Mountain View Voice 07.15.2011 - Section 1

Page 16

8FFLFOE MANTRA

Continued from page 15

HEATHER LEE

Mantra’s lamb lollipops are rubbed with green chilies, and come on cinnamon sticks.

menu offers an array of options. Steamed mussels masala ($8.95) was a near-overflowing bowl of black bivalves blanketed in a thick sauce of tamarind, fennel and coconut. The masala, a blend of spices, gave the dish a delicious piquancy. I thought the crispy greens ($4.95) terrific. Arugula and spinach leaves had been lightly battered, deep-fried and piled high on a small platter. The batter was a tad thicker than a tempura batter and suited the leaves perfectly. The dish came with a tasty tamarind chutney. The Chat Chat fried popovers ($4.95) were golf ball-sized and stuffed with potato and chickpeas and topped with tamarind and mint chutneys. Dhawan told me this is considered street food in India. The day boat scallops ($11.95) had been perfectly seared and retained their meaty juiciness. The scallops were set on a tangy sauce of pink peppercorns, fennel, cauliflower puree and caviar. The mollusks nearly melted on the tongue. The lamb lollipops ($9.95) were

fun to eat and the heartiest of the small-plate offerings. Ground lamb was rolled into balls and rubbed with green chilies. The sticks of the lollipops were cinnamon sticks. Tamarind-andmushroom chutney accompanied. Large plates are offered in two sizes, full or as half orders. The half orders are larger than small plates, which is somewhat confusing. With full orders there is plenty to share; half orders you might want to keep for yourself. The methi pork chops ($11.95 half, $19.95 full) were marinated Porterhouse (center-cut) chops. A good portion of dill potatoes accompanied. Garlic and fenugreek were used in the marinade. The chops were juicy, fork-tender and spicy but not pungent enough to detract from the tasty meat. Fenugreek is a savory, slightly bitter herb that is available as leaves, seeds or as a spice. Methi refers to seeds. Mixed seafood curry (($9.95/$15.95) was aromatic, zesty, poached seafood: mostly salmon, scallops and shrimp, in a light coconut curry that was snappy enough to be remembered. Paneer ravioli (one size-$15.95) was a giant pastry puff stuffed

with paneer cheese, cauliflower, mushrooms, spinach and cumin. Paneer is a fresh-made, non-melting curd cheese made without rennet, the coagulating agent. The serving was generous and the flavors intriguing. Cumin added an unexpected punch. Mantra has relaxed its beverage menus as well. Cocktails and beer are available by the carafe and pitcher. The wine menu retains its strength with more than two-dozen selections available by the glass. Full bottles are dominated by California and French selections. Since my last review in 2006, the composition of the list has been revised in favor of more affordable, less prestigious, yet very drinkable labels. For dessert, the house-made kulfi ($2.49) was a generous silky scoop of Indian ice cream flavored with cardamom over marinated cherries and blackberries. The trio of custards ($5.95) included a tea-infused chocolate brulee that was surprisingly astringent, a lush lick-the-spoon pot de creme, and a lip-smacking coconut caramel. A grand conclusion to a flavor-packed meal. The lunch buffet ($10.95) offers

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