8FFLFOE MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE
â– RESTAURANT REVIEW â– MOVIE TIMES â– BEST BETS FOR ENTERTAINMENT
N R E S TA U R A N T R E V I E W
Variety and variables DESPITE LAPSES, UNIVERSITY CAFE IN PALO ALTO KEEPS ‘EM COMING BACK By Dale F. Bentson
T
KIMIHIRO HOSHINO
Salmon risotto is a popular menu item at University Cafe. It is also restaurant manager Lynn Kuo’s recommendation.
DINNER BY THE MOVIES AT SHORELINE’S
Pizzeria Venti
here is variety and there are variables at University Cafe in downtown Palo Alto. The menu is lengthy, focusing on brunch, espresso bar fare, sandwiches and salads by day, sandwiches and entrees later on. Service and quality can be as shifting as the spring breezes. My first visit did not start off well. I was told by a waiter to sit anywhere, so I chose a small table near the front. After I seated myself, hung my jacket, unfurled the napkin and sipped the water, another waiter came by and told me I had to move to make room for a larger party.
On subsequent visits, service by the wait staff was generally punctual but the kitchen was often too slow or excessively fast in producing orders. When the cafe was busy, I got the impression that the kitchen was overwhelmed, backing up orders and leaving customers glancing anxiously at their watches. Early one evening, however, the entrees appeared when we were not halfway through our appetizers. The server was intent on plunking the plates atop our first course but was shooed off by a waiter from across the room. Open since 1994, not much Continued on next page
The History Pasta Alla Norma This dish is named for the main character in the Vincenzo Bellini opera “Normaâ€?. Most because “ccââ€? in the people actually call this dish Pasta ccâ Norma. This is incorrect beca Sicilian dialect means “withâ€?, thereby making Norma an ingredien ingredient, such as “Pasta with zucchiniâ€?, which is deďŹ nitely not the case. This dish was dedicated Maestro Bellini and dis and the composer Pasta a la Norma or Pasta Norma-style, refers speciďŹ cally to this dish who was from Catania. The authenticity of this classic dish is beholden to the quality behol and abundance of the sauce, and above all, to the salted ricotta. This Th is a non-optional, essential ingredient of the dish. If you cannot ďŹ nd Ricotta Salata, yyou must move far f you live li in i barbarism! b b i l fforgive i me‌I am nothing hi without good pasta. away, for Please From our kitchen to yours. Giulia Grisi as Norma in 1831
erious s a t s a e our p k a t e n italy w i g n i n trai
Buon appetito! Chef Marco Salvi, Executive Chef
Pasta Alla Norma Tomato sauce-from scratch @ $.5 :64# 8+4)+0 1.+8' 1+. @ %.18'5 %*122'& )#4.+% @ 1< %#0 %475*'& 61/#61'5 @ (4'5* $#5+. .'#8'5 6140 +061 5/#.. 2+'%'5 @ 5#.6 #0& 2'22'4 SautĂŠ garlic in olive oil until translucent. Add tomatoes and basil. Stir and cook for 10 minutes. Salt/pepper to taste. May be made ahead and refrigerated or use a good quality jarred sauce
@ $.5 :64# 8+4)+0 1.+8' 1+. @ 2170&5 '))2.#06 2''.'& #0& %76 +061 1â&#x20AC;? cubes @ 170%'5 %72 4+%166# 5#.#6# )4#6'& @ 4'5* $#5+. .'#8'5 6140 $; *#0& @ +0%* %475*'& 4'& %*+.+ 2'22'4 5.+%'& !14 dried ďŹ&#x201A;akes] @ #.6 @ 2170& 52#)*'66+
To cook: In a large skillet over medium high heat, fry the eggplant cubes and red
1390 Pear Ave., Mountain View (650) 254-1120 www.mvpizzeriaventi.com 14
â&#x2013; MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE â&#x2013; APRIL 16, 2010
Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday
pepper ďŹ&#x201A;akes in olive oil until eggplant begins to soften and caramelize. Drain off any excess oil and add tomato sauce and reduce to medium heat Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the spaghetti al dente, drain retaining some of the pasta water, and transfer to a large bowl. Check sauce and add pasta water if sauce appears too dry. Pour sauce over the spaghetti and toss with the salted ricotta and torn basil leaves Serve with grated Pecorino