MORNING STAR • SEPT. 27 - OCT. 3, 2007
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Fall brings an embarrassment of riches in apples I never tire of reading about, cooking with and especially eating ORETTA NORR apples. A really good one can almost make me forget that summer has flown away. In the past, our market choices were limited to a couple of baking varieties and one or two good eating apples like the popular Red Delicious. Today we have an embarrassment of riches in flavors, textures and versatility. My current fave is the Jonagold. A product of the blissful wedding of the Jonathan and the Golden Deli1/4-inch cious apple, the Jonagold is simply perfecthick slices tion. Depending on the climate and area in 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar, plus 2 tablewhich it’s grown, the Jonagold’s color can spoons vary from pale green with a lovely splash 2 tablespoons minced shallots of red to solid red. Since Jonagolds can be 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon sugar quite large, they’re perfect for a filling, 1 and 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosecrisp, sweet-tart, juicy, snack — one with mary no fat or cholesterol. If that weren’t 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper enough, the Jonagold can stand up to sal1 and 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard ads, strong cheeses, sauces and desserts. 1 teaspoon soy sauce On the off chance that you haven’t eaten 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt them all before you can think about other 1 and 1/2 teaspoons green onions uses, try substituting the Jonagold for the 1/2 cup vegetable oil variety called for in your favorite sweet or Combine the apples, cider vinegar, savory apple recipe. shallots, sugar, rosemary and black pepper Here are three of the Food Network’s in a skillet and bring to a simmer. Reduce top 10 reviewed apple recipes. You may, the heat to low, cover and simmer until of course, go with the regulars but you the apples are tender, about 6 minutes. Rewon’t be disappointed if you send in the move from the heat and transfer to a Jonagold from the bench. It may become blender or food processor. the starter on your A-team! Add the mustard, soy sauce, kosher salt and green onions and puree on high speed. Fillet of Pork with Rosemary-Apple With the motor running, add the oil in a Vinaigrette thin stream and process until emulsified. Courtesy of Emeril Lagasse, 2002 Remove from the blender and refrigerate Serves 4 in an airtight container until ready to 2 (1 to 1 and 1/2 pound) pork tenderloins serve. The vinaigrette will keep for up to 1 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard week refrigerated. 1/2 cup Rosemary-Apple Vinaigrette (recipe follows) Grilled Apple, Bacon and Cheddar 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Sandwich with Roasted Red Onion 1 and 1/2 teaspoons salt Mayo 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Courtesy of Paula Deen, 2007 Using a sharp knife, trim all fat and silMakes one sandwich ver skin from the tenderloins and set aside. 2 slices (1/2-inch-thick) sourdough, multi In a medium bowl, combine the musgrain or another hearty bread tard, vinaigrette and vegetable oil and 4 slices thick-cut bacon, cooked crisp whisk to combine. Transfer contents to a 4 slices Cheddar cheese resealable plastic bag and add the tender1/2 Granny Smith apple, cored, sliced thin loins. Turn the tenderloins so that they are Roasted Red Onion Mayo (recipe follows) evenly coated with the marinade, then seal Butter the bag, trying to remove as much air as Preheat a seasoned grill pan or griddle possible. Refrigerate for 45 minutes. over medium heat. Spread 1 slice of bread Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. with some Red Onion Mayo, then top with Heat a large sauté pan or skillet over high 2 slices Cheddar, the bacon, the apple heat. When hot, add the tenderloins and brown on all sides, turning occasionally to ensure even cooking, about 6 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook until the tenderloins are medium to medium-well, or register 140 to 150 degrees F on a meat thermometer, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the meat from the oven and allow to rest for 5 minutes before serving. Slice the meat into 1/2-inch thick slices on the diagonal, and serve immediately, with some of the remaining Rosemary AppleVinaigrette spooned over top.
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The Practical Gourmet
Rosemary-Apple Vinaigrette 1 (4-ounce) Granny Smith apple, cored, peeled, and cut into
bean size bits of butter, about 10 times. Add the egg and pulse 1 to 2 times; don’t let the dough form into a ball in the machine. (If the dough is very dry add up to a tablespoon more of cold water.) Remove bowl from the machine, remove the blade and bring the dough together by hand. Form the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 1 hour. Put the lemon juice in a medium bowl. Peel, halve and core the apples. Cut each half into 4 wedges. Toss the apple with the lemon juice. Add the sugar and toss to combine evenly. In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the apples, and cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture begins to simmer, about 2 minutes. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until the apples soften and release most of their juices, about 7 minutes. Strain the apples in a colander over a medium bowl to catch all the juice. Shake the colander to get as much liquid as possible. Return the juices to the skillet, and simmer over medium heat until thickened and lightly caramelized, about 10 minutes. In a medium bowl, toss the apples with the reduced juice and spices. Set aside to cool completely. (This filling can be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated, or frozen for up to 6 months.) Cut the dough in half. On a lightly floured surface, roll each half of dough into a disc about 11 to 12 inches wide. Layer the dough between pieces of parchment or wax paper on a baking sheet, and refrigerate for at least 10 minutes. Place a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Line the bottom of a 9-inch pie pan with one of the discs of dough, and trim it so it lays about 1/2 inch beyond the edge of the pan. Put the apple filling in the pan and mound it slightly in the center. Brush the top edges of the dough with the egg. Place the second disc of dough over the top. Fold the top layer of dough under the edge of the bottom layer and press the edges together to form a seal. Flute the edge as desired. Brush the surface of the dough with egg and then sprinkle with sugar. Pierce the top of the dough in several places to allow steam to escape while baking. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. Bake the pie on a baking sheet until the crust is golden, about 50 minutes. Cool on a rack before serving.
slices, then 2 more slices of Cheddar, finishing with another mayo-slathered slice of bread. Butter the outsides of the bread and transfer to the hot grill. Grill about 3 minutes per side, since this sandwich is so thick. Cut the sandwich in half to serve. Roasted Red Onion Mayo 1 medium red onion, chopped 2 teaspoons olive oil Salt and pepper 1 cup mayonnaise Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. On a small-rimmed baking sheet, toss the red onion, olive oil, salt and pepper together. Roast in the oven for 25 to 30 minutes until the onion is very soft, stirring occasionally. Remove from oven and let cool. Transfer to a food processor and buzz until finely chopped. Add the mayo and pulse until smooth and combined. Apple Pie From Food Network Kitchens Serves 6 to 8 Dough 2 and 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 4 teaspoons sugar 1/4 teaspoon fine salt 14 tablespoons cold butter, diced 1 large egg, lightly beaten with 2 tablespoons cold water Filling 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 3 pounds baking apples like Golden Delicious, Cortland, or Mutsu 2/3 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling on the pie 1/4 cup unsalted butter 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon Generous pinch of ground nutmeg 1 large egg, lightly beaten To make the dough by hand: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar and salt. Using your fingers, work the butter into the dry ingredients until it resembles yellow corn meal mixed with bean sized bits of butter. (If the flour/butter mixture gets warm, refrigerate it for 10 minutes before proceeding.) Add the egg and stir the dough together with a fork or by hand in the bowl. If the dough is dry, sprinkle up to a tablespoon more of cold water over the mixture. To make the dough in a food processor: With the machine fitted with the metal blade, pulse the flour, sugar and salt until combined. Add the butter and pulse until it resembles yellow corn meal mixed with SPREAD THE WORD
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