE FUTURE Borbรกla Kรกlmรกn meets Aung Soe Min, owner of Pansodan Gallery and Archives (Yangon) to talk about the hidden sides of collecting, the importance of personal history and the need for institutions to build the future of the Myanmar art scene.TURE

Pansodan Gallery, a space for contemporary local artists

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

ntering a vast apartment on the third floor of a Pansodan Street building, close to Bogyoke Road, it’s almost like discovering the Den of AliBaba; gold and precious stones are replaced by archive documents, prints, photographs and objects of all sorts. One wonders how it was possible to collect these treasures that make up the Pansodan Collection and Archives. “We are now focusing on the process of enlarging the archives. We have started inventorying and classifying the items but we will need some time to finish,” says owner Aung Soe Min with the smile of someone who knows exactly how infinitely huge the task is that he has begun. For those who have an interest in Myanmar art, Aung Soe Min’s name will surely ring a bell. Pansodan Gallery is a major hub of the Yangon cultural scene and attracts people from a wide spectrum of the arts. “The gallery was to start in 2007, but because of the difficult situation the opening had to be postponed several times before finally being launched in 2008. My main concern was to change the existing business model, to run a gallery which is not merely a place to sell, but which allows several activities at once,” Aung Soe Min explains.

The space above the Gallery hosts – mainly in form of various vintage prints – a specific part of the exclusive collection that has grown over the two decades. A satellite space of the main gallery is the Pansodan Scene, which opened two years ago in one of the most imposing colonial buildings of Downtown, has become a major space for cultural events. Whereas the Gallery showcases mostly the works of the contemporary artists that Pansodan embraces, the Scene welcomes temporary exhibitions: solo shows, and also international projects, as well as lectures, round-table discussions and debates. Aung Soe Min has succeeded in realising a complex vision. “Our main concern is to show art in many different spaces. You could think that we are creating our own rivals or competitors, but we are creating a new generation. Yangon is changing in so many ways and art should be everywhere. Art is not only in the form of a painting: sculptures or public installations can add so much to the city. By experiencing art through gallery exhibitions, people may understand this more easily. Design and art have to be part of

ART 11

the current changes of the society and the country, art should be a basis for everything,” adds Aung Soe Min. His first experience with a gallery was in 1995; he then had supported a friend to open a project in Bagan. Later, besides being involved in several “gallery stories”, he started collecting, mainly the works of 19th/20th century Burmese masters, while working in the movie industry or as a publisher. Around 2000, he was planning to somehow back up the country’s upcoming artists with his own gallery but the time was not yet right. “A while ago, artists had regular jobs and regular incomes. They could create during their free time. It was a good way to support the artists and their community. Art classes at school needed teachers; magazines, literary publications illustrators; and the movie industry, posters and painters. Today, all this is gone. Media culture has changed, so has the artists’ lives. I think the worst period for the Myanmar artists was between 1993 and 2005; they had no kind of support at all, even the people who wished to collect were not ready; the

Aung Soe Min

through illustrations. The works of the artists who were strongly influential within society were simply unknown by the public. This created a huge gap,” says Aung Soe Min.

art system had a lack of serious infrastructure. A friend of mine tried several times to open his gallery. He closed after eight months; he had sold only two paintings – both were bought by me”, adds Aung Soe Min with a laugh, convinced that a good location or good contacts are not enough for a gallery in a long term.

Through the past decade, Aung Soe Min has established one of the biggest collections of contemporary art in Myanmar. “I bought my first contemporary paintings, among them Ei Kaza Cho and Soe Naing works, around 2005. I sold my properties and my original collection of high quality pieces so as to buy contemporary works. Everyone said, ‘U Aung has gone mad! He sold big masters for no names, for painters who paint like children!’.” Today Soe Naing is considered to be among the unique figures of the contemporary Myanmar painters’ scene. Since the country has gradually opened up, the international focus on the country’s contemporary art has continued to grow. “I think this phenomenon is mostly positive. Working closely with the international scene brings big changes, but also it will help the artists gain a much larger exposure. However, it also raises questions. Take a tree that brings fruits; you need to wait the right time to collect the fruits. To avoid the fruits to drying, you need natural growth – a lack of support or an exceeding amount of external energy can result a bad influence. You surely must be careful.”

“It was the business model and the gallery system that had to be changed. I tried to design my gallery in a way to create a dynamic gathering place with activities. Before 2009, the media didn’t think that gallery exhibitions should be part of the news. I tried to prove the contrary, which might also have contributed to rise people’s attention. I felt there were too few spaces encouraging contemporary art, also artists in general didn’t have spaces to exhibit; sadly we “lost” a lot of them this way. The best example is Bagyi Aung Soe. He mostly participated in group exhibitions, proving his talent publicly only

Hence the importance of Aung Soe Min’s vision: implementing art into various levels of society, grassroots projects to grow and become strong, like fresh plants. But plants need a stable soil to unfold, Aung Soe Min explains, “Artists need institutions to reflect the work of the local scene, and show the context that they belong to. In Myanmar, the art scene is very ‘hot’ right now, but it has all happened in a very short time. Too short to evaluate and analyse yet. As a kid, I used to collect postcards and comics. These were characteristics of the 1970s. In Myanmar, every decade has an outstandingly

Artists need institutions to reflect the work of the local scene, and show the context that they belong to.

popular, special kind of art form: in the 1980s – radio plays, in the 1990s – video-films. But most of these art forms stopped existing after ten years. No one remembers them anymore. Institutions should maintain these. To tell history and to approach history, the notion of museum is highly important. People nowadays don’t think about their history, they even sell their family treasures on the streets. I think the concept of the museum is the main key in order to switch people back towards their own history.” No wonder the direction Aung Soe Min is heading right now: introducing a museum-like approach into his own spaces, while at the same time emphasising major aspects of Myanmar art history that has never been written down in books. “The main gap in Myanmar art history is between 1972–1990. People don’t know about the art of that time. What we will try to do at Pansodan Scene is to have three-week long museum-like exhibitions, next to contemporary art shows. We don’t have a big space but we have to work with what we have.” That’s not all – as usual, Aung Soe Min had one more surprise up his sleeve. Two months ago, at 100 Bogalayzay Street a new member of the Pansodan family was born – Pansuriya. Its speciality is photographs. The material comes from the Pansodan Collection and Archives and its exhibitions are curated along different topics, to serve as a new model. The exhibitions not only allow a glance at exclusive vintage prints, from the end of the 19th Century up to a decade ago, but it’s also a way to show how photography has (technically) evolved over the years. “I believe that every town should have its own museum. My project is to inspire them, and work with them. But I also plan to have contemporary photography in Pansuriya – we always think of contemporary and historical together,” adds Aung Soe Min, already focusing on his next idea. g

Pansodan Gallery Art Space 286 Pansodan, first floor (upper block), Kyauktada Township, Yangon Pansuriya 100 Bogalayzay Street, Botahtaung Township, Yangon Pansodan Scene 144 Pansodan Street, Cnr of Mahabandoola Street, 2nd Floor, Kyauktada Township, Yangon

12 TRANSLATION

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

THE SCORPION'S TRAITOR san shar - the burmese sherlock holmes Once again San Lin Tun takes us into the world of famous detective San Shar in 1930’s Rangoon, with his translation of Shwe U-Daung’s Thiksabauk Kinmyigauk (The Scorpion’s Traitor).

ne day, Detective Maung San Shar was opening the letters brought by a postman wallah, and reading them. He handed one letter to me that was written in English, which could be rendered into translation as follows: Kyi Myin Taing Post Office Dear U San Shar, I would like to inform you that a person called Lar La Khan who is working in my post office as postman has not returned and has disappeared since Saturday on postal delivery. The incident may be found in the newspaper by you. That man has been working for over 20 years in this job. Not only is he an especially trustworthy postman but also his retirement is coming near, and I find it unbelievable according to the Police assumption that he is trying to run away with evil intentions.

Shar: " For how many people?" Chan: " About five or six people."

When he was sent out on that day he did not take much in money orders, and he was also given registered and insured parcels. In the last few years, sending him with a lot of money, he came back so honestly that I cannot imagine that this time he did not return in the case of such little money. He is a docile employer, especially in postal duty, he is friendly with me and I sympathise with him. I will be very grateful to you if you find him or if you figure out the cause of his disappearance. I will pay any cost concerning the case. Chandayar, Post Office Master

Shar: " Insured?" Chan: "Two."

After perusing the above letter, San Shar and I changed our outfits and went to Kyi Myin Taing with the car and went to the post office on Bargayar Road. The Bengali Post Office Master greeted us and answered the case-related questions raised by Maung San Shar. Shar: " Is it true Lar La Khan has been lost for 3 days?" Chan: " Certainly." Shar: " How much worth of money was with him?" Chan: " Not much. A little more than 100 Ks."

next to the vacant house. They said that because they had heard the slamming of the front door they thought there must be tenants in there now. But, they had not seen anyone entering or leaving the entrance, so they were quizzical about it. Later Maung San Shar noted down the name and address of the owner from the placard and left for Pansodan Street where the host resided.

Shar: " I want to know their names and addresses." Chan: "It's easy to find in the ledger book." Shar: " Previously what amount did he usually handle?" Chan: " Four or five hundred kyat." Shar: " Is he in the habit of gambling?" Chan: " No, he is a very honest old man." Shar: " How old is he?" Chan: " Over fifty." Shar: " How many registered parcels did he have?" Chan: "Three."

Shar: "How much were they worth?" Chan: "Not too much. 20 Ks a piece, and 30 Ks a piece." Then, Maung San Shar copied the names and addresses of the registered and insured parcels’ owners and those of the money order receivers. He guaranteed the post office master Chandayar that in a short time there would be more news from him and left the post office, reaching a house in Hteetan Street, which was the closest to the post office among those who received the money orders. On asking the host/ broker whether he had received a money order on Saturday, he confessed that he had. So we left his house. Next, we proceeded to another house. On the way... Shar: "It's true, Ko Thein Maung, there's no evidence of taking them away intentionally. If he was running away taking money, he wouldn't give money to anyone. He'd take all and run away. So, let's get to another house and inquire." In this way, inquiring along Hteetan

Cover of 'The Memoirs and Records of Shwe U-Daung'.

Street, the occupants of another three addresses admitted that they received their money or parcel. On reaching the fourth house, it was seen that it was closed without any living soul in it. Taking out the name list and looking at it, it was seen that the number of the house was correct. Then, Maung San Shar left this house and continued his inquiries according to the list. He found out that there were no houses which did not receive their money order or parcel. Then, Maung San Shar came to the last house whose owner confessed that he too had received his money order, San Shar asked the host where the postman wallah went after he had delivered the money. The host said that he had seen him crossing the road after leaving his house and going into the opposite house. Maung San Shar asked him this again because the house had on it a "To Let" placard, and there was no one inside it, so how could the postman have entered it. The host replied that though there was no tenant for three months, he had seen the door open on that day, and he thought that someone was occupying it. On asking why this house had no tenants for three months, though there were few vacant houses in the street, the host answered that the last tenants ran away because of a poltergeist. After this, Maung San Shar left the house and made an inquiry to the hosts

The host was an Indian named Muhammed whom San Shar asked for the key of the vacant house in Hteetan Street in Kyi Myint Taing. The owner took out a bunch of keys and gave him one. After smelling or pressing it with his hand and igniting it with his lighter, Maung San Shar spoke out: Shar: "Did you wax mold the key? Who is responsible for this key?" Med: “When the tenant comes, I give the key to the clerk who goes and shows the house. He is responsible for that." Shar: " Who came here to rent the house in Hteetan?" Med: "No one. But, someone did ask to rent the house in Kaung Kyi Street in Kyi Myint Taing." Shar: “How many days ago did this happen?" Med: " About 4, 5 or 6 days." Shar: " Is the clerk still here?" Med: "No, he isn't. He left the job." Shar: " Which day?" Med: "On Sunday." Shar: " You know where he lives?" Med: "No." To be continued … Shwe U-Daung (1889-1973) was a proBurmese writer and translator, who in the 1930s adapted many of the original Sherlock Holes stories, placing them in the setting of the author’s Rangoon, in a time of nationalist fervour, high crime rate and social unrest. The Scorpion's Traitor was an original story, not an adaptation.

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS 13

Umbrellas by the Lake By Chit Chan Cho

mbrellas are usually commonplace articles of convenience, and the average Yangon dweller would know to keep one, but when queried on umbrellas plus lake they would know to only think of Inya Lake. Rightfully, they should only be envisioning that little romantically askew length of stony embankment that is saving the Pyay road from an Atlantis fate. This life-preserving stretch is rarely un-pimpled with umbrellas shading two love-addled individuals from rain or shine, but most pertinently the scrutiny of the public. It is what romance is here; colourful, dramatic, poorly concealed and the public very much involved, willing or otherwise. Romance is a serious business here. How serious, could be summed up in this little tale of a non-fiction bent, which is most reliable because it was a gossip. Beginning with a boy and a girl who were very much in love, it was the usual tale of close proximity, vicinity and neighbourly convenience. Predictably, the parents opposed with inane reasons such as teenage youthfulness, not a penny each to rub together, hollowness of brains, unsoundness of minds and such. Therefore they hugged each other (possibly cried a bit but the gossiper was stingy with details) for the length of a day and night in the living room. The parents finally acceded, out of frustration and/or possibly disgust, to their matrimonial schemes. End. The lake remains perpetual in its constancy as the nesting ground of couplehood, although the wooing game has changed perceptibly with time. The more arduous love pursuits of days gone by have been replaced with random poking on Facebook and meeting up with saccharine-voiced strangers that one has misdialled on the phone. Although the following acts have diminished, many an old source could confirm that it was most proper to stalk a pretty girl home and conduct a stake out for a second glance. If the lass found the suit contempt-

ible, she would unleash her bloodthirsty brothers or corpulent breadwinners, and if not probably some umbrella-wielding covey of mildewed spinster aunt who would gladly make mincemeat of him. However, should the same lass wish to indulge her fancy, she would allow the lad to become a leading pest in her neighbourhood and inflict his presence upon vegetative outgrowths and pavements by her abode. Not much encouragement was required for the purblind boy to be up to something ghastly. By the next night, a badly tutored guitarist, doubling as a badly pitched vocalist (still the same mooncalf), would caterwaul on hours end about palmists and islands on his love line. Had he been born with a decent degree of self-doubt, a friend with better vocal cords would be enlisted at the price of a meal or a ‘table’ as the boozers termed it. Should lady luck favour the yowling lad, the lassie would make an appearance at the veranda with her hair down and wearing a close-lipped smile (manifestations of Hello Kitty print pyjamas and Care Bear soft toys are considered an added bonus). The kindly neighbours would also watch on in unholy amusement and not douse

them with water or insults if the serenading took place outside of their Korean drama schedules. The newly formed couple would then share a brolly and sit at the prior embankment to seal the deal. Serenading has dwindled over the years, especially so with the sprouting of high-rise residences but elopements are still very much in vogue. A precipitate flight to Gretna Green or somewhere closer like Bago or just a few doors down really, would be followed by a period of waiting; the wait for the family to summon them back into their viper-bitten bosoms to ‘save face’. The daring couple would then be married with as much pomp as the parents could muster in a ceremony filled with the parent’s friends. Yet by no means are all the couple stories here as gripping. The mundane must always exist but there is no denying the spirit of a little drama. Therefore there is never a shortage of Lotharios and Romeos, nor Juliets and Miss Julies; a few Werthers here and there but thankfully without the blowing out the brain bit. Although there were rumours of copycat suicides after the film adaption of Romeo and Juliet (1968) was released. Truly. Couple-peeking is a pastime some time-rich youngsters would employ themselves to, and they would vouchsafe that the juicy bits were their flesh that the mosquitoes took

chunks of. From them we hear of the happenings under the umbrellas and it usually ran along the prosaic lines of the girl being perpetually unhappy about something and the penitent chap cajoling her back to good humour. Girls are known to affect these fleeting demonstrations of frigidity to enjoy the luxury of melting again. However, let us not be too keen to absolve the resourceful fellows of any sin; even if it is seemingly trivial like Jane Eyre’s tower of mental wife, or Bluebeard tendencies. Had the gentleman failed both at chicanery and cajolery, the damsel would spend a fitful night biting her pillow to kill rising sobs, whilst cherishing a determination to dump him the next morn. These ladies being confirmed dumpers, it will verily happen with the lake as its witness. Although retribution rarely reaches Medea’s pitch, there were harrowing teashop talks of fellas being pushed down flights of stairs and having a clean hole drilled with pencil of sorts on his person. On the dumped laddies’ side, short of homicide, they usually indulged their heartbreaks (or liver-breaks here) with incessant phone calls and a round of wall punching. Failing that, or not, alcoholic restoratives will be guzzled to possibly ensure that their ‘A Thé’ (trans: liver) does break. Heartbreaks must also be nursed at the lake but sans umbrella and background music. Let us, however, assume that all is well in the cosmos with the umbrellas and the lake. Whether their current relationship status is at the onset of love or nearing the advent of hate, the lake must placidly bear it all. g

14 DESIGN

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

digital art comes of age in Myanmar Richie Chan talks creative with internationally-acclaimed digital artist and graphic designer Moe Pike Soe.

oe Pike arrives for our interview in a clean, plain white t-shirt and casual pair of jeans. It’s hard to imagine that behind this simplicity lays a world completely the opposite. His digital art creations speak of a phantasmagorical nature – dramatic, and sensationally dressed in vivid textures and striking chroma. The work of this 23-year-old self-taught designer-artist is one of fantastical imagination, drawing upon space odysseys, aliens, sci-fi fiction and his love of cities, as sources of inspiration. In a span of just four years, Moe Pike has accumulated an impressive repertoire of work, including commissions from world-famous clients such as Nike and Nissan, while at the same time pursuing his studies at some of the world’s most prestigious design institutes. On the day of our interview, Moe Pike is relaxing in his Yangon home. His family who are based here, play a major role in his life.

The Kick

When did you first discover that you had design abilities?

Describe your style as a digital artist and the style of work you produce.

Design runs in the family so I was brought up in a creative environment. My brother is into landscape photography. My father’s an architect and he too, picked up photography as a hobby. He has held exhibitions here in Myanmar and has won awards for his works in South Korea. I knew I had a creative mind and that painting wasn’t for me, so I came into digital art.

I haven’t quite developed a unique style of my own, as I am still learning from others and discovering new techniques such as 3D modeling and photography. Some of my works do carry consistently recognisable elements and language as I am inspired a lot by sci-fi stuff. Even if a client’s commission does not relate to any of the above, the techniques of application e.g. Photoshop brushing, or

finding compositions, can still be similar. It’s also about managing and adapting to change. The Nike and Nissan commissions must have been a huge deal for you. What’s it like working with them? For Nissan, I was engaged by an agency to work on a website design project. For Nike, it was more exclusive. They invited 25 artists from all around the world to each produce an artwork, in

conjunction with the launch of Christiano Rinaldo CR7 Footwear Line. In fact, just last year, the works were displayed at an exhibition held in Singapore. To be honest, working with Nike’s a dream but it definitely came with pressure. I was not sure if I could deliver and meet their expectations. Nevertheless, I was glad they liked my submission and I felt really honoured to have been part of this wonderful project, as well as Nissan’s.

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

Perhaps you would like to share a personal favourite work of yours. It could be the most meaningful one. I would like to share with you a work that was completed last year as part of an art collective entitled ‘The Man from the Moon’. Here, a man stands on the moon and is only greeted by the vast vacuum of the universe, Earth from afar, and these pillaring portals that stand before him that he only has with him to refer himself back to the familiar world. These portals open up views to other parts of the world. What I was trying to achieve here is a portrayal of man’s ability and consciousness. The mental and visual spaces of man can manifest and connect to the physical space before him – limitless, expansive and endless to worlds of unexplored possibilities. To match up with this portrayal, I wanted an atmosphere that was fitting and could capture feelings of solitude and peace through some form of emptiness; how astronauts always say when they are up in space, they realise how small their problems are? We are on a bigger scale, yet we are so small, and the things we do – it surprises me. And by the way, the man in the image is me!

DESIGN 15

Myanmar on the world map and inspire fellow designers and artists. That is a motivation for me. The streets of Myanmar are where I can get inspiration. I’m working on this branding project and the clients wanted a Burmese element to it. I drew ideas from architectural motifs, the kanok style, and translated them into graphic logos.

Graphics are powerful tools used sometimes to convey social, political or cultural messages. Social media is popularising in Myanmar. How has that changed the way you work?

You mentioned that although Myanmar is developing, it has been inspirational to you and your work.

When I started out, not many people knew I did digital creations. I put up my works on Facebook and that received positive feedback, so I kept creating to gain more exposure. It was not until I moved to Behance (an online portfolio portal) that changed my life. I started receiving invitations from international art collectors, made friendships, and met my mentor, a branding designer from Italy who played a role in kick starting my career. And of course I have had to rebrand my work done over the past four years.

Not many people outside of Myanmar know about our country and what we can be capable of. So I wanted to prove to myself and others that we can put

Given your international exposure and status, any advice you could give to young budding designers who would like to be in your shoes?

Moe Pike Soe

Just love what you do. And there’s so much to learn from on the nternet. I am self- taught and if I can do it, anyone can. I believe anything is possible, as long as you are devoted to what you do. I draw every day, practice every day (every night!).

be controversial, offensive or insensitive in nature – whether intentional or not. Nevertheless, they are a voice, a socio-cultural expression and identity of a people. They have the potential of opening up discourses or dialogues previously untouched or avoided.

What makes a good graphic?

Perhaps you could share your thoughts on such graphics and use of such graphics in a city like Myanmar?

If it’s an art piece, it depends on how the artwork makes you feel and is connected to you. You can decipher what the artist is thinking and what his message is. If it’s design, a good design is always invisible. If something works, it’s clever and people don’t notice it. Graphics are powerful tools used sometimes to convey social, political or cultural messages. Sometimes, they can

I think as a designer, you have to be aware of your environment and what others will think of certain subjects. If it’s too sensitive, perhaps you should consider even doing it. In Myanmar, for example, designing around religion – people take these things seriously – so it’s better to be careful and do a lot of research. It has to be done without disrespecting any of the categories or groups. In graffiti culture where it is an identity and expression of the people’s voice, I look at it from an art perspective. I don’t mind a graffiti work on the walls or surfaces if it’s beautiful and has meaning. It can create illusions. Any dream projects? My dream plan is to build a creative studio here. But first I will have to convince my parents about heading back to Parsons. In the meantime, I’m saving money to hopefully get things going. Moe Pike’s achievements represent a beacon of hope for fellow designers and artists who want to build a career in digital art and extend their work beyond the shores of Myanmar. g

Man On The Moon

16 COVER STORY

Aye Aye Soe, Photo by Gerhard Jörén at Rose Garden Hotel

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

COVER STORY 17

Beauty in the eye of the beholder bodybuilding and a pageantry of sorts Manny Maung talks to Aye Aye Soe on the struggle of becoming a champion female bodybuilder in Myanmar.

yanmar people don’t consider me beautiful,” Aye Aye Soe, 25, confides when we meet in her newest gym near Thuwana stadium. “I’ve always been naturally slim and needed to put on weight which is what started me training in the first place.”

cle and when you work out, your body is burning fat. So women rarely put on muscle bulk easily.” Another thing that annoys her, mainly because of the sexist overtones, is when she is catcalled by men. It gets infuriating then, when they leer at her and call her a lesbian or “tomboy” (a pejorative term in Myanmar) once they realise their muscles are puny in comparison to hers.

Wearing black skinny jeans and a checked shirt, Aye Aye Soe sports a short, asymmetrical haircut and some light makeup. A shaved undercut exposes a small tattoo just below her right ear, and another exposed tattoo on her right wrist suggests there is something of a rebel spirit lurking just beneath.

I thought at the time, I am never going to be considered to have the looks needed for a beauty pageant but I can be beautiful and strong and fit – this was how training made me feel.

In Myanmar’s conservative society, tattoos were considered taboo, especially among women. The trend has enjoyed a surge in popularity in the past few years but it is still considered fairly risqué behaviour for women to undertake. Yet, the tattoos are not what draw distinction to Aye Aye Soe. Rather, they reinforce her apparent independence and ability to challenge the status quo.

“It’s so ridiculous,” Aye Aye Soe says. “I’m doing what I do for the love of sport and to perform as an athlete. It’s not for anything else and I want to make that really clear: I take my professionalism seriously.”

Her position as a gold medal winning body builder also pits her apart from the rest. Not only is she good at what she does, she’s achieved what few in her country will even dream of – winning gold in an international competition. Only Aung Swe Naing, Myanmar’s top performing male body builder, has attracted more controversy than Aye Aye Soe, but this is because of allegations of drug use (from his own team) just before the start of the Southeast Asian Games that Myanmar hosted 2013. Aye Aye Soe attracts the controversy simply because she is a woman. She may not be considered classically pretty by Myanmar-standards but there are likely others who would disagree. She has full lips which reveal neatly lined

For a determined woman in Myanmar, the hurdles of stereotypes and expectations can be limiting. If anything, these limitations have made Aye Aye Soe more determined. white teeth and when she smiles, her dark eyes glint mischievously, helping to accentuate her pixie-like features. In fact, the first thing I note is how feminine she appears. She is graceful and lithe – and she is petite. Weighing just 56 kilograms and 5.4 feet tall, Aye Aye Soe is hardly what one expects when meeting

a professional body builder. It is a common – and annoying – misnomer. “Everyone thinks that body builders are massive but that’s just not true,” she explains with more than a hint of exasperation. “It’s actually very difficult to put on bulky muscle and to be lean. You have to work really hard to build mus-

It started when she was 16. Myanmar culture deems a woman’s curves as her highest mark of beauty and by family accounts, Aye Aye Soe was informed that she was a runt. Wanting to put on weight, she began working out at a local gym. A hobby soon turned into a regimen. Before

18 COVER STORY

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

long, exercise was a part of her daily routine. By the time she turned 20, she felt strong and fit – and beautiful.

In between training, Aye Aye Soe worked as a trainer in the gym of Sedona Hotel in Yangon. Everything she earned went toward training and her competitions, she says.

“I asked myself, how could I make myself feel even more beautiful?” Aye Aye Soe tells me. “It was actually one of my trainers who thought I could do well and suggested I enter competitions.”

In 2014, she finally landed the ultimate prize, a gold medal in the physique round of the highly regarded 12th Southeast Asia Bodybuilding competition.

Working as a clerk at the Myanmar Bodybuilding and Physique Sports Federation, she met her mentor, Maung Maung Kyi, who became one of her strongest supporters, encouraging her to train harder and eventually helping her become interested in competition training.

“I felt vindicated,” she says. “All the criticism against being a female bodybuilder, all the naysayers who had to say congratulations afterward, it was satisfying to know I believed in myself and could achieve this.”

“I could see my body changing and adapting to the exercises that I was doing and it felt so satisfying,” Aye Aye Soe recalls. “I’m small but lean, so the physique division in competing really called to me. I could stay small but could build form and be strong.”

Aye Aye Soe gives credit to her family who did not necessarily approve from the start, but gave her their best when they realised her heart was set. She has now taken a year off training and competing to start up two gyms: one in North Dagon and one in Thuwanna. Her business partner had the funds and she had the nous, which made sense in opening the gyms as a joint effort. They cater for both men and women, with personal trainers and tailored programs available for those who want to consider training harder.

Women’s bodybuilding – or more aptly, body sculpting – competitions have four main divisions. Judges assessing the bikini division look for tone rather than muscle definitions. This round is considered more apt for the sports or bikini model “look”. The figure division requires more posing, which judges assess for poise and balance. The fitness division assesses athletic tone, flexibility and gymnastic strength. Aye Aye Soe’s preferred division, and one that she has won medals for, is the physique division. Lean muscle mass with very little body fat and a good, even balance of muscle over the body is what rates with the judges. In 2012, Myanmar women were finally able to compete internationally. The widespread easing of restrictions and sanctions at the time helped to open up a whole new world of possibilities for many in the country. For Aye Aye Soe who had been competing nationally since 2010, international competitions were a marked step away from what she thought she knew. “We had been competing in longyis in Myanmar, and we were finally given approval to wear two pieces, a sports bra and bicycling shorts,” she says. “In international competitions, I wore a bikini and had to learn how to oil up and apply spray on tan. Besides getting used to a bikini, I was wondering why on earth would they want to put tanning lotion on me when I’m already brown!”

For the next five years, Aye Aye Soe’s ambition is to expand the businesses to include spa facilities and fitness classes, while continuing to be a personal trainer. She’s not sure whether she wants to compete again, but she hasn’t scrapped it off the “to do” list.

Aye Aye Soe Photos by Gerhard Jörén

A string of international competitions in 2012, which she self funded to compete in, saw Aye Aye Soe awarded first place or in one of the top four positions. “I thought at the time, I am never going to be considered to have the looks needed for a beauty pageant but I can be beautiful and strong and fit – this was how training made me feel.” A strict regime of diet control and exercise is necessary for honing a body into shape she says. Food is the critical factor and some days, Aye Aye Soe would have to force herself to eat. “You have to eat to replenish your body, and sometimes I wasn’t hungry, but I knew I had to put fuel into it,” she explains. “Other days I wanted to eat more variety but I had to be so disciplined.” During pre-training, she would carb

load to try and put on weights. Always, there would be eggs, lots and lots of eggs, then plain noodles. Once she switched over to full training mode, her diet would involve mostly protein-laden food, more eggs (although just the egg whites to reduce calories), steamed chicken, fish and plenty of vegetables. In the evenings, she would eat more proteins and take her vitamin supplements.

Some challenges still remain. “It’s hard to find a man who is not intimidated by me,” she says with a wry smile. “And it’s hard for me to meet someone who understands that I prioritise my work. But I’m happy being active, being productive and working hard rather than sitting around waiting for someone. Sometimes, you have to go out and get the things that you want.” g

Some advice from Aye Aye Soe to those who are considering training: • Don’t be afraid of bulking up! You can always moderate training. • Diet is one crucial point in bodybuilding. Fries and sweets are your main enemies • Work out regularly and heavily under supervision of qualified trainers • Rest well to get muscle recovery • Try to get a good rest and sleep • It’s important to follow the training schedule strictly and rest one day every week.

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

SOCIAL ENTERPRISE 19

The Rise of the Geek Girl A new playground ruled by an equal dosage of geek and chic is amplifying the representation of women in the crux of Myanmar’s connectivity revolution. Aimee Lawrence meets with Sandi Sein Thein, organiser of Geek Girls Myanmar, to discover how the community group is giving a voice to female tech professionals in an industry commonly commandeered by men.

ot too long ago geeks were a tortured breed, regularly made a spectacle of for their intellectuality in everything technology related. Fast forward to the 2000s and ‘Geek is the New Chic’ is a sentiment proudly emblazoned across everything from T-shirts to mugs – anything that could be plastered with this new message of acceptance and celebration, wore it.

culture. But the country is changing quickly with foreign investments and western lifestyle influences making their mark. Step by step we can we help make a difference.” Since September’s first meet-up of thirty attendees, the Geek Girl crew has grown and their appetites for learning have been met with a host of monthly events and workshops with various guest speakers. Topics covered in their programme have ranged from communications and public speaking, aiding rural communities and women with technology, app building and perfecting the online image.

Whilst this fashion craze has eased in the West, in Myanmar an enthused Sandi Sein Thein joined by a multi-skilled team of six board members, is driving a new energy into the geek chic phenomenon and in this case, it is anything but a passing fad waiting to lose its place to an equally trendy successor. “Geek Girls Myanmar is much more than a seasoned fashion parade. It’s no novelty. We’re here to stay. In the beginning I heard comments from some of the men in the tech industry who believed we’d probably fizzle out. “They underestimate us. We’re not just for fun and they’ll see that with our dedication, comes longevity.” Geek Girls is not a new concept. Its roots can be traced some 4,000 miles away in Sweden when in 2008, two Swedish women in reaction to male dominance within the industry, created the Geek Girl Meetup as a community for women in tech to rally and gain support. Encouraged by this movement and how it could benefit women in her country, Sandi Sein Thein launched Geek Girls Myanmar in September 2014 as a Facebook group with the support of Ooredoo's entrepreneurial branch Ideabox. Its objectives are simple: to provide women with the skills and the knowledge to empower them in the national and global tech community. “We want to be a driving force in women claiming their place in the tech industry and help them beat challenges they might face along the way,” Sandi

Despite its progress, Sandi Sein Thein points out that the country’s aspiring female techies need to take a much stronger, more proactive approach in their progression. Sandi Sein Thein, Community Leader of Geek Girls Myanmar

Sein Thein explains. “In order to encourage a wave of female tech professionals in Myanmar, their participation in the global tech community needs to be ramped up. Giving them the confidence to find their voice is a big part of what we’re about. Females in this country are commonly innately shy and in an industry dominated by men, they need to be able to overcome this.

They underestimate us. We’re not just for fun and they’ll see that with our dedication, comes longevity

“I see Myanmar’s connectiity revolution as an opportunity to try and balance the gender inequality within the tech industry gap before it continues to grow.”

In Myanmar the struggles can in part be placed in the hands of the country’s social norms. Once coupled with the equally detrimental issue of there being an absence of hang-out spots for women to share ideas, the causes behind the disparity become glaringly obvious. “Women, including myself at 26-yearsold, still have a curfew which is restrictive and a problem men don’t face. Technology doesn’t shut down at a certain hour meaning the industry can sometimes run nocturnally. But working through the night on projects with men is not an option for women as they have to respect their parent’s boundaries and this is how they get left behind. “In terms of hang-out spots, women mainly get together here to do typically female activities – shopping, cinema, hair salons and things like this. They don’t have many options to unite on a professional level. “This is difficult to change as they are social issues firmly embedded in our

“Yes, we’ve had a really encouraging response from the female techies out there but to make a real difference and for us to be able to help them improve their prospects they need to take more initiative and participate, if they have dreams of being leaders in the field. “I’m still learning myself and have learnt a lot in the short time we’ve been here. We’re a team and strong teams collaborate. Where some people are weak others are strong and the best ideas come from having the confidence to freely express ideas and confidence can come from knowledge. Self-learning is the key to success.” Can Geek Girls Myanmar retype the involvement of women in the tech industry and close the gendered gap? With their dedication to attracting a wider female audience, their exciting calendar of events including hopes of hosting the country’s first female only hackathon, the future certainly looks bright. g

Website: http://www.geekgirlsmyanmar.com, Email:info@geekgirlsmyanmar.com, FB: https://www.facebook. com/geekgirlsmm

20 TRAVEL

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

Bagan Luxury, calm and voluptuousness By Nikita Black

â&#x20AC;&#x201A; Photo by Boris Le Montagner

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

TRAVEL 21

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

22 TRAVEL

Everyone has a special place to hide when in need to escape busy day-to-day life and let go of worldly concerns. While some prefer the simplicity of nature, others seek the spirituality of a monastic retreat or on the contrary, the comfort of grand hotels. Taking advantage of the Waso Full Moon Festival, Nikita Black sets off to Bagan for three days to forget all about Yangon and find luxury, calm and voluptuousness.

otivations to visit Bagan are as numerous as the temples it holds. While it is an obvious tourist destination both for its historical and religious pasts and presents, it is also for many a sanctuary for the spirit. Set 380 miles away from Yangon’s bustling streets and clogged traffic, Bagan is a place to go when in need to relax. Its open spaces, trees, river, faraway hills and its majestic plain of decaying temples make the old religious capital a unique place to slow down and put yourself into perspective while facing its vast and grand, yet fragile past.

The beautiful thing about Bagan during the rainy season is that there are hardly any tourists and that although it might occasionally rain a little, the weather is very enjoyable. Climbing Mount Popa doesn’t seem quite as tough. The sandy tracks of Bagan are not so dusty which makes it easier for bikes and cars to get around, and the crowds that gather for the sunset on the temples tops are much more manageable. And even though the hot balloons do not operate between April and September, many other activities await visitors. Undoubtedly, the pagodas remain Bagan’s major attraction. With over 2,800 temples, of which some are still in use, Bagan has a lot to offer for those on a pilgrimage. The most famous ones, such as Ananda, Dhammayan Gyi and Shwezigon are always busy due to their history and grandeur, but many smaller ones exude something just as special and spiritual. Anyone can find their own favourite abandoned temple that may well treasure precious hundred year old paintings falling apart. There are pagodas hidden deep in the plain, others are rooted on the banks of the Ayeyarwadi River. More awaits the traveller who sails over to the opposite shore: four temples which, if visited before noon, will make all prayers come true. It requires to set-off by 4am but the scenery, the journey and the effort blend together into a feeling beyond words. At dusk and dawn, Bagan’s natural beauty is particularly awe-striking. Admiring the setting sun, and later the high rising moon erases any notion of time, while the glittering backdrop of stars behind

View from Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort

the high shadows of sleeping temples touches emotions deep down. Similarly, the rising sun over the plain would make anyone feel wholesome in this world, as a tiny speck in the masterpiece of creation. At the end of the day, a good way to maximise those revitalising moments is to order a bottle of wine, shrimp tempura and admire the reflection of the Waso full moon on the surface of the pool … before taking the symbolic cleansing dive that definitely washes away any remaining tension. Getting there: Flights to Bagan operate daily and take one hour and a half, count US$300 for a late minute weekend return ticket . VIP buses also travel there in about nine hours, for around US$25. Staying there: To indulge in Bagan’s most beautiful pool and enjoy breath-taking views of the river, visit the Thiripytsaya Sanctuary Resort. Set in the Archaeological reserve area, it is a haven of peace and you can ask to have the TV screens removed from your room, should you need a real break from the outside world. It hits the spot if you want to imbibe the essence of centuries of Buddhist tradition and enjoy a luxurious retreat.

Anyone can find their own favourite abandoned temple that may well treasure precious hundred year old paintings falling apart. Eating there: Restaurants in Bagan have been flourishing with the influx of both foreigner and local visitors. Standards have gone up, and now even fine Italian dining is available at the The Library. For good Myanmar food, look for the well-hidden Teak House, which has made a name for itself in only a couple of months after opening. Another interesting dining spot for traditional Myanmar food is the Myu Myu restaurant: you will spot an eclectic mix of crowds there, as even celebrities occasionally drop in for a curry. Although quite far away, the best view definitely goes to the Popa Mountain Resort restaurant. Within Bagan, you might want to try the panoramic restaurant at the top of the controversial Nann Myint tower. Shopping there: Bagan has many options on offer for those who want to bring back special presents for their loved ones. Lacquerware is of course

a highlight, as some very traditional shops still treasure ancient techniques. There are some very small yet renowned workshops that are definitely worth the visit. If you are in a bit of a hurry and don’t really have time to search for these or watch a demonstration, directly head off to Momo Lacquerware. Then, for anything else from sweets to wooden puppets, baskets, bells and bracelets, head off to the lively Mrauk U market. Discovering more: There are many festivals in Bagan … although not during the rainy season! Be sure to make it back here in January for the one month long Ananda Festival. This is one of the biggest religious festivals in the country. Also jokingly referred to as a “shopping festival”, due to the flourishing bazaars that take over the city, it is in essence a big moment for Buddhist pilgrims. Wealthy families donate food to hundreds of travellers, while theatre troupes entertain the crowds. For those in search of local culture, check out the puppet shows and Bagan dances organised in restaurants (Nanda operates all year around), hotels (The Thiripytsaya) and at the Dendaree Hall. g

Thiripyitsaya Sanctuary Resort Bagan Archeological Zone, Old Bagan Phone: +95 61 600 48, +95 1 255 333 Sponsored by Sakura Group

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

TRAVEL 23 mer military state in 2012. “The nationalities visiting Aythaya have changed quite bit over the years. In the beginning we used to get a lot of Austrians and Germans, but nowadays they are outnumbered by the British, Americans and French,” explains Mr Leiendecker.

MONTE diVINO Lodge in the Winery Jessica Mudditt travels to Aythaya Winery in Shan State for a weekend away to rejuvenate and restore. She finds a tranquil haven in the hills.

hen Yangon becomes too wet, hot or just plain busy, take comfort in the knowledge that a serene weekend retreat is attainable in the cooler climes of Shan State. While the wine produced by Myanmar 1st Vineyard Estate, under the Aythaya label, is ubiquitous throughout this country, the accommodation at the winery, for now at least, remains something of a well-kept secret. The three luxurious, timber and glass paneled bungalows of the Monte diVino Lodge were designed by Amelie Chai from SPINE Architects, and overlook the rolling mountains and the winery below. The bungalows sit seamlessly into the side of the mountain, and each is enveloped in a plethora of tropical flowers; visitors at the winery’s restaurant can be forgiven for missing them altogether. Each bungalow is equipped with a king size bed, indoor and outdoor showers, extensive balconies, well-stocked minibar and chic furnishings. Plasma TVs and Wifi will also be available soon. Whether you’re looking for a romantic weekend away or a secluded spot to

polish off that manuscript, the Monte diVino Lodge will certainly provide the necessary tranquil surrounding. Nowadays, the winery itself now attracts up to 300 visitors a day. When the 100 percent foreign-owned vineyard and winery first opened in 2004, Taunggyi locals were reluctant to even approach it. “Myanmar was a completely different place eight years ago. Myanmar people actually seemed scared to come to a foreign business. So I said, ‘Okay, if they won’t come inside, I’ll go outside and show people what we have to offer.’ We actually put tables and chairs on the side of the road – that’s how our business began,” relates the Director of Technical Operations, Hans Leiendecker. Despite initial doubt from Aythaya’s founder, a fellow German called Bert Mosbach, the experiment worked and the pair haven’t looked back since. Although they initially assumed the winery would appeal more to foreign tourists than locals, today the locals far outnumber foreign visitors. Locals

comprise around 80 percent of all visitors – attributed in part to a sizeable population of wealthy Taunggyi residents and Yangonites who are keen to escape the heat and bustle of the commercial capital.

Last year Aythaya recorded an impressive 8,000 foreigners, while local day-trippers totaled 25,000 people. The Sunset Wine Garden Restaurant is now at full capacity, so the owners have decided to build a café and a second bar, along with an enormous menu that features Myanmar, Chinese, Shan and European culinary treats. There is also a Mongolian-style barbeque on Friday nights and daily specials – guests can sample Aythaya’s wine varieties for 2,000 Ks and take a complimentary half-hour guided tour of the vineyard and winery. Mountain bike hire is also available, and stand-up paddleboards will be available soon. The winery is located just 25 kms from Inle Lake, which means there are good hiking trails nearby. In October, Aythaya will open a spa and sauna retreat, managed by Thin Thin Yu, a licensed acupuncturist and certified holistic healing practitioner with ten years professional experience in Canada and the US. Thin Thin Yu’s concept is that the addition of wellness spa to wine country will make it similar to Napa Valley in the US. Rates per night at Monte diVino Lodge start from US$120 a night from September until April. g

As for the foreign clientele, they too have changed over the years thanks to the end of the tourism boycott led by a UK-based rights group and the lifting of EU and US sanctions against the for-

For more information and to inquire about weekend packages, visit www. myanmar-vineyard.com.mm or email lodge@myanmar-vineyard.com.mm

24 LOCAL ENTERPRISE

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

Myanmar Coffee Finds Its Origins International experts say Myanmar-grown varieties of Arabica coffee are already good - but have potential to get much better. One USAID-funded economic development project, implemented by Winrock International, aims to ensure smallholder growers can also cash in as the coffee sector takes off Tim May tells the story.

Shan State coffee grower tending seedling in local plant nursery

n April, just as Thingyan was starting, an American named Steve Walls climbed aboard a plane leaving Yangon with an unusual item packed in his carry-on. No one questioned him about it until after he arrived at his final destination , Seattle, Washington. Walls took a taxi to a conference centre where growers, roasters and buyers of the world’s most expensive coffees were gathered for their biggest trade event of their year: the Specialty Coffee Association of America’s (SCAA’s) Annual Exposition. There, over steaming cups of black coffee, partnerships

are formed, deals worth millions are done, and once every decade or so, a new coffee region or country (known in trade parlance as a new origin) is ‘discovered.’ In a side hall at the Expo, Walls – who leads an agriculture value chain project funded by the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID) in Myanmar – found a couple of coffee experts referred to him by contacts. Pulling them aside, he extracted his secret package: a bag of unroasted coffee beans harvested from Arabica coffee plants grown in obscurity in the moun-

tains near Mandalay. The beans, an unusual bluish colour, caught the attention of Andrew Hetzel, a trade expert from Hawaii and SCAA’ board member. The bluish tint reminded Hetzel of Jamaica’s famous Blue Mountain coffee, which along with Hawaii’s Kona is among the finest in the world. He was intrigued and decided he needed to know more – a lot more – about Myanmar coffee. Since the day Walls unveiled his bag of mysterious blue beans at the Expo, global interest in Myanmar’s potential

as an emergent producer of specialty grade coffee has risen dramatically. Worldwide, trade experts say the market for specialty coffee is growing at a steadily, with demand rising even as supplies dwindle due to increased labour costs, urbanisation and deforestation of farm lands, and damage from unstable weather patterns. That means a “new” origin like Myanmar (even though coffee actually has been grown here for more than a century) is well positioned – if it can develop its sector smartly and inclusively, by focusing on quality and ensuring economic growth

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

brings benefits to all participants in the coffee value chain, including smallholder farmers. *** Fast forward to late May 2015. Less than two months after the last Thingyan hoses fizzled out, Hetzel and a pair of specialty coffee experts travelled to Yangon as volunteers to help the Value Chains project conduct Myanmar’s first internationally accredited coffee cupping (tasting) competition. Organising the competition and collecting samples from hard-to-reach farmers who had never before submitted their coffees for analysis would prove daunting, but interest in learning how Myanmar’s coffee stacked up against other specialty coffees from around the globe was growing. For coffee farmers in Myanmar to participate in the export market, increase incomes and create jobs, it would be critical that they first understand the quality of their product. The cupping competition would serve as an audition for Myanmar’s virtually unknown coffee, and a means of spotlighting the importance of measuring quality as a key to future success. The two-year-old Myanmar Coffee Association (MCA) agreed to collaborate, providing sample roasting equipment and a venue at Yangon’s popular Shwe Pu Zun Cafeteria and Bakery House. Value Chains’ Myanmar staff members coordinated with MCA and farmers to organize the competition, which was conceived by the U.S.-based non-profit Coffee Quality Institute (CQI), a new Value Chains project partner with expertise in equitably strengthening coffee value chains in developing countries. The panel of international judges included Hetzel, Craig Holt, the owner of Atlas Coffee Importers, a high-end importer based in Seattle, and Matt Graylee, owner of Flight Coffee, a sustainability-focused importer and roaster from New Zealand (currently one of the world’s hottest markets for specialty coffee.) The three judges were complemented by a pair of experienced Myanmar and Thai tasters, both of whom volunteered to help balance the judging and scoring. After the judges graded unroasted samples, they oversaw roasting and grinding. Over the next three days, all 58 samples

LOCAL ENTERPRISE 25

were carefully brewed and then slurped in flights of six cups each to ensure a cross-section was tasted, and to gauge flavour characteristics at varying temperatures. Of the samples submitted, 42 came from smallholder farmers targeted for direct support by the Value Chains project in the Ywangan region in Southern Shan. The remaining 16 samples were submitted by established large coffee estates (50-200 acres), located mostly in the Pyin Oo Lwin area outside Mandalay. Three days and 348 cups of coffee later, the results were ready, and some contestants were nervous. (One grower worried privately that the international judges would score none of Myanmar’s coffees as specialty grade, a potentially heavy blow to the nation’s young sector.) As it turned out, he needn’t have worried. In all, a total of 21 of the 58 samples submitted earned scores of 80 or higher, meaning they could be classified and marketed as specialty grade, and potentially sold on the export market for premium prices. And the news was especially good for smallholders. When the results were tallied, the two top-scoring coffees came from a pair of tiny (approximately one acre each) coffee farms owned by neighbouring women farmers in Southern Shan. Daw Phyu Pu and Daw Mya Hnin earned the highest scores in the competition, at 84.25 and 84.08, respectively, for their naturally-grown coffees, grown at elevations of about 4,100 feet. Judges said they were impressed by the samples’ complex flavours, and used words including “caramel, lemon, honey and fruit juice,” to describe the mix of aromas and flavors of Daw Phyu Pu’s coffee. Of the 21 samples that scored as specialty grade, a whopping 16 came from smallholders, a promising result. In the separate estates category, the top-scoring coffee was earned by the auspiciously named Blue Mountain Farm, a 70-acre estate at an elevation of 3,800 feet near Pyin Oo Lwin. The farm was started by a pair of brothers who went into the coffee business in 2003, and its coffee earned a score of 81.42, just above the specialty redline. Four other estate coffees also scored above specialty grade. Wai Phone, a co-owner of the Western-style Coffee Circles café in Yangon,

Ripe coffee beans ready to harvest

participated in the cupping as one of the two observer judges, and tasted every one of the 58 samples. “We were really surprised that the (top-scoring) winners were the smallholders,” he said afterward. “This will boost their confidence in continued pursuit of producing better coffees, and serves as an example for the more established farms to improve their quality as well.”

For coffee farmers in Myanmar to participate in the export market, increase incomes and create jobs, it would be critical that they first understand the quality of their product.

According to experts like Hetzel, Holt and Graylee, huge potential exists for Myanmar’s coffee sector, especially if stakeholders take an inclusive approach by working with smallholders as the coffee sector expands, and by investing time and energy to improve quality. *** The five-year Value Chains project is actively working with farmers to do just that. In August, the project launched the first in a series trainings in Southern Shan designed to reach 1,200 coffee farmers by the end of September with hands-on assistance in improved coffee plant health and plantation management, focusing on simple but effective techniques farmers can use to improve quality and yield, including composting, spacing, shading, pruning,

and selectively harvesting only red, ripe coffee fruit (called cherries), instead of stripping branches bare. To stimulate private sector involvement and investment, the project is building relationships with companies like the Mandalay Coffee Group, Ltd. and Genius Coffee, both of which are working with smallholders to purchase and aggregate some of the highest-quality coffee grown in the region. “Myanmar coffee is entering the world’s coffee market at an opportune time as overall global exports and consumption are forecast at record quantities and inventory of available stocks are at their lowest levels in the past four years,” Hetzel wrote in a recent marketing report. “Myanmar’s message to the coffee industry is simple and authentic: a rustic gem of natural resources and ideal climate conditions for coffee production that is inhabited by organized and industrious people who have recently emerged from isolation.” Hetzel isn’t alone in his bright forecast. In early 2015, during a trip to Myanmar facilitated by the Farmer-to-Farmer volunteer program to help Myanmar coffee growers develop new market linkages, coffee trader Al Liu told a group of farmers in Pyin Oo Lwin: “This is a huge opportunity for you. People don’t know about you and will be very surprised to see what you are doing here. If you focus on promoting quality practices at all levels, you can create a brand and image that people will remember.” Timothy D. May is Communications and Outreach Specialist at Value Chains for Rural Development, a USAID-funded project implemented by Winrock International, with offices in Yangon and Taunggyi. Contact: tim. may@winrock.org or via Twitter, @ TimMayBurma.

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

26 MUSIC

VOY music and social change workshop & songwriting section on Kanma (Magway Division)

Photos by Turning the tables

Turning the Tables on Marginalisation Aimee Lawrence speaks to Darko C, the frontman of one of Yangon’s most revered indie bands, to hear how his role as co-ordinator of Turning Tables Myanmar is empowering marginalised youths through music and film.

urning Tables, a Danish non-profit, is founded on an impassioned belief that music and film creation is a fundamental part of youth development. It promotes music and film as a form of communication and creative expression and offers training and use of professional equipment to musicians, videographers and producers of both.

Having partnered with Oxfam, UNDP and Unicef, and worked with thousands of excluded youths in some of the world’s most troubled places including neighbouring Cambodia, the organisation set up a lab in Myanmar in 2013. Darko C, most commonly known as the dyanamic vocalist and founder of indie rock band Side Effect, became involved

in 2013 after meeting founder, Martin Jakobsen, who saw an opportunity to pave a path for social change in a country which is opening up to the world. “I met Martin at the first workshop they held here,” Darko recalls. “The next year they were looking for a coordinator and I was it. Now i have become the Lab Manager. From my own experiences I believe in the power of bringing

The rebel riot

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

MUSIC 27

in social change with music and film. Channel your energy into something positive rather than frustrations leading to violence. Turning Tables has done some radical work with thousands of youths so I was eager to get involved.” As Darko C bore witness to, the oppression of Myanmar’s people was not exclusive to the adolescent demographic. Under the military junta almost all dissent was suppressed during its 50 year reign which enclosed South East Asia’s second largest country in a time-warp. A civilian government is now in place and the country has progressed dramatically. But decades of isolation, stagnation and institutionalised oppression cannot be wiped clean with one singular sweep. Present political rhetoric is characterised by voices of discontentment littered with hope in light of the approaching election. But at least these expressions of opinions can now be voiced, on the most part, without fear of retribution. Freedom of expression may now be a right exercised in Myanmar, but in a country fraught with extreme poverty, ethnic persecutions, religious conflicts and civil war, what if some of the voices of those living through these experiences aren’t heard? This is the struggle faced by Burmese adolescents and young adults. Myanmar’s elders are venerated due to a societal culture in which age is still con-

The participants (from Myitkyina, Loikaw, Kanma, Pathein) of VOY bootcamps, performing the song "Voice of the Youth" which they composed together

Their concerns and visions for a better future are just as valuable, if not more so, as the opinions of our elders.

sidered synonymous with experience and wisdom and so the voice of youth, past and present, is cast aside. “In Burmese culture young people are taught to respect their elders. You’re still considered a child into your 20s. You only really gain freedom from your parents when you get married which is once you’re seen as a grown-up and taking care of your own. “It’s a custom for us to look after our elders like they did for us when we were children. We don’t want to remove this from our way of being, we’re proud of the way we respect our elders and care for our families. But we want to change the perception that younger people’s opinions aren’t relevant or important enough to be listened to and considered. “Their concerns and visions for a better future are just as valuable, if not more so, as the opinions of our elders. “Turning Tables is about giving teenagers and young adults an outlet to express their grievances, hopes and dreams. We need to give them confidence so they can feel empowered and believe in their abilities and have the courage to go after their dreams. We’re hoping it will be like a domino effect and that youths

will inspire other youths.” As well as working from its Yangon lab base, the Turning Table troop has reached out to youths affected by violent conflicts in the northern mountainous terrain of Kachin State, right down to Pathein in the Delta region. We also went out to Rakhine to do the social cohenion project Rhythm & Peace. “Kachin State has been devastated by internal violent conflicts for decades which negatively impacts your wellbeing and it the people that have experienced this who need this the most. Only they can describe what they’re going through to help others in similar circumstances and we’re giving them the tools and the confidence for them to stand up and speak out for their community. “Our first documentary project One Woman, One Camera a documentary series we did in partnership with Oxfam Myanmar and Global Platform Myanmar. We ended up with five really powerful and educational short films that highlighted real stories of young women struggling with domestic abuse and coping with being breadwinners and housewives. These are issues millions of women in Myanmar can relate to. “There is a wealth of raw talent in remote villages which goes unnoticed. Pathein isn’t far from Yangon but even in that short distance the difference, young people feel completely closed off. Their families can’t financially support them and in many cases, they don’t want to because they don’t see it as something they can make money from to support the family.”

28 MUSIC

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

Activity in the Yangon based lab has taken an interval with the team plunging their efforts into scouring the country for aspiring artists as part of its Voice of Youth regional workshop tour. “The response to this has been absolutely amazing. We put on workshops then we had our national song contest. The talent out there is incredible and it’s an honour to be able to give them a platform like this. It positively forces them to really think about what they can do to create peace in a country of co-existence so we can work towards a better future together.” An energy packed crowd flocked to the Voice of Youth two-day free music festival in June which put on an unrelenting show featuring a line-up packed with Myanmar’s progressive rock bands including Side Effect, and in an outpouring of support, international bands from Denmark and France took to the stage. The Voice of Youth tour will culminate with a compilation album set for release at the end of the year, featuring the two winning records which stormed

VOY bootcamp participants recording the song "Wake Up" at DIY Studio5

the song contest, as well as a selection of the other stand-out entries and tracks from Myanmar’s revered rock bands. On speaking of the challenges they’ve been met with so far, Darko notes that in some circumstances workshop attend-

ees have been tense and nervous to fully participate and share their experiences. “Sometimes we’ve found that they’re still hesitant to get involved because they’re not bought in to the concept that music and politics can work togeth-

er for their benefit. But this is just the beginning. You can’t free their minds from age-old social norms and change the perception of the younger generation overnight. Small steps lead to big change.” g

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

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30 FASHION

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

BCBGMaxAzria at The Avenue By Mimi Wu Peruse The Avenueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wide selection of BCBG Max Azria party dresses and accessories for your next night on the town.

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

FASHION 31

on chic, bon genre is Parisian slang for “good style, good attitude” and is the inspiration behind the BCBG Max Azria clothing brand. Since 1989, American designer Max Azria has created affordable, contemporary designer fashion for women around the globe. The BCBG Max Azria woman is flirty, feminine, sensual, and trendy. As an authorised retailer of BCBG Max Azria in Yangon, The Avenue clothing store keeps steady stock of their readyto-wear clothing, cocktail dresses, evening wear, shoes, and accessories. Though the apparel is taken from various seasons and collections, colour is what ties the pieces together in this store. There is prominent use of black and white pairings, as well as blue on its own or mixed with black. The store also leans toward party dresses and accessories. Popular at the store has been a black lace-trimmed dress that cinches at the waist for an easy day look. Black lace also adorns a white halter dress with a keyhole cut that is appropriate for parties. A standout is a black midi skirt with triangular patterns that has been cut out and laid with nude tulle, but BCBG’s limited tops will require customers to complete the look with another line from the store. For a fun night on the town in blue, try the romper with flowing sleeves in a faded dark blue, blue lace dress set over nude fabric, or an asymmetrical peplum top. In 1998, Azria acquired the Hervé Léger fashion house, and in 2007, the American designer relaunched the label with his own designs. Signature to the label is gorgeous bandage body-con dresses in a thick rayon-nylon-spandex blend fabric that have been embraced by celebrities such as Beyoncé and JLo. Currently representing that style in the store is a white-based dress and shirt in a black and nude brush stroke pattern. The casual collection embraces California cool in muted colours that can quickly become a rodeo look if one is not careful. Pair red or blue shortsleeved shirts in a fabric mimicking that favoured by the Hervé Léger label but set with a looser fit with the threetiered fringe skirt in concrete suede and black faux leather. Skip the suggested loose vest and culottes to stay young and chic.

A standout from the casual wear is the faux leather crop jacket with large floral needlework on both front panels and in the back. Needlework in the same colour palette (peach, pink, and cornflower blue) outline the jacket. Finally, a bohemian maxi dress with medallion-style lace and a split front scoop neck in fresh, light blue is a gorgeous ensemble for an evening garden party. To finish these looks or add glam to others, choose from The Avenue’s collection of BCBG belts and jewelry, which heavily feature gold hardware: plates, locks, and studs. Fun and sexy open-toed stilettos with a wall of beads hanging from the ankle strap, comes in red, black, and white. All over black or blue sequins catch the light on large envelope clutches, while pouches are bedazzled in a blue ombre palette. If you prefer carrying more, the box clutches in bedazzled blue and black with silver woven pattern will suit your needs. Unusual to BCBG are rhinestone-encrusted headbands with a choice of cat ears. Wear them for a pinch of humour or to jazz up a Halloween costume.

The Designer Max Azria is the founder of BCBG Maz Azria, which has over 550 boutiques worldwide and is carried in specialty stores and major department stores including Saks Fifth Avenue, Hong Kong’s Lane Crawford, Taiwan’s Mitsukoshi, and Singapore’s Takashimaya stores. Azria was born in Tunisia, educated in southern France, and trained in Paris, France. For 11 years he designed women’s apparel in Paris before relocating to Los Angeles, California to launch Jess, retail boutiques for women’s clothing.

In 1989, Azria launched BCBG Max Azria and debuted at New York Fashion Week in 1996. Three years later, he was inducted into the Council of Fashion Designers of America for his production of affordable designer fashion. Since February 2004, Azria has kept busy, beginning with the launch of Max Azria Atelier, a collection of couture gowns for red carpet events and celebrity clients. In February 2006, Max Azria, a ready-to-wear collection, was debuted at New York Fashion Week. In Fall 2008, Max Azria produced BCBG Max Azria Runway, Max Azria, and Hervé Léger by Max Azria collections at New York Fashion Week. Also in 2007, Azria launched BCBGeneration for teens which can get at oversea outlet RAG & DENIM (Junction Square). BCBG Max Azria clothing at The Avenue ranges from 170,000 Ks to 795,000 Ks, and accessories start at 45,000 Ks. g

The Avenue No. 18A, Kohmin Kohchin Road, Bahan Township, Yangon Ph: 01-860-3337 or 01-545-929

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

FASHION 33

Diverse World Of Chin Fabrics Mimi Wu sits down with Rosy for a lesson in Chin fabric patterns.

’ve always been interested in the patterns and colours of Chin fabrics since I was very young. I’ve seen my mother create new designs and work with weavers” – some of whom were relatives. Cing Zeel Niang, who goes by Rosy, grew up in Chin State watching her mother run a Chin fabric business, which she credits as a subconscious inspiration to start her own business along the same lines. In 2012, Rosy began working at a private hospital in Yangon. “Eight months after starting the business, I quit the hospital job and focused on fabric.” Three months after that, she was married, and she is now expecting her first child. With so much happening, her mother has been supremely helpful. “When we order the fabric from the weavers, we have to pick the patterns, and she’s way better than me at this selecting,” from weavers, who are hired to produce fabric from their repertoire of patterns. “ Originally, Rosy wanted to hire weavers full-time but found it more expensive “because to get all the different patterns, we needed to handpick or collect from many different suppliers. One group of weavers cannot produce so many different patterns at the one time, as it costs them money to hire a professional to change the pattern on their handlooms.” Sixty percent of Rosy’s fabric stock is handpicked, while the remaining 40% is custom ordered. “We make changes in the patterns and colours. It normally takes one to three months to finish one new pattern of fabrics, and then we get ten pieces, which the weavers send by bus from Chin State to Yangon.” Chin fabric varies widely throughout the state. Rosy explained, “In Myanmar, there’s the northern and southern

part of Chin State, and the fabric is quite different. In the North, there are three different tribal groups: Hakha, Falam, and Dedim, and the patterns are quite different.” Rosy is from Dedim in Northern Chin State. The North tends to produce ethnic designs that are simple and not particularly significant in meaning, according to Rosy. “Southern patterns are also simple for daily wear, but when they weave a shawl, it is very good quality. The shawl is the size of a table runner. They are very unique and complicated. In the South, they don’t just use regular handlooms. There are two different handlooms: one with a bigger frame like a door, and the other that has a back strap and weavers have to sit.” Beyond the northern and southern divide there is also a country divide. “There are some Chin people living on the Indian border or they live in Manipur in India. The design patterns are similar, but they produce high quality hand woven fabrics that are better than what we produce in Myanmar. So I try to get pieces from every region because I want to represent Chin State, not just northern or southern parts, but from every tribal group.” Why Indians produce higher quality

Rosy with some of her Chin fabrics

making process. And, their creativity is more complicated, with more colors and more consistency in the patterns.” Indians, she notes, are also willing to pay much more for fabric – up to $60 – than Myanmar people, not due to wealth, but due to preference. Myanmar, on the other hand, prefer thinner and cheaper fabrics with which to make longyis. Rosy also walked me through the difference between Chin fabrics and other groups in Myanmar, beginning first with the choice of patterns.

It’s difficult to use the original ethnic designs to make products because, for example, one pattern is for Chin men only and even women are not allowed to use fabric for a top or longyi. pieces is attributed to their more advanced weaving techniques and wider availability of raw materials. “In Myanmar, we have to get thread, and everything is made in China, and it makes quite a big difference. In India, the availability of different cottons makes a significant difference in the fabric

“Chin fabrics have smaller patterns. In Kachin, the trademark is the diamond shape pattern, and for Karen, they will use lines on the bottom part of the longyi. Shan uses just lines, and then for Mon and Rakhine, they will use the cheik pattern, it’s kind of a floral pattern. The Burmese also use the cheik,

but the Burmese style cheik and Rakhine style cheik are different. Rosy is compiling ideas and wants to launch products in a few years time, “It’s difficult to use the original ethnic designs to make products because, for example, one pattern is for Chin men only and even women are not allowed to use fabric for a top or longyi. But if I use the fabric for a bag or canvas shoes, I am still Chin, and I will be blamed. I don’t want to change the uniqueness or rules of the tradition.” Rosy now takes international orders from the many Chin and Burmese who live abroad but still wear ethnic clothing. This makes up 50% to 70% of her profits. Working with her are two women who resell the fabric in Malaysia and the US, and she has arranged to make Burmese school bags with Chin fabric to sell in the US. “I have sent samples to [the buyer], and she’s still in the process of which fabric and which pattern to order for 50 bags.” With few importers of Chin fabric to central Myanmar and abroad, Rosy is carving out a space for herself among local and foreign customers, who use the fabrics in dramatically varied ways. g

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

34 BISTRONOMY Beef that will make you melt Kobe-Ya Japanese BBQ Restaurant By Nikita Black WHAT IT IS This Japanese restaurant specialises in top-quality Kobe beef barbecues. Delicate seafood and vegetable dishes are also available (and are included in the sets), yet the beef remains their unbeatable highlight. ATMOSPHERE Set in a house, this restaurant withholds private rooms for 2 to 20 people. Each table has its chrome exhaustion pipe to accommodate private grilling and a little call button to request service. The decoration is lean except for the wall of fame which proudly exhibits pictures of renowned personalities coming for diner at Kobe-Ya. RECOMMENDATION The Suma Set costs $68 which is a very high price unless you love your Kobe beef. It includes salads, appetisers, 4

different types of beef to be BBQed, seafood and vegies for grilling, soup, rice and dessert. These change daily according to supply of fresh products. A crackling charcoal grill was brought to the table and set under the pipe, and warmly waited for us to feed it delicacies to cook. The numerous dishes were placed all around it and the feast began. While some slices of beef sizzled, we tucked into the side dishes. The squid salad was full of fresh flavours of mixed marinated radish, carrot, miso, vinegar and a pinch of sugar. The vegetables of the day included seasoned soya spouts, kimchi and mixed greens with crunchy radish and vinegar. The owner explained how to grill the beef just right so not to overcook it and lose all the juice, tenderness and flavour. Their supreme class beef is in fact best enjoyed medium-rare. Sever-

al types of beef are provided including tender parts, lean cuts and fatty pieces. To my immense surprise, the slices of beef released more flavour than I even knew possible. FINAL THOUGHTS Beef lovers, meat lovers, this BBQ restaurant is a must try, but not cheap. Take a date or someone special there, as

it is truly a unique experience. They also have a wide selection of high-class Sakés, Sho Chu and wines. The lunch sets starts at $25. No 615 Marlar Street, off Pyay road, Kamayut township. (Near Thuka Kabar hospital) Opening Hours: 11am – 11pm Tel: 01 535 072

Otake Japanese Restaurant @ Kandawgyi Palace Hotel By Bob Percival WHAT IT IS Otake Japanese Restaurant is situated in the tranquil lakeside setting of Kandawgyi Palace Hotel. Opened early this year, it serves first-class Japanese cuisine at a reasonable price. Otake’s biggest asset is Chef Nanko San who brings a wealth of knowledge and creativity to the kitchen. He has twenty years experience in prestigious Japanese restaurants in Bangkok. His specialty is sashimi, sushi and grilled fish. His skills are very evident in the quality dishes on offer. ATMOSPHERE The atmosphere in Otake is intimate and tranquil. The walls and floors are lined with fresh pinewood. You can smell the scent of pine as you enter, making everything feel fresh and light, as it should be when eating Japanese

food. We chose to dine in the private Mizuumi Room, which would comfortably seat (Western style) around ten people. Here also, there is pinewood, and a large wooden table to eat at, plus comfortable cushioned seats. It’s a room where you can be as loud or as quiet as you like. RECOMMENDATIONS The extensive menu gives you a choice of zensai (edamame, chukka wakame), mushimono, sunomono (takano, wakami), salada (potato, yasai, tuna), nimono, yakimono (gyoza), yakitori (toriniku, teba, sunagimo, kawa, ademono (tempura), oshokuji (soba, don), makimono, teppanyaki, shashimi, nigiri sushi, and shabu shabu. There is also a set lunch menu, with a bento set of tempura, sashimi, saba shio and chawan mushi (US$25). We started with some

tastes. We finished with the signature tempura dish, Tempura Mori (US$14), with brilliantly light batter coating the tender moist shrimp and fresh vegetable. This was the highlight dish. The warm saki, drank heartily, was the perfect accompaniment to the dishes.

beautifully fresh Edamame (US$4) and Miso, then ordered the Salmon Nigiri Maguro Sashimi (US$5), Nigiri Salmon Sashimi (US$6), Salmon Shashimi (US13), and Maguro Sashimi ($US13). The rice was delicate and rich in flavour. The sashimi is flown in from Japan and is of the highest quality. The salmon and tuna were perfect, melting in the mouth with their own distinctive

FINAL THOUGHTS Otake serves quality Japanese cuisine prepared by the very skillful and creative Chef Nanko San. The ambience of Otake is peaceful and comforting, something rare in Yangon eateries. A great place for a business lunch, or intimate dinner with friends. Kandawgyi Palace Hotel, Kan Yeik Thar Road, Yangon Tel: 01 559 548 Opening Hours: 11.00 AM – 3.30 PM and 6.00 PM – 10.30 PM

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

IN FOCUS 35

Roskilde, Northern Europe's largest music festival InDepth speaks with Raymond, frontman for the popular rock band The Idiots, and up-and-coming DJ Valerie, about their recent trip to Denmark’s Roskilde music festival.

oskilde Festival started in 1971 by two high school students and has become the largest music festival in Northern Europe. This year, it reached reached its highest attendance with 130,000 festival-goers.

Denmark (Tuborg) has been a festival partner since 1992 and one recent initiative was the campaign, “Drink with Respect”, which encouraged festival-goers towards a responsible enjoyment of beer.

The festival is big, with an overall area comparable to 350 football fields. It has a total of 8 music stages, and more than 175 artists from more than 30 countries will played live for their fans. Another impressive aspect of Roskilde is that it is one of the world's best examples of volunteer-driven initiatives. The festival is run by about 50 full-time employees and 32,000 volunteers. Beyond that, all profits are donated to charity and humanitarian purposes. The festival also has a long tradition in environmental sustainability; 3,000 sustainable trash cans and 10 large recycling stations can be found at the festival. Carlsberg

Tuborg’s passion for Music, drives the brand to partner with artists, events and festivals that also share this strong devotion. The brand encourages ‘living in the moment’ and being open to new experiences. As part of the Funbassador program, Tuborg invited the popular rock band frontman Raymond, from The Idiots, and up-and-coming DJ Valerie, to go to the Roskilde festival in Copenhagen. “We wanted to inspire and introduce them to our love for music, and give them the opportunity to see firsthand what a Tuborg experience really means. We thought the best way to show them was to send them to the

birthplace of Tuborg to enjoy the iconic Roskilde Festival along with hundreds of thousands of music lovers,” says Phyo Min Soe, Tuborg’s Brand Manager. “What I liked about the Roskilde Festival was the level of detail that covered all aspects of the logistics and event management skills. For example, your wristband will prompt you 30 min before your favorite band reaches the stage, your mobile app will show the location of the food courts, public washrooms, convenience stores, the different festival zones, among other cool things. It makes it very easy for you to have the best possible festival experience, based on what you love. I really hope one day we can hold this kind of festival in Myanmar”, says Raymond. “At one point, I even jammed backstage with renowned Danish music icon, Mikkel

h ttps:// www.f aceb o o k . c o m / Tub o rg M y a n m a r

Lentz, from the band Michael Learns to Rock. If you told me a year ago that this would happen, I wouldn’t have believed it,” continues Raymond. “One of my best experiences was to see the Little Mermaid, which was commissioned by the son of Carlsberg’s founder,” says Valerie. “At the festival, there was also an art zone, which included graffiti, that was really inspiring. Just like DJing, it’s a new urban art form that allows us to express our creativity. Some of these artists were extremely talented. As for what impressed me the most, I would say that as a DJ, I thought the music setups and the spectacular lineups were the best. I can’t wait for a festival like this to come to Myanmar. I can see myself on stage Djing and getting the crowd excited and enjoying life.” g

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

36 LEISURE

First Thai Spa

Authentic Thai Massage By Nikita Black WHAT IT IS If you are in search of a happy ending, skip your turn. This spa is suitable for families, couples and individuals who need to release body tension and relax. First Thai Spa has 2 outlets in Pearl Condo (another new one is opening soon!) and a bigger one at 7 mile and all masseuse are certified from the Thai Ministry of Health. ATMOSPHERE A good indicator of the quality of a spa is the feeling you get as you walk in: if your stress level drops as you pass the door, then you know it is going to be worthwhile. Entering First Thai Spa is like that. The scents of lemongrass, jasmine and other essential oils overpower the city buzz and prepare you for a journey to wellbeing. RECOMMENDATION After filling out a worksheet to clarify my needs, the friendly staff showed me to my massage mattress which was separated from other cabins by heavy curtains. Once you get changed into the comfortable clothes provided, you are invited to lay down and cover up with a towel. The lights get dimmed and the massage begins. The 2 hour Traditional Massage (38,000Ks) consists in applying pressure to specific pressure points in order to release tensions of the tendons, muscles and lymphatic system. It can almost hurt if you are not used to it, so don’t hesitate to ask for “soft” when required. The masseuse works her way from feet to face to balance the energy in the body. Towards the end, a steaming towel with lemongrass essential oil is applied to your frown and temples makes you realise you are actually feeling so much better. For this second part of the treatment, traditional and medicinal herbs from Thailand are packed into fabric and heated up before being pressed along your back to relax muscles deep down. Note that if you have sensitive skin the fabric may feel too hot so just let the masseuse know beforehand. FINAL THOUGHTS To release knots and deep tissue pain in the shoulders (long office hours), back, knees and feet (long standing hours) go for the traditional Thai massage or Ayurveda. If you just want to relax I would suggest the oil massage, the herbal compression treatments or even a scrub! PRICES $15 – $65 Pearl Condo B 1st Floor, Room F-44 Kabaaye Pagoda Road Yangon Tel: 09 974 588 425, 09 974 588 425

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

IN FOCUS 37

Music for Myanmar Charity Concert For the hearing-impaired and deaf children of the Mary Chapman School, music represents the promise of a better education.

he fund-raising event Music for Myanmar Charity Concert, set for 10th October at the Chatrium Grand Ballroom, will contribute to the aim of the school, which is to give these children a fulfilling education in a safe and dedicated environment.

Over 17-year-olds can learn different crafts, including sewing, dressmaking, knitting, embroidery, how to use the PC, book-binding, cooking and Shiatsu massage. The school is also set to open a beauty parlour at the beginning of August.

“There were hundreds of places and situations in need but the school really needs help,” said Pamela McCourt Francescone, founder of the charity Link for Aid that is organising the event in partnership with Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon.

“Last year, Music for Myanmar supported the training of young deaf children who had just left the school to become chefs. Six of them are now working in 5-star kitchens in Yangon,” said Ms McCourt Francescone. Despite these positive developments, more needs to be done. More and more families are asking the school to accept their children, putting a strain on the school’s facilities.

Now in its second year, the musical evening will see Matteo Setti, one of Italy’s best-loved contemporary singers, make his Asian debut. He will be joined by famed Myanmar singer Chan Chan.

“People donate books, but we don’t have a library because the previous one had to be converted into a class. We don’t have a place to keep these books,” said Daw Nyunt Nyunt Thein.

Mary Chapman School for the Deaf is the oldest school for the deaf and hearing-impaired in Myanmar, and one of only three in the country. It receives students from the age of 6 to 18 years so that they may be given lessons in English, Maths, Burmese, History and Geography in a way that matches their learning skills.

“I want to build a library. Books are essential because they nurture children. And the more we nurture them, the more they grow.

But there is more than just lessons that these children need, as Principal Daw Nyunt Nyunt Thein explained. “You cannot see happiness in some children because they are not wanted in their family. I ask the teachers to show them love. Make them feel loved.”

Children from the Mary Chapman School

Daw Nyunt Nyunt Thein emphasises that dealing with the psychology of the child is the most important aspect that they need to consider in the classroom.

Mary Chapman School for the Deaf was founded in 1920 by a British lady, Ms Mary Chapman. She had travelled to Myanmar to train teachers in international sign language.

“These are secluded children. I always remember one child, Zaw Myint Moe, who never smiled. He was always very angry; one day he even punched the plywood covering an electric plug. “I found out that his parents were fighting in front of him at home. He was also left home alone with his dad, who was often drinking. He must have felt

frightened and ashamed. “After three years, his smile got wider and he is participating in classroom activities.”

Upon her arrival, however, she was faced by what seemed an insurmountable difficulty, Burmese beliefs. It was believed that having a deaf child meant that bad actions had taken place in the previous life. The parents of the child, especially the mother, were blamed and the child was kept hidden from the public eye. Mary Chapman ended up establishing

a school for the development of the deaf. Starting from just one student, the school now counts 381 pupils. “Now thinking is changing,” explained Daw Nyunt Nyunt Thein. The school was honoured by President U Thein Sein as an Outstanding Social School last year. The government has also rectified the disability law, making it easier for the differently-abled to be employed. On their part, companies have started to integrated corporate social responsibility in their business. For this reason, Mary Chapman School for the Deaf has included vocational training in its curriculum, making it easier for young deaf adults to find a job.

Please go along and enjoy and support this wonderful event. Music can change the lives of hearing impaired and deaf children. Tickets cost US$65 and can be purchased by calling +95 0154450, +95 962 536 8540, or pre-booked at tickets@musicformyanmar.com Also included is an elegant Italian dinner with free-flow wines, beers and whiskey, an auction and a raffle with spectacular prizes. 10% of the funds raised by this charity evening will go towards rebuilding facilities for children in the recently flooded areas. g

Please visit http://www.musicformyanmar.com and http://linkforaid.org. Connect with Music for Myanmar and Link for Aid on Facebook.

38 HOROSCOPE

MYANMORE InDepth Magazine / September 2015

Myanmar

Horoscope Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing has got the degree of Science majoring in mathematics from Yangon University. At the present time, he is writing articles and prediction horoscopes in monthly magazines and weekly journals published in Myanmar. Astrologer, philosopher, traditional medicine practitioner and author Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing looks to the celestial bodies to predict what lies ahead this month focusing on love and business. You may be unfamiliar with the Myanmar zodiac so allow me to offer a brief introduction. In Myanmar astrology, star signs are determined by which day you were born on. Each sign represents its own day, cardinal (utmost importance) direction, planet (celestial body) and animal.

SUNDAY

Religious Time God is not present in idols. Your feelings are your god. The soul is your temple. If you control your feelings and minds according to God's will, God will protect you. Your fortune will be great and excellent. You will be ready to help poor people. Love – Your sweetheart will be sagacious, wise, diligent, and elegant. You will be lucky with love affairs. Business –You will apply affective distribution methods to promote your market. You will understand all market conditions. You will make a friend with an important businessman. You will travel on both local and international trips. Lucky numbers –1.2.7 Lucky colour – Green

MONDAY

Brave Time You will complain and fear a difficult problem. As soon as the fear approaches near, you should attack, and destroy it. You should face this fear and difficult problem. If you are brave, you will have success in everything. To be wealthy and healthy, you should donate medicine to elder persons. Love – You will be sad in regards tolove affairs. Your lover can be selfish and cunning. You will not find true love.

Business – You will get experience and new ideas from your partners. You will try a new product. Success or failure will depend on your action. During this month, you will purchase a motor vehicle or machine for business use. Lucky numbers – 3.6.9.1 Lucky colour – Violet

THURSDAY

Intellectual Time You will be intellectual and tolerant. However, you will be face a downfall because you will desire materials goods. Education is the best friend. An educated person is respected everywhere. If you will be respected for your education, you will beat your rival. Love – Your love affair will be excellent. You will make a choice. Your decision for love will be right. Business – Once you start working on something, don't be afraid of failure and don't abandon it. People who work sincerely are the happiest. When you start new work, don't be afraid of failure. Lucky numbers – 1.2.6.0 Lucky colour – Blue

FRIDAY TUESDAY

Fun-loving Time You will be fun loving. You will be a happy person. You will not care for serious matters. You should not to be too honest. Straight trees are cut first and honest people are screwed first. If you will be sharp, everything will be ok. Love – You lover will be stubborn. Sometimes you lover and you will quarrel with each other. You can't have a satisfying love affair. You will take time to understand your sweetheart. Business – You should learn from the mistakes of others. You will hear good news in regards to purchasing and selling raw materials. Lucky numbers –1.4.9.6 Lucky colour – Light Colour

Willpower Time You will be conservative, methodical, conscientious, chauvinistic, and a born leader. You will conquer everything because of willpower. You will discuss with family members about repairing and painting the home. You will study about latest technology and foreign languages. You will make new friends. Your life style will be smart. Love – You lover will be imaginative, funloving, and artistic. Your love story will smooth and popular. Your friends will admire your love affair. Business – You will be expert in business management. You will get an advantage from a partnership business. You will export and import international trade. Lucky numbers – 1.4.2.7 Lucky colour – Pink

WEDNESDAY

SATURDAY

Diligent Time You will be diligent, independent, placid, and friendly. Sometimes you can be selfish and cunning. If you will have a sympathetic heart, you will have harmony in your environment. To be healthy and wealthy, you will follow God's will and do good deeds. Love – You will be hardworking and concentrate on your job, so that you will forget a love affair. Your heart will be beating quietly for love. Business – Before you start your new project, you should ask yourself two questions. What the results might be and will I be successful. Only then you should think deeply and find satisfactory answers to these questions, go ahead. Lucky numbers – 3.2.5.8 Lucky colours – Yellow, Gold

Imaginative Time You will be imaginative, charming, generous, quick-tempered, and opportunistic. You should avoid being quick-tempered, and you will be more and more wealthy and healthy. Quick temper or anger will start something stupid and only end remorse. During this month, you will travel sightseeing trips. You will get valuable present from one of family members. Love – Your sweet heart will be affectionate, intellectual and polite. Your society will accept your love story. Your will be very, very lucky for love. Business – You will gain benefit from investment of monetary, land and building. You will realise market theory. You will always concentrate market condition. Lucky numbers – 2.5.8.0 Lucky colour – Bright colour Tetkatho Soe Moe Naing has practiced astrology and Burmese traditional medicine for 40 years. Contact: 09 501 2 767

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L’OPERA ITALIAN RESTAURANT AND BAR - 10% off the A La Carte bill (not valid for set menu, business lunch and promotions) - 10% off “Romantic” packages (for couples) - Valid everyday, for cash payment only, for up to 8 people.

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BUY YOUR MYANMORE CARD HERE! MYANMORE Office - 1st Floor, Annex Bld, Strand Hotel, 92 Strand Rd, Kyauktada Tsp | 01-375680 50TH STREET BAR - 9/13, 50th Street, Botahtaung Township | 01-397 060 Balance Fitness (Avenue 64 Hotel) - 64 (G), Kyaik Wine Pagoda Road,Yangon | 01 656 916 Monument Bookstore - 150, Dhamazedi Road, Bahan Township Inya Day Spa - 16/2, Inya Road | 01537907 Padonmar Restaurant - No.105/107, Kha-Yae-Bin Road, Dagon Township, Yangon - Between Pyi Daung Su Yeik Tha (Halpin Road) and Manawhari Road/ Ahlone Road. - Tel/Fax : +95 1 538895, +95 9 73029973, 73108606 Orchid Hotel - 91, Anawrahta Road, Pazundaung Township, Yangon | 01-399930, 01-704740 Happy Footprints - No.498, Thein Phyu Road, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Township, Yangon | 01 381862