MWB MAGAZINE JUNE ISSUE 231

ISSUE 231 | JUNE 2016 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

SHOW SEASON YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL TRADESHOWS DIDSBURY’S FINEST STERANKO CELEBRATES ITS 25TH BIRTHDAY MORAL HIGH GROUND THE SUCCESS OF ETHICAL BRAND PEOPLE TREE

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | CONTENTS | 05

F E A T U R E S 12

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

14

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

21

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

26

In-season stock

The persuaders

28

In-season stock

Footloose and fancy free

31

Show Guide: spring/summer 2017

Your essential guide to the exhibitions to visit

32

Pitti Uomo

New and returning signings to catch this season

35

Berlin evolution

What’s next for mainstream trade show Panorama

36

Community service

A new focus for SEEK & Bright

39

French dressing

Five French labels to check out this season

40

At the source

Profiling sourcing show Fashion SVP

42

Exhibition Calendar

A comprehensive rundown of the dates and locations to put in your diary

44

Routed in ethics

Discovering the story behind ethical brand People Tree

47

Didsbury’s menswear marvel

Steranko celebrates 25 years in business

R E G U L A R S 7 8 18

Comment News Interview

Adam Green

48 51 54

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Ross Barr-Hoyland

Front cover:

Armor-Lux 0161 236 9855

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | COMMENT | 07

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — W R I T E R Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

Last month welcomed the second edition of Meet the Manufacturer to London, and the message throughout the event was ‘British business is better than ever’ – but with uncertainty over the UK’s future as we draw closer to the EU referendum, is this a rose-tinted view?

—

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2016 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

There’s no arguing that the Meet the Manufacturer event, organised by Make it British, attracted a high calibre of participants, including the British Fashion Council, Harrods, Marks & Spencer, the National Gallery and ASOS, who were all there for one reason in particular – to celebrate and campaign for the return of British manufacturing.

Over 100 companies from across the textile and homeware sector came together to exhibit at the trade show, which was held at the Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane, London. New for this year’s event was the Innovation Accelerator and Designer’s Den, where businesses could pitch ideas to a panel of experts live at the conference. It was in fact a menswear company called Sockmine – which develops highly technical socks for sports such as snowboarding, running, walking and cycling – who scooped first prize.

And it seems it wasn’t just exhibitors who were passionate about British manufacturing, with more than 900 people queuing to attend a series of free drop-in workshops across the two days, eagerly awaiting sessions such as ‘Developing a brand in 10 steps’, ‘How to successfully work with UK manufacturers’ or ‘Taking your British brand overseas’.

However, as the UK manufacturing sector begins to edge itself into growth territory, it continues to struggle against the effect of EU referendum uncertainty.

According to the Markit/CIPS UK Manufacturing Purchasing Managers’ Index, a third of manufacturers surveyed said uncertainty over the vote, which takes place on 23 June, has had a detrimental impact on their business. Concern about the UK’s future in the EU has already, in fact seen businesses postpone spending and investment decisions, while a slowing economy has influenced demand for British goods.

Whatever the outcome may be on 23 June, it will be a while until our economy steadies itself again, but at least with events such as Meet the Manufacturer, the spotlight is shining on British manufacturing at a time when it’s most certainly needed. Be sure to check in with MWB-online.co.uk for live coverage of the referendum as it happens.

Victoria Jackson Editor

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

HAWKINS & SHEPHERD’S SUBSCRIPTION SHIRTS

CBI PREDICTS SLOW UK GROWTH The UK economy is expected to continue to grow, but at a slower rate through 2016 and 2017, and there are signs that global economic risks, including uncertainty ahead of the EU referendum, are starting to weigh on investment plans, according to the latest CBI economic forecast.

The leading business group’s latest quarterly forecast predicts that the UK will see 2.0 per cent GDP growth in both 2016 and 2017, both of which are downgrades from its last forecast in February (2016 – 2.3 per cent, 2017 – 2.1 per cent).

Growth is expected to be driven by household spending and investment, but the deterioration in the global economic outlook, including weaker prospects for China and other emerging markets, continue to represent major challenges.

The report states the economy saw a softer than expected start to the year, which has contributed to a large part of the downgrade in GDP growth in 2016. There are also signs that uncertainty over the outcome of the EU referendum is having a tangible impact on the spending plans of some firms.

“We expect the UK’s growth path to continue but it is likely to be at a slower rate than previously thought,” says Carolyn Fairbairn, CBI director-general. “A dark cloud of uncertainty is looming over global growth, particularly around weakening emerging markets and the outcome of the EU referendum, which is chilling some firms’ plans to invest. At present, the economic signals are mixed – we are in an unusually uncertain period.”

The CBI believes that the timing of a first rise in interest rates will now be in the second quarter of 2017 (rising to 0.75 per cent) against the backdrop of slower growth.

Household spending will remain a major driver of economic growth, though it is expected to ease (2016 – 2.5 per cent, 2017 – 1.5 per cent). This is due, in part, to rising inflation over the course of the next two years – picking up towards the Bank of England’s target of 2 per cent by early 2017 – which tempers growth in real incomes. Nevertheless, household spending will account for around 80 per cent of growth in 2016, and roughly half in 2017.

“With GDP growth softening and commodity prices still low, inflationary pressures remain muted. Referendum uncertainty also appears to be dampening some activity in the near term, and so put altogether, we do not now expect to see a rise in interest rates before 2017,” says Rain Newton-Smith, CBI economics director.

“On the global front, momentum is tepid and the picture for some emerging markets remains weak. Growth among the Asian giants is likely to continue to outperform more advanced economies, but financial fragilities in China are still raising concerns,” she adds.

—

London shirt specialist Hawkins & Shepherd has launched a subscription service for its growing customer base.

The premium label, which was founded in 2013, now offers three packages – Enthusiast, Executive and Essential – allowing shoppers to receive various discounts depending on the package chosen.

Enthusiast, for example, is designed for the business traveller, with a 12 month subscription allowing customers to pay £54 per shirt – a 40 per cent saving on average – receiving one shirt per month. Executive offers a shirt every two months, with an average saving of 30 per cent per shirt.

Finally, Essential is designed for those looking for premium menswear at a more manageable cost.

Receiving a shirt every quarter enables the shopper to spread the cost over three months, which is the equivalent of a 20 per cent saving on each shirt.

—

REVOLVER AND WHITE JOIN FORCES FOR S/S 17 Copenhagen trade show Revolver has joined forces with Milan-based exhibition WHITE, with the aim of strengthening the international awareness of both platforms. Revolver will have a curated area inside the June edition of WHITE Man and Woman (18-20 June), showcasing around 15 Scandinavian fashion brands. Similarly, WHITE will be present at Revolver in Copenhagen from 10-12 August with a dedicated space of 15 Italian fashion brands.

“WHITE and Revolver are pioneering platforms within their regions and both shows are founded on mutual values like quality, consistency and innovation,” says WHITE founder Massimiliano Bizzi.

Revolver founder and creative director Christian Maibom adds: “This initiative between WHITE and Revolver will also increase the international awareness for Italian fashion in northern Europe and Scandinavia and likewise for Scandinavian fashion in Italy and southern Europe.”

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | NEWS | 09

NEWS IN BRIEF

CRAIG GREEN WINS BFC/GQ MENSWEAR PRIZE

KEY BRANDS SET TO RETURN TO JACKET REQUIRED

British designer Craig Green has been announced as the winner of the third BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund, supported by Vertu. Green founded his eponymous label after graduation from Central Saint Martins’ MA Course in 2012.

“This year the level of talent and business acumen presented by the shortlisted designers was even higher than usual, with each designer making a case for themselves,” says Dylan Jones, editor of British GQ and chair of London Collections Men. “However there was really one winner, as Craig demonstrated a unique ability to build commercially on the incredible awareness driven by his highprofile shows during London Collections Men. It was a unanimous decision, as he showed a seemingly innate ability to understand the demands of growing a small business. He is a more than worthy winner of the prize,” Jones adds.

—

Jacket Required, the UK’s largest menswear trade exhibition, will see an influx of key returns this summer, with iconic British label Gloverall, lifestyle label Hartford and denim specialist Levi’s Made & Crafted are all set to rejoin. Other names making a comeback following a break from the contemporary trade fair, which takes place on 27-28 July 2016, include Altamont, Satta and Manhattan Portage.

Meanwhile, the likes of Pretty Green, Camper, Saucony, Nicholas Deakins and Grind London will all return after successful debuts last season.

“We decided to return to Jacket Required after a break of a couple of years so buyers are aware of what our brand stand for and what we offer,” says Ian Campbell Smith, agent for Hartford at Palladio Associates. “The last time we exhibited we picked up some really great accounts so we’re hoping to add to our current 35 UK stockists,” he adds.

—

MODA GENT OFFERS RAFT OF NEW SIGNINGS

BELSTAFF’S JAMES HUNT ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION

Moda Gent will return this summer with a relevant and contemporary selection of brands across the full spectrum of the menswear sector. Three months ahead of the s/s 17 edition, a host of new exhibitors have shown early commitment to the event.

Iconic label Ben Sherman will make its Moda Gent debut this season, showcasing its distinctive collection of British heritage design. Other debutantes include new surfwear label Blue Tide, outerwear specialist Rainstar and Trinity Apparel, which will reveal a revolutionary new concept in made-to-measure tailoring.

This season’s new additions will be showcased as part of Moda’s redefined format, following a positive response from the industry earlier this year.

In particular the show’s Outdoor Lifestyle area and newly developed unisex border were praised by visitors and exhibitors alike.

—

Belstaff is set to launch a capsule collection to celebrate 40 years since British sporting legend James Hunt’s Formula One Championship win at Fuji. Created in collaboration with Hunt’s sons Tom and Freddie, the collection comprises six exclusive pieces referencing Belstaff’s historical outerwear pieces and Hunt’s iconic red race suit with white horizontal stitching.

Created in hand-waxed leather there are two key styles: a four pocket belted jacket with quilting details on the shoulder and a second shorter shape with two chest pockets. Both formats are lined in the style of Hunt’s iconic race suit.

A short café-racer blouson sees the introduction of a new soya wax cotton, meanwhile, with T-shirts and polo shirts in pop colours to accompany it. To complete the look there are also straight-legged black denim jeans.

—

BOXPARK ANNOUNCE FINAL TENANT LINE-UP Boxpark has announced the final tenant line-up for its Croydon development, which will be London’s first dedicated street food and entertainment led Boxpark concept.

Key anchor tenants include Meatliquor, while The Breakfast Club will bring its signature all-day menu, alongside Chilango which will present its Mexican offer.

In addition, Boxpark will have a series of local independent businesses on board, including Yumn, The Cronx, Breadtree and Mud. In total, 41 of London’s most exciting operators will combine to deliver a wide variety of food options – set to open in September of this year.

— MUSIC MAKEOVER FOR STORES Professional music consultancy PRS for Music is giving fashion stores the chance to win £5,000 worth of music equipment, plus invaluable guidance from music experts as part of its Music Makeover competition. Launched in 2011, initially for the pub sector to promote the importance of music in business, the competition is now being extended to fashion stores.

Celebrating the value of music, PRS for Music is also offering a bespoke music consultation from a leading music and technology expert advising them on the best use of music in stores and a launch event to celebrate and promote the win.

Paul Clements, Commercial Director of PRS for Music says: “We are very excited to be expanding our Music Makeover competition to fashion retailers this year, where we offer the winning store a £5,000 makeover as well as an exclusive consultation on their music use. There are still a number of people who don’t realise music can add a real layer of competitive advantage to their business, or know how to use music to its full potential, which is where PRS for Music and the businessto-business music services we licence can advise.”

The winner of the first prize will receive a music makeover worth £5,000, plus a music consultancy and launch event with performances from PRS for Music members. Two runners-up, meanwhile, will receive £2,500 worth of music makeovers.

The closing date is Friday 15 July 2016 at 5pm. For more information visit www.prsformusic.com.

— PRESSURE ON M&S TO CLOSE STORES Marsk & Spencer is under pressure from its largest shareholders to close some of its stores, as new boss Steve Rowe prepares to unveil an overhaul of the company.

Currently M&S’s portfolio of stores is proving one of the group’s biggest issues for senior management. Rowe, who succeeded Marc Bolland in March, will reveal his plans this month. The company recently posted a 2 per cent rise in pre-tax profits to £673m.

— CARVEN APPOINTS NEW CEO Premium designer label Carven has announced the appointment of Sophie de Rougemont as chief executive officer.

Rougemont will take the reins to lead the brand to the next level, supported by Henri Sebaoun, who acquired the house in 2008, and has now been appointed managing director.

She will build on the present success of Carven and drive its growth within America, Asia and Europe.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | NEWS | 10

NEWS IN BRIEF

DEBENHAMS APPOINTS NEW CEO

RETAILERS HURT BY SERIAL RETURNERS

British department store group Debenhams has appointed Sergio Bucher, VP Fashion Europe at Amazon’s fashion division, as its new chief executive officer.

Bucher will join the team in the autumn, succeeding current CEO Michael Sharp – who is set to stand down from his role at the board on 24 June.

“I am excited to be joining Debenhams, with its strong UK heritage, a growing international presence and a track record of supporting and developing brands and designers,” says Bucher on his appointment. “I look forward to working with its experienced and talented team to take Debenhams forward to an exciting new future.”

Bucher has been credited with leading Amazon’s fashion growth, now seen as one of the largest fashion retailers in Europe.

—

While shoppers continue to demand easy and free returns with online purchases, this is negatively affecting retailers’ bottom line, according to research by Barclaycard. The phenomenon of serial returners, who habitually over-order online to take advantage of free returns, is hindering the growth of UK businesses, the research states. Three in 10 shoppers deliberately over-purchase, while one in five admit to ordering multiple versions of the same item in order to make their mind up at home.

Three in 10 online-only retailers claim that managing the returns process has an impact on their profit margins, while one in five have increased the price of items to cover the costs of managing and processing customer returns. This comes as online shopping continues to grow in popularity, with spending in digital channels rising 14.1 per cent yearon-year in 2015, compared to just 1.1 per cent in-store.

—

SELFRIDGES LAUNCHES NEW APP

FOURMARKETING BUYS PRESENT

British department store Selfridges has launched a new shoppable app, which allows users to purchase from its store or Instagram app for the first time. The new social media friendly iOS app features a personalised homepage, which lets customers save their favourite brands and product categories, as well as insider alters that share information on upcoming events at their nearest store. Users can choose to receive updates on new collection arrivals, product launches and preferred brands. The app also offers a store guide function, which shares each Selfridges store’s services and features.

The Selfridges app launch comes a year and a half after the premium department store relaunched its website. Customers who already have a Selfridges account will be able to sync their accounts on the app and access their wish lists and shopping bags on any smart device.

—

Distribution and marketing company Fourmarketing has bought London indie Present out of administration. Bought for an undisclosed sum, the independent retailer, located at 140 Shoreditch High Street, appointed administrators at the start of May. The store will add to the growing retail portfolio for Fourmarketing (currently standing at 15,000 sq ft of retail space), which opened premium fashion store 18Montrose in Glasgow in March, as well as a second 18Montrose store in Nottingham last month.

Present, founded by Steve Davies and Eddie Prendergast in 2009, currently stocks William Fox and Sons, Vetra, Creep and Gant Rugger, and may stock Fourmarketing brands such as Stone Island and CP Company moving forward. It is thought that Prendergast will remain at the store as creative consultant.

—

DESIGUAL EXPANDS WITH WOW CORNERS Spanish lifestyle brand Desigual is expanding with the roll-out of further Wow corners, both in the UK and internationally.

There are currently 200 Wow corners around the world, with the shop-in-shop concepts having recently been made available to UK stores. Typically, Wow corners take up a central location in-store and occupy half of a multi-brand shop, featuring special wall design and flooring as well as the Desigual branding. As a key market for Desigual, the brand offers UK retailers marketing support and help with investment into the Wow corners.

Established in Barcelona in 1984, Desigual is present in over 100 countries through over 500 of its own stores, 7,000 multi-brand stores, 2700 concessions and 11,000 new-category points of sale. It also boasts 23 online stores and eight product categories across womenswear, menswear, kidswear, accessories, shoes, living, sport and beauty.

— ZALANDO TO SEE 70 PERCENT OF SALES COME VIA MOBILE German online retailer Zalando is set to see 70 per cent of its sales come in through mobiles by the end of 2016, as more and more customers turn to smartphones. During the last quarter of 2015, 59.9 per cent of Zalando’s visitors came in through mobile, a 12 per cent increase from the same period in 2014.

“Touch and mobile are standard,” says Christian Müller, head of Zalando’s Media Solutions branch. “When we first started it revolved around SEA and SEO, and then videos on YouTube and television ads. Now, we are moving towards a world where touch and mobile are central – you need to touch visitors, get them excited and have an instant impact on them,” he adds.

— RIVER ISLAND UNVEILS ‘APP EXPERIENCE’ FOR WEARABLES High street retailer River Island has launched a new app for wearables such as Android Wear and the Apple Wear, making it one of the first mass-market retailers to introduce the innovation. The debut app offers a number of features, such as customised feeds of the latest items, and lets users save and view items in their wish list, add them to their shopping bag and seamlessly move to mobile to complete the transaction.

— NEW GLOBAL RETAIL PLATFORM SET FOR JULY LAUNCH A new online retailing platform for independent boutiques is set to launch in July, offering retailers a low-cost international marketplace with a targeted reach of 22 countries in the first phase of its development.

Atterley.com is being launched by investor and non-executive chairman Mike Welch, founder of Blackcircles.com, who bought the IP assets of the business, which went into administration earlier this year. Joining him are CMO Nick Freer, and ‘founding partner’ Sarah Murray, owner of Edinburgh independent Jane Davidson, who will take up an advisory role.

Atterley.com aims to transcend brands and styles and appeal to a wide target customer, with products ranging from independent labels through everyday affordable lines to big brands and high end designers. The business is seeking partner boutiques to join the network, tapping into Atterley.com’s existing consumer database of around 250,000 registered users, 10,000 Instagram followers and 25,000 Facebook followers.

—

GENT

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | ADVICE | 12

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: WHY A COMPREHENSIVE VIEW IS KEY TO OMNICHANNEL PROMOTIONS

ALAN ROBINSON is the general manager at promotions management specialist retailsolutions and can be contacted via www.retailsolutions. ch/en

Retailers look to promotional offers and advertising to raise customer loyalty and satisfaction levels and boost profitability. However, the biggest problem they have is ensuring they run across all channels.

Promotional activity is a complex endeavour, with multiple responsible parties within a retailer feeding into the process. As consumers grow more sophisticated and channels and vendor contracts proliferate, automated planning of promotions and advertising campaigns has become essential to maintain a competitive edge.

The consequences of poorly planned promotions are significant and channel clashes can infuriate loyal customers. To manage truly omnichannel promotions, retailers can improve planning by addressing these three areas.

Greater integration Omnichannel promotions need to work with retailers’ existing systems – for example, they must be checked against the EPOS system to ensure it can run across the full store estate. Conflict analysis at the planning stage and communication within the business, from merchandising to marketing, is key to achieving the right balance of promotions running together.

Creating a single point of access Having access to all promotions on one single system of record will help streamline a retailer’s cross-channel promotions planning and delivery capabilities. Developing a calendar that gives visibility of all active promotions within the system at any one time means everyone associated with campaign management can view activity through same dashboard.

A single view, single point of entry, and single repository for vendor management will help minimise mistakes.

Continuous evaluation Analysis of how promotions are performing within the business is not only a post-campaign activity; it should be integrated into the delivery as well.

Rapid analysis gives a real-time understanding of a promotion’s success, encourages problem solving and avoids any unforeseen and potentially costly clashes.

With these three principles in place, retailers have the power to turn a complex and often fraught process into a streamlined, effective omnichannel campaign. One in which every channel works together to increase every promotion’s effectiveness, rather than inadvertently ‘playing one channel against another’ and damaging the customer’s response and sense of value.

—

WEB WATCH

WWW.KEPTEDITION.COM Launching earlier this year, Kept Edition is a marketplace where up and coming designers sit among international brands, all chosen for their high quality and attention to detail. As well as carefully curating each product on site, the site has been designed with the user in mind.

Shoppers can except to find clean cut, look book style webpages, with editorial style graphical elements. Brands available include Carhartt, Libertine-Libertine and Wireworks.

NEWS

CLOTHING DRIVES ONLINE SALES E-commerce continued its double digit growth this year, with purchases made online racking up a year-on-year increase of 11 per cent in April, bucking the generally sluggish trend on the high street, latest figures by IMRG Capgemini eRetail Sales Index have revealed.

The Index was buoyed by healthy sales in clothing/apparel, which recorded a 15 per cent annual increase, building on a similar year-on-year performance in April 2015. The growth was driven by the continued consumer appetite for accessories and footwear, which reported respective year-on-year increases of 25 per cent and 19 per cent. Lingerie performed most impressively, shooting up to 32 per cent year-on-year; a 19 per cent growth on the previous month.

Other sectors which performed solidly last month include gifts, which grew 16 per cent year-on-year, and home and garden, up by 13 per cent.

However, online sales of alcohol recorded a more disappointing result, with a 13 per cent decline on the same period last year. This is the sixth time in the last eight months that the sector has seen a negative drop as bad weather continues to delay the UK’s BBQ season.

In the mobile sector, smartphone sales continued to surge at the expense of tablet sales. Sales on smartphones grew 83 per cent while tablets grew just 3 per cent, falling way short of the 32 per cent annual growth recorded in April 2015.

However, the conversion rate for tablets was 1.7 percentage points higher than for smartphones.

“The growth in April was probably slightly ahead of where we may have anticipated given the cold weather, with a number of sectors outperforming the total market, including apparel where sales growth was up +15 per cent. Year-todate, overall e-retail growth is actually 2 per cent ahead of our 11 per cent growth forecast for 2016,” says Tina Spooner, chief information officer, IMRG. “A definite trend we have been recording so far this year is the displacement of sales from tablet devices – with sales growth just +3 per cent through these devices – over to smartphones, where sales continue to be very strong. Larger mobile screens and better optimised sites seem to be working to increase confidence in using these devices for a wide range of activities.”

PREMIUM MENSWEAR TRADE SHOW 2 7 & 2 8 J U LY 2 0 1 6

OLD TRUMAN BREWERY LONDON

JACKET-REQUIRED.COM

#JACKETREQD #JACKETREQUIRED

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

—

VIEWPOINT Melissa Wheeler speaks to NIGEL MILLER, the joint store manager at Coes, Maldon. Coes is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

TRADITIONAL WEATHER OPENS ON NEWBURGH STREET Outerwear specialist Traditional Weather is London’s latest addition, opening its doors on Newburgh Street, Carnaby. Offering a selection of classic and contemporary clothing and accessories, the store occupies the ground floor and basement level of a typical terraced house.

A neutral colour palette features throughout the store interior, with wood countertops and polished chrome fixtures. The floor, meanwhile, has been stripped back to the original wood floorboards.

The Newburgh Street store is the only outlet outside of Japan to stock the Traditional Weather collection in its entirety, including both men’s and womenswear.

“Newburgh Street, Carnaby, was chosen for its central London location and unique mix of retailers,” a spokesperson for Traditional Weather said. “The area attracts a mix of young creatives, tourists and media savvy locals, which is the kind of shopper the brand is looking to attract.”

—

NEWS IN BRIEF JONES BOOTMAKER ROLLS OUT STORE REFITS British footwear brand Jones Bootmaker has rolled out a refit programme to its standalone retail branches, kicking off with 15 key locations initially, 12 of which are in central London, with the remaining ones in Leamington Spa, Nottingham and Edinburgh.

The company has appointed international brand communications and retail design agency Mynt with the implementation of the new interior concept, which has been designed around the brand’s British heritage. Jones Bootmaker currently has 118 outlets nationwide, of which 108 are standalone.

—

JACK WOLFSKIN SET FOR FURTHER UK EXPANSION Leading German outdoor brand Jack Wolfskin has relocated its southern showroom and training facility to Towcester in a move that is set to accelerate the brand’s growth in the UK. The brand has been expanding considerably across the UK and Ireland and is planning to further strengthen its presence in the outdoor and lifestyle sector.

Located 10 miles from its previous location in Quinton Green, the new site is a prestigious development set in 80 acres of countryside at Pury Hill Business Park. The setting incorporates high speed communication and IT support, combined with state-of-theart environmentally friendly technology.

—

Despite headlines about the dire start to the season in fashion retail, we actually had a super strong start, with March and April shifting a lot of our a/w stock alongside cotton trousers from Meyer and Sunwill. I am a firm believer that, weather and merchandise aside, it is our excellent customer service which keeps our customers coming back to us and I don’t think retailers should underrate that factor. Most of our customers probably shop for clothes three to four times a year and are very brand loyal, so when they are willing to spend £90 on a pair of trousers, and buy two or three pairs, they are going to want to try them on rather than buy online.

We’ve been mindful of bringing in new blood rather than relying solely on our loyal, regular customer base. We introduced Tommy Hilfiger, Weird Fish and Fred Perry specifically to lure the younger customer which has been very effective. In addition, that customer is now sporting more tailoring and slimmer, fitted shirts which draws them to our bridge brands such as Gant and Olymp.

It’s imperative for us that we can reorder in season and we place a lot of value on a brand carrying stock before we open an account.

We’ve done a great deal of business with BMB, notably Scott suits who have modernised to offer a fantastic range of fashion tailoring. It’s worth noting that 10 years ago the majority of our suits were classic and traditional whereas today that balance has shifted toward the slimmer fashion ranges.

Changes in the way men of all ages are dressing today mean that we have decided to expand our casualwear footwear to cater to the smart casual, sport luxe trend. Chatham, Front and Anatomic are heading up this department; we have had a terrific reaction to the range so far and hope it continues.

Regardless of our strong reputation in an affluent area, we will never rest on our laurels and will continue to adapt and change to thrive. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: GILES HENDERSON It’s been one year now since you moved and rebranded from Six Whiting Street; how has it been?

It’s the best thing I’ve ever done. I’m in a smaller store, in a more prominent location in the town, but with a lot more focus on the market that I want to aim at. Basically I downsized and redirected the business.

What prompted the change?

It’s a very different retail world now, especially for designer stores and with all that’s going on with online. The customer really is king now. They have so much more choice with where and how they GILES HENDERSON SIX MENSWEAR, 20 buy that kind of product. And there’s constant discounting ABBEYGATE STREET, online and in department stores – seemingly every other BURY ST. EDMUNDS, SUFFOLK IP33 1UN weekend.

So had you become a bit disillusioned?

Well it just came to a point where I wasn’t actually buying brands because I was looking forward to it anymore. They were almost like a commodity. I wasn’t enjoying it any more, and I wanted to get back to what I originally started doing which was going out and buying product specifically for my loyal customers in a more targeted way. I didn’t need such a big space to do that. Brands are still very important to me, but it's the right brands that you don’t necessarily find everywhere, and you don’t see them being constantly discounted. I’ve also gone back to doing my own stuff as well, using some factories in Napoli. I’m trying to be more transparent with customers, telling them where the product is actually coming from. And I’ve found that customers really like it. They like a bit of a story.

—

IN FOCUS: MICHAEL CHELL 6-14 ST LEONARDS RD, WINDSOR, WEST BERKSHIRE SL4 3BW

ESTABLISHED: 1974 BRANDS: STONE ISLAND, MONCLER, Y3, KENZO, ARMANI JEANS, RALPH LAUREN, BOSS GREEN, NORSE PROJECTS, OUR LEGACY, AMI, ACNE, T BY ALEXANDER WANG, COMME DES GARÇONS PLAY, VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, RAG AND BONE

MICHAEL KORS OPENS LARGEST FLAGSHIP IN LONDON US label Michael Kors has opened its largest flagship store in Europe on London’s Regent Street.

Located in a landmark building, the store is based on a new design concept combining an elegant, historic façade with a sophisticated modern interior featuring dark Macassar wood floors and tables, shelves of brushed stainless steel, Venetian wallpaper and Calcutta marble fixtures, while a pale, weathered limestone 'runway' leads from the entrance through the entire store.

Set on three floors, the Regent Street flagship will carry every category of Michael Kors product. Distinctive design elements throughout the 16,275 sq ft store highlight and separate key areas of the space, lending each a distinctive character.

The men’s shop is located on the lower level and features custom-built, polished and blackened stainless steel fixtures with grey smoked mirrors and grey marble display cases.

Black-and-white photography and custom seating, along with a full-size pool table, complete the design. The offerings for men include a wide assortment of modern sportswear, suede and leather outerwear, dress shirts and ties, bags and small leather goods.

—

NEWS IN BRIEF Established in 1974, from the beginning Michael Chell has embraced up and coming brands, and was one of the first independents to stock Stone Island, Hugo Boss and Paul Smith. Since that time the shop has grown several times in size and continues with the same ethos. Merchandised by brand, the shop's five rooms each have a different feel created by the brand mix. Acne, Our Legacy, Norse Projects and Rag and Bone might occupy one room, with Moncler, Stone Island, Y3 and CP Company in another. Co-owner and buyer Jay Linturn gains particular inspiration in Paris, and Kenzo, AMI and Comme Des Garçons Play are current favourites. Alongside the more directional brands are luxury T-shirts, polos and knitwear from Sunspel, swim and beachwear from Orlebar Brown and tailoring from Paul Smith, Richard James and Hugo Boss. Second co-owner Nigel Bird says: "We aim to provide first-class service with a personal touch, along with excellent product knowledge from our committed team. We provide a comprehensive selection of stock from classics to high fashion for our diverse customer base.” The shop’s key message: ‘The past bonds us. The future leads us,’ features prominently on the shop's website and carrier bags, highlighting the commitment to core brands and the welcoming of the new.

—

NEW LOOK MEN MAKES SOUTH EAST DEBUT Fast-fashion retailer New Look is to open its first dedicated menswear store in the south east at Bluewater, Europe’s leading retail and leisure destination.

The 4,300 sq ft store will be the largest opening for the brand and is situated on the upper Thames Walk, joining the recently upsized Next and forthcoming 40,000 sq ft H&M flagship.

New Look Men will stock the brand’s complete range of clothing, accessories and shoes, utilising a more masculine approach for its interior, including blackened raw steel, wired glass with rusted steel, raw and polished concrete, and leather and aged copper details.

—

WHERE FASHION COMES TOGETHER

SPRING BEGINNINGS AT MODA GENT Building upon the new-look concept introduced earlier this year, Moda Gent returns to the NEC on 7-9 August with a fresh take on spring style. Taking place alongside Moda Footwear and Moda Woman, Moda Gent is the essential date of the season for the key looks of s/s 17.

—

MODA GENT At the heart of the fashion industry, Moda Gent brings together the spectrum of menswear in an inspirational style showcase. Brands this season include Meyer, Gibson, Gabicci, Brook Taverner, Fynch Hatton, Seidensticker, Eterna, Olymp and Camel Active (pictured).

OUTDOOR LIFESTYLE Newly introduced last season, Outdoor Lifestyle evolves for spring with beach vibe influences, nautical inspiration and the glorious summer colours of the great outdoors. As the UK’s new destination for performance and outdoor apparel, Outdoor Lifestyle presents a range of collections designed in line with summer lifestyles spent at festivals, across the moors and on the decks. New arrivals for summer include surf label Blue Tide and outdoor specialist Rainstar while Alan Paine, Gurteen, Falke, Bladen, Tilley Hats, Magee and Regatta (pictured) will all make a welcome return.

7­—9 AUGUST 2016 NEC BIRMINGHAM

MODA-UK.CO.UK

7­—9 AUGUST 2016

CONTEMPORARY FASHION Having increased its focus on contemporary and street labels, Moda Gent is a destination showcase for dedicated menswear buyers and those seeking urban apparel for a wider lifestyle offer. WeSC, Wrangler, Blend and Casual Friday are just some of the labels to have come on board in recent seasons, and iconic British label Ben Sherman (pictured) will make a welcome debut this season.

BEST OF MEN’S FOOTWEAR Offering a wealth of potential for cross-sector buying, Moda is the only UK trade show to showcase the full spectrum of apparel, footwear and accessories under one roof. Moda Footwear has confirmed an unrivalled line-up of labels this season, including Hush Puppies, Mustang, Bamboo A, Dr Martens, Barker Shoes, Orca Bay, Birkenstock, Fly London, Sebago and Dude Shoes (pictured).

SHARP STYLE & TAILORING Ticking every box when it comes to perfectly fitting shirts and suits, Moda Gent is the national trade destination for tailoring. Delivering sharp style across the age demographics, the show’s portfolio includes brands such as Benvenuto, Digel, Carl Gross, Atelier Torino, Douglas & Grahame and Skopes Menswear (pictured). New arrival Trinity Apparel, meanwhile, will unveil a new concept in made-to-measure tailoring, allowing independent retailers to order bespoke suits through cutting edge technology.

BEYOND THE BUYING As the industry’s national trade hub, Moda is more just than an exhibition.

Offering a wealth of potential for networking, socialising and discovering what’s happening in your industry, the show is an essential date on the calendar for every aspect of life in the menswear trade.

For the full and comprehensive brand list for Moda Gent and Moda Footwear this August 2016 – and details of how to register for your free ticket – visit www.moda-uk.co.uk/gent

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | INTERVIEW | 18

INTERVIEW

ADAM GREEN Sebago is one of those brands that seems to have been around for ever.

In fact it celebrates its 70th anniversary this year, having first launched with hand-sewn penny loafers back in 1946. Rightfully always associated with the leather deck shoe, the brand is constantly updating its back catalogue of designs, introducing new takes on old classics, as Tom Bottomley discovers from Sebago EMEA brand director, Adam Green.

—

Tom Bottomley: How long have you been Sebago’s brand director and what has been your main goal to drive the brand forward?

Adam Green: I have been leading Sebago for the EMEA (Europe, Middle East and Africa) region since Jan 2015. My main goal was to unleash the potential of the brand. I wanted to develop a commercial strategy that worked in harmony across sales, product and marketing – to get all cylinders firing. I am pleased to say that we have seen some fantastic results.

— TB: What have been your main achievements in your time in the Sebago role?

AG: Appointing an incredibly talented team that have been able to drive significant results through hard work, dedication and genuine teamwork. With a passion, belief and desire not only to drive the commercial opportunities for the brand, but also to do what’s right by the brand.

— TB: Sebago is commonly known as one of the original US deck shoe brands, but how do you go about widening the appeal and product ranges?

AG: It’s important that we remain true to our heritage to maintain authenticity. Such a rich brand history is not only our foundation but also a significant asset. With this said we appreciate the need to present contemporary themes, stories and products, all of which complement the brand.

EMEA BRAND DIRECTOR SEBAGO

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | INTERVIEW | 19

We play with colour and material, construction and collaboration to achieve a compelling seasonal offer. Our ‘Ariaprene Docksides’ and ‘Ryde Two Eye’ cupsole construction are a great example of this.

— TB: How is Sebago currently performing in the UK market? What retailers do well with it and what styles are currently key?

AG: We are trading very well. We have activated a 70th anniversary campaign across a multimedia platform and continue to partner with our accounts to trade and support where required.

We have had a particularly great season with Russell and Bromley. Through this channel we have seen fantastic sell through. Where our new programmes are concerned, the real success has centred around the ‘Ariaprene Docksides’ and the ‘Ketch’ tassel loafer.

— TB: Is wholesale growth through independents part of the strategy going forward in the UK? AG: Absolutely. We have a solid strategy in support of our lifestyle and marine independent customers, and we continue to nurture valuable partnerships. UK independent retailers continue to form a critical element of the UK retailing landscape. Generally speaking, their ability to represent the Sebago brand, and provide a genuine customer experience, is still what sets them apart and makes the difference.

— TB: After the massive deck shoe revival of a few years ago, how did you manage to keep the brand appealing to retailers once the trend dimmed?

AG: We’re not a brand that necessarily plays to trend. Our customers value Sebago for our quality, craftsmanship, heritage and authenticity.

Having such strong core values, and a premium position in the market, it’s allowed us to remain relevant. Alongside this we have also invested heavily in marketing in order to partner with our customers and connect more with potential consumers, especially from a digital perspective.

Leveraging social media platforms allows us to remain relevant and get the brand in front of new consumers.

— TB: What new product ranges have been introduced that move away from the deck shoe focus?

AG: We have a number of initiatives that we are

focusing on. We are relaunching our heritage hand-sewn penny loafers. These were the first products that Sebago ever made back in 1946, so we’re re-energising the collection. For a/w 16 we have also sold our ‘Drysides’ collection very well.

This is a classic waterproof line that will form the foundation of our winter collection.

— TB: Is the Sebago archive being utilised to reintroduce some other styles that the brand has made in the past?

AG: As with most heritage brands we reference our back catalogue when relevant, but balance this with looking forward. We have a rich 70-year history so the archives are a good source of inspiration. One of our latest reintroductions is the Gary Jobson Dockside shoe, a very different proposition to the regular Dockside for those that aren’t familiar with it. Those that are close to the world of sailing will know Gary as a world class sailor who has won many championships.

We have launched this story with strategic lifestyle independents for s/s 16. They particularly support the storytelling and heritage associated with this programme. Being able to offer a level of exclusivity with such accounts is a critical element of our partnership.

— TB: How did the brand come about in the first place?

AG: The classic beefroll hand-sewn penny loafer was the first Sebago shoe to be produced in Maine, USA, in 1946. It is made the same way now as it was back then. It was born out of a consumer demand for quality, casual footwear. Daniel J Wellehan Sr was a local owner of five independent shoe stores. Not only did he create and develop the shoe but he also created the factory to make the production.

— TB: What else is happening this year to celebrate the 70th anniversary?

AG: To celebrate our 70th/Platinum anniversary we introduced a special seasonal Dockside colour pack – available right now. The in-sock is stamped with our 70th anniversary logo and we added a platinum coloured branded leather tab to the upper. This will only be available for 2016. The ‘phase 1’ element of our 2016 campaign focused on this collection with strong anniversary messaging. This holistic campaign has seen significant media investment making the brand more visible, and more engaging in celebration of

this special birthday.

— TB: Does Sebago have any standalone stores in the UK? AG: Unfortunately there aren’t any. Our UK retail investments of late have been focused on e-commerce. A bricks and mortar strategy is something that we may look into going forward.

When we’re ready it would most probably be an initiative that we would launch in France, which is actually our largest Sebago market.

— TB: What new products can we expect to see for s/s 17?

AG: We have a new ‘Litesides’ collection. It’s a lightweight programme to play to the huge lightweight movement that is prevalent in the footwear market. We are also relaunching a performance marine programme for our marine based retail partners. This programme offers a full drainage system for those who need something to perform while on a boat. It’s an athletic inspired programme with full mesh uppers, and it’s a collection that we are very excited about. As you would expect, we have also continued to extend our Dockside collection into additional material options, including canvas versions.

— TB: Where will retailers be able to see the new lines?

AG: Our London showroom is always open for appointments, but equally we are happy to visit our retailers. We’re a mobile team. We will also continue to partner with the Moda trade show to present our s/s 17 collection. Last season we created a bespoke stand for Moda and the response, feedback and results were fantastic.

We’ll be taking this same format to the s/s 17 show from 7-9 August.

— TB: What else is happening with Sebago this year that will be of interest to UK independents?

AG: Our a/w 16 line will be a nice surprise for those who traditionally view Sebago as a spring/ summer brand. If you haven’t seen the line it’s definitely worth taking a look. We have winter appropriate hand-sewns, Goodyear welts and the performance waterproof ‘Drysides’ collection, to name a few of our lead programmes. We now have a commercially relevant all year round product offer. We’re looking forward to continued success as we head into a/w 16.

A S I A ’ S P R E M I U M F A S H I O N T R A D E E V E N T

1 2 - 1 4

O C T O B E R T H E H U B . H K

2 0 1 6

S H A N G H A I

C H I N A

E X H I B I T @ T H E H U B . H K

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 21

P R O D U C T

INDIAN FLARE Founded in 2010, the house of Germeii is the brainchild of Shamim AR, a French designer with Indian origins.

Offering printed T-shirts, sweatshirts and accessories, the premium label is sold in high-fashion concept store Colette, and in boutiques in Milan, Seoul and Tokyo. One of the more expensive pieces in the designer’s latest collection is The Passenger backpack, made of crocodile skin, shark skin, python or leather, which can only be bought in Etienne Marcel in Paris, or alternatively from the Germeii website. A recent highlight is the collaboration with French artist DJ Snake, which saw the launch of a bomber jacket and is set to expand into other garments. Currently worn by the likes of Cara Delevingne, Rihanna and Jay-Z, Germeii is certainly one to watch for the coming seasons. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 22

RADAR Spotlighting style

GAME, SET, MATCH

HYPE ESTABLISHED: 2011 HISTORY: Hype was born in the summer of 2011 after two friends decided to create the brand on holiday.

SIGNATURE STYLE: Print T-shirts, caps, accessories and sweatshirts featuring bold prints, vibrant design and a street style aesthetic on an accessible level.

Since its conception five years ago, UK streetwear label Hype has grown quickly from a young aspiring brand to a recognised high street name. The brand’s focus remains on the creation of an overall vibrant aesthetic combined with iconic patterns. Bold prints and eyecatching design is at the core of the brand’s DNA, and this is expanded on further in its s/s 16 collection. The new line presents clashing designs and colours and clothing that makes a statement through its use of slogans on the back of jackets. Collection items progress into the realms of cut and sew, though the brand remains consistent with its streetwear origin. The line also presents a more mature selection of apparel including premium sweats, button up shirts and an eclectic mix of short and long sleeved T-shirts featuring panelled sides and mismatched graphics – some of which are completed with matching shorts and headwear. A wide collection of outerwear featuring outlandish colours and the classic brand aesthetic, designs and logos are also available. Pieces in the outerwear category maintain an effortless vibe and, as a contrast to other collection items, feature understated Hype logos on jacket breasts.

For the a/w 16 season, Björn Borg looks to the tennis racquet and court for inspiration, with silhouettes of the racquet forming the cut lines and panelling within the collection.

The idea of court lines also manifests in different ways through the performance collections, used as an inspiration for colour blocking, fabric blocking and reflective lines. The latter can, for instance, be found on the range’s black running jackets, with a single reflective tape down the back. As the brand continues to move into sports fashion, another focus has been functionality.

Among other smart solutions, buyers can expect to find windproof leggings and Thinsulate padded jackets.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 23

PRODUCT NEWS TOKYO NIGHTS Swedish brand Elvine continues to look east for its design inspiration, with Toyko being the latest city to capture its attention.

Japan is evident in all patterns and prints in the collection, bringing both tradition and innovation together.

Classic wood engravings of Japanese landscapes and graphic kimono patterns, for example, work together with Japanese animals, the country’s flag, symbols and signs.

The colour palette, meanwhile, is dominated by shades of grey and purple, the colour of Tokyo’s city flag. Moreover, fabrics are robust, such as thick wool and wool-mixes with reflective surfaces and scuba material.

—

MAKING WAVES With over two decades of testing their products Volcom have scrutinised every thread, choice of fabric and design to create a balance in function and style. For 2016 the brand has expanded their boardshort segmentation into three offerings – Mod Tech, Slingers and Jammers – to accommodate all personalities and lifestyles.

New branding and design signatures feature on complementary print and colour stories, all on premium and distinctive 4-way stretch fabrics, coated to reduce water absorption. In addition, Clinch Fly design eliminates the traditional hook and loop velcro for maximum comfort with minimal bulk.

—

>>>

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

CALIFORNIA DREAMING For this season, California-based label SLVDR offers a selection of light jackets, hoodies, short-sleeve button-up shirts and shorts that make for effortlessly casual, everyday attire.

The collection was inspired by the materials found in architecture and furniture design, such as the textural contrasts between steel, concrete and wood grains, which is exemplified by the use of mixed fabrics. Key items include the Alder Grey Zip-Up hoodie, the Bishop Blue sweater, and Redwood collared shirts, which feature subtle patterns like stripes and camo.

This season the brand also introduces its new subsidiary line, ‘SLVDR RWB’, which stands for ‘Red, White and Blue’, and indicates the label’s US-made goods.

Moving forward, SLVDR RWB will be offering separate capsule collections that will be made right in its backyard.

—

D1 MILANO Stocked at the likes of Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Choice, Autograph and 10 Montrose, D1 Milano provides a minimalistic aesthetic at an affordable price point. Using innovative raw materials and colours, the brand creates its own particular style with strong classic Italian DNA. Materials are lightweight, made in a polycarbon polymer coated with a manually applied soft touch coating.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PRODUCT NEWS | 24

RADAR Spotlighting style

CITY LIVING

CHEAP MONDAY

Outerwear specialist S4 presents a comprehensive collection of jackets, down parkas, coats and knitted jackets with detachable waistcoats. Down touch waddings, real down and lightweight down in a variety of quilts protect against cold spells, while Italian knitted wool and cotton add a premium finish. In terms of colour, the a/w 16 collection utilises lighter shades such as taupe and grey, next to more autumnal shades such as dark navy, olive, cabernet red and chocolate.

— NEWS

ESTABLISHED: 2004 HISTORY: Named Tight, the first Cheap Monday style was an unwashed, tight fit stretch denim jean and was sold exclusively as an in-store brand at the Stockholm-based retailer Weekday.

SIGNATURE STYLE: The brand first started out offering its trademark tight denim with a characteristic skull logo; the collection has expanded since then but maintains this look at the core of its collections.

Cheap Monday started out as an exclusive in-store brand at Stockholm retailer Weekday.

Since then the brand has developed and now can be found in more than 1,800 stores and 35 countries around the world. However, this established brand takes a new direction for a/w 16 with its Bad Nerd collection. With the aim of celebrating the inner nerd, the collection is inspired by a stereotypical geek aesthetic. Clashing colour combinations, awkward patterns and garments with a hand-me-down look feature throughout the line.

The new line also takes inspiration from Scouts, with patches and badges used on garments.

Geometric shapes and contrast stitching sit alongside an eye-catching optic dogtooth print, all in seasonal colours such as orange and teal. Overall, silhouettes are refined, showcasing a more fitted and shrunken look with standout pieces seen in a jacquard knit.

Other key details are seen in the finer details such as the badges and contrast stitching. In denim the seasonal offer reflects an overall shrunken look and tinted denim, with a worn look and repair embroideries in off-colour threads.

THOMAS PINK UNVEILS EXCLUSIVE TEAM GB COLLECTION This summer will see Thomas Pink – part of the Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton group – unveil an officially licensed Team GB collection, comprising formal and casual shirts, ties, socks and cufflinks.

The range will reflect the quintessentially British style of the iconic Jermyn Street shirt maker.

“Thomas Pink is renowned for its unrivalled Jermyn Street expertise and modern styling and introducing such a prestigious brand to our licensed offering will offer a fantastic opportunity to our fans to show their support for Team GB – ahead of Rio,” says Simon Massie-Taylor, commercial director of the British Olympic Association.

Jonathan Heilbron, president and chief executive of Thomas Pink adds: “We’re a patriotic brand with a sporting passion, so it’s an honour and a privilege to be given the opportunity to create a collection that celebrates and supports home-grown talent on a global scale. The new collection will feature our new Athletic Fit shirt – an innovative slim fit shirt with broad shoulders and a slim waist.”

—

NEW! Men’s Footwear

A STEP UP IN COMFORT TECHNOLOGY sollufootwear.com See us at Moda, 7 - 9 August 2016, Stand B19 Hall 17

by Oh Pair Footwear Ltd. Tel: +44 20 8287 1018/mob +44 7889 458457 sales@ohpairfootwear.com Sollu UK

SolluUK

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 26

SCHOTT NYC £102 020 7481 2418

HACKETT PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7494 417

BELLFIELD £38.50 0161 230 7312

SAMSOE & SAMSOE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3137 3901

LIBERTINE-LIBERTINE £244 020 8983 5691

BARACUTA PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7494 4959

NATIVE YOUTH £40 0161 835 2064

THE PERSUADERS A softer alternative to a leather jacket, suede outerwear is one of the more stylish elements from the 70s trend still insisting on hanging around. From bomber jackets to safari styles, the versatility of suede means it works on a variety of silhouettes – just be sure to prep it in case of a typical British downpour.

— Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

SCOTCH & SODA £153.80 020 3137 3901

LUKE £130 01869 366580

OLIVER SPENCER £276 020 7831 6323

www.douglasmenswear.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 28

GARMENT PROJECT £46 WWW.GARMENTPROJECT.COM VANS £52 0800 234 6152

FOOTLOOSE AND FANCY FREE Pared-back trainers have developed into a major fashion trend this season, with key labels offering simple monochrome colour palettes, uncomplicated designs and premium finishes.

—

CAYLER & SONS £51.61 020 7012 1420

FISH ‘N’ CHIPS £18 020 8532 0000

JIM RICKEY £44.44 07799 030009

PALLADIUM £20 07557 163259

BLOOD BROTHERS £76 020 7729 5005

ANTONY MORATO £66.40 07539 508095

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

INDX MENSWEAR SS17

A bespoke trade show exclusively for indie retailers

27-28 July 2016

• 6th Sense • 33 Joints • Baileys • Ben Green • Ben Sherman • Blue Tide • Brakeburn • Bruhl • Camel Active • Colours & Sons • Craghoppers • Crew Clothing • Cyberjammies Man • Dice • Digel • Double Two • Drew Brady • Eterna • Failsworth • Farah • Fulton • Fynch Hatton • Gas Monkey Garage • Gianni Conti • Giordano • Gurteen • Hattric • HJ Hall • Hymn • Ice Peak • Jack Wolfskin • Jockey • JT Ascott • Lerros • Lloyd Attree • Luhta • MMandS • Meyer • Old Guys Rule • Original Penguin • Osan • Peter England • Peter Gribby • Peter Werth • Redpoint • Rocola • Rupert & Buckley • Scott

by The Label • Seidensticker • Skopes • Souled Out • Tootal • Totes • Trespass • Viyella • Weird Fish • Wrangler Plus many more

REGISTER ONLINE NOW www.indxshow.co.uk

FREE ENTRY FREE REFRESHMENTS FREE LUNCH FREE ON SITE PARKING Cranmore Park Exhibition Centre, Cranmore Avenue, Shirley, Solihull, B90 4LF T: 0121 683 1417

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | EXHIBITIONS | 31

SHOW GUIDE: SPRING/SUMMER 2017

LONDON // FLORENCE // BERLIN // PARIS >>>

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PITTI UOMO | 32

PITTI UOMO The 90th edition of the Florence menswear fair at the famous Fortezza da Basso is certainly one to look forward to, with an ever growing and diverse selection of brands to whet buyers’ taste buds for the new s/s 17 buying season. Here’s a selection of some to keep an eye out for.

— WEEKEND OFFENDER For s/s 17 Weekend Offender, with its second ever showing at Pitti, is staying true to its identity, offering functional, yet refined and easy to wear pieces. Included are lighter weight specialised fleece styles, with technical trims for an active utility feel. Sharp, angular lines and colour blocks in classic red, white and blue give a number of styles a feel of sporting nostalgia. Nylon mix overshirts are perfect for cooler summer evenings, while elsewhere the brand has reworked its classic prison logo for the ‘Bishop’ tee and ‘Manhattan’ sweatshirt. A range of graphic tees and sweats with bold prints in bright seasonal colours work seamlessly alongside super-fine marl piques and metallic yarn mix outerwear fabrics.

Two standout jackets are ‘Modernista’ and ‘Singapore Sling’, made in a fabric specially developed by Weekend Offender. Lightweight nylon and metallic yarns have been woven together to create a crisp, effervescent finish.

The fabric for ‘Modernista’ helps to accentuate the slick finish for this semi-tailored shirt/jacket.

Jersey lined and with cargo pockets to the chest, it’s functional yet clean. Meanwhile, ‘Singapore Sling’ is a refined bomber style, with a zip-away hood and invisible chest pocket, perfect for day and night-time manoeuvres.

VICTORINOX Working with traditional techniques crafted using innovative technology, Victorinox is again emphasising the balance of modern and heritage together for s/s 17. The previous season’s nod to workwear is being updated with innovative fabrics and extended technical construction such as sonic welding, soft seam sealing and 3D body mapping. It is this combination of classic silhouettes with modern craftsmanship that will appeal to forward thinking retailers and customers alike.

Taking the ‘Swiss Lab’ of Victorinox’s birthplace as the core source of inspiration, the designers have used materials collected throughout the various destinations visited. From the Vitra Design Museum to the Copper Bar, colour and design details created include stitch techniques for sweaters and patterns for shirting. Graphic posters showcased at The Neue Museum give concepts for prints and patterns to help bond all apparel categories towards a unified line.

For the season’s limited edition capsule collection, the key message of ‘Weathering the Storm’ runs throughout the offer.

Each style utilises water resistant fabrications and is constructed with seam sealing details to enhance its stormproof properties.

From the ‘Artisan Chore Coat’ to the ‘Work Jean’, these pieces are designed to keep wearers protected from the elements in style and comfort.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PITTI UOMO | 33

TRICKER’S

CHAMPION New graphic stories feature in Champion’s s/s 17 Reverse Weave collection. In addition to the classic ‘Basic Line’, Champion is introducing new pieces such as ‘PP Spray’. A key style for the new season, the sweatshirt is garment dyed and then manually sprayed for a vintage, yet dramatically summery effect.

The ‘Palm Beach’ line offers all over palm motifs on products, while the ‘Colour Block’ line is another new addition to the offer for next spring. The classic Champion ‘All Over’ logo printing is also reinvented using full script logos.

One of the main new areas of the collection is the ‘Indigo’ line, using a special dyeing technique, for rich hues that fade more slowly, wash after wash. The final area of the collection is the casual jackets. The classic coach jacket is refreshed with an internal all over print, while a reversible bomber jacket offers the choice between a plain side featuring the classic logo, and the reverse side with an all-over logo print.

Pitti is, as ever, a key show for the historic Northampton footwear company, with international buyers flocking to check out new developments in the classic styles. The key highlights for s/s 17 focus on new materials, namely styles in earthy tones made from a unique vegetable tanned leather that uses olive leaves for a more sustainable tanning process.

Also being introduced is a natural grain crust leather that goes through all stages of production untreated before the uppers are hand stained using a water-stain leather dying cream. This gives the finished shoe a natural softness and rich vibrant colour: a palette of denim blue, purple and green that brings a real impact to the collection.

The other key feature of the s/s17 range is an unlined, deconstructed collection in soft suedes and leathers. Still using the traditional Goodyear welted construction techniques, Tricker’s has adapted the leather soles to make them ultra-flexible, thus enabling them to be worn in a more relaxed fashion.

EDEN PARK

GRENFELL

For nearly 30 years now, Eden Park has been espousing the French-style premium preppy look, and s/s 17 is a refined range with a new definition on male elegance.

The Parisian company with the pink bow tie has produced a s/s 17 collection designed around travel. This season the ‘Club’ line takes inspiration from the ‘Rainbow Nation’: South Africa, from Camps Bay Beach to Cape Town. The range offers simplicity and perfect cutting, with emphasis on traditional looks, quality materials and attention to the finer details.

Quality materials, unstructured cuts, jackets with simple lines, over-jackets, padded waistcoats and shirts worn over loose trousers are set to give a stylish but relaxed look. Linen, nylon and cotton are the materials for the season, also used for parkas and raincoats. The colours are natural – beige, brown, grey, khaki green and blue – and denim becomes a very strong theme, for both the city and the beach, with new shapes and new textures. The classic jean shirt for the city is now printed for an even more casual look. For the beach, prints are a focus, with floral, jacquard and military themes emphasised in all the products; shirts, polo shirts, T-shirts, windcheaters and swimming trunks.

The Grenfell s/s 17 collection is made in England at the brand’s very own London factory. This season, the ‘Golfer’ jacket, a precursor to the Harrington that has been produced

by Grenfell since 1931, sees a full colour treatment. Blues, reds, oranges, olives and greys complement the established palette of Grenfell’s famous cloth. Inspired by Sir Wilfred Grenfell’s native missionary work on the Labrador Coast of North America, ornate Inuit embroidery features heavily on two shirts and a jacket.

Other areas take inspiration from the Grenfell ‘Mountain’ jacket, originally produced for Harrods in the 1950s, and from outdoor pursuits. A standout cape is made from both Grenfell cloth and lightweight technical fabrics, while lightweight bomber jackets, parkas and M65-style field jackets get a luxury overhaul with regimental collars, trims and embroidery.

The Grenfell ‘Bluebird Collection’, inspired by Sir Malcolm Campbell and his son Sir Donald Campbell, Grenfell wearers who broke several world records for speed on land and water (in Bluebird cars and boats), blends tailored menswear with contemporary sporty silhouettes for the new season.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PREVIEW | 35

BERLIN EVOLUTION Not one to remain stagnant in the ever-changing world of fashion, Berlin trade show Panorama is set to unveil a series of new product areas for its s/s 17 edition, including an increased focus on shoes and accessories and the launch of a new concept, HIPSTAR – an area dedicated to the plus size industry.

Jörg Wichmann, CEO of Panorama Berlin, tells MWB what’s next for the German show.

—

What can we expect from the upcoming edition of Panorama?

After the successful launch of the NOVA CONCEPT area, we decided to restructure the core segments for the upcoming season. We will separate the segments from one another so they are clearly distinct and offer unique, target group-specific worlds. With MODERN MAN (Hall 2), we will present an entire hall exclusively for men’s fashion. Moreover, we will present our offer for young women under the heading STYLE HUB in Hall 1. The URBAN LAB, meanwhile, will get an additional hall to present an increased offer of denim and casualwear, while COSMOPOLITAN in Hall 6 is our new area of upscale women’s fashion.

What prompted this change to an already successful show?

Firstly, we are inspired by the retail market and by the buyers, who unfortunately have less and less time. We have to make the offerings and their placement within the show very clear, so that visitors can orientate themselves faster and see and take care of what they came here for in the first place. But since our goal is to create added value, we would like to show retailers something new to inspire them, and we hope this will give visitors more time and a chance to really see all the segments.

Retail continues to be tough, both in the UK and Europe. How do you plan on inspiring and informing retailers this s/s 17 season?

As a fashion trade show service company, our

main task is to create a platform that presents the relevant collections together with buyer-oriented services. We considered it our task to provide inspiration and ideas that can enthuse and inspire retailers to buy into new things. This doesn’t just mean new collections, but it’s about offering alternatives, which we’re doing with NOVA CONCEPT, where we present a lifestyle arena for non-textile products.

To what extent do you think lifestyle products can fuel the fashion retail trade?

Today, fashion is more than just owning the right pair of jeans or shoes; it is also about having the right headphones, tea, bicycle or skateboard. As a consumer, the bricks-and-mortar retail trade needs to trigger enthusiasm and broaden your horizons; it needs to present things that are surprising but easily fit into daily life.

Last season you introduced a new area exclusively for shoes and accessories. What can we expect from this area for s/s 17?

Shoes and accessories are part of fashion like the air we breathe. We wanted to make that clear with a dedicated hall, which will welcome an additional hall in the coming season, fully focusing on this segment and on presenting trending topics.

Could you explain more about the new area, HIPSTAR? With HIPSTAR, we present an area for plus-size fashion for the first time. In Hall 7B, we have created a special world for HIPSTAR’s premiere;

this segment will have 1,100 sq m with over 20 key brands. We are pleased to finally be able to fulfil a longstanding wish of our visitors and to present a portfolio of the most relevant brands in this area.

Has the launch of virtual fashion trade show Panorama Digital been a success?

We are very pleased. So far, with over 60,000 visitors from around the world, the digital platform has enjoyed slightly more visitors than the three trade show days themselves. Now we will continue with the process of developing and optimising Panorama Digital. It’s an additional tool for our visitors and exhibitors, and also for us as organisers, but it doesn’t replace attending Panorama Berlin. The trade show is where business and buyers meet and people get the chance to talk. Virtual reality will never replace reality, but it will add a little something extra to the show.

What else is new for the s/s 17 season?

Since it’s summer, we will set up the popular Street Market again, directly in front of the main entrance. We will create a relaxed atmosphere here with live acts and other activities that will bring visitors and exhibitors together. Exchanging information is extremely important. We know that most retailers don’t necessarily feel like partying, but it is also part of our business, since fashion is an expression of joie-de-vivre and culture.

— Panorama Berlin will take place on 28-30 June 2016 at ExpoCenter City, 14055 Berlin.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PREVIEW | 36

COMMUNITY SERVICE Two of Berlin’s key tradeshows, SEEK and Bright, will once again come together under one roof to offer an inspiring line-up of urban and contemporary menswear – this season putting the focus on creating a community between brands, buyers and consumers.

— Taking place on 28-30 June 2016, Berlin tradeshow SEEK will be showcasing ranges from over 280 handpicked brands for spring/ summer 2017, with up to 500 collections across the segments Modern Menswear, Upper Streetwear, Elevated Sportswear, New Classics and Authentic Designer Collections.

The portfolio, which is made up of 80 per cent international brands, and which is mainly focused on the field of contemporary menswear, will be complemented by a handpicked selection of womenswear collections, as well as lifestyle products and tech gadgets.

The focus this season, however, is firmly on community. Both SEEK and Bright, the street and skate show which takes place at the Arena Berlin on the same dates, will offer a spectrum of events across the three-day fair open to both trade and consumer. These include the SEEK party, which will join forces with both Bright and media partner Highsnobiety, and a Bright panel discussion on the subject of how streetwear and skateboarding influence current fashion trends.

One of the show’s highlights is set to be Sneaker Spot by Hikmet Sugoer in collaboration with eBay, which is an on and offline market where sneaker collectors offer their limited edition pieces to sneaker lovers. Consumers will be welcomed to the fair to experience the concept directly, or to stream it live over their smartphone.

The Sneaker Spot was originally created by eBay.de in October 2015 and now offers more than 1,300 models of shoe, encompassing a high variety of products and boasting an impressive expertise when it comes to sneakers.

“In times of transition and uncertainty, which go hand in hand with changes, trade shows act as the ideal arena where the industry players can meet, exchange ideas, inform themselves and do business,” says Anita Tillman, founder of Premium, parent company of SEEK and Bright. “Nowhere else can you meet up with your existing network of contacts in such a targeted way, while benefiting from the chance to make new contacts and generate new business.

“We invest in developing our offer and services in order to create the perfect platform to serve the current needs of the industry. We see ourselves as a marketplace, a community platform and a content provider at the same time. Clients need to be met and inspired, but above all, informed of the relevant market news.

Therefore, for each of the platforms we created a very special target-focused strategy to serve the client with the right set-up, environment and relevant news,” she adds.

For the forthcoming edition buyers can expect to see brands such as Alpha Industries, Original Penguin, Barleycorn, Rivieras, Grenfell and Lupe, among many more new and returning names.

For further information or to register for the show, visit www.seekexhibitions.com.

SEEK & BRIGHT 28-30 JUNE 2016, ARENA BERLIN, 12435 BERLIN

c o n t e m p o R A Ry fA s h i o n t R A d e s h o w

28 - 30 June 2016 A R e n A B e Rl i n

w w w. s e e k e x h i Bi t i o n s . c o m

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | BRANDS | 39

FRENCH DRESSING With buyers descending on Paris next month for the likes of Capsule, MAN and Tranoï, MWB highlights some of the French brands to consider in-store this coming season, from the heritage of Armor-Lux to the effortlessly cool AMI. —

ARMOR-LUX

HARTFORD

A.P.C

ARMOR-LUX

A.P.C

Established in 1938, Armor-Lux is famed for its signature Breton stripe, worn by screen, arts and music stars such as James Dean, Andy Warhol, Picasso and Idris Elba. With stockists including Oi Polloi, Colette, Dover Street Market and End Clothing, the brand continues to build on its Heritage Collection. This line tells the history of its birthplace of Brittany, bringing traditional knitting techniques back to life on selected pieces. Expect French nautical inspired classics such as long and short sleeved stripe tops, fisherman jackets and classic knits.

—

Launched back in 1987, A.P.C is French style at its best. Created by Tunisian-Jewish designer Jean Touitou, the DNA of the brand remains muted, pared-back and form-flattering. Denim has become a staple within A.P.C’s offering, from the first pair of raw selvedge jeans created by Touitou in 1987, containing a secret ingredient known only by the designer’s closest friends, to the launch of the Butler worn-out series. Based on a time when a butler would break in new clothes and shoes for his master, customers are able to bring in their used A.P.C denim and trade them in for a pair of new jeans at half the price.

The pre-loved jeans are reconditioned (washed and repaired where necessary) and then sold.

—

AMI Deriving from the initials and last letter of its founder’s name, Alexandre Mattiussi – who previously cut his teeth at the likes of Dior, Givenchy and Marc Jacobs – AMI was founded in 2011 in Paris. Offering a smart, comprehensive wardrobe of both casual and formal pieces, the brand currently has 300 stockists worldwide, with three standalone stores in Paris, one in Tokyo and a brand new opening, located on Duke Street in London’s Mayfair.

—

HARTFORD Hartford’s history stretches back to 1979 in New York, when ex-Hermes designer Yves Chareton arrived with the intention of recreating vintage American shirts he was finding in flea markets, from Oxford cotton button-downs to chambray work shirts. Mixing vintage European styles with a more relaxed American aesthetic, over the years the label gained a cult following for its

SAINTPAUL

AMI

easy-to-wear pieces, which are perfect for dressing down – think Parisian cool with an informal edge. Sold through 11 freestanding stores in France, as well as the likes of Mr Porter, Le Bon Marché and Le Printemps in Paris, Barneys in New York, Ron Herman in Los Angeles and Isetan in Tokyo, the brand currently has 38 independent stockists within the UK market.

—

SAINTPAUL Created by designer Jung Ho Geortay, SaintPaul is a playful label offering shirts, T-shirts and jackets for both men and women. Taking obvious pleasure in toying with the standards of textile design, buyers can expect skilful placement of unexpected elements into Geortay’s motifs. All shirts are cut and assembled by hand, with the highest craftsmanship, designed to delight more avant-garde dressers. SaintPaul can currently be found in the likes of Bergdorf Goodman in the USA, Lemon Shop in Italy and Harvey Nichols Hong Kong this coming season, among a number of other key international stockists.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PREVIEW | 40

AT THE SOURCE Leading manufacturing show Fashion SVP is set to open its doors later this month, showcasing some of the world’s best garment producers from near-shore territories. Catering for both high volume players as well as bespoke and individual orders from independent retailers, the show is a must-visit for anyone thinking of launching their own fashion label.

—

The UK’s leading sourcing show Fashion SVP will open its doors for the fifth time from 28 to 29 June at London’s Olympia. Established in 2011, the show has grown rapidly since its inception and now welcomes more than 100 carefully selected garment and accessory manufacturers from 15 countries. The growing popularity and significance of the show is attributed to its focus on near-shore production, with exhibitors from countries such as Turkey, Egypt, Portugal, Italy, Romania, Spain, France and not least the UK itself showcasing their manufacturing capabilities and expertise.

“Fashion SVP is the fastest growing fashion trade event in the UK, if not Europe, with 40 per cent growth year on year,” says event director Buzz Carter. “With brands producing more and more collections a year, near-shore sourcing has proved increasingly popular thanks to the obvious benefits such as a reduction in lead times, a shorter supply chain and ultimately lower costs, so a lot of brands are now looking closer to home to meet their production needs.

“Fashion SVP brings together top quality manufacturers from across the near-shore territories all under one roof, enabling visitors to source directly from some of the best producers in the world, as well as connect with experts in this field and tap into the huge knowledge and skillset they can offer,” he adds.

From high quality womenswear, menswear and childrenswear – including specialist sectors such as knitwear, jerseywear, outerwear, denim, tailoring, activewear, swimwear, lingerie, hosiery and accessories – all areas of garment production will be covered.

“Our exhibitors can cater to every need, whether that is high volume production for high street players or more bespoke orders for top end designers. Equally, many of the suppliers can work with small and individual orders, and which is ideal for independent retailers looking to launch their own labels at low volumes, a trend we have increasingly noticed at the show,” says Carter.

Visitors will be able to explore what each of the manufacturers can offer. Ranging from simple sewing to full service garment production, this includes design services, pattern cutting, grading and sampling, plus specialist services such as embellished garment production, dye and shrinkage testing and fabric sourcing. In particular, there will be a strong presence from Turkish, Egyptian and Portugese manufacturers in special country showcases, highlighting the countries’ most skilled producers.

Fashion SVP will also host a number of show features, including the popular ‘Sourcing Briefing’ seminar series, with experts representing Thomas Pink, Kit and Ace, the Ethical Fashion Forum, Harveen Gill Associates, MI Heaven Denim and YKK Europe already confirmed for the line-up and ready to share insider knowledge on essential sourcing and production topics.

New to this year’s edition is ‘Innovations Focus’, an area providing the latest news on technical and product innovation, presenting an exciting 3D printing display where visitors can learn about the impact the technology has had on fashion manufacturing to date and where this development will lead in the future. This area will include a display of 3D printed catwalk fashion, assisted by sector pioneers Electrobloom, Hobs Studios and 3D Systems.

—

For more information, a full exhibitor line-up or to register for the show visit www.fashionsvp.com

MOQ only 4 bottles. 1 free bottle with orders placed before August

www.gruhme.co.uk

THE ESSENTIAL RESOURCE FOR THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK NEWS • RETAIL • BRANDS • OPINION • FEATURES • PEOPLE

• EVENTS

Make mwb-online.co.uk your daily source if essential fashion industry information - it’s only a click away To advertise on mwb-online.co.uk call Sharon Le Goff on 01484 846069 or email sharon@ras-publishing.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | EXHIBITION CALENDAR | 42

EXHIBITION CALENDAR From the UK to Europe, the US to the Far East, MWB presents your essential rundown of the shows to visit for spring/summer 2017.

Sponsored by:

PITTI UOMO

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN 10-13 June 2016 180 The Strand, London 020 7759 1999 www.londoncollections.co.uk —

PITTI UOMO

14-17 June 2016 Fortezza Da Basso, Florence 0039 5509 491861 www.pittimmagine.com —

CAPSULE PARIS

25-27 June 2016 Maison de la Mutualité 24 Rue Saint-Victor, 75005 Paris 001 212 206 9310 www.capsuleshow.com —

MAN PARIS

25-27 June 2016 25 Rue Yes Toudic, Paris 10 0033 (0)1 4367 2752 www.man-woman.co

TRANOI HOMME

25-27 June 2016 Palais de la Bourse, 72002 Paris 0033 (0)1 5301 8490 www.tranoi.com —

SEEK

SEEK

SHOW & ORDER

28-30 June 2016 Eichenstraße 4 12435 Berlin 0049 (0)30 2088 913400 www.seekexhibitions.com —

PANORAMA

28-30 June 2016 Eichenstraße 4 12435 Berlin 0049 (0)69 669 621 57 www.brighttradeshow.com —

27-29 June 2016 Kraftwerk Berlin-Mitte Köpenicker Str. 70, 10179 Berlin 0049 (0)30 577 04181 www.showandorder.de — 28-30 June 2016 ExpoCentre City, Berlin 0049 (0)30 2759 56040 www.panorama-berlin.com —

PREMIUM

28-30 June 2016 Station-Berlin Luckenwalder Strasse 4-6, 10963 Berlin 0049 (0)30 2088 91330 www.premiumexhibitions.com

BRIGHT

FASHION SVP

28-29 June 2016 Olympia London, Kensington London 020 8771 3555 www.fashionsvp.com —

MODEFABRIEK

10-11 July 2016 Amsterdam RAI, Europaplein 8

1078 GZ Amsterdam 0031 (0)2044 21960 www.modefabriek.nl —

LIBERTY FAIRS NEW YORK 10-12 July 2016 Pier 94, New York 001 212 473 4523 www.libertyfairs.com —

CAPSULE NEW YORK 10-12 July 2016 Pier 92, 711 12th Ave 10019 New York 001 212 206 9310 www.capsuleshow.com —

MAN NEW YORK

10-12 July 2016 Artbeam, 540 West 21st Street 10011 New York 0033 (0)1 4366 5703 www.man-woman.co

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | EXHIBITION CALENDAR | 43

THE HUB

JACKET REQUIRED

MODA GENT

PROJECT NEW YORK

17-19 July 2016 Jacob K Javits Center, New York 001 218 740 7092 www.magiconline.com —

MRKET

17-19 July 2016 Jacob K Javits Center, New York 001 203 853 6015 www.mrketshow.com —

PURE LONDON

24–26 July 2016 Olympia London, Kensington London 0203 033 2500 www.purelondon.com —

GDS

26-28 July 2016 Messe Dusseldorf, Germany 0049 (0)21 1456 07606 www.gds-online.com —

INDX MENSWEAR SHOW 27-28 July 2016 Cranmore Park, Solihull West Midlands 0121 683 1434 www.indxshow.co.uk —

JACKET REQUIRED

27-28 July 2016 The Old Truman Brewery, Brick Lane, London

info@jacket-required.com www.jacket-required.com —

MODA GENT

7–9 August 2016 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk —

MODA FOOTWEAR 7–9 August 2016 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk —

CIFF

10–12 August 2016 Bella Centre, Centre Boulevard 5 Copenhagen 0045 (0)3247 2213 www.ciff.dk —

CIFF RAVEN

10–12 August 2016 Bella Centre, Centre Boulevard 5 Copenhagen 0045 (0)3247 2213 www.ciff.dk —

REVOLVER

10-12 August 2016 Meatpacking District, Tietgensgade 65, DK-1704 Copenhagen V 0045 (0)3964 8586 www.revolver.dk

IMC

WHO’S NEXT?

CAPSULE LAS VEGAS

THEMICAM

14-15 August 2016 Whittlebury Hall Northamptonshire 01473 256061 www.imcmenswear.co.uk — 15-17 August 2016 The Venetian Ballroom 3355 S Las Vegas Blvd 89109 Las Vegas 001 212 206 9310 www.capsuleshow.com —

LIBERTY FAIRS LAS VEGAS 15-17 August 2016 Sands Expo, Venetian, Las Vegas 001 212 473 4523 www.libertyfairs.com —

MAGIC

15-17 August 2016 Mandalay Bay Convention Centre Las Vegas 001 877 554 4834 www.magiconline.com —

CPM MOSCOW

31 August-3 September 2016 Expocenter Fairgroup Moscow 0049 (0)2114 396312 www.cpm-moscow.com

2-5 September 2016 Parc des expositions de la Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 (0)1 4013 7483 www.whosnext-tradeshow.com — 3-6 September 2016 Fieramilano, Milan 0039 (0)243 8291 www.micamonline.com —

LONDONEDGE

4-6 September 2016 Business Design Centre Upper Street London 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com —

TRANOI NEW YORK

17-19 September 2016 The Tunnel, Chelsea, New York 0033 (0)1 5301 8490 www.tranoi.com —

THE HUB

12-14 October 2016 Central Studios, Xintiandi Shanghai www.thehub.hk —

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | INTERVIEW | 44

ROUTED IN ETHICS This year marks the 25th anniversary of the Fair Trade clothing label People Tree. Following on from years of tireless campaigning for ethical practice in fashion production, the brand’s founder Safia Minney shares with Rebecca Jackson what drives her and the label’s success.

—

Rebecca Jackson: You’ve launched a new book, Slow Fashion: Aesthetics Meets Ethics. What inspired you to write it?

Safia Minney: There’s been this huge movement in ethical fashion since the Rana Plaza building collapse, and it also coincides with People Tree’s 25th anniversary since I started the brand in Japan. We’ve looked at a huge development of a movement which used to be very minor and very fringe into something which is now incredibly significant in terms of the designers and retailers who are involved with it.

We have some really beautiful eco-concept stores now around the world and I’ve spent the past four years developing the European market for People Tree. I’ve been absolutely blown away by the most incredible people who are opening stores which reflect their values. For me, the book echoes the excitement of how fast the industry is moving.

RJ: You speak about a ‘rebirth’ of the new, global Slow Fashion movement – what does this mean?

SM: It’s a coming of age of the fairtrade and

sustainable fashion industry, which for me is really exciting. We’re seeing a lot of discussion now; the whole concept of time is an issue; we have to slow things down.

The evolution of slow fashion has become massive and has really given consumers the opportunity to think about what they want to buy and how disposable it is. It’s also given brands and companies the opportunity to clean up their act and look at their supply chain to be sure that they haven’t got child labour, slavery, highly exploitive working conditions and sub-minimum wages in

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | INTERVIEW | 45

“ I think the important thing is making sustainable fashion accessible. It’s not just about price. It’s about design, quality, image, desirability and awareness. There’s all these barriers to making it understood and also covetable.”

that supply chain. We can’t do that at this current high speed of fashion production.

We need to change the whole operational model with which fashion companies work in order to be able to do that. Looking at the campaign, which has galvanised consumers and raised awareness, things are moving forward. A lot of the language now in these policy papers is closely echoing what we’ve been talking about for a long time, so it’s a really exciting time. It means that we’re going to see a huge shift.

RJ: You started the label in the 90s, when the fairtrade market was a completely different place. How did you break down barriers?

SM: The sustainable fairtrade offer at that time was very limited and ugly and retailed in not very beautiful places, and that’s why I started the first eco-concept store 20 years ago in Tokyo because I wanted a store that anyone could come to, a one-stop ethical shop where they wouldn’t feel alienated and they would find beautiful, good quality products at affordable prices. I think the important thing is making sustainable fashion accessible. It’s not just about price. It’s about design, quality, image, desirability and awareness.

There’s all these barriers to making it understood and also covetable.

When I was developing the first organic supply chain for fashion we had some disasters.

At that time I didn’t have a lot of technical and design backing that we have now with specialist models. It’s been an evolution and there’s been support with the ethical customers from the early 90s all the way through to help us develop the

product we have today.

Today the market looks completely different; we have lots of other ethical brands out there and we’ve got a debate going on. We’re looking at something which is a different planet from where I started 25 years ago.

RJ: How important is it to get the balance between style and ethical values right?

SM: Since starting People Tree I’ve looked at how fair trade can be covered throughout the design process because you have to start there. For instance, when you’re looking at the drape of a garment you might have to put drip irrigation in organic cotton fields in order to get longer fibres so it will be thinner and will drape properly. So you end up having to think a bit more down the supply chain, which some designers might see as a limitation, but actually a lot of them would find it incredibly empowering to know who made it and that they can use hand craft skills.

There are disadvantages: you can’t respond as quickly because we don’t use synthetic and we’re not happy with sub-contracting, so there are things which slow down the speed to market.

And that’s why I say we have to slow down fashion in order to get transparency.

RJ: What is your take on the current quality and volume of ethical fashion labels on offer?

SM: I think there are lots of new ethical brands at different price points, and that’s good to see. It’s not always been clear for the consumer as to where you can buy what, though now when you type in ‘ethical fashion’ you’ve got a lot of choice.

People mention the cost a lot, but I know lots of people who are detoxing their closets and buying things that last or that are secondhand instead.

RJ: People Tree has done a lot towards the active promotion of fair trade: where do you go from here?

SM: I’m doing more work independently. For example, I’ve got international talks in the Middle East on sustainable fashion and social entrepreneurship, looking at what social business is and how it’s applicable internationally.

The reason I set up People Tree was to change the world. Little by little with the help of our amazing customers and other social entrepreneurs and campaigners we’re beginning to create this paradigm shift and I’d like to continue to be part of that cutting edge of change. I’m also doing some ethical supply chain consultancy to help other companies as well to move and to start looking at their supply chain.

We need big solutions quickly.

RJ: What would you say to a manufacturer, supplier, brand or designer who isn’t convinced about practising fair trade?

SM: Just look at the stats and the data out there.

There’s so much out there now; clothing often looks the same, and the story of what’s behind the brand and how it’s made is your point of difference. From a commercial point of view, the ethical and sustainable tag is a reason to buy and will become more so as people start thinking about the future of our planet. www.peopletree.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PROFILE | 47

DIDSBURY’S MENSWEAR MARVEL Steranko is a menswear independent in South Manchester’s Didsbury that has been supplying kit to its locals since 1991. With its 25th anniversary celebrations imminent, Tom Bottomley talks to owner Peter Parry about how the business has evolved.

—

Steranko’s shop name comes from Jim Steranko, the American comic book writer and artist for Marvel comics and characters such as Nick Fury, Captain America and the X-Men. Not something you’d associate with menswear, but it was shop founder Peter Parry’s brother Andy, who was a massive comic book fan as a kid, who originally suggested the name, and it stuck.

“We have Marvel artwork adorning our walls as a tribute,” says Peter Parry, whose own name actually has a bit of a ring of a comic book character to it. Back in 1991, the shop was located in a much smaller unit about 100 yards up Burton Road, where it still is now. The shop now resides at number 172, a prominent corner unit selling both men’s and womenswear. “In 1991 labels like Boxfresh, Limehaus and Hope & Glory were our first successes,” offers Parry. “That seems like a lifetime ago.”

The aim has always been to provide locals with quality gear which has a nod to contemporary trends. Currently doing well is French workwear brand Vetra, Dickies, which Parry says has recently been adopted by “the skate kids of Manchester,” Portuguese Flannel which he says has been “a bit of sensation” in recent years striking a chord with both young and old, and TSPTR, whose Snoopy and Peanuts prints fit in well with the shop’s aesthetic.

“Without our locals we wouldn’t still be here,” offers Parry. “The area has changed a lot over the years. When I first had the shop the area

was filled with reprobates, students and scallies.

But the last 10 years or so has seen the area change dramatically, to the point where West Didsbury is one of the most affluent and soughtafter areas to live in South Manchester.” Famous shop customers might not be the footballers who are usually found residing in Cheshire, but they do include the likes of musicians Johnny Marr and Paul Heaton, and comedian John Bishop.

In keeping with the local feel, the corner site where the shop is located now was actually an old bakers before Parry moved in. He kept as many of the original features as was possible. He says: “We still get many of the older residents of the area popping in to have a reminisce about how good the bread and cakes were back in the 1950s and 60s.”

These days though, it’s a slice of quality kit that is the order of the day, and Parry says they provide a place where South Manchester locals can be confident in finding the kind of brands you might see in London, Paris or Copenhagen. “I think a lot of our regulars enjoy not having to go into the main town or a shopping centre,” he says.

There’s also a certain camaraderie with other local businesses. “We’re quite supportive of other businesses. If a customer needs something that we don’t stock, we’ll provide them with the details of who does.”

With regard to how the marketplace has changed dramatically since the early 90s, with the online retailing threat now being at the fore,

Parry remains confident they have a strong enough business model. He explains: “When online was starting to really come in to its own about eight years ago, we tried to compete with the big boys. But over the last couple of years we’ve decided to let the big companies fight it out amongst themselves. If it’s a choice between lining Google Ads’ pockets, and spending money developing exciting new brands in the shop, we know where we’d rather spend the money.” For that reason Steranko now just has an online presence that showcases what they do, but Parry says, “that’s enough for us right now.”

The 25th anniversary will be celebrated later this year with what Parry says will be “a big old knees up,” as well as promotions involving current brands in the shop on the anniversary week.

“We’re also in talks with a number of current brands we sell with regards to producing some Steranko exclusive pieces,” offers Parry.

This year will also be one to remember for Parry for another big reason. “I’m going to be a dad for the first time,” he says. “I guess sometimes clothing has to take a bit of a back seat. Not too much though. Even though Steranko has grown up now, it remains at the forefront of my mind.

There’s nothing as sensible as a five-year plan here at Steranko, and we’ll keep pushing forward with new brands, while keeping some of the old favourites that continue to hit a chord with our local customers.” Spoken like a true independent with an undying passion for this business.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PEOPLE | 48

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK TAYLOR STITCH 383 VALENCIA STREET, SAN FRANCISCO

SIMON SAYS It wasn’t so long ago that we were all being urged to ‘Go East’. The New China promised unheard-of dreams, with its billions of affluent middleclass consumers just chomping at the bit to buy Western brands. “Never mind the trade mark piracy and endemic corruption; pick a partner and go for it,” highly paid consultants advised us.

I remained more cautious as peer brands and business plunged in.

“Not in China yet?” I would get at networking events, delivered with a mixture of sympathy and disbelief, as if I’d failed to embrace decimal currency or clung on to a telex machine in the hope of a comeback. I watched as leaders such as Paul Smith set up stores and distribution; and as huge global brands opened in the El Dorados that were the newly built malls.

Well, much has happened since. Paul Smith pulled out for a while, though have gone back in with a local partner, while the super brands have been quietly scaling back their stores, and their ambitions. The days of Li and Fung buying British heritage brands like you or I popping out for a skinny latte came to an abrupt halt. The Chinese government crackdown on ‘gifts’ sent a shudder through the corporate spine of Burberry and others, and the glory days have come to a halt.

Most brand owners I come across are now ambivalent about China.

Some had their fingers burned with trade mark theft; the owner of one venerable Savile Row house told me he spent more on legal fees chasing IP bandits and counterfeits than he ever earned through royalties.

Others have discovered that the definition of ‘middle class’ in China is very different from that here; the newly affluent may be able to afford £40 for a shirt instead of $20.

This week I read that ASOS are pulling out of China and that should tell most of us everything we need to know. Clever, smart and very well resourced, ASOS is one of our great success stories. If they can’t get it to work, then who can.

We dipped our toe into the water in a very small way. We decided to trial working with a Chinese web enabler to translate our website, market to consumers, and service the payments. It didn’t work. It didn’t cost anything, and now we know.

I am certain that one day it will happen. The end game of globalisation means that it will, though not within my career lifetime. So no to China, for now, but India… that’s another story…

Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

Launching in the latter half of 2009, San Francisco store Taylor Stitch was created after the owners recognised a gap in the market for casual custom shirts set at a reasonable price. From there the store expanded its ownbrand collection into a full menswear line. The retailer attracts a fashionconscious crowd, which typically falls into the band of 28-45 year-old working professionals with an interest in the outdoors and adventure. With two stores in San Francisco, the retailer has already established itself as a leading fashion destination within the vibrant city – as seen through its clothing styles, in-store aesthetic and running a range of extra projects.

Customers can access the retailer’s Workshop project online and opt to help launch a new product every week. The system operates on a pre-order crowdfunding basis, whereby orders are collected at a discount and then the chosen products are produced on a supply and demand basis.

—

PLAN B

NIKOLAJ NIELSEN Creative Director, Won Hundred

If I hadn’t gone in to this business I think I would be a chef.

— I truly love what I am doing today as it is my passion, but I also like the processes in the business. I believe how you run a restaurant is in some ways the same as in fashion. It just goes a bit faster. You have the chef (let’s call him the ‘designer’) and the sous-chefs (‘assistant designers’) working on preparing the most delicious and beautiful dishes.

This is possible when the best ingredients are bought (by the production team).

Then you have the waiters (the sales team) serving and pleasing the customers the best way they can. You see, it’s not that far removed.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | PEOPLE | 49

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL TOM CRIDLAND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, TOM CRIDLAND I like dressing flamboyantly and in bold colours that make me happy. I apply a buy less, buy better attitude to fashion and accessories, and I love collecting things and wearing them again and again. The two collections of mine that I am most proud of are of shoes and sunglasses.

— When it comes to shoes, I have many pairs of traditional Northampton-made British leather shoes, driving shoes and even some sequinned black tie slippers. My shoes of choice, however, would have to be my bright pink metallic brogues, handmade by two wonderful young shoemakers, Felix and Alim, at their workshop in Ladbroke Grove, London. I’ve also started collecting trainers and there’s a wonderful sneaker company from Brooklyn called Greats Brand; I’ve barely taken my navy suede ‘Royal’ sneakers off since buying them in March.

— In terms of my sunglasses collection, my most recent purchases came from a vintage fair in Parma and 36 Opticians in Kensington, which is a great and long running optical boutique. The brand that started my love of sunglasses is LA Eyeworks, and my limited edition pair of Silvermans in electric royal blue are one of my most prized possessions.

— I am certainly an advocate of the term ‘wardrobe staple’, and I can think of no other item in my wardrobe that fits this bill better than my navy blue classic Barbour jacket that I’ve had for many years. It’s just so versatile, equally appropriate over a smart blazer and tie as it is over a sweatshirt.

— One of the most frustrating things to shop for is trousers, and that was why I felt inspired to start the Tom Cridland brand a couple of years ago. We have made our classic navy chinos for the likes of Leonardo DiCaprio and Daniel Craig, but I personally prefer the electric blue colour, which I try and wear whenever I’m in a climate where they don’t look completely inappropriate.

TOP TWEETS MeetTheManufacturer @UKmanufacturer Surely we can make zips here in the #UK at a fraction of the cost we have to buy them from abroad #theresachallenge Bryan Adams @bryanadams Brexit: Are you in or out? Does the UK really want to be governed by people that are unelected?

ASOS @ASOS Don’t whip yourself up (sorry) into too much of a frenzy but... BLACK ICE CREAM EXISTS! Psyche @PsycheFashion New Paul Smith AW16 Collection has just landed online!

Junk Shop @junkshopuk Festival outfit idea... Handmade Pure wool cape w/hood and big pockets £40 #glastonbury #purewool #cape Stuarts London @stuarts_london BANK HOL READY. Seven Dials @7DialsLondon Neal’s Yard has had a makeover. First 100 customers will receive a free gift #NYRCoventGarden Damien O’Meara @damien_omeara May 25th, @springsteen plays Santa Claus is Coming to Town in Manchester. If the boss says it’s Christmas then it’s Christmas.

ShortList Magazine @ShortList Who said it: Donald Trump or @RickyGervais’s David Brent?

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p BRAZILIAN FOOTBALLER NEYMAR JR AT THE ICONIC OLD SELFRIDGES HOTEL, LONDON, ATTENDING THE LAUNCH OF THE REPLAY HYPERFREE COLLECTION, THE LATEST IN ITS HYPER-INNOVATIVE JEANS RANGE, THE FLEXIBLES.

p PAULA REED, DIRECTORY OF BRAND STRATEGY AND SARAH MOWER MBE, CO-PRESIDENT OF THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL EDUCATION PILLAR JUDGING THE WINNERS OF THE BRITISH FASHION DESIGN COMPETITION, JIGSAW & PONGEES EVENINGWEAR COMPETITION, TOPSHOP & TOPMAN GRADUATE TALENT COMPETITION AND THE ANNE TYRELL MBE OUTSTANDING PORTFOLIO COMPETITION.

p MENSWEAR STUDENT DESIGNER CHRISTINE XU IS AWARDED THE FASHION DIRECTION ACCOLADE AT THE WINCHESTER SCHOOL OF ART GRADUATE SHOW ON 23 MAY, PICTURED HERE WITH DESIGNER MICHAEL VAN DER HAM, WHO PRESENTED THE AWARD.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | 51

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

BELSTAFF CELEBRATES RACING LEGEND JAMES HUNT The end of May saw the in-store launch of a Belstaff collection honouring the 40th anniversary of when British motor racing champion James Hunt snatched the Formula One Championship in Japan in 1976. When I say snatched, it was literally by one dramatic point from fellow racing hero of the time, Niki Lauda.

The collection has been created in collaboration with Hunt’s sons Tom and Freddie, who have also modelled the gear. The capsule collection comprises six exclusive pieces referencing Belstaff’s historical outerwear pieces and Hunt’s red racing suit with the white horizontal stitching, while also being influenced by the racing colours of his iconic Hesketh car. In hand-waxed leather there are two key styles; a four-pocket belted jacket with quilting details on the shoulder and a second, shorter shape with two chest pockets. A new soya wax cotton has also been introduced on a short café-racer blouson. To accompany the outerwear there’s black straight-leg jeans, a T-shirt in pop colours, and a polo shirt with a racing stripe.

They carry reproductions of Hunt’s signature. A fearless, party loving hell-raiser, Hunt, who tragically died from a heart attack in 1993, probably would have stuck a bottle of champers on there as well, but never mind. For sons Tom and Freddie it’s a decent celebration of their father’s legacy and indomitable spirit.

HE SHOOTS, HE SCORES! The man who gave us the ultimate guide to trainer culture with his book called, you guessed it, Trainers, Neal Heard has now turned his attention to iconic footie shirts with a new book entitled A Lover’s Guide to Football Shirts, published by Carlton Books. For anyone who watches Sky 1’s Soccer AM on a Saturday morning, you won’t have failed to notice the Trainers book on the show’s table – right in front of presenters Helen Chamberlain and John ‘Fenners’ Fendley.

Says Heard: “Fenners is a pal! And I’m supposed to be on the show with the new book come the new season. It’s not about the football kit geek side of things, it’s more about the crossover between fashion, music and politics.

I’ve even included ‘Top Five’ shirts selected by key people from certain fashion labels, but I’m

p NEAL HEARD’S NEW BOOK t TOM AND FREDDIE HUNT MODELLING BELSTAFF

not giving away any more until the book is out.”

Fair play son; looking forward to getting my copy, nudge nudge, wink wink.

‘BLACK FRIDAY’ TO BECOME ‘BLACK FIVE DAY’ Just went you thought online discounting had surely hit a peak, we’re now being informed by specialist global ecommerce consultancy Salmon that the dreaded ‘Black Friday’ is now going to become ‘Black Five Day’ – from Thursday 24 November through to ‘Cyber Monday’ on the 28th. That should make October and most of November interesting trading months for retailers as increasingly savvy shoppers hold out for yet more cut-price kit. Salmon, the digital commerce experts that correctly predicted the first £1bn online shopping day for ‘Black Friday’ in 2015, now predict the extension to the traditional Black Friday rush will see a record breaking £5 bn spent online.

John Beechen, Head of Managed Services at Salmon, said, “Retailers should think about peak trading as a crisis that they know will happen

in advance.” Crisis? Surely not if all that coin is coming in? Beechen continues: “Preparation is vital, and retailers should already be considering their business and operational plans for the period. Retailers must also consider contingency plans to respond to issues during the week.”

Apparently, last year, despite the retail industry anticipating the ‘Black Friday’ rush, digitally-led sales were even higher than predicted. In the US, online sales outnumbered offline sales for the first time ever. In the UK, some retailers reported suffering website ‘outages’ due to the high volumes of traffic, while on some sites customers sat in ‘online waiting rooms’. They’d have been better off going down the shops then, wouldn’t they?

Despite all this talk, last year was a bit of a ‘Damp Squib Friday’ for many, with a lot of menswear indies choosing to stick a load of old stock on a rail in the corner of their shops with minor mark downs, while actually selling more full-price gear once the punters ventured in to the shop, obviously having got tired of waiting in the online waiting rooms. Madness, they call it madness.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | INFORMATION | 52

SUBSCRIPTIONS

To subscribe to MWB simply call +44 (0)1484 846069 or visit mwb-online.co.uk EU £75 (includes p+p) Outside EU £146 (includes p+p)

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | DIRECTORY | 53

CASUALWEAR

CASUALWEAR

GARMENT STANDS

WANTED

SUITS

EPOS

STEAMERS & IRONS To advertise please call Sharon Le Goff on +44 (0)1484 846069 or email sharon@ras-publishing.com

WANTED

STOCK WANTED Menswear, childrenswear, ladieswear Fashion wanted, Any Make Any Style, Cancelled Orders Unwanted Stock, Over Stock Best Prices given, CASH PAID Ring: 07944444508 / 07421594958

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JUNE 2016 | LAST ORDERS | 54

LAST ORDERS WITH...

ROSS BARR-HOYLAND Victoria Jackson speaks to British designer, Ross Barr-Hoyland, founder of the Ross Barr label, about career highlights, The Prince’s Trust and which homegrown brands have caught his attention recently.

— What has the reaction been from the UK menswear industry since launching your label?

The reaction has been utterly and completely brilliant and overwhelming. I currently have five stockists for the a/w 16 collection coming later this year. However, I think within the industry times are tough at the moment. I just wish more indies were open to take a gamble and give someone new a chance.

You received sponsorship from The Princes Trust to establish Ross Barr Clothing. Aside from financially, how has this helped your brand?

The support I have received is immeasurable. The Prince’s Trust have helped me both financially and with mentoring. The Trust showcase all the young people they help through varied events that happen throughout the year, both national and in the local area. I have seen firsthand that all of the people who work both in the Trust, and outside of it, work with such passion – it’s inspiring on every level.

You produce everything here in the UK; do you source your fabrics here as well?

Everything I produce is from right here in the United Kingdom, from the raw materials to the packaging. Hence the slogan: ‘every stitch, every thread: authentically British.’

Obviously you’re a huge supporter of British manufacturing: give us three British labels which have caught your attention recently.

Emma Willis, Gruhme, Bhòid International.

And which other labels would be found hanging in your wardrobe?

It really varies. From Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, Hackett and Crombie for the preppy look, to some things that are more low-key, from a whole host of different designers and brands. I do love discovering new brands and I just tend to buy what I like, which isn’t dependent on specific brand or specific shop.

What would you say your career highlight has been so far?

Between Meeting HM The Queen & HRH The Prince of Wales to seeing David Gandy wearing the Spencer for the first time, I honestly don’t know. Both were out of this world and surreal experiences I shall never forget. But I think a

DOB: 27 May 1989 Place of Birth: Wakefield, West Yorkshire Lives: Wakefield, West Yorkshire Twitter: @RossBarrClothes Website: www.rossbarr.co.uk major highlight was when I sold my first piece before any of the amazing aforementioned events happened. I will remember that guy forever who parted with his cash just based on his love of the branding, the product and what I am aiming to achieve. To me, that was the moment that I think everyone remembers and cherishes.

The first sale.

Do you have a mentor or someone you admire within the industry?

I have a good support network around me that keep me propped up when times are hard and I am under a lot of stress. Within the industry there are so many people I admire, but there are four in particular that stand out because of their display of skill, talent, courage and determination.

Those are; Ralph Lauren, Timothy Everest, Patrick Grant and fellow Yorkshireman, Christopher Bailey.

Where have you drawn your inspiration from for the s/s 17 collection?

My first spring/summer collection is drawn from a

period of time that I think personifies the British summer. It is scary as it will be my first summer collection but I hope to make my mark with the colours and styles.

When you’re not working what would we find you doing? How do you escape?

Good question. I feel like quoting Maggie Smith in Downton Abbey when she asked, “What is a weekend?” as I don’t seem to get weekends off. I have a varied amount of interests, from playing my cello, exploring new places, reading, watching films and generally being outdoors but I spend as much time as I can with friends and family. Even though they rarely see me at the moment, I try and divide my time enough to see them as they are my bedrock. Plus, I have just got a new puppy, so play time is often on the schedule as she is already proving to be quite demanding. But I never know which city I will be in, but I am mostly in London or Leeds. The party boy that was created in my University days still makes a very welcome return every now and again when I need to blow off steam.