I S S U E
0 2 -
A P R
1 3
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EDITORS NOTE tides. Inborn with an overachieving streak, this small nation is definitely a growing giant that plans to take not only the fashion but the art industry by storm. With its metropolitan vibe and geographical advantage, it has been able to form a balance of cultures from the east as well as the west. For a long time now, there is talk about the rise of the orient ... The sleeping dragon ... An Asian persuasion - but the affluence and the hunger for something growing. This issue of MODA looks at the regional inspir- Asians which are taking the lead in shaping the industry, as well as the changing mentality driving the maturity and direction of the creative industry towards a second renaissance - where accounting/finance is not the degree you must get in order to “make it”.
contents
As the epicentre of Asia, Singapore has become a vital player in the changing of
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The worlds eyes are shifting towards Asia not only as clients with a maturing palate who appreciate the finer things in life, but as a force to be reckoned with; fusing together traditional techniques and values with technology and innovation.
In the last few months alone we were served with fashion shows and art festivals galore within the region - Art Stage Singapore, Fide Couture Week, Hello! Shibuya Tokyo, to the more recent Audi Fashion Festival / Star Creations, and Blueprint. And like most Asian take away, we’re left hungry for more...
P h o t o g r a p h e r GLADYS NG S t y l i s t G A B R I E L TA N / R E Y M E H U S A I N I M a k e u p A r t i s t MICHELLE CHIN H a i r s t y l i s t MARK CHENG
XX AKITO
M o d e l s ULI CHAN
Cover Page Photo: Outfits from FOREWORD & ONG SHUNMUGAN; Headpiece, Stylist’s Own
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Fine Print
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Made in Asia - Guo Pei
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Blueprint 2013
087
Listings
issue 02 Is produced by Editor-In-Chief Cornelyus Tan | cornelyus@modamagsg.com Editor Akito Kun | akito@modamagsg.com DEPUTY Editor Gabriel Tan | gabriel@modamagsg.com Creative Director Aaron Han | aaron@modamagsg.com art Director Darren Tan | darrenv @modamagsg.com Fashion Editor Reyme Husaini | reyme@modamagsg.com Chief Photographer Gladys Ng | gladys@modamagsg.com Contributors Carlos Khu CY Leong Alvin Loh Ckay Liow Michelle Chin Pippin Emerald Mark Cheng Uli Chan Matthew J Fam Nicole Lee Jessica Ee Erika Tan Li Siwen
Amanda Mok Lijuan Yeo Tarandip Kaur Jeri Soh Neeza Rahim Gwendolyn Chin Voon Wei Bryan Siew Grace Koch Khairul Ayul Ruth Lim Cheong Yue Han Qashrul Frey Soh
For advertising enquiries: advertise@modamagsg.com If you want to collaborate/contribute/submit your work: contribute@modamagsg.com For any other enquiries or if you just want to say hi: general@modamagsg.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in MODA Magazine are those of the respective contributors, and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or staff. MODA welcomes all unsolicited contributors, but cannot accept responsibility for any possible loss of damage of the submitted material.
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Fashionhopping
S H I B U YA S T Y L E IN SINGAPORE
W r i t e r
AKITO
SILENTLY SOPHISTICATED
07
Next is Max Tan - whos collection will definately get heads turning! The stark contrast between the red and black colour blocking with varying textures of harsh leather and soft plush fabrics - elegant enough for an evening out, yet structued enough for any power meeting in the office. Perhaps the Devil should wear Max Tan in addition to the Prada...
EVERYONE’S PROBABLY REALLY FAMILIAR WITH WHAT HARAJUKU STYLE IS IN THE WORLD OF FASHION. ITS HIGH ENERGY, CUTE, FUN, BOLD, COLOURFUL, COLORLESS, PUNK, GOTH - THE NUMBER OF FASHIONS AND SUBFASHIONS ARE BRILLIANT AND AMAZING - YET SOMETIMES OVERWHELMING. THOUGH IT SEEMS TO BE SOMETHING WHICH CAN BE CARRIED, HARAJUKU STYLE MAY OFTEN THAN NOT BE HARD TO PULL OFF IN PLACES OUTSIDE OF JAPAN. BUT YOU’RE IN LUCK! QUIET AND STRONG, RELIABLE AND NEVER OUT OF STYLE - SHIBUYA STYLE IS MAKING ITSELF HEARD IN THE STREETS OF SINGAPORE. ALTHOUGH IT HAS BEEN A WHILE SINCE THE HELLO, SHIBUYA TOKYO SHOW EARLIER THIS YEAR - THE SIMPLE FACT REMAINS THAT ONCE WE GOT A TASTE, WE KNEW WE WANTED MORE. SO WHAT IS SHIBUYA STYLE YOU SAY? THE DESIGNERS SHOW CASING DEFINATELY GOT IT RIGHT - ITS THAT SOFTLY SOPHISTICATED, QUIET YET BOLD STATEMENT THAT GRABS YOUR ATTENTION AT MULTIPLE LEVELS AS YOU DECIPHER MORE AND MORE DETAIL WITH EACH AND EVERY PLEAT, CUT AND STITCH.
But it is with Anrelage where the height of innovative fashion in Japan in shown in heart stopping manner. With the lights dimmed, and the music pulsing in the
THREE TOP DESIGNERS WHO BRING THIS ESSENCE TO FORM WITH THEIR COLLECTIONS DEFINED THIS STYLE. NOTABLY MINT DESIGNS FROM JAPAN, OUR VERY OWN MAX TAN, AND THE DELICIOUSLY TALENTED ANRELAGE
background - model after model stream down the runway with ther faces painted black to really display the architecture of
ALL BROUGHT VARYING DEPTH TO WHAT SHIBUYA STYLE CAN BE CONSIDERED AS IT IS TODAY, TOMORROW, AND
the collection aptly named Bones. Parts of
PERHAPS IN 2030.
the collection glow luminously through the UV light and coupled with the biaural beats - we were all in awe. Though the collection is definatey not quiet - the clash between the kaleidescopic detailing within the familiar shilouettes is simply amazing. Tickled with a taste of this style, MODA wonders if there are any takers to this now better understood fashion style. If you think you’ve got what it takes to embody tomorrows look with Max Tan? Head on Mint designs shows off the subtle Shibuya
over the Threadbare and Squirrel to get a
style coupled with the shocking head pieces
piece of his collection to your wardrobe. But
which steal the show flowy and chic embodying
if you’re a bit more daring - or simply just
effortless statement style. The colours and
from the future - head on over to club 21b
patterns forming a soft yet structured look -
at the Forum shopping mall for a slice of the
perfect for anyone who wants to fit in but stand
Anrelage heaven.
out.
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Fashionhopping
KAE HANA PEPLUM TOP
FINE PRINT
A r t D i r e c t i o n
AARON HAN
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FINE PRINT
A CLOSER LOOK AT THE FINER DETAILS
MASH-UP OVERSIZED TEE
EVENODD CABLE KNIT TEE
00
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PAV E SNAKE SKIN TEE MILS PRINTED TEE
DEPRESSION UNICORN TEE REVASSEUR NAUTICAL TEE
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E d i t o r i a l
THE WALL FLOWER
P h o t o g r a p h e r G L A D Y S N G S t y l i s t
G A B R I E L TA N / R E Y M E H U S A I N I
M a k e u p A r t i s t
MICHELL CHIN
H a i r s t y l i s t M A R K C H E N G M o d e l s
ULI CHAN
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W r i t e r
F a s h i o n P R O F I L E
AMANDA MOK
If the name Thomas Wee doesn’t
In the years of his absence, a fresh crop of designers
quite ring a bell, now is just
early 1990s like Peter Kor and Celia Loe thrived on
about the right time to crawl out
have emerged. Where labels in the late 1980s and filling a niche meeting the demand for consumerfriendly affordable womenswear, this new generation
from that teeny-tiny little rock
of designers is aiming for anything but mass-market.
crevice you’ve been hiding in for
is now fuelled by a desire for individual expression.
What used to be driven by functionality and ubiquity Rising stars include Max Tan, whose label Max.Tan
the past three decades or so.
is known for pieces that marry androgyny with soft geometry, while label Mae Pang by designer Pang
No matter, here’s the lowdown: Hailed
as
Singapore’s
Aimei, is instantly recognizable by its neon mesh pieces and evolution of shapes and cutouts.
top
this was evident as ever in his demi-couture presentation entitled ‘Austere’ at Haute Couture Week 2012. Sharp cuts, strong lines and sculpture dominated the runway, and austere it certainly was. As much as there were beautiful pops of colour in jewel tones of violet, cerulean and deep crimson, they were always set against a base of sobering matte black. Strict, unadorned, sumptuous fabrics were manipulated to create
veteran designer, his first claim
structural volume.
to fame was to be awarded
Known for his fine cutting abilities, his principle has always been to never try to hard. Where other
the title of Finalist in the first
designers have chosen to focus on the bells and whistles, Thomas Wee feels that learning the technical aspects of engineering a garment is far more important. He recalls visiting a Yves Saint Laurent boutique
Young Fashion Designer Contest
in Paris in 1982 because he was dying to see the construction of the famed Le Smoking jacket, paying
organized by Her World magazine
attention to the seams and fabric.
in 1978.
He also took pains to borrow a few Armani jackets from a friend, unpicking the lining so that he might learn to such details that he managed to achieve the perfect cut of his jackets, earning him the title “King of the
Over a span of 35 years, Thomas
WEE
THOMAS
from the kind of interfacing and shoulder pads that they used. It was through his observations and attention jacket”.
Wee has represented Singapore
Following the enthusiastic response to his demi-couture presentation in which Didier Grumbach, the
on the international platform
president of the Federation Francaise de la Couture du Prêt-a-porter highly lauded, Thomas Wee is certainly
including the fashion capitals of
premium multi-label boutique Coda Co. at Scott’s Square.
not resting on his laurels. His demi-couture pieces and prêt-a-porter collections are currently stocked at
Paris, Milan, London and Tokyo. Starting out as a high fashion designer, he carved a niche for himself with his very own
In spite of his absence at the forefront, Thomas Wee is still widely regarded as being the best designer
Thomas Wee Boutique De Luxe
Singapore has ever produced. In recent years, he
exclusives, but later turned to
to reclaim the throne he never abdicated starting
seems to be emerging from his decade-long hiatus
pursuing the mass market with
with a much-anticipated, sensational comeback
more affordable diffusion lines.
open Women’s Fashion Week 2011 with a 1940s
at the 2008 Audi Fashion Festival. He went on to glamour- inspired collection, and most recently showed a special demi-couture presentation at the
It was at the height of his career
FIDE 2012 Haute Couture Week.
in 1997 that the Asian financial
In spite of Thomas Wee’s track record and longevity
crisis hit, and he went into
in the industry, the question that begs to be asked is,
retirement,
still relevant and representative of the Singaporean
teaching
fashion
design and pattern drafting at the Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts in 1999. He is currently a
‘Has he really still got what it takes?’ Is Thomas Wee designer in this new changing landscape? Judging from the collections he’s shown in the last five years, one thing you can be sure of is that Thomas Wee is a man who sticks to his guns. His
senior advisory lecturer at First
philosophy has always been to dress the discerning
Media Design School.
about the quality and execution of a garment, and
woman who is not as label-conscious as she is
To top it off, he has created a capsule collection of six looks, inspired largely by the femininity of the ‘50s. Drawing on the ‘New Look’ silhouette, the hourglass figure is emphasized through fit-and-flare A-line dresses and skirts, and sleek jumpsuits. The colours are limited to a very focused black, red and cream palette, paired with gold accessories. Altogether, although there is a very auspicious ‘Asian’ feel to this collection, what retains its cosmopolitanism is Thomas Wee’s deftness at balancing the yin and yang with panache. After all these years, despite the significant changes that have taken place in the industry, Thomas Wee continues to have a loyal following and is still able to create in a woman the desire for old-world charm and appreciation for dressmaking techniques. Indomitable and in an obvious class of his own, the cut and fit of his garments remain second to none. Avoiding trends, it is inevitable that his creations might be perceived as not being as fancy or relevant today as those of the younger crop of designers, but we think that there is something quite transcendental about truly luxurious, well-made clothing that will stand the test of time. Thomas Wee once said that his design philosophy is to only dress intelligent women. As his demi-couture presentation drew to a close at Haute Couture Week and the models made their final turn down the runway, what truly struck was how much they looked like a fashionable professional brigade. Fashion intelligence, now that’s aspirational.
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E d i t o r i a l
QI GONG
P h o t o g r a p h e r C A R L O S K H U S t y l i s t V O O N W E I / T h e S t y l e A n i m a l M a k e u p A r t i s t
NEEZA RAHIM
H a i r s t y l i s t V I N C E N T T I N G M o d e l s
G W E N D O LY N C H I N / A m b e r C h i a A c a d e m y
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26
00
H E AV E N TA N U D I R E D J A
W r i t e r
KHAIRUL
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F a s h i o n
H E AV E N TA N U D I R E D J A
MADE IN ASIA
When you think of jewellery designs, the one thing that comes to mind
In his defining, attention-getting line titled ‘Pyromania, Trichotillomania,
is surprisingly not what this designer aims to stir through any of his art-
Delusional and Anorexia Nervosa,’ his envision came across very strong,
works. In matter of fact, the designs stood as far away from glamorous,
slapping doubtful critics with a kaleidoscopic of intriguing pieces that yell
unlike many of its counterparts. Jewellery designs have greeted many lady
for attention. Out of this world indeed, his designs featured a beautiful
fans out there with extravagant pieces from big names, just to name a few,
marriage of gold, metallic bronze, pearly white and fiery flame infusion.
Pomellato - that has walked the red carpet at Grammys and The Oscars;
Look closely, not forgetting the protruding hands and chairs that add on
Bvlgari, or even Cartier. Let’s be honest here, are we really talking about
to the revolutionary pieces, aimed to provoke thought. It is not a pleasant
jewellery designs if words spilled out include ‘abstract’, ’gruesome’, or ‘out
sight, but once you surpass the initial shock, you’ll begin to appreciate
of this world’... or was there a miscommunication somewhere?
the craftwork and this visionary man. It is not flattering having such empowering thematic ideas for jewellery – who are we kidding, mental
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Heaven Tanudiredja, is a rare gem in the industry. Having graduated from
disorders for a jewellery line? Truly takes the best among the rest.
a fashion programme at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts back in
It could be the meditation he does twice a day - who knows the tranquillity
2007, this 30-year old designer has made headlines with his futuristic
brings with it Zen and defining ideas; but his designs are polar opposite.
interpretations on designing. Upon graduation, he has gone global with his
The neck pieces, necklaces, with some overpowering the petite figures of
pieces and having founded his line, named ‘Heaven’ for obvious reasons –
the wearer, cuffs and handbags, have abolished the need to stay simple. It
have you seen his pieces? Such heavenly works of Art and coincidentally,
is not Heaven if not for his bold and loud pieces. The attention to details
his first name was optimised for his debut. Working out of Germany, where
he puts into his designs is commendable with every design upstaging the
his studio is, we shall not forget his roots, bringing us back in time where
other. This reaffirms his ability to be inventive with his designs and we
he started off working for Biyan in Jakarta, Indonesia at a tender age of 16.
foresee future creations that are essential for a designer of that calibre to
Come on, not many could master skills and senses in tailoring and colours
stay in the scene.
at that age. Heaven was born and raised mainly in Bali, where he credits his influences and upbringing through his designs.
He constantly brings fresh and statement-making (not only for its size) accessories that are forward-looking and definitely, an acquired taste.
Bali is a lovely city, filled to brim with rich culture and tradition. There are
Fashion rewards the very best in what they do and for Heaven, his
essence of his childhood in his designs where being surrounded by nature
accessories has unravelled the deepest of ideas, the most abstract of
and the influx of exuberant culture in ever day life of a Balinese, we all
visions; and no one has brought these to the plate just yet. He is indeed
know he hasn’t forgotten his homeland. He has a universal impression of
a success story from Asia, we’ve not seen the last of him as speculations
bringing jewellery designing to a whole new level where intervention is
of a new clothing label is amidst the discussion. All eyes are out for that.
seen beforehand and crafted by hand. Moving to Germany to forego his
WWW.HEAVENTANUDIREDJA.BE
passion in fashion, he brought along the luxuriant culture and his simplistic way of life with the intentions to ever give the Europeans a piece of what Indonesia has got to offer for the international market.
Image courtesy to: www.fashioninsing.com
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F a s h i o n O N L I N E / O F F L I N E
ON LINE OFF
W r i t e r
00
AMANDA MOK & VALERIE FOO
Shops. Online shops. Blog shops and pop up shops from online blog shops. The number of shopping experiences available to both me and you these days is ever increasing, and with the borderless restrictions and ever advancing technology at our fingertips; the shopping experience seems to be evolving and growing to match our thirst for having it now...having it first... and having the latest trend of tomorrow, today! But MODA wonders is it really that easy to pop online and click for the latest fashions? How do you know which shops to go to? How will you know that it will be on point? MODA sieves out two of the best online fashion boutiques who source fashions from the runway to your doorway for you to check out!
Derived from the Gnossiennes; a group of classical compositions by French composer Erik Satie, Gnossem stands for innovation in the Arts. “Satie was extremely innovative in the melodies he created in his time, and had a very odd elegance to his work. Gnossem innovates in the eclectic designers that it offers its customers, as well as its continuously refined online shopping experience.” Gnossem believes in selling pieces that have a story behind them, so as to make its buyers’ wardrobes truly special. Besides the designer or collection’s own story, design authenticity
YESAH! GATEWAY INTO CHINA
and quality of materials play a part when it comes to choosing designers for the e-store. “While everyone understands the value of creative design and high quality materials,
Still hooked on the Korean style? Head on over to Yesah! to take a look see at
they often overlook the importance of having
the trending fashions of China as developed by one of Singapore’s very own
a story behind their fashion items. Knowing
indie ‘It’ girls, Model-DJ-Designer Linda Hao, Yesah is the first e-store that features exclusive young Chinese independent labels. With regular updates of new labels, the selection is handpicked and carefully curated, consisting of sprightly, unique fashion items that look like Linda could have designed for her personal wardrobe. “Yes-ah!!! is actually like a pet phrase I always say when I get excited for something! So to me it’s an expression of euphoria,” shares Linda. “I want people to be happy and excited about fashion, so I thought Yesah is really appropriate [for the store name], and it’s so catchy right?” When it comes to choosing designers and pieces to offer, Yesah carefully curates store exclusive unique pieces that are not easily available in Singapore. “So long as something catches my eye, that’s it – Buy immediately!” she exclaims. Born in Shanghai and raised in Singapore since she was 7, ‘Balance; is the word she uses to describe this duality that has played a major role in shaping the person she is today, as well has her perspectives on fashion. Apart from that, Japanese street culture has encouraged Hao to experiment with the quirky and sometimes downright outrageous. When asked about her current favourite Chinese indie designer/label, she chose Renee from SuperR, which is a reflection of her mix-and-match style that marries thrifted clothes to designer pieces. “I love her stuff cos it’s sooo bold and daring, and yet it’s super wearable. It’s all about mix matching,” she says. Have YOU heard of them? Former MTV VJ Holly Grabarek personifies Linda’s attitude, quirkiness and fearless hunt for fun and excitement in Yesah’s latest campaign. The e-store aims to bring the hippest underground labels from around the world to women who fancy one-of-a-kind pieces at competitive prices. But what about fashions a bit closer to home? What if I’m looking for something that might be a bit more weather friendly? I may look sickening in a fur and feather bolero - but if my face has melted down my neck, maybe its not the best look. WWW.YESAH.NET
ENTER GNOSSEM
that a certain ring was crafted by the designer himself and only five were made, or that the lace on a dress was hand-sewn by an aspiring designer by night as she works all day to make ends meet, or that a bikini can only be bought in a small boutique in Rio de Janeiro or our online store... These stories add meaning to your fashion pieces.” Nagicia by Tricia Kim and Killari are on top of Crosswhite’s list of favourite Asian indie designers/labels for accessories. “These designers create such innovative and modern designs that are statement yet wearable ... For clothing, I’m a huge fan of Justin Yap for cocktail dresses and evening gowns, and Simone Irani for resort wear.” She also adds that Rue De makes “great basics” that are “just so high quality to the touch”. Gnossem intends to increase its offering of gorgeous, rare designer wear to customers around the world. “You can get rather addicted to shopping for high quality, exclusive pieces, especially when you don’t need to leave your office or house!” she smiles. “Our dream is to provide a high-end online marketplace for all lovers of independent designer fashion, from New York to Mumbai, Seoul and Singapore!” WWW.GNOSSEM.COM
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F a s h i o n
A R T I ST R Y I N FAS H I O N
MAD
W r i t e r
M AT T H E W FA M
ABOUT HUE
A R T I S T R Y I N FA S H I O N
The sister faculties of Art and Fashion have always been closely
The curation is a process evident in Quaintrelle’s designs, which
related. From Yves Saint Laurent’s (now re-named Saint Laurent
were borne from Emmy Award winning cinematographer, Dr. Jim
Paris) 60’s mod shift dress inspired by the grid- like abstract
Frazier’s crystal photography. But the process of how these el-
paintings of Piet Mondrian to the recent pairings of Yayoi Kusa-
egant scarves are developed is both simple and what caught our
ma’s polka- dot ensemble with Louis Vuitton, the link between
attention.
art and fashion has been inextricable. Ondina coolly shares with us, while poised and wrapped Wind This pinkie-promise connection has been a gateway as to which
Dance with its cyan hue swathed in paint brush-like streaks of
Asian Art gains global prominence through its transposition onto
lemon yellow and lilac (her personal favorite in the series), that
fashion. Apart from Kusama and her collaboration with Louis
she uses Frazier’s technique, where crystals are grown on glass
Vuitton’s spotty satchels ...bags ...wallets - all gorgeous, yes we
sheets. After applying a special solution, they proliferate and are
know, other Asian artists like Takashi Murakami have also seen
manipulated to form unique patterns that resemble outlandish
their works mould the direction of fashion collections.
landscapes. The real magic occurs when coloured light is shone behind these pattern-forming crystals before being snapped on
Such links have now taken another bold step forward with Mad
film.
About Hue’s cross- disciplinary and revolutionary dealings are
But another striking element to Mad About Hue, is that not only
not just in fine art, but blurs this with unique craftsmanship and
translates art into fashion, but prides itself in community trade
photography to create and curate the latest Quaintrelle collec-
so workers in these countries are fairly compensated for their
tion.
skills. Such native crafts are essential in the manufacturing process, thus highlighting the cross-cultural collaboration that
The collection features a series of silk scarves with nature-in-
Madabouthue is steeped in. This is especially seen in one designs
spired images; and honey, the hills are alive!
where onion skins are heat pressed onto silk fabrics to create a natural dye imprint. The process is repeated, creating a work that
Grasslands, dandelions, and flights of fancy aside, Quaintrelle
is singly crafted and unique. “No two scarves of a design will be
has the colour wheel covered. Veering from dynamic clashes of
the same”, we’re told. And to elevate that factor of exclusivity,
vermillion on violet in Birds & Bees - a piece from the collec-
each scarf is on a limited edition run of 200 pieces.
tion resembling feathers and the wings of moths, the series also parlays into muted tones for those who fear a flashy garb. Each
MODA is simply in LOVE with how effortless the scarves from
design also comes in multiple colour schemes so nobody gets left
Quaintrelle melds into just about any outfit. You can wear it
out and YES! we want one in e-v-e-r-y colour.
loosely twisted around the neck, or artfully braided into more elaborate folds; twilled round your bag straps, or as a statement
The delicate fabrics are hot on the fashion radar of digital prints
piece in a monochromatic outfit. Plus, try playing it girly with
- a big trend, like, everywhere? But luckily for us, making its
classic ascot ties, serving major vintage sweetheart realness.
launch in Asia; Mad About Hue reinforces fusions of various art
For those who think that a scarf is a sign of being a softie, Quain-
forms as contributor to the unique design ethos in which the
trelle puts your doubts at rest: try sneaking a silk piece into your
brand spearheads.
high-street ensemble for an edgy take on this sophisticated accessory. “Ultimately, we want women to feel confident and inde-
For an exclusive peek into the making of these fluid silks, MODA
pendent, and this accessory is the go-to in achieving just that.”
gets in touch with the brains behind the brand who stresses its collaboration-conscious nature that thrusts the brand ahead of
Always on the lookout for new collaborations with artists, “a
the pack. “I work with artists because I enjoy finding creative,
ready-to-wear collection is in the works. We’re looking into
like- minded people, and exposing them to the world.” says On-
manufacturing kaftans. I’ve also started designing for home ac-
dina, CEO and founder of Mad About Hue.
cessories... Next year, what we will be doing is to curate artists; we take inspiration in their work, and put their designs into our
Touting itself as “a boutique company that collaborates with art-
product. At the moment we only do scarves and we are a scarf
ists, photographers and designers”, there is a strong dedication
company but we would branch out for sure.”
and conviction to cross multiple mediums of art and translating them in ready-to-wear fashion. The LaSalle College of the Arts
MODA is excited to hear that this is simply just the beginning -
Interior Design alumnus explains, “They send images to me, and I
where the focus will shift on involving artists from the region in
curate them; I will see whether the colours match the collection.
its future works. Mad About Hue is clearly poised as an initiator
I then adapt them into a fashion product from whatever they are
of an active artistic community, where ideas are freely connected
doing.”
and expressed in a myriad of ways; where photos turn to scarves and imagination into a dozen manifestations.
38
E d i t o r i a l
A COUTURE GHOST STORY
P h o t o g r a p h e r C Y L E O N G S t y l i s t B R Y A N S I E W M a k e u p A r t i s t
A LV I N LO H
H a i r s t y l i s t C K A Y L I O W M o d e l s
G W E N D O LY N C H I N / A m b e r C h i a A c a d e m y
44
M u s i c
OBEDIENT WIVES CLUB
W r i t e r
RUTH LIM
www.facebook.com/obedientwivesclub
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OBEDIENT WIVES CLUB Rarely do we come across a band like
KEITH TAN GUITARIST
Obedient Wives Club. Infectious, upbeat yet nostalgic - this indie pop sound pulls at the heartstrings with a dash of femme fatale which keeps our feet dancing, heart beating and leave us yearning for more. Drawing on various musical inspirations from the likes of Best Coast, Obedient Wives Club are truly setting themselves in a comfortably novel place of their own in Singapore’s local music scene.
www.twitter.com/obedientwives
chase for each much loved new EP release, their most recent one (Murder Kill Baby) had successfully sold out within less than three hours! In a world of many delightful forms of indie music, the five- member band goes straight back to the roots with the extraordinary Phil Spector’s ‘Wall of Sound’ used to fuel their musical hunger. Their chemistry and spontaneity simply flourishes on their exciting new EP, where
CHERIE KO LEAD GUITARIST BACK UP VOCALS
chord progressions, melody, bass, beat tie in seamlessly with the darker lyrics. Murder Kill Baby as the name suggests, draws from the darker themes around life, death and bondage; the ones that instantly caught our attention were Razor Wire Love Song perfectly melodizing the kiss/ kill excitement about an S&M relationship and Requiem For A Lover depicting a lover dying in one’s arms, and Stay Perfect which draws on the obsessive compulsive
SULAIMAN SUPIAN BASSIST
rush of loving someone from afar. Despite the darker theme of the EP, distinct rays of light shine through each song whether it be through their instrumental artistry or carefully curated play on words keeping the pace fluid and alive. Where noise movement is rarely found saturated in today’s music industry, this is one refreshing band that is making themselves heard by feeding listeners with
LENNAT MAK DRUMMER
a melancholic feel- good aftertaste.
Get The Latest Ep Murder Kill Baby :
YIN QI LEE VOCALIST
of lo-fi dream pop lovers who earnestly
www.obedientwivesclub.bandcamp.com/album/murder- kill-baby
With a fast and ever-growing fan base
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A R T S T A G E C O N V E R S A T I O N W I T H J O H N C L A N G
W r i t e r
GRACE KOCH
with that kind of recording, fifty or hundred years later, we can actually see what men living now are thinking. That’s what I mean by the mark of time. You were the winner of the President’s Design Award in 2012, do you pressured to outdo yourself ever since winning? No. Winning or not winning - I’ve never had an expectation of that at all. Someone once asked me, “How do you want to be remembered?” From the beginning, when I started my work, there was no such platform in Singapore. Whatever you see now didn’t exist fifteen or sixteen years ago. It was barren. There was no arts scene in terms of contemporary photography. So when I started, there was no asking for anything in return or anything. It was just because I believed it when I was fifteen. I continued to do what I wanted to do. In that sense I don’t expect anything. I don’t expect to be known. I believe that my journey is of the upmost importance. I want to outdo myself. To stay original. I want my work to be inspiring to myself. I want my work to be a true representation of myself at each stage. I don’t produce a lot. Even though you see my work on the web or anywhere, it’s only because I belong to the pre- internet age. When I did my earlier work, they did not surface on the websphere. With the Internet, the work seems to be spreading all over the place. So I have works that are done say twelve years ago appearing on websites and people are talking about it now. And it sounds as though it was done last year. Because it’s new to them. It’s quite interesting to me because the work that I thought people had forgotten shows up online and suddenly it is fresh again and it becomes a new topic. Especially Beon Sleeps (2002) which shows a man lying in the MRT train and everywhere else. I’ve already had that statement in mind at that time. About how this person is trying to catch up with the system, the expectation of society, and wanting to have the world slow down for him, so that he can catch up. Right now in Singapore, that is obviously what is happening. People feel like they are being left behind. The pictures then become very poignant.
When it comes to the contemporary photography scene in Singapore, one name comes to mind - John Clang. Ever since the tender age of fifteen, Clang’s innate affinity towards the photographic arts has always seen him produce work that is leaps and bounds beyond his current generation. At the age of forty, the New York based visual artist and photographer has shot for some of the most influential commercial names such as Hermes, IBM, Godiva, Levi’s and Nike. His newest work, The Myth of the Flat Earth subtly explores the struggles of falling in line with societal expectations, was presented at the Art Stage Singapore 2013 by 2902 Gallery. His second on-going exhibition, Being Together: Family & Portraits - Photographing with John Clang, can be viewed at the National Museum of Singapore from Jan 23 to May 26. The 90 some prints and photographs in addition to other families also include intimate familiar moments between his own parents and brother, exposing parts of Clang’s childhood. The motive behind this carefully organized project is to artfully depict the changing structures of families today who are scattered across different geographical parts of the world. Through the use of “Skype” and a projection device, family members are reunited semi-virtually. The resulting effect is nothing short of relatable and heart-warming. Over a frothy cup of coffee while Art Week 2013 was in full swing, MODA caught up with John Clang whose real name is John Ang Choon Leng; on his beginnings as a photographer, his obsessions, and new upcoming projects. What got you started and interested in photography? I wanted to do something that I can express myself, my thoughts. I wasn’t interested in using photography as a medium of documentary. At that point in time, everyone was using photography simply as a pictorial or as a document. When I discovered that I could do more, that’s when I decided to focus on photography instead of going into sculptural installations or anything else. Was there a point in time when you realized that “yes, photography is my medium”? Yes. At fifteen. However the precise moment was when I was seventeen and it was just before my birthday. Back then, I was also an avid competitive table tennis player. But I told myself that I needed to decide between focusing on photography or table tennis. As a teenager, to be doing so well in a sport, to quit is a big thing. On the day of my birthday, I took out my medals and trophies, opened the HBD chute and poured everything inside. I did not touch table tennis until I turned 32. And I am back to competitive playing again. I decided that photography was something I was going to focus on, something that I would live and breathe. But I cannot do that at the same time playing table tennis as well. Because I would be focusing on two things and spread myself too thin. What are themes that you are most obsessed with? The marking of time. I am very particular about time and my fascination with it is quite extreme. I am obsessed with when I create something now, fifty years later, what does it mean to the people then? What it means to the historian or the art historian of that time? Right now when we look at art work or photographs fifty years ago we see vast differences in the change of landscape. But with the current state of photography, everyone has a camera. Be it your phone or tablet. We’ll be recording everywhere and everything. So fifty years later, a hundred years later, there’s no lack of such information. My mind is all about tackling the mind-set of a person. When I was twenty-something, I knew that my work should be my mental diary. Then it’s actually a true recording of somebody who is currently living now. This ordinary man. What is he thinking of? What is he observing? Not touching on any social politics or any big issues. Just touching on simple things that just stick out to me. So
Click - Snap - Wow In your own opinion, what are the toughest parts about being an artist? For me, especially in Singapore, it’s trying to be an artist without trying to be an artist. There’s this stereotype that an artist has to behave like an artist. You have to live like an artist and I strongly disagree with that statement. To me, being an artist means I have to absorb my life experiences. Then only can I transpose my thoughts through the experience itself onto my work. I want to produce work that is sincere, honest and true to what I want to be. To touch on the simple things around me and investigate on them. That to me is the difficult part. About your latest work at Art Stage, when you talk about dreaming and being awake at the same time, what does that mean? I’ve always believed in different dimensions of time. Right now I am talking to you. But I’ve always believed that 5 minutes ago, or 5 minutes later, there would be another me talking to you. That’s why sometimes we have deja vu experiences. Sort of like a loop in a recording. Zhuangzi (Chinese philosopher) had a dream about being a butterfly and he was flying about happily and blissfully. When he woke up he started to ask himself, am I a butterfly or am I Zhuangzi dreaming as a butterfly? So there is this confusion of identity about who he is. In my mind, I am always thinking about whether am I dreaming or am I real? Sometimes when you dream, you actually wake up and you pinch yourself and you ask, is it real? To me there’s no difference. So the work talks about it. We all have dreams and we all want to do something. But at one point, or at which point do we realize that a dream is just a dream and that life moves on, on its own. That we have to face reality that we need to wake up and
we need to be ourselves. The Myth of the Flat Earth talks a lot about that. My work reflects us rushing through life. There’s a video that goes with it. In it, the subjects know that there’s no water in it and yet they don’t stand. They are suffocating and gasping for air. Like fishes out of water. It’s a contradiction of what we are now. What advice can you give to new emerging artists and photographers? I think you need to be really curious and inject your point of view. You don’t have to make your work profound. Don’t try to make your work profound. Try instead to be curious about the subject. What you have in mind. What you are seeing based on your age group and on your experience. I think in that sense you create original work. You need to have high- regard for originality. Only then will the work stand out and travel far. If not, you will be heavily influenced by others because of the web sphere right now. There are so many images out there so often when people do work, they do so with all those images in their heads. They have no idea where the original influence came from and that’s the scary part. They have to be very knowledgeable of what’s out there and who has done what. Short of knowing the art history of it. Thus when they do their work, they will know what is based from what and exactly what they are doing. Then at least they will have complete control and not simply act now and find out later. So be curious and at the same time be knowledgeable of art history. I would emphasize on the art history part of it. Tell us a little bit about what you are working on, and what we can look forward to next. My new project has something to do with love. It will be something a little more abstract. It will be quite a large project as it takes a lot of time and organization. Something to look forward to. Love will be the big word. I like the word love because it’s so “yucks” and so mundane. It’s not very profound but the work will be a contrast of the meaning of the word. It will touch on the sacrifice and the acceptance of it. The project will be done on a global scale as it wouldn’t just be in or centred in Singapore. It would be about people living everywhere else. I am also trying to work on a movie. I am currently going through the movie script and trying to film it here. It would also be about love but it would have more of an art house, abstract feel. Right now I am talking to several people and it would be co-directed together with Chow Wai Tong. So yes, two projects which would take me the next two years to complete. Locations for my projects are not fully confirmed yet but right now I am looking at Iceland. In the summer, the sun never sets. I am going for the unrest sun - that’s what I like. It’s a good expression of my vision of the world. Even when we sleep now, we are all restless.
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A R T S TAG E S I N G A P O R E
W r i t e r
GRACE KOCH
We Are Asia!
To the untrained eye, an art fair is at first glance, highly distracting as hundreds of high-end paintings in a profusion of sizes, large- scale installations with the ability to engulf entire tiny Parisian apartments (Entang Wiharso’s Chronicle Fence and Arne Quine’s Breeding Life), photography that bewilders known physics (John Clang’s When I say you are dreaming, so am I), and sculptures so lifelike it borders upon eerie (Sam Jinks); bombard you all at once. It’s not everyday a consortium of international galleries are gathered at one venue for the sole purpose of catching your attention as it was truly a spectacle to behold at this year’s 3rd Art Stage Singapore at the Marina Bay Sands Convention Centre. Vernissage night at Art Stage saw a fair number of smartly attired international visitors checking out the substantial art fair hall which boasts 131 galleries from 25 countries and a showcase of 600 artists. This time, a careful juxtaposition of local and regional booths are organized alongside heavy weight international galleries such as White Cube, Perrotin, and Eigen + Art; offering a well-balanced diversity of local support for contemporary art while still upholding the premier allure of international offerings. “I love how accessible art is right now in Singapore”, comments one Singaporean VIP guest who has been attending the fair since its conception in 2010. She also remarks that this year’s fair sees an improvement from last year’s rather lacklustre turnout. “I do a fair amount of collecting from around the world so having an international event like this on our home turf certainly
makes travelling much easier and less hectic” she adds. The Art Stage organizers this time around have attempted to place significant emphasis upon cultivating the presence of local art and galleries starting with its theme - We are Asia. It appears from the comments of visitors of the fair that the Singapore Platform was awkwardly laid out and overshadowed by the behemoth that is the Indonesian Pavilion - the largest international showcase with works from 36 artists and collectives. Truly, the emphasis on SouthEast Asian art is not lost; however, the lack of distinction between Singaporean artists among themselves and from other regional booths still leaves a lot to be desired. Having a mere two curated projects, New Black City and I’m an Artist. Now What? is perhaps insufficient in order to establish a lasting impression of emerging Singaporean talent. When it comes to nurturing talent and art appreciation, the President’s Young Talents does the local community justice, with a prominent display of Singapore’s finest. As the night wears on, VIP guests were entitled to an exclusive after-party at the Spider Room lounge located adjacent to glitzy night club Avalon overlooking the Marina Bay skyline. Within the prismatic glassed lounge; collectors, art lovers, gallery owners and society’s elite were smooching with glasses of wine and champagne in tow amidst video conceptual performances relayed on an LED screen. The 300 capacity space soon reached maximum capacity as the rest of the spillover VIPs find themselves standing on the steps of the club entrance. Most attended out of curiosity leading to a large and quick exodus of party-goers heading elsewhere.
The contemporary art scene in Asia is not about to be slowing any time soon. With the branded art fair, Art Basel Hong Kong which is on right now, Art Stage Singapore is about to face serious competition although it will continue to remain an affordable and accessible favourite among collectors and admirers of South East Asian contemporary art. Overall, this third edition of Art Stage trumps its 2012 self, with excellent international and local response, and sales figures of six digits on the first day alone; making Singapore a promising art destination to look out for in the Asia Pacific region.
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W r i t e r
TA R A N D I P K A U R
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One glance at India and the following words
innovative prints, anyone fancy cow prints on your
Week for a couple of years. Manish Arora has an
would pop into an outsider’s mind in a brisk
blazer?
attractive quirky sensibility and while his designs
second, ‘traditional’, ‘conservative’, ‘colourful’,
may consist of relatively western silhouettes,
‘handiwork’ and ‘conventional’. Several of those
As with every type of traditional wear, there
his inspiration tends to be a derivative of India.
words may describe India in the 50-60s and even
comes a certain acceptable range of designs
Manish Arora has been based in Paris since
in some regions today but bless your innocent soul
and prints, where transgressing it may either be
2007 but his roots run deeper in his homeland,
because several parts of India have progressed,
seen with dissent or newfound affection. This is
influencing his styles in multiple ways. As some
for the better.
where Masaba is a novelty, her sarees are often
would know, Manish Arora has been dubbed
laced with abstract shapes and prints and some
the John Galliano of India for his eclectic and
The fashion industry for instance forms
resemble the retro cameras even. It doesn’t end
conspicuous design sensibilities.
a prime example of how India has recently opened
there. Sarees are typically coupled with cholis
up to new horizons. Fashion design was deemed
(top) yet Masaba has created her own spin-off
As no stranger to prints and colours, his Fall
to be an intangible dream for many, one which
of the look with t-shirt tops or peter pan collars
13/14 collection was a convulsive outburst of
parents would sneer at with the all-too-familiar
as a replacement. Her sheer wit when it comes to
dense digital printing set against some of the
brusque statement, ‘You won’t get far’, which I’m
melding Eastern and Western silhouettes gets my
season’s boldest colours. Laden with intricate
sure we can relate to as well.
fingers tingling with excitement.
beadwork and sequins, my eyes darted back and forth between the black dresses with gold
It’s a revolution
There was once a time where the elite of India
As her popularity grew, Masaba managed to
armour-like chains and several of the illusory
made up most of the buyers of fashion in India.
snatch a spot in Satya Paul as Fashion Director.
printed togs. To say it was a visual treat is a
Now, with the rising middle class and a more
That move further proves that typically classic
severe understatement. While this collection
accessible and consumable style of fashion, the
labels are beginning to open their arms to the
may not be directly inspired by his motherland
fashion industry is opening up. The increased
vibrant young minds of India.
and instead was influenced by the Burning Man
awareness of the fashion industry has called
festival in Nevada, the juxtaposition of the pieces
for a greater need for fashion merchandisers,
Satya Paul has traditionally been revered for their
with jewelry from Indian Jeweler, Amrapali gives it
forecasters and trendsetters to shape the
luxurious ethnic emsembles in India. Founded
a deluxe vibe.
industry.
in 1985, Satya Paul’s presence burgeoned and
For years, Indian designers have been lauded
everyone turned to them for their answer to the
Maniash Arora is definately a trend setter by
for their craftsmanship in traditional garb, from
ideal traditional outfit for any event. Still, they
repeatedly bringing runways down with his overtly
beadwork to embroidery but they are often less
came to a standstill and needed a fresh breath of
ostentatious shows, challenging critics to re-
recognized for their equally talented approach to
air and for that they turned to Masaba.
define Eastern and Western inspirations in this
modern wear.
Masaba’s first show for Satya Paul at the recent
day of age where boundaries have long been
Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week had the
crossed.
The time has come whereby more light needs to
audience buzzing with trepidation as they waited
be shone on these designers who bring a different
for the big reveal. Note that Satya Paul has not
The two designers drives innovation in traditional
flair to the table, and aren’t afraid to challenge
shown for the last 2 years, so this opening show
wear and the challenge it head on with a
the perceived rigidity of India’s fashion industry
was as groundbreaking for Satya Paul as it was for
compatriot of western silhouettes interlaced with
at its seams.
Masaba.
conservative tendencies. It’s time people stop thinking that the Indian fashion scene is only
One such example with with Masaba Gupta; a
Finally, the runway was strewn with models
about the sari as new masters of fashion emerge
young designer who is threading along the lines
draped in sarees littered with liptsick prints and
and mesh the traditional with the edgy and new.
between traditional wear and modernity. Masaba
smears. As Masaba took her bow, the consensus
launched her eponymous label in 2009, at a time
was clear, Masaba has managed to inject a quirky,
where there was a growing need to reach out
youthful vibe to Satya Paul and the audience
to the younger market. Inspired by the likes of
gleamed on with pride at this rising star. The
the quirky Manish Arora to the sensible Victoria
partnership is off to a good start, for Satya
Beckham, Masaba’s designs appeal to a wide
Paul, Masaba and for India. On another similar
clientele. Though her label dominantly consists
spectrum, renowned designer Manish Arora also
of conventional silhouettes, from your sarees to
hopped off from traditional fashions from India,
your anaarkalis, the shake up comes in the form of
and has now been showing at Paris Fashion
www.gnossem.com Photographer: David Dobson Stylist / Post-production Editor: Hazyrah Mokhlas Make up / Hair: Lisa Crosswhite Models: Lisa Crosswhite & Irene Pani Creative Direction: Lisa Crosswhite & Irene Pani Venue: DOM Lounge & Marina Bay Sands Model wearing Maisha Navy solid colored blazer from www.Gnossem.com
Billed as Singapore’s premier platform for emerg-
development to the actual exhibition. In the quest
ing, local contemporary artists, the President’s
towards fostering progression in local contempo-
Young Talents exhibition opened at the Singapore
rary art practices, the exhibition will feature a var-
Art Museum (SAM) on 25 January and will be on
ied medium of works ranging from photography,
view through 15 September. The exhibition is a
film, interactive installations, public art to sculp-
culmination of works selected by an independent
tures. From the already elite circle of this year’s
curatorial committee of local art professionals who
edition, a further shortlist of artists will be an-
have chosen the candidates based on their portfo-
nounced to showcase at the upcoming Singapore
lios and a series of interviews.
Biennale 2013 in October.
This year features commissions from Boo Junfeng,
Read on as MODA catches up with three very tal-
Liao Jie Kai, Zaki Razak, Grace Tan, Ryf Zaini and
ented artists who have caught our eye with their
Robert Zhao. Each of the 6 visual artists has been
works and ask them some intimate questions
paired up with a mentor who will provide support
about what’s on their mind, and also what’s com-
throughout the creation process; from conceptual
ing up.
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E d i t o r i a l
BLACK RAVEN
P h o t o g r a p h e r C O R N E L Y U S T A N L i g h t i n g A s s i s t a n t
JERI SOH
S t y l i s t R I Z A R Y U S O F M a k e u p / H a i r s t y l i s t
ZANN TOH & SHANDY
V i d e o g r a p h y
A L F R E D ( FAS H I O N O N E T V )
M o d e l
NICOLE LEE
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A r t
FINDERS KEEPERS
W r i t e r
JIN NG
F a s h i o n
PU BU MÉ SU
W r i t e r
JIN NG
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LOVE THY LEATHERGOODS
s n io it d a r T n ia s A n o t A fresh twis Keepers events continue to excite and inspire MODA through their collaborations with local designers and artisans to redefine and preserve creative individuality and skills within an ever evolving craft. Keepers is all about bringing up and coming Asian designers and artisans together to present their creations and in doing so help people see that there are indeed skilled craftsman in Singapore, while inspiring new designers to enter the industry and at the sixth instalment of Keepers, the theme is targeted at traditional Asian culture, our heritage, and the traditions; and translated these into contemporary pieces for the world of today. Not only did the event focus on re-imagining art, design and fashion in its traditional sense, we were able to experience palatably refreshing yet nostalgic snacks like the festive Pineapple Tart flavoured ice cream sandwich for lunch (seriously it was that filling!) by The Ice
MODA got an exclusive chance to meet up with Putri Bunga Meita Soediono,
me passion and inspiration.”
Chief Designer & Founder of PU BU MÉ SU - and if you haven’t already noticed, is derived from her initials. The up and coming luxury lifestyle label currently
The label was founded in 2011, how has the experience of the past 2 or 3
dishes out genuine leather bags and accessories with a strong influence from
years been for you since you started this journey?
Indonesian culture and heritage. “Well it started as a part time thing first. I was helping my family with their Putri is part of a new wave of young Asian designers, who is passionate about
business and then I designed one bag and started selling one and then another.
her craft and proud to present her culture and her artistic interpretation of
I was very lucky that my best friend has a shop in Bali, and my bags would
Indonesia, to the world. While inspiration can come from anywhere, MODA
just sell out every month! Things just started developing from there and after
loves the play on the king of fruit with the queen of accessories the ‘Pagoda
a year of market testing, and learning about my consumers, I then had the
Duran Bag’ is thankfully more stylish than suspicious in its fashion ‘scent’.
confidence to actually make a proper launch and make a big huge deal out of
Having interned at Vivienne Westwood, under the Jewelry department, and at
this collection. So now label is live and is turning into a full time thing for me.”
Linda Farrow Sunglasses, Putri’s knowledge in accessories shines through in her designs. Here’s what the beautiful olive skinned designer had to say.
Could you reveal to us at MODA what we can expect next from the collection?
Tell us a little bit about your latest collection.” “We are going into Blueprint and we are going to properly do our launch. So We thought that the Pagoda Duren Bag was really interesting. Could you
we will have the usual seasonal releases like any other type of brands. We are
tell us a little bit more about it? How long did it take for you to design this
looking at Autumn/Winter, Spring/Summer launches. Additionally, besides
bag?
the next inspiration being Wayang shadow puppets, we are going to delve into Indonesian seafaring culture, its war culture, dancing culture, traditional
“This bag went through three different style and phases. We had to test out
clothing and see where it goes. Furthermore, I definitely want to expand into
the shape, whether it was comfortable or whether it was small enough or big
other apparels, like clothing, sunglasses (because that was what I was doing
enough to carry. Also, I would travel with it to see where the faults were.
before), and footwear. But again I have to keep to my ethos, about goods being made in Indonesia.”
Cream & Cookie Co. But with one sense satisfied, our eyes turned
don’t have to sell your soul to carry a piece of these fashion pieces
This is the shape that I am happy with; this is the third shape, after three
towards a radical ceramic piece materialized from the minds of a
around with you.
trials. I don’t like to put too much thought into my design, it has to represent what I am trying to convey and I try to keep it as simple as possible. So you
host of designers united by IEX. The ‘Three Friends of Winter Plate’
Where do you see yourself and PU BU MÉ SU in 5 years?
by Mojoko fuses uniquely a play on the East and West with a dash of
But ofcourse it had to be Carrie K., a pioneer of the Keepers platform
see subtle messages like the pagoda shape and of course you see the durian
humor; with each dish handcrafted individually by designer Steven
who delighted us with her quirky trendy IEX “Wearable History”
inspired side to it, and that’s where my direction is, subtly expressing and
“I see it expanding into a fashion house, with clothing, with footwear, and
Low, as part of his ‘Food Prints’ collection. Perfect for high class Lo
jewellery inspired by Hilltribe Silver, Hmong Rings and Javanese
conveying Indonesia into an accessory.”
with other products and hopefully selling to every region in the world. I hope
Hei during Chinese New Year, any guest would surely be delighted
Proto-Classic Jewellery - all of which drew inspiration from ancient
when Snow White reveals herself together with all her Japanese
artefacts from the Asian Civilizations Museum. For those inspired
Katagami awesomeness. Another designer who caught our attention
to go for a tribal-chic look, the five piece collection consisting of
was PU BU MÉ SU - who quickly filled our wish list with accessories
to be entering tradeshows in Europe, in the US, all over Asia and Australia of Has it always been your dream to start a luxury bag label?
course, so that’s where I see myself in 5 years.”
earrings, a collar choker, rings and a three-finger ring (affectionately
“It has and I think that’s why, I went into fashion but I didn’t know what I
We wish you all the best in your endeavors. Do you have any last words for
would fulfil any frequent traveller’s needs with passport covers,
called the knuckle-duster) will transform you into a neo-Javanese
wanted to do exactly. I initially wanted to do a degree in fine arts; I went from
aspiring young designers in Asia?
cardholders, multi-cases suitably sized for the iPad and that iconic
warrior princess with its sleek shiny finishes.
being an opera singer and then a fine artist and then into a bag designer. I
Pagoda Duren Bag (pronounced as “durian” due to obvious reasons).
told my family, “I’m going to do this in Uni and I will have a business out of
“Oh god that’s a though question! I know this is so typical, but you really do
Although it has a sharp spiked façade, this semi-statement piece
But don’t fret if you’ve missed this showcase, mark it down on your
it”. Knowing how fashion is a huge business and knowing that it is not just
have to have the passion in fashion and you really have to understand the
with its spacious interior, thankfully smells like new bag leather – as
calendar, the next event will happen on the first of June, and from
creating a pretty looking thing, it’s creating a pretty looking thing that has a
business. Because it is work when you wake up everyday, so you have to be
opposed to the king of fruits after which it is named. All items are
what we hear, it will be targeted at gentlemen. So guys, girls with
lot of components in it. Such as, is it wearable? Is it sellable? And does it have
able to have fun with it, not be too serious about it. So don’t think too much
made using quality materials sourced from Indonesia and available
boyfriends and guys with boyfriends, or those who just like something
sustainability within someone’s wardrobe? It is all these things that you think
and just get into it!”
in a wide range of colours. While the bags are directed towards
a bit more masculine - keep your eyes peeled and for the seventh
about when you design and it is that challenge with every season, that gives
women, the unisex accessories were fit for guys as well. For those
Keepers event coming soon.
who appreciate good craftsmanship, you’ll be glad to know that you
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F a s h i o n A U D I F A S H I O N F E S T I V A L ’ 1 3
W r i t e r
G A B R I E L TA N
ASHLEY ISHAM
AUDI FASHION FESTIVAL 2013
TSUMORI CHISATO
A week of runway shows, partying, dressing up and discovering the best designers from around the world certainly is not one for the faint hearted. Fashionistas, industry players and enthusiasts put their best foot forward during this power packed week at the Audi Fashion Festival Singapore that lasted from 15 - 19 May 2013. Known to be Singapore’s annual premier fashion event, the Audi Fashion Festival Singapore (AFF) marked its 5th anniversary this year (impressive for a little red dot that burst into the fashion scene less than a decade ago). What better way to celebrate this milestone than to have the festival held at Marina Promenade, a new waterfront location against the stunning backdrop of Singapore’s skyline, accompanied by a larger tent that attracted more than 20,000 visitors, a significant increase from the 13,200 people that attended the festival in 2012.
JUN OKAMOTO
ZARDOZE
However, there was a greater sense of patriotism and some of the highlights from AFF were subtle and unassuming. The showings done by local labels like Ong Shunmugam, Raoul and Ashley Isham were admirable. We beamed with pride (and probably shed a tear, just maybe) at the achievements of our Singaporean designers and how they have placed Singapore on the world map, contributing significantly to our small and now thriving fashion industry. While it is great that we get to experience the work of world renowned designers, would it be to presumptuous to hope that maybe (in a future not so distant) Singapore’s fashion week would be a tribute solely to the nation’s designers like fashion powerhouses Milan, New York, Paris, London and Tokyo?
Everything about the festival was served on a silver platter (no make that a diamond encrusted one). From the world’s most revered designers and international top models to red carpet fashion galas and glamorous after-parties with headlining international acts, the festival together with the support of the Singapore Tourism Board set everything in its pristine place to make this year better than the last. A hit it was. With its eclectic mix of emerging and established top-class international names in the world of fashion including Carolina Herrera, Hussein Chalayan, Peter Pilotto, Tsumori Chisato, Collette Dinnigan, RAOUL, Ashley Isham, Zardoze, Jun Okamoto, Ong Shunmugam and the designers of PARCO next Next, AFF really proved its international caliber. Aptly themed “Crafting the Future”, this year seemed to really embrace a wide spectrum of skill sets from the various designers each with their own unique sense of aesthetic that resulted in a myriad of colours, textures, form and technique (a visual feast for the senses).
FINALE AT PARCO next NEXT FASHION SHOW
Previous years saw AFF showcasing collections from world-known brands such as Christian Lacroix, Vivienne Westwood, Zac Posen, Mugler with Nicola Formichetti, Roland Mouret, Gareth Pugh, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Missoni, Ungaro, Erdem, DSquared, Roberto Cavalli as well as local fashion heroes like Raoul and alldressedup. There is no doubt that it was the established brands like Carolina Herrera and Hussein Chalayan and the other big labels from past festivals that were the biggest draws for the festival because of their long brand history and revolutionary designs that put them on the world map. The garments that walked the runway were impeccably made, delectable and absolutely desirable. The splash of hues and vibes of quirkiness from Tsumori Chisato were endearing while the graphic elements of Peter Pilotto’s creations were loud, awe-inspiring and absolutely fun. HUSSEIN CHALAYAN CLOSING AUDI FASHION FESTIVAL
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F a s h i o n B L U E P R I N T 2 0 1 3
W r i t e r
KHAIRUL
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This local born designer accoutred with masterful skills and certainly, her indubitable sense of style, she diverted the attention from her selfless success story as an emerging designer to her 2 sister-brands – Elohim and Light. After a flourishing re-run from its Spring 2013 collection, the labels came in for the muchanticipated trade shows at this year’s Blueprint
Architecture of Asia’S Future Fashions
event with more to offer. Sabrinagoh debuted its Fall Winter 2013 collection, which saw its creative visionary accredited to Birches. She took inspiration from its deceiving exterior which then was translated onto fabric as digital print.
With over 180 (yes that’s right) emerging and established fashion brands from Asia and around the world, this years Blueprint was truly a mega event for the fashion savvy and those with a keen eye for whats hot. Spanning 4 days and the entire floor of the F1 Pit Building in Singapore, this gateway to Asia’s fashion trade was bigger and better than ever before. Show casing not only local brands from Singapore and around the region, this years serving was impressively international - featuring emerging designer brands from Australia, Brazil, China, France, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Philippines, Thailand, Trinidad and Tobago, the UK and Vietnam. MODA didn’t need to fly all around the world (but boy wouldn’t that have been fun??) to get down with the designers thanks to Blueprint, and will be showing much love to those which caught our eye - but here is a taste of who we fell head over heels for just for you!
The regnant source of stimulus may be specific and narrow-heading per se, but the restriction was not seen past the adventurous and bold pieces presented in the collection. Familiarity is seen throughout the pieces while maintaining the fashion labels undying intentions to bring back androgyny. The brands are differentiated by the clear line between pieces that are ready to wear, pertaining to the brand Light; and those that are more intrepid in its creative take, in reference to Elohim, the other official label under Sabrinagoh. Just a short trip to its gallery store at Orchard Central here in Singapore and you’ll get to see for yourself the electrifying looks that define fashion in the 21st century.
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its exclusive hand-painted batik. September 2012, it opened its doors... of the store, situated at Publika Shopping Mall in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, in a grand affair. This mother and daughter duo has kindly enough taken time to showcase their latest collection at this year’s May, this year, marks its first year of business.
Blueprint event, in hopes of expanding their market
Rubaq shortened for ‘Rumah Batik’ is a family duo-
to batik-lovers here.
owned Malaysian brand, headed by the mother of course, Associate Professor Madya Zaharah Ahmad
In its latest Exotic East 2013 2014 collection,
Osman. Just a baby, this label has the heart of a
it features a few of the most extravagant pieces
ferocious beast, tackling the high-end market with
that yell attention with its striking palette and seemingly harmonious blend. A jarring standout it is; with its kaleidoscopic prints and generous splash of colours, it is hard to resist this feast for the eyes. With 2 collections already in the bag, Tribute to Tribal and Fusion of Contemporary Middle Eastern; this label is headed for the up and coming Kuala Lumpur Fashion Week and Muslimah Fashion Week and attending similar tradeshows on and off. This designer and her daughter, also co-founder of this
Spring/Summer 2013 would be its fourth and
label, Nur Shazmin Ahmad Kushairi, continues to
best to come out from this conqueror of a fashion
explore the Malay traditional craft of batik and to
label – Ong Shunmugam. Attendees at this year’s
bring onto the plate more exciting and refreshing
Blueprint event got the privilege of seeing the
ideas as a way to reinvent this dated art form.
full preview of her latest collection which took up forms of modernised cheongsam. Priscilla
Shunmugam,
designer,
was
named
Designer of the year at the Elle Awards and she was just recently nominated for the President’s Design Award 2013 in the Designer of the Year category. This only proves she is an artisan and a force not to be reckoned with. If not, I’m not too sure what will. Let’s wind the clock back to when Ong Shunmugam Just from its ‘corking’ name, this label suggests
debut its first collection titled Orientalism, in
something that breaks the norms of fashion and in
2011. She has never lost the Asian influence in her
this case, the craftsmanship that goes into making
designs.
any handbag faces a revelation. We bid farewell to animal skin, leather. – Now in this day and age,
She truly gravitates around the tranquilising beauty
cork seemed like a better alternative.
of home-grown fashion and with tweaks here and
It may sound odd but wait till you see it. The grains that are naturally found imprinted on cork, creates a seamless aesthetic value to the material. Founder of this label, Tsim Sha Tsui, alongside her fellow counterparts, sees this sudden intervention as a
timeliness approach at using cork for fashionable means. Cork has been around for thousands of years – It is about time we explore its other hidden
there, she reinvents something of ancestral value into something trendy and on-trend. Who would have foreseen, just a year down the road, this
applicability specifically, in fashion.
local, ‘little label from nowhere’ once referred to by
The sudden knock on the door came unexpectedly
the runway at Paris Fashion Week.
when Madam Tsim herself, came across a lady wandering just outside of her store, carrying with her a bag that looked like it was made of cork. When prompted about the bag, the lady only complained of the inconvenience when carrying the bag out in the rain. This triggered in-depth research. The handbags and wallets featured in this collection from this unsuspecting Hong Kong label, uses only processed-cork with differing adapted designs, just to name a few; Los Angeles, Miami and Hawaii – design. Not only is it made of all-natural material, it is dust- repellent, water-resistant and certainly stylish for the wearers of this era.
Priscilla herself, brand will see itself walking down
Her
other
collections
include
Guardianship
2011 and Prints Charming 2012. Atelier Ong Shunmugam, a permanent store dedicated to get your hands on her wonderful creations, officially swung open its doors in November 2011 at Raffles Place, Singapore. That’s barely the wrap for Blueprint that we sunk our teeth into! But with such an wide offering in this formidable fashion degustation, stay tuned to MODA while we bring out more gems that we uncovered!
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A r t s
A R T I S T F E AT U R E : D E N I S E TA N
W r i t e r
The Art Bug You know you’ve got talent when the canvas shoes you painted on, was used as a warning poster to caution other students that coloured shoes were banned in your school. Science student Denise Jillian Tan began her foray into the arts by doodling during boring classes in Junior College, to prevent herself from falling asleep. She eventually began illustrating canvas shoes using fabric paint and needles. Before long, the bubbly 24 year old was getting orders from supportive friends and family members. After her GCE ‘A’ levels, the bold Pisces took the road less travelled, by returning to LASALLE to pursue an education in fine arts instead of entering university. Denise has never looked back ever since, chasing her dreams (and achieving some) with a passion as fiery as her bright red hair. She shared her experience of winning the category of Top 20 Singapore Artists in 2012 and describes it as a completely “random” and unexpected situation. Another “WTF” moment for her occurred when her painting ‘Bob 2’, which began auction at S$2K went up to S$9K in less than 40 seconds, what’s more shocking was that a then 16-year-old boy bought it for his own birthday present. Painting wasn’t something the emerging artist had wanted to do. Denise initially wanted to focus on drawing in fine arts, but found her love for painting during her foundation year in LASALLE College of the Arts. She prefers working with oil paints, as it takes longer to dry and hence gives her greater control over her art pieces. This is especially so in her iconic portraitures, where oil allows her to create smoother skins and achieve a glowing effect. When asked about her recurring theme of faces, the artist explains that there are many reasons, one of which being that she would very quickly “lose interest” if she were to paint other objects. “I once tried painting a burger” she joked, “but my attention span just ‘poof ’ and disappeared, I wanted the burger to get lost!” Denise also loves portraitures because of the human eyes, for they are the “windows to the soul”. Even when she tried eliminating eyes from her work, she found that the stance of a person gazing away instead draws viewers to look into the soul and eyes of the character even more. The painter believes she will continue painting portraitures, though she is worried that eventually her audiences be bored by the same style. Hence, she constantly studies her own shifts in themes according her stage in life, incorporating these aspects into her works. Photorealistic paintings are a recent fixation of the painter whose style is matured beyond her age, one would never have guessed that she is only 24 years young when they first glimpse her art pieces. Denise creates these realistic paintings by using a gathering a collage of her own photos and online images, then she juxtaposes these pictures together, remixes them a little and out comes her own original piece of work. The whole research process to begin a new series of artwork could take up to three months to conceptualize, but once
a theme is decided, things get faster. The actual paintings would require another month or more to complete. That explains the price tags on original artworks. Denise loves what some others would consider a tedious process of researching and creating a painting, as she finds it rewarding. Furthermore, Denise likes painting little girls as a form of escape, because she can relate to being a child and wishes to remain one forever, never having to deal with finance, legal and research matters, the side of an emerging artist people rarely see. In fact, her current series involving fairy tales, titled “Time for Bed”, showcases female characters, such as little Red Riding Hood in a modern backdrop, stroking a wolf lying on her lap. Other paintings, still uncompleted show Cinderella binding her own feet, while Snow White poisons her own apple. These images portray fairy tales in an unconventional manner, where these seemingly innocent girls imagine their own thwarted happy endings, preparing the events of their story before it is being narrated during bedtime. The haunting new series of art works, which blurs the lines of protagonist and antagonist, also illustrates how children’s books tend to go through multiple rounds of censorship, the stories manipulated until they were finally socially accepted. ‘blah: A National Conversation’ is an exhibition that Denise recently contributed two paintings to, at the Brother Joseph McNally Gallery at LASALLE College of the Arts. The exhibition examines the phenomenon of less censored public dialogue at ‘Kopitiam’ coffee shops, where Singaporeans are more at ease to debate about current affairs and politics under a shroud of casualness. In the near future, Denise hopes to be exhibiting overseas and to have a short one-year stint overseas, preferably in Philippines or Berlin or New York. She would like to obtain new influences of art, learn about the cultures of other people and lead an independent life away from her parents for a while. The passionate local painter also aims to be featured in huge art biennales and art fairs overseas like Art Basel. Success does not come easy, advices the budding artist, and one has to persevere, do good, and believe in their work. “Don’t overprice your work in the beginning, as it could kill you as an emerging artist”, she stresses. Denise also emphasises the importance of partaking in a lot of visual research before beginning. People could attend art fairs to learn about the latest trends in arts, however they should not fall prey to trends and instead retain their individuality. Her optimistic bubbly demeanour, coupled with a fierce fighting spirit is something we can all aspire to, and also for any aspiring artist, know that it is never too late to take the leap, so pick up that paint brush and start blending. You can find her at the following institutions: www.artbug.com.sg, www.sculpturesq.com.sg For more information about the artist or visit her personal website at: www.denisejillian.com
JIN NG
00
A r t
D E N I S E TA N
W r i t e r
JIN NG
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F a s h i o n
A U D I S TA R C R E AT I O N S 2 0 1 3
W r i t e r
LIJUAN YEO
HAUS HuNTING
A scorching Monday afternoon did nothing to dismiss the ebullience at the Singapore Flyer. MODA arrived after the pre-judging session for interviews, then after, had the honor to witness the crowning of Star Creation’s new first, homeboy Haziq Putra bin Mohamed Razif. Into its fourth year, Audi Star Creation aims to uncover local and regional talent, presenting them with an opportunity to kickstart their career in the fashion industry or give them a foot in the door. The desire to have a hand at grooming today’s potential into tomorrow’s big guns is evident throughout the judging process. Organized by the TaFf (Textile and Fashion Federation), it is a keynote event of the Asia Fashion Exchange (AFX); an initiative that seeks to place Singapore and Asian designers on the world map. A total of 12 finalists, hailing from 7 countries were part of the competition make up this year. Amongst them, is Malaysian Andrew Low; receiving his lucky break, amidst higher odds, this year. “I feel extremely excited and happy. There was actually a dead delay before the announcement of the results so I expected the worst, but everything turned out well. That was cool.” says Low. The 22 year old who entered fashion under the influence of his parents, hopes his clothes at-
tract stylish people who appreciate easy sophistication. “I often wondered why people would spend so much money on fashion or couture. Then I realized, more than clothes, fashion represents a status. After which, I thought it would be nice to create something that people will want to wear; that will make them feel good. I feel happy doing so.” The bustle backstage was a sight to behold. Fellow Malaysian Jean Teoh, was all skittish when we met her. Unsurprising, since she is a first time competitor in any major competition. “I invested a lot of hard work into this collection.” The Raffles Design graduate’s collection is titled Resonance. “It revolves around social vibration and human interaction, but has elements of nature - volcanoes, tsunamis and earthquakes - fused into. It’s a coming together of two entities that make the world one.” This self proclaimed worshipper of Hussein Chalayan is devoted to fabric manipulation and has worked up an assortment of details, playing with organza, jersey and embroidery. In its short history, Audi Star Creation has crowned up and coming names; the likes of Audrey Lim, Soravit Kaekamon and Roderic Wong. Looking for her big break at this competition, is Sung Ji Eun. The Parsons’ alumni who made the decisive jump from hotel management to fashion back in 2003, has never looked back since. “Its not just about Parsons, but life in New York on a whole. Being in one of the biggest fashion city made the whole experience worth it. It grew my mind and helped
me to see fashion in the big picture. It was very impressive.” says Sung, when asked to share a lesson she learnt while studying at her alma mater. Decked in black for the occasion, the designer who took cues from the Samul Nori – a type of Korean folk music – for a competition entry, has high respect for Rei Kwakubo, whom she calls a “fashion anatomist.” The theme “InspirAsian”, meant a runway more coherent and intelligible than most. Watching each designer send their pieces down the runway, I held my breath as I imagined what it must feel like, being in their shoes. There cannot be, shouldn’t be, any questions about the toil that was invested. Kudos, young uns. Kudos to you all.
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F a s h i o n D E P R E S S I O N
W r i t e r
AKITO & RUTH LIM
No prescriptions necessary
Despite its name, Depression is a local Singaporean
Where their Plastic Surgery collecion saw classic
also accentuated with dazzling Swarovski elements
designer brand whose collections dance daringly
silhouettes undergo the knife to create new forms
detailing.
between the creative and conservative; a subtle
and shapes, their latest collection Dysmorphia
sensation you won’t want a prescription for.
But not every occasion may need you to serve it up - MODA quizzes the duo on what their plans are for
Flying
the
home
grown
designer
flag
high,
those days where you want to stand out without
Depression has been rapidly rising in the region
standing too out? Depression cooly replies with
since their inception in 2006. After leaving their
the launch of their new line Antidepressant - which
creatively mundane white collared office jobs, the
carries their ever popular t-shirts and slick line of
duo have amassed a strong following amongst those
wardrobe essentials.
not only in their target “black collar professionals”, but anyone who has a keen eye for being fashionable
My, my, my! A new collection ... a new line ... is there
before it becomes fashionable.
anything else in store for the stylish in Singapore? To our delight, Depression is also planning to open
Hard to believe that when MODA first met up with
a new multi-brand store in the yet to be opened
the brand, they were only in a small outlet in Far
Orchard Gateway this November.
East Plaza - many years have since passed and their success has grown immensely; catching
Who will the store carry? Will it be the new line
the attention of international celebrities such as
Dysmorphia? What will the store feature? Will the
Taboo from the Black Eye Peas and American Idols
distinctive shoe collections which have been selling
Randy Jackson just to name a few. MODA gets
like hot cakes all over the world be there? Who else
the opportunity once again to have a coffee and
will the store feature? (Will it fit!?!??!?)
get the inside scoop of whats next for those with Depression on their minds.
MODA awaits with anticipation for the new eleganza to be served, but if you can’t wait for the new store
MODA loves how the collections all have quirky
to open - be sure to get your dose of Depression at
tongue in cheek titles and carry a signature play on
continues the theme of body image perfection - with
their current store open at Level 3 of Cineleisure
words, form and symmetry which is paired with a
a blends of blacks, whites and stripes transform
Orchard today.
number of functional pieces with a twist - to give
size and perspective. The collection uses a contrast
each of their collections width but also depth.
of materials which not only flatter, but this time
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82
A r t & D e s i g n L O M O G R A P H Y
W r i t e r
AKITO
83
AMAZINGLY ANALOG Lomography
is
an
movement
can experiment with different lenses, different
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working on more exciting lenses and accessories
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for Belair! Stay tuned!!
who
analog were
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creative
and
experimental film photography. Since its inception with only one single Lomo LC+A camera, Lomography has since developed a cult folloing capturing
MODA : Now I’m not a professional, but all of the MODA :
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No!!!! All Lomography cameras are built super
and Spinner 360. I carry my LC-A+ everyday because
out more about the brand, the cameras and what
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of it’s strong its lens gives you radiantly coloured
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MODA : But in the face of the digital revolution -
MODA loves the Lomography range as well! Our
a part of memory making! The outcome is totally
are there any ways where we can move the analogue
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memories from the Lomography series onto a
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MODA :
What
is
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Lomography interesting because it’s a totally new
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MODA : But just how long has Lomography been in
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Lomography has been around in Singapore for more
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MODA :
Wow! That’s definitely one neat little
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the miniature Fisheye Baby 110 gold edition - the
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Listings BLACKMARKET NO.2 ORCHARD CENTRAL #02-10
CODA CO 6 Scotts Road, #02-03, Scotts Square
DEPRESSION Cineleisure Orchard #03-05A
elohim by sabrina goh Orchard Central #02-11/12
LEFTFOOT ENTREPOT 2 Handy Road The Cathay #01-19/20
GNOSSEM.COM LOMOGRAPHY SINGAPORE 295 South Bridge Road, #01-01
MYTHOLOGY 88 Club Street v
NUMBER 50 Mandarin Gallery #03-08
ONG SHUNMUGAN 16 Raffles Quay B1-36 Hong Leong Building
THREADBARE & SQUIRREL 660 North Bridge Road
PARCO NEXT NEXT 9 Raffles Boulevard, PARCO Marina Bay Level 2, Millenia Walk
SOLE 2 SOLE 9 Raffles Boulevard #01-47A/48, Millenia Walk
THE EDITOR’S MARKET Orchard Central #04-08/09
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