AUGUST 2014, ISSUE 240 £6.95 — WWW.WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK WOMENSWEAR BUYER
— STOPPING TRAFFIC Traffic People’s Louise Reynolds on the brand’s journey so far —
— THE MAIN EVENT WWB’s comprehensive guide to Moda —
— STYLE BY NATURE Spring summed up in this season’s neutrals —
— INDUSTRY WANDERER Danish brand Masai’s plans for expansion —
Tel: 0207 636 7130 Showing at Pure stand K50 and Moda stand I31
Tel: 0207 636 7130 Showing at Pure stand K50 and Moda stand I31
09 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
CONTENTS —
REGULARS
FEATURES
FASHION
11 EDITOR’S COMMENT — 12 NEWS — 20 BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear — 22 TALKING POINT — 104 ADVICE Experts answer your questions — 106 RETAIL FORUM The latest news from the industry — 110 UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL With personality and designer Meg Mathews —
26 Q&A With Louise Reynolds, co-founder and designer at Traffic People — 37 BEAUTIFULLY DIFFERENT Danish brand Masai reveals all — 42 NEUTRAL SELECTION The key s/s 15 looks for womenswear —
30 STYLE FILE — 34 FASHION RADAR — 63 SPRING/SUMMER 2015 AT MODA A comprehensive preview of the exhibition — 87 AN EVENTFUL SUMMER Evening and occasionwear trends for s/s 15 — 98 SCOOP INTERNATIONAL The highlights from last month’s event — 102 BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN The key trends from the streetwear show
— FRONT COVER: URBANCODE LONDON, JAMES LAKELAND —
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COMMENT —
Acting editor Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — Contributors Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com — Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — Sales Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com — Subscriptions Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — Production director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com — Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com — Reprographics/printing ImageData Group 01482 652323
— WWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 — Copyright © 2014 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. —
RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB.
EVOLUTION BREEDS BEINGS THAT ARE BETTER ADAPTED TO SURVIVE IN THE ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH NATURAL SELECTION TAKES PLACE – SO WHY HAS RETAIL EVOLUTION COME FULL CIRCLE? —
When I heard that a pilot scheme was potentially being rolled out across the country whereby click and collect orders can be collected at stations, tried on and returned on the spot if necessary, I couldn’t help thinking that fashion retail has come full circle. The boom in internet shopping at the start of the century introduced consumers to a whole new world of browsing from the comfort of their homes before having their goods delivered to their very own doorsteps. As the potential inconvenience of missed deliveries became more prevalent, the logistics industry adapted accordingly, offering consumers the option of clicking and collecting – first from stores and, when that wasn’t accessible enough, later from convenience stores through the Collect+ scheme. For the fashion sector in particular, however, the age-old problem of clothes carefully selected online in the right style and size simply “not looking right” prevailed, hence the latest innovation in fashion retail – the collection pod where orders can be tried on at the point of collection, and returned immediately if they are not suitable. The first Doddle point was opened at Milton Keynes last month, targeting the busy consumer who wants the utmost in fashion retail convenience. However, if these collection points are
located at stations – and therefore generally centrally located and within the proximity of the region’s leading stores and outlets – are we not just moving one step closer to bricks and mortar shopping? The “old-fashioned” model of buying whereby clothes can be tried on in multiple styles and sizes before any commitment is made to buy, and outfits can be simply returned to the hanger instead of returned for a refund? It’s unlikely that we will see a sea-turn in consumers returning to high-street shopping, but perhaps more likely that both online and bricks-and-mortar retail will start to operate more in harmony as disillusioned consumers start to re-evaluate the advantages of traditional shopping. Of course, for the retailer, either way is simply a medium of selling and, as always, the search for the perfect in-store offer is of paramount concern as the show season once again gets under way.
Christina Williams, acting editor
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NEWS —
RETAILERS HOLD OFF DISCOUNTING Independents are putting less stock into Sale following a successful spring season. —
Independent retailers have delayed their summer Sales and discounted fewer lines following a successful selling period over the spring months. A straw poll of womenswear retailers carried out by WWB revealed that many store owners held off going into Sale until late July, despite competition from multiples starting their own summer Sales. “I started our Sale on 23 July, which was about 10 days later than usual,” says Lynette Carlton, owner of Diva Classic Ladieswear in Ackworth, West Yorkshire. “We had the busiest April and May since we began trading 16 years ago and some items – such as our Robell crop trousers – haven’t gone into the Sale at all. In fact, we are still placing orders for more.” Richard Broadbent – owner of Cheshire womenswear retailer Broadbent’s – also saw such strong sell-through on certain lines that they did not go into sale this season. “Robell trousers in crop, Capri and full length were this season’s bestsellers by far, along with most styles of Lunar shoes, so we did not put them into sale,” he says. “We always try not to break the July watershed, and went into Sale on 1 July, but we did put a little less into Sale because we had good spring weather, and confidence is returning.” Even for those retailers who started their Sale in June, fewer discounted lines made for better margins over the course of
the season. “We usually start our Sale at the end of June, so 21 June seemed like an appropriate weekend this year,” says Rosalind Jones, owner of womenswear independent Bowns in Cambridge. “I put less current stock into Sale this season purely because we had a better summer, and therefore had less stock to offer, and items that had sold well went to Sale with a much smaller discount. “Despite the pressure from London department stores starting Sale early, I intentionally ignore the high street because that isn’t what our customer is looking for,” she continues. “I noticed that the customers holding out for our Sale were waiting for that unnecessary luxury item, or that extra coat or bag.” The decreased focus on the end of season Sale has been attributed to better buying and planning, as well as a strong season for sales in general. “For the first time in a long time, I am completely happy with our brand mix,” says Richard Bell, owner of Cumbria-based Bell Clothing. “I used to discount everything but, this season, I still had full-price stock at the end of July. “White Stuff has been a great seller for us, along with Great Plains, Superdry and Crew,” he continues. “The biggest way in which my strategy has changed over the past
“We had the busiest April and May since we began trading 16 years ago and some items – such as our Robell crop trousers – haven’t gone into the Sale at all. In fact, we are still placing orders for more”
few seasons is that I used to put everything into Sale – but now I start off softly with just a few lines, and some items don’t go into Sale at all.”
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NEWS —
HUNTER EXPANDS INTO JAPAN Iconic British boot label Hunter has founded a joint venture with Itochu Corporation to distribute its collection of men’s and women’s footwear and apparel throughout Japan. Effective from s/s 15, the collaboration comes as part of a wider move to position Hunter as a global lifestyle brand. “We are excited about the partnership forged with Itochu Corporation,” says James Seuss, Hunter’s CEO. “We see a huge opportunity in Japan and Itochu is a key player in furthering Hunter’s development as a global lifestyle brand. As another company with a long heritage and strong core values, this is a natural partnership for us.”
INDUSTRY TEAMS CHALLENGE POVERTY Teams from across the fashion industry are once again signing up for the ninth annual Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge, supported by MWB and WWB. Taking place on 20 September in the scenic Exmoor National Park in Somerset, the event will see teams take on the challenge of completing a marathon distance on foot, bike and canoe. Funds raised will support leading poverty fighting charity Care International. The latest team to sign up represents Superdry, back to defend their company’s title after winning last year. The event has previously attracted teams from M&S, Hugo Boss, Gucci, Michael Kors and ITE Moda, publisher of MWB and WWB (pictured). To date, the event has raised over £410,000. For further information, visit www.carechallenge.org.uk/primasolutions. —
ELAINE PHILLIPS JOINS JAMES LAKELAND
CLOTHING SECTOR BOOSTS JUNE SALES Overall retail sales dropped by 0.8 per cent during June in comparison with the same period last year. The decrease in sales, however, was mainly attributed to the food sector, with non-food sales showing growth of 3.7 per cent over the past three months. “It’s a bit of a mixed picture,” says Helen Dickinson, the BRC’s director general. “Non-food sales are up, but at a slower rate. Could it be that consumers are feeling more confident and have bought into full-price fashion, which in turn has encouraged some retailers to delay their sales? Retailers may find that their margins are less affected than figures would suggest.” Industry analyst David McCorquodale agrees that clothing was one of the strongest-performing sectors of summer. “June saw the brakes applied as sales of furniture flat-lined and England’s early exit from the World Cup exacerbated grocers’ problems, but clothing retailers fared better,” says the head of retail at KPMG. “Glorious sunshine drove demand for summer clothes, and this meant that fashion retailers did not resort to the deep discounting that we have previously seen.” —
Elaine Phillips, well known to retailers for her work with eveningwear labels Marcelane and Ronald Joyce, has joined James Lakeland as part of the brand’s plans to strengthen its wholesale business. Based at the company’s new showrooms on London’s Euston Road, Phillips will work with both existing and new customers as James Lakeland moves to create a clearer definition between its wholesale and retail collections. With over 600 pieces across its full collection, the label will now offer wholesale customers a range with minimal overlap with its retail and online collection, which continues to be developed alongside the wholesale business. “We’re delighted to have such a well-known and well-liked person as Elaine joining us at a time when retailers are looking for closer relationships and better service from brands,” says James Lakeland. “Service to clients is something we’ve always prided ourselves on as a company, and Elaine is the ideal person to take that service to the next level.”
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NEWS —
DENHAM OPENS FIRST STORE
DIESEL COMBATS COUNTERFEITS Diesel has filed legal action in a US federal court against 83 websites selling counterfeit products appearing to carry the Diesel label. The 83 sites created the false impression they were authorised to sell genuine Diesel goods by using the company’s trademark in their domain name, going on to sell thousands of replicas of the brand’s products. As part of a global programme to combat the business of counterfeit products, Diesel launched an online brand protection programme earlier this year that has already resulted in more than 120 infringing sites being taken down, over 1,000 sellers blocked, and around 400,000 items removed.
Dutch denim label Denham has opened its first standalone shop in collaboration with Bread & Butter founder Karl-Heinz Müller. The 125 sq m store – which is located in the heart of Berlin Mitte – is a joint venture between Denham and The Blue Yard, the retail concept area curated by Müller. As a special feature within the store, Denham is offering a quick wash service, inspired by hand-washing services pioneered in Denham’s Amsterdam and Tokyo locations. The Quick Wash is an extension of the brand’s established, signature, on-site sewing repair concept and adds a new dimension to the label’s commitment to customised styling. The opening of the label’s first permanent store follows a series of successful pop-up presentations in Berlin. —
NEW BRANDS SIGN UP TO MODA Moda Woman has welcomed a raft of new signings in the lead up to its spring edition, which takes place at Birmingham’s NEC on 10-12 August. Womenswear label Milano (pictured) will make its debut at the event, alongside fellow debutante Maxwell Style, a Manchester-based British brand that will unveil its latest spring offer from its Unique 21 label. Polish label Nuance has also confirmed its attendance at the event. Established since 1993, the brand will exhibit at Moda for the first time with its range of casual womenswear, eveningwear and cocktail dresses. The new exhibitors join a list of established labels returning to the show, including James Lakeland, Alice & Barnabe, Brax, Lily & Me and Steilmann. —
ONLINE SALES DOWN FOR M&S Sales at M&S.com dropped by 8.1 per cent this quarter, following a move to a new website for the high-street retailer. The fall in sales occurred in the 13 weeks leading up to 28 June, and has been partly attributed to the launch of the new website, which went live in February. Designed to transform the 130-year-old business, the new website saw fashion-focused features such as trend edits introduced into a more contemporary layout. However, teething troubles meant that all of the retailer’s six million registered customers were forced to re-register, and some visitors reported difficulties in navigating the new system. Overall, M&S still managed to see a slight increase in its overall womenswear sales throughout the quarter, and a marginal drop in its overall clothing sales of 0.6 per cent during the 13-week period.
Our Vision Target the contemporary woman aged 30 - 50 with a clear fashion statement, a good fit and critically excellent value for money (average price ÂŁ26).
Our Collections Tramontana provides the perfect fashion repertoire whether it is for the office, casual, dinner or a party. Our collections are feminine, sexy, with trend setting 'must haves'. We have fascinating colour combinations, creative prints, innovative detail and we always use high quality materials. Oh yes and a 3.0 margin!
Selling Dates: S/S 15 Monday 21st July - Fri 5th Sept 2014
Contact: Cicely Brown and Chris Foster-Orr Tel: 020 7636 7111 FOS Fashion Marketing Ltd, 4th Floor, Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF
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WORKERS GAIN FLEXIBLE RIGHTS New legislation introduced last month gives workers the right to request flexible working patterns from their employer. The right – previously limited to parents and carers – has been rolled out to the UK’s entire workforce in a bid to bring working practices “up-to-date” with modern family lifestyle. Although obliged to consider requests in a “reasonable manner” employers are under no obligation to meet demands, but are urged to see the potential benefits of flexible working patterns. “Modern businesses know that flexible working boosts productivity and staff morale, and helps them keep their top talent so that they can grow,” says deputy Prime Minister Nick Clegg. “It’s about time we brought working practices bang up-to-date with the needs, and choices, of our modern families.” Some industry groups, however, have reacted with disdain to the news. “We know that more than three quarters of our members offer flexible working but there will be a number of small businesses who just cannot do that, whether it's through cost or just from balancing their teams,” says Lisle Brown from the Federation of Small Businesses. —
NEWS —
RETAILERS FALL SHORT ON SOCIAL MEDIA SERVICE An undercover survey has found that UK retailers are falling short when it comes to responding to queries submitted by social media. The survey – which assessed retailers in the fashion, food and entertainment sectors– found that only 33 per cent of retailers successfully responded to queries submitted via Twitter, while 75 per cent successfully responded to email queries. The research – carried out by analyst Eptica – also found that the average response time for emails is now 35 hours and 43 minutes; over one day less than the average email response time of 66 hours and 52 minutes in a similar study carried out in 2012.
EXTENDED OFFER FOR LATTE British womenswear brand Latte has diversified its offer for s/s 15 with the introduction of a new accessories line. Following on from the recent addition of vintage-inspired jewellery, the label has introduced a more comprehensive accessories range, comprising wraps and scarves as well as jewellery. Designed to complement Latte’s core womenswear collection, the latest accessories offer is designed and made in Italy and wholesales from £15 to £25. “We’ve always loved how scarves and wraps are an essential part of Italian styling and so this season we have introduced vintage-inspired accessories,” says Adele Black, the brand’s co-founder. “We wanted to keep the excitement going with our collection and it just seemed for us a very natural progression.” Latte will exhibit its spring range at Moda on 10-12 August at Birmingham’s NEC. —
BREAD & BUTTER ON THE MOVE Karl-Heinz Müller, founder of the trade show Bread & Butter, has confirmed the return of the exhibition to Barcelona for the winter edition in January 2015. Bread & Butter will, however, return to the former Airport Berlin-Tempelhof for the summer show, for which dates will be announced in due course. Taking place, as it has previously, in the grounds of the Fira de Barcelona, Bread & Butter’s a/w 15 show on 8-10 January 2015 will kick off the international season for the fashion industry. Next year will also mark the exhibition’s first venture into Asia, with its debut in Seoul, South Korea, taking place on 3-5 September 2015. MOST MPS BACK RATE REFORM New research published in July indicates that eight in ten MPs agree that the current business rates system is “not fit for purpose” – despite the rejection by the government of a call for reform by pressure groups in June. Following the submission of a proposal for reform by campaigners – which called for a sales-based tax rather than a property-based levy – the Coalition responded on 17 June by reasoning that the UK had a sales tax in the form of VAT. A poll carried out since the rejection, however, has found that 80 per cent of MPs admit that current system is “not fit for purpose” and is “in need of fundamental reform”. The poll, which was commissioned by the BRC, also found that the overwhelming majority of MPs (93 per cent) agreed that the reform of business rates was an important area for the future success of high streets and town centres. The BRC is now publishing Manifesto Milestones – the next step in its campaign to see a complete reform of the system by 2017.
GINA BACCONI 020 8438 2000 sales@ginabacconi.com WWW.GINABACCONI.COM
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PEOPLE —
BACKSTAGE The other side of womenswear —
COCKTAILS AND DRESSES In an opening suitably glamorous for an eveningwear brand, Ian Stuart launched its Blewcoat boutique in extravagant style last month. Marking his retirement from the fashion world and helping out a NEWS FLASH former trainee, designer — David Sassoon officially Footwear label Birkenstock opened Ian Stuart’s latest opened its new flagship store in venture, which is located London this month. The shop is in London’s Victoria. A located on West London’s Neal Street and will showcase live harpist welcomed the brand’s comprehensive guests to the new store, a/w 14 collection. which is housed in the — historic Christopher Wren building on Buckingham Gate Road, and Blewcoat cocktails were created specifically for the occasion. —
GRAND RIDE HOME Yorkshire took the opportunity to showcase its yarns last month when the region played host to international sports event the Grand Depart of the Tour De France. The UKFT hosted two fashion shows at Leeds’ Carriageworks Theatre and an interactive, cycling-themed knitting workshop in the lead up to the event in celebration of the diversity of Yorkshire’s textile trade. —
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Premium international trade show Scoop welcomed new exhibitors and an increase in international buyers to its eighth edition last month, taking place across London’s Saatchi Gallery and Phillips.
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SMALL RETAILER, SUPPORTIVE DRAGON
Sperry jumps aboard Footwear label Sperry Top-Sider got into the spirit of last month’s Henley Regatta with a nautical makeover of its pop-up Neal Street store. The Covent Garden premises was decked out in all things nautical, with classic regatta memorabilia and heritage university colours decorating the store from 1 July. —
Former Dragons’ Den star Theo Paphitis threw his weight behind last month’s Independents’ Day campaign, which encouraged consumers to buy local and buy independent on 4 July. Paphitis, who is also the founder of lingerie retailer Boux Avenue, says, “Independents’ Day was a fantastic opportunity for small businesses to take the limelight, attract new customers and show off the unique offer that sets them apart.” —
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OPINION —
TALKING POINT Key industry players give their views on the issues that affect womenswear. —
MOVING CAN BE THE BIGGEST BOOST
DELUDED OR JUST CLUELESS?
We have had a super busy time at James Lakeland. We have finally moved into our new building on Euston Road, and it has been the best boost I have had in years. We have the showroom, administration and warehouse all together, and our communication and productivity have gone to a new level.
The more I read about how Cameron and Osborne think our economy is growing like a dream – the more deluded I think they are.
July and August are always the busiest times for me. I am selling our new spring/summer collection for 2015, receiving the new autumn winter stock and also looking at new suppliers. I always look at new product and think it is necessary not to be stuck, but to move on. The fashion market demands change, and we have created our own niche and following. Relationships with clients and suppliers are top of my list, and there has to be respect and communication if you want to be successful. The change in energy has led me to accept fundamental aspects of this business; women will buy new clothes continuously and it is how you present them that is part of the challenge. In a super-opinionated industry, you have to stand your ground and make your mark. I have embraced technology and Facebook, the internet, Twitter and Pinterest, and am no longer scared or nonchalant in my approach. I realise that customers want to see visually what you are doing next. Service is also extremely important – especially on the shop floor – and, if you want to work in retail, you have to be fast, think quickly and most importantly always be positive. Shopping is an enjoyment, and it has to have an element of fun. Over the next two months, all buyers are going to have a big job, and the show circuit is starting all over again. From trade shows to fashion weeks, we are all looking for the next direction and to make decisions on what our customers will like to buy for next spring/summer. I know from personal experience how change can often be difficult, but when you take that first step and move on – like I did moving premises after 12 years – it does make you see things differently. I want my shops and showroom to be exciting; the background music has to have an engaging tune, we try not to pack the shop floor, and we show the clothes in a premium way. De-cluttering is important, and displays and shop windows are your advertising to the world. This includes how you display yourself on the internet. We all go to Google and look up brands and stores to check each other out. This is how the market has evolved. Things are more transparent and we cannot hide, so my goal is to work with customers who want to build successful business with us, and who are not worried of taking a risk and moving forward. —
Up until just over two years ago, I ran my company Wizard Jeans from London. Things looked dire for the economy, and the global financial markets agreed – the UK had been suffering this situation since around 2009. So weighing up all the pros and cons and knowing that these days you can run a business pretty much from anywhere in the world, I decided that quality of life was becoming increasingly important and so moved the business and family back to where I was born, Torquay in Devon. Torquay is pretty much like any town outside of the M25 – in desperate need of investment. Since I left the area in 1975, the demise of the town has been steep. The once-thriving high street is now a mixture of 40 per cent closed retail units, charity shops and the few hardy retailers that are gamely teetering on the edge of financial oblivion. All high streets need footfall to survive, and to do that they need interesting offerings from retailers to attract them – but in the current economic climate and still high business rates, it is not something for the faint-hearted to invest in. Sadly, as yet, there is no help from either local councils or the government in reassessing the business rates or much else, to stimulate high streets outside of London – and we have even had retailers in Central London go bust – so what future for those outside the “golden pond”? Importantly, why are we still sending £280m per annum to India, which is becoming one of the richest nations on earth – and with its own space programme? Surely the “aid” money would be better spent sorting out (or trying to) all the escalating problems at home first. At Wizard Jeans we try hard to help our dwindling number of retailers in the UK by having no minimum orders. We also carry a huge amount of stock so that we can deliver short orders and so that our customers don’t have to waste precious retail space on storage. If we get an order before midday we deliver the following day (except weekends). So we are trying to accommodate the obvious problems of retailers who have been forced to over buy forward by the big brands and then get stuck with a lot of unsold stock. We are fortunate that apart from our burgeoning global Internet sales, we recently signed a distribution deal for Australia and New Zealand and we strongly believe that our future is in growing overseas markets – where in particular they value British-made jeans very highly indeed. In the meantime, I am convinced that we are governed by ill-informed, clueless and certainly uncaring people at Westminster – and that includes all parties. —
James Lakeland, owner, James Lakeland
Sally Allen-Gerard, founder and director, Wizard Jeans
MODA NEC Birmingham 10 - 12 August 2014 Stand - F49 Moda Noir Section
www.rakhidesign.com Tel: +44 (0)20 8406 9715 Mob: +44 (0)7930931041
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INTERVIEW —
Q&A
Louise Reynolds Co-founder and designer, Traffic People — Traffic People, with its eye-catching, vintage-inspired designs, is one of those brands defined by the past but with a new edge for a modern consumer. Tom Bottomley gets the green light on the inside story of the brand from co-founder and designer Louise Reynolds. —
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Tom Bottomley: Where does the name Traffic People come from? Louise Reynolds: Traffic People comes from the comings and goings of today’s modern girl. It’s about the movement of people, gaining influences from around the world and a need to express these influences. TB: How did you start off in this business? LR: I did English and Drama as a degree, and used to make the costumes for the theatre productions. But I have had no formal training. I just have a love for it, and I learnt as I went along - with a few mistakes on the way, but luckily more successes. My first job out of university was actually at Emap Publishing selling classified ads in the fashion sections of Sky and Elle magazines. I’d ring up brands such as Antoni & Alison, who were always very lovely to me, trying to get them to place ads. It was a brilliant first job that I loved, but I soon realised I’d rather be the one on the other end of the phone. TB: So when did you start Traffic People? LR: I co-founded the business with my partner Mark Readman in 1999, in Camden and Portobello markets. We found a warehouse that had loads of original 70s curtain fabric and made clothing and bags out of it. This did phenomenally well for us and led to us having a concession in Topshop. We stopped the markets soon after getting into Topshop. Working on the markets is wonderful in the summer, and not so wonderful in the winter. When the fabric ran out we started to make up our own – keeping a vintage feel, but we could now do any era we wanted so we started making up 30s, 50s and 60s inspired fabrics on different bases so we could expand the range. We then got into the Cult stores, owned by Julian Dunkerton, a business that hugely supported new designers. And they placed orders that seemed surreal at the time. With Cult and Topshop we then had the turnover to expand our company and take on agents and distributors abroad. TB: Are you known for any pieces in particular? LR: When we first started we were known for our 50s-style skirts, and I try and incorporate at least one in every season, be it short, long or attached to a dress. TB: How has the business grown? LR: The business has grown well as we have taken on more distributors and the number of outlets has increased, even though the size of the orders did struggle during the recession. We have definitely felt the change towards optimism in the last six months, though, and we are getting a lot more interest outside of Europe in areas such as Russia and the Middle East. Primarily though we have built up a good relationship
INTERVIEW —
“We have worked hard at simplifying our styles to make them more flattering and versatile, while still retaining the Traffic People look”
with a lot of boutiques, many of whom have been with us from the start. TB: Who are some of your best accounts right now? LR: We do really well with Asos, with its strong online presence. In terms of the top-five performing UK boutiques I’d probably say Van Mildert in the North East, Boudoir Boutique in Liverpool, Bottega in Tarporley, Competitive Edge in Ormskirk and Quest Ladieswear in Falkirk. They all love our sense of the theatrical and vintage-inspired collections in fabrics and styles that make us stand out. Our new agents for the North, Olwyn Lorrison and Faye Saunt from Saves Nine Agency, have made a big difference. We are also now doing very well in Ireland since we took on a new agent, Georgina Bateman from Electric Agency. Blush, Harry & George and High Style are some good accounts there. And we do sell very well in Italy and Spain, as they love our bold prints and quirky designs. TB: Is wholesale an area you are looking to grow? LR: Wholesale is the main bulk of our business so its growth is very important to us. We are taking on more distributors who have a strong belief in the brand. TB: You currently have two standalone shops in East London, why did you choose those locations? LR: Our stores in Spitalfields and Brick Lane are perfect for the feel of Traffic People. It’s also our favourite part of London, with a good mix of all sorts of people. You have your affluent city crowd and your not so affluent arty crowd. It has a lovely happy feeling to it. TB: What’s new for the brand this year? LR: We are focusing on building the accessories that sit alongside the Traffic People collection. In the spring/summer 2015 collection we have bags that match every fabric. TB: What shows do you normally do and how have they been? LR: We did Scoop last season which I thought was a wonderful show, and wonderfully put
together. However, this season we are showing at Pure to get a feel for which show suits us best. We have just got back from showing at Panorama in Berlin, which I feel has promise. TB: Do you have a strong online business? LR: Our new website is currently under construction and we hope this will strengthen our online presence. TB: How important is social media to your business these days? LR: It’s very important indeed. We have been very late starters to this as Mark and I are the only people I know who don’t have personal pages on Facebook, Instagram and so on. However, we have appointed new people to bring us up-to-date as a brand. TB: Do you have in-store events for your regular customers? LR: We like to do a pre-Sale preview and drinks for our loyal shop customers. This year, however, we were caught a bit unaware, as the Sales all around us seemed to start so early and we just didn’t have time. TB: Being a brand with designs that have a sense of the theatrical about them, do you attract any stage performers? LR: Paloma Faith has been buying our brand since she was a young girl – from our first shop in Stoke Newington. That was 13 years ago. She was always so smiley and polite and even then had a presence about her. She was in our Spitalfields shop just last month and bought a dress. TB: What is in the spring/summer 2015 collection? LR: Spring/summer 2015 sees Traffic People going back to its roots with bright fun and quirky prints with a vintage feel. We have worked hard at simplifying our styles to make them more flattering and versatile, while still retaining the Traffic People look. We feel it’s our strongest collection to date. Key looks are our statement prom skirts, which wholesale from £21.50, and our bondage bandeau tops starting from £16.50 in candy pastels and bold prints. TB: Where do you get your design ideas? LR: Inspiration has always come from eras past. I love vintage pieces. I grew up with a love of old films, and my fashion heroines are still the likes of Lauren Bacall, Ava Gardner and Doris Day. I get a bit queasy when I see some of the prices in vintage boutiques these days, so I tend to ferret around the vintage markets. Spitalfields Antique and Vintage Market every Thursday is, conveniently, my favourite. I also still scour charity shops, as the odd diamond in the rough makes the find all the more sweeter. And thrift stores such as Beyond Retro and Absolute Vintage are also among my favourites.
30 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
FASHION —
STYLE FILE The hottest brands not to miss this month —
STYLE FLASH
▲ TO FIT AND FLATTER Danish label LauRie has been granted a patent for its Alice Magic Slim jeans in recognition of the brand’s unique construction and fabric technology. Introduced to the market in 2010 and now sold throughout Europe and the US, the jeans are designed to shape the stomach and bottom through meticulously calculated measures and a customised stretch fabric. —
— US denim label AG has teamed up with Alexa Chung to launch a 20-piece capsule collection, spanning high-waisted jeans, fitted tees and mod dresses. The collection will launch for s/s 15. —
▲
ROAD TRIPPIN’ With a pre-spring line inspired by New Mexico’s desert and a core spring offer of all-American blues, Becksondergaard takes style on a virtual road trip across the US for s/s 15. The latest collection from the Danish accessories label is interspersed with stars and stripes in all their variations, while Native American patterns allude to a whole new dimension of contemporary American culture. —
STYLE FLASH — French label Bleu Blanc Rouge has appointed London agency Sally Dawes to represent its UK interests as of s/s 15. The brand makes its debut at the agency’s Liberty House showroom on Regent Street this season. —
Icelandic activewear brand Nikita takes a new direction for s/s 15, repositioning its snow, swim and streetwear apparel for the contemporary fashion sector. Having always designed exclusively for women, the label applies its activewear aesthetics and premium materials to feminine silhouettes. —
Launching for s/s 15, Luna Nero is the latest addition to BRH International’s portfolio of branded womenswear. The Swiss label presents contemporary designs in feminine cuts, manufactured in luxury fabrics for an identity that transcends the seasons. —
▲ HIGH HEELS, HIGH STANDARDS Newly launched this season, Sargossa challenges the perception that stilettos have to be uncomfortable with a collection of high, slim heels designed with wellness in mind. Having started the design process with the study of the anatomy of the foot, Sargossa presents a range of fashion-led footwear featuring cushioned insoles and a unique construction designed around the pressure points of the foot. — —
Shaping up Shapewear undergoes a revolution this season with the launch of Figgahugga; a shapewear brand that steps away from apologetically coloured nude shapewear into a technicolour range of vibrant control dresses. Targeting the younger consumer seeking a smooth silhouette, the label presents a unique, double-layered construction made from breathable nylon and Lycra for extra-firm hold. —
Pure Stand J112 Moda, NEC Stand G10
FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522
FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518
E.MAIL. info@franksaul.com
WEB. www.franksaul.com
Copyright © 2013 - 2016 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2012. All rights reserved
34 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
FASHION —
FASHION RADAR The hottest brands to look out for right now —
AKA CLOTHING
VIELMA LONDON
Newly launched from the heart of Manchester, Aka Clothing arrives on the womenswear scene as a directional new brand for the streetwear sector.
Incorporating its signature V into a portfolio of innovative designs, Vielma London is a directional new addition to the UK fashion sector.
Established: 2013
Established: 2012
Signature style: Monochromatic styles, hand-designed prints and vintage influences.
Signature style: Clean-cut lines and luxurious fabrics.
Progressive, contemporary and luxury, Aka Clothing’s defining hallmarks run through each of its creations as the brand carves out a niche for itself within the streetwear sector. Targeting both men and women with its distinctive designs, the Manchester label focuses on minimalist styling, with monochromatic styles, hand-designed prints and vintage influences forming its signature. Key silhouettes within the womenswear offer include playsuits, high-waisted denim shorts, mesh bodycon two-pieces, oversize shirts, power mesh jumpers and high-waist leggings. Each manufactured in line with the brand’s commitment to luxurious quality, printing techniques are applied to each garment in an experimentation of diverse design that lends the brand its unique handwriting. Retail prices range from £30 to £100. —
Established in autumn 2012 by Chilean-born Gabriel Vielma, Vielma London is the result of an eclectic design career, spanning furniture, glass-making and ceramics. Influenced by the texture, colours and architecture of crafts, the collection focuses on innovative construction and questions the conventional when it comes to design aesthetics. Forming a hallmark right from its inception, each piece created by Vielma London incorporates the label’s signature V through inlays and cut-outs. The wider design focuses on clean-cut lines and unique prints, brought to life across a range of luxurious fabrics for a strong and distinctive identity. Wholesale prices range from £92. —
www.rubyrocks.com
CLOTHING FOOTWEAR BAGS JEWELLERY SUNGLASSES GIRLSWEAR
mbl: 0044 7973 718301 e: jenny@modoagency.onmicrosoft.com twitter: @RubyRocksLtd facebook: http://www.facebook.com/#!/RubyRocksUk http://pinterest.com/rubyrocksltd/ Showroom: 730 Capability Green, Luton, Bedfordshire, LU1 3LU
37 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
PROFILE —
Since its arrival in the UK seven years ago, Danish label Masai has established itself across the country as a contemporary womenswear brand with a style all of its own. Now, as the label prepares to unveil its spring collection exclusively at Moda Woman, the Masai culture is set to evolve one step further, as Christina Williams finds out. —
BEAUTIFULLY DIFFERENT
I
n seeking a name that could be pronounced in any language, siblings Hans and Nina Rye had aspirations beyond their native Denmark when they established Masai over two decades ago. Semantically beautiful and different and alluding to the free spirit of the Eastern African tribe, Masai fitted the bill and, 22 years on, the collection is more than ticking all of the boxes when it comes to living up to its name as a multi-national womenswear label. For the UK in particular, the arrival of Masai in 2007 was a proverbial breath of fresh air from Scandinavian climes. Elegant drapes, bohemian silhouettes and a cool relaxed style that never transcends the boundary into ethnic clothing, the brand had a certain point of difference from the outset – and it was one that retailers all over the country were keen to bring on board. From its inception in the UK with two people, 30 stockists and a single showroom, the label has developed over the past seven years into an established brand with a six-strong sales force, six showrooms and a nationwide portfolio of 380 stockists. Despite its impressive growth, however, family values dictate that expansion should remain
organic, and each of Masai’s stockists is considered to be a retail partner, and an integral member of the ever-growing Masai tribe. “We work hard with our existing retailers to build up long-term relationships, offering good margins, an exceptional product, great advice and support and – consequently – high sell-through,” says Kirsten Schueller, sales manager. “We are wholesale only in the UK and Ireland and, furthermore, we only deal with bricks-and-mortar retailers. We are a forward-order only company, but buyers know that they have to buy there and then because, if they don’t, the item will be gone due to high demand.” It’s a traditional approach in an industry where online sales, direct-to-consumer retail and selling from stock is increasingly commonplace but, for Masai, it’s a business model that works. The UK is in fact one of the brand’s most significant markets and, having established itself on these shores, the next step for the label is to continue its journey across Western Europe, with Germany and the Netherlands first on the agenda. It’s a well-trodden path for not only Danish, but Scandinavian labels in general and, according to Schueller, Northern Europe is only >>>
38 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
PROFILE —
“We work hard with our existing retailers to build up long-term relationships, offering good margins, an exceptional product, great advice and support and – consequently – high sell-through”
set to become more of a key player in the womenswear sector in seasons to come. “Consumers do seem to like clear, no-nonsense yet quirky clothes, and Scandinavia fulfils this idea,” she says. “Every woman likes nature’s materials draped around her figure and, whether you are delicately slender or more body-conscious, our clothes are designed to be worn by every woman.” As an integral element of Masai’s identity, silhouettes continue to be a key focus for s/s 15 and beyond. New shapes – some more structured than in previous collections – have been introduced alongside the label’s tried-and-tested classics in line with its ever-expanding appeal to an increasing demographic. “Our brand is moving further towards each end of the scale, catering for even more body forms, types and age,” says Schueller. “Our biggest development has been the transition from a label that was mainly established in Denmark and Scandinavia to a global brand with a global appeal.” The Masai presence spans 1,200 retailers in 25 markets worldwide, including Canada, Dubai, Australia and the US. Despite its ongoing expansion, however – and its targeted growth plan for Western Europe in particular – Masai has chosen to exhibit exclusively at Moda Woman for the UK this season. “We feel that to bring our business forward, Moda is the place to be at the moment,” says Schueller. “We are unique with our DNA but, in a brand context, we sit alongside labels such as Adini, Sandwich and Sahara, and Moda will provide the platform from which to unveil our new spring collection.” Simple but effective detailing is the key for s/s 15, with new
textures brought to life with a fresh, bright colour palette. The collection is a development of the brand’s autumn offer, which saw jersey fabrics, lace, knitwear and printed finishes layered in line with Masai’s distinctive handwriting. The muted, autumnal colour palette of Artichoke, Heather Purple, Mint and Berry evolves into a brighter array of new hues for spring, each piece designed as a standalone creation that can be mixed and layered for various dimensions of Masai. It’s a design direction spearheaded by Nina who, along with Hans, is still at the helm of the multi-national business. Assisted by freelance designers who elaborate models in line with the Ryes’ instructions, Nina remains faithful to the style hallmarks that have been so integral to her brand’s success, while evolving afresh season after season. “We strive to continually develop new and interesting prints and styles as well as innovative textures and yarn structures in collaboration with our competent suppliers,” says Schueller. “We mainly use natural fibres, and production takes place in both Europe and the Far East, although we work with long-term suppliers and factories so that we can make sure no child work or sweat shops are involved.” It’s an ongoing commitment to ethical trading that runs through the Masai business model, from the design concept to the front line of retail. And, as the brand looks ahead to s/s 15 and beyond, it’s a concept that is only set to become more prevalent across the womenswear industry from one side of the globe to the other. —
NEUTRAL SELECTION SOFT, FLUID PIECES IN AN UNDERSTATED PALETTE OF CALMING CREAM, WHITE AND NATURALS MAKE FOR A RELAXED, EFFORTLESSLY LUXE SEASON. —
Dress, Pomodoro, 020 8961 4000 Cardigan, Hauber, 07022 705137
Jacket, Creenstone, 020 7436 1701 Dress, James Lakeland, 07809 879210 Boots, stylist’s own
Jumper, Luisa Cerano, 07022 705111 Skirt, Steilmann, 020 7534 6051 Shoes, Rocket Dog, 020 7380 8340
Top, Latte, 0141 204 0699 Trousers, Hauber, 07022 705137 Necklace, Sam Ubhi, 020 8767 5533
Dress, Charlie by Matthew Zink, 07815 784316 Coat, Aigle, 01488 649170 Boots, stylist’s own
Shirt, Gelco, 020 7580 3202 Dress, James Lakeland, 07809 879210 Necklace, Sam Ubhi, 020 8767 5533
Jacket, Latte, 0141 204 0699 Top, Hauber, 07022 705137 Skirt, James Lakeland, 07809 879210 Belt, Sam Ubhi, 020 8767 5533 Boots, stylist’s own
Leather top, Quilt, 07815 784316 Jeans, Hauber, 07022 705137
Dress, Prey of London, 020 7488 1380 Earrings, Sam Ubhi, 020 8767 5533
Top, James Lakeland, 07809 879210 Trousers, Hauber, 07022 705137 Scarf as turban, Hauber, 07022 705137 Necklace, Sam Ubhi, 020 8767 5533 Flip-flops, stylist’s own
Jumper, Latte, 0141 204 0699 Trousers, Luisa Cerano, 07022 705111 Flip-flops, stylist’s own
Leather jacket, Urbancode London, 07815 784316 Dress, James Lakeland, 07809 879210 Boots, stylist’s own
Photographs: Darren Black, www.darrenblackphotography.com Model: Eva at Sapphires Model Management, www.sapphiresmodel.com Styling: Fran Lee, Production Element, www.franleestylist.co.uk Hair & make-up: Charlotte Yeomans, www.charlotteyeomans.com
Dress, La Bottega di Brumella, 01234 782900 Necklace and bangle, Sam Ubhi, 020 8767 5533 Boots, stylist’s own
Showing at: Pure, Stand: N112 Moda, Stand: J58 Tel: 0798 973 9019 Email: info@kc-agency.com
Group
Size range: 8-30 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA THAT’S ME BY JAGRO —
PRE COLLECTIONS: for delivery Dec/Jan 2015 Showing: London Showroom 01 July - 01 August 2014 Dublin Showroom 01 July to 01 August 2014 MAIN COLLECTIONS: for delivery February - April 2015 CIFF Copenhagen from 3 August - 6 August 2014 Bella Centre stand B3 - 241 Pure Exhibition Olympia from 3 August - 5 August 2014 Stand J118 London Showroom from 1 August - 15 September 2014 Showroom also open Sunday 3rd August 2014 - Weekend of Pure Moda Woman, NEC Birmingham from 10 August - 12 August 2014 Hall 18 - stand no J27, J28 & I28 Dublin Showroom, Fashion City from 01 August - 15 September 2014 with a Special Event on Sunday 17 August - 19 August 2014. — LONDON SHOWROOM Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043
Christa Probst GmbH 路 B眉rgermeister-Graf-Ring 10 路 82538 Geretsried 路 Germany
Moda UK | NEC Birmingham | Hall 18 | Stand K 50 | christaprobst-muenchen.com Contact: Antje Strepp | mobile +49-171-2149342 | greatbritain+ireland@christa-probst.com
MODA —
SPRING/ SUMMER 2015 AT MODA Bringing together the entire spectrum of the fashion industry under one roof, Moda returns to Birmingham’s NEC on 10-12 August. Key players from the womenswear, accessories, footwear, lingerie and swimwear sectors will once again come together for trend insights and essential buying, all brought to life across the vibrant platform of the UK’s most comprehensive fashion event. The season starts here. — >>>
SAHARA
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64 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
MODA —
MODA WOMAN
MASAI STAND J30 Exhibiting exclusively at Moda for the UK this season, Danish label Masai presents a range of inspiring silhouettes alongside its core classics. Oversize tops, tunics and dresses are teamed with trousers or fitted tube skirts to achieve the brand’s signature look of flowing, feminine shapes that never lack structure. LA NATURELLE STAND J41 Based on the Côte d’Azur, with concept stores all over France from St Tropez to the Pyrenées, La Naturelle brings French flair to the comfort of natural fibres. Specialising in natural linens and cottons, the brand is focusing on its international expansion this season with its latest collection of styles in a wearable colour palette of five summer shades. BRAX STAND H20 As a city where modern flair meets traditional passion, Barcelona provides the spring inspiration for German label Brax. City styling is brought to life with a range of tropical and jungle prints, including plant, animal and bi-colour leaf designs. MARBLE STAND J10 Marble unveils a range of luxurious light knits for spring, designed in line with its ethos of wearable layering. Simple yet chic staples are presented in tangerine, mint and watermelon, while a nod to all things nautical keeps styling summer-fresh. Also look out for the brand’s denim range, which this season sees the introduction of a dark denim wash. JAMES LAKELAND STAND I31 Moda regular James Lakeland returns to the event with a brand new collection that builds upon the label’s signature look of effortless elegance. Contemporary silhouettes are brought to life with bold colour blocking, while classic, wearable shapes feature throughout the collection.
JAMES LAKELAND
LA NATURELLE MARBLE
BRAX
MASAI
Moda Woman brings together brands from across the spectrum of the industry, providing a comprehensive overview of trends for s/s 15.
SWISH COLLECTION
ADINI
MODA —
NOMADS
LÉO GUY
SAHARA
65 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
SAHARA STAND H50 Natural fibres lend themselves to Sahara’s signature fluid shapes this season as the brand unveils a new range for spring, targeting a diverse demographic of women. Asymmetric tunics and relaxed jersey separates are key, while modern citrus and coral lend vibrant summer highlights to the collection. ADINI STAND K11 Carefree, fluid shapes allude to a laid-back beach vibe this season as Adini unveils a new collection of light summer styles. Bold colours and pretty prints are key across a range of shapes including tunics and loose cotton shift dresses. SWISH COLLECTION STAND J58 Swish Collection continues with its commitment to creating stylish yet comfortable silhouettes this season with a new range of styles in natural materials. Linen, cotton and viscose make up the textural palette across the brand’s range of knitwear, tops, tunics, trousers and skirts. LÉO GUY STAND J50 Parisian label Léo Guy presents its most comprehensive collection to date for s/s 15, comprising both structured and loose silhouettes. Colourful embroideries scattered with beads are prevalent throughout the collection, alongside delicate lace and light, romantic feminine fabrics. NOMADS STAND J25 Inspired by the natural beauty of Thailand, Nomads incorporates influences of wild flowers, handcrafted mosaics and a hint of Eastern spice. This season, the colour spectrum ranges from palest sky blue to deepest indigo for the UK label, with highlights of soft pink and raspberry.
>>>
66 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
MODA —
CPM STAND K50 CPM introduces three new themes across its latest offer – Glam, Rebel at Heart and Sound of Romance. Alluding to sparkling luxury, the casual street look, and romantic sports luxe respectively, the collection sits within the casual sector while incorporating subtle elements of decadence through intricate detailing. LILY & ME STAND K21 Nature-inspired prints are juxtaposed with a twist of retro geometry within the latest collection by British label Lily & Me. Lace-trim inserts add femininity, while pin-tucks and satin binding add textural depths to the range. POMODORO STAND I10 Inspired by the elements of nature, Pomodoro introduces five key lines for s/s 15 with an eclectic range of influences from the rainforest to elements of the sea. The collection once again focuses on styles designed to co-ordinate, with a range of knitwear and jersey pieces in statement colours. STEILMANN STAND H11 Steilmann continues with its journey of combining casual wear with elements of feminine elegance with its latest offer for s/s 15. Lace, diamante and metallic add detailing, while nude, yellow and pastel shades form the core colour palette for the brand. FABER STAND H28 German knitwear specialist Faber arrives at Moda with an array of new styles designed to complement wider womenswear trends while maintaining the brand’s signature commitment to quality and shape.
FABER
LILY & ME STEILMANN
POMODORO
CPM
MODA WOMAN
ELISA CAVALETTI
LINEA RAFFAELLI
MODA —
ALICE & BARNABE
TARA VAO
CHRISTA PROBST
67 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
CHRISTA PROBST STAND K50 Christa Probst welcomes the spring season with a new focus on snakeskin prints and iridescent effects. Rhinestone appliqués in heart and snake shapes add detailing, while soft silhouettes keep the range wearable. LINEA RAFFAELLI STAND E48 No longer exclusive to special events, the Linea Raffaelli collection diversifies for s/s 15 to encompass day and eveningwear. A-line skirts and dresses take the lead within the collection, complemented by a range of jackets and occasion outerwear. ELISA CAVALETTI STAND I50 Italian label Elisa Cavaletti arrives at Moda with a new range of spring styles bearing the label’s hallmark dedication to exquisite detailing. Flattering shapes in fashion-forward design allude to city living on the continent in line with the brand’s signature cosmopolitan styling. TARA VAO STAND K10 Combining plain block colours with eight different prints, French fashion label Tara Vao implements a rich aspect to its designs without any compromise to wearability. This season sees the brand experiment with new elements of detailing, including lace and ribbons. ALICE & BARNABE STAND K10 Alice & Barnabe introduces nine new stories for spring, all crafted from natural fabrics in line with the French label’s signature bohemian chic styling. Delicate prints are brought to life with an equally delicate colour palette of blue, clementine, rouge and rose.
>>>
Pure Stand J112 Moda, NEC Stand G10 BBEH Stand C22/41
FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522
FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518
E.MAIL. info@franksaul.com
WEB. www.lateliercollection.com
Copyright © 2013 - 2016 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2012. All rights reserved
72 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
MODA —
MODA NEWCOMERS
HOLSTER STAND X9 Entitled Sunrise to Sunset, the s/s 15 collection from footwear label Holster is designed to sparkle in the sunlight and shimmer in the moonlight. The Australian label focuses on distinctive embellishment in particular, bringing edgy glam rock studs, jewels and glass-beaded trims to the forefront of its designs. SOFT B STAND J31 Newly launched last year, Danish label Soft B specialises in bohemian styles that are created to be worn in light layers. Designed around a suitably delicate and harmonious colour palette, each piece within the collection is manufactured from natural fabrics. HERMANN LANGE STAND H3 One of Germany’s oldest fashion houses, Hermann Lange is a family owned label that arrives at Moda from the Ostwestfalen region and the heartland of Germany’s fashion industry. Soft tailoring is the focus for the brand, which specialises in fitted dresses and separates and feminine summer colours. MAC DUGGAL STAND E20 Merging the influences of an Indian-born heritage and a US upbringing, Mac Duggal is the eponymous creation of American designer Mac Duggal. The brand adds a lavish element to the burgeoning prom market with its intricate designs, and offers a range of evening styles from red carpet exclusives to cocktail dresses. LOOK Z STAND D50 New to the industry as well as Moda, London label Look Z was launched last year. The brand makes its Moda debut with its s/s 15 Paradise range, inspired by animal skin and designed in striking Brazilian silhouettes. The collection is 100 per cent European-made from fine Italian fabrics that are chlorine and UV resistant up to UPF 50.
LOOK Z
SOFT B MAC DUGGAL
HERMANN LANGE
HOLSTER
Brands across the spectrum of the womenswear industry are making their Moda debuts this month, launching their s/s 15 collections from the platform of the UK’s most comprehensive fashion trade event.
GINJA
MISS BARON
MODA —
NATALI SILHOUETTE
RAINBOW CLUB
INTOWN
73 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
INTOWN STAND J31 Offering a complete lifestyle look through its wide portfolio of styles and shapes, Danish newcomer Intown arrives at Moda with a comprehensive spring collection. Jackets, knitwear, skirts, trousers, jeans, shirts, tops and accessories all feature within the range, each created as a standalone piece that can also be combined to build dimensions of the brand’s identity. MISS BARON STAND J31 Making its Moda debut this season, Danish label Miss Baron offers an exclusive collection of womenswear, designed around current trends and made unique with the brand’s signature twist. Stylish separates are key for spring, with oversize tops lending a contemporary look to the label’s first Moda offer. GINJA STAND C53 Ginja arrives from Australia with a swimwear range designed in line with its surfer chick identity. Targeting the young, energetic consumer demographic, the latest offer from the brand features bold solids interspersed with vivid florals and textured chevron zig-zags. RAINBOW CLUB STAND F40 Making its Moda Noir debut this season, Rainbow Club offers a range of footwear that can be hand-dyed to its wearer’s exact requirements. Popular for evening, bridal and occasionwear, the label has been established since 1986, and also offers a range of shoe embellishments and ready-to-wear footwear. NATALI SILHOUETTE STAND I78 Arriving at Moda amid a textural mix of printed satin, lightweight chiffon and jersey viscose, Natali Silhouette is a Lithuanian label with a distinctive style identity. Specialising in prints that are bold but versatile enough to be mixed and matched, the brand celebrates the arrival of s/s 15 with a vibrant colour palette of aquamarine, dusky rose and citrus green.
>>>
Champagne Fashions Ltd Unit 1C, Tewin Court, Tewin Road, Welwyn Garden City, Herts AL7 1AU Tel: 01707 32 08 08 Tel/Fax: 0207 2819494 Email: goyalondon@aol.com
www.goyalondon.co.uk
SP R I NG 2 0 1 5
Pure, Olympia, 3rd - 5th August, Stand J71 Moda UK, NEC, 10th - 12th August, Stand I10 Simm, Madrid, 12th - 14th September Tel: +44 20 8961 4000 www.pomodoroclothing.com
76 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
MODA —
MODA ACCESSORIES
NV BAGS STAND M19 New to Moda this season, NV Bags arrives at the exhibition with a range of handbags in striking designs, crafted from an extensive textural palette of fabrics. PIA ROSSINI STAND O10 Pia Rossini is a diverse accessories label, offering a collection of handbags, scarves and resortwear cover-ups. This season sees the brand unveil a range of designs in a vibrant colour palette, each designed to co-ordinate or work as a standalone piece. SALLY YOUNG STAND O59 Brought to the UK by accessories label Acess, Sally Young is a New York brand that aims to make luxury accessories accessible to everyday women. BETTY BARCLAY STAND O40 Betty Barclay introduces a new range of neutral hues for s/s 15, diversifying away from its signature brights for a more comprehensive offer of summer accessories. The brand gives a subtle nod to nostalgia with its Kelly bags silhouettes while maintaining its commitment to contemporary style. MISS SHORTHAIR STAND N61 Inspired by catwalk trends, art and culture, accessories label Miss Shorthair offers a range of scarves which incorporate coral, aqua and yellow tones into pale base tones for an array of distinctive designs.
MISS SHORTHAIR
PIA ROSSINI BETTY BARCLAY
SALLY YOUNG
NV BAGS
Spanning the full spectrum of the sector from jewellery to handbags, Moda Accessories offers the perfect complement to the season’s wider womenswear trends.
ELIZA GRACIOUS
BULAGGI
MODA —
DENTS
BIZINTI
PEACH ACCESSORIES
77 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
PEACH ACCESSORIES STAND N38 Building upon 10 years’ experience in the accessories sector, Peach Accessories returns to Moda with its latest trend-led styles across the handbag, evening bag, fascinator, purse, shrug and sandal sectors. BULAGGI STAND N31 Dutch handbag label Bulaggi returns to Moda with its new range of on-trend designs in seasonal colours. Delicate, Exotic and Artistic are the key lines within the collection, focusing on lace and laser cuts, animal prints and colourful graphics respectively. ELIZA GRACIOUS STAND R67 Contemporary jewellery brand Eliza Gracious unveils its latest offer at Moda, revealing a range of design-led pieces in gold, silver and leather. Established in 2011, the label offers one of its most diverse collections to date since its launch at Moda Accessories. BIZINTI STAND O51 New jewellery brand Bizinti is brought to the UK from artisans across South America who specialise in fusing glass with other natural materials such as wood, suede, metal and stone. The distinctive collection spans handbags, belts, bikinis and jewellery and is already in 18 countries worldwide. DENTS STAND M11 Iconic British accessories label Dents returns to Moda with its latest range of fine leather handbags, jewellery and its signature gloves. Look out for the brand’s new spring shades, including a striking shade of antique rose.
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80 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
MODA —
MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR
BAKU STAND C53 New to Moda this season, Australian label Baku is best-known for its figure-flattering designs in eye-catching prints. S/s 15 sees the brand arrive at Moda amid an explosion of prints across its portfolio of enhancing silhouettes designed up to a G cup. PANACHE STAND C21 Panache unveils its Pretty Nostalgic collection for the new spring season, celebrating feminine elegance from a golden era gone by with influences of iconic beauties such as Katharine Hepburn. Houndstooth mixed with lace and florals appears throughout the collection, which includes popular returning shapes such as Tango as well as new styles. MILLESIA STAND B14 The latest collection from luxury French brand Millesia combines technical innovation with refined French style, for an air of seduction, femininity and elegance. High-end fabrics, elegant designs and careful attention to detail are the enduring signatures of the brand. TUTTI ROUGE STAND D50 Inspired by the 50s, High Hopes by Tutti Rouge brings post-war glamour to the new spring season with its vibrant array of designs. Pacific Blue, Sunshine Yellow and Hibiscus Pink provide the brights, while Mint and Crème add a more demure edge to the brand’s extensive colour palette. VEVIE STAND D50 Inspired by classic beach locations in Britain, France and the Hamptons, where faded memories of a glamorous beach age remain, Vevie bursts onto the scene for s/s 15 with a palette of juicy sherbet-mix tones, deep marine blues and vanilla hues. Launched in 2012, the brand builds upon its evolving identity as a refreshing swimwear label with its scoop, halter and bandeau silhouettes in tailored cup sizes B-E.
VEVIE
PANACHE TUTTI ROUGE
MILLESIA
BAKU
Moda Lingerie & Swimwear is the intimate apparel industry’s national trade show, and its adjacency to Moda Woman allows buyers from both sectors to buy into the latest styles for s/s 15.
CLEO SWIM
BESTFORM
MODA —
POUR MOI?
CURVY KATE
CARMEN MARC VALVO
81 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
CARMEN MARC VALVO STAND D18 Making its Moda debut this season, Carmen Marc Valvo offers a range of swimwear in contemporary cuts and bold summer colours. The eponymous collection by American designer Carmen Marc Valvo was launched in 1989 as an eveningwear range, but has since expanded into swimwear, eyewear and footwear. BESTFORM STAND D10 Corals, blues, mints and peaches are introduced to Bestform’s colour palette for s/s 15, adding a seasonal twist to the brand’s signature fit. Tops and bottoms are available separately throughout the collection for the perfect fit regardless of body shape. CLEO SWIM STAND C21 Poolside Paradise is the key theme for Cleo Swim this season as the brand adds a fresh holiday feel to all things nostalgic. Small print repeats, graphic motifs and bold stripes prevail, while colours clash and collide to bring the trend to life. CURVY KATE STAND C9 Curvy Kate explores new textural boundaries with its spring lingerie collection, introducing diamond and graphic-shaped embroidery across its popular silhouettes. Colours are pretty and muted in line with the soft, romantic theme of the collection, which is available in the brand’s signature size range of D-K cups and 28-44 back sizes. Also look out for Curvy Kate swimwear. POUR MOI? STAND A51 Since introducing beach styles into its collection in 2007, Pour Moi? has become as established for its swimwear as it is for its signature lingerie range. This season sees the brand unveil more vibrant styles in striking designs with no compromise to fit.
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82 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
MODA —
MODA FOOTWEAR
LEGERO
R.M WILLIAMS
MJUS
RAVEL
VIDORRETA
MODA IN PELLE
Moda Footwear brings together the sector’s leading labels, presenting the perfect opportunity to buy into complementary collections alongside the event’s core offer of womenswear.
RAVEL STAND U10 Ravel celebrates a melting pot of influences this spring, with laid-back summer vibes translated through raffia textures, metallic sheens and Aztec-inspired embellishments. Mules, multi-strap and caged sandals take centre stage, while dressier styles include flatform heels. MODA IN PELLE STAND S19 Moda in Pelle heralds a new direction with the launch of its s/s 15 collection. Incorporating exclusive new prints of classic neutral animal patterns with a chic Aztec feel and a range of vibrant florals, the brand comes into full bloom for the summer season with the launch of its new, directional styles. MJUS STAND S11 Mjus introduces 500 new materials into its offer for s/s 15, taking conventional summer designs and elevating them with the brand’s distinct handwriting. Booties, pumps, sneakers and shoes all feature within the new collection, alongside an extended collection of summer sandals. R.M WILLIAMS STAND S1 Making its Moda debut and brought to the UK by Cocoon Agencies, Australian label R.M Williams presents a range of footwear originally designed for men and women living in the Outback. Eight decades on from its inception, the brand combines traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design influences for a distinct collection of footwear. LEGERO STAND R29 Incorporating its key values of being casual, urban, beyond trends and timeless, Legero returns to Moda Footwear with a range of lightweight shoes that are designed to offer optimal comfort without any compromise to summer style.
83 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
MARIAN
DR MARTENS
REEF
DOLCIS
ROCKET DOG
MODA —
VIDORRETA STAND Q30 Handmade in Spain, each of the espadrilles in the Vidorreta collection is made with ecologic concerns in mind. Style-wise, nautical themes and metallic finishes prevail for spring across the brand’s range of silhouettes, which include wedges, demi-wedges and flats. DOLCIS STAND V29 Tapping into this season’s essential trends and translating them into accessible footwear styles, Dolcis presents a fashion-forward range for s/s 15. Multi-strap sandals and vintage silhouettes are key, brought to life with bow, lace and stitch detailing. ROCKET DOG STAND W10 Moda regular Rocket Dog returns for s/s 15 with a collection inspired by the brand’s Californian heritage. The Sunny Side Up story incorporates a vibrant colour palette with retro 70s influences, while new silhouettes including slingback sandals and espadrilles keep the range up-to-date. DR MARTENS STAND Y7 Dr Martens presents its low-cut Deardra Mary Jane as a key style this season; a dainty and feminine design that offers a retro yet fashionable look for s/s 15. With triangular stitch detail and two cut-aways, this has evolved from the detailing found on archive samples by the Dr Martens design team. REEF STAND T1 Surf label Reef introduces its first full footwear collection for s/s 15, incorporating a new, three-layer technology and a range of new upper designs created with comfort, support and durability in mind. MARIAN STAND O19 Making its Moda debut through Venutti Agencies, Marian arrives from the shoe-making region of Elche in Spain. The diverse collection spans a range of styles from elegant courts through to comfortable wedges and is designed around a broad colour palette.
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84 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
PROFILE —
WHAT’S ON AT MODA Brands join together with expert business advice, trend inspiration and networking events at Moda this season and, to make sure you don’t miss out on all the show has to offer, we bring you the essential what’s on. RETAIL CLINIC
CATWALK SCHEDULE
The Fashion Association of Britain, the specialist fashion division of the British Independent Retailers Association, will be on hand in Moda Woman, giving practical business advice. Take advantage of this free opportunity to access experts on a one-to-one basis on stand F78.
HALL 20 Sunday 10 August 10.00-10.30 Urban & Contemporary catwalk 11.15-11.45 Tailoring & Lifestyle catwalk 12.00-12.30 Jonny Ross – Blog to basket 12.45-13.15 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 13.30-14.00 Urban & Contemporary catwalk 14.15-14.45 Kate Hills – Make it British 15.00-15.30 Tailoring & Lifestyle catwalk 16.00-16.30 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 18.00-18.30 Urban & Contemporary catwalk & drinks
A STYLE ICON Don’t miss the chance to meet design and style icon Zandra Rhodes on stand N28 in Moda Accessories and view the latest offering from her eponymous handbag collection. Appearing on Monday 11 August, Rhodes will be on her stand throughout the show to promote her new-season designs.
THE E-ZONE LIVE
LYCRA® is a trademark of INVISTA
LET LYCRA® MOVE YOU In Moda Lingerie & Swimwear, the Invista LYCRA® Fibre team will take over the plaza in Hall 17. Find out about the brand’s latest developments and, while in the area, visit the Patricia Eve and Cake Lingerie stands to be in with a chance to win some fabulous prizes.
Moda is embracing all things e-commerce and technology focused this season as talk of retail’s evolving marketplace continues to intensify. Offering a solution to in-store, online, e-marketing and logistical services, the Moda team has assembled a host of key companies set to reveal the latest developments in the retail technologies sector. Topics include blogging, online marketing, how best to describe your products online, Epos, delivery and logistics, omni-channel and stock management systems. See the full list of speakers and exhibitors at moda-uk.co.uk. Meet the teams behind 360 Resourcing, Brightpearl, Esperus, Retail Technology, Top To Toe and Zipdelivery.
BACK TO BEECHES & SUNDAY DRINKS PARTIES Get together with your peers to toast to a new season of business with both the Sunday drinks reception starting from 6.00pm in the NEC grounds and a premium barbecue at the Beeches Bar & Grill on Monday. Everyone is welcome to the Sunday night reception, but tickets are selling out fast for the Beeches barbecue – to secure yours please contact nicole.yates@moda-uk.co.uk or call +44 (0)1484 846069.
VISIT EACH HE STAND IN T O BE T E E-ZONE LIV A H NCE IN WITH A C G OF WINNIN . D AN IPA
Monday 11 August 10.00-10.30 Tailoring & Lifestyle catwalk 11.00-11.30 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 12.00-12.30 Eve Reid – Turning a good brand into a successful one 13.00-13.30 Urban & Contemporary catwalk 14.00-14.30 Tailoring & Lifestyle catwalk 15.00-15.30 Tony Scott – Taking stock 16.00-16.30 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 17.00-17.30 Urban & Contemporary catwalk Tuesday 12 August 10.00-10.30 Urban & Contemporary catwalk 12.00-12.30 Tailoring & Lifestyle catwalk 13.45-14.15 Footwear & Accessories catwalk HALL 17 Sunday 10 August 10.00-10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.15-11.45 Fashion catwalk 12.00-12.30 Jon Tromans – Secrets of SEO 12.45-13.15 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 13.30-14.00 Fashion catwalk 14.15-14.45 FAB – 30 mins: 30 questions 15.00-15.30 Evening & Occasionwear catwalk 16.00-16.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 16.45- 17.30 Kate Hills – Make it British 18.00-18.30 Fashion catwalk & drinks Monday 11 August 10.00-10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 10.45-11.15 Eve Reid – Turning a good brand into a successful one 11.30-12.00 Fashion catwalk 12.15-12.45 Jon Tromans – Writing your way to online sales 13.00-13.30 Evening & Occasionwear catwalk 14.00-14.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 15.00-15.30 Martin O’Toole – Online marketing and you 16.00-16.30 Fashion catwalk 17.00-17.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Tuesday 12 August 10.00-10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.15-11.45 Michael Bloom – Tale of two stores: Bricks and clicks 12.00-12.30 Fashion catwalk 13.00-13.30 Portsmouth University – The science of bras 13.45-14.15 Evening & Occasionwear catwalk 14.30-15.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Register online and see the full list of exhibitors and speakers destined for this season’s show at moda-uk.co.uk.
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View our Spring 2015 collection @ MODA - HALL 17 - STAND F10 | @ HARROGATE BRIDAL SHOW - HALL Q
www.mon-cheri.co.uk
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
AN EVENTFUL SUMMER
John Charles, showing at Moda, stand E10
87 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
Spring/summer 2015 evening and occasionwear trends. >>>
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
Linea Raffaelli
88 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
Orange crush
Dynasty
Rakhi
Ariella
Sonia Pena
From the prettiest, palest peaches to the hottest tangerine, fashion-forward orange is the perfect hue to make the most of a sunny day. The most flattering of palettes bursts across a variety of styles, from frothy jewelled creations to sassy, grown-up pieces. —
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
Eternity
89 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
AT MODA
Mashiah
Eternity
Crystal Breeze
L’Atelier
— Crystal Breeze, stand E28 Eternity, stand F60 L’Atelier, stand G10 Linea Raffaelli, stand E48 Rakhi, stand F49 Sonia Pena, stand F51 —
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Dress Code by Veromia
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
Pretty Maids
Ronald Joyce
90 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
Cafe latté
Gill Harvey
John Charles
Softly elegant for evening and sartorially smart for special-occasion days, warm coffee-shop shades of chocolate, cream, caramel, mocha and cappuccino are served up with style this season. —
— Dress Code by Veromia, stand F9 John Charles, stand E10 Mascara, stand G10 Ronald Joyce, stand F29 —
Mascara
Carla Ruiz
AT MODA
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Pure Stand J112 Moda, NEC Stand G10 BBEH Stand C22/41
FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522
FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518
E.MAIL. info@franksaul.com
WEB. www.mascaracollection.com
Copyright © 2013 - 2016 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2012. All rights reserved
93 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
Gill Harvey
Dressed Up by Veromia
Crystal Breeze
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
Simple lines Away from elaborate detail and structured, formal silhouettes, softly draping pieces are a refreshingly feminine alternative this season. Easy to wear and effortlessly luxurious, they ooze relaxed glamour for a laid-back summer. —
— Crystal Breeze, stand E28 Dressed Up by Veromia, stand F9 Michaela Louisa, stand H40 —
Vera Mont
Michaela Louisa
Ariella
AT MODA
>>>
94 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
Michaela Louisa
Joseph Ribkoff
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
Mixed bouquet
— Sonia Pena, stand F51 L’Atelier, stand G10 Michaela Louisa, stand H40 —
Sonia Pena
AT MODA
Dynasty
Ariella
L’Atelier
Viviana
Lush, scattered florals in a myriad of shades set the scene for a flower-strewn spring/summer. From delicate, muted blossoms to bold, graphic blooms, this versatile print lends the season’s occasionwear pieces an ornate, ladylike feel. —
95 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
Carla Ruiz
Irresistible by Veromia
Sonia Pena
Mac Duggal
EVENING & OCCASIONWEAR —
Seductive shoulders
Mascara
Fashion’s gaze rests firmly on the shoulder when it comes to detail this season, with embellishment, lace and accentuating cuts leading the way to a subtle, sexy, feminine allure. —
John Charles
— John Charles, stand E10 Irresistible by Veromia, stand F39 Mac Duggal, stand E20 Mascara, stand G10 Sonia Pena, stand F51 —
Pretty Maids
AT MODA
98 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
SCOOP —
SCOOP REVIEW LAST MONTH SAW PREMIUM WOMENSWEAR SHOW SCOOP BRING TOGETHER A CAREFULLY CURATED EDIT OF UP-AND-COMING LABELS AND DIRECTIONAL COLLECTIONS IN THE STYLISH SURROUNDINGS OF LONDON’S SAATCHI GALLERY AND PHILLIPS. —
ANNEE New to the UK as well as Scoop, premium Belgian label Annee makes a lasting impression on the UK market with its range of intricate and feminine designs. Pure fabrics are given a contemporary edge, while a striking colour palette makes for an eye-catching collection. —
AXARA French label Axara introduces a focus on prints through texture with the launch of its latest range of spring womenswear. Manufactured in France and Italy, the brand adds elements of summer with a fresh new spring palette. —
BITTE KAI RAND Striking prints are brought to life in flattering, fluid silhouettes this season as Bitte Kai Rand unveils its latest offer. The Danish brand’s key dress style features multi-purpose pockets that can be tied for a wrap structure. —
BUTTERFLY Celebrating 10 years this year, London label Butterfly Jewellery unveils a range of statement styles from chunky cuffs and bejewelled collars to tasseled necklaces. —
99 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
SCOOP —
FRAU BLAU Making its Scoop debut this season, Frau Blau arrived from the Netherlands with a range of womenswear designed to represent a whimsical and positive outlook on life. Established 12 years ago, the brand specialises in creating digital prints on fabric. —
GESTUZ Making its Scoop debut this season, Danish label Gestuz incorporates its signature focus on suede with sports luxe influences and fluid silk pieces for a distinctive collection for s/s 15. —
HARRIS WILSON Harris Wilson embraces easy-to-wear clothing that can be worn in the city as well as translating effortlessly to the countryside. Spring sees colour and print at the forefront of the brand’s signature casual shapes, with bold detailing such as elbow patches alluding to its heritage. —
HAUBER Prints and colour blocks both feature throughout the latest collection by German label Hauber, which brings its signature, wearable silhouettes bang up-to-date with a striking new range of designs. —
IKKS Following on from its soft launch in the UK, Parisian label IKKS develops its British presence this season with the launch of its latest spring styles. Colours are low key, as black, white and neutral shades let the quality, cut and design of each piece do the talking. —
LIEBESKIND BERLIN Accessories label Liebeskind Berlin gives its signature silhouettes a summer makeover with a new range of seasonal hues. —
LOULU ET TU A year on from its inception, Loulu et Tu builds upon its successful launch with its latest offer of directional womenswear. Designed in line with the brand’s hallmark delicate silhouettes, the latest collection incorporates statement elements through eye-catching prints and colours. —
MODALU British handbag label Modalu introduces a collection of wallets for the new season, designed in line with its core range of handbags. Elsewhere in the wider collection, the Verity line undergoes a makeover with a palette of spring pastel shades. —
100 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
SCOOP —
SABINA SAVAGE British designer Sabina Savage returns for her third season with a range of illustration-design scarves, handmade in Italy from cashmere wool and silk. —
SAND Created around the concept of selecting fabric first and designing to suit its print and texture, Danish label Sand presents a range of striking designs for s/s 15. As always, tailoring and outerwear are key focuses for the label, from light cover-ups to distinctive jackets. —
SARGOSSA New launch Sargossa challenges footwear conventions with its range of elegant high heels, all of which are designed with comfort in mind. Designed following a revolutionary look at the anatomy of the foot, the brand promises all-day comfort with no compromise to style. —
SET Designed for urban individuals, womenswear label Set reinterprets its signature rock-inspired style for the new season. Incorporating clean, modern design, the brand focuses on pieces designed to complement each other as well as standing alone. —
ST ERASMUS Luxury London label St Erasmus presents a selection of distinctive jewellery, combining statement pieces with layers of intricacy. Designed by South African-born Pieter Louis Erasmus, the brand celebrates 12 years this year with a collection that builds upon its immediately recognisable style. —
TER DE CARACTERE Launched last year as Caractere’s younger, sportier sister, Ter de Caractere made its Scoop debut this season with a range of colour-block designs in clean, contemporary silhouettes, each incorporating the DNA of its established Italian parent label. —
THAT WINTER Making both its UK and Scoop debuts this season, That Winter arrived from Italy with a range of feminine designs in a delicate range of hues. Already established in France as well as its native Italy, the brand is building upon its European presence throughout s/s 15 and beyond. —
XD XENIA DESIGN XD Xenia Design arrived at Scoop from Croatia with a striking range of styles for the new season. Monochrome was prevalent throughout the collection, while shapes were fluid and flattering to keep the collection wearable. —
102 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
BREAD & BUTTER —
BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN
BENSIMON
MINIMUM
SOAKED IN LUXURY
MODSTRÜM
ELEVEN PARIS
TWIST & TANGO
TIGER OF SWEDEN
The skies over Berlin Tempelhof at the beginning of July may have been thunderous and grey, but there was nothing dull about the collections inside, which shone bright with new direction and a strong air of commerciality. —
SAVE MY BAG
FORNARINA
FRANSA
WORKS OF ART Painterly, brushstroke effects gave pieces a gallery-worthy feel for the new season. Designs were abstract and unstructured, while colour combinations were often bold and contrasting.
ANIMAL HOUSE Animal print was overhauled for s/s 15 at the show, with the old favourites appearing in new, interesting colour palettes, digitally printed or juxtaposed with clashing, unexpected patterns.
103 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
SOMA
YUMI
TIGER OF SWEDEN
BIRKENSTOCK
AIGLE
BREAD & BUTTER —
COOLWAY
GESTUZ
ICHI
FORNARINA
SILVIAN HEACH
YELLOW ALERT Proving a favourite this summer, and set to extend its reach for s/s 15, the colour yellow provided stand-out flashes across the halls. Everything from jackets and dresses to footwear and accessories received the sunshine treatment, in a palette that ranged from lemon and acid through mustard to canary.
CREATURES GREAT AND SMALL Motifs of birds and animals cavorted across everything from casual outerwear to smarter, more ladylike pieces. Our feathered friends were key, with hens, flamingos and toucans all featuring in colourful designs, while dinosaurs and big cats got in on the act on a few stands alongside the more usual dog prints.
THE SEAMSTRESS OF BLOOMSBURY
YUMI
CUTIE LONDON
THE WHITE PEPPER
PAEZ
BACK TO BLACK AND WHITE The ever-popular black-and-white combo returned in the form of graphic, geometric and linear designs, whether as precise, crisp lines or scratchy, more haphazard patterns.
104 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
EXPERTS —
ADVICE Industry experts answer your retail questions —
HOW INTEGRAL IS MOBILE TO MY RETAIL BUSINESS?
HOW WOULD A REFUSAL FOR FLEXIBLE WORKING AFFECT ME?
Today’s shopper is demanding. The constant influx of new channels and technologies has meant that consumer expectations have never been higher, with many now craving the highest level of convenience when they head to a retailer.
Last month saw new legislation introduced regarding the rights of employees to request flexible working patterns in the workplace.
Mobile is a trend that has long been serving this audience, and one that retailers have been relying on more and more to create a seamless online shopping experience. But while the technology continues to dominate the headlines, it’s becoming very easy for other channels to be somewhat pushed aside. Although still present, the desktop has become a far less common shopping channel recently, with many consumers preferring to browse for products on the go. And although it has never been more important that retailers embrace this change, it is also just as important that its less popular shopping channels do not get completely neglected. Understanding the differences between a customer who is looking at your site on a mobile, smart TV or browsing your site to collect in-store is critical to success. The key is to remain consistent, allowing your brand to remain just as strong across each offering, as catching a consumer on their mobile can be the perfect way to draw them to other channels at your business. So in this sense, retail marketers need to put a significant amount of effort into multi-screen and multi-device strategies to deliver a relevant, optimised and consistent experience regardless of a particular device. In the midst of a mobile boom, it is easy to become distracted, but it’s vital that retailers do not forget customers who are not adhering to the trend. Retailers that are able to understand what their customers are doing online, in-store and on their mobiles are ultimately the ones that will secure the most loyalty among its shoppers. Only then will retailers be equipped with the information needed to build on their customer experience going forward, ensuring the needs of all of their customers, regardless of how they are shopping, are met. —
Gavin Masters is head of e-commerce consultancy Maginus Software Solutions and can be contacted via www.maginus.com.
The changes to flexible working brought in by the Children and Families Act 2014 has extended the right to request flexible working to all employees (who have 26 weeks’ service). The previous statutory procedure for considering such requests has been removed and employers will instead now be required to consider all such requests in a “reasonable manner” and within a time frame of three months (unless a further period is agreed with the employer). Flexible working in this context may take various forms, including job-sharing, part-time working or working from home. Employees will still be restricted to only making one request for flexible working within any 12-month period. Employers will, however, retain the right to refuse requests on permitted business grounds. In practice, if there is a dispute about an employee’s flexible working request, an Employment Tribunal can only order the employer to reconsider the application and award compensation – capped at just eight weeks’ pay at the statutory rate (currently £464 a week). Tribunals cannot question the permitted business reasons behind an employer's decision to refuse a request, or order that the request be granted. This severely restricts the scrutiny to which an employer’s decision may be subjected. But employers should be aware of the risks of a potential discrimination claim if they refuse a flexible working request. This typically occurs where such requests relate to childcare commitments or religious requirements. For those types of discrimination claims, compensation is potentially uncapped. A code of practice has been drawn up by the Advisory, Conciliation and Arbitration Service (ACAS) to assist both employers and employees with this new duty and this can be downloaded – along with further guidance regarding the legislation – from the ACAS website at www.acas.org.uk. The guidance details how an employer should handle a request, how to prioritise conflicting requests received at the same time and how employers can handle temporary changes to working patterns. Employers are also advised to update their employee handbooks to reflect these upcoming changes, following consultation with their employees. —
Mark Shulman is a consultant solicitor at employment and business law specialist Keystone Law.
106 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
RETAIL DIARY In my experience at Oberon, I find that jewellery serves as a barometer of how customers are feeling about spending. On that basis, I can honestly say that the “feel-good factor” has returned and customers are feeling more confident about spending again. In the jewellery department, Ayala Bar and Uno de 50 have been our bestselling brands this season. In womenswear we’ve had an unprecedented success with Masai, which has given us 95 per cent sell-through at full price. Masai has been consistently good for us; it delivers every season and the dresses are particularly popular. We planned the Sale relatively far in advance this year. We tend to mark down the slow sellers at 50 per cent immediately – everything else is marked down by 20 per cent. Even with three premises, space is at a premium and we aim to have the season’s stock cleared by August so that we can move on to the autumn collections by the start of September. As an independent retailer, any help with running costs is always welcome, so we were very grateful for the business rate relief earlier this year, which I know Bira and FAB have campaigned for. I am always open to ideas but, despite the rise of e-commerce, I remain unconvinced that it’s the right model for Oberon. I feel passionate about the human contact on the shop floor and my heart just isn’t in it as far as online trading is concerned. Contrary to what one hears in the industry, we find that customers who seek a brand with a strong following, such as Seasalt or Sandwich, will research online and then visit us to try the item on and then buy it. Despite the functional benefits of online, you cannot try things on and feel them. Many of our labels, such as Great Plains, do their own marketing which we will eventually benefit from as the customers seek us out. We have people visiting us from Derbyshire and the West Midlands; it seems there is no distance a woman will not travel for her clothes! — Stacey Hill is the owner of Oberon, which has three stores in Shrewsbury. Oberon is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB). www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk.
FORUM —
RETAIL FORUM
The latest news from the industry —
FEATHERS CELEBRATES 40 YEARS IN KNIGHTSBRIDGE
EDEN CELEBRATES INDEPENDENT RETAILER MONTH Throughout July, for every £10 spent in-store, Edinburgh store Eden gave customers £1 back to spend during the month of August. Also, through July, the boutique ran a social media competition, with the chance to win a £50 voucher to spend in-store. “We have a lot of independents in Stockbridge,” says store owner Ruth George. “And it’s all about raising customer awareness.” Eden will take part in Stockfest – an event celebrating independent businesses in the Stockbridge area of Edinburgh – in September. —
The iconic independent boutique celebrates 40 years on Hans Crescent, opposite Harrods, this year. As part of the celebrations, Feathers is collaborating with other independents on a number of projects and in store events. Last month, the boutique’s in-store event, A Day in Feathers, saw guests treated to drinks and the opportunity to observe a live illustration event by curator of the Fashion and Textile Museum, Dennis Nothdruft. A further press event in partnership with premium gin label D1 London Gin will be held in October. —
107 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
FORUM —
WHAT WILL YOU BE WEARING TO THE SHOWS THIS SEASON?
INDEPENDENTS’ DAY AT THE WOMEN’S SOCIETY BOUTIQUE Independent retailers in Hertford came together last month to celebrate Independents’ Day with American-themed activities in the town centre. The Women’s Society Boutique celebrated with a late-night opening, serving popcorn and American snacks. Customers also had the chance to win an American-themed hamper, containing goods from Sloppy Joes, Almost Famous and Soaked in Luxury worth over £250. The store will be celebrating eight years in business this September. No celebration plans are finalised yet, but owner Victoria Rex says, “Watch this space.” —
DERYANE TADD Owner, The Dressing Room, Hertfordshire
BOUDOIR FEMME GETS IN THE SADDLE Independent womenswear boutique Boudoir Femme raised over £700 last month through a sponsored cycle event, hosted in celebration of the Grand Depart of the Tour De France. The Cambridge store waved off a team of intrepid cyclists on 5 July, all of whom were cycling in aid of Tom’s Trust, the charity for children who have been diagnosed with brain tumours. In celebration of the event, customers also received double loyalty points on all purchases made on the day and were entered into a competition to win £75. —
MY LAST PURCHASE
MEL ROLLINSON IS THE OWNER OF WOODIE & MORRIS, A WOMENSWEAR INDEPENDENT IN HASLEMERE AND CRANLEIGH, SURREY.
“I love the Trapeze jersey top by Black White Denim. It’s longer at the back, covering my bottom, and shorter at the front with a slight swing. I wear it all the time with denim of pretty much any shape – such as boyfriend jeans – and Supergas but, because it’s so simple, it’s easy to dress up or down. I also like the narrow fit of the sleeves, the scoop neckline and the soft model fabric, which hasn’t lost its shape despite frequent washing. And I love the fact that it is made in Britain! If I could persuade Black White Denim to produce this top in a million other colours including brights, I would be heading back for quite a few more.”
“I tend to go for a Day Birger et Mikkelsen dress or silk trousers worn with some flat Sam Edelman or Ash sandals. My bag of choice is generally my Chloe Paraty bag as it is slightly lighter than my others. However, I still always end up with what I call ‘trade-show shoulder’.” —
PIPPA SANDISON Owner, Boudoir Femme, Cambridge
“I'll be wearing the Phoebe boyfriend jeans by MIH Jeans with a silk cami by Sack’s. The trusty Gigi flat sandal in gold by Sam Edelman works for easy glamour and comfort. If it’s hot, the American Vintage midi dress in black with the same sandals works from day to evening events.” —
ALEENA LIPPIATT Owner, Aleena’s Boutique, Glasgow
“You can’t go wrong with something simple like a loose vest, maxi skirt and jewellery. I also love the cigarette trouser and blazer combo at the moment; it is a great outfit that can be worn to shows and is still dressy enough to go out for dinner and drinks afterwards.” —
AMANDA SULIMAN BELL “This season I am choosing a black and Owner, Rainbow & Spoon Boutique, Oxford white linen dress, which
I will brighten up with a splash of yellow – my very favourite yellow vintage bag. It doesn't hold a lot so I am never without my trusty trolley, which is essential for carrying all those catalogues and a bottle of water.” —
108 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
DIRECTORY —
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110 WOMENSWEAR BUYER — AUGUST 2014
UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL —
MEG MATHEWS Having risen to fame as a socialite and rock-star wife in the 90s, Meg Mathews is now better known as an animal rights campaigner, and this season launches her first vegan handbag collection through Wilby. —
What inspired your move from show business into fashion design? I have always been creative and interested in fashion, so my collaboration with Wilby on a vegan handbag range was a natural progression. Most people, like me, would never dream of wearing fur, but a lot of people don’t know that leather is just as cruel. Every year, more than one billion animals are slaughtered in the global leather industry. There are so many luxurious animal-free fabrics to use that there is no need for animals to suffer for the sake of fashion. Why was Wilby your brand of choice? First of all, I love its bags. I also connect with the company motto by Mahatma Gandhi – “There is no beauty in the finest cloth if it makes hunger and unhappiness.” I would only work with a company knowing that no animals have been harmed. What has been your biggest challenge in creating your first collection? Making the edit for the collection was difficult as I had so many different vegan fabrics to choose from and so many design ideas. I think the end result is a chic, wearable and fun capsule collection. What has been your proudest moment? I worked with Mayfair nightclub Mahiki to introduce a permanent no-fur policy. Along with People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), I hosted a “fur-free and fabulous” party to celebrate the new policy. It was a huge success, and I can’t wait for another club to follow in their footsteps. Do you think consumers are becoming more ethically aware? Absolutely. PETA’s campaigns and undercover investigations show the public how animals suffer for the meat, fashion and other industries. For example, PETA US’ recent investigation into the wool industry showed workers killing, punching and stamping on sheep. Once you have seen the truth, it becomes impossible to justify not making the ethical choice and opting for a vegan lifestyle. You’ve designed jewellery and accessories – what’s in the pipeline for you? I am currently working at PETA as a celebrity liaison. I am always working on exciting vegan campaigns with celebrities as a way to communicate to the public that a vegan lifestyle is the way forward. It’s very important that we keep campaigning.
INSIDER: — Who is your style icon? Stella McCartney and Anne Hathaway are stylish and ethically minded, so I love seeing what they’re wearing. Stella’s a good friend and she also narrated a video for PETA about the leather industry, which I’d encourage everyone to watch. — Which fashion designer do you admire? Stella McCartney. It is amazing to see a designer with a global, high-fashion following who doesn’t feel the need to use animal skins. — What’s the best piece of advice you have been given? Go with your gut and stay true to your beliefs. I think it’s important to do what you care about. I have always been an animal lover and can’t bear to see animals hurt and exploited for their flesh – that is how I ended up getting in touch with PETA. — What’s the one fashion item you can’t live without? My bright yellow Wilby tote. —