Volume 1 No. 2 ‘09 $5.00
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•Fish •Chuck Patterson
The Oldest Surf City | SUPing around the World
THIS SPREAD Steve Benedict tucks in and lets nature take its course. Photo: Lance Smith.
ON THE COVER Intimidating yet intriguing, spontaneous and serene. Waves fascinate us in ways we can hardly explain. Main Photo: Surfshot; secondary photos: Keith Novosel.
CORRECTION The image on the last cover of Jackson Close was miscredited. The fine photog behind the lens was last issue's "Lensman," Lance Smith. Our apologies.
Fish For Thought
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It’s arguably one of the most popular shapes of all-time, but it’s in a state of evolution. What’s new? By Greg Loehr.
Surf Cities: St. Augustine, Fla.
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FEATURES
Beyond being the true “Oldest City”, the waves and ambiance make this an ideal destination for the venturing surfer. By Chris Tincher.
Chuck Patterson: Perpetual Motion
30 38
No beach out of reach. Yeah, that’s the Navy’s motto, but when you have an SUP, it applies as well. So grab your paddle and see the world. By Margareta Engstrom.
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Want to meet your favorite shaper face-to-face? Feel like pawing at boards minus the “Do Not Touch” sign? We’ve got the place for you. By Paul Holmes.
Lens(wo)man: Nikki Brooks
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The Santa Cruz surf photographer with the feminine touch … and some of the best shots to come out of the area in a while.
Artisan: Patrick Parker
Call it his flavor of the month, but Patterson has been the man in SUP as of late. But there’s quite a bit to the man behind the muscle. By Chasen Marshall.
Searching For Water
Expos For Surfers
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Young, personable and colorful (personality and his artwork) Patrick Parker has a knack for the surreal. Perfect waves all the time.
Board Buyers Guide
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It’s been too long. You know it has. You’ve done too many ding repairs and waxed plenty of cracks. Face it, you need a new board. Pick one.
Editor’sNote
It’s Time to Open Your Eyes I’m an only child, and given that, it is widely accepted that I don’t play well with others. Oh sure, my school days did teach me many social skills, but there are still those things that I don’t like to share, or at least it’s hard for me to share. The other day I paddled out to one of my local breaks and the usual crew of misfits, con artists, and a few other friends too, were all there swapping BS on all subjects when an old buddy that many of us hadn’t seen for some time slid into position on a brand new ride. It was one of the composite epoxies now available, and 11 feet long. We all had a field day with smartass remarks about his new boat, did it have a motor, and just how far outside was he going to sit. We were all having a good laugh when someone commented on the other new arrival, a stand-up paddle surfer. Well, that changed the whole mood of the pack and the grumbling started. Seems our little band of merry men felt like the paddler had an unfair advantage. Board was too big, he could sit too far outside and the paddle gave him a power advantage too. So the consensus was, it just wasn’t right! Of course, no one said a word to our buddy with the 11-footer. At this point I had to say something, so I casually pointed out that the paddle guys had as much right to the waves as we did, (remember I’m that Only Child), and that we needed him. Well, you’d of thought I just confessed to sleeping with all their wives! If looks could kill… Now only one other of our crew makes his living from the surf market, so I had at least one other supportive voice during the discussion that followed. My point was that today the SUP market has in effect come to the rescue of our industry, much the same as what snowboards did for the ski market. I pointed out, wouldn’t it be a bummer, if tomorrow one of us were to run over to our local surf shop only to find that it was closed and even more frightful that we could no longer find boards from our favorite shaper. At this point my other buddy, who works for a local glass shop, finally piped in that stand-up was probably largely responsible for keeping them going, and that he had friends in other board manufacturing shops that had been laid off due to a lack of work. It wasn’t long before we all could see that the stand-up guy wasn’t there to take all the waves. He was actually fairly new to stand-up and our sport, so we respectfully suggested that he move down a ways. No one screamed at him, we just suggested a few wave rules, and in this case it all worked out well. So for me, it’s fairly simple, we need these stand-up riders to help heal our industry and sport. The boards and paddles are only a small part of what these sales represent to all of us. Remember, product production has a long reach and could affect many of us far beyond the sharing and riding of waves. So if you haven’t tried stand-up, give it a go, it’s fun. And isn’t that what it’s supposed to be all about, F-U-N? Good Waves,
Publisher 6
Volume 1 No.2 Michael Anthony Aguirre Publisher, Editor-in-Chief Chasen Marshall Editor Paul West Contributing Editor John Ker Photo Editor John Slavin Contributing Photo Editor John Bass Art Director Nikki Brooks, Chris Grant, Moonwalker, Keith Novosel, Lance Smith Contributing Photographers Jennifer Flanigan, Paul Holmes, Brian King, Greg Loehr, Ned McMahon Contributing Writers Copyright 2009 morSURF Magazine, Oceanside, CA Printed in the U.S.A. July, 2009, Volume 1, No. 2 morSURF Magazine is published six times per year by One Last Run Publications, 3460 Marron Road, suite 103-375, Oceanside, CA 92056. Periodicals Postage paid at Carlsbad, CA, and at additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to morSURF Magazine, 3460 Marron Road, Suite 103-375, Oceanside, CA 92056 morSURF Magazine’s Coverage and Distribution: Domestic subscriptions are available at $25 for (6 issues), $40 for (18 issues). Call us at (760) 803-2003 or Fax your order to (760) 314-0049. For foreign subscriptions contact info@morsurf.com for rates. Contributions: morSURF Magazine is not responsible for unsolicited contributions of any type. Unless otherwise agreed in writing, morSURF Magazine retains all rights on material published in morSURF Magazine for a period of six months after publication and reprint rights after that period expires. Change of address: We need six to eight weeks to change your address. Send your new address along with your subscription label to morSURF Magazine, 3460 Marron Road, Suite 103-375, Oceanside, CA 92056 or call (760) 803-2003. IMPORTANT NOTICE: The post office will not forward copies. We are not responsible for replacing undelivered copies due to lack of or late notification of address change. Advertising in morSURF Magazine: To advertise in morSURF Magazine please contact our Advertising Department at 3460 Marron Road, Suite 103-375, Oceanside, CA 92056 or call us at (760) 803-2003 or send us an email at info@morsurf.com.
The Wild West No More?
News
Along with the State Parks Goes California's Adventurous Image By Brian King
"No Access!" Well, not quite. San O would probably survive the budget-based cuts. But 80% of the state parks would not.
And while that doesn’t sound particularly
government and put into a general fund.
potential closing of 220 out of 279
intimidating, those familiar with our state
Then the politicking starts. State parks have
California State Parks as part of
beaches know that CA State Permanent
to battle with education, transportation,
balancing California’s budget. That’s
Lifeguards are actually Peace Officers who
Medicaid, corrections and public assistance
80% of the state parks. While closing
are armed, badged and sworn to uphold
for state dollars. Understand this, state parks
these venues right as summer comes
the law, just like Park Rangers. In this case,
are officially in the “All/Other” category
into full swing sounds like science-fiction,
it would mean kicking people out of
against these politically sensitive money pits.
overspending and budget deficits, as
closed parks whether they like it or not.
That’s why we’re fighting for 1/3 of 1% of the
well as out-and-out fiscal irresponsibility
Ranger or Lifeguard, either way we’re
state’s budget to keep our parks open.
over the past few decades have put us
outmatched and out of the park.
You may have heard about the
in just such a position.
Many skeptics have brought up the
In times like these, there will be cuts. We need to cut fat from our state budget and
potential cost of such an action. Google
Gov. Schwarzenegger seems to be the only
park” entail? The unpleasant truth is that
search “California state parks closure” if
one that understands this. Money that isn’t
it essentially makes a park into a private
you’re short on data and statistics. The jist is
there cannot continue to be spent. Luckily
piece of the State’s property. For the
this: tourism suffers, small local economies
for CA State Parks, with a little bit of
adventurous this sounds kind of cool. No
suffer, California’s image as wild and free
reorganization and a re-allotment of
services, no problem. However, in our
suffers, and most important of all, we suffer.
resources, lots of money is there. Properly
So, what exactly does “closure of a
sue-happy state, the government has
But there are some parks that can
distributing money to those who make
liability issues from potential injury and
actually facilitate their own budgets, that
money and limiting “services” – while still
from unequal park access, among a
is, if they are allowed. This is part of what’s
maintaining public access – at a park that
range of others. This means that park
being proposed. For instance, Huntington
can’t break even, that’s just a sound
closure actually means a closed park.
State Beach is not slated for closure. It
business decision. Not the kind that got us
makes more than its yearly budget and
into this mess. If sound business instead of
be able to easily sneak on to the
could hypothetically be kept open of its
bureaucratic BS was applied to state parks
property and have the land and waves
own accord just from parking fees. Sadly,
we could have a real money maker on our
to yourself. State parks would still be
what happens to park revenues has
hands, one that would keep many of our
employing a skeleton crew of
become a huge part of the problem. All
parks open indefinitely and help alleviate
permanent lifeguards and/or Rangers.
state park revenue is collected by the
our budget mess by not adding to it.
This doesn't mean that you would
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World Tour Mid-point Update Negative commentary on the downward spiral of longboarding has been shelved, as a ray of hope was shined on the sport just before press time. It’s still not WCT-esque, but the World Longboard Tour is a go in ’09. While the WCT continues its as-expected financial ascension, the news for the WLT was a shocking one after the rumor mill had spit out nothing but negatives since the conclusion of the ’08 season at San Onofre. Here’s the rundown on how half the contest calendar has played out. The WCT continues to thrive and purses continue to escalate into the absurd (relatively speaking). Despite a three-headed Aussie ratings race, the ’09 competitive deficiencies of Kelly Slater and the ever-unpopular Brazilian set to run (mid-contest at press time), the webcast ratings and sponsorship dollars continue to flow for the shortboard scene. It’s been a somewhat disappointing start to the year with dismal conditions for the majority of the days run, and some painfully long layoffs. Nonetheless, Joel Parkinson sits comfortably atop the ratings after back-to-back wins in Australia to lead off the year, but a poor showing at Teahupoo kept Taj Burrow and Mick Fanning within striking distance. For the longboarders, there’s good news and bad news. Halfway through the year, the rumor mill has finally coughed up two destinations for the two-stop tour: Japan and the Maldives, with Oxbow once again picking up the bill. Both have the potential to be stellar locations, but will certainly test the financial commitment of those who are invited. While the WLT talks have developed positively, there has been a major pockmark left on the competition stateside. For the first time in over 10 years, the U.S. Open of Surfing at Huntington Beach Pier will run without a longboard division. That was one of the biggest purses outside the WLT and definitely the one that offered the greatest amount of exposure. In the world of women’s competitive surfing, both the shortboard and longboard tours appear to be moving forward in typical fashion. Stephanie Gilmore sits atop the women’s WCT, with a third consecutive title in her sights, while the women longboarders will once again return to Biarritz for the single-stop world championships in July. There seem to be enticing story lines in each competitive division: can Parko avoid late-season jitters? Will Gilmore hold on for the three-peat? Who’ll reign supreme at Biarritz’s tricky beachbreak? Will everyone show up for the men’s WLT? Stay tuned, it’s sure to be an interesting second half of the competitive calendar. -CM Stay posted at www.aspworldtour.com.
In Cyberspace, Surfers are Set Free By Chasen Marshall whoisjob Contest surfing really is a travesty. A disaster on par with Katrina. So goes the psychobabble unleashed on the world courtesy of the 21st century’s Mr. Pipeline, Jamie O’Brien. And this is O’Brien when he isn’t even ranting. Within the cyber worlds of Twitter, Facebook, blogs, and so on, a number of surf folk have found their equal to the soapbox. Unlike in the pages of surf mags or post-contest dribble, the digital medium is unveiling a completely different side to the athletes who we knew as nothing more than supreme talents, sponsor stickers and safe answers. Now it’s unfiltered, unadulterated analysis, insights and bitching, flowing through their fingers and into the wide-open world of the Internet. joelparko I'm going to wake occy up by bashing to fry pans together right now!!! I could have a black eye for my heat ! Along with the other millions of registered users, surfers have taken Twitter by storm. Whether they’re displaying new video clips on their blogs, posting down-time photos on Facebook, or bored out of their mind and Tweeting relentlessly, a number of the pros have become fully accessible and in some cases, pretty damn entertaining. If you were ever curious about how a sponsored surfer spends their time when he or she isn’t posing for ads, jet-setting around the world for contests or kissing babies, logging on to your social networking site may be just the answer. Some are hilarious (both of the Hobgoods), others quite articulate and witty (O’Brien, Parko), a few are in desperate need of grammar check (the Hobgoods, once again) and then those who just completely disappoint (come on Kelly, you must have more to say). But it’s not just the pros passing time between swells and contest heats, as a big part of the industry has taken a liking to the cost-free marketing opportunities that the medium allows. Everyone from The Ryde clothing to Surfrider Foundation CEO Jim Moriarty to Aussie legend Ian Cairns take time away from real life and offer some spur of the moment thought that they deem Tweet-able and share with their “followers.”
A Few More to Follow: @jimmoriarty @hobgoods (CJ and Damien) @joelparko @derekrielly @mick_fanning
Blogs worth reading:
jimmoriarty It may sound odd but kelly's new boards remind me of what Joel's been riding. Not that Joel... I'm talking about Joel Tudor. While most of the mags, clothing brands, and company-types tend to be rather dry, the surfers surely impress. It’s the perfect outlet for the guys who like to be seen and heard. However, it’s only a matter of time before one of ‘em gets burned or knocks the wrong corporate party. Until then, you’d be wise to sign in and try to survive your way through a 20-entry Jamie O rant on the mediocrity of surf journalists or magnificence of Stab Magazines’ Derek Rielly’s genitalia. hobgoods CJ/Went to the barber,asked to clean up around the ears maybe a little fade.kinda looks kontorted hipster style pretty stoked.
christianwach.blogspot.com Postsurf.com (Lewis Samuels) Nride.blogspot.com (Steve Thomas) surf-knot.blogspot.com (Tyler Warren)
whoisjob I've gotta get out of Bali. Been here a bit too long. I feel the darkness creeping in. DJ Quik says rap music is filled with shock and awe. whoisjob There is such man-made symmetry. I'm slipping into a very zen-like state. I'm sitting in suta baddha konasana pose.
grassisgreenerproject.blogspot.com blog.thegoodss.com (Brothers Hobgood)
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whoisjob On the boat. Very nice satellite wi-fi. Watching swell blobs on the ocean. Satellite by Dave Matthews makes me very homicidal. whoisjob Thank you Tahiti. Thank you for your diversionary beauty and magnetic appeal. Thank you for sponging up surfers with little imagination.
Review
Fresh Fruit For Rotten Vegetables By Steve Cleveland 39 Minutes, www.surfcraftmedia What. Just. Happened. That’s about the mindset the first two minutes of Steve Cleveland’s highlyanticipated new flick puts you in. It’s a major case of sensory overload that sets the tone for the remainder of the uptempo compilation that is Fresh Fruit For Rotten Vegetables. Longboards. Fish. Shortboards. Alaias. Men. Women. Fiji. Australia. Malibu. Barrels. Noserides. Airs. Brian Anderson dancing. And a whole lot more. Cleveland had high expectation after the first project, and he’s succeeded in presenting something just as entertaining and notably different in its approach. A success in every sense of the word. But don’t take my word for it: at the International Surf Film Festival in St.-Jean-de-Luz, France, Cleveland’s film was honored with the equivalent of the People’s Choice award. Do yourself a favor and check it out before your next paddle out, and see where it takes you. -CM
The Living Curl By Jamie Budge www.thelivingcurl.com Pop some corn, ice down a case of your favorite brew and call all your buddies, you’re in-store for a ride down memory lane. The Living Curl debuted in the mid60s, then sat on a shelf for over 40 years waiting for today’s modern technology to bring it back from the dead. From the moment you push play, you’re hurled back in time to the day of Civic Center surf movie magic, complete with parlor music and period voice over. Balsa Bill said it right; “It’s like having Surfer Magazine circa 1961-1964 come to life.” Dora, Fain, Weber, August, Nuuhiwa, Carroll, Martinson, they’re all there surfing crisp, small Southern California waves, from Oceanside to Malibu, Leo Carrillo, Secos to “C” Street in Ventura and a couple short segments at now gone Stanley’s Dinner and Hollywood-by-the-Sea and many more. If you lived this era, this movie is a MUST have. -MA
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By Greg Loehr Goin fishin’. Ahh yes, in the grimy mush of my
which was soon being surfed on. By the 1972 World
Central Florida reality this double meaning phrase was
Contest in San Diego, Jim Blears and David Nuuhiwa
something magical no matter which connotation you
made it to the finals while riding fishes. Blears won a
were referring to. Imagine coming home hot and beat
forever disputed victory, while David’s favorite fish was
from a dirty day’s work, picking up the Fish and fishing
stolen off the beach, broken in half and hung from the
pole, heading down to the beach for a quick few
Ocean Beach Pier with “Good Luck Dave” spray painted
waves and rinse (and possibly a dinner catch) without
on the bottom.
even a surf check beforehand. Okay, yeah, I could do this with virtually any board, but the fish was actually the
Clyde Beatty then designed a racier version called the Rocket Fish and rode that at the 1974 U.S.
one surfboard design that made it fun. With the fish it’s
Championships. This influenced Reno Abellira, who built
nearly always at least rideable and more often than
and rode one at the 1976 Coca-Cola Surfabout contest
not, it’s fun. Arguably, since its inception, this design
in Sydney, which in turn influenced Mark Richards, who
concept has offered more in the way of quality surfable
went on to win four consecutive world championships on
days than any other surfboard.
different versions of the fish. From 1977 until the mid –’80s the Mark Richard’s fish was the dominant board on the
Inception And whom can we thank for the basic design concept? None other than the U.S. Navy. During and immediately after WWII the Navy was investigating the possibility of a one-man landing craft and a 1946 thesis, Naval Architecture of Planing Hulls by Lindsay Lord, laid out the basic theory. This was soon picked up and modified into an actual surfboard by the well-known (and well-read) legend, Bob Simmons. Simmons’ deeply researched 1948 twin-fin model was the culmination of Mr. Lord’s research. Simmons’ trial and error R&D contained nearly all of the fish’s modern-day aspects, which is essentially a short, maneuverable, low drag, planning hull. The remainder of this short Fish history lesson is: Bear Mirandon of Surfboards La Jolla picked up the concept and in 1967 came out with the Superboard, which included the first split-tail. This was seen by thenkneeboarder Steve Lis, who made a kneeboard version,
Not much has really changed since the advent of the Fish. In the boards' early days, Mike Tabeling (above, Photo: Larry Pope) showed its versatility, and today, guys like Sean Mattison (opposite, Photo: Lance Smith) continue to push the boards' limits. 17
market, finally being replaced by the Simon Anderson trifin set-up. After nearly a decade underground the fish reemerged in the mid-’90s to take its rightful place as the world’s ultimate small wave performance vehicle. The fun was back! And while the design isn’t endorsed and ridden in ASP World Tour competition, in the real world this design fits more surfers of varying height, weight and ability for the average ridden wave than any other design. Its continued enormous, scarcely promoted popularity should be of no surprise to anyone. Bottom line: it simply gets the job done better than any other performance design on more days, for more surfers, and has for over a half-century.
What makes it work? What the Navy was looking for was a fast, maneuverable, lightweight landing craft which would get GI’s to the beach with quick, stealthy efficiency. Hmm, seems logical enough: implement lots of planing area and use a fin at each corner for controlled maneuverability. The concept of having fins at the corners? Kind of like sticking a toe over the rail, which was not really a foreign concept in pre mid-twentieth century surfdom. The split tail, added by Mirandon in ‘67 took some planing area out from behind the fins, which provided more control and added a bit of drive in the process. Looks sexier, too. Lis compacted the package, Beatty expanded the design’s range and the
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Mark Richards edition featured a deep vee which solved some twin-fin tracking problems. Four fins came along in the mid-’80s, first conceptualized and brought to market by Pete Dooley of Natural Art Surfboards, and then Will Jobson added the advanced hydrodynamics of the Twinser in the early ‘90s. In all the years since a lot has gone on with this design and there are certainly many new concepts and theories. But the basic concept hasn’t changed from the day the Navy first published it.
Fish today Essentially you have the original Navy/Simmons/Lis design camp and the Beatty/Richards camp, and everything else pretty much falls between these. Back when I was building boards I wanted a simple way of marketing the scale. So I called a Lis Fish a “Full Fish” and a Beatty Fish a “1/4 Fish.” I then dropped in a 1/2 Fish and a 3/4 between these (they were easily far enough apart to warrant this). This filled the market line, which gave me four models which covered most of the fish range. Well, I thought so, but there are so many variants Fun for all ages. (Clockwise from top) On Malibu's long, slopey walls, the fish can work its enjoyment wonders. Photo: Surf-shot; the classic fish; former Aussie pro Prue Jeffries with nowhere left to go. Photo: Chris Grant/JettyGirl.com. 19
of fish today that knowing what you’re looking at without
A bit racier. I rode this design with a hard wing (MR style)
a scorecard is difficult if not impossible. So, below … a
about 8 inches from the tail. I liked riding this in the winter
scorecard, of sorts. Measurements are approximations.
in a full suit. Was quicker in better waves than the full fish
There are many variations of fish so use these as
and offered a bit better float than the narrower ones
generalizations.
with the extra wetsuit weight. This got me into waves
Full Fish
easier and got me down the line earlier. Planed easy and Length
Width
Nose
Tail
worked in a wide variety of conditions. I could ride this
5’6” to 6’6”+
20.5” to 21.5”
16” to 17”
16” to 17”
pretty short; 6’6” to 6’10” usually for my 190 lbs. This one was also very good as a four fin.
nothing to push one of these, and maneuvers in practically nothing. While this is an excellent small wave board I’ve seen these ripped on in huge waves (guys like
1/2 Fish
Easiest to get planing, but ridden shortest. Takes almost Length
Width
Nose
Tail
5’8” to 7’0”+
19” to 19.75”
13” to 14”
15” to 15.5”
Mike Tabeling and Jackie Grayson had many believers, I’m one of them). Very good all-around. Was and is my
I loved my half fishes. Also rode this winged like the 3/4. I
favorite for summers in Florida and California. In fact, I
loved all of these fish designs, but for me the half was the
didn’t ride anything else from May until hurricane season
all-around board that I rode in good small to
kicked in. This design was difficult for people with small
medium surf. So many good days on these – nice, quick
feet because of the width. With size 11’s I didn’t have a
and fast. Good in hollow conditions, where the wider
problem though. At 190 lbs. I rode 6’2” to 6’6”, but I have
versions tend to lack in handling. I usually put a back box
ridden up to an 8 footer in this design, which was way
into these so I could use it as a convertible. A 3” back fin
too big for me. Shaq would have ripped on it, though.
and it would hold in good size surf and tube ride in the
3/4 Fish
hollows. As the waves went to mush I could still ride it as a
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Length
Width
Nose
Tail
5’8” to 6’8”+
19.75” to 20.5”
14.5” to 15.5”
15.5” to 16”
twin. Also rode this design as a four-fin and a twinser. Rode very good no matter which fin set-up I had.
(Above) Not your dad's fish anymore. Harley Ingleby likes his fish above and below the lipline. Photo: Moonwalker; (below) forget coasting through turns or around sections, the new fish are about performance. Photo: Surf-shot; (opposite) R&D never gets old. Donald Takayama and his test pilot, Prue Jeffries; Photo: Chris Grant/JettyGirl.com.
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1/4 Fish
Length
Width
Nose
Tail
5’10” to 7’2”+
18.5” to 19”
11.5” to 12.5”
14” to 14.5”
another which was 8’, which I made really light. Took that one to Cape Hatteras and got clean waves off the south jetty. Rode amazing. Came home and rode it on an epic day at Monster Hole with only me and my nephew, Arly,
This fish design was essentially a slightly beefed regular
out. Thing ripped. Rode this mostly with a small 3-inch
shortboard with a swallow wing or a straight swallowtail.
back fin. Finally broke it in half. Made another, 6’8” with a
Usually I rode this just a couple inches shorter than a
twinser set-up. That one ripped too. Former U.S. Masters
straight high-performance and it does have many of the
Champ Robert Spratt talked me out of it in a weak
same attributes with just a tad more planing, float and
moment one day at my factory. Wish I still had that one. I
hold. I actually had a nine-footer one time; would have
think that was his favorite board.
been a great board for Hulk Hogan (you know, he did surf). It still rode okay and maneuvered better than a standard longboard in sizeable surf when I wasn’t looking to noseride anyway. I rode it in some hurricane surf. I had 22
Longboard Fish Can’t forget these. The filled out tail of a Mal Fish (that’s Aussie slang for a midrange “Malibu” shape) or a
full-on longboard fish can rip. Recently I’ve seen these ridden with four-fin set-up’s mostly. The extra planing area in the tail lends itself to bigger guys mostly, and are generally used in small to medium surf. Now take a bigger guy like Ben Aipa for instance, put him in some nice head-high town surf on one of these beauties, stand back and enjoy. Ben’s in his 60’s and still rips like he did 40 years ago. Watching his kind of power on a large four fin fish in clean Hawaiian reef surf is a treat. Makes one appreciate how broad the term fish can be and what can be done by a truly seasoned master. Watch this for one session and you’ll be down at Ben’s shop ordering one up, I guarantee. Now as you can see from the scorecard the fish design is a very versatile item offering numerous experiences. Given its wide variety and even wider general appeal, it’s no wonder that nearly every hardcore surfer in this world owns at least one version of this amazing creature. Now I’m not saying that you should all run down to your local boardsmith today and order up but … wait a minute ... it’s summer ... what are you guys waiting for? Guess I’m saying exactly that. Stop wasting those marvelous, warm water, summertime swells. Go fishin’.
Go classic, sleak, sporty or pink. (Spread) Minimal drag off the split tail means more speed for Matt Chojnacki. Photo: Keith Novosel; (Inset) Surfer/writer/model Jenni Flanigan doing the rock walk with her fusion fish.
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A Traditionalist’s Haven By Chris Tincher • Photography by Rob Williams St. Augustine, Fla. is the nation’s oldest city. Founded by a group of scurvy-ridden Spaniards, the land was said to be home to a mythical fountain whose waters guaranteed eternal youth. Although these brave conquistadors were more than likely met with a mean case of dysentery and swarms of the biggest blood-sucking insects any European had ever seen, eventually a new settlement was formed in 1565. Now, over 440 years later, this colony forced upon the native inhabitants by a band of misguided conquerors, is a thriving antimetropolis for artists, alternative lifestylists and surfers.
Size doesn't always matter. Chris Tincher finds an early morning speed pocket. 24
City: St. Augustine Population: 13,800 Founded: 1565 Best Breaks: St. Augustine Pier, A Street When to Come: Spring is usually the most consistent, but June 1 – Nov. 1 is Hurricane season, which often generates the most memorable swells. Ideal Swell Directions: East Southeast with light west winds Surf Shops: Aqua East, Blue Sky, Pit, Surf Station Random Factoid: The first real Thanksgiving was actually celebrated in St. Augustine in 1565, not at Plymouth Rock in 1621. The meal consisted of bean soup and fish and was enjoyed by Spanish explorers and Timucua Indians.
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While Florida has never been famous for pumping swells or, let’s face it, world-class surf, in St. Augustine a small, tight knit community of surfers has managed to establish a thriving wave riding scene. While brainwashed, closed-minded surf zombies have yet to embrace the joys of the log or stand-up paddleboard, those in the know are pumped on the Oldest City’s summertime offerings. Most mornings are spent in front of the St. Augustine Pier, where surfers slide across perfectly formed knee- to waist-high peelers, ideal for curling ten little piggies all the way to the sand. The pier normally has a loggable wave during the summers and offers a free oversized dirt parking lot, ideal for pre-surf fat chewing, wave checks and general bro downs. This lot ends with a cement walkway built on top of a 12-foot tall rock seawall perpendicular to the pier. The rocks can be a pain during a higher tide, but they keep summertime swimmers and the many surf schools operating in the area away from the spot. The concrete walkway is also the perch of choice for local photographers who snap shots of local gliders enjoying some summertime slidden treasure. The loggers of St. Augustine are a diverse cross-section of nine to fivers who pursue log riding as an altruistic venture. From five-star chefs to Army reserve soldiers, the local boys are not shy about curling toes over a fiberglass walkway. If history has assigned any significant theme to our town it would be this, “We did it first but weren’t concerned enough to become all that famous for it.” Take the Autreys for example: a family that has made surfboard construction the family economic mainstay for three generations. The Autrey’s opened their shop pre-1940 and became the first surfing family on the nation’s First Coast. Josh, the youngest surf champion-
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Old meets new. (Clockwise from left) Still some open space to take a walk and clear your mind; chocolate milk tubes come to St. Augustine Pier; wayward evening surfers need not panic; where readin’, ritin’, and rithmatic happened.
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Whether in Noosa, Malibu or St. Augustine, Fla., a well-executed, picture-perfect noseride (above) is means for attention; when the surf goes flat or your board is busted, there’s plenty to see and do in town (below) to keep you busy and your mind off the peelers you’re without.
turned-wave-sled-designer from the Autrey clan, has won just about every major professional and amateur longboard shindig ever hosted in the Sunshine State. But like the city in which he resides, Josh prefers to remain low key. He lets his surfing speak for itself, whether curling toes or lacerating lips. Josh spends his contest earnings chasing massive Pacific barrels rather than wasting his time begging corporate surfdom for their support. Currently the head shaper for the family-run label, Warrior Surfboards, and his own brand, Josh Autrey surfboards, Josh has carved his surfing niche according to his own terms. The same pioneering spirit which led the Autreys to take up their tools and turn lifeless hunks of balsa or, as time wore on, foam into functional wave riding vessels, led Surf Station founder and three-time East Coast Longboard Champion, Tory Strange, to open the Surf Station in 1984. I know the thought of a typical tee-shirt slinging, surfboard barren, flipflop emporium makes most surfers cringe, but Surf Station is different. The shop’s main focus is the surf craft. Their selection ranges from the largest Channel Island selection in the Southeast to a bevy of locally shaped and California imported logs from the likes of Anderson, Hobie, and Takyama. Surf Station has the St. Augustine wave rider covered from the doldrums of summertime mush burgers to the height of hurricane season. Surf Station has also been home to young, up and coming pros, journalists and filmmakers. Uber-talented Picaresque cinematographer and editor, Dustin Miller’s first paying film gig was shooting and editing webisodes for the shop. Renowned surf photographer, Jimmy Wilson, was a long time Surf Station employee. Life-long shop team riders Gabe Kling and Zander Morton have put St. Augustine on the map with their
respective world-class talent. Talented pros, surf media members and customers alike have got to eat. Not to worry, parked in the front lot of the Surf Station is a small unassuming white trailer, from which wafts the aroma of Nalu’s Tropical Takeout, a St. Augustine surfer’s mainstay. Jerry Morgan, a St. Augustine local, opened Nalu’s in 2003. Jerry spent several years in Hawaii before deciding to move home, start a family and crank out delicious grinds. On Saturdays in the summertime, Nalu’s line begins to swell with throngs of locals and tourists alike waiting to stand in front of the small, mesh wire screen ordering window and sample delicious fish tacos, gut busting burritos and, of course, Jerry’s highly coveted, secret recipe Baja sauce. As is the case with many modern beach scenes, surfing and art are intertwined in the Oldest City. During the first Friday of every month, as the sun sets, local gallery owners open their doors for the St. Augustine Art Walk. King Street, located in historic downtown, features galleries showcasing the visually stimulating offerings of resident artists. Heading west along King Street, visual art begins to bleed together with local bands jamming out tunes. The crowded sidewalks are littered with human-sized beehives abuzz with local citizenry sipping various beverages in search of art, music, and, above all else, a good time. As the night fades, the hive dissipates as inhabitants depart to quench their thirst at any of a number of favorite beachside watering holes: the British Pub, Dunes Cracker House and Panama Hattie’s, among others. St. Augustine is known as the Oldest City, but the vibrant art and surf scene are not reflective of the moniker. St. Augustine is a town full of talented surfers and individuals content with life and proud of the scene that the village has spent centuries creating.
Perpetual Motion By Chasen Marshall During my time as editor of a now defunct surf
I crossed paths with the death-wish SUPer not long
magazine, Stand-Up Paddleboarding (SUP) was an
after. While covering a contest at San Onofre, a familiar
afterthought in the general surf consciousness. There
sight caught my attention. A competitor with an
were rumors circulating around the message boards and
Incredible Hulk-like back was paddling out into the lineup
surf shops that a new, fledgling discipline was infiltrating
for the first-of-its-kind SUP division. While the other three
the surf scene. Guys were seen standing on their boards
guys in the heat struggled to stay topside while waiting
with a paddle in hand, stroking into waves and
for waves, The Hulk was handling his bulky board in a
escalating the tension in already over-packed lineups.
more radical manner than the world-class longboarders
These “sweepers” (the oft used derogatory term for
who’d been carving the place apart all morning. He
SUPers) began to increase in numbers, but typically in the
dominated his graceful, cross-stepping fellow finalists that
version of clumsy, bumbling beginners. The sport
afternoon, and from then on I knew who Chuck
appeared limited in its performance abilities, and though
Patterson was.
the evolution was in its infantile stage, appeared destined to go nowhere. Then one day, photos arrived in my inbox from a
SUPing is a sport? As SUP has continued to grow in popularity and
destination I’d just visited, Puerto Escondido, Mexico.
societal acceptance, there’s been an outpouring of
What I saw seemed completely irrational and borderline
sponsor support, shaper interest (for some it’s been a
ludicrous. A burly bloke named Chuck was paddling a
savior!) and event planning. While longboarding
board nearly 27 inches wide and 10 feet long into 25-
wallows in futility, SUP has a race, contest or demo
foot pits that only the tow-in guys had been attempting.
going on nearly every weekend in and around Southern
I gawked and passed them around the office, but the
California. And the events aren’t just beachfront, as SUP
allure quickly faded and they were eventually shelved
has managed to cross the societal divide, gaining
in the “Last Wave” folder, which was home to the odd
popularity in locations as far as 100 to 1,000 miles from
and entertaining.
the nearest beachbreak.
Don't let the game face (spread) deceive you, Patterson is a gentle giant. Photo: Chasen Marshall. (Inset) On the water is where work and play collide.
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(Above) Big waves, big boards, big dog, big truck. Photo: Chasen Marshall; (Right) Kiteboardinduced wave-face makeover. Photo: Joe McBride.
What this all means for someone like Chuck Patterson — who’s positioned himself as one of the premiere SUP racers and surfers, and an ambassador for the sport — is a cluster of training schedules, relatively strict dieting practices (see food, eat food!) and the occasional tough decision on competition priorities. But for Patterson, SUP is just another notch on the belt, something new and exciting that temporarily quells his unwavering desire to keep pushing himself. He’s mastered the balancing act. The question isn’t whether he’ll succeed, it’s how long will it keep his interest? And like everything else he’s attempted, he’s just that much better than the average person.
Is he a science-fiction character who came to life? The first time we met face to face, I wasn’t consumed by his shadow and his hand wasn’t the size of a baseball mitt when we shook. That rock character from The Fantastic Four, not Chuck’s alter ego either. Good guess though. He had come straight from outrigger practice. By this point I knew that he was a multi sport athlete, but the outrigging was news to me. Apparently, during his 32
last trip to the Islands, fellow waterman extraordinaire
spouting “Over the Hill” propaganda, Patterson
Dave Kalama recommended that Chuck give it a try.
continues to defy the odds. In the NBA, the critics and
And just two months into the sport, Chuck was already
announcers talk about how the middle years are
training with Team California.
when experience and the “mental game” take over,
Days after that first meeting, I watched as he made
while the physical tools fade away. Apparently this
easy work of guys 15 years his junior in an 8-mile SUP
cruel development courtesy of Father Time doesn’t
race, half of which was run in a 12 m.p.h. headwind. As
apply to Patterson.
his board hit the waterline, with 30 yards separating him
“I’ve created a lifestyle that I’m addicted to. I
from the finish line, Chuck bull-rushed past a friendly rival
don’t know any different, and I really wouldn’t have it
with a quickness that belied his large frame.
any other way,” he explained.
A weeks time later, he was bagging up the boards and paddles for a trip to Tahiti in pursuit of the forecasted power pole sized south swell slated to hit Teahupoo. Maybe it doesn’t matter, but this is probably a good time to mention that he just turned 40. At an age when the Hallmark greeting cards start
The guy is on steroids, right? Patterson really is a unique human specimen. At 6’2”, 215 lbs., he’s a solid sized guy, not exactly Andre the Giant, but his success has stemmed from more than size and strength. Physically, he’s blessed with a
33
metabolism that a woman with chocolate cravings
spend a large portion of the season on the slopes at
would die for and the physique of an MMA
Lake Tahoe, with Chuck quickly advancing beyond the
heavyweight. And just as important, mentally, he has
black diamond runs. Soon enough he was navigating
some of his nuclear physicist father’s smarts, teamed
uncharted portions of the mountain, slicing between
with the gung-ho approach of Evil Knievel. It should
trees and flying off ledges into mounds of fresh powder.
suffice to say that he’s built to be a bit different. A portion of his temperament can be attributed to his upbringing. Due to the nature of his father’s work,
decided to give surfing a go. Having developed an
Patterson lived a portion of his pre-teen years in
indelible sense of balance while growing up on skis and
Germany and the other in the United States. He was
snowboards, the transition to a surfboard proved
fluent in a foreign tongue and a proficient skier before
relatively simple. Several mornings a week, his alarm
he ever encountered the rigors of the English language
would sound at 4 a.m. and he’d head out into the still
and the American education system.
dark, crisp morning with a skateboard beneath his feet
Relocating to Northern California when Chuck was
and a surfboard under his arm and count on the public
6, the family laid its roots in the East Bay Area, which
transportation system to get him to his surf break of
presented an ideal situation for the advanced athlete
choice in a timely manner.
Chuck was becoming. About this time, Scott Schmidt
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About the same time he discovered the allure of launching himself off of or “hucking” cliffs, Chuck
“Ocean Beach is a pretty heavy, solid beachbreak,
was the idol of every impressionable skiing adolescent
nothing like we have [in Southern California]. It takes big
and snowboarding was just beginning to make its strides
swell and it was probably the best learning grounds for
into the snow market. Every winter the family would
me,” Chuck said. “We didn’t have surf reports back then,
Confidence is key. Whether out in front of the pack (left, Photo: Tom Servais/Rainbow Sandals) or airdropping at Ghost Trees (spread, Photo: Tim Ditty), it all comes down to faith in oneself.
so I’d just go and sometimes it’d be rainy, windy, shitty and I’d still surf with my buddies. It was really good teaching for me. After surfing Ocean Beach, I could pretty much surf anywhere.” From 15 years old and on, snow and surf were permanently engrained and intertwined in Patterson’s life. While the snow/surf split is somewhat typical with many Californians, the path Chuck led was rather extraordinary. In fact, among the list of pursuits lies a timeline of snow and surf performance developments: • Competed in ski and snowboard on the Extreme Tour, traveling all over the contiguous U.S., Europe and Alaska. • While living on Maui, competed on and excelled in the pro windsurf scene. • Bored with windsurfing, Chuck turned to kiteboarding while the sport was still in its infantile stages. • Starting towing into super-sized waves long before the Billabong XXL and corporate sponsors dug their fangs into the sport. • In 1999, in the Lake Tahoe backcountry, he set a world record hucking a 142-foot cliff. • In 2008, he was invited to compete in the inaugural QuiksilverEdition Ku Ikaika at Makaha, making the semifinals and recording one of only two perfect 10 scores. While all the pursuits have been unique in their appeal and rewards, each was somehow directly linked to or adequately transitioned into whatever new avenue he found himself following. And SUP seems to be the culmination of all those years of extreme sports. Or the newest fad. 35
Wonder what the surgeon general would say about this — tempting fate at Puerto Escondido (right, Photo: Tim Ditty). Growing up skiing and hucking Squaw Valley helped pave the way for Patterson’s future in sports. (above, Photo: Hank DeVre).
Seriously, no steroids? While maintaining the balancing act and transitioning from one sport to the next, Chuck has seemingly perfected his training. Each sport seemed to further strengthen and refine the necessary muscles and attributes, which have been key factors to his successes. “It all kind of fed into one another, it was really pretty easy the way it all worked out,” he said. But as he entered into his early 30s, the accumulation of each sport’s respective physical toll began to take on prolonged effects. No longer were the multiple surf sessions or hours of skiing going to be enough. If he intended to have staying power, he’d have to commit himself in a manner he hadn’t previously considered.
do,” he said. “Being in the gym, going paddling, doing
Blessed genetics would need to be supplemented with
cardio, there’s a certain recipe of things I need to do
an intense fitness regime.
every week to keep myself going. But the nice thing is
“With stand-up and tow-surfing, having to take
whether doing outrigger training or mountain biking with
beatings, I really started thinking that going to the gym,
the boys, it’s not like we’re doing a light ride or paddle,
being conditioned to be slammed and come up laughing
everybody is pretty on top of it in whatever sport I may
was important to me because it could be life-threatening.
be doing, so it kind of sets me up for perfect training.”
So I train a lot now,” Patterson explained. Six times a week he’s in the gym, six times a week he’s
The training regime is complemented by a high calorie diet that would make most offensive linemen
in the water. Or swimming. Or mountain biking. Or paddling.
take notice. But instead of the football flab, Chuck
“I definitely know that if I didn’t train, I wouldn’t be
flaunts a linebacker version of Terrell Owens’ frame.
where I am right now. It’s a big part of what I do and I think it’s kept me grounded, and on top of what I need to 36
“My wife would like to kick my butt because I can eat whatever and it goes away the next day,” he joked.
Has the guy had his head checked out? Action junkie? Thrill seeker? Adrenaline addict? According to Chuck, none really apply.
it,” he admitted. Though his choices may seem foolish, he sees them as spending his time wisely. But the fear factor is part of the allure. The intestinal fortitude to try something that 99
While his peers may think conversely, Patterson
percent of the population would never consider is
makes it very clear that his wildman antics have always
motivation enough to keep pushing. High risk, high
been executed with the highest rate of survival in mind.
reward. The risks have taken their tolls, but mostly he’s
He’s still intent on testing his boundaries, but now that’s
scraped by mostly unscathed.
done with a few extra moments per decision. “I do definitely notice at times, especially skiing and hucking big cliffs, that I end up being a little more
“I’d say that I’ve been lucky, but if I were a cat who had 9 lives, I’d definitely have to say I’ve used up 5 or 6 of them,” Patterson said.
cautious, double-checking or triple-checking a couple things, where back in the day I would look once and hit
Continued on page 61 37
open lifetime is an a f o e c n e ri e p the ex n SUP. takes to have it t a th And maybe a ll . a e n s u e rt fo d o o Sometim eg eople and som mind, good p Engstrom By Margareta
ay seeing things w ater sports and w of ll ba l ta ys into a cr l before ast of Maui wel s like he’s looking n along the co ird Hamilton. It’ ow La bl to ing it be nd en ha to ere first se You really have u Bertin that w as him and Man w it r Fo . into towse el y. to seriously look before anyone o what it is toda e also the first int er w d i, ve au ol the M ev g on ur fin “Strapped” press holder on the sport of kites d American Ex the crew from d an r an rfe a su m y la er Ka Ev Dave aboration. He, along with oo need no el ness. ws and Teahup Ja at ts trol infused mad oi pl ex g a planet of pe nin surfing, and his aw sp s, gh hrou of these breakt planet is aware
Hard not keep from taking in the scenery when locked into such critical position. Ekolu Kalama, eyes wide open. 38
39
And last but far from least, he’s brought SUP to light.
However, SUP has shown me nothing but good times. I’ve
A sport which is just starting to bubble up as “the next
found myself immersed in an amazing flow of events,
big thing” and has the potential to cross pollinate way
caught up in the momentum of this ever-expanding
further into mainstream culture than people just wanting
sport, which seems to be sweeping the globe. And like
to ride waves.
the sport’s possibilities, my experiences have been
Despite the continued arguments over the place of SUPs, there are many high profile surfers who have tuned
extremely diverse. My first contact with the sport was in Western
into this unique mode of riding waves, with the surfing
Australia in 2007. A small photo shoot created a decent
media oscillating between positive and negative over
opportunity to take a long weekend off Uni. We drove
the emergence of SUP in the line-ups around the world.
down to Margaret River, where Scotty McKercher
There are two sides to the story and both are valid.
paddled out to one of the local breaks. No one had ever seen anything like this before (including myself), which triggered some humorous commentary on the beach. (Due to deadlines and lack of product, we actually used a longboard and a kayak paddle to get the shot, since we couldn’t wait for the real SUP board to come.) This is now quite some time ago, but feels like yesterday. So much has happened in such a short period of time and the sports evolution has been phenomenal. Our first real SUP trip went to the Maldives in August 2007. It was Starboard founder and keen surfer Svein Rasmussen, world windsurfing champion Scott McKercher, Gaute Kristianssen and me. Once again, people stared at us like we were from another planet. One by one the honeymooners came up asking about this new sport, thinking it was something that both of them could relate to. For us it was revolutionary, even if
40
Going places. (Clockwise from left) Birds-eye view of Teahupoo; not so easy to hail a cab with a 11' log on your head; when cabs won't do, trust your instincts; curious locals.
the level of our surfing wasn’t much to write home about at this stage. The novelty of already standing up, catching waves and racing down the line in crystal clear blue water was such a unique buzz. We were all frothing like a bunch of youngsters having their first party together, and that experience was the seed to motivate us to continue travelling and cultivate this newfound passion for the sport. We had another great year of exploration in 2008, on multiple levels. The design and development journey was
41
quite an exiting collaboration between Svein and Scotty’s extensive knowledge. And then half way through the year we added Ekolu Kalama to our team, who brought SUP to a whole new level for the team. We stubbornly dragged these boards around the world, constantly searching for new angles and contrasts in life. A stop over in New York on the way from Cabo Verde to Hawaii wasn’t thought out too well. I’m not much of a city person. I find my biggest glow connected to a simple life. Barefooted watching the sunsets while feeling the breeze on my face. Cruising around one of the world’s largest cities was quite a unique experience. The impression of a consumerist culture was quite overwhelming. But the biggest challenge seemed to be one that would be quite easy: getting ourselves into the water. Finding access to the water in early Spring was as much of a mission as walking from uptown to downtown without stopping anywhere along the way. The helping hand came from our hotel manager who found it pretty funny to see us carrying these surfboards around the streets. (As you could imagine not too many surfers’ check in to a hotel in Queens expecting access to the water.) People couldn’t help themselves from shouting, 42
(Above) The best means of transportation in Tokyo. (Top) The best way to avoid the traffic in Tokyo.
“How’s the surf looking today, any swell?!” The manager lent us his old van (which was held
growing up without anything in her life, trying out what it’s like to just play. Even though we couldn’t understand
together by one long strap) for our exploration. At
a single word of her language, we saw a sparkle in her
last we found a hole in the fence that was big
eyes. The little family (mother and younger sister) lived
enough to climb through, crossing a construction site
alone right on the beach, while the rest of the village
that led down to the waterfront and we could finally
people lived further inland due to fear of tsunamis.
go paddling. It still blows me away, that with all
We returned to Indonesia several times over the next
these people living there, it was still so difficult to find
few months and surfed a variety of waves. From the easily
access to the water. As if they forgot about the
accessible waves of Bali to the outer realms of Java, with
simple pleasure it can bring you.
it’s indeterminably long, bumpy tracks to reach, as the
Our travels took us from one extreme to another, which is kind of the beauty of SUP. It’s a
Indonesians called it, “the end of the world.” Soon after we found ourselves crossing another
great exploratory tool. At the other end of the
reality border, paddling around within the Arctic Circle in
spectrum was one of the purest, most untainted
the far north of Norway. The scenery was incredible and
places on Earth — Sumbawa, Indonesia. Once
nothing like we’ve ever experienced.
again, a last minute call on a good wave forecast
Scotty had seen a photo over a decade ago of this
put all other duties on hold to catch a flight to Bali. I
perfect left-hander. (Check out the Rip Curl ads with
had the privilege to travel with McKercher, Ekolu
snow on the beach. Same place.) Unfortunately Mother
and an ex-pat Aussie living in Indo, Peter. The wave
Nature didn’t oblige us and we never really scored the
itself was … intoxicating.
left-hander. I suppose it will remain a myth to us, yet we
There was no problem spending days on the
still felt fulfilled when we left. Even without seeing the
island. On one occasion while waiting for the mid
wave’s full potential, it’s one of the most radical
day breeze to drop we met a 6-year-old girl and let
landscapes I’ve ever visited.
her try out the SUP. It was amazing to see someone
As a photographer, timing is the most crucial part of Continued on page 60
One mistimed stroke is rewarded with mild hypothermia courtesy of Norway's bitter cold climate. 43
Board Makers take their Message to the Masses
Expos for Surfers
By Paul Holmes Photography by Chasen Marshall
annual surfing social scene, bringing together old friends and business associates from around the world,
Surf industry trade shows have been around since
recent times, as hardgoods (boards) ceded center stage
connecting manufacturers and retailers in the then
to softgoods (apparel) and skate competed with surf to
exploding market for all things surf. Over the years they
grab attention, the trade shows sometimes resembled
became a forum for new product releases from board
little more than noisy beer-fueled bro-downs of major
makers and accessories companies, high-profile
proportions. Increasingly, surfboard companies,
launches of new surfwear brands, the ultra-hype of
especially the smaller ones, felt marginalized in the mix.
established labels wanting to flaunt their dominance and
Show organizers, struggling to maintain the trade-only,
a twice-yearly opportunity for buyers and sellers to sit
business-oriented prime purpose of the events had to
down and—the primary objective—write orders.
tighten security to the level of being oppressive to keep
Along the way, trade shows also became a bi44
contemporary surf stars and living legends. In more
the early 1980s, when they played a key role in
out the party crashers, while exhibiting companies faced
See and be seen. (Clockwise from spread) Obama's newest idea from Green initiatives?; Any fin in any color; Sacred Craft is where the masses meet the masters; the original pursuers of the endless summer, Robert August (center) and Mike Hynson.
strict limits on how many staff, team riders and guests
brands of the day including Hobie, Bing, Dewey Weber,
they could bring in. Meanwhile, for simply curious civilian
Greg Noll, Gordon & Smith and more—surfboard makers,
surfers, along with wannabes and posers desperate to be
you’ll note, not apparel labels.
seen in the scene, trying to get access badges for the trade shows became almost a sport in its own right. All of which begged the question: if so many
In that spirit—a consumer surf expo with the focus on boards and surf-useful accessories (think fins, wetsuits, etc.)—Scott Bass launched “Sacred Craft” at the Del Mar
outside-industry people wanted so much to see inside
Fairgrounds in SoCal two years ago. Since then, he’s
the impenetrable windowless world of the trade shows,
staged two more; another at Del Mar last year, and a
why not give them expos of their own—surf industry
new franchise at the Ventura Fairgrounds in May 2009.
shows for consumers? And so began a new era. Well, not
Last year also saw a similar expo, “Boards and Waves,”
so new actually, since the very first consumer “surf expo”
staged by Dave Seehafer in Daytona Beach, Fla.
predated trade shows by some 20 years: the 1963 “Surf-
Seehafer plans a follow-up East Coast show for the
a-Rama” held in Santa Monica featuring all the big
Cocoa Beach area later this year, with dates to be 45
announced as soon as a suitable venue can be secured. The rebirth of consumer surf expos was propitious and timely. Since Clark Foam’s closing in December 2005, many surfers had been bombarded with an avalanche of unfamiliar options in equipment—new technologies, new materials, new marketing messages— much of which seemed to conflict with everything they thought they knew and understood. For them to be able to mix and mingle with manufacturers, to see and touch their latest designs, and to hear and learn more in faceto-face conversations with the actual shapers was exactly what this highly motivated and passionate group—buyers and sellers alike—wanted. What’s more, if a potential customer fell in love with a board, it could be bought, right there on the spot, albeit only at full retail price out of respect for local surf shops who might object to factory-direct discounting. Under any circumstances though, you can’t do that at a trade show. “The main idea was to put surfers in front of the manufacturers and for them to establish a relationship with the guy who shapes the boards,” said Sacred Craft’s Bass, who estimated total attendance of around 3,000 people at the most recent two-day show in Ventura. “It was not necessarily to drive on-site commerce.” SurfTech’s Randy French explained that his company hasn’t even been offering boards for sale. “For us it is strictly outreach in support of our dealers in the area, and also in support of our shapers who are representing their handmade polyester product at the shows,” he said, adding that his company initially was cautious about reaction to its presence among the mostly smaller artisan custom labels. “We were concerned that this was all in support of handcrafted, U.S.-made product, but we found that people were interested in our new technologies and techniques. For us it’s an endless job trying to explain to people exactly what we do and how we are unique because of our coalition of 65 shapers from around the world and that we don’t make any boards that don’t have a name shaper, someone who’s really perfected their craft.” French also observed that in an era when many younger surfers have never even seen how surfboards are made, it’s a valuable education to see shapers at work in the live “shape-offs” and witness how tools are used and “how it’s done.” World-renowned shaper Rusty Priesendorfer offered a similarly upbeat assessment: “It’s all about surfboards, the people who love them and the people who make them. For me, it’s fun rubbing elbows with other craftsman, and there are so many great ones out there, some of whom I wouldn’t even know about except for these shows. The trade shows still have their place in the bigger picture, especially for apparel and accessories.
Different strokes for different folks. (Top) Some prefer to share their craft the old fashioned way, while others prefer to divert from the sales pitch path. 46
Wood is all the rage. (Top) Dan Malloy demonstrates the concentration needed in setting the pattern of a redwood alaia; (bottom) Spirare Surfboards took the wood approach a different direction.
But these consumer shows put us board makers back in
shows but they do fulfill an obvious need that they can’t
touch with the end customer and I think that’s a trend
meet, and which might actually provide at least a partial
that’s going on. I like it, it feels good.”
respite from their party crasher problem. So far, at least,
The consumer shows won’t take the place of trade
everyone seems happy. 47
>
Lensmen
wo
Nikki Brooks
Though she’s a late-in-the-surf-photography-gamer, Nikki Brooks has been
quick to make inlays in the who’s hot, who’s not surf industry. Hailing from Santa Cruz county, Brooks actually found her surf photography sea legs during her schooling in La Jolla, Calif., shooting all-manual with a Minolta and from the water when should could bum a housing. “I knew right away that I wanted to be a surf photographer from the water,” Brooks said. “Now I live where the creek meets the sea and I like to surf, paddle, swim and play at the beach with my family every day, and I am very blessed!” A rising star in the surf photography scene (recently her photography was featured on Surfline.com), Brooks also applies her talents behind the lens to other subjects, including weddings, portraits, and documenting the eclectic scene in and around SC County.
Age: 31 Location: Capitola, CA Years Shooting: 10 years since schooled in photography, 6 in the pursuit as a surf photographer. Equipment: Canon, SPL and Dale Kobetich water housings Favorite Subjects: Surfing girls and guys, LB and SB. Documenting surf culture from an obscure point of view. Random Factoid: One of my pupils is slightly larger than the other. Website: www.nikkibrooksphotography.com 48
49
Artisan
Patrick Parker
He’s a relatively new face in the SoCal surf art scene, but Patrick Parker has
quickly made a name for himself. Using a vibrant colour palette to unveil his
stunning wavescapes and exotic locations, Parker’s art tickles the fantasy cells, leading to fits of mind-surfing that help when the swell charts disappoint. A surfer himself, his first-hand experience reverberates through the oval tubes, feathering lip lines and sets stacked three deep. At 27 years old, there’s still a well of creative reserves yet to be tapped and transferred to the canvas by the Torrance, Calif. resident. You’d be wise to stay updated and see what the guy comes up with next. You can find more of his work at patrickparkerart.com.
“Mellow Yellow” - digital
50
“Timeless Lines” - 36x18, acrylic on canvas
“Rays” - 20x16, acrylic on masonite
“In the Chord of G” - 24x18, charcoal on paper
“Curious Smiles” - 16x58, collage on mirror
“Northwest Wonderland” - 40x30, oil on canvas
51
There’s a sense of pride that comes with ownership. Whether it’s a home, car or rosemary bush, there’s fulfillment in knowing that it’s yours. In the current ailing (and slowly improving) economy, the major investments (planes, trains, automobiles) may be out of the question, but a smaller spending spree — say in the $750 to $1,500 range for a new board — may not be out of the question. In fact, you’d be doing your fellow citizens, shapers and shop owners a favor by “stimulating” the economy. So, don’t wait any longer. Figure out which board suits your style and implement your own Economic Stimulus Plan in the form of a new addition to the quiver. —CM
2010 Eliminator Length: 10’ Nose: 20” Width: 24.25” Tail: 8” Thickness: 3.25” Fin set-up: Single Box Greek has made some remarkable modifications to his popular 1960’s classic. A wider nose & tail coupled with Greek’s exclusive drop-rail design, the 2010 Eliminator, now available in a custom hand-shaped epoxy model, is a board to be reckoned with.
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The “SHORTY” Tuflite
The “SHORTY” Custom
Length: 8’ Nose: 20” Width: 24” Tail: 16.5” Thickness: 2.875” Fin set-up: 2+1
Length: 5’8” – 8’6” Nose: 18” - 20” Width: 22” – 24.5” Tail: 16.5” Thickness: 2.875” - 4.25” Fin set-up: Pro-Box + 1
The “SHORTY” by Surftech is available in an 8’, 2+1 model and is designed to work in waves from 2’ to 10’. Designed by the Greek to paddle like a longboard and surf like a shortboard
The hand-shaped “SHORTY” may be ridden as a Single Fin, Twin Fin, 2+1, a Quad or with all five fins, making it the most versatile surfboard on the market today. See ad, page 11.
Surfboards By The Greek 322 Main Street, Huntington Bch, CA 92648 Tel: 714-960-6672 • Fax: 714-536-1467 • Email: greeksta02@yahoo.com • www.surfboardsbythegreek.com
FARTKNOCKER
S-Winger
LSW
Length: 5’6” Nose: 16.5” Width: 20.75” Tail: 17” Thickness: 2.375” Fin set-up: Quad
Length: 6’8” Nose: 13.25” Width: 20.75” Tail: 15.5” Thickness: 2.75” Fin set-up: 5
Length: 9’ Nose: 18” Width: 22.5” Tail: 13” Thickness: 2.625” Fin set-up: 5
From the innermost bowels of the Stewart brain trust comes the ultimate air board. From 4’6” to 6’0”, the Fartknocker will boost you through that mushy poo surf so prevalent in the summer months.
Ask anyone who owns one; fast, loose, beveled, light, weird, S-Fin, fast, great paddler, scimitar, section maker, fast, Quad, thruster, sexy, S-rail, concave, different, fast, one of a kind. Exceptional cutbacks, did we mention Fast?
The LSW is our longboard answer to the overwhelming success of the S-Winger. Similar technology applied to a longer board provides a very quick, aggressive surfboard. The new standard in high-performance longboard surfing.
Stewart Surfboards 2102 S. El Camino Real, San Clemente, CA 92672 Tel: 800-265-8882 • Fax: 949-492-2344
• Email: info@stewartsurfboards.com • www.stewartsurfboards.com
Robert August Hyper-Fun
Surftech Dino Miranda
Takayama Alii IV
Length: 8’ Nose: 11.75” Width: 21.5” Tail: 14.5” Thickness: 2.750” Fin set-up: 2+1
Length: 9’ Nose: 18.625” Width: 22.875” Tail: 14.375” Thickness: 2.750” Fin set-up: 2+1
Length: 10’3” Nose: 20.5” Width: 27” Tail: 16.250” Thickness: 4” Fin set-up: 2+1
The Hyper-Fun Fish rips! Single wing swallow-tail with edgy rails make this board ultra responsive. The thickness flow makes wave catching embarrassingly easy! Built to last using Surftech’s superior Tuflite composite construction.
The Dino Miranda model is a blend of performance and all around fun! Slightly rolled entry with down rails and a wider nose make for great noseriding. Built to last using Surftech’s superior Tuftlite construction.
The most versatile SUP on the water. Noah Shimabukuro won the 2008 Puerto Escondido SUP contest on the 10’ 3” last year and won the Rainbow Sandals Dog Patch SUP contest on it in May 2009!! Also available in 10’7”, 11’ and 11’6”.
Surftech 2685 Mattison Lane, Santa Cruz, CA 95062 Tel: 831-479-4944 • Fax: 831-479-4949 • Email: info@surftech.com • www.surftech.com
53
SUP
Master Glide
Swallow Q
Length: 11’ Nose: Custom Width: 32” Tail: Custom Thickness: 5” Fin set-up: Single Box
Length: 9’8” Nose: 18.5” Width: 22.25” Tail: 16.5” Thickness: 3” Fin set-up: Single
Length: 8’ 8” Nose: 16.375” Width: 23” Tail: 17.375” Thickness: 3” Fin set-up: Quad, Glass on wood
Good flat water or small wave board. Spend the day on it and never get wet. This one has a vacuum-bagged Bamboo veneer deck and bottom. EPS core.
Noseride or glide, this is the one. Blended concave, extra tail rocker, keeps it fun. Order one! Each one hand-made in the U.S.A.
Fast and fun. Not a longboard, not a shortboard, just fun for a change. Best in 4’ +
Waterlines / Ernie Higgins Surfboards 7179 Construction Court, #A, San Diego, CA 92121 Tel: 858-635-9480 • Fax: 858-695-9428 • Email: waterlinesunlimited@yahoo.com • www.waterlinesunlimited.com
The Noserider Length: 10’ Nose: 19” Width: 23.5” Tail: 15” Thickness: 3.25” Fin set-up: Single or Tri This is a board that is designed for easy maneuverability and long lasting noserides. Features a concave nose for that extra lift which will make you look more like a pro every time you’re out.
54
Performance 3 Stringer
Hi-performance Mid-length
Length: 9’ Nose: 16” Width: 23” Tail: 14” Thickness: 3” Fin set-up: Single Box
Length: 8’ Nose: 17.375” Width: 22” Tail: 15” Thickness: 2.75” Fin set-up: Single or Tri
A great surfboard for pointbreaks and hollow beachbreaks. A nice down-the-line performance board for getting you out of tight situations.
This is for the guy that doesn’t really want a longboard, but wants that extra performance and turnability of a shorter board, with a little more float. Great in all wave conditions and will give you that extra edge on any day.
Terry Senate Surfboards 208 B Calle Los Molinos, San Clemente, CA 92672 Tel: 949-361-1740 • Email: terry@surfcamp.com • www.surfcamp.com
Superlight
SB 9’ 0”
Length: 9’ Nose: Custom Width: Custom Tail: Custom Thickness: Custom Fin set-up: Single
Length: 9’0” Nose: 18.5” Width: 23” Tail: 15” Thickness: 3” Fin set-up: Tri-Fin
The Superlight is a classic performance shape from the late ’60s. Its signature 2/3rds wedge stringer is not only stylish but functional too. Allowing positive flex for that lively feel. Dealer inquires call Craig Hollingsworth at 760-436-5956.
GLS soft surfboards are high quality boards available in sizes from 6’ to 12’. These surfboards are perfect for lifeguard rescue, junior lifeguards, surf schools, rental and retail programs. All GLS products are American made.
Hansen Surfboards 1105 South Coast Hwy 101,Encinitas, CA 92024 Tel: 760-753-6595 • Email: craigh4@cox.net www.hansensurf.com • www.hollingsworthsurf.com
Stand-up Paddle Length: 10’ – 12’ Nose: 20” Width: 30” Tail: 18” Thickness: 4.25” Fin set-up: Tri Fin GLS soft stand-up paddleboards are built for stand-up surfing and flat water paddling. These versatile boards are perfect for retail, rentals and all-around fun. Natural rockers foiled decks, tucked rails and a handle for easy carrying.
GLS Surf Inc. 214 Via El Centro, Oceanside, CA 92058 Tel: 760-966-0446 • Fax: 760-966-0449 • Email: glssurf@att.net • www.glssurf.com
Traditional Fish
Retro Single
Retro Red-Fin
Length: 5’ 8” Nose: 17.50” Width: 22” Tail: 17.50” Thickness: 2.625” Fin set-up: Lokbox twin fin
Length: 7’ 6” Nose: 13” Width: 20.50” Tail: 12” Thickness: 2.875” Fin set-up: Single fin box with fin
Length: 9’6” Nose: 15.50” Width: 22” Tail: 15” Thickness: 3.125” Fin set-up: Single fin box with fin
The retro single fin is designed for big, drawn out bottom turns, fast trimming and setting up for a barrel. Clean and stylish. You can’t help but surf it like you traveled back in time.
Our most progressive ‘60s design; replicated for the “old school” at heart. 50/50 rails fade into 60/40. Glides just like a hot knife through butter: 1 1/4” + two 5/8” cedar stringers, glassing 8 oz volan.
Forged in the ‘70s design revolution, the “traditional fish” was the first fully functional multi-fin surfboard. Super fast, turns on a dime with Lokbox or wood glass-on keel fins. Check it out at Hansens in Encinitas.
Gordon and Smith Surfboards 4901 Morena Blvd. Suite #1003, San Diego, CA 92117 Tel: 858-581-3045 • Fax: 858-581-9049 • Email: boards@gordonandsmith.com • www.gordonandsmithcustom.com
55
Magic SUP Length: 10’ Nose: N/A Width: 30” Tail: N/A Thickness: 4” Fin set-up: 2+1 or Single The Magic SUP is built with famous (and patented) Magic model elements, which include beveled rails for maneuverability and a concave bottom for speed and stability. The EPS epoxy Magic SUP comes in any size and color.
Wahine Doheny Daisy Length: 8’ Nose: 18” Width: 22” Tail: 14” Thickness: 2.625” Fin set-up: 2+1 The new Summerland series! Walden Surfboards launched its famous Walden Wahine line in 2002, inspired by Hawaii. This collection remains hugely popular. In 2009, our second Wahine collection was launched called "Summerland," a collection inspired by the California surfer girl.
Mega Magic Length: 8’ Nose: 19” Width: 24” Tail: 15” Thickness: 3.750” Fin set-up: 2+1 or Single The Mega model has the classic Magic model elements: hard rails, concave bottom, combined with massive volume. The Mega will float like a board that is 12-18" longer. For the surfer who wants floatation and performance.
Walden Surfboards 853 E. Front Street, Ventura, CA 93001 Tel: 805-653-1717 • Email: info@waldensurfboards.com • www.waldensurfboards.com
56
FlexFlight
Dominator
The Quadfish
Length: 9” Nose: 17” Width: 22.250” Tail: 13.8125” Thickness: 2.750” Fin set-up: Thruster
Length: 6’2” Nose: 13.8125” Width: 20.750” Tail: 16.1875” Thickness: 2.625” Fin set-up: 5/4/3
Length: 5’8” Nose: 15.875” Width: 20.5” Tail: 15.6875” Thickness: 2.750” Fin set-up: Quad
The FLEXFLIGHT features a 1 lb. EPS core, high-density skin and PARABOLIC balsa rails, creating a lightweight, durable board that flexes and eliminates the chatter often associated with longer, stiffer surfboards.
The DOMINATOR combines a full outline and thick foil from nose to tail. Built with the flex characteristics and lightweight of FUTURE SHAPES TECHNOLOGY, the DOMINATOR paddles like it’s turbo-charged and flies through turns.
The QUADFISH has a retro inspired outline and 4-fin set-up, creating a performance hybrid with tighter arcs and the same drive, holding power and flat out speed of the keel fin designs.
Firewire Surfboards 4937 Market Street, San Diego, CA 92102 Tel: 858.764.1838 • Fax: 619.266.0304 • Email: info.usa@firewiresurffboards.com • www.firewiresurfboards.com
Banana Model
San O
Rapier
Length: 9’6” Nose: 17.9375” Width: 22.5” Tail: 14.5” Thickness: 3.25” Fin set-up: Single fin
Length: 10’ Nose: 18.5” Width: 23.125” Tail: 16” Thickness: 3.375” Fin set-up: Single fin
Length: 9’10” Nose: 18.5” Width: 23.125” Tail: 15.3125” Thickness: 3.3125” Fin set-up: Single fin
Our Banana Model is a universal surfboard with few limitations. This model remains the best choice for the surfer needing some flotation and paddling ease, without sacrifice in maneuverability. It’s a must have.
You want a board that will catch lots of waves? This is your board. The San O model was designed as the longboard with excellent flotation, stability and ease of paddling, with plenty of maneuverability.
This pintail has the float and paddling of the Banana, and as much stability on the nose as the San-O. Also a wonderful flow of turn to cutback that a pin tail delivers.
Spherical Revolver Length: 7’6” Nose: 16.75” Width: 22” Tail: 15.5” Thickness: 2.1875” Fin set-up: Single fin or 2 +1 A great design for the longboarder who wants some of the shorter feel. With its wide surface area and elliptical shape, the Spherical Revolver is stable and quick, and has an amazing amount of maneuverability.
Noserider
Limited Edition
Length: 9’8” Nose: 18.5” Width: 23.625” Tail: 15.5” Thickness: 3.3125” Fin set-up: Single fin
Length: 10’ Nose: 18.5” Width: 23.125” Tail: 15.3125” Thickness: 3.3125” Fin set-up: Single fin
A noserider! With one of the more exaggerated concaves ever built, this board will simplify getting “tip” time like never before. It also catches waves quite well, and it turns quite easily.
As a tribute to his 50 years of board building, Rich Harbour is pleased to present the Limited Edition. This board will only be available until December 31, 2009.
Harbour Surfboards 329 Main Street, Seal Beach, CA 90740 Tel: 562 430-5614 • Email: contact@harboursurfboards.com • www.harboursurfboards.com
57
Surfspective
Something Nutty This Way Comes Meet Dave Allee of Almond Surfboards & Designs By Chasen Marshall
At the Almond shop, the door and the dialogue is open to any and all comers. Egomaniacs and the close-minded need not enter.
completely different sort. “I was shaping a bit and goofing
A funny thing happened to Dave
(www.lifeisjustswell.com). If you blended Ando & Friends,
around with drawing on shirts [while in
Mattuse Wetsuits, Thalia Street Surf Shop
college], but I was pretty adamant
and your local shaper, you’d have a
about not wanting to start a business,”
pretty good representation of what
Allee recalled. “I was thinking,
Allee and Almond have going on.
‘Everybody starts a clothing company,
Everything is soothing pastels,
starts shaping, I’m not that kid who
meticulous planning, creative
thinks he’s a hot shot and going to
collaboration and an unnerving sense
make it in the world designing clothes.”
to let the thing grow as necessary. And
Luckily the people in his life
the growth is coming from contributions
Allee on his way to joining Corporate
convinced him otherwise. That was
from a number of the über-talented
America, he became exactly what he
almost two years ago, and over that
people in Allee’s life.
wanted to avoid – a member of the surf
time his initial anti-sellout, anti-
industry. Instead of hand-pressed suits,
conformist mentality spawned an
Almond was being able to empower
stock portfolios and expensed lunches,
organic company concept that has
people to do what they love to do, and
Allee has ended up surrounded by resin
grown from garage shaping and pencil
Griffin was the perfect example,” Allee
tints, Kookumbers, and Almonds. And he
sketches to a cozy shop location on Old
said. “I wanted to empower people to
couldn’t be happier.
Newport Blvd. and multi-national
do the things that they’re passionate
Growing up in Newport Beach, Calif.
“An undertone of starting out
distribution. Allee’s initial reservations
about and good at because that’s
and with a degree in Business Marketing
have subsided, and now the self-
when everyone is happiest, that’s when
to his name, Allee turned away from the 9
proclaimed extrovert is inviting the
they’re most efficient, and that’s when
to 5 future he had anticipated and fell
world to meet his brainchild, Almond
the machine is going good.”
headlong into a business venture of a
Surfboards & Designs
58
Griffin is Griffin Neumann-Kyle, the
ultra-talented and supremely devoted 20-year-old shaper who alleviates many of Allee’s shaping stresses. The relationship between the two has been perfect, with Neumann-Kyle preferring to be elbow deep in foam dust, while Allee holds down the Almond fort, welcoming customers and talking up the wonders of the Kookumber model, along with the rest of the traditionally-influenced Almond range. Beyond Griffin there’s Gully, Allee’s 13-year-old wood-working wunderkind cousin, who’s responsible for the custom fins found on the logs and fish; Kyle Lightner, who along with Griffin, came into contact with Allee via the blogging network, and contributes his photography and artistic efforts for the shop décor; Theo Hetherington, whose paintings help set the shop ambiance; and a range of fellow family members who contribute in some shape or form. But where did the whole thing come from? The project was set in motion circa 2006, after Allee saw Thomas Campbell’s second surf flick. “It basically all started after seeing Sprout and watching Tom Wegener do wooden surfboards, and thinking that was the coolest looking thing I’d ever seen in my life,” Allee explained. “I instantly fell in love with the thought of wooden surfboards.” But what do we call it? “Almond” came as an epiphany to Allee. It rolled in out of nowhere, like a lonely rogue set wave and it stuck. He liked the organic feel and its relation to surfing perfection in the form of the almond-shaped barrel. Over time other positive affiliations have come up, each further validating the selection. But what sets Allee and Almond apart isn’t the hospitality or the grand opening hors d’oeuvres, it’s that everything in the Almond universe meets Allee’s meticulous standards. Whether it be the aesthetics of every board he sells, the decision to go with quality tshirts, or the idea of keeping his boards within a reasonable price range. It’s all calculated, it all serves a particular purpose. It’s all a part of the ‘if you’re going to do it, do it right’ mentality that engulfs everything that Allee does. And so far, the approach is working for him.
Forward-thinking and looking to expand where and when it seems like a good fit, Allee's newest pursuit is a wetsuit collaboration with Es-cent-ial. 59
Continued from page 41
New country, new culture. Trading Tokyo's mega-metropolis for Norway's wide-open landscapes can mess with one's mind.
my job, yet there is only so much one can do to control the coincidences that will determine their work. External elements come into the picture, which you can’t control,
For more information contact the O.C. Pavilon at ocpavilion.com, call 949-481-5736 or email momsrc@gmail.com. Proceeds will benefit the Surf Cruise Cup Charities of Lions Club International, Hollywood, California.
but prove to be critical for that moment. The timing between each location was perfect, with the fortune of good weather and good people throughout our travels. When we made our way to Japan, the scene there was unlike anything we expected. You’ve never seen so many people frothing over the shittiest of surf conditions. People of all ages seemed to simply love surfing and SUP, and we were more than welcomed into their homes and lives (and late night bars). Now if that wasn’t enough to happen in one year, to cap it off, I even found myself in a rickety plane above and bobbing around on the inside of Teahupoo, while Ekolu Kalama pulled into some bombs. The plane/boat looked almost homemade to me, someone who knows nothing about either boats or planes. But what can you do besides trust in those who know? “Welcome to my flying boat,” said the captain (or should we call him the pilot) of the little zodiac with an attached motor. Strapped down in the back, the pilot got me up in the air. The adrenaline kicked in and blew away the fear of a potential crash as the whole thing started wobbling in the wind. Getting the bird’s eye perspective over Teahupoo was quite spectacular. It was certainly a memory which will be saved for a lifetime. Looking back at all this is bizarre. How can you ever plan for these types of things to happen, or the feelings that arise when you meet certain people at the right time of your life? But that’s just part of the what if … just like the fact that SUP has arrived. Whether people react positively or negatively, it’s there, it will find its place in time and all will be well.
60
Continued from page 37
Victory makes the sacrifices and hard work worthwhile. First across the finish line at the Rainbow Sandals Battle of the Paddle.
Though he was once the hotshot kid who laughed at his predecessors, who preached the importance of “experience” versus talent, he’s now understanding the truth in their words. No longer the upstart in the lineup or race pack, his focused training and well-executed approach now take the place of his previous reckless abandonment. He still has his game face, but he’s also able to show a bit more of the boy-next-door toothy grin and nice guy candor. Does this mean the run of extreme pursuits is coming to an end? Not even close. A few days before deadline, Chuck returned from Tahiti with photos and a video segment on Surfline documenting his deep takeoffs at Teahupoo, which further emphasized just how not finished he truly was. “[I know] there are guys out there who are younger and better — there’s always going to be someone who is better than you — but the hardest thing is to accept failure, or to accept that you’re going to be second,” Patterson said. “I know that day is going to come, and I’m good with it, but I do what I can to make sure [that day] has to wait.” The next fantastic feat of fitness? Competing in the 32-mile Molokai To Oahu channel-crossing paddleboard race on July 26. The journey continues. 61
NextIssue
50 Years A lot has changed, a lot is quite a bit the same. New faces have come, old faces are … still around. Materials have changed, only to be revisted and seen as retro and “limited edition.” As surfing celebrates 50 years of industry, we take a look back at some of the movers and shakers, and take a closer look at how far we’ve come. From emerging sport to big industry, the landscape of surfing has undergone a radical overhaul. Fifty years ago, surfers couldn’t be professional athletes, there were no sponsorships or TV contracts, museums weren’t dedicated to the sport and major motion pictures didn’t try to capture its essence for the masses to watch and enjoy.
Oh, how far we’ve come. But you can only look back for so long. While the past may set the path for the present, our surfing forefathers surely didn’t anticipate everything that the sport would become. While the corporate sponsored contests and brand paraphernalia pays the bills, the sport still relies on the athletes and the hands-on artists to help it advance. Whether standing tall on the SUP, taking longboards to new performance heights or working elbow deep in foam, the new breed of contributing factors have been just as innovative and integral to the sport as the forefathers, all those years ago. To whom do we credit the progression? The names and events are many, but there are some that stand out from the crowd. See you next issue. 64
SurfStories
Gameshow Gets Married By Greg Gutierrez
Three weeks ago, my good friend
the boat had to head out to sea.
Gameshow got married. This may seem
Then I made a break north, paddling
of little importance, but Gameshow is an
towards PB point. I figured that if I
extremely free spirit. He does not settle
could get to the cliffs, I’d be okay. I
down easily. We sat back in the
thought about what would happen to
preacher’s chambers, waiting for the
me if the guards caught me. I’d be
ceremony to begin. I could see he was
put in jail. They’d put me in a cage. I
as nervous as hell. I asked him when he
was pumped up and paddling hard. I
had decided to marry Summer. He sat
knew then that I couldn’t let
down, lit a cigarette, took a deep drink
Summer leave me.
of his fourth vodka and orange juice,
I don’t know
and started talking.
why, all of a
“Okay, this is what happened.
sudden I knew
Summer and I got into this huge friggin’
I’d be making the biggest
fight about our relationship. After three
mistake of my life if I let
years, she felt she deserved a
her go. I told God that if I
commitment out of me. Can you
got away, I’d ask her to
imagine? She even threatened to leave
marry me.
me. So I told her, ‘Go ahead and leave
“There was a white-
me baby, I ain’t holding you back.
haired guard that swam
Don’t let the door hit your hiney.’
like a wahoo. He swam
“I was kinda pissed, so I went surfing
faster than I could
at Crystal Pier. It was Labor Day, so the
paddle; he was a freak
blackball rule was in effect, you know,
of a swimmer. Before
no surfing. There were no lifeguards in
long, he grabbed my
sight, and the waves were really good,
leash. I told him that I
so I paddled out. It wasn’t long before a
would go in; he had
lifeguard in a Jeep pulled up and called
worked hard
me out of the water with his
to catch me,
loudspeaker. I got out and, naturally, as
and he wasn’t
soon as he was out of sight, I went right
going to let me go.
back surfing.
As we walked out of
“My energy level was screaming,
“The guards were back in force
the water, I began to
pure adrenaline. The boat could not
after I had caught about four sweet
think of Summer and
get close to me because of the
waves. I think they were jealous
what would happen. I
swell. I saw the trail that I needed. I
because I was ripping so hard. There
looked towards the
took a wave to the base of the trail
were two Jeeps on the beach, and a
waves and said to the
and threw my board back out to
red patrol boat came flying around the
guard, ‘Looks like that
sea. I wouldn’t be able to run with it,
pier. Two of the guards were swimming
kid’s in trouble.’ His
and it was a piece of crap anyway.
from shore, and the boat was almost on
eyes darted towards
I scrambled to the top of the cliff
top of me. I couldn’t let them get me. I
the ocean and I
and started huffing it. I ran inland
was in some trouble in the Islands, and
swung the rail of my
two blocks to La Jolla Blvd., then
there were some people looking for me.
board into his gut with
headed towards PB. When I got
It was a money thing, you know? If these
all my might. He
home Summer was packing her
guards ran a check on me, I’d be taken
doubled over, and I
clothes. I got on one knee and bit
in. Of course, Summer’s Dad has
headed back out to sea. I was
the bullet. I figured, what the hell, it’s
cleared all that up.
zigzagging towards the cliffs, and the
something new, right?”
“Anyway, I pretended to begin
Jeeps could no longer follow me. It
paddling towards shore. A set came, so 66
was now just me, and the patrol boat.
“Right, like committing to a huge wave.”