Where Magazine New Orleans October 2023

SANDWICH

New

Picasso

Mr. Brainwash

Jose Basso

Rembrandt

SOUND + LIGHT EXPERIENCE

Expressions of America is an immersive, sound and light show that combines cutting-edge technology and special effects with the real words and stories of everyday people who made a tremendous impact during a time of monumental conflict.

Tickets on sale now!

Tickets on sale now!

expressionsofamerica.org

From meatpacked muffulettas to overstuffed bagels, New Orleans has a taste for sandwiches

Out + About

Five fun outdoor festivals and four Halloween haunts.

Exploring Witches’ Row

Searching for spirit boards? Need a good gris-gris bag? You’ll find it on this magical stretch of Decatur Street.

A stacked sandwich sampler from Francolini’s. ©KAT KIMBALL PHOTOGRAPHY/FRANCOLINI’S

VISIT THE HISTORIC FRENCH MARKET DISTRICT

Long before French explorers founded New Orleans in 1718, Native Americans had established a bustling trading post on the site of what is now known as the French Market. e nation’s oldest public market continues to thrive today, with a variety of fresh produce vendors, eateries, ea market stalls, stand-alone shops and popular annual events, such as the Creole Tomato Festival. In addition to the open-air market, the French Market District includes the Upper Pontalba Buildings surrounding Jackson Square (the rst apartment complex in the U.S.), the Shops of the Colonnade and the riverfront Crescent Park. For a full lineup of o erings and free events, visit frenchmarket.org.

VENDOR SPOTLIGHT

Dutch Alley

Artist’s Co-op

New Orleans artist Joy Gauss ’ original, raku-fired clay art, while celebrating art in life, seeks to build a narrative through old and new shared memories. Gauss combines hand-building with wheel work often extending or altering clay. Original drawings, textures, words and clay forms are layered onto the surfaces to tell a story.

MARKET MERCH

Specializing in handpoured candles, original art and handmade jewelry, OMG!, a quintessential French Quarter shop in the Upper Pontalba Building at 542 St. Peter Street at Jackson Square, has something unique for just about everyone. OMG!’s carefully curated New Orleans-inspired candle scents evoke the best of the Crescent City no matter your location.

WHAT’S HAPPENING

September 16

October 21

Boo Carré

Halloween Haunt

Bring the family to the French Market for a spooktaculur day of trick-or-treating, live music and activities for all ages. Costuming is encouraged!

November 4

Fall Harvest Fest

Celebrate the bounty of south Louisiana with fresh farm-to-table produce and regional live music. Free and open to the public.

© ZACK SMITH

True confession: I’m not a huge po’boy fan. ere, I said it. I know, I know: It borders on blasphemy in this city, but honestly, they are generally just too bready for me. After a couple of bites, I tend to pluck out the lling to eat separately. Now, mu ulettas on the other hand….

Fortunately, this is no longer just a two-sandwich town. Sure, po’boys and mu ulettas abound on local menus, but, as food writer Lorin Gaudin reports, “while the local classics reign supreme, there’s no denying the New Orleans sandwich scene has evolved.” From spot-on New Jersey subs to spicey Indian chicken, old-school fried bologna to game-changing po’boys, there’s something for almost every appetite and “a lot to digest.”

Elsewhere in this issue, we spotlight ve great autumn festivals out of the near-dozen taking place around town during October and o er suggestions for fright- lled Halloween fun. Delving even deeper into the city’s dark side, contributor Jenny Adams takes a mystical walk along upper Decatur Street. In the market for tarot cards, smudge sticks, travel altars or a little psychic one-on-one time? You’ll nd it all and then some.

Janelle Monáe, Depeche Mode, the Lost Bayou Ramblers, “ e Rocky Horror Picture Show,” Saints home games, a new Broadway-bound musical based on the life and loves of Louis Armstrong—there is indeed a lot digest this month. Get out and dig in!

PUBLISHER

Lois Sutton, 504.522.6468, lois.sutton@morris.com

EDITOR

Doug Brantley

ART DIRECTOR

Hadley Kincaid

CONTRIBUTORS

Jenny Adams, Shawn Fink, Lorin Gaudin, Terri Simon

ACCOUNT MANAGER Vincent Tortorich, 504.522.6468, vincent.tortorich@morris.com

A PUBLICATION OF MCC MAGAZINES, LLC a division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 735 Broad Street, Augusta, GA 30901

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PRESIDENT Tina Battock

VICE PRESIDENT

Scott Ferguson

DIRECTOR — MANUFACTURING & PRODUCTION

Sherry Brown

ACCOUNTING MANAGER

Veronica Brooks

CIRCULATION BUSINESS MANAGER

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MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS COMPANY, LLC

CHAIRMAN

William S. Morris III CEO Craig S. Mitchell

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CALENDAR

TOP STOPS

CIVIC THEATRE

LINEUP

WHAT’S HAPPENING THE

GREAT THINGS

Fashioning America: Grit to Glamour

All Month

The New Orleans Museum of Art morphs into a mini Met Gala with this salute to the garment industry, showcasing more than 100 U.S. designers and labels from the 19th century to the 21st. noma.org

New Orleans Saints

Oct. 1 & 19

The Bayou State takes on the Sunshine State at the Caesars Superdome this month, with the Black and Gold squaring off against both the Tampa Bay Buccaneers and the Jacksonville Jaguars. Games are preceded by a free fan fest at the Dome-adjacent Champions Square. caesars superdome.com

Janelle Monáe

Oct. 7

Singer, songwriter, actress: Is there anything the multitalented Monáe can’t

OCTOBER 1-8

A WONDERFUL WORLD 7

e trademark trumpet, the twinkling eyes, the signature smile: Most people know Louis Armstrong simply as the King of Jazz. But his four wives—Daisy Parker, Lil Hardin, Alpha Smith and Lucille Wilson— knew a much more complex side of the man. is new Broadway-bound musical examines the professional triumphs as well as the personal failings of the late jazz great through the often-contradictory perspectives of the women he loved. Tony winner James Monroe Inglehart (“Aladdin”) takes on the star role at the Saenger eater. saengernola.com

Oct. 14: Pinky Patel; Oct. 25: Unknown Mortal Orchestra. civicnola.com

HOUSE OF BLUES

Oct. 9: Rina Sawayama; Oct. 26: Here Come the Mummies; Oct. 27: Michelle Branch. hob.com

JOY THEATER

Oct. 8: CloZee; Oct. 11: Ethel Cain; Oct. 15: Raye; Oct. 17: Johnnyswim; Oct. 28: Chappell Roan. thejoytheater.com

MAHALIA JACKSON THEATER

Oct. 10: Snarky Puppy; Oct. 28: “The Rocky Horror Picture Show.” mahalia jacksontheater.com

ORPHEUM THEATRE

do? Not in our book. Judge for yourself when she pulls into the Orpheum on her “The Age of Pleasure” tour. orpheumnola.com

Depeche Mode

Oct. 7

The 1990s live on at the Smoothie King Center with the venerable synth-pop group taking the arena stage in support of their 15th album, “Memento Mori.” smoothiekingcenter.com

Get Out Live

Oct. 12-13

Jordan Peele’s Oscar-winning psychological thriller gets the star treatment, with the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra performing Michael Abels’

score while the movie rolls. orpheumnola.net

Lost Bayou Ramblers

Oct. 21

Cajun country comes to town when the high-energy, Grammy-winning group two-steps into Tipitina’s. Wear your dancing shoes. tipitinas.com

The Rocky Horror Picture Show

Oct. 28

Dammit, Janet, can “Rocky Horror” really be nearing 50? Celebrate the cult classic’s 48th anniversary with a screening of the original unedited lm and do the “Time Warp” again with Brad Majors—actor Barry Bostwick—in attendance. mahaliajacksontheater.com

Oct. 7: Janelle Monáe; Oct. 12-13 “Get Out” Live; Oct. 17: Mt. Joy; Oct. 18: Kesha; Oct. 31: My Morning Jacket. orpheumnola.net

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER

Oct. 7: Depeche Mode; Oct. 12: The 1975; Oct. 20: Alabama; Oct. 26: Maluma. smoothiekingcenter.com

SAENGER THEATER

Oct. 14: Leanne Morgan; Oct. 27: Heilung; Oct. 28: Celtic Thunder. saenger nola.com

TIPITINA’S

Oct. 1: Jon Cleary & the Monster Gentlemen; Oct. 6: Beat the System; Oct. 13: The Soul Rebels; Oct. 21: Lost Bayou Ramblers. tipitinas.com

“A WONDERFUL WORLD” N.O. SAINTS

Big Easy Bread Winners

Move over muffulettas and po’boys, there are some new sandwich contenders in town LORIN GAUDIN

There are few things more simple or delicious than a sandwich. Think squishy white bread, mayo, mustard, deli meats and cheese; or mayo and slabs of vine-ripened tomatoes. New Orleans’ sandwich signatures—the po’boy and the muffuletta—both have hotly debated origin stories, and no matter which tale rings true, there is one undeniable fact: Sandwiches are more than a convenience food, they’re a serious meal.

While the local classics reign supreme, there’s no denying the New Orleans sandwich scene has evolved. Get ready, open wide and take a big bite; there’s a lot to digest.

THE CONTEMPORARIES

FRANCOLINI’S

A recent addition to the Tchoupitoulas Street landscape, this shop's menu offers hot and cold sandwich options, as well as go-alongs like chips and cookies. From

the cold side, the Elmer Fudd combines a lot of contrasting elements (prosciutto, marinated artichokes, arugula, mustard vinaigrette) best eaten on the house-made focaccia. From the hot selection, the Travis is sweet Italian sausage, garlicky broccoli rabe, fiery red pepper flakes and creamy provolone. Heaven.

francolinisnola.com

THE RABBIT’S FOOT

A popular upmarket “bodega” with everything from chips to cookies, skincare to household stuff, known for all sorts of beverages (espresso, wines and bubbly) and serious sandwiches. Any time of day is great for the breakfast-inspired Egg on a Roll, but other top picks are a piled high BLT or the Chicken Salad on a brioche bun with house pickles and a pecan-herb vinaigrette. rabbitsfootnola.com

WONDERLAND & SEA

Another newbie on Tchoupitoulas. Here, it’s all about things from land and sea. Hook a

FROM LEFT: THE RABBIT'S FOOT'S CHICKEN SALAD AND THE SAM FROM STEIN'S

Drum Sandwich (griddled or fried), which comes topped with crisp cabbage, bread and butter pickles and the “house wonder sauce” on a locally made, Viola’s Heritage bun. eatatwonderland.com

FLOUR MOON BAGELS

Now considered a Mid-City staple, Flour Moon is beloved for its homemade bagels, cream cheese(s) and special bagelwiches. Choosing from the regular menu items can be a challenge—they’re all good— but that Bluebird (your choice of bagel with smoked turkey, jalapeno cream cheese, blueberry jam, arugula and pickled hot banana peppers) is on repeat. flourmoon bagels. com

TAVA INDIAN STREET FOOD

Over in the South Market District, chef Manish Patel’s Tava has a menu

of contemporary Indian dishes that includes a sandwich worth chomping. The Chicken 65 is a two-handsneeded behemoth of fried spiced chicken, pickled cucumbers, fiery garlic slaw and cilantro on a warm, rich brioche bun. tavanola.com

1000 FIGS

The Bayou St. John neighborhood is sandwich mecca for this petite eatery’s perfectly fried falafel (mashed chickpea and herb fritters), mounded into fresh, warm pita bread with a garnish of cucumber salad, pickled vegetables, sesame tahini, herbaceous zhoug and garlicky toum. 1000figs.com

THE CLASSICS

STEIN’S MARKET AND DELI

Recently featured on “Queer Eye,” Dan Stein is a semi-cranky/sleepy

long-standing deli owner who happens to be one of the most kind-hearted people in hospitality. He’s also the guy whose image became an oddly humorous tattoo on Mason Hereford (Turkey and the Wolf). Most important, Dan’s deli turns out stellar sky-high sandwiches. It’s hard to pass up his version of a Muphuletta or the really good Tuna Melt, but the Sam— hot pastrami, Swiss, coleslaw and Russian dressing on rye—is Stein’s siren song. steinsdeli.com

CENTRAL GROCERY

Muffuletta fanatics rejoice for the planned fall reopening of this French Quarter institution. While waiting, the famous round muff can be nabbed at area food retailers and the airport. If by some chance the opening is delayed, hit Napoleon House, Stein’s, Verti Marte or

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: TAVA'S CHICKEN 65; MORTADELLA, BURRATA, PISTACHIO PESTO AND ARUGULA PILED ON A FLOUR MOON BAGEL; AND 1000 FIGS' LOADED FALAFEL PITA

TURKEY AND THE WOLF

Just off Magazine Street on Jackson Avenue sits this highly touted, stoner-food (their motto is “get high and stop on by”) joint. If owner Mason Hereford is on hand, ask to see his Stein tattoo. Kitschy and clever, from the plates to the salt and pepper shakers to the food, must-try sandwiches include the Fried Bologna with potato chips or our pick, the Collard Melt, a hot sandwich of slow-cooked collards, Swiss cheese, pickled cherry pepper dressing and coleslaw on rye. turkeyandthewolf.com

ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY

The city’s first serious cheese shop also serves great sandwiches. There are lots of favorites, but standouts are the Hook’s Cheddar (stacked sliced smoked turkey, avocado, cheddar and herb mayo) and the Smokey Blue (rare roast beef, house-smoked blue cheese, tomato, greens and Worcestershire mayo on whole grain toast). stjamescheese.com

KILLER POBOYS

The French Quarter got that much more interesting when Killer long ago launched a menu of riffs on classics. Its version of a sausage po’boy, the Chorizo 13, partners

spiced chorizo, chile-lime aioli, pumpkin seed hummus, pickled red cabbage, fresh jalapenos and crumbly farmers’-style white cheese. The Seared Gulf Shrimp is a Vietnamese-style banh mi twist with seared shrimp, pickled vegetables and spicy mayo on a pistolette. killerpoboys.com

LIUZZA’S BY THE TRACK

A Bayou St. John bar/restaurant requirement for great cocktails, gumbo and this sandwich: the famous BBQ Shrimp PoBoy. Think shrimp sauteed in a bath of butter and spices, tucked into a French bread pistolette. ’Nuf said. liuzzasbtt.com

(CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) ©WILLIAM HEREFORD; ©CHERYL GERBER; ©LORIN GAUDIN

Cochon Butcher for alternative renditions. centralgrocery.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: TURKEY AND THE WOLF'S FRIED BOLOGNA WITH POTATO CHIPS, KILLER POBOYS' SEARED GULF SHRIMP AND ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY'S SMOKEY BLUE

Best of the Fests

Louisiana mounts more annual festivals than there are days in the year. You’ll nd close to a dozen taking place in and around the city this month alone. Here are ve not to miss:

NATIONAL FRIED CHICKEN FESTIVAL

Sept. 30-Oct. 1

Chicken, chicken is what you’re gettin’ at this family a air along the lakefront, which also o ers live music, cooking demos and discussions, a beer garden and a custom car show. friedchickenfestival.com

GRETNA FEST

Oct. 6-8

Now in its 29th year, this Westbank throwdown features 60-plus great music acts performing on three stages along the riverfront, backed by 50-plus food vendors. Trombone Shorty, Lynyrd Skynard and Kool & the Gang headline. gretnafest.com

CRESCENT CITY BLUES AND BBQ FESTIVAL

Oct. 13-15

Smokin’ hot blues is on the menu at Lafayette Square, along with some of the region’s best barbecue. Tab Benoit, the Honey Island Swamp

GET YOUR GHOUL ON

Band, Samantha Fish, Little Freddie King—dig in! jazzandheritage.org /events/crescent-city-bluesbbq-festival

NOLA FUNK FEST

Oct. 20-22

e New Orleans Jazz Museum hosts this “coming out party” for the in-the-works Louisiana Music & Heritage Experience. Local Grammy greats Leo Nocentelli, Irma omas, George Porter, Jr. and the Dirty Dozen Brass Band are joined by 17 additional acts on dualing stages. nolafunkfest.com

TOP TACO

Oct. 23

Tacos—both traditional and creative—are the order at Metairie’s Lafreniere Park, along with top-shelf tequilas, Latin- avored live music and a little burlesque and lucha libre wrestling for extra-added fun. More than 30 area eateries battle it out for top honors. toptaconola.com

Halloween in “America’s most haunted city” means a month full of frightful fun. Historic Gallier House (hgghh.org) provides insight into 19th-century funereal customs with its monthlong Creole Death & Mourning Tour, which gets extra spooky on Saturday evenings during after-dark excursions. rills and chills are also provided throughout the month at the Mortuary Haunted Mansion (themortuary.net), located in a real-deal former funeral parlor at dead end of Canal Street. Something more kid friendly? e frightfully fun Krewe of Boo Parade (kreweofboo.com) rolls through the French Quarter Oct. 21 at 6:30 pm, preceded by the French Market’s free Boo Carré Halloween Haunt (frenchmarket.org), which features costuming, trick-or-treating and other family-oriented activities, from 11 am to 4 pm.

FROM TOP: THE CRESCENT CITY BLUES & BBQ FESTIVAL AND THE KREWE OF BOO PARADE

WHERE NOW

Explore Witches’ Row

Set off on a magical mystery tour along upper Decatur Street

Jenny Adams

There’s something dark and romantic about getting a tarot reading in a building more than 200 years old. Or learning about voodoo and gris-gris from a descendant of a healer in Haiti. From a shop devoted entirely witches and casting spells to a medium who has made multiple television appearances, the last three blocks of Decatur Street are a destination for those looking to delve into other realms.

HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY

Whether you are a serious devotee in the world of Wicca or merely a curious onlooker, this shop is a fun stop for any visitor. Push through the weathered doors into an incense-filled emporium helmed by practitioners Christian Day and Brian Cain, both warlocks who have been featured on CNN and USA Today. Their staff will

help you learn about witchcraft and astrology, craft spells, book a psychic reading and shop for specialty ritual ingredients, from roots to oils. The shop offers experts in herbalism—a core belief in witchcraft—and divination tools like crystal balls and spirit boards.

1219 DECATUR ST., 504.613.0558; HEXWITCH.COM

SASSY MAGICK

The shelves here are crammed with mystical items and tiny takeaway gifts—from travel alters to body glitter, witches hats to guidance books. The décor is happy, with accent swaths of pink paint and racks of glittery jewelry. It makes Sassy Magick a cheerful shop, welcoming to all. “We opened in October of 2022,” says co-owner Miss Shannon, who, alongside her husband, realized a lifelong dream in otherworldly re-

tail. “Although there are a number of wonderful magic shops in New Orleans, we wanted to offer something a little different,” Shannon explains. “A place where magic is accessible to everyone, and an inclusive shop, where we offer the silly side of things, but also cater to the seasoned practitioner. We like to say that we are the perfect mix of ‘American Horror Story: Coven’ and ‘The Craft’ with Hello Kitty.” In-store readings, occult and energy classes, candle dressing courses and Reiki healing, led by on-staff practitioners, are all offered and easy to book in advance online.

1301 DECATUR ST., 504.354.1165; SASSYMAGICK.COM

CRESCENT CITY CONJURE

Interested in authentic voodoo? Want to learn about Haiti’s religious influence on the city of New

(LEFT) ©JENNY ADAMS; (RIGHT) ©SHAWN FINK

Orleans? Curious about gris-gris, conjuring and root work? This is one of the best options in the city. The staff spends time with everyone, from novices to experts, looking to find the right spiritual baths for cleansing and curing. You can acquire information on how to properly smudge or use a divination tool, like a pendulum or tarot cards. The shop also offers readings by appointment-only, as well as monthly one-off courses, ranging from conjure practices at ancestor altars to understanding and connecting with a shamanic path.

1224

OMEN: PSYCHIC PARLOR AND WITCHCRAFT EMPORIUM

With shops in Salem, Massachusetts and New Orleans, this

store is helmed by the same warlocks who own and operate neighboring Hex—Brian Cain and Christian Day. Both authors, they feature not only their own signed titles, but those of other practitioners of witchcraft and spiritual/magical genres. Omen is part of the group that hosts the annual HexFest here each August and the Festival of the Dead, month-long October gatherings of witches and spiritual practitioners in Salem. On any given day Coven visitors will find not only the history of magic and spells in Creole culture, but work that reaches as far back as ancient Egypt, in addition to candles, jewelry, clothing and a range of readings that can be booked.

1205 DECATUR ST., 504.322.7440; OMENSALEM.COM

FRENCH QUARTER VOODOO/ CATHERINA WILLIAMS

Clairvoyant Catherina Williams has been sought out for readings, cleansings and clearings by hundreds for more than five decades. She has appeared on multiple major TV shows, was regularly featured in the V.I.P. section at the (now-defunct) Voodoo Music Experience and holds the Guinness World Record for creating the largest voodoo doll (28 feet, 8 inches). From bone casting to tarot to crystal ball readings, her divination and magic healing comes via local and international education in a range of intuitive practices. Those wishing to seek her knowledge can get in touch by phone or email, or simply stop by her doorway.

1233 DECATUR ST., 504.710.5487; FRENCHQUARTERVOODOO.COM

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: CRESCENT CITY CONJURE, OMEN: PSYCHIC PARLOR AND WITCHCRAFT EMPORIUM AND CATHERINA WILLIAMS’ FRENCH QUARTER VOODOO OPPOSITE PAGE FROM LEFT: SASSY MAGICK AND HEX: OLD WORLD WITCHERY

DECATUR ST., 504.421.3189; CRESCENTCITYCONJURE.US

GO NUTS!

Peanut Butter Budino with caramel ganache, pretzel and cream cheese whip from Josephine Estelle (p. 19). As of press time, the following listings were up to date but subject to change.

DINING

Central Business/ Warehouse District BÉSAME

Latin. Chef Nanyo Dominguez’s Latin American menu covers a lot of ground: Oaxacan-style ceviche, crispy cauliflower tapas, Yucatan pork. For big appetites, the seafood paella more than satisfies. L (ThSu), D (Th-M). 110 S. Rampart St., 504.308.0880. Map 3, E3; besame-nola.com

BREWERY SAINT X

American. In addition to house-brewed beers this brewery/bar/restaurant offers kicked-up apps (smoked fish dip with crab boil potato chips), an easy-to-digest selection of salads and sandwiches (eggplant and burrata). L (TuSu), D (nightly). 734 Loyola Ave., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; brewerysaintx.com

CHEMIN À LA MER

Louisiana. French for “path to the sea,” chef Donald Link’s gorgeous Four Seasons space offers incredible views of the Mississippi, a well-stocked raw bar and top-tier steaks. B, L D (daily). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5898. Map 3, E7; cheminalamer.com

COCHON

Louisiana. Many restaurants profess to be “better than your mama’s,” but chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s lives up to the claim with haute twists on Cajun standards. The adjacent Cochon Butcher offers sandwiches and housecured meats. L, D (daily). 930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.588.2123. Map 3, B7; cochonrestaurant.com

COMPÈRE LAPIN

Caribbean. A native of St. Lucia, chef Nina Compton’s island upbringing is evident in dishes such as jerk corn, blackened pig ears and curried goat with sweet potato gnocchi. D (nightly); Br (Su). 535 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.599.2119. Map 3, C6; comperelapin.com

COPPER VINE

American. Along with 30 varietals on tap and an additional 20 by the glass, this

easygoing “wine pub” serves up duck fat fries, a wide variety of flatbreads and heartier fare, such as Gulf fish amandine. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1001 Poydras St., 504.208.9535. Map 3, C4; coppervine.com

COUVANT

French. A slick, contemporary French bistro inside the Eliza Jane hotel. Standouts include gougères with truffled Mornay sauce, escargot en croute and steak frites. L (M-Th), D (TuSa); Br (F-Su). 317 Magazine St., 504.342.2316. Map 3, D5; couvant.com

THE DAILY BEET

Vegetarian. Light, healthy eats and cold-pressed juices are the draw at these hip cafés. Tuck into a shaved Brussels sprouts salad or an Orbit Bowl of warm wild rice, avocado, runny egg, kimchi and pickled veg. B, L (daily). 1000 Girod St., 504.605.4413. Map 3, C4; B, L, D (daily). 3300 Magazine St., 504.766.0377. Map 1, D4; thedailybeetnola.com

DEVIL MOON BBQ

Barbecue. Pop into this daytime operation for counter service of barbecue plates, sandwiches and sides. Start with the meaty-fatty pork cracklings, followed by juicy brisket, tender ribs and homemade sausage. L (Tu-Su). 1188 Girod St., 504.788.0093. Map 3, B4; devilmoonbbq.com

DOMENICA

Italian. Out-of-the-norm antipasti (roasted cauliflower with whipped feta), handmade pastas, authentic pizzas and Old World classics. Mangia, mangia! L, D (daily). 123 Baronne St., 504.648.6020. Map 3, E3; domenicarestaurant.com

EMERIL’S

Louisiana. Emeril Lagasse’s flagship set the course for the Lagasse empire. Opened in 1990, the restaurant is now under the helm of his son, E.J., whose top-notch team turns out a variety of ever-changing, multicourse tasting menus. D (Tu-Sa). 800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.528.9393. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com

GIANNA

Italian. The focus here is on homey, rustic Italian cuisine. Chopped salad, meatballs in red gravy, lamb-and-mushroom lasagna, veal saltimbocca; finish with a gelato and biscotti. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 Magazine St., 504.399.0816. Map 3, C6; giannarestaurant.com

GRAND ISLE

Seafood. This comfy seafood house boasts such standouts as smoked fried oysters, hot crab dip and other Southern favorites. Grab a seat at the bar for shrimp by the pound and cold beer from taps encased in ice. L (F-Su), D (W-Su). 575 Convention Center Blvd., 504.520.8530. Map 3, D6; grandislerestaurant.com

HERBSAINT

French. One of the city’s premier fine dining spots. The award-winning menu changes frequently, with entrées ranging from confit of Muscovy duck leg with dirty rice and citrus gastrique to chili-glazed pork belly with Beluga lentils and mint. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 701 St. Charles Ave., 504.524.4114. Map 3, C5; herbsaint.com

JOHNNY

SÁNCHEZ

Mexican. Cauliflower tacos, duck enchiladas, yellowfin tuna tostadas: Celebrity chef Aarón Sánchez’s Poydras Street hot spot puts contemporary spins on standard taqueria fare. L (Su-F), D (nightly). 930 Poydras St., 504.304.6615. Map 3, C4; johnnysanchezrestaurant.com

JOSEPHINE ESTELLE

Italian. At this casual Ace Hotel eatery, oysters are roasted in Calabrian chili butter, the meatballs combine beef with pancetta, the pastas are toothy, and each dish has some beautifully surprising element that lingers long after the meal. B, L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Carondelet St., 504.930.3070. Map 3, C5; josephineestelle.com

KING BRASSERIE

French. Crawfish beignets with crab fat aioli, Gulf fish with smoked lardon, shrimp and collard greens: Louisiana ingredients inform French

favorites at this Rivera-inspired brasserie. Beautiful desserts. B, L, D (daily). 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.571.1818. Map 3, D6; kingbrasserieandbar.com

LUFU NOLA

Indian. Modern Indian means a flavor-punched menu that spans regions and defines boundaries. Start with the pani puri (crisp semolina shells filled with potato, peas and tamarind-mint water), followed by fried masala squid and curried lamb shank. D (Th-Tu). 301 St. Charles Ave., 504.354.1104. Map 3, D4; lufunola.com

MAYPOP

Eclectic. Chef Michael Gulotta (MoPho) expands on his Asianfusion food theme in a bright, open space with an industrialterrarium vibe. Dig into fried oysters with bourbon-soy ailoi or caramel-glazed sticky pork shoulder. D (nightly). 611 O’Keefe St., 504.518.6345. Map 3, B4; maypoprestaurant.com

MERIL

International. Emeril Lagasse’s casual dining venue is reflective of the chef’s world travels, with a globetrotting menu featuring everything from Greek salad to Korean fried chicken wings to meatballs with whipped ricotta. L (F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 424 Girod St., 504.526.3745. Map 3, C6; emerilsrestaurants.com/meril

MISS RIVER

Louisiana. Chef Alon Shaya’s culinary love letter to the city includes renditions of local classics like the muffuletta and oyster patty, along with dramatic share-with-the-table whole fried chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; missrivernola.com

NOLA CAYE

Caribbean. At this islandinspired space loads of seafood options and a strong taco list sit opposite Cuban sandwiches, braised oxtails and grilled jerk fish. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 898 Baronne St., 504.302.1302. Map 3, B5; nolacaye.com

PÊCHE

Seafood. The focus here is on chef Ryan Prewitt’s simple seafood grilled over hardwood coals...and it couldn’t be better. From the raw bar to the whole fish, you can’t go wrong. L, D (daily). 800 Magazine St., 504.522.1744. Map 3, C6; pecherestaurant.com

POKE LOA

Hawaiian. This bright spot offers build-your-own poke bowls of tuna, yellowtail, salmon and/or tofu cubes atop fresh greens and rice, veggies and array of garnishes. L, D (MF). 939 Girod St., 504.571.5174. Map 3, B4; L, D (daily). 3341 Magazine St., 504.309.9993. Map 1, D4; eatpokeloa.com

RESTAURANT AUGUST

Contemporary. Fine dining at its finest. The surroundings are elegant, and the food is spectacular, combining European style with Gulf Coast ingredients for dishes, such as gnocchi with truffles and crab. D (nightly). 301 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.299.9777. Map 3, E5; restaurantaugust.com

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK

HOUSE

Louisiana. Founded in 1965, this Crescent City classic, famed for its superb sizzling steaks and seafood, now has locations around the world. L, D (daily). 525 Fulton St. (inside Harrah’s Hotel), 504.587.7099. Map 3, D6; ruthschris.com

SEAWORTHY

Steaks. This offshoot of New York’s Grand Banks oyster bar casts a wide net, serving up fresh bivalves from the Gulf, along with East and West coast varieties and other sustainably sourced seafood. L (Sa-Su), D (nightly). 630 Carondelet St., 504.930.3071. Map 3, C5; seaworthynola.com

SIDECAR PATIO & OYSTER BAR

Seafood. Swimming in seafood, Sidecar’s menu is large and lush with oysters from all three coasts, oyster specials, oysters crowned with caviar, oysters by the dozen or singles—it’s endless. D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 1114 Constance St., 504.381.5079. Map 3, A7; sidecarnola.com

ST. JAMES CHEESE COMPANY

Deli. The St. James is a “deli” in the manner that Venice’s Cipriani is a “hotel.” The shop has top-of-the-line delicacies beginning with cheese, of course, and running through olives, salads, breads, pâtés, wines and on and on. You can dine in or order a sandwich or picnic to go. L (M-Sa). 641 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.304.1485. Map 3, C6; L (daily). 5004 Prytania St., 504.899.4737. Map 1, D4; stjamescheese.com

TRUE FOOD KITCHEN

Eclectic. Backed by powerhouses Dr. Andrew Weil and Oprah Winfrey, there’s everything to love about this “health-driven” restaurant, from the edamame guacamole to the ancient grains bowl and grassfed burgers. L, D (daily). 801 St. Charles Ave., 504.558.3900. Map 3, B5; truefoodkitchen.com

TSUNAMI

Japanese. At this sprawling emporium the usual sushi suspects sit menu-side with funky items like calamari “fries.” Grab a seat at the bar and create your own roll. L, D (M-Sa). 601 Poydras St., 504.608.3474. Map 3, C5; servingsushi.com

French Quarter

ANTOINE’S

Creole. Established in 1840, Antoine’s is New Orleans’ oldest restaurant and a living treasure. The great-greatgrandchildren of founder Antoine Alciatore run the place as he wanted, which means rich French-Creole food, courtly waiters and an atmosphere of hospitality and tradition. D (MSa); Br (F-Sa), jazz brunch (Su). 713 St Louis St., 504.581.4422. Map 3, F4; antoines.com

ARNAUD’S

Creole. In this magic castle of dining rooms, Arnaud’s continues a tradition begun in 1918. The restaurant was assembled piecemeal over the decades, which is part of its charm. Shrimp Arnaud, oysters Bienville and café brûlot are three of its many famous dishes. D (Tu-Sa); jazz brunch (Su).

813 Bienville St., 504.523.5433. Map 3, F4; arnauds restaurant.com

BIJOU

International. Easygoing-yetsophisticated is the vibe here. Kick off with fried herbed goat cheese balls before moving on to an elegant hanger steak or meatless curried cauliflower. Finish with a warm cookie plate. D (M, W-Sa). 1014 N. Rampart St., 504.603.0557. Map 3, H3; bijouneworleans.com

BOURBON HOUSE

Seafood. A standout addition to Dickie Brennan’s restaurant empire. Stylish seafood dishes are complemented with outstanding filets and sides. Don’t miss the redfish on the half shell or the bourbon shrimp and grits. L, D (daily). 144 Bourbon St., 504.522.0111. Map 3, E4; bourbonhouse.com

BRENNAN’S

Creole. The legendary establishment continues more than seven decades of tradition with long-popular classics (turtle soup, eggs Hussarde, bananas Foster) coupled with fresh, contemporary takes on Creole cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 417 Royal St., 504.525.9711. Map 3, F4; brennans neworleans.com

BROUSSARD’S

Creole. Broussard’s, established in 1920, remains one of the New Orleans’ premier fine dining spots with one of the most elegant courtyards in the French Quarter. The kitchen turns out Crescent City classics, such as bronzed redfish with lump crab. D (ThSa); jazz brunch (F-Su). 819 Conti St., 504.581.3866. Map 3, F4; broussards.com

CAFÉ BEIGNET

Coffee. Along with the city’s signature pastry and all-day breakfast, these cafés serve up small bites of Cajun fare. Open daily. 311 Bourbon St., 504.500.4370. Map 3, F4; 334 Royal St. Map 3, F4; 600 Decatur St. Map 3, F5; 622 Canal St.; Map 3, E5; cafebeignet.com

CAFÉ DU MONDE

Coffee. In operation since 1862, Café Du Monde is a must-

do. On the menu: café au lait and beignets, the unofficial doughnuts of New Orleans. Open daily. 800 Decatur St., 504.525.4544. Map 3, G5; cafedumonde.com

CANE & TABLE

Cuban. This rum-centric restaurant provides a taste of the city’s Caribbean connection. Classic cocktails are given clever contemporary twists, while island flavors inform the “seasonal smart” menu. L (Sa-Su), D (W-Su). 1113 Decatur St., 504.581.1112. Map 3, I5; caneandtablenola.com

COURT OF TWO SISTERS

Creole. No French Quarter visit would be complete without a meal at this romantic restaurant, which features a daily jazz brunch and a nightly a la carte menu. Creole and Cajun cuisine, combined with Southern hospitality and a magical patio setting, makes for a memorable dining experience. Br, D (daily). 613 Royal St., 504.522.7261. Map 3, G4; courtoftwosisters.com

CRESCENT CITY BREWHOUSE

Louisiana. The French Quarter’s only brewpub, featuring microbrews and sophisticated cuisine. Try the German sausage and baby back ribs with sugarcane glaze L, D (daily). 527 Decatur St., 504.522.0571. Map 3, G5; crescentcitybrewhouse.com

DIAN XIN

Chinese. Dim sum craving? Satisfy it here. Steamed pork dumplings, crab-and-crawfish bao, salt-and-pepper squid; the menu goes on and on. L, D (Tu-Su). 1218 Decatur St., 504.266.2828. Map 3, I4; dianxinnnola.com. 620 Conti St., 504.372.3372. Map 3, F4; dianxinonconti.com

DICKIE BRENNAN’S STEAKHOUSE

Steaks. An upscale steakhouse serving superior USDA prime beef with luscious sauces. Order the filet with flash-fried oysters and béarnaise or go big with a sharable chateaubriand. D (M-Sa). 716 Iberville St., 504.522.2467. Map 3, E4; dickiebreannanssteak house.com

DINING

DORIS METROPOLITAN

Steaks. A stunning steakhouse and butcher shop with superior quality dry-aged meats. The menu impresses with an eclectic collection of specialty cuts and an extensive wine list. L (F), D (Tu-Su). 620 Chartres St., 504.267.3500. Map 3, G4; dorismetropolitan.com

FRENCH TOAST

Breakfast. Breakfast is the get at this popular French Quarter spot. There are sweet and savory crepes, perfectly rolled omelets and, of course, a variety of toasts (avocado and egg, ratatouille and ricotta). B, L (daily). 1035 Decatur St., 504.300.5518. Map 3,H5; toastneworleans.com

GALATOIRE’S

Creole. Since 1905, Galatoire’s has been a gravity center of New Orleans. Happily, the food is as good as the party atmosphere, with traditional Creole dishes presented by some of the city’s best waitstaff. L, D (W-Su). 209 Bourbon St., 504.525.2021. Map 3, E4; galatoires.com

GW FINS

Seafood. The local obsession with seafood is taken to global heights, with fresh fish flown in daily from around the world. Irish salmon and New Zealand lobster rub shoulders with Gulf shrimp and Louisiana duck on the menu, all exquisitely prepared. D (nightly). 808 Bienville St., 504.581.3467. Map 3, F4; gwfins.com

HABANA OUTPOST

Latin. The eco-conscious, Brooklyn-based eatery now has a French Quarter “outpost,” which offers its signature Cuban sandwich, loaded elote and vegan-friendly tacos and bowls. L, D (Th-M). 1040 Esplanade Ave., 504.900.9500. Map 3, I3; habanaoutpost.com

IRENE’S CUISINE

Italian Irene’s is all about garlic and olive oil, the importance of consistency, and the best rosemary chicken in town. Everything is outstanding, from the bruschetta to the stuffed veal chop to the perfect tiramisu. D (Tu-Sa). 529 Bienville St., 504.529.8811. Map 3, F5; irenesnola.com

JEWEL OF THE SOUTH

Contemporary. This hidden gem pays homage to a 19thcentury restaurant of the same name, with retro cocktails (brandy crustas, French 75s) and an ever-changing, seasonal menu. L (Su), D (W-M). 1026 St. Louis St., 504.265.8816. Map 3, F3; jewelnola.com

JUSTINE

French. Chef Justin Devillier’s Parisenne-inspired brasserie is both classic and contemporary in design, but the menu is fullon French: onion soup gratinée, escargot, steak frites. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 225 Chartres St., 504.218.8533. Map 3, E4; justinenola.com

KILLER POBOYS

Contemporary. This small joint has garnered big buzz with its “internationally inspired, chefcrafted” takes on the standard po’boy. Try the rum-braised pork belly with lime-infused slaw. L, D (W-M). 219 Dauphine St., 504.439.7445. Map 3, F3; 811 Conti St. (in the Erin Rose bar), 504.252.6745. Map 3, F4; killerpoboys.com

MAMOU

French. A modern French bistro with Creole flavors. Cooked salmon tucked into brioche beignets, red bean cassoulet topped with slices of head cheese, roasted chicken with garlicky parsley potatoes. Finish with lemon madeleines. D (W-Su). 942 N. Rampart St., 504.381.4557. Map 3, H3; mamounola.com

MR. B’S BISTRO

Louisiana. Another outstanding Brennan family restaurant, famed for its deceptively casual powerlunch scene. Must-gets include the barbecued shrimp and bread pudding with Irish whiskey sauce. L (W-Sa), D (W-Su); Br (Su). 201 Royal St., 504.523.2078. Map 3, E4; mrbsbistro.com

NAPOLEON HOUSE

Louisiana. Napoleon never slept here, but this historic café and bar, with its peeling walls and worn charm, has its share of French ambiance. The

DINING

café serves seafood gumbo, salads and warm muffulettas. L, D (daily). 500 Chartres St., 504.524.9752. Map 3, F4; napoleonhouse.com

PALM & PINE

Eclectic. This progressive spot explores the wider definition of the South, including Latin America. There’s chicken fried Texas quail and benne seed-crusted pompano or dig into closer-to-home flavors of a crab claw cocktail. D (ThM); Br (Su). 308 N. Rampart St., 504.814.6200. Map 3, F3; palmandpinenola.com

PELICAN CLUB

Louisiana. Chef-owner Richard Hughes blends indigenous ingredients with international flavors. The whole crispy fish is excellent, as is the herb-crusted rack of lamb. Start with the lump crab and shrimp ravigote. D (W-Su). 312 Exchange Alley, 504.523.1504. Map 3, E4; pelicanclub.com

RED FISH GRILL

Seafood Grilled fish too plain? Not at Ralph Brennan’s popular seafood spot. The hickorygrilled redfish topped with crab is a modern classic, and the other specialties (barbecued oysters, double-chocolate bread pudding) are all exceptional. D (nightly). 115 Bourbon St., 504.598.1200. Map 3, E4; redfishgrill.com

RESTAURANT R’EVOLUTION

Louisiana Chefs John Folse and Rick Tramonto are the tour de force behind this elegantyet-relaxed fine dining venue. The rooms are gorgeously appointed and finely detailed while the menu is made up of modern reinterpretations of classic Cajun and Creole cuisine. D (W-Su). 777 Bienville St., 504.553.2277. Map 3, E4; revolutionnola.com

SAINT JOHN

Creole. Creole classics reenvisioned through a contemporary lens. Hot crawfish remoulade, baked deviled crabs, Creole beef daube—everything old is delicious again. Br, D (W-M).

FLOAT ON D OWN THE BAYOU

1117 Decatur St., 504.581.8120. Map 3, I5; saintjohnnola.com

STANLEY

Eclectic. Retro soda fountain ambiance meets a modern menu at this upscale diner. The adventuresome can try the French-fried frog legs and breakfast seafood platter, while Reuben sandwiches, burgers and ice cream sundaes fulfill more conventional cravings. B, L (Th-M). 547 St. Ann St., 504.587.0093. Map 3, H4; stanleyrestaurant.com

SUN CHONG

Asian. This sleek spot doles out Asian fusion fare—crawfish fried rice, beef bulgogi po’boys, matcha cheesecake—and cool specialty cocktails, backed by a hip-hop beat. D (nightly). 240 Decatur St., 504.355.0022. Map 3, F5; sunchongnola.com

SYLVAIN

Contemporary. Elegant chandeliers dangle overhead at this sophisticated gastropub near Jackson Square, as diners sip handcrafted cocktails and nibble refined comfort classics, such as Fried chicken sandwiches and pasta Bolognese. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 625 Chartres St., 504.265.8123. Map 3, G4; sylvainnola.com

TABLEAU

Creole. Housed in historic Le Petit Theatre, Dickie Brennan’s Jackson Square bistro offers two bars, balcony and courtyard dining and applause-worthy French-Creole dishes. Finish with a tarte à la bouillie. D (W-Su); Br (Th-Su). 616 St Peter St., 504.934.3463. Map 3, G4; tableaufrenchquarter.com

THAIHEY NOLA

Thai. Vibrant, modern Thai cuisine. Start with saltylemony fried okra, followed by the red curry frog legs and Louisiana crab fried rice. A full vegan menu is available as well. L, D (W-Su). 308 Decatur St., 504.354.8646. Map 3, F5; thaiheynola.com

TUJAGUE’S

Creole. A historic restaurant with a new location, new look and newly reconstructed,

DINING

five-course table d’hôte menu. Choose from the classic set menu or go á la carte with contemporary dishes. D (nightly); Br (F-Su). 429 Decatur St., 504.525.8676. Map 3, G5; tujaguesrestaurant.com

Garden District/ Lower Garden District

BISUTORO

Japanese. A modern Japaneseinspired café that ticks all the boxes: a wide variety of fresh fish and vegetables, clever combinations and pretty presentations. Dive into sushi, sashimi or temaki (hand rolls)—and be adventurous. L (F), D (W-Su). 1518 Magazine St., 504.766.9009. Map 1, D4

THE BOWER

Contemporary Chef Marcus Woodham works closely with local farmers to keep his menu fresh and seasonal. Cheese and charcuterie boards give way to gorgeous house-made pastas and grilled Gulf fish. D (M-Sa). 1320 Magazine St., 504.582.9738. Map 1, D4; thebowernola.com

COMMANDER’S PALACE

Creole. Chef Meg Bickford carries on the Brennan family tradition of adventurous food based on Creole principles, served in an elegant atmosphere. L (Th-F), D (nightly); jazz brunch (SaSu). 1403 Washington Ave., 504.899.8221. Map 1, D4; commanderspalace.com

COQUETTE

French. What do you get when you mix traditional Louisiana cooking with spicy Italian and refined French? Coquette, where the menu changes daily but is always stacked with stellar standouts. D (nightly). 2800 Magazine St., 504.265.0421. Map 1, D4; coquettenola.com

FAT BOY PANTRY

Eclectic. Fried lobster po’boys, wild boar Sloppy Jos, lamb belly-and-scrambled eggs pitas, rib eye and Cheez Wiz: You won’t find your usual sandwich suspects here. Great juices, coffees and ice cream,

too. L, D (daily). 1302 Magazine St., 504.239.9514. Map 1, D4; fatboypantry.com

GRIS-GRIS

Louisiana. Chef Eric Cook whips up elevated New Orleans standards (catfish-and-caviar po’ boys, redfish courtbouillon) from his hopping open kitchen. The adjacent Gris-Gris to Go Go offers a great selection of graband-go items. Br, D (W-M). 1800 Magazine St., 504.272.0241. Map 1, D4; grisgrisnola.com

JACK ROSE

Contemporary. This bold space in the Pontchartrain Hotel turns out playful versions of familiar foods. Think pork belly with collard greens or fried chicken Parmesan. Cool cocktails; gorgeous desserts. D (W-Sa); Br (Sa-Su). 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D4; jackroserestaurant.com

SAN LORENZO

Italian. The Hotel Saint Vincent’s charming eatery serves up homemade pastas tumbled in light sauces, platters of chilled raw seafood and woodfired steaks. L (M-F), D (nighty); Br (Sa-Su). 1507 Magazine St., 504.350.2450. Map 1, D4; saintvincentnola.com

STEIN’S MARKET & DELI

Deli A real-deal Jewish deli in New Orleans? Philadelphia native Dan Stein brings a taste of the Northeast to the Deep South with authentic Ruebens on rye, matzo ball soup and crusty Davidovich bagels. L (Tu-Su). 2207 Magazine St., 504.527.0771. Map 1, D3; steinsdeli.com

TURKEY AND THE WOLF

Eclectic. Sandwiches are the menu mainstay at this casual café: fried baloney with American cheese and chips, collard green melts. Don’t pass on the wedge salad. L (W-M). 739 Jackson Ave., 504.218.7428. Map 1, D4; turkeyandthewolf.com

Marigny/Bywater

ALMA

Honduran. Chef Melissa Araujo’s menu reflects her Honduran heritage: savory

orroz con pollo, baked plantains with refried pintos and housemade crema, Central American sweetbreads to go with Colombian coffee. Br (daily). 800 Louisa St., 504.381.5877. Map 1, E3; eatalmanola.com

BACCHANAL

Eclectic. This combo wine retail shop/bar/live music venue is also a full-blown restaurant. Dig into “international bistro” fare, while local bands perform in the shady backyard. L, D (daily). 600 Poland Ave., 504.948.9111. Map 1, E3; bacchanalwine.com

BRATZ Y’ALL

German Celebrating the neighborhood’s German background, this Bywater biergarten offers authentic brats and sausages, along with schnitzel, potato dumplings, fresh pretzels and lots of German beer. L, D (Tu-Su). 617-B Piety St., 504.301.3222. Map 1, E3; bratzyall.com

BYWATER AMERICAN BISTRO

American. The menu at this casual neighborhood spot spotlights local, seasonal ingredients. Blackened octopus with sweet potato-coconut purée, spicy seafood stew; try the Wagyu beef lasagna. D (W-Sa). 2900 Chartres St., 504.605.3827. Map 1, E3; bywateramerican bistro.com

THE COUNTRY CLUB

Louisiana. This long-popular Bywater hangout offers casual fine dining. Dive into bigflavored small plates (crab beignets, truffle mac’ n’ cheese) or full-on entrees such as grilled filet mignon. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 634 Louisa St., 504.945.0742. Map 1, E3; thecountryclubneworleans.com

ELIZABETH’S

American. “Real food done real good” is the motto at this friendly neighborhood joint. Two words to remember: praline bacon. B, L (Th-M). 601 Gallier St., 504.944.9272. Map 1, E3; elizabethsrestaurantnola.com

THE ELYSIAN BAR

Contemporary. Tucked inside the Peter and Paul Hotel, this sunny yellow dining room

feels all warm and cozy, like a relative’s kitchen. The menu follows suit, with homey fare such as French-rolled omelets. D (nightly); Br (F-M). 2317 Burgundy St., 504.356.6769. Map 1, E3; theelysianbar.com

N7

French. This quiet, hiddenaway bistro is named for France’s Route Nationale 7. Steamed mussels, steak au poivre, duck confit, a lovely wine list and fine service equate to total charm. Ask for a seat in the garden. D (MSa); Br (F-Sa). 1117 Montegut St. Map 1, E3; n7nola.com

PALADAR 511

Contemporary. California cooking New Orleans-style means lots of frilly salads, fish left au naturel and pizzas smartly topped with farm eggs, summer squash and the like. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 511 Marigny St., 504.509.6782. Map 3, J5; paladar511.com

PIZZA DELICIOUS

Italian. This pop-up pizzeria grew so popular that it now has its own brick-and-mortar space. New York-style pies with an everchanging array of market-fresh toppings are offered whole or by the slice. L, D (Tu-Su). 617 Piety St., 504.676.8482. Map 1, D3; pizzadelicious.com

Mid-City

ADDIS NOLA

African. Eating with your hands is encouraged here. Spongy injera flatbread is perfect for pinching bits of doro wat (chicken), spicy stewed lentils and mitmita-dusted kitfo (beef) with fresh cottage cheese. L (M, W-F), D (W-M); Br (Sa-Su). 2514 Bayou Rd., 504.218.5321. Map 1, E2; addisnola.com

ANGELO BROCATO’S

Bakery. This century-old ice cream parlor and confectionery offers a nostalgic slice of Old World Sicily, with glasstopped tables, slow-turning ceiling fans and some of the best Italian pastries and ice creams this side of Palermo. Open Tu-Su. 214 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.486.1465. Map 1, D2; angelobrocatoicecream.com

Show your love for New Orleans

BLUE OAK BBQ

Barbecue. Blue Oak draws raves for its crisp-skinned barbecued chicken, spareribs, killer nachos and fried Brussels sprouts. L, D (daily). 900 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.822.2583. Map 1, D3; blueoakbbq.com

CAFÉ DEGAS

French. Artist Edgar Degas briefly lived and painted just a few blocks from this French café bearing his name. An all-weather patio provides an ideal setting for escargots, onion soup and an array of daily specials. L (WF), D (W-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 3127 Esplanade Ave. 504.945.5635. Map 1, D2; cafedegas.com

DOOKY CHASE’S

Creole. One of the oldest Black-owned restaurants in the nation. The late “Queen of Creole Cuisine,” Leah Chase’s legend lives on in classic dishes such as shrimp with lima beans and gumbo z’herbes. L (Tu-F), D (F-Sa). 2301 Orleans Ave., 504.821.0600. Map 1, D3; dookychaserestaurants.com

FLOUR MOON BAGELS

Bakery. Hand-shaped, boiled and baked New York-style bagels are the draw here. You’ll also find a broad menu of bagel sandwiches and open-faced tartines. Named among the best in the U.S. by Bon Appétit. B, L (Th-Tu). 457 N. Dergenois St., 504.354.1617.Map 1, D3; flourmoonbagels.com

LIL’ DIZZY’S CAFÉ

Creole The Baquet family is known for their award-winning trout Baquet, gumbo, fried chicken, baked macaroni and daily specials. L (M-Sa). 1500 Esplanade Ave., 504.766.8687. Map 3, I1; lildizzyscafe.net

PARKWAY BAKERY

Louisiana. The menu here is long but simple: po’boys and more po’boys. Your choices for stuffings: roast beef, oyster, shrimp and, of course, alligator sausage—and that’ s just the top of the list. L (W-Su). 538 Hagan Ave., 504.482.3047. Map 1, D2; parkwaypoorboys.com

1000 FIGS

Mediterranean. Classic falafel sandwiches and plates are joined

Sterling silver engraved charm

DINING/SHOPPING

by seared squid salads, baba ghanouj, lamb and more. L, D (M-Sa). 63141 Ponce de Leon St., 504.301.0848. Map 1, D2; 1000figs.com

TOUPS’ MEATERY

Cajun. Chef Isaac Toups is known for his masterful charcuterie. Start with the Meatery Board, a selection of house-cured meats and condiments, before moving on to the lamb neck with fenneland-black-eyed pea salad. L (MF), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 845 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.252.4999. Map 1, D3; toupsmeatery.com

ZASU

Seafood. James Beard Awardwinning chef Sue Zemanick goes coastal at her intimate Mid-City space: grilled baby octopus, hamachi crudo, fried sea scallops with celery root-apple remoulade. D (M, W-Sa). 127 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.267.3233. Map 1, D2; zasunola.com

UPTOWN

AVO

Italian. Chef Nick Lama does his fourth-generation Sicilian ancestry proud with such standouts as charred octopus with pork butter and pineapple, lasagna with short rib ragu and grilled Gulf fish piccata. D (Tu-Sa). 5908 Magazine St., 504.509.6550. Map 1, D4; restaurantavo.com

BOUCHERIE

Louisiana. Chef Nathanial Zimet brings a taste of contemporary Louisiana to the table: gumbo with crab-fat popcorn rice, collard greens and grit fries, chicken-fried duck confit. And for dessert?

Krispy Kreme bread pudding. L (F), D (W-Sa). 8115 Jeannette St., 504.862.5514. Map 1, C3; boucherie-nola.com

THE CHLOE

Louisiana. At this charming boutique property, chef Todd Pulsinelli turns out staller dishes that are at once elegant and playful. Evidence the porkand-shrimp étouffée dumplings and Royal Red Shrimp Roll. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 4125 St.

Charles Ave., 504.541.5500. Map 1, D4; thechloenola.com

COSTERA

Spanish. This casual spot’s Spanish-inspired menu encourages plate-sharing with a wide range of tapas, along with larger entrees such as seafood paella. D (W-Su). 4938 Prytania St., 504.302.2332. Map 1, D4; costerarestaurant.com

DAKAR NOLA

African. Senegal-born chef Serigne Mbaye’s tasting menu restaurant combines the flavors of Africa and Louisiana, served in seven courses at a single 7 pm seating. D (Th-Sa). 3814 Magazine St., 504.493-9396. Map 1, D4; dakarnola.com

FRANCOLINI’S

Deli Proof that “not everything from Jersey sucks,” this homage to Northeastern Italian delis offers a wide variety of subs and sandwiches comprised of quality meats and cheeses. L (Th-M). 3987 Tchoupitoulas St. Map 1, D4; francolinis.com

LA BOULANGERIE

Bakery This French bakery doles out savory and sweet artisanal goods to regulars who are loyal verging on addicted. Almond or ham-and-cheese croissants make light snacks, while loaves baked with blue cheese or olives are all good enough to devour on their own. B, L (daily). 4600 Magazine St., 504.269.3777. Map 1, D4; laboulangerienola.com

LA PETITE GROCERY

French. An intimate bistro where local specialties share menu space with French favorites. Try the blue crab beignets or a Gruyére cheeseburger with onion marmalade. L (Th-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). 4238 Magazine St., 504.891.3377. Map 1, D4; lapetitegrocery.com

LILETTE

French. Chef John Harris’ bistro looks and feels French but makes a perfect Italian wedding soup as well.

Traditional appetizers are accented with imaginative sauces, such as the escargots with Calvados cream. L (Tu-

Sa), D (M-Sa). 3637 Magazine St., 504.895.1636. Map 1, D4; liletterestaurant.com

MISTER MAO

Eclectic. The food here is as fun and funky as the quirky interior. The “inauthentic” globally inspired menu swings from escargot Wellington to octopus with mango and cerveza jelly. D (Th-M); Br (Su). 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., 504.345.2056. Map 1, D4; mistermaonola.com

MOSQUITO SUPPER CLUB

Louisiana. Bayou-born chef Melissa Martin serves up family-style Cajun dinners with side of Louisiana culinary history. Think shrimp-andokra gumbo and fried stuffed crabs. D (Th-Su). 3824 Dryades St., 504.494.9777. Map 1, D4; mosquitosupperclub.com

OSTERIA LUPO

Italian. A nod to Northern Italy, with sharable antipasti (black truffle arancini), handmade pastas (radiatori with Louisiana blue crab) and wood-fired meat and seafood entrees (grilled lamb with pistachio-mint salsa verde). L (F-Su), D (nightly). 4609 Magazine St., 504.273.1268. Map 1, D4; osterialupo.com

PICNIC PROVISIONS & WHISKEY

Southern Crawfish-boil hot fried chicken anchors the menu at this casual Commander’s Palace offshoot near Audubon Park. Begin with the crab dip and finish with a marshmallowtopped brownie. L, D (Tu-Su). 741 State St., 504.266.2810. Map 1, D4; nolapicnic.com

PIGEON & WHALE

Seafood Dip into Northeastern waters on the Gulf: Maine lobster rolls, steamed Atlantic clams, PEI mussels, East Coast oysters on the half shell. Gin lovers will fall for the negroni selection. D (Tu-Su). 4525 Freret St., 504.249.5487. Map 1, D3; pigeonandwhalenola.com

SABA

Mediterranean. A taste of modern Israel with a menu full of hummus, kebabs and labneh, along with intriguing entrees, such as duck breast with pomegranate molasses,

cocoa and citrus. L (F), D (WSu); Br (Sa-Su). 5757 Magazine St., 504.324.7770. Map 1, D4; eatwithsaba.com

SAFFRON NOLA

Indian. Elevated Indian fare with contemporary flair. Top picks include the crabmeat pudha, rum-soaked lamb chops and grilled shrimp curry. D (Tu-Sa). 4128 Magazine St., 504.323.2626. Map 1, D4; saffronnola.com

SHAYA

Mediterranean. Contemporary Mediterranean with Southern flair. Fresh-made pita accompanies creamy baba ganoush, smokey labneh and an outstanding hummus selection; try the fried chicken version. L, D (daily). 4213 Magazine St., 504.891.4213. Map 1, D4; shayarestaurant.com

SHOPPING

Art Galleries & Antiques

ANTIEAU GALLERY

Folk artist Chris RobertsAntieau’s textile appliqué works are found in the American Visionary Art Museum and her French Quarter gallery. Each of her one-of-a-kind “fabric pictures” feature individually crafted, hand-painted frames. 719 Royal St., 504.304.0849. Map 3, G4; antieaugallery.com

ARTHUR ROGER GALLERY

One of New Orleans’ leading modern art galleries, featuring an extensive collection of paintings, sculpture, photographs and works on paper. 432 Julia St., 504.522.1999. Map 3, C5; arthurrogergallery.com

BEVOLO GAS & ELECTRIC LIGHTS

The vast majority of copper and brass gas lanterns adorning French Quarter shops, restaurants and homes are made at Bevolo. Choose from a selection of available styles, or have fixtures custom-built on-site. Contemporary designs are featured at 304 Royal, while 316 Royal is home to a lighting museum where you’ll see lamps

being made by hand. 521 Conti St., 504.522.9485. Map 3, F5; 304 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; 316-318 Royal St., 504.552.4311. Map 3, F4; bevolo.com

CALLAN CONTEMPORARY

Works by modern-day American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and figurative paintings and sculpture. 518 Julia St., 504.525.0518. Map 3, C6; callancontemporary.com

CRAIG TRACY GALLERY

The bulk of artist Craig Tracy’s work is devoted to the human form, which the famed bodypainter enhances with eye-tricking imagery he then captures on film. 827 Royal St., 504.592.9886. Map 3, H4; craigtracy.com

FRANK RELLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Award-winning photographer Relle’s moody “nightscapes” are counted among the permanent collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of History and the private holdings of Brad Pitt, Wynton Marsalis and others. 7910 Royal St., 504.265.8564. Map 3, H4; frankrelle.com

FRENCH ANTIQUE SHOP

Founded in Paris, this shop relocated to New Orleans in 1939. Today it carries French antique furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries and Oriental accents, including vases with bronze mountings. 225 Royal St., 504.524.9861. Map 3, E4; gofrenchantiques.com

JONATHAN FERRARA GALLERY

Home to the cutting-edge work of proprietor Jonathan Ferrara and other local and national artists. Sculpture, glass, metal and installation art are featured. 400A Julia St., 504.522.5471. Map 3, C6; jonathanferraragallery.com

KEIL’S ANTIQUES

Founded in 1899, Keil’s established its reputation with rare 18th- and 19th-century French and English furniture. The shop also specializes in chandeliers, mantels, mirrors and fine jewel-

ry. 325 Royal St., 504.522.4552. Map 3, F4; keilsantiques.com

LEROY’S PLACE

A whimsical, weird enclave full of handmade creatures dreamed up by illustrator Serene Bacigalupi. Some are hiding in old paintings; others are displayed as 3D sculpture. 922 Royal St., 504.459.2433; leroysplace.com

M.S. RAU ANTIQUES

This third-generation family business is one of the nation’s oldest dealing in 19th-century antiques. Rau is known for its American, French and English furniture, fine silver, glass, porcelain, clocks and quality jewelry. 622 Royal St., 504.523.5660. Map 3, G4; rauantiques.com

(MOSTLY) ROCK ’N’ ROLL GALLERY

David Bowie, the Eurythmics, Freddie Mercury, U2: Steve Rapport’s photo archive reads like a 1980s rock royalty roll call. You’ll also find images of local musicians. 627 St. Peter St.; mostlyrocknroll.com

RODRIGUE STUDIO

Devoted to the works of the late great George Rodrigue. Paintings and silkscreens representing Rodrigue’s Cajun roots period and popular Blue Dog series are available. 730 Royal St., 504.581.4244. Map 3, G4; georgerodrigue.com

TERRANCE

OSBORNE GALLERY

Over the past decade artist Osborne has garnered a large local and national following with his architectural works and reflections on Crescent City life. 3029 Magazine St., 504.232.7530. Map 1, D4; terranceosborne.com

VINTAGE 329

A mecca for vintage jewelry buffs, this shop is filled with Chanel, Memento Mori and Christian Lacroix. Retro sunglasses, fashion-inspired posters and barware are among the offerings. 329 Royal St., 504.525.2262. Map 3, F4; vintage329.com

WINDSOR FINE ART

This fine art gallery features original works from the old masters and masters of the Belle Époque to the modern masters and the biggest names in post-war contemporary art. Internationally renowned contemporary artists and sculpture are also featured. 221 Royal St., 504. 586.0202. Map 3, F4; windsorfineart.com

Clothing, Hats & Shoes

BILLY REID

Award-winning designer Reed’s chic boutiques are found all over the country—and now in his birth state as well. Women’s and men’s fashions are featured, along with shoes, bags and accessories. 3927 Magazine St., 504.208.1200. Map 1, D4; billyreid.com

CENTURY GIRL

A bright, glittery women’s clothing and accessories emporium that steps back in time with gorgeous fashions and beautiful designer costume jewelry. 2023 Magazine St., 504.875.3105. Map 1, D4; centurygirlvintage.com

DIRTY COAST

Catering to locals and inthe-know visitors, the shop’s slick designs feature funky graphics with cool Crescent City-inspired slogans. 630 Chartres St., 504.354.1955. Map 3, G4; 1320 Magazine St., 504.766.0752. Map 1, E4; 5415 Magazine St., 504.324.3745. Map 1, D4; dirtycoast.com

GOORIN BROS. HATS

The city’s newest hat shop dates to 1895, when milliner Cassel Goorin first began plying his wares from Pittsburgh street carts. Today Goorin’s hip headwear is found nationwide. 709 Royal St., 504.523.4287. Map 3, G4; goorin.com

SHOE BE DO

Get a step ahead with cuttingedge women’s footwear from up-and-coming international designers. 324 Chartres St., 504.523.SHOE. Map 3, F4; shoebedousa.com

TASC

Originating in New Orleans, this popular line of active wear is now found nationwide. The secret to its success is its ecoconscious fabric that blends bamboo with organic cotton and merino wool, resulting in soft, durable performance apparel. 3913 Magazine St., 504.304.5030. Map 1, D4; tascperformance.com

TRASHY DIVA

Original and vintageinspired designs with a modern sensibility. The shop offers women’s clothing, shoes, lingerie, jewelry and accessories. 537 Royal St., 504.522.4233. Map 3, G4; 2048 Magazine St., 504.299.8777. Map 1, D4; trashydiva.com

WEINSTEIN’S

Elegant European women’s wear, from casual to formal, is the specialty at this store, which features the latest by leading designers. 4011 Magazine St., 504.895.6278. Map 1, D4; weinsteinsinc.com

Gifts & Collectibles

BUNGALOWS

This shop mixes jewelry (including designs by Pandora, Brighton and other popular lines) and women’s accessories (hats, handbags) with home accents and gift items. 610 Chartres St., 504.522.9222. Map 3, G4; shopbungalows.com

DARK MATTER

Jars of preserved scorpions. Taxidermy mice, mummified cats and possum skulls. Eerie art and moody photography. More than 30 regional oddity artisans are represented in this macabre space. 822 Chartres St. Map 3, H5

DERBY POTTERY & TILE

Mark Derby’s elegant Victorian reproduction tile can be found in showrooms nationwide. But you’ll see it being made here, along with Derby’s decorative pottery. 2029 Magazine St., 504.586.9003. Map 1, D4; derbypottery.com

KILLER POBOYS

FLEURTY GIRL

These popular boutiques are packed with Crescent City collectibles, NOLA-centric T-shirts and great gift items. 617 Chartres St., 504.304.5529. Map 3, G4; 3117 Magazine St., 504.301.2557. Map 1, D4; fleurtygirl.net

FIFI MAHONEY’S

In search of the perfect pink wig? Longing for drop-dead ruby-red lipstick? It’s all available at Fifi’s, a wonderfully outrageous salon in the heart of the French Quarter. 4934 Royal St., 504.525.4343. Map 3, H4; fifisbywater.square.site

HOME MALONE

A bright, welcoming space filled with Crescent City collectibles (NOLA-themed dish towels, Mardi Gras float flowers), Southern-centric home decor and fun gift items. 4610 Magazine St., 504.766.6148. Map 1, D4; 629 N. Carrollton Ave., 504.324.8352. Map 1, D2; homemalonenola.com

LAURA’S CANDIES

Laura’s dates to 1913, making it the oldest confectionery in the city. Among the treats are Creole pralines and decadent Mississippi Mud. 331 Chartres St., 504.525.3880. Map 3, F4; 305 Royal St., 800.992.9699. Map 3, F4; laurascandies.com

LOUISIANA

MUSIC FACTORY

There’s no better place in town to stock up on new or used CDs by local artists. Select posters, books and videos also offered. 421 Frenchmen St., 504.586.1094. Map 3, J5; louisianamusicfactory.com

NOLA BOARDS

Add a dash of Crescent City flavor to your home kitchen with this shop’s handcrafted cutting boards. Wooden cheese boards, magnetic knife holders and other locally made culinary products are also offered. 4228 Magazine St., 504.256.0030. Map 31D4; nolaboards.com

NOLA KIDS

This children’s boutique offers select apparel for boys and girls, from infant to youth, along with toys, books and great gift items.

526 Royal St., 504.533.9853. Map 3, G4; 333 Chartres St., 504.566.1340. Map 3, F4; shopnolakids.com

Jewelry

ART & EYES

The eyes have it at this chic eyewear boutique, which specializes in hand-picked frames to fit just about any face or budget. Wearable art by designer Starr Hagenbring and jewelry is also featured. 3708 Magazine St., 504.891.4494. Map 1, D4; artandeyesneworleansla.com

PORTER LYONS

Jewelry designer Ashley Lyons is a hit in Hollywood, but it’s her New Orleans roots that inspire her creations. 623 Royal St., 504.518.4945. Map 3, G4; porterlyons.com

WELLINGTON & CO.

This small space is largely devoted to antique and estate pieces, with an emphasis on Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco designs. Engagement and bridal jewelry are also featured, along with new designer lines. 505 Royal St., 504. 525.4855. Map 3, F4; wcjewelry.com

Malls/Major Retailers

CANAL PLACE

Some of world’s finest retailers in an elegant setting. Stores include Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Saks Fifth Avenue, Tory Burch, lululemon and Brooks Brothers, as well as local retailers. 333 Canal St., 504.522.9200. Map 3, E5; canalplacestyle.com

LAKESIDE SHOPPING CENTER

Conveniently located near the city and Louis Armstrong Airport, Lakeside houses more than 120 stores, including Apple, Coach, Macy’s and Michael Kors. 3301 Veterans Blvd., 504.835.8000. Map 1, C2; lakesideshopping.com

RIVERWALK OUTLETS

Located along the Mississippi River at the foot of Poydras Street, the nation’s first urban outlet center offers more than

70 shops, including Nordstrom Rack and Coach. 500 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.522.1555. Map 3, D7; riverwalknew orleans.com

ATTRACTIONS

Attractions & Landmarks

ARMSTRONG PARK

Named for the jazz great Louis Armstrong, this 34-acre greenspace is home to Congo Square, where jazz is believed to have first taken root. N. Rampart and St. Ann streets. Map 3, H2

AUDUBON AQUARIUM & INSECTARIUM

This award-winning aquarium includes the largest and most diverse collection of sharks and jellyfish in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 1 Canal St., 504.581.4629. Map 3, E6; audubonnatureinstitute.org

AUDUBON PARK

Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

AUDUBON ZOO

Home to more than 1,800 animals, the renowned Audubon Zoo is one of the top-rated zoos in the U.S. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 6500 Magazine St., 504.581.4629. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

CEASARS SUPERDOME

Home to the New Orleans Saints, the Superdome ranks as the largest covered arena in the world. 1500 Poydras St., 504.587.3663. Map 3, B2; caesarssuperdome.com

CITY PARK

Abundant live oaks provide a lush canopy for this 1,300-acre outdoor oasis, larger even than New York’s Central Park. 1 Palm Dr., 504.482.4888. Map 1, D2; neworleanscitypark.com

CRESCENT PARK

Looking for unique views of the city? Stroll along this 1.4mile riverfront promenade, which stretches from the French Quarter to the Bywater neighborhood. Map 3, J6; crescentparknola.org

DESTREHAN PLANTATION

A 30-minute drive from New Orleans, Destrehan was built in 1787 by a sugar planter, and is the oldest plantation home in the lower Mississippi Valley. Tours are offered daily: M-Th, 9:30 am-3 pm; F-Su, 9:30 am-4 pm. 13034 River Rd., Destrehan, La., 985.764.9315; destrehanplantation.org

FRENCH MARKET

America’s oldest public market. Along with homegrown specialties, it also features a number of food stalls, retail shops and flea market merchants. 1008 N. Peters St., 504.636.6400. Map 3, H5; frenchmarket.org

GALLIER HOUSE

The home of renowned New Orleans architect James Gallier, Jr. is decorated and furnished in the style of the 1860s, and was rated one of the country’s top museums by The New York Times. Tours offered W-M. 1132 Royal St., 504.274.0748. Map 3, I4; hgghh.org

AUDUBON PARK

Walk, jog, golf or picnic among the oaks and lagoons in this beautiful glade. On the St. Charles streetcar line (stop 36) across from Tulane and Loyola universities. St. Charles Ave. at Walnut St., 504.212.5237. Map 1, C4; auduboninstitute.org

HARRAH’S CASINO

The city’s largest casino is located at the foot of Canal Street. The mammoth pleasure palace features 115,000 square feet of gaming space. 228 Poydras St., 800.427.7247. Map 3, E6; caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans

HOUMAS HOUSE HISTORIC ESTATE AND GARDENS

Houmas House is famous for its imposing Greek Revival architecture and lush grounds.

A museum charting the history of River Road is also featured. Daily tours, 9:30 am-7 pm. Overnight accommodations available. 40136 Hwy. 942, Darrow, La, 225.473.9380; houmashouse.com

JACKSON SQUARE

The heart of the French Quarter was originally known as Place d’Armes, and was renamed to honor President Andrew Jackson, whose statue anchors the square. Decatur Street at St. Ann Street. Map 3, G5

LAFOURCHE PARISH

Outdoor enthusiast? Head “down the bayou,” just 35 minutes south of the city. Lafourche lives up to Louisiana’s “sportsman’s paradise” moniker with charter fishing, kayaking, paddle boarding, swamp tours and more. Gain further insight into the area at the Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center. lacajunbayou.com

MARDI GRAS WORLD

It’s Carnival time all year long inside the workshops of Kern Studios, the world’s largest float builder. Daily tours, 9 am-5:30 pm. 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl., 504.361.7821. Map 3, A8; mardigrasworld.com

OLD URSULINE CONVENT

Dating to 1727, this is the oldest edifice in the Mississippi River Valley and the sole surviving building from the French Colonial period in the U.S. Tours given M, Th-Sa, 10 and 11 am and 1 pm. 1112 Chartres St., 504.529.3040. Map 3, I4; stlouiscathedral.org

PRYTANIA THEATRES AT CANAL PLACE

This state-of-the-art cinema offers nine screens, along with a full bar and private screenings. 333 Canal St., 3rd fl., 504.290.2658. Map 3, E5; prytaniacanalplace.com

SMOOTHIE KING CENTER

Cousin to the Superdome, the Center is home of the New Orleans Pelicans basketball team, as well as the site of major concerts. 1501 Dave Dixon Dr., 504.587.3663. Map 3, D8; smoothiekingcenter.com

ST. BERNARD PARISH

Founded by Canary Islanders in 1778, today St. Bernard Parish is a thriving, familyoriented community and popular fishing and birding destination. Attractions include Chalmette Battlefield, the Los Isleños Museum & Village and St. Bernard State Park. visitstbernard.com

ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL

Established as a parish in 1720, this magnificent circa-1849 cathedral is the heart and symbol of New Orleans. Mass said daily. Jackson Square, 504.525.9585. Map 3, G4; stlouiscathedral.org

STUDIO BE

Brandan Odums’ giant graffiti-style murals explore Black life through powerful portraits of Martin Luther King Jr., Malcolm X, Muhammad Ali and other pivotal players coupled with images of everyday individuals. Open W-Su. 2941 Royal St., 504.330.6231. Map 1, E3; studiobenola.com

VUE ORLEANS

Along with the highest viewpoint in the city, this one-of-akind, 360º observatory provides a crash course in local history and culture through a variety of immersive exhibits and interactive experiences. Open daily. 2 Canal St., 504.285.3600. Map 3, E6; vueorleans.com

WHITNEY PLANTATION

Opened to the public for the first time in its 265-year history, this plantation explores slavery through moving first-person accounts. Tours are offered W-M, 10 am-3 pm. 5099 Hwy. 18, Wallace, La., 225.265.3300; whitneyplantation.org

WOLDENBERG PARK

This grassy riverfront promenade, which runs from the Audubon Aquarium to Jackson Square, affords great views of the Mississippi. Map 3, F6; audubonnatureinstitue.org

Museums

THE HISTORIC NEW ORLEANS COLLECTION

This trove of historic treasures offers free changing exhibi-

tions, along with permanent displays tracing the evolution of the French Quarter and the city’s multilayered past. Open Tu-Sa, 9:30 am-4:30 pm; Su, 10:30 am-4:30 pm. 520 and 533 Royal St., 504.523.4662. Map 3, G4; hnoc.org

LOUISIANA STATE MUSEUMS

The Louisiana State Museum operates a number of French Quarter venues: The Cabildo, where the signing of the Louisiana Purchase took place; the Presbytère; the 1850 House; and the Old U.S. Mint, home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Open Tu-Su. 504.568.6968. louisianastatemuseum.org

MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHERN JEWISH EXPERIENCE

Three galleries of interactive exhibits examine Jewish life in 13 Bible Belt states, while exploring the broader concept of the great American tapestry. Open W-M, 10 am-5 pm. 818 Howard Ave., 504.384.2480. Map 3, B5; msje.org

NATIONAL WWII MUSEUM

This living history tribute to the veterans of World War II is a world-class military archive with numerous exhibits, including the 4D film “Beyond All Boundaries.” Open daily, 9 am-5 pm. 945 Magazine St., 504.528.1944. Map 3, B6; nationalww2museum.org

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ MUSEUM

The world’s largest and most comprehensive collection of jazz-related artifacts offers rotating exhibits and live performances. Open Tu-Su, 9 am-4pm. 400 Esplanade Ave (in the Old U.S. Mint), 504.568.6993. Map 3, I5; nolajazzmuseum.org

NEW ORLEANS MUSEUM OF ART

One of the South’s finest museums, featuring an extensive collection from the 15th through 20th centuries and a free sculpture garden. Open Tu, Th-Su (10 am-5 pm), W (noon- 7 pm); sculpture garden open daily (10 am-6 pm). 1 Collins C. Diboll

Circle (City Park), 504.658.4100. Map 1, D2; noma.org

NEW ORLEANS PHARMACY MUSEUM

This former apothecary housed the nation’s first licensed pharmacist. See 19th-century “miracle” drugs, phlebotomists’ tools and an 1855 soda fountain. Open Tu-Sa, 10 am-4 pm. 514 Chartres St., 504.565.8027. Map 3, G4; pharmacymuseum.org

OGDEN MUSEUM OF SOUTHERN ART

This Smithsonian Institution affiliate offers a fresh, new look at four centuries of the American South. Open daily, 10 am-5 pm. 925 Camp St., 504.539.9650. Map 3, B6; ogdenmuseum.org

SAZERAC HOUSE

Explore the evolution of the city’s cocktail culture through a variety of exhibits, while sipping samples along the way. Free. Open daily, 11 am-6 pm. 101 Magazine St., 504.910.0100. Map 3, E5; sazerachouse.com

ENTERTAINMENT

Cruises & Tours

AIRBOAT ADVENTURES

Dive into Louisiana swamplands on guided, high-speed airboat excursions geared to groups of all sizes. Hotel pickup available for an additional fee. 504.689.2005. airboat adventures.com

CANOE & TRAIL ADVENTURES

Explore Lake Pontchartrain the way Native Americans did. Daily eco-conscious canoe and kayak excursions with certified guides are offered, along with rentals. 504.233.0686. canoeandtrail.com

CITY SIGHTSEEING

This informative doubledecker bus tour allows you to hop off—then back on again— at top attractions throughout the city. 700 Decatur St., 504.207.6200; 800.362.1811. Map 3, G5; citysightseeing neworleans.com

CREOLE QUEEN PADDLEWHEELER

Daily 2.5-hour brunch and Chalmette Battlefield cruises (10 am and 2 pm) and two-hour dinner jazz cruises (7 pm). Departs from Spanish Plaza. 1 Poydras St., 504.529.4567. Map 3, D7; creolequeen.com

DRINK + LEARN

Cocktail historian Elizabeth Pierce leads these fun and informative two-hour tippling tours through the French Quarter. 504.578.8280. drinkandlearn.com

GATORS AND GHOSTS

This tour group offers a variety of excursions, from swamp explorations to city, plantation and haunted outings. Hotel pickups and drop-offs are available. 888.481.8188. gatorsand ghosts.com

GRAY LINE NEW ORLEANS

Gray Line provides a wide array of tours—Plantations, Ghost, Garden District, Cemeteries, Swamp & Airboat, Cocktail, French Quarter, City, Steamboat, River Cruises—and all possible combinations. Call for tour info and reservations. Toulouse St. at the Mississippi River, 504.569.1401. Map 3, F5; graylineneworleans.com

HAUNTED

HISTORY TOURS

Ghost, vampire, voodoo, occult: This popular tour group offers a variety of excursions through the French Quarter and Garden District. Meet guides 15 minutes prior to tours. For tickets and further information: 504.861.2727. hauntedhistorytours.com

NOLA HISTORIC TOURS

Guide Rob Florence literally wrote the book on New Orleans cemeteries. Both entertaining and educational, his knowledgeable team’s walking tours run the gamut, from the French Quarter and Garden District to the city’s music history. Private and custom experiences are also offered. 504.947.2120. tourneworleans.com

STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ

The last authentic steamboat on the Mississippi River. Daily

harbor jazz cruises at 11:30 am. Dinner jazz cruise, nightly at 7 pm. Departs from Toulouse Street and the Mississippi River. 504.569.1401. Map 3, E7; steamboatnatchez.com

NIGHTLIFE Cocktails

ARNAUD’S FRENCH 75

Fine libations and classic cocktails in a clubby atmosphere, adjacent to Arnaud’s restaurant. 813 Bienville St., 504.523.54533. Map 3, F4; arnauds.com

BAR MARILOU

With its swanky sofas and blood-red walls, this Parisianaccented space is perfect for sipping an aperitif while nibbling on sophisticated bar bites. 544 Carondelet St., 504.814.7711. Map 3, C5; barmarilou.com

CAROUSEL BAR

Located in the Hotel Monteleone, this bar is an authentic revolving carousel (worth a peek even for teetotalers) . 214 Royal St., 504.523.3341. Map 3, E4; hotelmonteleone.com

CHANDELIER BAR

The Four Seasons’ aptly named lobby lounge is anchored by a dramatic 15,000-crystal centerpiece and award-winning bartender Hadi Ktiri. 2 Canal St., 504.434.5100. Map 3, E7; fourseasons.com/neworleans

THE COLUMNS

This beautifully restored historic property oozes elegance. Grab a seat at the moody mahogany bar or settle into a courtyard table and listen to the streetcar rumble by, while sipping stellar cocktails and noshing on standout small plates. 3811 St. Charles Ave., 504.899.9308. Map 1, D4; thecolumns.com

DOUBLE DEALER

Tucked beneath the Orpheum Theater, this modern-day speakeasy woos with curtained booths, secret nooks and a wide-ranging lineup of entertainment. 129 Roosevelt

Way, 504.300.0212. Map 3, E3; doubledealernola.com

FIVES

This picturesque spot in Jackson Square’s historic Pontalba Buildings serves up both classic and original quaffs, a variety of oysters and other raw bar options. 2529 St. Ann St. Map 3, H5; fives.bar

HOT TIN

Named after a Tennessee Williams play (the playwright once stayed here), this cozy space on the roof of the Pontchartrain Hotel offers creative cocktails, wine by the glass and amazing views. 2031 St. Charles Ave., 504.323.1500. Map 1, D3; hottinbar.com

LAFITTE’S

BLACKSMITH SHOP

This historic cottage dates to the late 1700s. The legends surrounding Lafitte’s are vast; it’s easy to sit in the dark, watching the carriages pass, and imagine yourself back in a den of pirates and privateers. 941 Bourbon St., 504.593.9761. Map 3, H5; lafittesblacksmithshop.com

PAT O’BRIEN’S

Birthplace of the Hurricane cocktail, this complex features four bars, a full menu and the famous courtyard and fountain. A Crescent City must-do. 718 St. Peter St., 504.525.4823. Map 3, G4; patobriens.com

THE PENTHOUSE CLUB

This upscale gentlemen’s club is one of the largest and most popular along the Bourbon Street strip. State-of-the-art lighting and sound systems are featured, along with private suites. 727 Iberville St., 504.524.4354. Map 3, E4; penthouseclub neworleans.com

SAZERAC BAR

Thirties elegance and classic quaffs inside the beautiful Roosevelt Hotel. The perfect place to sample a Sazerac— the official cocktail of New Orleans. 130 Roosevelt Way, 504.648.1200. Map 3, E3; therooseveltneworleans.com

WALK-ON’S

Fittingly within walking distance of the Superdome and

Smoothie King Center, this popular game-day gathering ground, co-owned by Drew Brees, is part restaurant, part sports bar and all fun. 1009 Poydras St., 504.309.6530. Map 3, C3; walkons.com

THE WILL & THE WAY

Tucked between Bourbon and Royal, this easy-to-overlook gem offers a low-key vibe, well-crafted cocktails and an elevated menu of both small and large plates. Start with the beef bulgogi fries. 719 Toulouse St. Map 3, G4; thewillandthe way.com

Live Entertainment

APPLE BARREL BAR

This raffish joint is tiny but has a warm and intimate feel, especially when there’s a blues guitarist or a jazz combo performing in a corner of the room. 609 Frenchmen St., 504.949.9399. Map 3, J4

BLUE NILE

This lively Frenchmen Street venue is simultaneously funky and stylish, with oodles of ambiance. Local acts perform regularly, along with national musicians. 532 Frenchmen St. Map, J5; bluenilelive.com

THE FILLMORE

Harrah’s Casino ups the city’s live-music ante with this 22,000-sq.-ft. offshoot of the legendary San Francisco venue., which features top-tier national touring acts . 6 Canal St., 504.881.1555. Map 3, E6; fillmorenola.com

HOUSE OF BLUES

The New Orleans branch of the national chain consistently tops local best-of lists, mixing big-name tours with homegrown favorites. 225 Decatur St., 504.529.2583. Map 3, F5; hob.com

THE JAZZ PLAYHOUSE

This stylish spot inside the Royal Sonesta recreates the tony jazz clubs of Bourbon Street’s 1950s heyday. A rotating roster of top-tier local talent is featured. 300 Bourbon St., 504.553.2299. Map 3, F4; sonesta.com

MAPLE LEAF

A tin roof and a sweaty dance floor make for a quintessential N’awlins experience fueled by funk from Crescent City greats. 8316 Oak St., 504.866.9359. Map 1, C3; mapleleafbar.com

PRESERVATION HALL

Home to traditional jazz since 1961, this beloved nightspot still packs ’em in despite not serving liquor. 726 St. Peter St., 504.522.2841. Map 3, G4; preservationhall.com

SNUG HARBOR

An intimate mainstay of Frenchmen Street’s music row. Two sets nightly. 626 Frenchmen St., 504.949.0696. Map 3, J4; snugjazz.com

THE SPOTTED CAT

This tiny club has a casual, laid-back vibe and a large, loyal following. Live music starts at 2 pm and continues way into the night. 623 Frenchmen St. Map 3, J5; spottedcatmusicclub.com

STAGE

DOOR CANTEEN

Swing back to a bygone era at this WWII Museum venue, which mounts live musical productions reminiscent of 1940s USO shows. 945 Magazine St., 504.529.1943. Map 3, B6; stagedoorcanteen.org

THREE MUSES

A veritable nightlife trifecta: excellent handcrafted cocktails, delicious small plates and live local music. 536 Frenchmen St., 504.252.4801. Map 3, J5; 3 musesnola.com

TIPITINA’S

The legendary Tips offers an eclectic, always-entertaining lineup, killer acoustics and multiple bars. 501 Napoleon Ave., 504.895.8477. Map 1, D4; tipitinas.com

TOULOUSE THEATRE

This venue takes its name from a former cinema in the same location. Local acts share billing with visiting performers from around the globe. 615 Toulouse St., 504.571.9771. Map 3, G5; toulousetheatre.com

MAP 1: NEW ORLEANS METRO & JEFFERSON PARISH

MAP 2: SOUTH LOUISIANA

MAP 3: CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT & FRENCH QUARTER

AC AC New Orleans, 221 Carondelet St., 962-0700 D4

AH Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., 900-1180 C5

AJ Andrew Jackson Hotel, 919 Royal St., 561-5881 H4

AS Astor Crowne Plaza, 739 Canal St., 962-0500 E4

BI Baronne Inn & Suites, 346 Baronne St., 524-1140 D4

LK Best Western Landmark Hotel, 920 N. Rampart St., 524-3333 H3

BW Best Western St. Christopher, 114 Magazine St., 648-0444 E5

BH Bienville House, 320 Decatur St., 529-2345 F5

BL Blake Hotel New Orleans, 500 St. Charles Ave., 522-9000 C5

BO Bourbon Orleans, 717 Orleans Ave., 523-2222 G4

CA Cambria New Orleans, 632 Tchoupitoulas St., 524-7770 C6

CY Chateau Hotel, 1001 Chartres St., 524-9636 H4

CO Chateau Orleans, 240 Burgundy St., 524-8412 F3

CN Courtyard by Marriott Convention Center, 300 Julia St., 598-9898 C7

DI Courtyard by Marriott Downtown Iberville, 910 Iberville St., 523-2400 E3

CM Courtyard by Marriott New Orleans, 124 St. Charles Ave., 581-9005 E4

DO Dauphine Orleans, 415 Dauphine St., 586-1800 F3

DT Doubletree Hotel New Orleans, 300 Canal St., 581-1300 E5

DR Drury Inn & Suites, 820 Poydras St., 529-7800 C4

EJ The Eliza Jane, 315 Magazine St., 882-1234 D5

EB Embassy Suites by Hilton Convention Center, 315 Julia St., 525-1993 C7

FP Four Points by Sheraton French Quarter, 541 Bourbon St., 524-7611 F4

FS Four Seasons, 2 Canal St., 434-5100 E6

FR The Frenchmen, 417 Frenchmen St., 688-2900 J5

HI Hampton Inn Downtown, 226 Carondelet St., 529-9990 D4

HQ Hampton Inn French Quarter Market, 501 Elysian Fields Ave., 381-0041 J5

HA Hampton Inn & Suites, 1201 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 566-9990 B8

HR Harrah’s Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 533-6000 D6

HH Higgins Hotel & Conference Center, 1000 Magazine St., 528-1941 B6

HT Hilton Garden Inn CBD, 821 Gravier St., 324-6000 D4

HG Hilton Garden Inn Convention Center, 1001 S. Peters St., 525-0044 B7

HL Hilton New Orleans Riverside, 2 Poydras St., 561-0500 D7

SC Hilton New Orleans St. Charles, 333 St. Charles Ave., 524-8890 D4

FI Historic French Market Inn, 501 Decatur St., 561-5621 F5

HC Holiday Inn-Chateau LeMoyne, 301 Dauphine St., 581-1303 F3

HD Holiday Inn-Downtown Superdome, 330 Loyola Ave., 581-1600 D3

HE Holiday Inn Express-St. Charles, 936 St. Charles Ave., 962-0900 B5

HW Homewood Suites by Hilton New Orleans, 901 Poydras St., 581-5599 C4

HS Homewood Suites French Quarter, 317 N. Rampart St., 930-4494 F3

HM Hotel de la Monnaie, 405 Esplanade Ave., 947-0009 J5

HF Hotel Fontenot, 501 Tchoupitoulas St., 571-1818 D6

LM Hotel Le Marais, 717 Conti St., 525-2300 F4

MA Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville St., 581-7300 F4

PP Hotel Peter & Paul, 2317 Burgundy St., 365-5200 K5

PV Hotel Provincial, 1024 Chartres St., 581-4995 H5

SM Hotel St. Marie, 827 Toulouse St., 561-8951 G4

SP Hotel St. Pierre, 911 Burgundy St., 524-4401 H3

HF Hyatt French Quarter Hotel, 800 Iberville St., 586-0800 E4

HP Hyatt Place Convention Center, 881 Convention Center Blvd., 524-1881 C7

HY Hyatt Regency New Orleans, 601 Loyola Ave., 561-1234 C3

IC InterContinental New Orleans, 444 St. Charles Ave., 525-5566 D4

IN International House Hotel, 221 Camp St., 553-9550 D5

JW JW Marriott, 614 Canal St., 525-6500 E4

JU Jung Hotel & Residences, 1500 Canal St., 226-5864 E2

LH Lafayette Hotel, 600 St. Charles Ave., 524-4441 C5

LQ La Quinta Inn & Suites Downtown, 301 Camp St., 598-9977 D5

LE Le Meridien, 333 Poydras St., 525-9444 D6

LP Le Pavillon Hotel, 833 Poydras St., 581-3111 C4

LW Loews New Orleans, 300 Poydras St., 595-3300 D6

MZ Maison de la Luz, 546 Carondelet St., 814.7720 C5

MD Maison Dupuy, 1001 Toulouse St., 586-8000 G3

MR Marriott New Orleans, 555 Canal St., 581-1000 E4

MW Marriott Warehouse Arts District, 859 Convention Ctr. Blvd., 577-1520 C7

ML Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., 523-3341 E4

90 Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel, 905 Royal St., 523-0219 H4

NO NOPSI Hotel, 317 Baronne St., 844-439-1463 D4

OV Olivier House, 828 Toulouse St., 525-8456 F3

OR Omni Riverfront Hotel, 701 Convention Center Blvd., 524-8200 D7

OO Omni Royal Orleans, 621 St. Louis St., 529-5333 F4

OE One11 Hotel, 111 Iberville St., 699.8100 E6

PL Pelham Hotel, 444 Common St., 522-4444 E5

PD Place d’Armes, 625 St. Ann St., 524-4531 H4

PC Prince Conti, 830 Conti St., 529-4172 F4

QC Q&C Hotel, 344 Camp St., 587-9700 D5

RA Renaissance Arts Hotel, 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 613-2330 C6

PM Renaissance Père Marquette, 817 Common St., 525-1111 D4

RE Residence Inn by Marriott Downtown, 345 St. Joseph St., 522-1300 B6

RZ Ritz-Carlton Maison Orleans, 921 Canal St., 524-1331 E4

RO Roosevelt New Orleans-Waldorf Astoria, 130 Roosevelt Way, 648-1200 E3

RC Royal Crescent, 535 Gravier St., 527-0006 D5

RF Royal Frenchmen, 700 Frenchmen St., 619-9660 J4

RS Royal Sonesta, 300 Bourbon St., 586-0300 F4

RH Royal St. Charles Hotel, 135 St. Charles Ave., 587-3700 D4

SJ St. James Hotel, 330 Magazine St., 304-4000 D5

ST Sheraton, 500 Canal St., 525-2500 E5

SH Spring Hill Suites by Marriott, 301 St. Joseph St., 522-3100 C7

VH Virgin Hotels New Orleans, 550 Baronne St., 833-791-7700 C4

WQ ‘W’ French Quarter, 316 Chartres St., 581-1200 F4

WO Westin Canal Place, 100 Iberville St., 566-7006 E5

WH The Whitney Hotel, 610 Poydras St., 581-4222 D5

WC Windsor Court, 300 Gravier St., 523-6000 D6

WG Wyndham Garden Baronne Plaza, 201 Baronne St., 522-0083 D4

WQ Wyndham New Orleans French Quarter, 124 Royal St., 529-7211 E4

PARTING SHOT

Sticking Point

Paying homage to southern Louisiana culture, SeaGem Studios’ line of seafood- and voodoothemed ceramic serving ware is found in gift shops citywide.