MWB MAGAZINE JULY ISSUE 232

ISSUE 232 | JULY 2016 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SEASON TICKET A BUYERS’ GUIDE TO SPRING/ SUMMER 2017 LONDON’S CALLING WHAT TO EXPECT FROM THIS MONTH’S JACKET REQUIRED A MAN’S WORLD THE FIRST LOOK AT MODA GENT

SEE US AT MODA GENT 2016 7th – 9th August 2016 NEC, Birmingham Stand N30

THE PERFECT SUIT, FOR EVERY OCCASION KENNEDY & JOSS MIX ’N’ MATCH SUITS NOW IN STOCK

CONTACT JULIE OATES FOR MORE DETAILS

01132 402 211 SKOPESWHOLESALE.COM

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | CONTENTS | 05

F E A T U R E S 12

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

17

Buckle up

Profiling accessory label Elliot Rhodes

19

Streets Ahead

What’s next for London’s Seven Dials

20

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

27

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

32

In-season stock

In the navy

34

In-season stock

Lucky strike

36

Moda Gent

A first look at the latest signings

38

True Religion puts faith into Carnaby Street

Discovering the success of the US denim giant

42

London Collections Men

The most wearable trends to emerge for s/s 17

45

Jacket Required

The brands to catch at this month’s edition

51

Buyers’ Guide

Your comprehensive guide to the new season

62

Retailer Round-up

MWB goes to the shop floor to see how business is faring

67

Sweet dreams

Cyberjammies on entering the menswear market

68

Norwegian Rain breaks out

The latest step for the European brand

70

Pitti Uomo

The product that caught Tom Bottomley’s eye

72

Craft appeal

The success of Oxford independent Burrows and Hare

74

New kid on the block

MWB’s seasonal shoot

R E G U L A R S 7 8 22

Comment News Interview

Luis Gunn

84 87 90

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Mitchel Galvin-Farnol

Front cover:

Scotch & Soda 020 3137 3901

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | COMMENT | 07

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — W R I T E R Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

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Friday 24 June 2016. A day which will go down in history. A day when Britain decided to leave the European Union after 43 years. No-one knows the true extent of what will happen over the next five years, whether we will be better standing on our own, or whether a mistake was made, but one thing’s certain: it divided the nation.

— At 6.30am that morning when I think most UK voters arose to see what the news would be, social media was already awash with views from those in fashion industry. Some were angry, most were shocked. Our regular columnist Simon Carter, founder of the eponymous label, tweeted: “Ashamed to call myself British and unable to call myself European…”

As our main news story discusses this month, for the stability of our economy it’s paramount for the Government to now explain the process of disengagement. We spoke to a number of retailers this month, both taking a look at the season ahead but also on the outcome of the EU referendum.

Financial market volatility means prospects for UK businesses and market growth in this country look, at best, uncertain. These are small UK business which will be affected by the unstable economy. Yet we discovered a mixed bag of reactions.

Phil Goodfellow, co-owner of Northern Threads in South Shields explained his choice to vote Leave. “Where we are in the north east of the country, we don’t get a lot of benefit from being in it. Only Newcastle has benefited from investment up here. Also, as a small business I feel let down by David Cameron.

I’ve paid a hell of a lot in VAT this year alone, and if paying all that money, I don’t want a considerable amount going to Europe. I’d rather that money be spent on the NHS, the armed forces, the police force, and improving the high street and the local area. We need to be putting money back in our own country.”

On the other side of the fence, Cambridge independent retailer Giulio Cinque voted to stay within the EU. Although disappointed with the outcome, he aims to move on and make the best of it.

Whatever, your view is on this issue, there’s no arguing that in true British fashion, we’ll roll our sleeves up, move forward and deal with the months ahead.

I’d be really interested to hear your opinion on the outcome of the EU referendum so why not tweet the team at @mwbmagazine or drop me an email.

I hope the buying season is proving to be a successful one for you, and welcome to our July issue – your definitive guide to s/s 17, from what to expect at Jacket Required and Moda, to some of the product highlights for the new season.

Victoria Jackson Editor

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

SCOTCH & SODA APPOINTS NEW CFO

BUSINESSES URGE IMMEDIATE ACTION FOLLOWING BREXIT Following the news that Britain has voted to leave the European Union, alongside the resignation of Prime Minister David Cameron, the Government is being urged to move quickly to explain the process of disengagement from the EU. In a statement issued after the landmark result last month, the British Retail Consortium (BRC) insisted that keeping the cost of goods down for consumers and providing certainty for businesses must be at the heart of the plans for life outside of the EU. “In its exit negotiations the Government should aim to ensure that the trade benefits of the Single Market (i.e. the absence of custom duties) are replicated in the UK’s new relationship with the EU,” the BRC statement explains.

“However, it is important for us all to remember that, even if the Government serves notice to leave the EU tomorrow, the process of leaving will take a couple of years, during which time the UK remains a member and EU rules over free movement will continue to apply. Retailers will continue to focus on serving and delivering for their customers day in, day out in a highly competitive market as they do today.”

“In addition to goods traded with the EU, the Government will need to define the rules that will apply to goods traded with other countries. The BRC stands ready to advise them on this. The British public has opted to leave the EU and it is now up to the Government in conjunction with our EU neighbours to make the most of that decision.”

Mirroring this view is Carolyn Fairbairn, director general of the CBI, the UK’s leading employers’ organisation. “Many businesses will be concerned and need time to assess the implications. But they are used to dealing with challenge and change and we should be confident they will adapt.,” Fairbairn says. “The urgent priority now is to reassure the markets. We need strong and calm leadership from the Government, working with the Bank of England, to shore up confidence and stability in the economy.”

Responding to the announcements, Mike Cherry, National Chairman at the Federation of Small Businesses (FSB) says: “Nearly a quarter of FSB members export, with the majority exporting to the single market. Access to the single market means access to 500 million potential consumers, more than 26 million businesses and is worth 11 trillion euros. We call on the Government for clarity on the impact to smaller firms who export wider afield through EU FTA agreements.

“These are crucial questions that need to be answered swiftly to ensure the UK’s 5.5 million small businesses’ confidence does not fall any further, which is already at its lowest levels since 2013. This includes clarity over the practical implications of this result on how smaller firms do business. FSB will continue to be a constructive partner in any upcoming negotiations, ensuring the voice of smaller firms is heard loud and clear,” he adds.

—

Amsterdam fashion brand Scotch & Soda has appointed Geert van Iwaarden as its new chief financial officer. As a member of the management personnel, he will be responsible for the Finance & IT team.

Van Iwaarden joins the fashion brand from Unilever, where he has worked in various international roles since 1991. In his last position he was responsible as CFO for Unilever in Mexico & Greater Caribbean.

“Geert brings a wealth of financial experience to our company, and we are therefore very excited to have him on board”, says Scotch & Soda CEO Dirk-Jan Stoppelenburg.

The brand offers menswear, womenswear, childrenswear and homeware, and has over 150 stores and over 8,000 doors including the renowned global department stores and independents.

—

CHRISTOPHER KANE LAUNCHES E-COMMERCE British designer brand Christopher Kane has launched its first e-commerce website at the end of last month, creating a global online flagship store for the brand at www.christopherkane.com.

The launch of the e-commerce site follows the opening of Christopher Kane’s bricks-and-mortar flagship store in February 2015, and creates a further destination for customers to shop across all product classifications, offering a seamless omni-channel experience and interaction with the brand.

Christopher Kane partnered with Farfetch Black & White, the white-label solution from e-commerce name Farfetch, to create a strong technical build and functionality and completely customised brand experience, as well as offering key functionalities such as global shipping, multiple currencies and the future launch of multilingual sites.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | NEWS | 09

NEWS IN BRIEF

LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN TO BE RENAMED

JIM RICKEY UNVEILS PURPLE MENSWEAR COLLABORATION

London Collections Men (LCM) is set to be renamed London Fashion Week Men from next season, in an attempt to make the event more consumer facing.

The news of the rebrand, which was announced by the British Fashion Council on the fourth day of LCM, came as figures revealed the men’s clothing market is at the forefront of driving industry growth.

The BFC said that the change in name reflects the evolution of the event, now in its ninth season, from a two-day showcase to a four-day event.

“As fashion weeks change and our businesses start showing to consumers, we need to open our doors to more consumer-facing content, says Dylan Jones, London Collections Men chairman and editor of British GQ. “Over the next six months, London Collections: Men will embrace London Fashion Week Men’s as a title to better engage with a consumer audience.”

—

Swedish premium sneaker brand Jim Rickey, which entered the UK market for spring/summer 2016, kick-starts the new season with its collaboration with leading UK independent retailer, Purple Menswear, located in Harpenden.

With a unique take on the brand’s signature ZED style, the partnership sees the use of rich grey European suede and rose gold zips.

“We’ve had a great reaction to the brand in general but the collaboration has taken it to another level with requests from all over the world. The colourway and technical weather resistant suede emphases the importance of both brands,” explains Paul Monks, founder of Purple Menswear. “This has been a great way for Purple and Jim Rickey to build awareness for each brand in the UK whilst offering the customer something really unique with true value,” he adds.

—

GEOX APPOINTS NEW AGENTS

SEIDENSTICKER ANNOUNCES NEW BRAND STRATEGY

Geox, the Italian specialist for breathable technology, has appointed London agency Partners in Fashion as the UK and Ireland representative for its apparel division. The Geox outerwear collections will be handled by the multi-brand agency, with the focus on placing the label with leading womens and menswear independents.

The outdoor clothing collection builds on Geox’s trademarked breathability, with the brand having developed an exclusive line of outerwear styles that combine maximum body temperature regulation and maximum comfort. Retail price points range between £139 and £289, offering a mark-up of 2.75.

The brand will be showing from 4 July to 30 August at the London showroom as well as Moda Birmingham 7 to 9 August.

—

German shirt label Seidensticker has rebranded its complete collection in reaction to market feedback from both consumers and retailers. Former product lines Uno, Uno Super Slim, Schwarze Rose and Splendesto have been discontinued and will be replaced by a fit range of X-Slim, Slim, Tailored, Modern and Comfort.

“By restructuring the collection and eliminating the previous product lines, Seidensticker increases its investment in quality of fabrics and product details even further,” explains Frank Seidensticker, managing partner.

The realignment will also be visible in pricing structure as the brand focuses on three main retail price points.

The next year will also see Seidensticker launch a widespread media campaign, with a seven-digit investment in TV, digital and print advertising.

—

D’ALEMBI APPOINTS SALES MANAGER British sales agency D’Alembi has appointed Bill Corsi as sales manager with immediate effect. Corsi will be responsible for the sales of Ben Green Shirt, Benetti Clothing and a wide selection of D’Alembi clearance lines and can be contacted on +44 (0) 7714 743661 or via bill@corsi. freeserve.co.uk.

— BENETTON GROUP ACQUIRES BENETTON KOREA Italian Fashion house Benetton has acquired Benetton Korea as part of a reorganisation of its global structures.

The transition is part of the group’s refocus and relaunch programme, which aims to increase competitiveness and growth of its two brands: United Colors of Benetton and Sisley. With Benetton’s commercial presence currently concentrated in Seoul, Korea is a key market for the group. After India, South Korea is Benetton’s most important market outside of Italy, and it is hoped that the acquisition of Benetton Korea will aid expansion in the country.

— NEW OPENINGS FOR RETAIL DEVELOPMENT This summer, River Island and Peacocks will open within the 162,500 sq ft retail and leisure development Flemingate based in Beverley, Hull. The stores will bring a combined 17,000 sq ft of new brands to the centre, which already houses the likes of Debenhams, H&M, Wilkinson, Poundland, Trespass and Guest & Philips. Peacocks will open at the end of this month and have taken 7,100 sq ft of space, while River Island will occupy 10,066 sq ft and will open its doors in mid-August. The stores will sit adjacent to Debenhams and H&M. — SERENITY & GRACE EXPANDS OFFER Exclusive online department store Serenity and Grace has added a further 10 brands to its mix, taking the overall offer to 23.

Having launched five months ago, the store is continuing its rapid growth specialising in fashion, accessories and beauty brands with a focus on new and unknown labels at affordable prices.

— CONTINENTAL CLOTHING LAUNCHES FAIRTRADE RANGE Continental Clothing Company, one of Britain’s largest wholesale T-shirt manufacturers, is set to launch a new range of Fairtrade organic cotton T-shirts and hooded sweatshirts under its new label Fair Share. The collection is made from Fairtrade cotton grown by members of Pratima Agro Fairtrade co-operative in Orissa, India. The farmers are investing Fairtrade certification premiums in projects to enable women to build businesses and market goods so they have their own independent income. It is expected that Pratima will earn over £9,000 in Fairtrade Premiums per year on top of the Fairtrade price and organic premium thanks to the move.

— NEW SFEA RETAIL DISPLAY DIRECTORY OUT NOW The latest SDEA Retail Display Directory 2016/17 has been launched, showcasing over 100 manufacturers and suppliers of retail display and thousands of products and services for retail interiors.

Categories covered include shopfittings, displays, POS, POP, lighting, signage, visual merchandising and other retail services. To order a copy or more information call 01883 348911 or visit www.shopdisplay.org.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | NEWS | 10

NEWS IN BRIEF

BEST OF BRITANNIA RETURNS FOR FIFTH SEASON

STELLA MCCARTNEY LAUNCHES FIRST MENSWEAR COLLECTION

Best of Britannia (BoB) will return to London this year, in association with the Made in Britain campaign. For its fifth year, the initiative will bring together British labels across menswear, womenswear, childrenswear, footwear, accessories, cycling, motoring, food and home furnishings.

Menswear designer Patrick Grant is set to join BoB as an ambassador. “I am delighted to have been asked to become an ambassador for Best of Britannia,” says Grant. “I am passionate about raising awareness for the brilliant products proudly made here, which also sustain the industries and workforce they come from. Having launched my Community Clothing label at BoB North in Lancashire, I’m really looking forward to showing again at BoB London,” he adds.

The show will take place at Victoria House, London from 30 September–2 October 2016.

—

Stella McCartney has announced the launch of her first menswear collection under her eponymous brand label. The new collection will take a modern approach to menswear, encouraging seamless wardrobing, while adhering to the brand’s sustainable ethics.

Forgoing the usual runway show format, McCartney will reveal the collection at a special fashion presentation in London on 10 November, alongside her latest womenswear spring 2017 line.

The men’s collection will be sold to retailers in Paris at the newly relocated Stella McCartney Paris showroom in Saint-Germain des Pres. The range will include fur free and leather free apparel and accessories that will be available at select Stella McCartney stores, online at stellamccartney.com, as well as at key wholesale accounts worldwide.

—

RECORD-BREAKING EDITION OF PITTI UOMO

KEY NAMES SIGN TO HACKNEY WALK

The 90th edition of Pitti Uomo came to an end with attendance figures and feedback heralding another record-breaking edition, with a 2.5 per cent increase in total visitors year-on-year. Visitor attendance from the UK was up 18 per cent, while Chinese visitors showed a 14 per cent increase.

Italy continued on its path to recovery with a 3 per cent increase, with attendance figures gradually returning to what they were a number of seasons ago.

“It was a sizzling event with lots of new ideas bubbling among the stands and many new menswear projects were launched onto the international scene from the Fortezza da Basso,” says Raffaello Napoleone, CEO, Pitti Immagine. “The programme of events was even more special than usual, with big names in fashion, emerging talents and totally experimental designers,” he adds.

—

Five new signings have been added to the Hackney Walk retail portfolio, including London indie Present.

Other signings include footwear label UGG, Savile Row menswear label Gieves & Hawkes, luxury cashmere brand Colombo and accessories brand Folli Follie.

“Present is delighted to enter the new and prestigious off price opportunity at Hackney Walk,” says Ben Banks, retail director, Present. “The business will seek to represent well-known and iconic brands such as Woolrich, Stone Island and C.P Company, whilst referencing a curation of lesserknown discoveries from time to time.”

The latest signings will be located in the newly renovated Victorian railway arches that have been turned into 12 retail spaces designed by David Adjaye.

—

HOUSE OF FRASER APPOINTS NEW CCO House of Fraser has appointed David Walmsley as Chief Customer Officer.

Walmsley has over 20 years’ experience in the retail and digital space and most recently, was director at M&S Digital, with overall responsibility for Marks & Spencer’s global digital business unit, covering all aspects of its digital transformation. He joined M&S in 2011 from Dixons Retail Group, where he was Director of eCommerce. Prior to joining Dixons, he was Head of Web Selling and Customer Services for John Lewis, responsible for its online business. In his new role, Walmsley will be responsible for House of Fraser’s customer-centric approach, providing a single vision across all of the brand’s channels to market. He will report to Nigel Oddy, House of Fraser chief executive officer. A start date is yet to be announced.

— MARKET DEBUT FOR FOXGLOVE CLOTHING New UK T-shirt brand Foxglove Clothing has made its market debut, offering T-shirts with premium materials. The brand offers fashion independents the opportunity to label T-shirts under their boutique’s name, with T-shirts available in black, white and navy and sizes XS to XL. The shirts are manufactured in the UK and Italy and use predominantly modal and cotton mixes, with varying sleeve and neckline options available. For more information visit www.foxgloveclothing. com.

— SUCCESS FOR BANK100 NETWORKING EVENT Grooming label, Gruhme played host to some of the industry’s finest last month at the Bank100 networking event, in association with Bank Birmingham Restaurant & Bar. The evening showcased some of the best in authentic male brands, from fragrance to alcohol and clothing. Guest speaker Timothy Everest, who has dressed some of Hollywood’s finest, was on hand to talk about his career in menswear. Attendees enjoyed canapes and champagne from headline sponsor, Moët & Chandon, whilst being introduced to the latest Triumph from Triumph Birmingham, as well as experiencing being a passenger in a car from Morgan Motor Company.

— DEBENHAMS REPORTED TO BE OPENING AUSTRALIAN STORE Department store Debenhams is set to open its first store in Australia, according to The Australian Financial Review, however, the British chain has stated no official statement has been made on its Australian store plans. It has been reported that the retailer is set to open a 4,000 square metre store in the redeveloped St Collins Lane four-storey building in Melbourne, which is described as a “luxury fashion precinct,” with stores already including Coach, Sandro and Kooples. However, the department store chain isn’t making an official statement yet, instead placing focus back onto its franchise partnership with retail investment company Pepkor South East Asia Pty to enter the Australian market announced in October 2015.

—

GENT

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | ADVICE | 12

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: UPWARDLY MOBILE: BRINGING PERSONALISATION INTO THE STORE

RAJ PARMAR is Marketing Director at Box Technologies

In present-day retail environments, shoppers are creating their own in-store experiences. In doing so, not only can they undercut your prices and flirt with other brands, they can also do this without your knowledge via their smartphone.

To many fashion retailers right now, mobile is an uncontrollable beast.

Left to their own devices, consumers at the point of conversion can be diverted towards another product or retailer at the swipe of a screen.

In order to avoid this, fashion retailers must turn the mobile threat into an opportunity. The reason smartphones are so prevalent in physical shopping is because they provide information that the shelf edge cannot.

Therefore, if retailers can bring authority to that journey through their own mobile store technology, they can reap the benefits of a richer customer experience that increases transaction value.

Clienteling is a powerful way to bring digital capabilities into the store and make the bricks-and-mortar experience as personal as the service shoppers are becoming accustomed to online. By being granted access to customer data, store associates have the power to tailor their service around the customer – quite literally, if they are using mobile Point of Sale (POS) technology.

By joining the dots between what a shopper is doing online and instore, frontline staff can create interactions that are unique to the individual.

For example, storing their size and address on the system so that if an item is out of stock, it can easily be ordered for home delivery. Equally, if a customer clearly has a penchant for dresses or shirts, they can recommend new garments that these shoppers are likely to be interested in, based on their previous purchases.

Clientelling also has an extremely important role to play in customer loyalty, as store associates can recognise and reward high value shoppers. In addition to offering them exclusive incentives, mobile POS enables staff to attach those incentives to their online basket, process the order and take payment in a single interaction.

Ultimately, most shoppers use their mobile because online retail offers them a level of individual value that the store doesn’t always achieve. If retailers can use mobile technologies to increase personalisation, shoppers will be more satisfied and their basket size will increase; a win/win.

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WEB WATCH

WWW.FOCUSMANFASHION.COM Online menswear store Focus Man was established earlier this year by stylist SeanAzeer Bright. Created from Bright’s need for “something a little out of the ordinary, from brands you won’t find elsewhere”, the website has become a destination for those looking for niche clothing and accessories labels. Buyers can find the likes of Bash Bash, Falt, London Denim and Unself, with a contemporary, fashion forward vibe running throughout the site.

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NEWS

M-COMMERCE FUELS ‘COPYCAT SHOPPING’ Close to one in four UK shoppers (23 per cent) have purchased clothing on their mobile device this year according to a new survey carried out by ICM for Criteo, which questioned over 2,000 consumers on their shopping habits.

The research indicates that apparel is the most popular purchase made by mobile users, followed by music and film (16 per cent) and health and beauty (14 per cent).

Strong social media users were found to be the biggest mobile shoppers in the UK, according to the study, especially those between the age of 18 and 34. For example, only 17 per cent of respondents who did not use Facebook had ever made a purchase on a mobile device versus 35 percent who use Facebook daily. However, the most frequent mobile shoppers were found to use channels such as Snapchat (64 per cent) and Instagram (56 per cent), with daily users of Instagram being 113 per cent more likely to purchase apparel using a mobile device.

This phenomenon, known as ‘Copycat shopping’, is becoming more common and occurs when a social media user sees an item on a channel such as Instagram or Facebook and seeks it out, or a similar items, shortly afterwards. “Smartphones have transformed the retail industry in the UK. Our mobile is always by our side, meaning it is the one consistent factor in all elements of the online and offline shopping experience today,” said Jason Morse, Vice President, Mobile Products at Criteo.

However, in spite of the flexibility offered by mobile devices, the most common place UK consumers place an order is still at home. A third of UK consumers have made purchases in front of their TV (33 per cent), while 27 per cent said they bought something via m-commerce from the comfort of their own bed at night. “We can now see that shopping on mobile is becoming a daily routine for large sections of the population, suggesting that smartphones are creating greater emotional ties behind consumer and brand,” adds Morse. “In addition, these findings show that browsing Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest in front of the TV at night is driving the growth of mobile commerce, just as much as mobile’s innate portability.”

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | PROFILE | 17

BUCKLE UP Premium accessory brand Elliot Rhodes is challenging perceptions of the humble belt, putting it out there into the spotlight as an essential style and fashion item. And with great success, as the company’s growing wholesale base demonstrates. Isabella Griffiths caught up with director Nathan Diwan to find out its unique concept.

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There are few people in the industry who are more passionate about their product than Nathan Diwan, director at luxury belt brand Elliot Rhodes.

When WWB calls for a chat about the brand’s recent success, his enthusiasm for the business, the industry and the product is quite infectious. Just as well then, that he is in charge of the wholesale and retail development of the label, which currently runs three London stores and is stocked in around 30 premium boutiques in the UK, with plans to double this over the coming seasons and international expansion already under way, too.

Diwan is one of three directors of the accessory label, alongside his brother Jason, who is in charge of the financial side, and company founder and namesake Justin Elliot Rhodes, who established the brand back in 2004. The three men go back years, having been childhood friends since they met at boarding school in their early teens. Both families had ties to the fashion industry, and whilst initially they all went off to pursue other ventures, their professional paths crossed again when Nathan and his brother Jason decided to join their friend’s brand, initially as silent partners, and four years ago in a more prominent capacity to help grow it further.

“Justin had developed the whole concept of the brand, but it was obvious that the label had more potential than one man could manage on his own, so Jason and I came on board to help

NATHAN AND JASON DIWAN, JUSTIN ELLIOT RHODES

take the business that next level up,” says Diwan.

With three stores in London – Covent Garden, St Christopher’s Place and Chelsea – Elliot Rhodes launched a wholesale division three years ago, with expansion in international territories as far as Japan also afoot. The guys at Elliot Rhodes describe themselves as “old school retailers”: everything is geared around highquality service, product knowledge and impeccable quality. It’s a strategy that seems to

be working, as both the retail and the wholesale side are doing well, with Elliot Rhodes increasingly becoming the go-to brand for high quality belts.

The concept behind the brand is as simple as it’s effective: to offer a vast range of belt straps, matched with an equally staggering wealth of buckle designs, so that each belt becomes bespoke and unique to each individual customer.

“It’s our mission to turn belts into what scarves have become – key fashion statements, but also >>>

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | PROFILE | 18

essential accessories,” says Diwan. “Before Elliot Rhodes came along, there was a gap in the market for a premium belt brand. Belts have always been an after-thought, both for consumers and stores. But we wanted to come at it from a different angle and change those perceptions.

We wanted to prove that belts could become not only an essential accessory, but that a niche product like that could also become a successful retail business. And I think we’re proof of that,” he adds.

Walking into any of the three Elliot Rhodes stores in London, it’s easy to see why the gamble has paid off. Beautifully presented in a luxurious and ambient store environment, there are hundreds of belt straps and buckles on display – the brand is a unisex label offering around 140 straps and the same again on buckles at any given time, topped up with seasonal updates and retailing between £80 to £125, with dedicated style consultants helping to deliver the bespoke and personalised experience. Belts are measured and cut to each individual customer’s size instore, and the knowledgeable staff are on hand to answer any queries on leather qualities, design details etc. “We find that people want to be assisted, they want the service and they want to deal with staff who are knowledgeable and good at their job,” explains Diwan.

It’s not easy to replicate such a personal and high-end in-store experience, which is so driven by the passion of its directors – all three are very hands-on in the business and can be found at any of the stores at any given time – on a wholesale level, but Elliot Rhodes has achieved just that and has found a way of translating both the experience

“ Before Elliot Rhodes came along, there was a gap in the market for a premium belt brand. Belts have always been an after-thought, both for consumers and stores. But we wanted to come at it from a different angle and change those perceptions.”

and ethos of the brand and matching it with the needs of independent retailers. Diwan explains: “We are retailers, too; we understand retail. I think this is crucial in making this work on a wholesale basis and with independent stores.”

Depending on the size and nature of the shop, whether it’s a larger department store or small indie, Elliot Rhodes offers a flexible way of buying into the range. Belts can be purchased in the conventional way, with buckles already attached and available in a range of sizes, or retailers can buy into the more bespoke option and a tailored choice of individual straps in varying widths and leathers, as well as single buckles, which help emulate the personalised concept. Custom display boxes are offered alongside to help with stylish merchandising, and training videos and tutorials are available to teach retailers how to customise and re-size the belts in-store.

“We work with every single one of our accounts personally and make sure that we find a way of working and the stock that will perform in their store,” says Diwan. “We guide them through the bestsellers that we experience in our stores, the colourways, buckles etc, but it’s up to them whether they want to stock x amount of premade belts in varying sizes, or whether they want to go down the bespoke route and just keep x amount of separate buckles and straps.

“We understand the considerations of indies,

whether that’s space, stock management or budgets, so there are few minimums and top ups are available year-round.

They can always talk to us about how they want to work with us,” he adds.

Diwan admits that it’s not always easy to change perceptions and get retailers to consider buying belts, but once the conversation has started, most ‘get’ the brand.

“Of course we receive a lot of initial reactions like: ‘Belts?

Why would I buy belts?’, but we present the concept, who we are and what we offer, and then they can see that it could be working for them. At the end of the day, we are living proof that it’s working. We run three central London shops paying central London rates and rents, selling a niche product; that’s proof enough,” he offers.

“In our experience, once retailers try it, they discover that it can be a great additional revenue stream. And why wouldn’t it be? If a woman spends several hundreds of pounds on premium denim, why wouldn’t she want to invest in a bespoke, premium quality belt to finish that off?

The same for dresses – why wouldn’t a customer buy a nice skinny belt to accessorise that look?

The beauty of the Elliott Rhodes concept is that the customer can come back and buy a new buckle or a new strap, and have a completely different look for each outfit over and over again,” he adds. And you can’t argue with that.

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STREETS AHEAD Every retailer knows the importance of attractive visual merchandising and interior design in-store.

But what about outside of the shop? Charles Owen is portfolio executive at property firm Shaftesbury, which runs the successful Seven Dials shopping destination in London. Isabella Griffiths quizzes him about kerb appeal and how small, clever details can make a dramatic contribution to an inviting shopping environment – both in-store and across the whole street.

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Isabella Griffiths: How important is ‘kerb appeal’ for stores and shopping streets/destinations and why?

Charles Owen: Kerb appeal is a major part of the popularity of retailers and can affect dwell time significantly. It is essential for these successful stores to be part of a destination with a true identity, such as Seven Dials. Along with the retailers’ stores and designs, we have created an area within central London that has a local feel and can be enjoyed throughout the year. We regularly host free events for the residents, visitors and tourists to enjoy and which involve the retailers and restaurants, so everyone benefits.

The stores’ merchandising and windows are key to attracting the consumer and the right mix adds to destination appeal.

IG: How can this appeal be successfully and practically achieved?

CO: Many of our retailers have created different windows and external design to attract customers – examples include the newly opened Club Monaco, with flower baskets outside the store, and Fresh, the international skincare brand, which has its own white bike parked outside as a point of difference. Neal’s Yard includes flower boxes created by Seven Dials and made from recycled materials to create a bright and welcoming area surrounded by new restaurants and outdoor seating. Other retailers such as Monmouth Coffee and Finisterre have benches outside the store for customers to sit, enjoy a coffee and relax in between shopping, which gives Seven Dials a very continental feel.

This is all part of a deliberate strategy for Seven Dials, as we want to create a unique destination, with a wide variety of independent and international retailers within a village feel.

Shaftesbury work closely with The Seven Dials trust to also invest in the surrounding environment, including new bespoke lighting for the area, new Seven Dials signage and bollards painted with the Seven Dials logo, setting it apart from any other shopping destination in London.

IG: Does Seven Dials try to achieve a coherent aesthetic across all its retail residents?

CO: We work with individual retailers to create their store design specifically for Seven Dials, but it is important for stores to remain individual and we encourage unique concepts such as outdoor seating or props. Regular and exciting visual merchandising plays an important role and our retailers understand this and regularly update their displays. All the stores combined give Seven Dials a true unique feel.

IG: Have you noticed the coherent environment making a difference to sales figures and the success of the individual stores?

CO: Kerb appeal and store merchandising encourage people to stay and shop for longer, and this also includes the environment, which adds to the stores’ success. It’s very important to us that our retailers are successful; we work with brands from when they open and have an ongoing relationship to encourage exciting store design and advise on the Seven Dials consumer and what is appealing.

We offer support in terms of marketing and any launch events, plus take part in Seven Dials events and provide offers for guests, which has proven to be a success with all retailers involved.

IG: How can the ‘Seven Dials effect’ be achieved elsewhere?

CO: It’s essential to really know and understand your consumer in order to tailor the offer so it is appealing. It’s about creating the right mix of exciting retailers and dining brands which complement one another and also have something unique to showcase and give to the consumer in terms of experience. Most importantly, this is about continual change and improvements. In our case, these are initiated by Shaftesbury for Seven Dials as a location, but also by the retailers themselves, as this keeps the area and stores interesting and vibrant for the consumer.

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RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT Melissa Wheeler speaks to GARY TILLOTT, manager at menswear and womenswear store, Goddards, Kings Lynn.

KESTIN HARE OPENS SOHO STORE Scottish menswear label Kestin Hare has opened its second London store, to coincide with the launch of its new s/s 16 collection, A Bigger Splash.

The store is located in the midst of the vibrant Soho district, on Great Windmill Street next to the likes of Folk Clothing, Soho Radio and luxury boutique hotel Ham Yard Hotel.

The brand’s clean, contemporary aesthetic translates into the store interior with black and white washed furniture, sleek black fixtures and LED panel displays and signage.

Kestin Hare has experienced strong retail growth throughout 2015, with two stores in Scotland – the original Edinburgh store, and a brand new store on Princes Street, Glasgow. Last summer also saw the launch of the brand’s London flagship and showroom in Shoreditch.

The following 12 months will see the label continue to build upon its UK and international stockist base, which includes an impressive list of contemporary independents and high-end department stores such as Cloth, Psyche and Harvey Nichols.

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NEWS IN BRIEF WIN OR LOSE OPENS POP-UP STORE Menswear label Win or Lose launched its first pop-up shop at 7 The Shard Arcade, London, last month. "We chose the London Bridge neighbourhood for Win or Lose as there is a thriving business community which is great for our menswear range, plus our gifts are perfect for those looking for something fresh and original with a personal twist,” says Jonny Mitchell, managing director and founder. “We decided to open in the Retail Arcade at The Shard as there is strong customer footfall; it is great position for us to raise the awareness of Win or Lose as a new menswear brand."

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H&M TO SUPPORT 4,000 JOBS IN ETHIOPIA Swedish fashion retailer H&M is opening a new textile factory in Ethiopia, in collaboration with development financier Swedfund, owned by the Swedish state, and the industry group DBL, that will provide job opportunities for 4,000 people. H&M has pledged to support the new factory with its sustainable textile production knowledge, and to buy products from the factory for at least a set number of years, as well as ensuring that it has decent working conditions, creates jobs for women, and is considerate to the environment.

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It’s been an exciting six months for us at Goddards. After careful consideration, we went full steam ahead with a complete reorganisation to enhance the customer experience and create a more intuitive and contemporary shopping space.

Men’s tailoring and suit hire has moved upstairs to allow us to create a dedicated space where customers can spend time. We figured that this is very much a ‘destination’ purchase and merits its own space where customers can receive the level of attention and service which it deserves. This relocation has also enabled us to offer a wider selection of suits and jackets. We’ve installed a sofa, coffee table and larger fitting rooms to really make the area one in which to spend time and have a superior customer experience.

The market for tailoring has changed a lot, from our perspective. Today, 80-90 per cent of the tailoring we sell is for occasionwear, whereas previously it consisted mainly of business suits. The market for fashionable suits has soared and brought us a new generation of customer. It’s become an exciting sector with an injection of colours, sharp detailing and slimmer fits which appeal to a younger generation.

This season has been unprecedented in terms of the colour present across all menswear. Royal blue has been a popular palette and Ted Baker’s Sky Blue range has performed very strongly in occasionwear.

Casualwear has also shown an adventurous spirit with bright coloured trousers, bold printed shirts and clever detailing from linings through to pockets, collars, trims and cuffs.

We feel this is a positive platform upon which to launch into the next buying season as it reflects a growing confidence in menswear and among the consumer more generally. In advance of the buying shows, I will be scrutinising our sell-throughs and it will be fascinating to see the impact which our dramatic re-merchandising and improved customer experience has had on that. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

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SHOPPED: LIZARD What’s been performing well for you?

Scotch & Soda has probably been our strongest brand this season – it works really well in both stores for us. We got our buy with Oliver Spencer just right this summer too, and so despite it not being our biggest order, it’s had a good sell-through. Folk has been a good new addition, and we’ve had a good time with Monokel Eyewear.

— What issues have you had to deal with this summer season?

We actually went over budget a little this season, which always causes problems, and we are finding we’re a little stock heavy HENRY THREADINGHAM, given the time. The weather has had a really negative effect, MANAGER/BUYER, not to mention that some stores started Sales in mid June. It’s LIZARD, RICHMOND UPON THAMES AND far too soon in the season to be discounting product.

FARNHAM — Looking ahead at the new season, how confident are you?

I’m really happy with this winter’s product, as we kept our buy a lot tighter.

You can end up buying pieces you’re not really confident in just because it ticks the boxes. This time round, if we weren’t sure, we just left it out.

— What new brands or specific products will you be bringing in to the business to freshen things up?

We’re continuing to trade up and aren’t as scared of big price tags as we used to be. Introducing Matchless jackets was a turning point for us.

We’ve learnt that as long as the product is good enough, and not overly saturated within the market, our customer is happy to pay for it.

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IN FOCUS: AMERICAN CLASSICS 20 ENDELL STREET, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON WC2H 9BD

ESTABLISHED: 1981 BRANDS: LEVIS VINTAGE CLOTHING, BUZZ RICKSON, SUGAR CANE, BARACUTA, EASTMAN LEATHER CLOTHING, L.C KING, STETSON, RED WING, PIKE BROTHERS, PENDLETON, TODD SNYDER + CHAMPION, UNION 6, BROOKLYN CIRCUS, CHIPPEWA, NATIONAL ATHLETICS

KIT AND ACE TO LAUNCH IN SEVEN DIALS Seven Dials is set to welcome lifestyle label Kit and Ace to its current line-up of brands on Monmouth Street, in the heart of London’s West End. Opening on 14 July, the store will span more than 1,700 sq ft and will offer both menswear and womenswear.

Kit and Ace is a growing global brand, with nearly 60 locations across North America, Australia, the UK and Japan.

Founded in 2014 by Shannon and JJ Wilson, the brand offers technical apparel made from proprietary fabrics, like Technical Cashmere and Technical Silk, that performs for everyday wear.

"Seven Dials continues to flourish with the addition of modern, international fashion brands that are hard to find elsewhere in London,” says Sam Bain-Mollison, head of group retail strategy and letting at Shaftsbury. “Kit and Ace will be in great company among recently opened sportswear brand Ron Dorff, and the upcoming fitness destination, Another_Space, both of which are UK debuts.”

JJ Wilson, co-founder and head of brand at Kit and Ace adds, “We’re excited to open our fourth location in the UK, and our first permanent showroom in West London. Seven Dials has a great mix of retailers and is the perfect location for us.”

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NEWS IN BRIEF American Classics opened its doors on the Kings Road back in 1981, selling vintage clothing which attracted people from near and far. They bought bales of clothes from the US and opened them on arrival, not knowing what gems might be in there. There could be a few Levi’s type one jackets among 1940s and 50s selvedge denim by the bucket load. As this started to dry up, American Classics moved into selling vintage inspired reproductions, mainly produced in Japan and made to the same level of quality as the much sought after originals. The Covent Garden branch of the shop, at 20 Endell Street, is the one still here today.

In 2007 American Classics' founder Cavan Cooper retired and his son Adam and store manager Rachel Brickley-Williams took over the business. The store has seen many changes and many faces over the years. Its customers from the 1980s have grown up and matured with them, and are still regular visitors to the store, sometimes even with their children. This year marks the shop’s 35th anniversary and they still like to keep it classic, with timeless pieces. True quality never goes out of style, and the brands that American Classics proudly stocks prove this no end.

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TOMMY HILFIGER AND CALVIN KLEIN TO OPEN IN LEEDS US fashion retailers Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein are set to open stores in the £165m Victoria Gate development in Leeds, marking both their debuts in the city. Tommy Hilfiger will open a 253 sq m store on the ground floor, offering the brand’s menswear, womenswear and childrenswear as well as accessories and footwear ranges. Calvin Klein is set to open its debut dedicated Calvin Klein Underwear store, which will span 131 sq m, offering both its womenswear and menswear collections.

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INTERVIEW

LUIS GUNN With a new direction and clearer focus on its offer, Lyle & Scott is urging retailers to take a fresh look at what it’s now doing, as the brand’s Business Unit Director, Luis Gunn, tells Tom Bottomley.

— Tom Bottomley: Are you now actively encouraging retailers to take a new look at Lyle & Scott?

Luis Gunn: There’s a certain quality of customer that is now re-engaging with the brand. They are looking at it with a fresh pair of eyes and we’re having really positive dialogue with retailers again.

We showed at Pitti and genuinely wrote business, as opposed to just being there for the sake of it, obviously more so with Italian and international customers because of the nature of the show. It’s the first time we’ve shown there for over five years. I’ve been with the brand for four and a half years now, so it was my first time showing with Lyle & Scott at Pitti and I have to say it was very positive indeed. It felt right for us.

— TB: So what was the main appeal for retailers?

LG: We’re about craft and fabric and genuine expertise in something. We didn’t take the whole collection. We put out items that really talked to customers and put across the messages we are now giving – to innovate and bring something new, interesting, grown-up and with quality being key. It’s subtle, but there in the touch and the detail. And the buyers have responded to it.

Going back a couple of years, what we were doing probably wasn’t good enough, but we have been busy rectifying that. We also now have a genuine full footwear collection that’s interesting, modern and relevant, and that has also surprised a few people.

— TB: When did this new direction start to materialise?

LG: Two years ago we restructured the business.

That’s when we divided it in to different business sections and began the process. Out of that came the ‘Fitness’ line, obviously aimed at the fitness

BUSINESS UNIT DIRECTOR LYLE & SCOTT

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market, the ‘Golf’ collection and a clearer ‘Vintage’ line, the fashion end of the business. We also have the new ‘London’ collection, and then we have the footwear and accessories.

It’s all about progression. We know what we were great at a number of years ago, and people like to remind us of what we’ve done, but we still stand for those things. In fact we stand behind them with more conviction. We no longer say we’re just an innovative knitwear brand. We actually produce great quality knitwear. It’s not about simply reproducing what we were doing 20 years ago, though people do love what we were doing then. But they are buying it for what we are doing today. We’re looking at what’s relevant in the market and what’s relevant for Lyle & Scott.

— TB: Why did you launch the ‘Fitness’ collection?

And how has the ‘Vintage’ developed?

LG: Introducing the ‘Fitness’ line was all about an evolution of our consumer’s lifestyle and their journey with the brand. It was never a reaction to a sports trend. The development of the ‘Vintage’ range was about balancing the lifestyle of our consumer, introducing categories such as sweatshirts, shirts and jackets. So we’re no longer just the knitwear brand, or the polo shirt brand.

We’ve taken that and built upon it. In the last two years we’ve looked at putting real quality in to every single garment, not just knitwear. It’s also about giving our customers quality at the right price.

— TB: What is the ‘London’ line all about?

LG: The ‘London’ collection was introduced initially for s/s 16 for a number of reasons.

Historically where we’ve done collaborations and we’ve talked about other brands, my personal feeling was that we were always doing it and losing our own DNA and identity. It had almost become the collaborator versus the brand. So the intention of ‘London’ is that we know we can cater so far for our customer’s lifestyle. We are also aware that they have a need to dress more formally, or semi-formally, and they have a lifestyle beyond wanting our eagle logo to be present all the time.

The ‘London’ collection allows them to buy in to the brand, but dress for the occasion. They still buy it because they trust Lyle & Scott, and they know the quality and what they’re getting.

But they also know they can wear it in an environment that’s right for the garment.

The only time the eagle features in the ‘London’ collection is on the different internal back neck labels and swing tickets, which are white and tonal. There’s no external overt branding on the garments. We wanted the garments to be the talking and selling point, not the branding. Confident and understated. A lot of what we’ve been doing over the last two years has really been about getting our own house in order.

— TB: Are you now collaborating at all?

LG: We’ve done a partnership collaboration, as opposed to a brand collaboration, with the London Cloth Company who produce bespoke cloths woven in the capital. We’ve produced a jacket and shirt with them. And we did it because it talked to us, and it was about being British, manufacturing and quality.

Again it was about expertise in something, and it was about setting out our own stall and what we stand for. It’s a long-term plan for us, and it’s also about sustainability. Everything we do now is looking at the long term, to add equity to our brand and for our customer.

— TB: Are the ‘Vintage’ and ‘London’ collections targeting different customers?

LG: Both ranges target the same customer.

‘Vintage’ is more casual and more recognisable, but London is filling the gap in dressing for a more formal occasion. We set out to actively design great product with the 30+ customer in mind, addressing their requirement for functional style, quality and individuality.

In the last 12 months we have invested a significant amount in really understanding our customer and their lifestyle. This is not to say that we do not have younger or older customers. It is still integral to the brand’s longevity that we attract new customers, and I believe we are now doing a good job in that department, primarily through focusing on delivering great product, pricing and a consistency in brand message.

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TB: How is Lyle & Scott currently performing in the UK market?

LG: We are all very happy with the performance in the UK market. We work with some great progressive accounts and our organic growth has been extremely encouraging in the past 12 months. With the repositioning of our technical ‘Golf’ range, the newly introduced ‘Fitness’ collection and a refocused ‘Vintage’ and footwear business we are all very excited about the next few years. The product is genuinely better than it’s ever been and I believe that it is only getting better.

— TB: Is the UK still the strongest market for the brand? Where else is the brand performing well?

LG: The UK is still the strongest market for the brand and we intend for it to remain that way. We are proud of our home market and only have intentions to make it stronger in the coming years. Whilst we have a very successful business, we have not peaked yet.

Outside of the UK, we have a fantastic business in Scandinavia, with Sweden leading the way, and we have seen huge growth in both Germany and Italy in the last 18 months. The key to our recent success has simply been product and pricing, in what is a competitive and congested marketplace.

— TB: So would you say the brand is firmly back on track?

LG: Along the way I think something of a myth has been created with regards to Lyle & Scott’s diminished popularity. It is true that 10 years ago Lyle & Scott could sell anything, such was the popularity of the eagle logo. However, we are just as successful now, it’s just a different brand and business. As I said, the success of the brand is now not solely based on the popularity of a V-neck lambswool jumper or a polo shirt. We sell across a number of categories, and in the last 18 months we have seen outerwear, mid-layers and T-shirts all deliver double digit growth and become a significant part of our business.

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“ The UK is still the strongest market for the brand and we intend for it to remain that way.

We are proud of our home market and only have intentions to make it stronger in the coming years.”

160 YEARS IN THE MAKING B E A PA R T O F T H E M O S T E XC LU S I V E K N I T W E A R B R A N D F O R G E N E R AT I O N S A L I M I T E D N U M B E R O F R E TA I L L I S T I N G S A V A I L A B L E .

T O E N Q U I R E A B O U T B E C O M I N G A N E X C L U S I V E S T O C K I S T, C A L L + 4 4 ( 0 ) 1 4 8 4 8 4 8 4 3 4 O R E M A I L I N F O R M AT I O N @ S L A I T H. C O. U K

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P R O D U C T

INDUSTRY INSIDER A key player in the men’s outerwear category, Alpha Industries returns for the new season with a broad offer of collection favourites and brand new additions. For s/s 17, the brand has created new lightweight MA-1 bomber styles, featuring a pastel based colour palette which comprises silver pink, air blue, lemon, mint and apricot. These also feature tonal linings and the brand’s signature ‘Remove Before Flight’ tags. Updating its winter fabrications, Alpha Industries has produced lightweight options, including the new Iridium Nylon, while other new introductions include subtle camo prints used throughout. Finally, the s/s 17 season will see the collection expand to include sweats and T-shirts, which will feature the classic military styling that is synonymous with the brand.

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RADAR Spotlighting style

CAT’S EYE Cat Footwear celebrates 25 years of the iconic Colorado boot with the TW2NTY-FIV5 collection for a/w 16.

The brand will release a series of trend-led styles to celebrate the anniversary including a set of brightly coloured boots in eye-catching designs. Featuring matching uppers and soles, the boots are available across both men’s and women’s ranges.

Key colours include shades of citrus and red, while metallics and studded embellishment detail serve as standout design features. Muted hues of burgundy, black and golden are available in premium leather.

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LORD DOTTE ESTABLISHED: 2012 HISTORY: Lord Dotte was established by self-taught textile designer George Tyrone. It was created to provide alternatives to the traditional print patterns.

SIGNATURE STYLE: Bold and colourful interpretations of abstract ideas made into wearable prints using silk and cotton.

Aiming its collection of handkerchiefs, bags, scarves and pocket squares at the everyday man, Lord Dotte caters to its ideal customer, who is self-assured, confident and modern, through a range of products which present playful bursts of colour and luxurious silk materials. Previously, brand owner George Tyrone has used flowers, the typical English garden, Grayson Perry and the British weather as collection inspiration. Tyrone says, “I characterise my inspirations for Lord Dotte designs as terribly Brit-centric. Each season has its own obsessions, which inspire every aspect of the design process from colours to forms within the collections.”

For a/w 16, Lord Dotte aims to gradually move into the apparel sector by building on the unique style that is synonymous with the label. New fabrics, particularly wools, will be explored further within the collection. The brand will also expand its product offering to include ties and print shirts, and explore new markets, including Paris, New York and Asia.

Currently, Lord Dotte is stocked in London retailer Guards of London 1843 and online at www.lorddotte.com. Wholesale prices start at £10 for handkerchiefs.

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SUPPLY AND DEMAND Combining a contemporary monochrome aesthetic with subtle southwestern USA motifs, accessories brand Herschel Supply offers its Roswell Collection for s/s 16. Pieces include the brand’s signature backpack, duffle and pouch styles.

Available in white, black and navy with tonal geometric embroidery, styles come equipped with waterproof zippers and premium leather pulls with recessed herringbone detailing. Each piece is finished with the signature striped fabric liner and a tonal rendition of Herschel Supply’s classic woven label.

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PRODUCT NEWS

PEACE AND LOVE Taking inspiration from a hippie love-in at a village folk festival, Edwin features florals throughout its s/s 16 collection.

The brand includes classic summer pieces, updating them with a new appearance for the summer season. Bold colours and striking patterns are seen in the brand’s reworking of its Nimes shirt and Boardwalk shorts.

Meanwhile, the Baller bomber jacket style takes on additional subtle panelling.

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>>>

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

EFFORTLESSLY COOL 883 Police presents its Ego collection for a/w 16, which sees the brand take a fresh approach to casual clothing.

Overall, the collection image remains relaxed, featuring simplistic styling through a range of graphic T-shirts and heavy bomber jackets.

Collection pieces embody old-school swagger and a typical varsity player appearance, fused with modern day design features. The extensive collection offers T-shirts, sweatshirts, outerwear and polo shirts, while also including the brand’s signature denim offering.

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WOOLRICH X LOOPWHEELER The Woolrich x Loopwheeler collaboration presents a premium fleece sweatshirt made in Japan, with high collar zipper.

Produced using a combination of artisanal Japanese weaving and Woolrich wool, the sweatshirt is available in grey and blue.

Launched especially for the 90th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo last month, the collection is composed of 300 limited edition sweatshirts available at the Woolrich Store, Wp Stores and online at www.woolrich.eu.

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RADAR Spotlighting style

POWER COUPLE

VANS

British heritage brand Johnstons of Elgin has collaborated with the dressing gown manufacturer Daniel Hanson to create a luxury 100 per cent cashmere dressing gown.

The style will serve as an addition to the Johnstons of Elgin a/w 16 collection. A cashmere yarn is used on the piece, along with a handfinished silk jacquard lining.

The gowns are available in three different colours including light blue, navy and grey and are available in sizes S-XL. —

NEWS ESTABLISHED: 1966 HISTORY: Brothers Paul Van Doren and James Van Doren teamed up with Gordon Lee and Serge D’Elia to open the first Vans store in California under the name The Van Doren Rubber Company in 1966.

SIGNATURE STYLE: The brand’s deck shoe style, the Authentic, remains the key silhouette, though the style has adopted various patterns and prints that stray from the classic monochrome check through the years since its conception.

Established footwear label Vans needs no introduction, though its latest collaboration collection Vans x Nintendo presents an impressive array of animation artwork and prints.

The throwback collection offers an extensive collection of footwear, apparel and accessories that celebrate the early days of video games. Co-branded tees, backpacks, bags, socks and hats are also available in the classic prints and match with the footwear offering. The Graphic prints were produced using 8-bit inspired artwork and characters from classic video games including Super Mario Bros., Duck Hunt, Donkey Kong and The Legend of Zelda, as well as an assortment inspired by Nintendo’s first console, the Nintendo Entertainment System (NES). Four variations of the brand’s iconic Authentic slip on shoe style are presented in the mix, as well as the lace-free silhouette and the Classic Slip-On, which appears in the sneaker line-up. Meanwhile lace-up styles are trimmed with special details including Nintendo game logos on the tongue and NES controller lace caplets. To finish off the collection, Van’s classic waffle sole is printed with a Game Over! motif.

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A BLACK AND WHITE STORY LAUNCHES ITS SECOND COLLECTION Streetwear label A Black and White story has launched its second collection to date since making its debut in 2015. Presenting tonguein-cheek and empowering slogans through a range of apparel pieces, the brand’s s/s 16 collection, The Dictionary Collection, is made from high quality cotton and comprises luxe sweatshirts, tees, tanks, zip hoodies and joggers. Collection pieces present cultural messages which are in line with the brand’s mission to maintain equality and diversity regardless of gender, race, religion, beliefs, age or sexuality.

Definitions include ‘Chocolate; I could give it up, but I’m not a quitter’, ‘Mermaid; life’s a beach’, ‘Heroine; highly addictive female’ and ‘Baller; he who has made it to the big time’. Launched at the beginning of 2015, the label is stocked in Harvey Nichols, Colette Paris and Fenwicks, Bond Street.

Towards the end of 2016 the brand will move into Dubai, Canada and Japan and is expected to reach the US in 2017. ­—

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SCOTCH & SODA £94 020 3137 3901

SAMSOE + SAMSOE £80.80 020 3137 3901

REMUS UOMO PRICE ON REQUEST 0033 3456 7777

CAMEL ACTIVE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7736 0230

PAUL COSTELLOE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7224 1927

MAGEE £85 028 256 46211

HARRIS WHARF LONDON PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3227 4963

IN THE NAVY A blue blazer is something of a menswear staple now, designed to be worn within a full suit look, or teamed with denim or chinos in a much more seamless way than its black or grey counterpart. It’s also ideal for those who want to venture into the world of colour, without pushing the boundaries too far.

— Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

DIGEL £76 01283 576159

HACKETT LONDON PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3451 8273

CASUAL FRIDAY £26.16 0203 432 6387

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ORLEBAR BROWN PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3441 6289 VANS PRICE ON REQUEST 0800 234 6152

HUGO £33.30 020 3514 2096

LUCKY STRIKE Loose and easy, the bowling shirt personifies the retro 50s trend that’s been making its way through menswear this season. With a casual spread out collar, prints can be intricate, loud and proud or both. Merchandise over a signature white T-shirt and jeans.

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BLEND £13.20 020 3432 6387

LIBERTINE LIBERTINE £34 020 8983 5691

SOULSTAR £7.99 01623 756644

FARAH £22 020 7580 5838

SCOTCH & SODA £25 020 3137 3901

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

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MODA GENT 7-9 AUGUST, NEC BIRMINGHAM

Take a fresh look at Moda Gent this season, as the brand line-up evolves with a new generation of fashion labels for the contemporary sector.

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BLUE TIDE DML JEANS Offering a fresh take on staple denim, DML Jeans returns to Moda Gent with an extensive selection for spring. Vintage natural washes are key across a range of silhouettes, from basic five-pocket styles to more adventurous cuts. The brand also moves into stretch basics with the launch of its Selvedge capsule range.

— www.dmljeans.co.uk Stand J27

RAINSTAR New to Moda Gent and new to the trade, Rainstar is a foray into own-label menswear for established manufacturer Outstar. Having produced a range of high quality and high performance private label outerwear for over 15 years, the brand will launch its new venture Rainstar at Moda Gent, combining all of its expertise and experience with the accessible pricing structure of an own-label launch.

— www.outstaruk.com Stand P40

Bringing surfing vibes and beach culture to the spring edition of Moda Gent, Blue Tide is a new menswear brand with big aspirations. The launch targets a lifestyle consumer with little regard for age demographics, applying its sunny coastal attitude to a range of styles with a wide appeal. The brand pays maximum attention to fabric selection, fit and quality for an effortless range of casual menswear.

— www.oldguysruleuk.co.uk Stand P26

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JUNQ COUTURE New to Moda Gent this season, Junq Couture is a fresh new menswear label with a strong focus on contemporary trends. The high fashion streetwear label aims to remain one step ahead with a cutting-edge range of styles, and will develop its wholesale presence with its arrival at Moda Gent. The brand has already made a name for itself in the two years since its inception and will offer a range of limited edition pieces at this season’s show.

— www.junqcouture.co.uk Stand J51

BEN SHERMAN REGATTA Having made a successful debut within Moda’s new unisex area last season, Regatta will return this August with a new spring twist on its signature nautical identity. For men, crisp colourways are key, with pure brilliant white contrasting with cool blues and red colour pops for an on-trend collection designed in perfect harmony with ever-popular sailing influences.

Light outerwear is key within the range, targeting the festival and outdoor consumer alike for all aspects of spring lifestyles. ­ — www.regatta.com Stand P51

Ben Sherman makes its Moda Gent debut this season, arriving as part of the BMB stable. The iconic menswear brand will unveil a range of apparel for s/s 17, including the signature shirts which have become such a key part of its identity.

Established in 1963, the label has a wealth of heritage, having been embraced by the Mod culture of the 1960s before firmly establishing a place as an industry favourite.

— www.bmb-clothing.co.uk Stand M21

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TRUE RELIGION PUTS FAITH IN CARNABY STREET Los Angeles denim brand True Religion has just launched a brand new flagship and retail concept shop at 9 Carnaby Street, part of a fresh focus on the UK market where it is seeing growing success, as Tom Bottomley discovers from CEO John Ermatinger and chief product officer Rosella Giuliani.

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Best known for its jeans with big stitch detail, LA’s True Religion denim brand has put down a new – and striking – retail marker in London, with a brand new flagship on Carnaby Street.

To go alongside the launch, it has also launched a specific UK website to further enhance its presence on these shores, where it has seen great popularity. CEO John Ermatinger says: “The new Carnaby Street flagship shop is our first real premium location in the UK and it features our new store design and digital technology. It’s really quite special. It’s always been a trend driven location with lots of energy, so it’s a good fit for us. There’s a strong focus on denim brands, and we like the fact that it’s pedestrianised as there’s a lot of footfall.”

True Religion’s other stores in the UK are at Westfield in White City, Westfield in Stratford and another in the Bullring Shopping Centre in Birmingham. “Simultaneously, we have launched truereligion.com/uk as a digital complement to our freshly established presence in the UK marketplace,” adds Ermatinger.

The 2,505 sq ft location, at 9 Carnaby Street (formerly occupied by Hugo Boss with its Boss Orange line, and a great corner location which also leads in to Broadwick Street) is the brand’s first true international flagship store. “We’re extremely optimistic for it,” offers Ermatinger.

“There’s three windows on one side of the store, as well as the windows in the front. We’ve really opened the shop up and it not only shines a beautiful light on to the product, but it actually makes it look bigger than it is.”

The shop’s two floors of trading space are divided into menswear upstairs (around 60 per cent of the space) and women’s and children’s on the ground floor. “When the brand started out it was considered more of a women’s brand, with men’s making up about 30 per cent of sales, and women’s 70 per cent,” says Ermatinger. “But, over the course of time, it’s actually reversed, so in the US, and indeed in the UK, we’re now predominantly a men’s brand – 70/30 the other way. However, in other parts of Europe it’s more balanced at 50/50.”

Ermatinger says that True Religion’s wholesale market in the UK is currently strong.

“We have a very healthy business with Selfridges and Harrods,” he comments. “We feel that this market for us represents an opportunity to have a few of our own stores, while continuing to partner with other department stores. So we are looking to open further UK stores, either owned and operated by us, as with the new Carnaby Street shop, or joint ventures with the right retail partners, as we have done in Germany.”

According to Ermatinger, the UK is the brand’s second strongest market outside of the US. “When you look at the combination between our London operated locations, our partnerships with key department stores and now we will be online specifically for the UK market, we think we have the best combination of access for our customers. So it’s not only our second strongest market, it will probably get even stronger now with that mix.”

True Religion is a West Coast brand, of Los Angeles origin – Manhattan Beach to be more

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precise – that spread throughout the US, and also globally, with Japan catching on to it quickly. In the UK, the business has grown steadily but significantly, hence the new focus.

The brand was founded in 2002 by entrepreneur Jeff Lubell: “When he launched it, he was a groundbreaker and he had a real vision for the brand,” says Ermatinger. “It was quite aggressive in terms of the big stitch. An extreme version of how a jean is manufactured. He used a special piece of equipment that made the stitch actually pop out, so to speak.”

That was indeed Lubell’s own stamp, and it was what the brand became so well known for.

“He felt that the market needed something new and fresh, and he was right. He also said he was always inquisitive around making machines do something they weren’t designed to do. Adding the big stitch detail was his approach to customising manufacturing equipment so that those jeans could be made in a mass capacity.”

The big stitching is still very much a part of the brand’s DNA. Ermatinger says they call it the ‘Super T’, and the style remains today as one of the brand’s most coveted products. “There’s also the ‘Big T’. The difference is down to the count of thread that is used to do the stitch,” says chief product officer Rosella Giuliani, who was previously at Gap and 7 for All Mankind. “The ‘Super T’ is the extreme version of it, and the ‘Big T’ is the more subtle version.”

The business grew significantly over the years and in 2013 TowerBrook Capital Partners, a private equity company from New York, purchased the brand directly from Jeff Lubell in a transaction valued at approximately $824m.

“Jeff’s doing quite well I believe!” jokes Ermatinger, who took over as CEO in June 2015.

Of the takeover and why TowerBrook were

“ The new Carnaby Street flagship shop is our first real premium location in the UK and it features our new store design and digital technology. It’s really quite special.”

willing to part with so much money for the brand, Giuliani explains: “From the very beginning True Religion offered something that nobody else did.

While a lot of the other denim brands all looked the same, True Religion really stood for something. It stood out and had a big and loyal following. It also had over 150 own-brand stores in the US.” Well that would certainly have something to do with it then; nothing like a healthy collection of real estate to tempt the private equity companies.

Product-wise going forward, the signature products such as the ‘Super T’ will remain a key category for the brand, and there are many different versions of it, in varying fabrics and finishes. But now Giuliani points to the ‘Super Stretch’ as being a growth area, particularly in the UK. “That is now really strong in the UK specifically with men,” she says. There are two different fits in it, and a variety of washes and colours. ‘Super Stretch’ is already well established in the women’s business, complemented by the launch of a product called the ‘Runway Legging’.

Both address the new comfort factor that’s in the market now, while still being very much about denim in nature and feel. In addition, the Moto style for both men and women, which is very similar to a biker-style jean, has again proved to be a winner.

Aside from jeans in various styles and treatments, True Religion, of course, does everything needed to wear with them. Hoodies are apparently another strong category, as well as graphic T-shirts, sweatshirts and outerwear.

“Things that are really easy to pair back to denim,” adds Giuliani. “In terms of the denim itself I think

there’s a real artisan and craftsmanship feel coming back in to the market, and how you make things feel a little bit more unique. That plays to our strengths, and you’ll definitely be seeing some more of that from us. Where the jean doesn’t look like it was just manufactured and put in a stack, but it feels more like it was taken care of and added to – either whether it’s an embellishment, a special wash or a special trim.

We’ll be really focused on all the details.”

Price-wise, True Religion jeans sell at between £149-£399, depending on the construction, wash and embellishment. The sweatpants currently sell between £115-£145, and graphic T-shirts generally retail between £54-£79.

So the prices are perhaps more premium than many people who are not in the know about the brand may expect.

The new retail concept on Carnaby Street is centred around a reinvention of the brand’s iconic denim bar showcasing the latest styles for men and women. The two-level location will appeal to savvy, digitally connected consumers through an omni-channel approach. The brand aims to merge the benefits of e-commerce with the in-store shopping experience, with less product on the sales floor and digital support through iPads and touch screens, as well as the new ‘Band’ technology to access product from around the world. It’s all very high tech retail. The store is also purposely designed to be a more intimate space than most of True Religion’s flagship locations elsewhere, and it’s a significant marker in terms of what we will see from the brand at retail in the future.

M O N D AY 8 T H A U G U S T Join us at The Highline, the fabulous new bar and dining experience at Resorts World, Birmingham for the most glamorous Moda Party so far. The Highline is just a short walk from the Moda halls and we’ll have drinks waiting for you from 7pm. Book your place now!

To book your tickets contact Grace Marsh on +44 (0)1484 848328 or grace.marsh@moda-uk.co.uk

LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN

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TURNBULL & ASSER

E TAUTZ

MACKINTOSH

HARDY AIMES

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

HOME OF HOMME

CMMN SWDN

BOY BY BOY LONDON

The final season under the London Collections Men name, the biannual designer platform welcomed a mix of both domestic and international press, bloggers and buyers to its s/s 17 offering.

MWB was on hand to discover the more commercial trends to emerge for the new season.

— AGI & SAM

BLOOD BROTHERS

BLUES CLUB

MODERN MONOCHROME

Shades of blue dominated the catwalks this season, spanning tailoring, casual and streetwear. At the sharper end of the scale, Turnbull & Asser presented slick, horizontal pinstriped double breasted blazers, whilst Agi & Sam showcased a blue paisley printed trouser suit. Both Christopher Raeburn and E. Tautz, meanwhile, went with tailored short and blouson jackets in a range of tonal blues. And finally, new label Home of Homme highlighted its use of blue, with a chevron print jersey tracksuit and co-ordinating headwear.

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Hardly groundbreaking, but stylish all the same, monochrome prints could be spotted throughout London Collections Men this season.

Kicking off with Blood Brothers, who presented a black and white tartan blazer, complete with raw edge finishing, the trend then translated through to outerwear spotted at CMMN SWDN and Hardy Aimes – both of which chose a traditional monochrome check. BOY, the premium subdivision of BOY London, meanwhile went with all-over graphic prints, whilst horizontal stripes added a modern element to Mackintosh’s signature silhouette.

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PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

AGI & SAM

TIGER OF SWEDEN

QUASIMI

TURNBULL & ASSER

YMC

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

COACH

OLIVER SPENCER

MATTHEW MILLER

RICHARD JAMES

E TAUTZ

MATTHEW MILLER

LOU DALTON

KATIE EARY

ADORNMENT

TOP OF THE CLASS

TOURIST TRAIL

Not the most commercial trend admittedly, but with jewellery such as watches, rings and necklaces becoming key outfit additions, it really was only a matter of time before brooches were added to the menu. Christopher Shannon presented knotted rope woven circles, whilst Agi & Sam utilised vintage inspired cameo brooches.

Moving towards a more punk inspired influence, the likes of Coach, Matthew Miller and, surprisingly, Pringle of Scotland, embellished runway pieces with collections of pin badges.

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Catering for the predictable three-day summer the UK experiences each year, lightweight, weather proof top coats are now a wardrobe must-have. Designers definitely caught on to this for s/s 17, with the likes of Lou Dalton coming up with a drop-shoulder tailored option, while Tiger of Sweden went for a more structured silhouette and British designer Oliver Spencer played it safe with a wearable khaki number. On the lighter end of the colour spectrum, both Matthew Miller and Quasimi went for more camel and nude options, both designed to be layered tone on tone with a neutral palette.

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The Riviera trend, although popular for many seasons now, has returned with a vengeance for s/s 17. YMC went for a vintage Riviera look, with a wool-mix trouser suit, teamed with a classic red and white Breton tee. Richard James, meanwhile, chose a casual layered style, concentrating on loose silhouettes and a pastel colour palette.

E. Tautz chose a more tailored beach to bar look, with drawstring unlined tailored shorts and polo shirt, which was mirrored at Turnbull & Asser with its more luxe take on the trend. Finally, Katie Eary presented an under the sea inspired silk short suit in her signature innovative prints.

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JACKET REQUIRED London’s finest menswear show comes to town once again on July 27 and 28 at the Old Truman Brewery.

Always offering up a premium selection of clothing, footwear and accessories from some of the finest brands around, here’s a little taster of what will be there this time.

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KAPPA Kappa Heritage is a premium apparel collection, using innovative materials and trims adorned with the Kappa authentic logo, and inspired by the brand’s rich football heritage in its 100th year. Fusing archival designs with current sports-fashion trends, Kappa brings a modern day twist to traditional football silhouettes. Coupled with influences from Eastern European soccer terraces, the collection has a truly cosmopolitan feel. Included in the range is Kappa’s band taping trims, brought to life using metallic yarns and reflective piping and adding a nostalgic touch.

Calzificio Torinese (the original brand name) was founded in 1916 as a sock manufacturing business and only became known as Kappa in 1956 when customers in Germany returned a batch of faulty goods. In order to guarantee future quality, the monogram K (for Kontrol in German, but Kappa in the Italian alphabet) was stamped on the product. Kappa’s British rebirth is the result of the successes of SFD UK, its British licensee, who are working closely with selected UK retailers to breathe new life into the brand.

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LEVI’S MADE & CRAFTED Sitting at the top end of the Levi’s offer, the designers of Made & Crafted have looked to 1950s Cuba for design inspiration for its s/s 17 collection. Think revolution, Fidel Castro and Che Guevara and you’re on the right tip.

Tailoring of a well worn uniform is paired with a classic embroidered and pintucked Guayabera shirt in vibrant colours. The mood of 1950s Havana is evoked through soft, tailored utility garments teamed with tropical floral prints, and fatigue khakis together with hibiscus red shirting. Denim is lightweight, with touches of repair and panelling detail.

Crisp cottons and cotton/linen/silk blend fabrics also feature.

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G.H.BASS & CO. For spring/summer 2017 G.H. Bass & Co. revisits its archive that spans over 160 years, reinterpreting shoes by exploring experimental fabrics and materials on classic G.H. Bass & Co. silhouettes.

The ‘Camp’ moccasin shoe is given a sports and performance treatment in breathable fabrics, lightweight EVA outsoles and memory foam footbeds. The ‘Moc Driver’ makes its debut for the season in three upper variations. Like all G.H. Bass & Co. moccasins, the new lines are hand stitched on the upper – a process that takes up to 40 minutes per shoe.

The new ‘Moc Knit’ offers a knitted fabric alternative found typically on sports sneakers, maintaining the classic Bass moccasin silhouette with updated features. The ‘Scout II’ pays homage to Native American craft with a Huarache woven apron in nubuck leather.

The core of the G.H. Bass & Co. brand is of course the ‘Weejuns’ and this s/s 17 is no exception. Still hand-sewn on the last, ‘Weejuns’ continue through the line with the addition of new design details such as contrasting leather shades and all new suede colours.

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NICHOLAS DEAKINS For s/s 17 at Nicholas Deakins, ballistic nylon and suede trainers will feature alongside the classic silhouettes of the desert boot, moccasins and boat shoes. The brand’s apparel continues with a full head to toe offer which includes an unstructured cotton and nylon mix blazer in washed khaki, black and midnight blue. A capsule range in towelling features a full fitted tracksuit, shorts, polo and crew neck tee.

Nicholas Deakins teamed up with outdoors brand Peter Storm on a capsule collection for a/w 16 consisting of a water resistant trainer inspired technical boot and a take on the classic Peter Storm waterproof jacket with taped seams and funnel neck. Moving forward, s/s17 sees a lightweight packable festival mac with taped seams in washed green, navy and royal blue, alongside an evolution of last season’s technical trainer in petrol, sand and optic white.

Key pieces in the main Nicholas Deakins clothing line include the new ‘Firm’ style, which is a lightweight zip-through jacket with button-down collar in technical crinkle nylon with a military feel. Nicholas Deakins celebrates its 25th anniversary this autumn/winter 16.

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NIXON A welcome new addition to Jacket Required, Nixon is bringing its very classy looking ‘Speedster II’ collection to the show, inspired by the classic palette and sophisticated style of 1960s sports cars inspires. Cream dials feature on its new watches, with gold accents and tan leather creating a look of California luxury that’s ‘on point’ in any decade. Nixon, which now boasts two London stores – one at 6 Newburgh Street and the other at 31 Neal Street in Covent Garden – has two major drops within the season, with multiple releases and mini collections throughout, all of which will be revealed at Jacket Required.

Founded in 1998, in Encinitas, California, Nixon is the premium watch and accessories brand for the youth lifestyle market. Beginning with a small line of team-designed, custombuilt watches sold exclusively in specialty boardsport and fashion retailers, it is currently distributed in over 90 countries. Nixon’s product range has grown to include select soft goods, leather goods and custom made products.

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BROOKS

HOMECORE

The Brooks Heritage collection celebrates its rich history by paying tribute to the classic footwear that catapulted Brooks into the running boom of the 1970s. Inspired by these deep roots, the brand looks to the past to honour its origins and elevate the future, using luxurious materials and detailed craftsmanship. The specially curated collections evolve season to season, weaving together modern style with authentic design to create iconic shoes that go beyond the run.

For 2017 you can expect to see a bigger presence from Brooks in the UK, with the focus on the ‘Heritage Court Tennis’ collection. This collection looks to the brand’s 100-year past, celebrating styles from the court to the country club. Brooks is bringing back the shoe worn by Jimmy Connors when he won Wimbledon in 1975.

Staying true to its vintage character, it is inspired by the racquets and preppy colours of that era.

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Designer Alexandre Guarneri created Homecore back in 1992, the first clothing brand related to hip-hop in France. Initially focused on streetwear, the label has since changed significantly without turning its back on its principles, with a range of clothes as practical as they are on-trend. It’s just a grown up version of its former self, and all the better for it, offering functional and very wearable clothing. For s/s 17 the brand uses merino wools, silk, linen, hemp and denim. Shirting comes in fine Italian cotton and brushed poplins. The collection includes T-shirts, polo shirts, knitwear, bomber jackets, denim jogger pants and chino shorts.

Colours span several hues of blue, from baby to navy. Highlights of yellow and orange lift staple pieces to a new level. A great signing for Jacket Required.

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MERC Merc celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2017, in honour of which they are releasing a limited edition black Harrington with a punk inspired print in the lining.

With exclusive trims and details not seen on the regular Harrington, it’s priced at £45 for £120 retail. The overall look and style of the new s/s17 collection comes from the peak of 1960s England, with smart jackets and trousers, and slim silhouettes mixed with retro style knitwear and paisley and check buttondown shirts. The clothing is smart and slim yet comfortable, with reference to work wear. Austere utility styled cottons and functional technical fabrications feature. Mod style outerwear includes an M65style jacket with tartan trims. Representing 60s retro styling, there’s long collar point shirts (very Paul Weller) in bold paisley, and vertical striped fabric polo shirts with repeated scooter print. A Union Jack patterned knitted jumper will have you reaching for your The Who albums once again.

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ELLIOT RHODES Another first showing at Jacket Required, in its 10 year history Elliot Rhodes has achieved widespread acclaim for its diverse and individual offering of high quality belts and buckles in every colour or design imaginable.

Having achieved huge success with its belt selection, Elliot Rhodes has also now ventured into coordinating accessories.

This latest launch is a turning point for the brand as it diversifies its designs to include stylish travel wallets, key holders and foldover card holders, all with striking contrasts of leather colours and textures from interior to exterior. Each of the new accessories is above all designed to be practical, with countless hours spent trialling products. Both the card holders and the key holders have also been cleverly crafted to ensure a discreet slimline design that will slide into the pocket of even the skinniest trouser styles.

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KEEN p

LUKE Luke has expanded its fabrication developments under the ‘Tech-Unique’ umbrella allowing a greater depth of mixed fabrication and technical qualities through the collection. The ‘Made in the UK’ range is also expanded to include shirting and a ‘Made in London’ element. The ‘Luke Sport’ collection sees a new branding development and a much expanded collection, following the success of the past two seasons. The footwear range has also grown, with a cleaner, dressed up range giving something extra to the overall collection. A Luke ‘Relaxed Fit’ collection is also being introduced that will run through a jersey and sweat theme to include long line and looser fits.

There are also several collaborations in the pipeline including one with Brotherhood, the third part of Noel Clarke’s film trilogy which includes Kidulthood and Adulthood. The capsule collection runs through a jersey and accessories program and is adorned with the collaboration branding. Luke celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, starting with a party at its relocated Cardiff store – now double the size. There will also be a brand birthday celebration at Luke’s Leicester store, which is itself turning five years old.

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Founded in 2003 by Martin Keen and Rory Fuerst, in Alameda, California, Keen is an American shoe manufacturing company, now based in Portland, Oregon. Its products are rooted in outdoors, walking, running and water sports, with a cult status reputation born from its original ‘NewPort Closed Toe Sandal’ style. It has gained a place as a leader in real American outdoors footwear culture.

For the first time, stepping out into the ‘Inspirational Lifestyle’ category, Keen is releasing the ‘Uneek 02’ shoe for the coming season. It’s another Jacket Required debut, being shown

by The Butler Company, which will also be showing the excellent Chippewa Made In USA footwear collection.

The ‘Uneek 02’ will be available at selected UK retailers from spring 2017, retailing at £70. It’s all about the comfort, an ultra flexible sole unit and a perfect fit on the foot. So much so that co-founder Fuerst says: “When you put them on it doesn’t feel like you actually have anything on your feet.” Sounds like a festival hit for summer 2017.

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ETON

BUYERS’ GUIDE MWB’S COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO SPRING/SUMMER 2017 >>>

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A MODERN ESSENTIAL From field jackets, to bombers and blousons, a lightweight jacket is an essential in any spring wardrobe. A key name in the outerwear sector, S4, presents a comprehensive collection of layering options this season, in a range of cotton satin, matt-coated cotton and cotton twill.

Inner linings are dominated by jersey or light mesh fabric. Colours are on the light side but remain bold with salsa red, leaf green and regatta blue placed next to more traditional shades of navy, stone and stone. The blouson is the focus of the collection for German label Benvenuto Purple, available in both jersey and nylon, with a clean, casual design to offer a more relaxed option to suiting. Bomber and cropped field jackets, meanwhile, are on the menu at Camel Active. Nylon makes garments lightweight to wear, while bomber jackets are given a sporty twist with extra wide ribbing, and jersey applications. This is mirrored over at outerwear specialist Jupiter, with a collection which excels with light memory qualities and mini rip-stop structures. The new season will also see the brand introduce Air – a new segment within the sports collection which is made up of a blouson, parka jacket and coat in a light membrane, and minimal detail. Leather pieces have been developed in shades such as yellow, sand and soft moss green, while leather biker styles continue to be a focus for the Carl Gross Black Line this season. Following suit is Digel, the German tailoring label, where fabrication is central to the new offering. Buyers can expect to find jackets in a wide range of knitted and woven jersey, some completely deconstructed and featuring innovative hems, alongside soft linen, one of the biggest stories for the brand this season. Nagano, meanwhile, takes inspiration from a kamikaze mission, with classic flight and bomber jackets, reinterpreted for the modern day with stone washed nylons and cotton nylons, waxed and tumbled. Colour palettes comprise olive, navy, camel, red, green and orange. Flexibility, lightness and a smart, modern all-day look is the focus at Bugatti this season, with a jacket collection comprising four concepts – Tailored: sophisticated jackets, in semi-classic soft tailoring; Jersey: smart functional jackets in stretchable fabrics; Lightweight: unconstructed jackets similar to cardigans and finally Sports: basic styles with stretch qualities.

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CARL GROSS BLACK LINE

02 BUGATTI 03 NAGANO 04 S4 05 DIGEL 06 JUPITER 07

BENVENUTO PURPLE LABEL

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FLEX & STRETCH Translating over from last season, drawstring bottoms are spotted across the board this spring/summer. The jog’n jeans segment of trouser specialist Mac has been expanded to 12 colours, while the hyper-stretch denim – Macflexx – has quickly become established with retailers since its launch last season, and will be presented in 14 new washes. These two combined have created Jog’n Flex – a jogging bottom with up to 80 per cent elasticity. The Athleisure segment of Atelier Gardeur, meanwhile, features denim jogging pants in imitation jersey and are now joined by a cotton variation in three colours. The jeans look is combined with five-pocket styles and drawstring flat-fronts. Bugatti follows suit, offering high stretch comfort thanks to FX/T400 dual yarns which come as bi-stretch hybrid denim or crossstretch hybrid broken twill. A key style includes draw-cord trousers, either with five pockets and flat-front body, with or without stitched hem finish in cold-dyed or denim. This is mirrored at Alberto, where drawstring detailing updates the collection’s Cotton category, with a broken twill look and contrasting minimalist patterns designed to accentuate its casual look. To round off the Flex & Stretch trend, Benvenuto Purple continues to strengthen the success of its ‘sneaker suit’ which has been re-interpreted in a light summer jersey, and features formal designs printed on to suggest a rich, luxe effect.

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COLOUR THEORY Call it a cliche, but a ‘pop of colour’ aptly describes one of the key trouser trends for s/s 17. Summer shades can be spotted across the board, from younger, trend-led collections to the more mainstream labels. Mac, for example, looks to the vibrant city of Miami for its latest offering, utilising pastel shades to reflect an international attitude towards fashion. Moving from the East Coast to the Cote d’Azur, the new Meyer collection arrives in a series of pale summer appropriate shades, across both its trouser range and Bermudas, available in soft pima cotton or summery linen. German tailoring label Benvenuto mirrors the trend for light pastel hues, focusing on minimal prints on garment dyes – the key silhouette being the chino, with a double loop coin pocket in the pocket opening, piped side seams, buttons in a mother-of-pearl finish and pocket lining, repeating the lining of matching jackets. Trouser specialist Alberto, meanwhile, presents a crossover of minimalistic designs to solid coloured and all-over prints. Key styles include cropped and body-con Superfits in denim and cotton, alongside smart tennis and biker styles. Fabrication is a focus for lifestyle label Bugatti this season, with printed fabrics to create a natural 3D look, similar to that of woven designs. These are backed up by the brand’s new soft-coated pigment dyes which wash out subtly. Over at Digel’s sub-line, Digel Move, silhouettes takes centre stage, as the classic slim-fitting style is juxtaposed with looser fit styles, complete with pleats. Cotton stretch gabardine is the material choice, in a plain finish or with tonal grey mini-prints. The extra-slim fit chino, meanwhile, comes in plain cotton stretch gabardine, and a very fine, faded canvas finish with a faint metallic sheen. While colour is the order of the day at the Carl Gross Black Line, the brand’s premium sister label, it doesn’t stray too far from more traditional shades, such as olive green, designed to be worn with a series of mix and match blazers and shirting options. Finally, Bruhl, alongside younger sister label, Bruhl Bros, continues to strengthen its position in the menswear market, offering a wide variety of styles where comfort and function is paramount. The highlight of the s/s 17 collection is the new CoolFlex technology – which offers temperature regulation as well as high stretch for ease of movement.

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07 ALBERTO 08 BRUHL

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | TRENDS | 59

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BOLD MOVES For the brave and the bold, this season’s shirting offer has everything you would hope for – eye-catching prints, bright hues and contrasts a-plenty. Seidensticker moves into the new season with a newly streamlined collection, offering five fits for every body shape. The colours for the coming season are fresh and uplifting, with rose, apricot, peach, turquoise, lemon, tobacco and grey all making an appearance.

Stripes, meanwhile, make a return in block stripes or gradient stripes in stylish colour combinations. This trend is mirrored at Eterna, who not only offers a selection of premium high quality fabrics, but integrated the runway trends for stripes and graphic prints into its signature collection of business and casual shirts. The continuing strong trend for prints has certainly influenced the latest collection from Pure, with floral and geometric designs, next to small butterfly motifs on a white background. Olymp’s s/s 17 collection, meanwhile, is characterised by the latest fade out designs, with a slightly more subdued appearance in washed green and aqua tones sitting with gentle light blue – as the brand describes it, “surf and long-board culture grown up.” Finally, Venti offers interesting mini patterns and plain structures in changing weave, captured in a new grid style fabric finish. New tailoring techniques on the inner collar, button board and cuff update the complete collection for the new season.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | NEW LABELS | 60

HIT LIST Spurred on by the growing menswear market, s/s 17 sees an influx of new and returning labels you may be unfamilar with designed to whet your buying appetite. MWB highlights six to watch this season.

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MR QUINTESSENTIAL Launching in the autumn of last year, premium knitwear label Mr Quintessential is the brainchild of Simon Jacobs. “The brand was born out of the idea that many things in my wardrobe looked immature for my years,” says Jacobs. “I like looks like that are edgy and classic, and felt that a huge audience out there wanted the same, but didn’t have the product available to them.”

Offering a range of classic crew and v-neck jumpers, as well as shawl-neck cardigans, the brand experiments with different blends of fabrications each season, including silk and cashmere, cotton, silk and cashmere, linen and silk, and of course, Mr Quintessential’s signature look – Mongolian cashmere.

With a season under his belt, Jacobs is looking towards the next 12 months which will see the launch of loungewear, designed to be worn at home, or to travel in, as well as the unveiling of a personalisation service, where customers will be able to monogram scarves, hats and potentially cuffs on jumpers.

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FAIRFAX & FAVOR Designed to shake up the premium footwear market, Fairfax & Favor is a British brand founded by childhood friends Marcus Fairfax Fountaine and Felix Favor Parkers. With a studio and showroom in the heart of Norfolk, the brand remains quintessentially British in aesthetics, which has played a key role in its success with UK independent retailers.

The brand’s personality is synonymous with that of its founders; combining qualities of fun, humour and an effortless sartorial elegance.

Available for both men and women, the collection has now grown to include luggage and accessories, designed to transport from town to country. Stocked in nearly 50 stores nationwide, Fairfax and Favor has recently appointed Made in Chelsea’s Josh Patterson as its new menswear ambassador, in line with the new collection, Mayfair. The new season will also see the unveiling of a capsule leather goods range, including a men’s wallet.

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SCALPERS Established in 2007, Scalpers isn’t new to the industry, but its latest collection is certainly one to consider. Conceived with the idea of liberating men from the traditional and sober sense of style, Scalpers offers a refreshing take on both business and leisure wear. With a use of bold colours and standout prints, the Spanish label offers a genuine European flair; with 220 wholesale stockists in France, Portugal, the UK, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Columbia and Ecuador, its popularity is clear to see. Designed for the 36-46 year-old category, the target male shopper is a “leader amongst his friends, has a spirit of adventure and a strong personality; a lover of travel, sports and the latest technology.” As the brand continues to grow, the next season will welcome store launch events in both Paris and London, as well as a potential store opening in Amsterdam this coming summer.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | NEW LABELS | 61

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BLACK EYE RAGS Conceived last year, streetwear label Black Eye Rags was established to cater for the need for a high quality contemporary collection, available to the market on a short order basis. Founded by design duo Rhys Davies and Gary Mayoh, the brand’s signature style is contemporary punk – the attitude of punk, with the direction of clean lines, fabric fusions and visible hardware to form a statement silhouette. Looking to s/s 17, Black Eye Rags will introduce new key shapes and styles, including the drop-crotch utility sweat pant and short sleeved turtleneck sweat top. A highlight of the collection continues to be the trouser category, with the zoot-suit shape (a loose-fit pleated top which tapers to a cropped leg) being presented in new fabrications, with brushed cottons and a new soft touch stretch fabric.

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JOYRICH This season sees Los Angeles streetwear label Joyrich collaborate with up-and-coming grime artist Novelist on a capsule collection, inspired by Novelist’s love for workwear.

Borrowing shapes from trucker hats and oversized gilets, the collection features two denim pieces and branded bandanas – all playfully emblazoned with the artist’s trademark catchphrase, “Mmm yeah”.

“I really like the brand Joyrich because of its colourful and jovial themes,” says Novelist. “I knew that I wanted to design my own clothing at some point in time and Joyrich were the right people for me to work with because both our ideas go hand in hand,” he adds.

Joyrich was established in 2007 by designer Tom Hirota.

Combining a fun, kitsch look with the high-end style LA is renowned for, the brand has been spotted on influential names including Rihanna, Nicki Minaj, Iggy Azalea, Wiz Khalifa and Rita Ora. —

Recognising the need for a streamlined, capsule wardrobe of “killer basics” – as described by founder Kieron Hurley – Les Basics launches this season with a focus on quality, first and foremost. With its debut collection hitting London independent LN-CC this month, the brand is currently enjoying success outside the UK, with stockists in Italy, Hong Kong, Portugal and Australia. The average wholesale price point of £24 certainly can’t be damaging its growing popularity.

“We are bombarded with so much information 24/7 that for me it’s more a question of editing this down more than anything else – I try to focus on stuff with simple and functional design integrity, which is easy on the eye,” says Hurley. “I draw inspiration from architecture, art and fashion, of course, but also things like industrial design and nature’s way of problem solving can spark an idea.”

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | RETAIL | 62

RETAILER ROUND-UP This season has been met with mixed feelings by independents. With Sales starting earlier than ever and summer weather once again slow to kick in, it’s been a season to forget for some. The vote to leave the EU has also divided opinion with retailers as it has with the rest of the country. Tom Bottomley speaks to retailers across the UK to gauge what’s been going on out there.

— TOM O’DELL O’DELL’S, SHOREDITCH

PHIL GOODFELLOW CO-OWNER, NORTHERN THREADS SOUTH SHIELDS “I voted to come out of the EU. Where we are in the north east of the country, we don’t get a lot of benefit from being in it. Only Newcastle has benefited from investment up here. Also, as a small business I feel let down by David Cameron. I’ve paid a hell of lot in VAT this year alone, and if I’m paying in all that money, I don’t want a considerable percentage of it going to Europe. I’d rather that money be spent on the NHS, the armed forces, the police force, and improving the high street and the local area. We need to be putting money back in to our own country.

In terms of this season, it’s actually been a bit of a shocker really. I actually don’t think I know how to buy for spring/summer any more. To be fair we’ve not had a single day where it’s been over 65 degrees in South Shields yet. Add to that our spring/summer stock only seems to have a shelf life of three and half months after the changeover from the previous season. That’s down to the aggressiveness of summer Sales starting in early June. I probably didn’t buy enough mid layers, long sleeved shirts or enough jackets, and I probably over-bought on short-sleeved shirts, polo shirts and chino shorts.

There has been some success stories, but it seems to me at the moment that our local lads are so narrow-minded. There’s only about eight to 10 brands they want to buy. It’s Boss, Armani Jeans, C.P. Company, and Stone Island is absolutely on fire up here – but we can’t get that one in because of the distribution policy, which is frustrating. Adidas Originals is still doing immensely well though, as is Polo Ralph Lauren, Lacoste, Fred Perry and Pretty Green.”

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“I’m too disappointed to comment, but I voted to stay in the EU. Retail is a tricky old game but it’s the game I know. This season has been mixed, some weeks have been fantastic while others have been very slow. I’m sure everyone will say the same but summer hasn’t really turned up this year. This has meant that people haven’t been out and about in force. Calvert Avenue is a beautiful street to shop on when the sun is out, but when it’s raining it can be quiet.

O’Dell’s is a mix of homewares, lifestyle products and menswear and this has been where we have been a success. I’m lucky that around 80 per cent of my goods are exclusive to the store and not trend driven, so this sets us apart from lots of shops. Sarva, the Swedish denim brand, has been very strong for us, as have classic T-shirts and sweats from new London brand Form & Thread. Each item we sell has a nice story behind it and the designers are often in the shop, dropping off stock or helping merchandise the space.

Customers love this and get to understand the process and the exclusivity. We have also worked on some great collaborations this year, launching around eight exclusive products, from leather goods

by Shoreditch designer Charlie Borrow to shirting by Old Ford Workshop.

Going forward, we aim to keep the store looking fresh with a focus on customer service. We don’t copy what others do and we are always introducing new pieces throughout the season. We are launching our own O’Dell’s menswear collection, which we shall sell in-store and look to wholesale. We are also opening our second store in Tufnell Park, concentrating on accessories and homewares.

We will be looking to collaborate with makers and brands on new products for the store.

I’m now the UK agent for Swedish watch brand Nick Cabana, which I have been selling well in store for the past two years. I’ll be looking for about 10 independent retailers to stock the brand.”

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | RETAIL | 63

DAVID JOHNSON OWNER, JOHN DOUGLAS, MACCLESFIELD

JASON ODY OWNER, LE MONDE, WOLVERHAMPTON “There’s been no ‘in-betweens’ so to speak in terms of how brands have performed this season. We’ve had some really strong performers, such as Stone Island, Armani Jeans and C.P. Company. It’s been the major players that seem to have been good, and anything that is on the periphery has been hard work. It’s the more established brands that seem to have been polarised. You don’t see Stone Island discounted, and that obviously helps.

Discount codes on retailer websites seem to be the thing now, ‘for friends and family’ or however you want to disguise it. The likes of Flannels were doing those all season. The whole discounting thing is problematic for the whole industry of course. We’re just about holding our own. We’ll see what we’re left with at the end of August!

The weather has been an issue. It’s not exactly been a decent summer so far, has it? And I think the whole Brexit thing has been an issue somehow; people seem to be worried about their future. I voted to stay in. I’m pro-European. I feel European, and I think we’re stronger together. I’m not antiAmerica, but I would rather be part of Europe than be America’s puppet – especially if Donald Trump gets in.

On a local level, we’ve got a few issues with our city while the shopping centre is having a facelift, so half of that is closed down because they are knocking the units around to make them bigger. Long term it should make it more attractive and bring in some bigger retailers to the city centre, such as Debenhams, Topshop and H&M. That will be good, but I don’t think it will happen until around September of next year.”

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“I voted to go out of the EU. I think there will be a little shudder, but things will balance out. There’s been a lot of scaremongering going on and nervous people who don’t know any different, and they think, ‘Oh it’s alright as it is, we may as well stay as we are,’ but there’s a lot of countries in a bad way in Europe and we’ve been propping them up. I think it’s right for us to take control back.

In terms of current business, this season has followed a similar pattern to last summer – like the weather, it’s been up and down. Footfall on the high street is down again, but the quality of customers has been consistent. We’re probably picking up a bit on the younger end of customers coming in now. They are sharpening up their dressing and buying suits. We’ve moved suits to the top floor and revamped the area – making it a little bit more VIP. We’ve upped the profile and we’re specialising in some slightly more exciting suits, which is filling the gap we were doing on our hire side. Herbie Frogg is a new one for us that’s really been picked up on by our customers. The price points are good, from £250 to £300 for a three-piece, slim-fit suit with narrow bottoms for the fashion lads. We’re also doing a bit from Gibson London and Remus Uomo covering that slim fit fashion suit side.

On the casual front, Barbour, Fred Perry, Replay and Pretty Green have all performed well, as well as a couple of new ones we brought in including shirts from A Fish Named Fred – unique colourful prints which have gone down really well. It’s selling for fun. They retail between £80-£90.”

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GIULIO CINQUE GIULIO, CAMBRIDGE “My vote was to stay in the EU. But now I am thinking, why would anybody want to penalise the UK? Now the decision has been made, I do not want to bury my head in the sand. I now want to move on and make the most of it.

S/s 16 has proved to be a very good season for us. Carrying on from an excellent a/w 15, early deliveries helped to continue our customers’ demand for desirable product.

The customer is seeking luxury and Giulio represents a large number of today’s most sought after international brands.

The core business is also performing well. It is important to have a balanced brand mix. Brand offer must reflect price structure starting at entry level and ‘upselling’ is part of the sales team’s role. The in-store energy is also an important factor to add to the shopping experience, with product well merchandised and displayed to get the best response.

I can honestly say the only issues I have had this summer are positive ones. I believe the economy is in a good place at present. As long as I am ‘loving my customer’, the customer is responding. Looking ahead for a/w 16 I feel very positive. The second half of the year is naturally considered stronger than the first. One must always be in touch with the current trends, be it online or in store. I believe customers continue to desire visiting stores to shop as still nothing comes close to personal service. The issue is not just talking about personal service, it’s carrying it out.

Giulio is recognised for being a luxury independent business and continues to attract the most desirable luxury brands in the market. New arrivals for s/s 16 have been Dior Homme, Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen. For a/w 16 among several new arrivals to Giulio are Givenchy, Fendi and Christian Louboutin. Spring/summer 17 will see the return of the brands of the moment, Valentino and Gucci.”

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | PROFILE | 67

SWEET DREAMS British sleepwear brand Cyberjammies introduced its menswear line for s/s 16. Now with additional styles planned for later this year, Rebecca Jackson speaks to UK sales director Mark Tweed to find out more.

— Established in 2002 by Suresh Sadarangani, Cyberjammies was started through a desire to create a price-conscious product which doesn’t sacrifice on quality. With a ‘fabric first’ philosophy, the main focus of production is to ensure that the end result is a product that is high quality and soft to the touch.

The company name is a blend of ‘cyber’, selected because the brand first launched online, and ‘jammies’ as a name for pyjamas. Now stocked in independent retailers, department stores and across a number of etailers, things have moved on since then for Cyberjammies, though the name has stuck. The range has grown steadily throughout the years, with the brand’s main focus on introducing new prints and fabrics to its womenswear range.

250,000 metres of fabric are predicted to be used within the next year to produce orders for the brand’s international customer base. Each selected fabric is designed by Cyberjammies alongside its partner mills, and is carefully considered based on durability, quality and feel. It is this strict selection process and the brand’s overall focus which UK sales director Mark Tweed feels has set it apart from others in the sleepwear market.

Joining the business in 2004, Tweed brought seven years of merchandising experience to the role. More recently, he helped with the official launch of the brand’s menswear range, Cyberjammies Man, for s/s 16.

“In five years’ time we hope that our menswear range will be in 150 department stores and independent stores, with a strong presence online across multiple etailers – a household name for branded men’s sleepwear in the same way Cyberjammies is for women. Sales growth to date has certainly helped to back that up.”

The brand got its big break soon after initial launch, when House of Fraser snapped the range up. Two years later, Cyberjammies secured John Lewis as another major customer. Starting out as a womenswear-only range, the brand introduced its Nora Rose capsule collection aimed at mature customers a few years ago. Though the initial focus was on the expansion of fabrics and prints for the womenswear range, more recently the brand has moved onto producing its own menswear line.

“Cyberjammies Man was a natural progression,” says Tweed. “With so many of our PJs and nightdresses worn in households across the country, we felt it was a small step to introduce a men’s collection into those same households. The brand recognition is already there, as is the awareness of our quality and value for money.”

Two pre-Christmas styles will launch initially: Freddie and Charlie.

Greys and blues are major colours for the first launch, while mix and match pieces offer a balance between a classic PJ offering and a more contemporary blend of knits, woven fabrics, long sleeves, short sleeves and pants and shorts. Geo prints and checks are predicted bestsellers for both styles launching in December 2016.

Following on from this, Harry, a lightweight style available in spot and check prints, will launch during January 2017. Each menswear range consists of a number of separate items that can be worn as mix and match options.

Some pieces can be bought to be worn as traditional PJ sets and others as more casual loungewear.

“We are always looking to develop and expand the collections,” says Tweed. “For now, our focus is on delivering the current offer to the best of our ability. With a relatively small collection currently, there is always the opportunity to add more colour and collections in existing pieces to offer more choice.”

— Cyberjammies Man will be showcasing its s/s 17 collection at Moda Gent from 7-9 August 2016.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | PROFILE | 68

NORWEGIAN RAIN BREAKS OUT Norwegian Rain has opened a new store at 193 Piccadilly in London. Sales to UK consumers online have been thriving, yet its UK wholesale side has been slow to grow, hence the move to establish greater presence through its own retail. Tom Bottomley caught up at Pitti with the duo behind the brand, Alexander Helle and T-Michael.

— Scandinavian rainwear brand Norwegian Rain opened its first standalone store outside of Norway on London’s Piccadilly – underneath the famous BAFTA House – at the beginning of June.

The shop launch formed a part of London Collections Men. Bringing their sartorial take on rainwear with a Japanese sensibility, the brand has arrived in London on the wave of steady successful international growth. While the store is actually a trial period, with an initial license agreement up until the end of January 2017, the aim is to stay put if things work out well. Even if they don’t work out as expected in that particular location, a London retail presence is still very much the long term plan.

What may surprise UK fashionistas is how little success the brand has so far had on the wholesale front in the UK, given the real design focus and technical detailing applied to its men’s and women’s rainwear. “We did have a pop-up shop within Harvey Nichols a couple of years ago,” explains co-founder and designer T-Michael.

However, wholesale growth from other UK retailers since has not been forthcoming, which has surprised them somewhat. “When we started out we actually thought that Japan and the UK would be our strongest markets. But we’ve not really hit the right tone with the retailers in the UK as yet,” says co-founder and creative director, Alexander Helle. “So we’ve made the big step to do it ourselves.”

The Harvey Nichols pop-up must indeed have done well enough for them to even consider taking this retail opportunity from The Crown Estate then. “We’re happy with the new shop; it feels right and the footfall on Piccadilly is brilliant, with so many international tourists,” says T-Michael. “It’s not hidden, it’s right in the heart of London so people can experience Norwegian Rain. We don’t want to be trendy, we want to be

relevant, so Piccadilly feels right for us. It also rains a lot in London. We love that.” He reveals that they had been contemplating opening a shop in London for a while. Now they have grown as a business, and understand the market better, the timing feels good. Positive signs coming from the UK have also been apparent, with growing online sales to UK customers, particularly from London. “The UK is actually the best market for us on our own web shop,” offers Helle.

Norwegian Rain was established in 2009 in Bergen, Norway by Helle, a business graduate who wanted to create tailored rainwear with a sartorial elegance. Together with T-Michael, a Ghanaian bespoke tailor who relocated to Bergen from London and set up his tailoring studio in the city nearly two decades ago, they created Norwegian Rain.

Bergen is known as the rainiest city in Europe, so it made perfect sense. “We certainly know how it is to be wet,” notes Helle. “Our ‘Raincho’, a signature Norwegian Rain piece, is actually based on the plastic see-through ponchos you see on the backs of people coming off all the cruise boats in to Bergen. All the passengers get off and have to put on a plastic poncho because of the rain, and there’s about 200,000 cruise tourists that come in every year, and Bergen is a city of 250,000 people. All those plastic ponchos influence the look of the whole place, so we wanted to come up with something a bit more interesting design-wise.”

T-Michael adds: “We hate seeing that, so we thought how can we take something so ugly and transform it into something that you would actually want to wear. That was the starting point, and now people are likening it to a kimono, which is cool too.”

T-Michael and Helle design the collections together. The new s/s 17 collection includes pieces that have been designed to be functional

(but always stylish) while riding a bike to work.

Combining form, function, practicality and style, the tailored rainwear garments conceal some of the highest level of weather protection available on the market. They are 100 per cent waterproof and breathable, and the high tech is hidden.

That’s the key.

“There’s plenty of technical garments out there, but what we do is different,” offers T-Michael. “It looks good enough to wear to work or to go out in the evening and still look stylish, but always dry. We’re very rigid when it comes to the design concept. The garments should always be tailored and should not look like raincoats as we know them. We want them to be a bonus to wear when it starts raining.”

Though the look of some of the pieces have quite a Japanese design aesthetic to them, T-Michael says that wasn’t really the intention.

“We like the Japanese sensibility, and the way they strip away all the unnecessary bits, yet keep the essence of the product. But we didn’t seek to fuse that in to our collections. In a way it’s a compliment that some people see it like that.”

Striving to find the best fabric to attain the desired aesthetic, the duo source their premium fabrics, which are composed of recycled polyester, from Japan. The brand sells through 120 stores internationally, including the likes of United Arrows and Barney’s New York in Tokyo.

As well as the latest Norwegian Rain collections, the new Piccadilly store houses a selection of T-Michael’s own ready to wear tailoring, shoes and leather goods as well as a curated selection of Scandinavian mid-century furniture by Modern Tribute. They are also aiming to hold numerous events in the coming months gearing towards their anticipated a/w 16 collaborations with both Grenson shoes (which are 100 per cent waterproof) and Ally Capellino.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | REVIEW | 70

PITTI UOMO The sun flitted in and out, the Italian dandies were seriously peacocking up to the cameras, but when it comes to the nitty gritty, Pitti never fails to deliver. Tom Bottomley reports back with brand news and views, and makes his pick of those tipped for the top for s/s17.

— KRAMMER & STOUDT The Liberty Fairs ‘Born in the USA’ area at Pitti is increasingly pleasing with its excellently edited selection of brands, Krammer & Stoudt being one of definite note. Apparently on Selfridges’ radar last season, they still don’t have any UK accounts and it wouldn’t be right if that didn’t change very soon. Creative director and designer Mike Rubin was born and raised in Southern California in the late 1950s, and grew up surfing on Huntington Beach in the 60s and 70s. At the time there was also a big hot rods scene, whose lifestyle and fashions have been a big influence upon his design aesthetic. Now based in New York, the brand’s managing director (and Mike’s wife) Courtenay Nearburg says: “Our collections are very much California cool meets New York precision.” There’s some great short-sleeved shirts for s/s 17 that are very much 50s and 60s inspired, as well as a slim cut baseball shirt which gives a classic and contemporary silhouette. The patterned native American inspired bomber jacket is another standout piece. Everything is produced in New York, using high-end fabrics sourced from Italy, Portugal and Japan. It’s quite pricey, but well worth it.

MILLER’S OATH Another good one found in the Liberty Fairs hall, Miller’s Oath was cofounded by Kirk Miller in 2010 as a bespoke tailoring business. This was its first time showing a ready-to-wear line at Pitti. There’s not much to it, but what is there is very tasty indeed. Using of-the-moment jersey fabrics and adding tailoring detailing really is a point of difference. The knits are made in Los Angeles and the California-style deconstructed sports jackets are made in New England. Of real interest are the jersey tailored bottoms, which have side adjusters as you’d find on a lot of bespoke trousers, as well as a neat buttoned cuff at the ankle. They look like a real winner for more design-led fashion fans. “We’re trying to make the look a little bit more grown-up, as opposed to too ‘sweatshirty’,” says Miller. “We have a shop in New York, and a small shop in California. Our California customers want to be wearing sweatshirt hoodies, so if we can get them into a sweatshirt fabric sports coat we’re dressing them up.” Miller worked with Thom Browne, helping to build his business from the start, so his credentials are most certainly high.

BARACUTA Now under the design direction of Paul Harvey and Alessandro Pungetti, also creative directors at C.P. Company (Harvey also had a long stint designing for Stone Island), and joint owners of the Ten C brand, Baracuta is aiming to raise the bar with its new outerwear pieces for s/s17. Says Harvey: “We have to be very rigid and precise in terms of design and understand exactly what Baracuta is. We’re moving away from the G9 Harrington jacket, because the brand has become all about that. But they actually started out making rainwear in Manchester back in 1937; I believe they made raincoats for the likes of Burberry and Aquascutum, before their own, so we want to go back to those origins and say, ‘these people make rainwear.’ It’s important for us to really get that message across.” Once it’s been firmly established that Baracuta is a company that makes great raincoats, Harvey believes it will open up the market for the brand, and make their job easier in terms of design input. There’s four raincoat models presented in different fabrics for s/s 17. This is merely the first taste of what is to come. Interesting times clearly lie ahead.

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WOOLRICH Woolrich was becoming slightly staid, samey and conservative, no doubt influenced by its success in the German and Italian markets, but with Jeff Griffin now heading up design (s/s 17 is his second collection), things have certainly got a bit more interesting and outdoors and military inspired.

Graham Eaves, product manager of UK distributors Four Marketing, says: “Jeff introduced the mountain parka story in Gore-Tex for a/w 16, and that’s been carried through in to s/s 17, in single-ply fabric with no down filling.

There’s also a bit of fishing/outdoor story going on with the Woolrich DNA clear, using multi-pockets and dry waxed cotton fabrics.” There’s some great micro ripstop fatigue pants, relaxed but tapered in cut, and some strong outerwear as you’d expect, including a couple of decent bomber jackets as well as the usual hooded coats. The cleaner and more commercial European look is certainly not as prevalent as it has been in recent seasons. Griffin has clearly gone back to what the brand is more about, and its American outdoors roots, and this collection simply works.

UNIVERSAL WORKS Founder and designer David Keyte was already busy taking calls planning his a/w 17 collection while at Pitti, but it was the s/s 17 line on display that was pulling in the buyers. It all just looks so wearable: one of those collections you wanted to take back to your hotel room and try on for later. Not really one for design themes as such, Keyte has introduced a bit of a Cuban influence to part of the collection. He found a book by American photographer Burt Glinn, who documented the Cuban revolution as it was happening at the end of the 1950s. It’s such imagery which has influenced some of Keyte’s designs for s/s17 in terms of shapes, silhouettes and colours.

“The book is about one week of his life trying to find Fidel Castro,” offers Keyte. “But he also took photographs of guys on the street wearing half military clothes, mixed with 50s Americana, Hawaiian shirts and so on, with palm trees in the background.” A palm tree print indeed features on T-shirts, shirts and jackets, and buyers have gone mad for the new distinctive Ikat fabric – used for shirting – and a 50’s style bomber jacket.

RUNABOUT Back to the American hall for one final pick, another which stood out for its simple wearability. Label owner Mike Hodis had a bit of nightmare with his samples arriving late to the show, but just five pieces “strategically placed” on day one was enough to generate the interest of a New York Times reporter who put Runabout in his show report the very same day. “’I really like this, it’s very focused!’ he said to me,” says Hodis. It’s only Runabout’s second ever season, but it’s definitely got something about it. You can tell each piece has been created with a passion about it. All made in Los Angeles, this is very much about classic and basic traditional American sportswear pieces. The cotton zip-up ‘stadium’ jacket with striped collar and cuffs is an easy to throw on piece to wear with jeans and chinos, and the short-sleeved heavyweight sweatshirt is another wardrobe must-have. Even the plain tees have a real quality about them, and they look like they’d last forever. “It’s just well made classic American sportswear,” offers Hodis. You can’t argue with that.

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CRAFT APPEAL After opening its doors in August 2015 to praise and acclaim from critics and the general public alike, Oxford-based retailer Burrows and Hare has had a good start. Now looking to the store’s future, Rebecca Jackson speaks to store founder Junaid Ansari to find out more.

— Growing up immersed in a retail background spanning over 30 years, Burrows and Hare founder Junaid Ansari was provided with an suitable introduction to the clothing world.

Ansari’s father ran high-end luxury menswear retailer Chico’s in Oxford, while his grandfather worked within the textile industry. Following suit, he utilised the skills he had picked up at an early age and ventured out on his own.

“It felt like the area was missing a cool menswear store,” he says. “Everything looked a bit drab, and we recognised that there was a want and a gap in the market for it. The industry is more saturated in London, so it’s good that we can bring a unique mix of products and brands to the people of Oxford that otherwise wouldn’t have been available.”

Like many others based outside the capital city, Ansari and his team find that London caters for them in terms of buying and industry events.

“We still travel to London all the time. It is the hub for us,” he says. “Now that’s everything’s better connected, there’s more of a desire to find other places of interest and to look outside the box. In London, we can attend shows like Jacket Required, so it’s a very important place to buy. In

terms of where the store is located, Oxford works well for us. We attract a good mix of tourists and locals; people like to come in and find out what it’s all about. That’s why the merchandising and general store aesthetic is so important. We get a lot of interest from the international crowd, in particular people who’ve travelled here from Japan and Korea.”

Located within the heart of Oxford in the Covered Market, a historic building first opened in the 18th century, the store is well placed to reach its target customer. As Ansari puts it: “It’s not every customer, but the right customer.”

Filled with indie businesses from all walks of life – including florists, butchers and craftspeople – it’s the kind of place which attracts both repeat customers and those who happen to stumble upon the store. However, sales usually come from the 25+ male shopper camp: the type of customer who seeks a good quality product of a one-off nature. John Smedley, Edwin, Ally Capellino and Sunspel do particularly well in-store.

The store also attracts female shoppers, something which Ansari puts down to its range of almost gender neutral leather goods and accessories, which fit nicely in line with the

normcore trend. Burrows and Hare is not simply a one stop shop for the generic male shopper. The focus is firmly on tradition, heritage and craft. It offers an open door policy for anyone who loves a well made product. And it’s not just a mantra championed in the company ethos statement, but something that is seen through the entire store, from the in-store decor and the considered approach to customer relationships, to the curated product offering.

“The Made in England label is a big selling point for us,” says Ansari. “We try to keep as much of the selection and manufacturing of the products local or based within the UK. However, if a product is right and there’s a large element of craft there, we can decide to select it.

“We don’t have strict criteria, though we tend to look for a product which has been made using specialist skills. A lot of Japanese brands do this really well, and I think this is why there’s interest in the store from this market.”

The age-old mantra ‘quality over quantity’ is an important one for the retailer. Craft and the heritage image are reflected through every facet of the store’s appearance and product selection, which is split into lifestyle, accessories and

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clothing. Even the name came to Ansari after he thought of “two discerning gentlemen called Burrow and Hare.” It’s a name which he himself dubs peculiar. However, it is this element of obscurity which reflects the unique nature of the business. It’s a name that sticks, which is no doubt essential when establishing your own brand of product.

The store stocks its own brand range of product which includes, shirts, socks and small leather pieces and Ansari expects to add to the selection with denim in the near future. The range has already proved to be a success, with the knitwear offering in particular doing well during a/w 15. Comprised of Irish Donegal yarn, the line received lots of attention from the public which translated into healthy sales.

Ansari holds high hopes for the own brand range this a/w 16 and expects more of it to be ready in time – something which was a challenge last year after the store opened its doors in August.

“We were a bit rushed as the opening was delayed by few months,” says Ansari. “But besides that there were no problems as such. I was confident. We had backing off the council and

there were no restrictions on planning. There was a real positive vibe. Everyone was excited to see what we were going to bring to the table. We’re working with a new factory this season and we’ve got more in place for our own brand offering.”

There is more work in place for the store’s online presence, with a transactional website about to go live at the time of going to print. The website will be primarily used as a means to support the bricks and mortar store – which is perhaps an indication of why, after almost a year of being in business, its is only being established now. Instead, the focus has been on building reputation, word of mouth and the quality sales approach, which is the antithesis of the hard sell tactics often seen on the high street.

Operating as a small team of three people – the third member only recently added to aid the day-to-day running of the store – all tasks, including buying and managing the store’s online presence, are shared. It’s a varied role, which sees Ansari don many different hats, so to speak. “I love meeting people from all walks of life,” he says. “It’s my favourite part of being in retail. I meet all types of people, especially in Oxford.”

It’s this drive which separates a good retailer

from a great one, and Ansari’s passion extends to his plans for the future, which centre around creating increased buzz about the business – to him, it’s about “what gets people talking”. With so many indie businesses in Oxford and artisans and craftspeople of new and old, collaborations and projects are in the pipeline.

“We want growth, as every business does, but only if it’s organic. We want to grow staff, production and what we can offer people – but this can only happen if we don’t sacrifice anything along the way. I would be happy to open up another store further down the line, but I wouldn’t approach this as 10 store openings all at once.”

The store will also unveil a new collaboration range of duffle coats this a/w, with the partner brand to be named later in the year. Grooming ranges from Eccentric Molecules, which have been successful in-store, will also be continued for the next season. Further afield the store will aim towards a strategy which will see Ansari take its products to Japan. With the store’s range of heritage and traditional craft products in tow, unlocking the Japanese market could be a reality in the near future.

—

NEW KID IN TOWN

MWB showcases a fresh wave of new product set to excite and interest buyers for the season ahead. — Photographer: Richard Boyle Stylist: Victoria Jackson Make-up and Grooming: Lauren Rippin www.laurensally.co.uk Models: Shea Thompson-Blake and Henry Smith, both of Boss Model Management www.bossmodelmanagement.co.uk

Long-line bomber – Black Eye Rags £45 07817 314663 Jeans – DML Jeans £10 0161 864 6035 T-shirt – Fulwood £9.73 07964 550212

Henry wears: Jacket – Weekend Offender £29.63 01332 614755. Jeans – Duck & Cover £26 0844 693 0401. Top – Bellfield £7.25 0844 477 4856. Trainers – Frank Wright price on request 01706 212512 Shea wears: Striped top – Sugarhill Boutique £12.15 01273 911 393. Jeans – Franklin & Marshall £33 0039 045 558068. Shirt – Sugarhill Boutique £14.30 01273 911393

Bomber jacket – Duck & Cover £28 0844 693 0401 Shorts – Blend £13.70 020 3432 6387 Shirt – Mishmash £18.95 01422 371228

Henry wears: Baseball top – Ratchet £15 07944 926339 Jeans – DML Jeans £16 0161 864 6035 Shea wears: White leather jacket – Cubic price on request 020 3432 6385 Grey Love Top – Chaser £24 020 7349 9668 Jeans – Hallhuber price on request 0800 8506000

Shirt – Native Youth £11.50 0161 835 2064 Shorts – Native Youth £12.75 0161 835 2064 Leather backpack – Jekyll & Hide £107 0203 282 7138

T-shirt – A Black and White Story price on request care@ablackandwhitestory.com Shirt – Bellfield £10.50 0844 477 4856 Shorts – Blend £10.10 020 3432 6387 Hat – Ratchet £10 07944 926339

Top – Soulstar £4.99 01623 756644 Jeans – Scotch & Soda £46 020 3137 3901

Shirt – Mishmash £18.95 01422 371228 Chinos – Native Youth £13.25 0161 835 2064

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | PEOPLE | 84

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK OPEN BALADIN VIA DEGLI SPECCHI, 6, 00186 ROMA, ITALY

SIMON SAYS I was going to write a dry and pithy piece about the decline of brands in Generation Z and the threat to multinationals, but today is Friday 24 June and I’m still processing the fact that my country has voted to turn its back on Europe.

I went to bed confident in the sanity of the electorate and woke up in a state of shock. I’ve just returned to my office from meetings in Central London where the collective mood was funereal. A sombre pallor has descended on the capital. Nothing will be the same.

Anyway, fortified with a cup of Earl Grey, and a slice of cake, let me attempt to throw off the mantle of despair and entertain my readers…

Once again, I chose to show at LCM rather than Pitti, much as I miss my dose of Florentine beauty. We show at The Union club, my private members establishment in Soho and the faded 18th-century grand reception room works perfectly. The format we used in January worked well, so we stuck to showing on the Friday afternoon. The upside is that this didn’t clash with any major players on the official schedule; the downside was that many of my Japanese buyers didn’t arrive till the Saturday and it’s something I’ll have to weigh up for next time.

The show was well attended and well received, with around a hundred visitors. There were some conventional press, but these, and the number of buyers, were greatly outweighed by the Bloggers, Vloggers and Schnoggers (yes I made that last one up). Collectively, they now like to be called ‘influencers’, and certainly, to underestimate their influence would be an error of judgement.

They are a product of our time; many are highly paid by brands to place and wear and promote products. More interesting is the trend for brands to work collaboratively with them, to leverage that influence.

Many are thoughtful, well edited and informative, such as my friend Carl Thompson. Others leave me scratching my head as to whether they have an opinion of their own, or just rewrite press releases.

One thing is clear. They are brands in their own right, with growing armies of followers and influence. The under 25s are less interested in brands as we would know them, than in becoming brands themselves.

The definition of ‘brand’ is changing; someone with 100,000 Instagram followers is a brand whether they produce their own clothing or not.

How the conventional brands adapt and appeal to this fickle, selfabsorbed Gen Z is going to be a fascinating challenge.

— Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

Since opening its doors in 2009 Open Baladin has found popularity with locals and visitors alike. Established within the heart of Italy’s capital city, the bar and restaurant offers a new kind of pub concept to its customer – which ranges from the craft beer connoisseur to first time rookie. However, Open Baladin remains far enough from the beaten track and the tourist traps that occupy the main square in the old town to maintain its authenticity.

Offering over 100 different labels of Italian craft beer from a careful selection of Italian breweries, it’s fair to say a visit to the Open Baladin would be pointless without sampling the selection of beer on offer. Opting to call the bar ‘Open’ was a move which the owners took to emphasise the ‘open experience’ theme, which extends to culture, taste and quality. This is seen in the bar’s beer selection and food menu, which is designed to reflect a ‘360 degree spread’ of craft beer culture.

—

PLAN B

PETER CHALLIS, menswear buyer, Jones Bootmaker

If I hadn’t started working in the menswear industry I would love to earn my crust as a writer or lyricist.

— My career in footwear was cast from an early age.

My birth town was Kettering and I grew up on the outskirts of Leicester – both historical shoemaking hotspots. My local towns were home to 16 footwear factories, but sadly by the late 1980s these had dwindled to a handful.

Short stories and poetry is where I find the spark to ignite my creative flame. I have many friends who plough the lyrical field both in song and the written word. I imagine myself installed at my late father’s antique bureau, a strong brew in hand and a head full of words.

—

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CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL MICHAEL FRACKOWIAK FOUNDER AND HEAD OF DESIGN, MEN’S FINEST POCKET SQUARE I love a pair of double monk strap shoes, and bought a good pair from Zara. Good double monks mean business. They need to be of a certain shape and in a decent leather. I’m also a fan of colourful socks, but when I mean colourful I don’t mean with snowman prints or days of the week on them.

Happy Socks really do some great ones.

— Chinos form another essential item in my wardrobe, and to be fair I found the best on the high street. Next do the best fit for me. They are slim fitting, they come in decent colours and they are a reasonable price. I have about eight pairs of chinos all in different colours. A blue suit jacket can look a different proposition when teamed with light blue or mustard chinos.

— For me it’s important to always have good white shirts too. Classy, timeless and always elegant. Also easy to dress up or down. TM Lewin and Charles Tyrwhitt are my ‘go to’ shops for white shirts; again competitive price points play a part. A bow tie is also a worthy addition to the look to dress it up, and we do some great ones ourselves at Men’s Finest Pocket Square. I go to Pitti for inspiration on that front. If I’m hitting the town I’ll wear something classy, perhaps a velvet one, or our 100 per cent checked wool version to add a bit of colour to the look. It always seems to get compliments, so that can’t be a bad thing.

— When it comes to scarves, Begg & Co.’s are a favourite of mine. They make unbelievable soft scarves and cashmere products. The company has a factory in Scotland, and it is an amazing place of amazing craftsmanship and unheard of attention to details. For this one you have to forget about the price for a second and focus on the quality. To finish off, I believe every man should have a perfectly tailored, made to measure and hand-finished umbrella. For this you can’t beat Fox Umbrellas; for that there is no doubt.

—

TOP TWEETS Ben McGrail @Ben_McGrail Sensational – #glastonburytraffic is so bad people are playing cricket in the roads... #Glasto2016 Tim Nokes @timnokes Today is not the day for endless autocorrects of “ducking” you know damn well what I mean Apple...

Reiss @REISS We’re celebrating our new Madison Avenue store by offering complimentary coffee and ice-cream.

John Lewis @johnlewisretail We’re flying the rainbow flag over our Oxford Street shop for #PrideinLondon this weekend.

Cad & The Dandy @Cadandthedandy Great evening in Savile Row last night with the Old Stoic Wine Society and @ ATLASWINES. Thanks to all who came.

Harrods @Harrods It’s almost the weekend so we’ve decided to enjoy a cupcake or two from the #HarrodsFoodHalls. @doubleHagency1 @doubleHagency1 Next stop Panorama Berlin to present #SS17 #collection of @coloursandsons and Forecast! See you there.

Michelle Walsh @MichelleA_Walsh Love the @WEARESIBLING bottle design for #absolutpride. I want to live in it!

Accent Clothing @AccentClothing Take your dog to work day! Yes that really is a thing.

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p BRITISH DESIGNER NEIL BARRETT AND LUXURY RETAILER HARVEY NICHOLS PROUDLY ANNOUNCE THE LAUNCH OF ‘ORIGINALS: VOL #1’, AN EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION THAT REVISITS THE WORK OF THE DESIGNER OVER THE PAST DECADE, NOW AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT HARVEY NICHOLS.

p NIALL HORAN, JOHANNES HUEBL AND PAUL SCULFOR ON THE FRONT ROW OF THE OLIVER SPENCER S/S 17 RUNWAY SHOW AT LAST MONTH’S LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN.

p CAROLINE RUSH CBE, CHIEF EXECUTIVE OF THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL, ALONGSIDE RADIO DJ NICK GRIMSHAW AT THE VMAN X BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL PARTY, IN COLLABORATION WITH CONVERSE, TO KICK OFF LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN.

Other body parts also available Find out more on 0330 44 55 026

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JULY 2016 | 87

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

p PELÉ AT CARNABY STREET t ONE OF CAOIMHE SAVAGE’S WINNING DESIGNS

MIXED VIEWS AND MESSAGES AFTER BREXIT VOTE Now the country has voted for Brexit, we obviously face a period of uncertainty. And of course, there is the inevitable talk about another recession. An initial dip in the pound will no doubt give exports a boost, and tourism for that matter, but retailers bringing brands in from other countries (particularly the US as the pound took its biggest plunge against the dollar since 1985 – dropping to $1.33) will face some tough decisions as to what they buy in. Margins are already being hit severely by continual online discounting, as well as Sales starting as early as the first week of June this time around. Not to mention the so far pretty non-existent summer hardly inspiring shopping for new kit.

We don’t really know yet what the fall-out will be from the Brexit vote but, as always, the best retailers will box clever and ride the early storm. The doom-mongers will continue to tell us the country has made an awful decision. A brave decision, however, and certainly one that rocked a complacent and contemptuous Brussels elite.

Let’s face it: plenty of European Union member states are hardly in good shape, and probably shouldn’t have been allowed to join the EU in the first place, as countries like ours seem to be propping them up time and time again.

Most of us haven’t got a clue where so much of the vast sums of money that seem to go into the EU pot from these shores all goes. As many retailers – in the north and north east certainly – have said post the Brexit vote, investment in our own national services, towns, high streets and communities may now be more forthcoming. We can only hope so for the moment.

Testing times indeed lay ahead, but that’s not to say that in the long run Britain can’t and won’t grow stronger. Countries around the globe, with which we will now be able to trade more freely, are not going to suddenly stop buying from us because we are no longer in team EU. In fact, our industry may grow with stronger exports.

Some 53 per cent of the UK’s exports go to non EU countries as it is. And, as we know, fashion is one of the main exports this country has.

Bouncing back is also another strong British trait,

so hopefully the nation will move on with increasing confidence in the future.

THIS WEEK WE’LL BE MOSTLY WEARING...

A Kingston University designer whose colourful military-inspired collection puts a modern spin on the traditional soldier’s uniform has carried off the prestigious menswear prize at Graduate Fashion Week. Caoimhe Savage was presented with the coveted award, which comes with a £5,000 cash prize, during a star-studded gala event which marked the end of the annual industry showpiece in East London. The judging panel was impressed by her vibrant oversized garments, which blended elements of Japanese Second World War uniforms with those worn by German and British soldiers. The 22 year-old told how her designs were inspired by a visit to London’s Imperial War Museum. The catwalk pic that was sent out to press after the victory may not, however, have been the finest selection.

Graduate catwalk shows always seem to be full of over the top extras to add a design statement, but surely you’d run a mile if someone was walking down the street towards you dressed in this

fisherman on acid outfit? Not to take away from Savage’s success in any way; we wish her all the success in the world. But she may need to tone it down a touch.

FOOTBALL GREAT PELÉ BRINGS CARNIVAL SPIRIT TO CARNABY STREET A week before the European Championships kicked off in France, perhaps the greatest footballer ever to live, Edson Arantes do Nascimento aka the global superstar, Pelé, was at the Pro-Direct store on Foubert’s Place, Carnaby, and it created quite a stir. The world’s only ProDirect store joined teams with Pantofola d’Oro and Simply Prestige events to host the Brazilian hero for an intimate in-store Q&A with host Layla Anna-Lee, discussing his life, career and winning three World Cups for his home country. Crowds gathered for a glimpse of one of football’s global icons and, being the true gent he is, he stood proudly under the famed Carnaby arch for a photo with fans wearing his home colours whilst waving Brazilian flags. The Carnival girls added a bit of extra glitz to it. Everyone loves a bit of retail theatre.

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LAST ORDERS WITH...

MITCHEL GALVIN-FARNOL Becoming one the most talked about labels of the last year, NICCE is currently stocked in the likes of ASOS, Topman and Glue, as well as a being a wardrobe favourite with bloggers and celebrities alike. Victoria Jackson discovers more about the London brand with its founder, Mitchel Galvin-Farnol.

—

You established NICCE back in 2013; what was the reasoning behind the launch?

It was launched on the back of seasons working in Ibiza, and spotting a gap in the market for a clean, simpler streetwear brand. Having that strong connection in the underground electronic music scene, we quickly endorsed DJs to help establish the brand.

Where did the name originate from?

After months of thinking of terrible names and hopeless designs, we started actually thinking within the box instead of out of it. It was something that actually meant something to us.

Nice is a word spoken within our social scene constantly, so an adaption of this with an added ‘C’ arose and finishing it with ‘London’ beneath it completed it. The result is a cleaner, more universal logo with street and Lux influences – but the pronunciation is still a mystery today.

What do you think you’d be doing if NICCE hadn’t become a reality?

From aged 18 I’ve been self-employed in a variety of sectors, from automotive part sales, to property development, but I’m pretty certain I’d still be in fashion even if I hadn’t launched this brand.

Who would you like to see wearing the label?

It would have to be someone like Drake or A$AP Rocky – someone who could really kick things off internationally for us.

Obviously you cater for both the male and female shopper – which category is the more successful?

The menswear sector is a much larger business for us currently. We’re finding our feet with womenswear, but it’s an exciting part of the business that’s growing rapidly. I actually only have time to oversee the design these days, but I make sure I insert my input in regular meetings with the design team.

What are you influenced by?

Ralph Sport in the 90s saw the great use of bold branding, varsity looks and big colour blocking, which is as ever-present today. We pair this with our roots in the electronic music scene, which has always had its place in fashion and trends. From early Ibiza to London or Berlin, there’s so much diversity to take inspiration from.

Who’s your favourite designer?

Neil Barrett and Lou Dalton.

What would you say is your biggest achievement to date?

We’re now the largest brand in Topman, and it’s following suit with the other majors we’re in. But I still feel like we are a baby brand, and it’s only the beginning, with many achievements yet to hit.

And what about your toughest moment?

Production has been a very hard process for us.

With little experience in this area, it’s been a fast learning curve for this side of the business. We actually launched in Topman, printing on readymade garments, from a UK bulk supplier.

After numerous trials and errors in the past year and collecting an experienced team, the process is a little smoother now.

What other labels would we find in your wardrobe?

A lot of Our Legacy, La Paz, and my favourite piece at the minute – a wool salmon shirt by Tenders.

Is a store opening on the cards?

The day will come when we will open a flagship in either Soho or Shoreditch, but the online business is very successful so I wouldn’t want to distract from this at this moment in time.

DOB: 13 December 1989 Place of birth: Kings Lynn, Norfolk Lives: Dalston, London Twitter: @niccelondon Website: www.niccelondon.com Instagram: @niccelondon

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS — Favourite film?

The Shawshank Redemption — Early Bird or night owl?

Night owl — Favourite travel destination?

Barcelona for city, Formentera for a beach break — Biggest vice?

I’ve got really bad misophonia. For those that don’t know what it means, it’s acute hearing so listening to people chew or sniff causes serious agitation. I think the team would agree that sometimes the office isn’t the best place for me… especially around lunch.

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www.GOLA.CO.UK @GOLACLAssiCs

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