Where Magazine New Orleans Jan 2024 by Morris Media Network

NEW ORLEANS JAN 2024

GLITTER GLAM BRING OUT YOUR INNER SPARKLE

90th Annual Sugar Bowl It’s Carnival Time Must-See Exhibits Emeril City

Available for private parties A New Orleans Tradition 622 Canal • 600 Decatur • 334 Royal • 311 Bourbon

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#1 Attraction in New Orleans

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Explore how the war continues to impact our lives today through this three-story exhibit hall highlighting

the end of World War II, The Holocaust, and The Postwar Years

THE NEW LIBERATION PAVILION

Featuring exhibits on the Holocaust, Anne Frank, the Monuments Men and Women, the postwar campaign for freedom and human rights. Don't miss the new Freedom Theater experience!

New SPECIAL EXHIBITION

yle and tion the Ga a Found ted by presen aritable h C n enso B m To

on the 350,000 American women who served their country in World War II

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CONTENTS

10 2024

ESSENTIALS Editor’s Note 6 Calendar 8 Maps 37 Parting Shot 40 THE GUIDE Dining 19 Shopping 28 Attractions 31 Entertainment 33 Nightlife 33

13 And We’re Off

Roll out the king cakes and parades, and get this Mardi started.

New Year, New Exhibits Seven standout museum must-sees to put on your to-do list.

ON THE

COVER

All Things Emeril The Lagasse legacy continues to grow in delicous ways in New Orleans.

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Eeko Glitter Moss Green and Live Oak. Model: Belle DeLeón; Photographer: Greg Miles; Midori Makup Artistry; Styling and Headress: Danielle Smith. ©ELEKTRA COSMETICS

(FROM TOP) ©ELEKTRA COSMETICS; ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE; ©EMERIL’S RESTAURANTS

Glitter me up, glitter me down: Where to get your shine on.

JAN

THE

EDITOR’S NOTE 2024

JANUARY

DOUG BRANTLEY Editor, WhereTraveler ® New Orleans @whereneworleans

y neighbor Cam is a compulsive costumer (Mardi Gras, St. Patrick’s, Easter, Halloween, Christmas—name the occasion, and she likely has a getup for it) and a certified glitter-holic. I once eyed something sparkly on the floor at the gym, and, sure enough, it turned out she had been there earlier that day. Glitter makeup, glitter gloss, glitter spray, glitter polish, body glitter, craft glitter, chunky glitter, ultrafine glitter; it’s an obsession…and a lifestyle. So much so, that she purchased a second property nearby to house her stash and serve as her crafting quarters. Glitter is big business in the Crescent City, and not just because of Cam. “New Orleans is the unofficial glitter capital of the world,” says Danielle Smith, whose popular Elektra Cosmetics line is featured on this month’s cover and in Jenny Adams’ guide to glittery goods around town. Searching for a shimmering wig, powder pigments, eco-conscious alternatives or a full-on glitter party? We got you. You’re sure to see lots of sparkle (and probably spot Cam) at the eight great Carnival parades we map out elsewhere in this issue, and at the recently revamped Emeril’s (in the form of edible gold leaf), which we also spotlight, along with the celebrity chef’s three additional local eateries. The 90th annual Sugar Bowl, must-see museum exhibits, Drake, Elvis Costello, Saints and Pelicans home games: 2024 is off and running. Grab some glitter and get going!

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WHAT’S HAPPENING

THE LINEUP

GREAT THINGS New Orleans Pelicans Throughout the Month The Pels play six home games at the Smoothie King Center, starting with the Brooklyn Nets Jan. 2 and culminating with the Oklahoma City Thunder Jan. 26. For a full schedule, visit smoothiekingcenter.com. Fan Expo Jan. 5-7 Calling all cosplayers! Fantasy, sci-fi and comic characters appear in the flesh—Elijah Wood (“Lord of the Rings”), Linda Hamilton (“The Terminator”), Danny Trejo (“Machete”), Holly Marie Combs and Rose McGowan (“Charmed”)—during this pop culture party at the Convention Center. fanexpo hq.com/home/events New Orleans Saints Jan. 7 The Black and Gold close out the season at the Caesars Superdome, taking on regional rivals the Atlanta

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JANUARY 1 Nine decades of New Orleans New Year’s tradition kicks off Jan. 1 at 7:45 pm, when the Washington Huskies and the Texas Longhorns hit the Caesars Superdome field for the 90th annual Allstate Sugar Bowl. With this year’s sold-out matchup serving as a College Football Playoff semifinal, winners will move on the National Championship Game in Houston Jan. 8. No tickets? No prob. You can still join in on the fun with a New Year’s Eve pregame parade through the French Quarter and watering holes citywide throwing viewing parties. allstatesugarbowl.org

TOP STOPS HOUSE OF BLUES Jan. 14: The Charlatans; Jan. 20: Ocie Elliott; Jan. 24: Dopapod. hob.com LE PETIT THEATRE Jan. 11-28: “Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?” lepetit theatre.com MAHALIA JACKSON THEATER Jan. 27: “The Rocket Man Show.” mahaliajackson theater.com NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM Jan. 12: The Rumble; Jan. 18-20: Cigar Box Guitar Festival. nolajazz museum.org

ALLSTATE SUGAR BOWL

COMPAÑÍA NACIONAL DE DANZA

Falcons. caesars superdome.com Elvis Costello Jan. 16 The multiple Grammywinning singer/songwriter, who helped define new wave music, plays the Orpheum Theater, backed by the Imposters with blues guitarist Charlie Sexton. orpheumnola.net Compañía Nacional de Danza Jan. 20 Spain’s top-rated dance company jetés into town, bringing with it the North American premiere of a mixed repertoire that swings from classical to avant-garde. mahalia jacksontheater.com

Neil deGrasse Tyson Jan. 23 Who says learning can’t be fun? The former “NOVA” and “Cosmos” host conducts a crash course in astrophysics that’s both educational and entertaining, looking at life through “The Cosmic Perspective” at the Saenger Theatre. saengernola.com Drake Jan. 29 & 30 Initially set to kick off his “It’s All a Blur” tour at the Smoothie King Center last June, Drake postponed his appearance until September…when he canceled again. All good. This month’s back-to-back performances with J. Cole should more than make up for it. smoothiekingcenter.com

ORPHEUM THEATER Jan. 14: Brian Regan; Jan. 19: New Orleans Teaser Festival. orpheumnola.net SAENGER THEATRE Jan. 5: Leanne Morgan; Jan. 9-19: “My Fair Lady”; Jan. 24: “The Life and Music of George Michael”; Jan. 30-Feb. 4: “Les Misérables.” saenger nola.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Jan. 22: WWE Raw. smoothiekingcenter.com TIPITINA’S Jan. 7: Fais Do-Do With the Bruce Daigrepont Cajun Band; Jan. 9: The Lone Bellow Trio; Jan 11-13: The Radiators; Jan. 14: The Raw Oyster Cult; Jan. 26: Lost Bayou Ramblers with Crush Diamond. tipitinas.com

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(FROM LEFT) ©CHERYL GERBER/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©NEW ORLEANS BALLET ASSOCIATION

CALENDAR

ALLSTATE SUGAR BOWL

ENTERTAINMENT

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THE

NEW ORLEANS

WHERE NOW

ALL THAT

Glitters Get your shine on at these sparkling spots

JENNY ADAMS

Where Now

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: BIODEGRADABLE PIXIE DUST, GLITTER BOX N.O. AND

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©PIXIE DUST; ©GLITTER BOX N.O.; ©PIXIE DUST; (OPPOSITE PAGE) ©JENNY ADAMS

A PIXIE DUST ARTIST WORKING HER MAGIC; OPPOSITE PAGE: FIFI MAHONY'S

’T

is the season to be sparkly! Well, if we are honest, in New Orleans we find the smallest reasons to sparkle, from a Sunday brunch to an afternoon shopping spree to an all-out fête. “In New Orleans, I can wear glitter any day of the week, be it a special occasion or a trip to the grocery store. This is simultaneously the reason New Orleans is the best city for running a glitter business,” says Samantha Bongiovanni, founder of Pixie Dust, whose locally produced line of biodegradable glitter won’t hurt the planet but can be easily found in 10 shops around the city. Bongiovanni isn’t the only shimmery salesperson in New Orleans. This city is rife with face and body products, full-scale shops devoted to just glitter, as well as costume and craft emporiums with hundreds of options. Want to shine bright during your visit? Right this way.

GLITTER BOX N.O. A sparkling store with an aim of empowerment, a visit to the Glitter Box should be on every New Orleans travel agenda. This independent Royal Street retail shop certainly stocks plenty of glitter, but also enriches the community by featuring art, clothing, jewelry and one-of-a-kind handmade items by local makers, particularly those in marginalized genders. You will also find great events at the Glitter Box, from headpiece workshops to crafting classes. Five percent of

all sales are donated to philanthropies that align with their own missions, too. glitterboxno.com

PIXIE DUST BIODEGRADABLE GLITTER “I now have a team of glitter artists, and we do events big and small; galas, balls, weddings, birthdays, bachelorette parties, baby showers, parade lineups, Mardi Gras krewe meetings, holiday celebrations, store sip-and-shops, etc.,” boasts Bongiovanni, who started her business after watching an alarming YouTube video on the microplastic implications of glitter. “It’s harmful to our aquatic ecosystems,” she notes. “Biodegradable glitter is made from plant cellulose, rather than plastic, and will decompose in wastewater/soil.” Bongiovanni makes all her own blends and products by hand, and you can find them in shops throughout the city, including Glitter Box on Royal Street, Vintage Green Review on Magazine and Dime Store Cowgirl on Oak. You can also order it online or book a party experience. pixiedust.eco

ELEKTRA COSMETICS/GLITTER BUFFET If you spend enough time in New Orleans, you’ll eventually come across a Glitter Buffet station at a party. Danielle Smith is the “CEO of Sparkle” at Elektra Cosmetics, and she offers full setups and artisans for face and body decorating at events. The company also hand-blends its colors, with a lineup of more than 150 options in glitter and 30 options for shimmery powder

Where Now

comes glitter, and Fifi’s has plenty dusted into beehives, cascading down waves or littering French twists. However, it’s also a great place to take glitter to-go. The shop stocks a range of easy-to-apply glitter gels for your body and face in pretty little containers right by the counters at both its locations—in the French Quarter and Bywater. fifisbywater.square.site

FIFI MAHONY’S

NOLA CRAFT CULTURE

First and foremost, Fifi Mahony’s is known for wigs, whether you seek a sleek, simple bob or an outrageous, three-foot towering affair decked in a theme, be it cupcakes or creepy crawlers. With wigs

There is a downside to glitter. Ahem…it’s around forever, if it spills in your house. That’s just one benefit of NOLA Craft Culture, where you can rent lockers and work on your project, whether

you need a day, a week or a year to house your sparkling creations. Creation is the name of the game here, too. “We have a full retail space, along with a workshop space where customers can take classes to learn new techniques, have a unique birthday party experience or craft to their hearts’ content after making a purchase upstairs,” says co-owner Lisette Constanin. From bridal parties decorating second-line umbrellas to a friendly afternoon spent decorating cups for Mardi Gras throws, there are more than 100 hand-blended glitters, from cosmetic to edible, available here. nolacraftculture.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MARDI GRAS-HUED GLITTER FROM NOLA CRAFT CULTURE, ELEKTRA COSMETICS "CEO OF SPARKLE" DANIELLE SMITH AND COSTUMING ACCESSORIES AT

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NOLA CRAFT CULTURE

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©NOLA CRAFT CULTURE; ©ELEKTRA COSMETICS; ©JENNY ADAMS

pigments, best for lips and eyes. You can stop in its brick-and-mortar location on St. Claude Avenue and peruse the options in the front room or create your own event with friends by reserving the back Rainbow Room, where artists will transform you into the unicorn you always knew you were. elektracosmetics.com; glitterbuffet.com

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ROLL WITH IT Chewbacchus Jan. 20, 7 pm This Intergalactic krewe celebrates everything sci-fi, with the goal of “saving the galaxy…one drunken nerd at a time!” chewbacchus.org

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP) ©CHERYL GERBER/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©SHAWN FINK; ©PAUL BROUSSARD/NEWORLEANS.COM; ©CHERYL GERBER

Krewe Bohéme Jan. 26, 7 pm An artsy, absinthe-minded parade that’s as dreamy as the hallucinatory spirit it celebrates. kreweboheme.com Krewe du Vieux Jan. 27, 6:30 pm One of the raciest, raunchiest romps of the season—hence, its huge popularity. kreweduvieux.org

THE PHUNNY PHORTY PHELLOWS, KING CAKE AND KREWE DE JEANNE D'ARC

And We’re Off Ready or not…it’s Carnival season!

ardi Gras Day falls early this year—on Feb. 13—meaning parades get rolling in earnest mid-January and “the greatest free party on earth” builds from there. But not until the king cake is officially cut.

TWELFTH NIGHT KICKOFF

The city’s signature Carnival confection starts making its appearance on bakery and grocery shelves at the beginning of the month, but the local tradition is to abstain until Jan. 6—King’s Day, aka Twelfth Night—when devotees descend into a feeding frenzy that continues through Fat Tuesday. You’ll find numerous varieties all over town, but the King Cake Hub (kingcakehub. com) helps narrow the hunt with a

one-stop central location that offers some of the area’s best. Twelfth Night also sees the season’s first parades, with the Phunny Phorty Phellows (phunnyphortyphellows.com) taking to the St. Charles streetcar line at 7 pm to “herald the arrival of Carnival,” followed on the rails by the Funky Uptown Krewe (funkyuptownkrewe. com). In the French Quarter, you’ll find strolling revelers in chainmail, riders on horseback and more medieval merriment when the Krewe de Jeanne d’Arc (joanofarcparade. com) sets off from Toulouse and Decatur streets at 7 pm. The procession culminates with—what else?—king cake in celebration of the Maid of Orléans’ 612th birthday.

’tit Rex Jan. 28, 4:30 pm Shoe box-sized floats + teenytiny handmade throws = Big Fun. titrexparade.com Krewedulusion Jan. 28, 7 pm Political and satirical with a Benevolent Ruler and a mission “to save the universe, beginning at its center—New Orleans.” krewedelusion.net

CHEWBACCHUS PARADE

NEW ORLEANS

New Year, New Exhibits

WHERE NOW

LEFT: THE LOUISIANA CIVIL RIGHTS MUSEUM’S “INAUGURAL EXPERIENCE,” A HUNT SLONEM BAYOU TECHE SCENE AND A 1922 KNIGHTS TEMPLAR PARADE ON CANAL STREET, PART OF “A MYSTIC BROTHERHOOD”

Winter blahs? The colorful birds, butterflies and bunnies that populate Hunt Slonem: A Retrospective will instantly cheer you up. Slonem, who divides his time between New York and Louisiana, is internationally known for his bold paintings and sculpture. Culled exclusively from private Louisiana collections, the exhibit explores the state’s influence on his work (bayou landscapes) and his connection to the city. Slonem’s penchant for collecting—19th-century portraiture, antique frames, harps, top hats, homes (he owns three historic estates around Louisiana)—is also highlighted. LOUISIANASTATEMUSEUM.ORG/EXHIBIT/ HUNT-SLONEM-RETROSPECTIVE

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION Since the early 1800s, New Orleans’ social aid and pleasure clubs have not only provided fellowship for their members but also financial support in times of need.

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A Mystic Brotherhood: Fraternal Orders of New Orleans examines how the Freemasons, Odd Fellows, Elks, Knights of Columbus and other benevolent organizations, often shrouded in secrecy, helped shape the city’s cultural and civic life and continue to influence it today. HNOC.ORG

LOUISIANA CIVIL RIGHTS MUSEUM Thirty years in the making, this Inaugural Experience provides a sense of the broader, full-scale permanent civil rights museum to be constructed nearby. Housed in Hall A at the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center, the installation highlights pivotal players (Ruby Bridges, A.Z. Young, Leah Chase) and major moments (school desegregation, bus boycotts, lunch counter sit-ins) in the local civil rights movement. Video clips and listening stations enhance the exhibit, along with an AI-powered, interactive “dream cube.” LOUISIANASTATEMUSEUM.ORG

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THE CABILDO CLOCKWISE FROM

(FROM LEFT) ©THE ADVOCATE/LOUISIANA CIVIL RIGHTS MUSEUM; ©LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS; ©GIFT OF MRS. THOMAS LENNOX, 1986.194.23/HNOC

What’s on the walls at local museums

Where Now

The photography driven A Better Life for Their Children focuses on the partnership between Sears, Roebuck & Co. president Julius Rosenwald and Tuskegee Institute principal Booker T. Washington to increase educational opportunities for Black children during the early 20th century (also touched on at the Louisiana Civil Rights Museum). Close to 5,000 Rosenwald schools were erected throughout the South between 1917 and 1932 (with graduates including poet Maya Angelou and congressman John Lewis), forming a bond between Jewish and Black communities that would carry over to the civil rights movement. A screening of the documentary “Rosenwald” takes place Jan. 18. MSJE.ORG

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM The new, three-story Liberation

Pavilion features 13 galleries examining the end of World War II and its lasting impact. The first floor’s “Finding Hope in a World Destroyed” features a recreation of the annex Anne Frank and her family hid in, along with personal testimonies of Holocaust survivors. The second floor’s “Foundation Forces of Freedom at Home and Abroad” explores post-war rebuilding efforts, while the third floor houses the immersive Freedom Theater experience. NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART Louisiana native Debbie Fleming Caffery’s fine art, black-and-white photography is found in Paris’ Bibliothèque nationale de France, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and Manhattan’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, among numerous others. But In Light of Everything marks the first major museum retrospective in her six-decade career. Caffery’s documentary style

images, taken around the South, Mexico and France, capture everything from sugarcane field workers and religious rituals to hurricane destruction and migratory birds. NOMA.ORG

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART Marking the Ogden’s 20th anniversary, Knowing Who We Are showcases works from the museum’s permanent collection divided by movements on two floors. “The Rise of Abstraction, Vernacular Art and Photography” includes 20th-century greats like Clementine Hunter, while “From 19th-Century Academic Painting Through Southern Regionalism” features earlier artists such as John Drysdale. Also on view is the annual juried Louisiana Contemporary exhibition spotlighting up-and-coming talents from around the state. OGDENMUSEUM.ORG

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: NOMA’S “DEBBIE FLEMING CAFFERY: IN LIGHT OF EVERYTHING,” THE OGDEN’S “LOUISIANA CONTEMPORARY” EXHIBIT, THE LIBERATION PAVILION’S ORIENTATION THEATER AND A QUILT COMMEMORATING THE ROSENWALD SCHOOLS FROM “A BETTER LIFE FOR THEIR CHILDREN”

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(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©NOMA; ©SEAN CLARK/OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART; ©NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM; ©MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE

MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE

Where Now

Emeril A L L T HING S LORIN GAUDIN

Newly refreshed with son E.J. at the helm as chef patron, gone is à la carte dining. In are Tasting Menus—Classic and Seasonal— that cleverly journey through flavors and textures of New Orleans and the American South, respectively. Both menus are seven courses with add-on wine pairings available. Kicking off the Classic menu is a stunning Smoked Salmon Cheesecake topped with caviar and wispy shards of gold leaf. And that’s only the beginning. emerilsrestaurant.com

THE WINE BAR AT EMERIL’S From the Julia Street entrance of Emeril’s, access the wine bar. Here, there is more caviar and cham-

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EMERIL’S BRASSERIE Totally family friendly for all ages, diners pop in through the Canal Street entrance of Caesars (Harrah’s) Casino for Emeril’s version of classic French brasserie foods, including Kicked-Up Onion Soup and a glorious “Mile-High” Peanut Butter Pie. Keep eyes out for upcoming breakfast, brunch and lunch. caesars.com/ harrahs-new-orleans/restaurants/emerils-brasserie

MERIL In the heart of the Warehouse District, Meril continues to wow with great cocktails (get a frozen “Lushie”) and “Snacks,” including Deviled Eggs with smoked trout roe and crumbled Zapp’s chips or Fried Turkey Necks. Any of the flatbreads is another great start, before selecting from hunger-crushing big plates like the Double Cheeseburger or Candied Pork Ribs. emerils restaurants.com/meril

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WINE BAR AT EMERIL’S, EMERIL’S BRASSERIE

(ALL IMAGES) ©EMERIL’S RESTAURANTS

EMERIL’S

pagne, along with other notable faves like gumbo and barbecue shrimp from the 1990 Emeril’s launch. Do not miss the Vietnamese-inspired Chicory Cà Phê Dá (iced coffee) ice cream. emerils restaurant.com

AND MERIL

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lways innovating, chef Emeril Lagasse is at it again. In 1990, Emeril’s first (and namesake) restaurant opened in the then-woefully undeveloped (now thriving) Warehouse District and was New Orleans’ first restaurant to regularly feature local products like Cajun caviar. It’s 2024, and Lagasse is again forging new paths by altering his flagship’s infrastructure, adding to the culinary landscape and keeping menus fresh.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: EMERIL’S, THE

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Steak tartare with herbed potato waffle from Brennan’s (p. 22). As of press time, the following listings were up to date but subject to change; call ahead to verify hours.

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Central Business/ Warehouse District BÉSAME Latin. Chef Nanyo Dominguez’s Latin American menu covers a lot of ground: Oaxacan-style ceviche, crispy cauliflower tapas, Yucatan pork. For big appetites, the seafood paella more than satisfies. L (ThSu), D (Th-M). 110 S. Rampart St., 504.308.0880. Map 3, E3; besame-nola.com BEARCAT CAFÉ Eclectic. At this popular brunch spot the menu is divided into Good Cat/Bad Cat options. On the naughty side, there’s a lush scramble of eggs and crabmeat or a decadent fried chicken club; to play nice, order the tofu scramble with black bean “sausage.” B, L (Tu-Su). 845 Carondelet St. 504.766.7399. 2521 Jena St., 504.309.9001. bearcatcafe.com

CAFÉ NORMANDIE French. This National WWII Museum eatery leans classic French with American twists. Dig into a gooey duck confit grilled cheese or the Gulf seafood-centric Cajun paella. B (daily), L (M-Sa); Br (Su). 1000 Magazine St. (in the Higgins Hotel), 504.528.1941. Map 3, B6; higginshotelnola.com CHEMIN À LA MER Louisiana. French for “path to the sea,” chef Donald Link’s gorgeous Four Seasons space offers incredible views of the Mississippi, a well-stocked raw bar and top-tier steaks. B, L, D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5898. Map 3, E7; cheminalamer.com

COMMONS CLUB Louisiana. The ramped-up regional fare here is anything but common. Duck confit hash with celery root and mushroom ragu, Iberico pork flank with crab dirty rice, Wagyu burgers with smoked gouda and bacon-fat aioli—see what we mean? D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 550 Baronne St. (in the Virgin Hotel), 833.791.7700. Map 3, C4; virginhotels.com/new-orleans COMPÈRE LAPIN Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as blackened pig ears with smoked aioli, jerk pork belly and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. D (nightly). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; comperelapin.com COPPER VINE American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this easygoing “wine pub” serves up duck fat fries, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as Gulf fish amandine. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4; coppervine.com COUVANT French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include gougères with truffled Mornay sauce, escargot en croute and steak frites. L (M-Th), D (TuSa); Br (F-Su). 317 Magazine St., 504.342.2316. Map 3, D5; couvant.com THE DAILY BEET Vegetarian. Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at these hip cafés. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado,

runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L (daily). 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, C4; B, L, D (daily). 3300 Magazine St., 504.766.0377. Map 1, D4; thedailybeetnola.com DESI VEGA’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. Sure, there are standout appetizers (baconwrapped, crab-stuffed shrimp) and killer sides (andouillecrawfish mac ’n’ cheese), but the big get here is the sizable USDA prime beef steaks cooked to perfection. L (MF), D (Tu-Sa). 628 St. Charles Ave., 504.523.7600. Map 3, B7; desivegasteaks.com DEVIL MOON BBQ Barbecue. Pop into this daytime operation for counter service of barbecue plates, sandwiches and sides. Start with the meaty-fatty pork cracklings, followed by juicy brisket, tender ribs and homemade sausage. L (Tu-Su). 1188 Girod St., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; devilmoonbbq.com DOMENICA Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics such as pork ragu lasagna. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com EMERIL’S Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship set the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out multicourse tasting menus, both classic and seasonal. The adjacent Wine Bar serves up sharable small plates. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurant.com GALLIANO Louisiana. Chef Ricky Cheramie heads this casual restaurant, flexing Cajun country muscles with a smidge of city flare. It’s almost impossible to pass up the loaded seafood gumbo, except when tempted by the andouillestuffed pork chop with red

beans and ham hock-cornbread dressing. D (M-Sa). 200 Julia St., 504.218.5753. Map 1, C7; gallianorestaurant.com GIANNA Italian. Rustic Italian fare is the order here. Chopped salad, meatballs in red gravy, lamb lasagna, veal saltimbocca; finish with gelato. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 Magazine St., 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; giannarestaurant. com GRAND ISLE Seafood. This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as smoked fried oysters, hot crab dip and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer from taps encased in ice. L (F-Su), D (W-Su). 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6; grandislerestaurant.com THE GRILL ROOM Contemporary. Refined yet relaxed, the Windsor Court Hotel’s fine dining room features innovative American cuisine that’s strong on Southern influences and local ingredients. B, L (M-F), D (WSu); jazz brunch (Sa-Su). 300 Gravier St., 504.522.1994. Map 3, D6; thewindsorcourt.com HERBSAINT French. One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes frequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5; herbsaint.com JOHNNY SÁNCHEZ Mexican. Lobster tacos, duck enchiladas, churro waffles: Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s Poydras Street hot spot puts contemporary spins on standard taqueria fare. L (Su-F), D (nightly). 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4; johnnysanchezrestaurant.com JOSEPHINE ESTELLE Italian. At this casual Ace Hotel eatery, oysters are roasted in Calabrian chili

THE GUIDE

BREWERY SAINT X American. In addition to house-brewed beers, this brewery/bar/restaurant offers kicked-up apps (smoked fish dip with crab boil chips) and an easy-to-digest selection of salads and sandwiches (eggplant and burrata). L (TuSu), D (nightly). 734 Loyola Ave., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; brewerysaintx.com

COCHON Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

Dining

DINING

butter, the meatballs combine beef with pancetta, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; josephineestelle.com KING BRASSERIE French. Crawfish beignets with crab fat aioli, Gulf fish with smoked lardon, wild boar provençale: Louisiana ingredients inform French favorites at this Rivera-inspired brasserie. Beautiful desserts. Br, D (daily). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. Map 3, D6; kingbrasserieandbar.com

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LUCY’S RETIRED SURFERS BAR & RESTAURANT Eclectic. Its name and laidback vibe hint at the Cali-Mex offerings on the menu at this fun spot. Serious salads, juicy burgers and a variety of tacos pair perfectly with Shark Attack cocktails and top-shelf margaritas. L, D (daily). 701 Tchoupitoulas St. 504.523.8995. Map 3, C6; lucyssurf.com LUFU NOLA Indian. A flavor-punched modern Indian menu that spans regions and defines boundaries. Start with the pani puri (crisp semolina shells filled with potato, peas and tamarindmint water), followed by fried masala squid and curried lamb shank. L, D (Th-Tu). 301 St. Charles Ave., 504.354.1104. Map 3, D4; lufunola.com LÜKE International. A throwback to Old World New Orleans brasseries. Creole melds with classic French bistro fare (Louisiana rabbit-and-chicken liver pâté, moules et frites) and fresh seafood. Great happy hour. L, D (daily). 333 St. Charles Ave. (in the Hilton St. Charles), 504.378.2840. Map 3, D4; lukeneworleans.com MANNING’S American. The fun, casual menu at Archie Manning’s sports-themed bar and grill puts fresh spins on tailgating classics. Loaded nachos, chicken wings, burgers, 24 beers

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on tap, 30 flat-screen TVs— score! L (Th-Su), D (Th-M). 519 Fulton St., 504.593.8118. Map 3, D6; harrahsneworleans.com MAYPOP Vietnamese. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asian-fusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrial-terrarium vibe. Dig into bibb lettuce salad with coconut ranch, fried oysters with bourbon aioli, or go spicy with lamb ragu pappardelle. D (nightly). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com MERIL International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the famed chef ’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Greek salad and poke nachos to Korean fried chicken wings. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril MISS RIVER Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com NOLA CAYE Caribbean. At this islandinspired space loads of seafood options and a strong taco list sit opposite Cuban sandwiches, braised oxtails and grilled jerk fish. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 898 Baronne St., 504.302.1302. Map 3, B5; nolacaye.com THE PEACOCK ROOM Eclectic. It’s worth stepping into the Hotel Fontenot just to see this incredibly pretty space. While there, you might as well order a few craft cocktails and a round of sharable small plates (curried cashews with candied bacon). Better yet, settle in with a smash burger. D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.324.3073. Map 3, E5; peacockroomnola.com

PÊCHE Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com POKE LOA Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes. L, D (MF). 939 Girod St., 504.571.5174. Map 3, B4; L, D (daily). 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4; eatpokeloa.com RESTAURANT AUGUST Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes such as gnocchi with crab and truffles. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE Steaks. Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily). 525 Fulton St. (inside Harrah’s Hotel), 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6; ruthschris.com SEAWORTHY Seafood. This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY Deli. The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can

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dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. L (M-Sa). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; L (daily). 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4; stjamescheese.com TRUE FOOD KITCHEN Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame guacamole to the ancient grains bowl and grass-fed burgers. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900. Map 3, B5; truefoodkitchen.com TSUNAMI Japanese. At this sprawling emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Grab a seat at the bar and create your own roll. L (M-F), D (nightly). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5; servingsushi.com WALK-ON’S American. Fittingly within walking distance of the Superdome and smoothie King Center, this popular game-day gathering ground, co-owned by Drew Brees, is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. L, D (daily). 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3; walkons.com WILLA JEAN Contemporary. Beautiful baked goods and fluffy biscuits will draw you in at breakfast, while the BBQ shrimp toast will bring you back for lunch. Grab a chocolate chip cookie for later. B, L (daily). 11 O’Keefe St., 504.509.7334. Map 3, B4; willajean.com YO NASHI Japanese. Omakase-style dining means multiple courses of whatever stellar sashimi and sushi creations chef Mackenzie Broquet dreams up, using fresh, local ingredients and top-notch techniques. L (F), D (Th-M). 419 Carondelet St., 504.345.2155. Map 3, C4; yonashinola.com

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French Quarter ANTOINE’S Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-great-grandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich FrenchCreole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. D (M-Sa); Br (M, Th-Sa), jazz brunch (Su). 713 St Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com

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ARNAUD’S Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (Tu-Sa); jazz brunch (Su). 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnauds restaurant.com BAYONA Contemporary. Chef Susan Spicer’s menu continually surprises with fresh specials, but still includes her signatures: grilled shrimp with black-bean cakes and coriander sauce, and lemon-caper sautéed sweetbreads. L (Th-Sa), D (Tu-Sa). 430 Dauphine St., 504.525.4455. Map 3, F3; bayona.com BIJOU International. Easygoing-yetsophisticated is the vibe here. Kick off with fried herbed goat cheese balls before moving on to an elegant hanger steak or meatless curried cauliflower. Finish with a warm cookie plate. D (W-Sa). 1014 N. Rampart St., 504.603.0557. Map 3, H3; bijouneworleans.com BOURBON HOUSE Seafood. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides. Don’t miss the redfish on the half shell or the bourbon shrimp and grits. L, D (daily). 144

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BRENNAN’S Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennans neworleans.com BROUSSARD’S Creole. Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the New Orleans’ premier fine dining spots with one of the most elegant courtyards in the French Quarter. The kitchen turns out Crescent City classics, such as bronzed redfish with lump crab. D (MSa); jazz brunch (F-Su). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4; broussards.com CAFÉ BEIGNET Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun fare. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com CAFÉ DU MONDE Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a mustdo. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com CANE & TABLE Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. D (W-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; caneandtablenola.com COURT OF TWO SISTERS Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz

brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the German sausage and baby back ribs with sugarcane glaze L, D (daily). 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5; crescentcitybrewhouse.com DEANIE’S Seafood. For years locals have driven to the lakefront Deanie’s for groaning boards of freshly fried seafood and grilled fish. Its in-town locations offer the same great menu in posher surroundings, with oodles of cold shrimp and top-quality lump crabmeat. L, D (daily). 841 Iberville St., 504.581.1316. Map 3, E4; L, D (W-Su). 2200 Magazine St., 504.962.7760. Map 1, D4; L, D (daily); deanies.com DIAN XIN Chinese. Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L, D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4; dianxinnnola.com. 620 Conti St., 504.372.3372. Map 3, F4; dianxinonconti.com DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE Steaks. An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces. Order the filet topped with shrimp or crab or go big with a sharable chateaubriand. D (M-Sa). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; dickiebreannans steakhouse.com DORIS METROPOLITAN Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list.

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L (F), D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan.com FRENCH TOAST Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com FRENCH TRUCK Coffee. French Truck established a loyal following as the city’s first micro-roaster. Fine coffees and killer cold brews dominate at its cool cafés. Open daily. 217 Chartres St., 504.605.2899. Map 3, F4; 700 Canal St., 504.290.2664. Map 3, E5; 650 Poydras St., 504. 800.8090. Map 3, D5; 1200 Magazine St., 504.298.1115. Map 3, D7; 2917 Magazine St., 504.399.9890. Map 1, D4; frenchtruckcoffee.com GALATOIRE’S Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (W-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com GW FINS Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com HABANA OUTPOST Latin. The Brooklyn-based, eco-conscious eatery now has a French Quarter “outpost,” which offers its signature Cuban sandwich, loaded elote and vegan-friendly tacos and bowls. L, D (Th-M). 1040 Esplanade Ave., 504.900.9500. Map 3, I3; habanaoutpost.com

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IRENE’S CUISINE Italian. Irene’s is all about garlic and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. D (Tu-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5; irenesnola.com JEWEL OF THE SOUTH Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-M). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com

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JUSTINE French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is full-on French with a slight Southern accent: onion soup gratinée and steak tartare share menu space with baked crab mac and shrimp and grits. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com KILLER POBOYS Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.439.7445. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com LATITUDE 29 Eclectic. World-renowned tiki guru Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s new-school tiki bar and restaurant recalls the spirit of Trader Vic’s. Classic tiki cocktails and original concoctions are paired with “PolynAsian” fare, such as sticky ribs. D (nightly). 321 N. Peters St., 504.609.3811. Map 3, F5; latitude29nola.com MAMOU French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Celeriac remoulade with blue crab, escargot tartlet with romesco sauce, poisson a la

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Florentine. Finish with lemon madeleines. D (W-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com MR. B’S BISTRO Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-M); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com NAPOLEON HOUSE Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com PALACE CAFÉ Creole. Part of the Brennan restaurant empire, the Palace offers sweeping views of Canal Street. Standouts include the savory crabmeat cheesecake and andouille-crusted Gulf fish. B, L (W-F), D (W-Su); jazz brunch (SaSu). 605 Canal St., 504.523.1661. Map 3, E4; palacecafe.com PALM & PINE Eclectic. This progressive restaurant explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s curry crab beignets, chicken-fried Texas quail, or dig into closerto-home flavors of turkey neck gumbo. D (W-M); Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com PELICAN CLUB Louisiana. Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors. The whole crispy fish is excellent, as is the herb-crusted rack of lamb. Start with the lump crab and shrimp ravigote. D (W-Su). 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4; pelicanclub.com PORT OF CALL American. Some say this bustling neighborhood joint has

the best burger in the city; others go strictly for the oversized, overstuffed baked potatoes…and the signature cocktail, Neptune’s Revenge. L, D (daily). 838 Esplanade Ave., 504.523.0120. Map 3, I3; portofcallnola.com RED FISH GRILL Seafood. Grilled fish too plain? Not at Ralph Brennan’s popular seafood spot. The hickorygrilled redfish topped with crab is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, double-chocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4; redfishgrill.com RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION Cajun. Chef John Folse is the tour de force behind this elegant-yet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. Swamp chic, city sleek. D (Th-Tu). 777 Bienville St., 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; revolutionnola.com SAINT JOHN Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot shrimp remoulade, turkey necks smothered in brown gravy, beef daube—everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M). 1117 Decatur St., 504.581.8120. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com STANLEY Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the French-fried frog legs and breakfast seafood platter, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. B, L (Th-M). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; stanleyrestaurant.com SUN CHONG Asian. This sleek spot doles out Asian fusion fare—crawfish fried rice, beef bulgogi po’boys, matcha cheesecake—and cool specialty cocktails, backed by a hip-hop beat. L (M-Th), D

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(Tu-Su); Br (F-Su). 240 Decatur St., 504.355.0022. Map 3, F5; sunchongnola.com SYLVAIN Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastropub near Jackson Square, as diners sip handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as fried chicken sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4; sylvainnola.com TABLEAU Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. Finish with a tarte à la bouillie. Br, D (W-Su). 616 St Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; tableaufrenchquarter.com THAIHEY NOLA Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-Su). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com TUJAGUE’S Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed, five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District ATCHAFALAYA Louisiana. Look for the giant cast-iron skillet outside of this upscale neighborhood eatery and dishes such as free-form blue crab raviolo and chili-rubbed pork chop. Br, D (Th-M). 901 Louisiana Ave., 504.891.9626. Map 1, D4; atchafalayarestaurant.com

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Dining

BIRDY’S BEHIND THE BOWER Contemporary. A bright, welcoming space serving breakfast and brunch of biscuits, eggs, bubble waffles, burgers, bowls, salads and more. Br (daily). 1320 Magazine St., 504.302.2992. Map 1, D4; birdysnola.com THE BOWER Contemporary. Chef Marcus Woodham works closely with local farmers to keep his menu fresh and seasonal. Cheese and charcuterie boards give way to gorgeous house-made pastas and grilled Gulf fish. D (M-Sa). 1320 Magazine St., 504.582.9738. Map 1, D4; thebowernola.com

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COQUETTE French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes often but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com FAT BOY PANTRY Eclectic. Fried lobster po’boys, wild boar Sloppy Jos, lamb belly-and-scrambled eggs pitas, rib eye and Cheez Wiz: You won’t find your usual sandwich suspects here. Great juices, coffees and ice cream, too. L, D (daily). 1302 Magazine St., 504.239.9514. Map 1, D4; fatboypantry.com GRIS-GRIS Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (catfish-and-caviar po’ boys, redfish courtbouillon) from his hopping open kitchen. The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers a great selection of graband-go items. Br, D (W-M). 1800

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COMMANDER’S PALACE Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com

Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com JACK ROSE Contemporary. This bold, contemporary space in the Pontchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think pork cheeks with polenta and Creole meunière or fried chicken Parmesan. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. D (W-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; jackroserestaurant.com MOLLY’S RISE & SHINE Contemporary. The sandwich gurus behind Turkey and the Wolf also operate this equally funky breakfast/ brunch spot. House-made pop tarts, collard greens and grits, coconut-curry tamales, roasted-carrot yogurt—expect the unexpected. B (W-M). 2368 Magazine St., 504.302.1896. Map 1, D4; mollysriseandshine. com

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SAN LORENZO Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s elegant eatery serves up homemade pasta tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and wood-fired steaks. Start with the zucchini fritti. L (M-F), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola.com STEIN’S MARKET & DELI Deli. A real-deal Jewish deli in New Orleans? Philadelphia native Dan Stein brings a taste of the Northeast to the Deep South with authentic Ruebens on rye, matzo ball soup and crusty Davidovich bagels. L (Tu-Su). 2207 Magazine St., 504.527.0771. Map 1, D3; steinsdeli.com TURKEY AND THE WOLF Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Marigny/Bywater ALMA Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. Br (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3; eatalmanola.com BACCHANAL Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com BRATZ Y’ALL German. Celebrating the neighborhood’s German background, this Bywater biergarten offers authentic brats and sausages, along with schnitzel, potato dumplings, fresh pretzels and lots of German beer. L, D (Tu-Su). 617-B Piety St., 504.301.3222. Map 1, E3; bratzyall.com BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO American. The menu at this casual neighborhood eatery focuses on local, seasonal ingredients. Blackened octopus with sweet potatococonut purée, jerk chicken with semolina dumplings; try the spicy seafood stew. D (W-Su). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; bywateramericanbistro.com THE COUNTRY CLUB Louisiana. Known for its swimming pool, this Bywater hangout also offers casual fine dining. Dive into big-flavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac’ n’ cheese) or fullon entrees such as grilled filet mignon. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com ELIZABETH’S American. “Real food done real good” is the motto at this friendly neighborhood joint,

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which draws loyal locals as well as national foodies. Two words to remember: praline bacon. B, L (Th-M). 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3; elizabethsrestaurantnola.com

columns and a variety of food vendorsand indoor/outdoor seating. B, L, D (daily). 2381 St. Claude Ave., 504.267.0388; strochmarket.com

THE ELYSIAN BAR Contemporary. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as French-rolled omelets. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6769. Map 1, E3; theelysianbar.com

Mid-City

N7 French. This quiet, hiddenaway bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck confit, a lovely wine list and fine service equate to total charm. Grab a seat in the garden. D (M-Sa); Br (F-Sa). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com PALADAR 511 Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com PIZZA DELICIOUS Italian. This pop-up pizzeria grew so popular that it now has its own brick-and-mortar space. New York-style pies with an everchanging array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. L, D (Tu-Su). 617 Piety St., 504.676.8482. Map 1, D3; pizzadelicious.com SAINT-GERMAIN French. Named “Best New Chefs of 2021” by Food & Wine, Blake Aguillard and Trey Smith’s casual hot spot offers a reservation-only, 10-course tasting menu that is constantly changing. D (W-Su). 3054 St. Claude Ave., 504.218.8729. Map 1, D3; saintgermainnola.com ST. ROCH MARKET Eclectic. Dating to 1875, this beautifully restored marketplace features 24 steel

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ADDIS NOLA African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here. Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef) . L (M, W-F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com ANGELO BROCATO’S Bakery. This century-old ice cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with glasstopped tables, slow-turning ceiling fans and some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. Open Tu-Su. 214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.1465. Map 1, D2; angelobrocatoicecream.com BLUE OAK BBQ Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. If the barbecued pork egg rolls make a menu appearance, get them. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com DOOKY CHASE’S Creole. One of the oldest Black-owned restaurants in the nation. The late “Queen of Creole Cuisine,” Leah Chase’s legend lives on in classic dishes such as shrimp with lima beans and gumbo z’herbes. L (Tu-F), D (F-Sa). 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3; dookychaserestaurants.com FLOUR MOON BAGELS Bakery. Hand-shaped, boiled and baked New York-style bagels are the draw here. You’ll also find a broad menu of bagel sandwiches and open-faced tartines. Named among the best in the U.S. by Bon Appétit. B, L (Th-Tu). 457 N. Dergenois

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THE ST. LOUIS GARDEN

Silkscreen Designed by George Rodrigue in 2011 and Printed in 2023 Estate Stamped Edition of 150, 37 x 15 inches 730 Royal Street (behind St. Louis Cathedral) New Orleans, LA | 504-581-4244 Mon Mon- -Sat: Sat:11:00am 11:am - -5:00pm 5:00pm Sun: 12:00pm - 5:00pm

LIL’ DIZZY’S CAFÉ Creole. The Baquet family is known for their award-winning trout Baquet, gumbo, fried chicken, baked macaroni and daily specials. L (M-Sa). 1500 Esplanade Ave., 504.766.8687. Map 3, I1; lildizzyscafe.net MOPHO Vietnamese. Chef Mike Gulotta rocks modern Vietnamese-inspired dishes at his naughty-named restaurant near the Canal streetcar line. The sweet-and-spicy chicken wings and pork belly bowl are must-haves. L, D (daily). 514 City Park Ave., 504.482.6845. Map 1, D2; mophonola.com PARKWAY BAKERY Louisiana. The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’ s just the top of the list. L (W-Su). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; parkwaypoorboys.com RALPH’S ON THE PARK Louisiana. Veteran restaurateur Ralph Brennan serves up globally inspired local cuisine in this beautifully restored historic building overlooking scenic City Park. One of the loveliest (and most romantic) locations in town. L (W-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 900 City Park Ave., 504.488.1000. Map 1, D2; ralphsonthepark.com

Show your love for New Orleans Sterling silver engraved charm

New Orleans, LA 70130

TOUPS’ MEATERY Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with sweet pea risotto. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com ZASU Seafood. James Beard Awardwinning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, hamachi crudo,

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Dining

GEORGE RODRIGUE STUDIO

St., 504.354.1617. Map 1, D3; flourmoonbagels.com

fried sea scallops with celery root-apple remoulade. D (M, W-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; zasunola.com

UPTOWN AVO Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, lasagna with short rib ragu and grilled Gulf fish piccata. D (Tu-Sa). 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; restaurantavo.com

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BRIGTSEN’S Creole. A protegé of the late great Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen’s food is rooted in Louisiana tradition but moves into a sphere of its own with his genius for combining tastes and ingredients. D (TuSa). 723 Dante St., 504.861.7610. Map 1, C3; brigtsens.com CASAMENTO’S Seafood. Open since 1919, this Uptown landmark is oyster heaven for those with a taste for plump Gulf bivalves. Get them fried for sandwiches built on thick slices of toast, floating in buttery stew or simply raw and cold on the half shell. L (ThSa), D (Th-Su). 4330 Magazine St., 504.895.9761. Map 1, D4; casamentosrestaurant.com THE CHLOE Louisiana. At this charming boutique property, chef Todd Pulsinelli turns out staller dishes that are at once elegant and playful. Evidence the porkand-shrimp étouffée dumplings and Royal Red Shrimp Roll. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4125 St. Charles Ave., 504.541.5500. Map 1, D4; thechloenola.com COSTERA Spanish. This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas, along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-Su). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com

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DAKAR NOLA African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (W-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504.493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com FRANCOLINI’S Deli. Proof that “not everything from Jersey sucks,” this homage to Northeastern Italian delis offers a wide variety of subs and sandwiches comprised of quality meats and cheeses. The Italian is piled with prosciutto, mortadella, hot capicola, genoa salami and provolone. L (ThTu). 3987 Tchoupitoulas St. Map 1, D4; francolinis.com HUNGRY EYES Eclectic. Step back to 1980s at this fun dining spot where nostalgic cocktails (apple martinis, Cosmopolitans) inform a global “drinking food” menu that mixes Asian (charred okra with lemongrass) with Mediterranean (smoky eggplant dip) and beyond. D (W-M). 4206 Magazine St., 504.766.0054. Map 1, D4; hungryeyesnola.com LA BOULANGERIE Bakery. This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are good enough to devour on their own. B, L (daily). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; laboulangerienola.com LA PETITE GROCERY French. An intimate bistro with gas lighting and pressedtin ceilings, where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (Th-Su); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com LILETTE French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well.

Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (TuSa), D (M-Sa). 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4; liletterestaurant.com MISTER MAO Eclectic. The food here is as fun as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from ginger salad and escargot Wellington to Kashmiri chile fried chicken and octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (Th-Tu); Br (Sa-Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com MOSQUITO SUPPER CLUB Louisiana. Bayou-born chef Melissa Martin serves up family-style Cajun dinners with side of Louisiana culinary history. Think shrimp-andokra gumbo and fried stuffed crabs. D (Th-Su). 3824 Dryades St., 504.494.9777. Map 1, D4; mosquitosupperclub.com OSTERIA LUPO Italian. A nod to Northern Italy, with sharable antipasti (black truffle arancini), handmade pastas (radiatori with Louisiana blue crab) and woodfired meat and seafood entrees). L (F-Su), D (nightly). 4609 Magazine St., 504.273.1268. Map 1, D4; osterialupo.com PASCAL’S MANALE Italian. A New Orleans landmark since 1913, Pascal’s is famous for inventing barbecued shrimp (a mustget) and eternally popular for its traditional Italian food. Pascal’s has an army of regulars who devour the gumbo, steaks and those succulent barbecued shrimp. L (W-F), D (Tu-Sa). 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.4877. Map 1, D4; pascalsmanalerestaurant.com PATOIS Louisiana. Aaron Burgau has earned all the praise heaped on him as a chef “to watch.” Patois is one of the city’s hottest venues, combining Burgau’s inventive French cooking with a low-key neighborhood bar scene. D (W-Sa); Br (Su). 6078 Laurel

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St., 504.895.9441. Map 1, D4; patoisnola.com PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEY Southern. Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken anchors the menu at this casual Commander’s Palace offshoot near Audubon Park. Begin with the crab dip and finish with a marshmallowtopped brownie. L, D (Tu-Sa). 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4; nolapicnic.com PIGEON & WHALE Seafood. Dip into Northeastern waters on the Gulf: Maine lobster rolls, steamed Atlantic clams, chargrilled PEI mussels, East Coast oysters on the half shell. Gin lovers will fall for the large negroni selection. D (nightly). 4525 Freret St., 504.249.5487. Map 1, D3; pigeonandwhalenola.com SABA Mediterranean. A taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as duck breast with pomegranate molasses, cocoa and citrus. L (F), D (WM); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com SAFFRON NOLA Indian. Elevated Indian fare. Top picks include the crabmeat pudha, rum-soaked lamb chops and grilled shrimp curry. D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; saffronnola.com SHAYA Mediterranean.Contemporary Mediterranean with Southern flair. Fresh-made pita accompanies creamy baba ganoush, smokey labneh and an outstanding hummus selection. L, D (daily). 4609 Magazine St., 504.273.1268. Map 1, D4; shaya restaurant.com

SHOPPING Art Galleries & Antiques ANGELA KING GALLERY One of the French Quarter’s leading contemporary art

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ANTIEAU GALLERY Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; arthurrogergallery.com

Internationally Inspired, Chef Crafted, New Orleans Style Sandwiches

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com CALLAN CONTEMPORARY Works by modern-day American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6; callancontemporary.com

811 Conti St

Killer Poboys 219 Dauphine St 504.462.2731

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com

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KILLER POBOYS

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Shopping

2024

galleries. Sculptors and painters represented include Peter Max, Raymond Douillet, Andy Baird, Woodrow Nash, Aaron Reichert and Patterson & Barnes. 241 Royal St., 504.524.8211. Map 3, F4; angelakinggallery.com

DUTCH ALLEY ARTISTS’ CO-OP This artist-run venue is home to a variety of local crafters specializing in a wide range of media. A great spot for great gift items at great prices. 912 N. Peters St., 504.412.9220. Map 3, H5; dutchalleyartistsco-op.com FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 7910 Royal St., 504.265.8564. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com

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FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP Founded in Paris, this shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4; gofrenchantiques.com KEIL’S ANTIQUES Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewelry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com LEROY’S PLACE A whimsical, weird enclave full of handmade creatures dreamed up by illustrator Serene Bacigalupi. Some are hiding in old paintings; others are displayed as 3D sculpture. 922 Royal St., 504.459.2433; leroysplace.com M.S. RAU ANTIQUES This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com

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MICHALOPOULOS The off-kilter architectural renderings of James Michalopoulos are instantly recognizable. You’ll find them here, along with his figurative paintings, still lifes and landscapes. 617 Bienville St., 504.558.0505. Map 3, E4; michalopoulos.com (MOSTLY) ROCK ’N’ ROLL GALLERY The Clash, David Bowie, the Eurythmics, Freddie Mercury, U2: Steve Rapport’s photo archive reads like a 1980s rock royalty roll call. You’ll also find images of local musicians. 627 St. Peter St. Map 3, G4; mostlyrocknroll.com RODRIGUE STUDIO Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com TERRANCE OSBORNE GALLERY Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com VINTAGE 329 A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com WINDSOR FINE ART This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

Clothing, Hats & Shoes BILLY REID Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com CENTURY GIRL A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous fashions and beautiful designer costume jewelry. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4; centurygirlvintage.com DIRTY COAST Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 630 Chartres St., 504.354.1955. Map 3, G4; 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com H&M The Swedish-based retail chain is known around the globe for its fab fashions and hard-to-resist prices. Women’s, men’s and children’s clothing is featured. 418 N. Peters St., 855.466.7467. Map 3, F5; hm.com JON FLUEVOG “Unique soles for unique souls.” This forward-thinking footwear shop is a “shoe-in” among French Quarter fashionistas and trendy travelers. 321 Chartres St., 504.523.7296. Map 3, F4; fluevog.com MEYER THE HATTER The oldest hat store in the South. Third-generation hat man Sam Meyer and his family offer one of the largest inventories of headwear in the country. 120 St. Charles Ave., 504.525.1048. Map 3, E4; meyerthehatter.com SHOE BE DO Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from

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up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com TASC Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its ecoconscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; tascperformance.com TRASHY DIVA Original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; trashydiva.com

Gifts & Collectibles BUNGALOWS This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items. 610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com DARK MATTER Jars of preserved scorpions. Taxidermy mice, mummified cats and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography. More than 30 regional oddity artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5 DERBY POTTERY & TILE Mark Derby’s elegant Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; derbypottery.com FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby-red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully

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FLEURTY GIRL These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net HOME MALONE A bright, welcoming space filled with Crescent City collectibles (NOLA-themed dish towels, Mardi Gras float flowers), Southern-centric home decor and fun gift items. 4610 Magazine St., 504.766.6148. Map 1, D4; 629 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.324.8352. Map 1, D2; homemalonenola.com

NOLA BOARDS Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. 4228 Magazine St., 504.256.0030. Map 31D4; nolaboards.com NOLA KIDS This children’s boutique offers select apparel for boys and girls, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and other gift items. 526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; shopnolakids.com. PAPIER PLUME It’s only fitting that the French Quarter, with its rich literary history, would be home to a store devoted to fine writing instruments. Imported stationery, Florentine journals, Parisian quills and other desk accessories are featured. 842

504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com

SOUTHERN CANDYMAKERS You can catch a sugar buzz just walking through the door of this French Quarter sweets shop, known for its pralines, toffees and tortues (turtles). 334 Decatur St., 504.523.5544. Map 3, F5; 1010 Decatur St., 504.525.6170. Map 3, H5; southerncandymakers.com

WOODHOUSE DAY SPA The Mid-City branch of this nationwide franchise offers a verity of relaxing body treatments, along with rejuvenating facials and more. 4030 Canal St., 504.482.6652. Map 1, D3; woodhousespas.com

Health & Beauty/Spas AIDAN GILL FOR MEN A fab spot, filled with antique barbershop memorabilia, upscale accessories and top of theline grooming products. The shop specializes in hot-towel shaves. 2026 Magazine St., 504.587.9090. Map 1, D4; aidangillformen.com FIFI MAHONY’S In search of the perfect pink wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby-red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4; fifisbywater.square.site HOVÉ A European-style pafumeur in business for 80-plus years. Among the perfumes, colognes and soaps are one-of-a-kind New Orleans-inspired scents, like Vertivert. 434 Chartres St., 504.525.7827. Map 3, F5; hove parfumeur.com LUSH Its organic products and “fresh market” décor have made the Lush chain and international success. Its New Orleans locations live up to the standard with hard-to-resist bath bombs, soaps and body bars. 532 Royal St., 504.529.5704. Map 3, G4; 3129 Magazine St., 504.899.4089. Map 1, D4; lushusa.com WALDORF ASTORIA SPA This luxe spa offers 10 private treatment rooms and a full menu of body treatments and services. Located on the first floor of the Roosevelt Hotel. 130 Roosevelt Way.,

Jewelry ART & EYES The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com KREWE This locally designed eyewear line, with styles named for New Orleans streets, has garnered a national following. 619 Royal St., 504.407.2925. Map 3, G4; 1818 Magazine St., 504.342.2462. Map 1, D4; krewe.com MIGNON FAGET Designer Faget has created extraordinary jewelry for more than four decades. New Orleans icons and images figure prominently in her work. 3801 Magazine St., 504.891.7545. Map 1, D4; mignonfaget.com PORTER LYONS Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com WELLINGTON & CO. This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855. Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com

Malls/Major Retailers CANAL PLACE Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory Burch, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local shops. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com RIVERWALK OUTLETS Located along the river at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than 70 shops, including Nordstrom Rack and Coach. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalkneworleans.com LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER A favorite shopping stop of New Orleanians, Lakeside is conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport. The mall houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s, Michael Kors and Sephora. 33301 Veterans Blvd., 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; lakesideshopping.com

ATTRACTIONS Attractions & Landmarks ARMSTRONG PARK Named for the jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2 AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; audubonnatureinstitute.org AUDUBON PARK Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at

THE GUIDE

LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

Royal St., 504.988.7265. Map 3, H4; papierplume.com

Shopping/Attractions

outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter. 934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4; fifisbywater.square.site

Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org AUDUBON ZOO Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the top-rated zoos in the nation. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org CEASARS SUPERDOME Home to the New Orleans Saints, the Superdome ranks as the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; caesarssuperdome.com CITY PARK Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Palm Dr., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2; neworleanscitypark.com

AT T R A C T IO N S

CRESCENT PARK Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4-mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; crescent parknola.org FRENCH MARKET America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org HARRAH’S CASINO The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Street. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans JACKSON SQUARE The heart of the French Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5 MARDI GRAS WORLD It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern

32 W HERETRAVELER

Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Daily tours, 9 am-5:30 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; mardigrasworld.com NEW ORLEANS SCHOOL OF COOKING Creole/Cajun cooking demonstrations are offered daily at 10 am and 2 pm. Hands-on and private sessions are also available; reservations required. 524 St. Louis St., 504.525.2665. Map 3, F5; nosoc.com OLD URSULINE CONVENT Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M, Th-Sa, 10 and 11 am and 1 pm. 1112 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; stlouis cathedral.org PONTALBA BUILDINGS Erected in 1851, the stately red-brick townhouses flaking Jackson Square rank as the first apartment complex in the United States. Inspired by the Palais-Royal and the Place des Vosges in Paris, the twin buildings feature apartments upstairs, retail spaces below and ornate cast-iron galleries. Map 3, G5 PRYTANIA THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE This state-of-the-art cinema offers nine screens, along with a full bar and private screenings. 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.290.2658. Map 3, E5; prytaniacanalplace.com SMOOTHIE KING CENTER Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, D8; smoothiekingcenter.com ST. BERNARD PARISH Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State

Park. visitstbernard.com ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org

GALLIER HOUSE The home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered W-M. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; hgghh.org

STUDIO BE Brandan Odums’ giant graffitistyle murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com

HERMANN-GRIMA HOUSE Built in 1831, this house/museum offers a glimpse into New Orleans’ Creole past. The house features the Quarter’s only horse stable and functioning outdoor kitchen. Tours W-M. 820 St. Louis St., 504.274.0750. Map 3, F4; hgghh.org

VUE ORLEANS Along with the highest viewpoint in the city, this one-of-akind, 360º observatory provides a crash course in local history and culture through a variety of immersive exhibits and interactive experiences. Open daily, 10 am-4 pm. 2 Canal St., 504.285.3600. Map 3, E6; vueorleans.com

HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds. A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com

WOLDENBERG PARK This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org

Historic Homes BK HISTORIC HOUSE AND GARDENS This beautifully restored 1826 villa is the former residence of both Confederate General P.G.T. Beauregard and novelist Francis Parkinson Keyes. Tours offered M-Sa, 10 am-3 pm. 1113 Chartres St., 504.523.7257. Map 3, H4; bkhouse.org DESTREHAN PLANTATION A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9:30 am-3 pm; F-Su, 9:30 am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org

NE W ORLE A NS

OAK ALLEY PLANTATION This picturesque Greek Revival mansion, with its 28 evenly spaced 300-year-old live oaks, is a spectacular sight. “The Grande Dame of Great River Road” offers guided tours daily, 9 am-5 pm. 3645 Hwy. 18 Vacherie, La., 888.279.9802; oakalleyplantation.org WHITNEY PLANTATION Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 9:30 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org

Museums BACKSTREET CULTURAL MUSEUM This Tremé space seeks “to keep jazz funerals alive” with memorabilia from famous send-offs, in addition to archival items and photos from second-line parades. Elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes

JA N U A RY 2 0 2 4

CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER The city’s premier modern art exhibit space features rotation exhibits and also plays host to performances. Open W-M, 11 am-5 pm. 900 Camp St., 504.528.3800. Map 3, B6; cacno.org GERMAINE CAZENAVE WELLS MARDI GRAS MUSEUM Carnival pageantry, 1937-1968: lavish gowns, costumes and memorabilia of the late Wells, queen of 26 Mardi Gras balls. Located above Arnaud’s restaurant. Free; open during regular restaurant hours. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-W, 10 am-4 pm; ThSa, 11 am-4 pm. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in 13 Bible Belt states, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org

NEW ORLEANS AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM This repository of African American art, culture and history is located in the Faubourg Tremé, America’s oldest Black neighborhood. Rotating exhibits are featured. Neighborhood tours are also offered. Open ThSu, 11 am-4 pm. 1417-1418 Gov. Nicholls St., 504.218.8254. Map 3, I2; noaam.org NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu-Su (10 am-5 pm); sculpture garden open daily (10 am-5 pm). 1 Collins C. Diboll Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs and phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St.,

504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org SAZERAC HOUSE Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open daily, 11 am-6 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

ENTERTAINMENT Cruises & Tours AIRBOAT ADVENTURES Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickups available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com CITY SIGHTSEEING This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER Daily 2.5-hour Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs form Spanish Plaza (Poydras Street at the Mississippi River). 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com DRINK + LEARN Cocktail historian Elizabeth Pierce leads these fun and informative two-hour tippling tours through the French Quarter. 504.578.8280. drinkandlearn.com FRENCH QUARTER PHANTOMS These guided walking tours cover everything from ghost and vampire lore to cemeteries and music. Tours depart from the Voodoo Lounge; reservations required. 718 N. Rampart St., 504.666.8300. Map 3, H4; frenchquarterphantoms.com

FRIENDS OF THE CABILDO Insightful two-hour walking tours of the French Quarter are offered daily at 10:30 am and 1:30 pm. Departs from the 1850 House museum store. 523 St. Ann St., 504.523.3939. Map 3, G5; friendsofthecabildo.org GATORS AND GHOSTS This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 728 St. Louis St., 888.481.8188. Map 3, F4; gatorsandghosts.com GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, River Cruises— and all possible combinations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com HAUNTED HISTORY TOURS Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75 Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com BAR MARILOU With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for

THE GUIDE

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibitions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org

Attractions/Entertainment/Nightlife

are also on display. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 1531 St. Philip St., 504.657.6700. Map 3, I2; backstreetmuseum.org

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329 Royal St, New Orleans 504.525.2262 WWW.VINTAGE329.COM

Historic Algiers Point

SCAN FOR RESERVATIONS

125 BOURBON STREET DINE IN. TAKE OUT. DELIVERY.

sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar bites. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com CAROUSEL BAR Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) and was a favorite of such literary lights as Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote. 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; hotelmonteleone.com CHANDELIER BAR The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans

N IG H T L IF E

THE COLUMNS This historic property oozes elegance. Grab a seat at the moody mahogany bar or settle into a courtyard table and listen to the streetcar rumble by, while sipping stellar cocktails and noshing on standout small plates. 3811 St. Charles Ave., 504.899.9308. Map 1, D4; thecolumns.com DOUBLE DEALER Tucked beneath the Orpheum Theater, this modern-day speakeasy woos with curtained booths, secret nooks and a wide-ranging lineup of entertainment. 129 Roosevelt Way, 504.300.0212. Map 3, E3; doubledealernola.com EFFERVESCENCE This bubbly spot features 90plus bottles of sparkling wine, along with reds, whites and a variety of small plates. 1036 N. Rampart St., 504.509.7644. Map 3, H3; nolabubbles.com FIVES This European-inspired drinking salon in Jackson Square’s historic Pontalba Buildings serves up both classic and original quaffs, a variety of oysters, caviar and other raw bar options. 29 St. Ann St. Map 3, H5; fives.bar HERMES BAR This hedonistic hideaway inside Antoine’s restaurant offers quiet respite from the din on

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nearby Bourbon Street, great ambiance and knowledgeable bartenders. 713 St Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, G4; antoines.com HOT TIN Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the playwright once stayed here), this cozy space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails, wine by the glass and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3; hottinbar.com LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com PAT O’BRIEN’S Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com THE PENTHOUSE CLUB This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com R BAR This unpretentious watering hole is a favorite among locals and visitors who happen by during the free Friday seafood boils. Drop in on Mondays for a haircut…and a shot. 1431 Royal St., 504.948.7499. Map 3, J4; royalstreetinn.com SAZERAC BAR Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com

THE WILL & THE WAY Tucked between Bourbon and Royal, this easy-to-overlook gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated menu of both small and large plates. 2719 Toulouse St. Map 3, G4; thewillandtheway.com

Live Entertainment APPLE BARREL BAR This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J4 BLUE NILE This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com THE FILLMORE Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue, which features top-tier national touring acts. 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com FRITZEL’S A German jazz club? Only in New Orleans. Tradition jazz by local musicians as well as visiting European bands is featured. 733 Bourbon St., 504.586.4800. Map 3, H4; fritzelsjazz.net HOUSE OF BLUES The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured; retro burlesque on Fridays. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com/jazzplayhouse

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MAPLE LEAF A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com PRESERVATION HALL Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com REPUBLIC NOLA One of downtown’s hottest nightspots. Bands, touring and local, share the stage with a latenight dance club. 828 S. Peters St., 504.528.8282. Map 3, C6; republicnola.com SNUG HARBOR An intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4; snugjazz.com THE SPOTTED CAT This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 4 pm on weekdays (3 pm on weekends) and continues way into the night. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com THREE MUSES This venue offers a veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, a smattering of small plates and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; 3musesnola.com TIPITINA’S The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com TOULOUSE THEATRE This French Quarter music venue takes its name from a former cinema in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting performers from around the globe. 615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771. Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com

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Abbeville

Lake Maurepas 55

Laplace

New Iberia

14 90

3127

310

Thibodaux

182 82

Franklin

Metairie

Houma

Kenner

Lafitte

Raceland

New Orleans

Vermilion Bay

1 59

Slidell

Lake Pontchartrain 10

Napoleonville

Covington Abita 41 Springs 22 Mandeville

182

167

Hammond 12

Folsom

Plaquemine

10 90

165

E 51

Baton Rouge 190

190

Baker

61 1

Opelousas

Eunice

190

71 167

39 23

1 24

Gulf of Mexico

Port Sulphur

Atchafalaya Bay

Barataria Bay

Cailou Bay

Grand Isle

Buras-Triumph Venice

Gulf of Mexico

Terrebonne Bay

10 mi 10 km

THE GUIDE

Gretna

NEW ORLEANS MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER A

LSU Health Sciences Center

Caesars Superdome

Smoothie King Center N.O. Pelicans

Joy Theater HS

Orpheum Theater

Cancer Survivors Park

ola

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etc

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Civic Theatre

Canal Streetcar Line

Rampart Streetcar Line

LP VH

OV FP RS

St Louis Cathedral

La. Supreme OO Court Building

QC FI

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Museum of the ee Str Southern Jewish rles Experience Cha

St.

Madison

TULANE & LOYOLA UNIVERSITY

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ine

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RH DR

Wilkinson

N EW O R L E A N S M AP

Champions Square

HE WC

Toulouse St. Wharf

Canal WO OE Place

LE CA LW

National WWII Museum

Audubon Aquarium & Insectarium

HH RE

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Riverwalk Outlets

Canal St Ferry Landing

Poydras St. Wharf

Cana

l St

Ferr

HG HP

Girod St.

Riverfront Wharf Streetcar Line HA

Julia St. Cruise Terminal & Parking Garage

38 W HERETRAVELE R

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New Orleans International Cruise Terminal 1/8 mi 200 m

JA N U A RY 2 0 2 4

Maps

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4 AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5 AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4 AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4 BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4 LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3 BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5 BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5 BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5 BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4 CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6 CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4 CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3 K CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7 DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3 CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4 DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3 DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5 1 DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4 EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5 EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7 FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4 FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6 FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5 HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4 HQ Hampton Inn French Quarter Market, 501 Elysian Fields Ave., 381-0041 J5 HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8 HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6 HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6 2 HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4 HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7 HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7 SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4 FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5 HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3 HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3 HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5 HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4 HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3 3 HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5 HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6 LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4 MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4 PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5 PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5 SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4 SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3 HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4 HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7 4 HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3 IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4 IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5 JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4 JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2 LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5 PP LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5 LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6 LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4 LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6 5 MG Magnolia Hotel, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5 MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5 MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3 MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4 MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7 ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4 t S 90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4 ain ve A e NO AvNOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4 Sp h c n i l Ro FrankOV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3 St OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7 OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4 6 OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6 PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5 PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4 PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4 QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5 RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6 PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4 RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6 RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4 RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3 7 Street Direction RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4 French Quarter RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4 RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4 SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5 ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5 SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7 Jazzy Passes VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4 1 day - $3 WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4 3 day - $9 8 WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5 31 day - 55 WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5 Ride RTA buses and streetcars as WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6 much as you’d like. WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4 K WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

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Ma St

FS LK SP

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Madison

t eS

Wilkinson

N.O. Jazz Museum/ HM Old U.S. Mint

French Market

l ya Ro

Gov. Nicholls St. Wharf

Riverfront Streetcar Line

Crescent Park

KEY HM

Transit Routes

Hotel

Riverfront - $1.25 St. Charles - $1.25 Magazine - $1.25 Canal St - $1.25 Loyola - $1.25 Rampart - $1.25

BK Historic CY House

St Louis Cathedral

THE GUIDE

lau

C St

Room With a Vue Vue Orleans (p. 32), atop the Four Seasons Hotel, offers unparalleled 360° views of the city, spanning from the riverfront to the lakefront.

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PARTING SHOT

40 W HERETRAVELER

NE W ORLE A NS

JA N U A RY 2 0 2 4

CHANEL vintage collection

329 Royal St New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 525-2262

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