MWB MAGAZINE JANUARY ISSUE 227

ISSUE 227 | JANUARY 2016 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

WELL-SEASONED YOUR DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO THE A/W 16 SEASON NEW YEAR, NEW RULES INDEPENDENT RETAILERS ON THEIR RESOLUTIONS FOR 2016 OLD TRADITIONS, NEW INNOVATIONS THE HISTORY AND FUTURE OF KNITWEAR SPECIALIST SLAITH

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | CONTENTS | 07

F E A T U R E S 14

Online Insider Advice, news and issues online

16

Retail Insider The latest in-store news

18

Luck of the Irish Discovering the success of Irish indie Louis Copeland

19

If you don’t know the question, how can you find the answer?

Thierry Bayle of Global Fashion Management considers the issue of problem solving in retail and offers some top tips to improve your cash flow.

27

Product News Rounding up the key stories this month

32

In-season stock Timesavers

34

In-season stock Shirt fire thing

36

A-Z Buyers Guide The product, trends and news for a/w 16

49

Retail Round-up UK indies on business during 2015

52

Jacket Required The newest names to sign to the London showcase

57

New Year’s Resolutions Retailers on what they want to achieve over the next 12 months

60

East meets west Profiling British footwear label ohw?

62

Colour fast Our seasonal young fashion photoshoot

78

25 years in style Nicholas Deakins celebrates its 25th anniversary

80

Sound advice Why music is so crucial in business and how to maximise the effect of sound in-store

R E G U L A R S 9 10 24

Comment News Interview

Ian Bergin

84 87 90

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Mark McCann

Front cover: Soulland (denim jacket) 0045 26150186 Pearly King (shirt and trousers) 01422 371 228

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | COMMENT | 09

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — M A N A G I N G

D I R E C T O R

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2016 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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Cliched it may sound, but there’s no better time than the New Year for fresh starts and making resolutions for the forthcoming 12 months.

I, for one, love nothing better than setting goals come the first of the new month, and although many barely make it past 31 January, it’s the feeling of renewed optimism that keeps me repeating the process year on year.

— In this issue of MWB, our biggest issue of the season, we talk to some of the UK’s leading indies about what they’re hoping to achieve for 2016. One of the key themes running throughout is to get customers back through the doors instead of tempting them with online deals. From the introduction of onsite tailors to offering excellent brand knowledge, indies are taking it back to basics and attracting footfall with good old traditional customer service.

Trading has continued to be tough over the last 12 months, there’s no doubting that, but it has been refreshing to experience so much positivity after speaking to retailers recently. What’s even better to hear is that indies are looking to invest in new labels, after several seasons of cautiously sticking to the same formula. With so much competition coming from the high street and online, those niche labels you spot at shows but decide not to take a risk on might be worth a closer look at this season.

And if unknown, smaller labels with a point of difference are on your hit list this year, contemporary tradeshow Jacket Required is set to present an abundance of both international and home-grown names to whet your buying appetite. Turn to p52 to see our highlight of the brands to catch next month.

However, don’t think those tried and tested labels which keep shoppers returning each season have been forgotten. If you turn to p36, you’ll find our first A-Z of the new season, looking at the trends to emerge, the standout product of a/w 16 and the developments from those brands at the very core of menswear.

With our seasonal young fashion photoshoot, through to profiles on some of the most exciting names in the industry right now, the January edition of MWB is certainly one to keep for the buying season ahead. I hope you enjoy this issue as much as we’ve enjoyed putting it together, and on that note, I wish you all a fantastic 2016. As always, if you have any comments email me or drop the team a tweet at @mwbmagazine.

Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | NEWS | 10

N E W S

FINISTERRE LAUNCHES WHOLESALE OPERATION

CHRISTMAS TRADING FALLS FLAT Trading during the all-important Christmas period was a mixed bag for high street chains and independents alike, with consumers increasingly swapping in-store shopping trips for online purchases, while discount days such as Black Friday, with its huge discounts across high street stores, caused many independents a major headache.

In Doncaster, Russell Jones, co-director of Robinsons of Bawtry, reports strong trading in the run-up to Black Friday, but a noticeable slump in the weeks that followed. “We had a great quarter from September leading up until Black Friday and we were up 12 per cent on last year. But then Black Friday floored us.

We were heavily hit by the internet deals and low prices. It’s not necessarily bigger shops anymore, it’s online we can’t really compete with,” he says.

“Post-Christmas we had a busy period in the time leading up until New Year and now into January it’s really quiet. It’s typical of the time of year – there’s always a lull. It’s just more important now to maximise the pre-Christmas sales to see you through the beginning half of January,” he adds. “I’ve noticed the increasing shift towards online and the tendency to shop online for Christmas and for occasions when there’s a deal on. The customer is more savvy and price aware nowadays.”

Jones says that based on this time’s trading pattern, next Christmas will see an even stronger focus on pricing and a social media sales campaign for Robinsons.

“For next Christmas we will have to price match, though I’m reluctant to discount any further. I will have to do this to match the competition online. I will advertise this in-store and via social media so that customers are really aware and hopefully will encourage more people to come in. But at the end of the day, it doesn’t matter what you do; if people don’t want to put their hands in their pockets – or can’t put their hands in their pockets – there’s nothing more you can do.”

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British cold water surf company Finisterre is launching its first wholesale distribution model with a men’s and women’s capsule collection for a/w 16.

The new wholesale expansion is the next phase in the brand’s long-term targeted retail strategy, following the launch of Finisterre flagship stores in London, St Agnes, Falmouth and Braunton.

“We’ve been fine-tuning the product range for over 12 years,” says founder Tom Kay. “We are incredibly excited to embark on a focused wholesale strategy and get the product we are so proud of in front of the right people.” He adds, “We’ll be working with key accounts that understand the way we do things and represent the brand and product in the best possible way.”

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CEO MENTORING FOR SMES AND START-UPS Fashion business consultancy Global Fashion Management (GFM) has formed a partnership with CEO WORLD to offer funding which will help the CEOs of new and small/medium fashion brands to build successful businesses.

CEO WORLD is an international organisation dedicated to supporting CEOs through peer group partnerships. Thierry Bayle, Founder of Global Fashion Management, says, “GFM has been working with SMEs and young designers for years, helping them to turn their dreams into reality. Our partnership with CEO WORLD will give them access to world class business insight, best practice and the most incredible network of mentors from all over the world.” Successful applicants will be funded by CEO WORLD for up to 50 per cent of mentoring and training costs with GFM. For more information visit www.globalfashionmanagement.com.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | NEWS | 11

NEWS IN BRIEF

STRENGTHENED LINE-UP AT MODA GENT

NEW YEAR’S HONOURS FOR INDUSTRY FIGURES

Moda Gent has bolstered its line-up of menswear labels ahead of its a/w 16 edition, which takes place at Birmingham’s NEC on 21-23 February. The comprehensive portfolio of labels will be showcased within a new format, with unisex areas created along the border of Moda Gent and Moda Woman, including a new area dedicated to the outdoor lifestyle sector. New arrivals to the show include British heritage label Alan Paine, outdoor performance brand Geographical Norway, luxury New Zealand brand Noble Wilde and Guernsey knitwear specialist Channel Jumper.

The line-up has been welcomed by buyers who plan to commit substantial forward-order budget to the show. “Visiting Moda Gent is our equivalent of seeding the ground to result in next year’s harvest,” says Robert Nash, chairman at Geo Heaphy & Sons, Rugby, Warwickshire. “It’s never to be missed.”

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A number of key industry figures have been named in the Queen’s New Year’s Honours list, including Natalie Massenet (pictured), founder of Net-aPorter and chair of the British Fashion Council, who has been made a Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire, or DBE, for services to the fashion and retail industries.

Ann Summers and Knickerbox chief executive Jacqueline Gold was also among the recipients, having been awarded a CBE. Gold received the accolade for services to entrepreneurship, women in business and social enterprise.

British Retail Consortium chief executive Helen Dickinson received an OBE for services to the retail industry.

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UKFT APPOINTS NEW CEO

NEW GLOBAL SALES HEAD FOR TRICKER’S

The UK Fashion & Textile Association (UKFT) has appointed Adam Mansell to the role of Chief Executive Officer, taking over from John Miln who is stepping down this month.

Mansell is currently director of special projects at UKFT, as well as a director of Wulff Consultancy, a bespoke consultancy for the fashion and textile industry and has recently been elected as President of Ginetex, the organisation that owns the trademarked care labelling symbols.

As of January 2016, Mansell will also be a Liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Framework Knitters. With experience representing all aspects of the fashion and textile supply chain, Mansell has links to every part of the industry, from design, fabric and component suppliers to wholesalers, brands, manufacturers and retail.

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Iconic Northampton footwear label Tricker’s has appointed David Jeffery as its head of global sales.

Jeffery’s shoe sector experience includes previous roles at Overland, Paul Smith and Jeffery-West.

“I am delighted that David has agreed to join the Tricker’s team as our new head of global sales,” says Martin Mason, managing director. “He brings with him an invaluable wealth of knowledge in sales, which will no doubt improve our visibility, drive international expansion and bring the Tricker’s brand renewed energy and growth.”

Jeffery adds, “I am thrilled to be joining Tricker’s at such an exciting time; being a local chap, it’s a brand that I have always admired for their skills, craftsmanship and remaining true to their roots. I am looking forward to being part of their continued growth and building upon the proud reputation that the Tricker’s brand enjoys worldwide.”

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K-SWISS CELEBRATES 50 YEARS WITH NEW COLLECTION To mark 50 years of heritage American tennis design, K-Swiss will release new styles for its s/s 16 footwear collection.

Pieces will honour the brand’s past while celebrating the future of footwear design.

The new line draws inspiration from the brand’s modern-day mission to inspire and outfit the next generation of entrepreneurs.

K-Swiss will also introduce the D-R-Cinch Pack; a collection of footwear that features the brand’s signature D-R-Cinch lacing technology born from the Si-18 International shoe in the 1990s.

— BUNKER MOVES PRODUCTION TO EUROPE Footwear brand Bunker has moved its production from Asia to Europe. Established in Spain in 1950 by the Alcocel family, Bunker is returning 90 per cent of production from Asia to Spain and Portugal.

Recognised for urban trainers and boots, Bunker is inspired by workwear, 1970s rock music and rock chic. The decision to move production from Asia back to Europe was made to better control the quality and deliver superior leather uppers.

— SHOPPING CENTRE INVESTMENT FAILS TO MATCH 2014 PEAK Annual investment in shopping centres is predicted to reach £4.3billion, falling short of 2014’s nine-year high, according to research from CBRE. While UK shopping centres enjoyed their traditional Christmas sales pick-up, total investment for 2015 is set to have dropped 23 per cent below 2014’s volume of £5.3bn.

Private equity has dominated the landscape in 2015, accounting for 46 per cent of all acquisitions across 26 transactions. This contrasts with previous years when purchasers have been evenly split across REITs, institutions and private equity.

— BUSINESS RATES PREVENT NEW JOBS AND DEVELOPMENT A new report has revealed that reducing the burden of business rates could unlock almost 4,000 jobs and £1.75bn development over the next five years. The report by the British Property Federation (BPF), British Council of Shopping Centres (BCSC) and British Council for Offices (BCO), written

by Regeneris Consulting, has revealed that over a period of two to three years, approximately three quarters of any increase in business rates is transferred to landlords as occupiers push for lower rents. The report shows that over the past three years, increases in business rates may have led to the economy missing out on as much as £670m of new development, and in addition may have resulted in as many as 6,000 fewer jobs among occupiers of property.

— UK BUSINESS INCOME GROWTH SLOWS IN 2015 UK businesses have seen a 24 per cent rise in annual income growth since 2010, according to the latest Barclays SME Income Index. Analysis of the current account levels of Barclays small and medium sized enterprises (SMEs) in 2015 showed that year-on-year the annual growth rate of business income has slowed, from a high of 8 per cent in 2014, the biggest in 14 years, to 4 per cent. Yet with some annual income growth having occurred in 2015, SMEs are projected to continue to experience growth in 2016.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | NEWS | 12

NEWS IN BRIEF

AQUASCUTUM TO LAUNCH NEW MENSWEAR FLAGSHIP

LONDON RETAIL SPACE SET FOR 8M SQ FT INCREASE

British label Aquascutum is to launch a new extended menswear flagship on Jermyn Street. Agreeing the lease with The Crown Estate for the new store in St James’s, London, this reinforces the area’s position as the home of men’s fashion within the capital. The new store, located at 106 Jermyn Street, will open this summer.

“Jermyn Street’s position as one of the world’s leading menswear destinations, as well as the area’s heritage and reputation for high quality fashion made it the perfect location for our flagship menswear store,” says Mark Taylor, Chief Operating Office at Aquascutum. “Working with The Crown Estate on Jermyn Street has been incredibly valuable experience for us, and reaffirmed our belief that this is the only place in London for brands like us with a premium menswear offer.”

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The amount of retail space under construction in London will increase by almost 8m sq ft, the equivalent of Bond Street, Oxford Street and Regent Street combined, over the next five years according to CBRE, the commercial property and real estate services advisor.

Advance figures from CBRE’s latest IN_retail report reveal planning permission for a total of almost 8m sq ft of new shopping space granted across London in zones 1 and 2. Almost 3m sq ft will be within three retail-only developments at Croydon, Westfield London and Brent Cross. They will account for 1.5m, 698,000 and 592,000 sq ft respectively.

The remaining 5m sq ft has been given permission to be built across 30 sites in zones 1 and 2. Developments range from retail as part of mixed used schemes, through to office-led developments including retail at King’s Cross.

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MARC BOLLAND EXITS M&S

TED BAKER “MOST SOCIALLY ENGAGING” MEN’S BRAND

Marks & Spencer’s chief executive officer, Marc Bolland, has announced his retirement from the high street department store, following disappointing Q3 results.

Bolland indicated his wish to retire from his role after six years at the helm of M&S, and is set to leave in April. He is to be succeeded by Steve Rowe, executive director of general merchandise. “It’s been a huge honour to lead one of Britain’s most iconic companies,” says Bolland. “I am delighted to hand over to Steve Rowe as my successor. I have worked closely with Steve for six years and I am convinced that he will be a great leader for Marks & Spencer. I would like to thank all my colleagues and the Board for being so supportive of the drive to prepare M&S for the future. I am proud to leave such a large group of talent behind in the business.”

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Both Ted Baker and Paul Smith have been named the most socially engaged own-brand menswear retailers, according to retail marketing agency Leapfrogg.

The agency analysed 11 British fashion retailers’ social media activity across Twitter, Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest, as well as the quality of content they post. From those analysed, Ted Baker received the highest score of 14 out of a possible 25.

In order to rank each retailer respectively, engagement levels across social media channels which influenced purchases were scored using analytic tools and qualitative testing.

On all of its social media channels, Ted Baker shared high quality imagery, illustrations and short films showcasing its product in new and exciting ways for its consumers.

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NEW HOME FOR HEART OF ENGLAND AGENTS SHOWROOM Menswear event Heart of England Agents Showroom will move to a brand new venue from January onwards. The a/w 16 edition of the bi-annual one-day show will be held in the Knights Suite at Mallory Court Hotel, Leamington Spa, having previously been held at the Warwick Hilton. Taking place on Monday 25 January and Monday 25 July 2016, the event will include key European brands such as Seidensticker, Olymp, Eterna, CasaModa, Digel and Peter England.

— ORIGINAL PENGUIN LAUNCHES PREMIUM LINE American clothing company Original Penguin has launched a capsule collection, Blue Line, targeting the premium sector, which launched at Pitti Uomo earlier this month.

Consisting of a 24-piece line, the premium line showcases sartorial prints and oriental patterns.

The new collection looks back to the luxuries of past decades, focusing on the 70s in particular. Vintage luxurious details are mixed with sartorial prints and staple menswear items to create a look that combines casual with a dressed up look. Woven shirts use Japanese fabrics, while silk blends portray a high level of craftsmanship. Different colour tones reflect the exclusive nature of the collection, featuring rich warm shades of burnt caramel, plum and navy.

— NEW SEVEN DIALS WEBSITE Seven Dials, a shopping, dining and lifestyle destination located in between Covent Garden and Soho, has launched a new, interactive and fully responsive website. SevenDials.co.uk is the first website to integrate City Mapper, Europe’s leading transport application, and can be translated into 26 languages, including Chinese, Spanish and Russian. It also features news and articles as well as incorporating stockist information from over 150 independent fashion retailers.

— GARDINER BROS’ FAMILY FORTUNES Family footwear firm Gardiner Bros will have divided loyalties at this season’s Footwear Industry Awards as three of its employees – and family members – compete for the same award.

Having all been nominated for the Personality of the Year award, buying director Ben Gardiner, his father Jolyon Gardiner and uncle Peter Gardiner will battle it out on the night for the coveted accolade, which last year was scooped by Gabor sales manager Ross Pickbourne. The trio will also be rooting for their Cotswold label,which has been nominated for the Men’s Brand of the Year category within the awards. The ceremony will take place on Sunday 21 February at Birmingham’s National Conference Centre (formerly the Motorcycle Museum).

“We are delighted that a number of our brands have been shortlisted for this year’s Footwear Industry Awards and we personally are humbled to be nominated for the Personality of the Year award,” says Ben Gardiner. “I am uncertain as to who I will vote for, but my father always taught me to respect my elders…”

WHERE FASH I O N CO M ES TO G ETH ER

2 1 - 2 3 Fe b r u a r y 2 0 1 6 NEC Birmingham To reserve a stand call +44 (0)1484 846069 Find out more and register for your ticket at moda-uk.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | ADVICE | 14

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: CLICK AND COLLECT – BRIDGING THE ONLINE/OFFLINE DIVIDE

IAN TOMLINSON CEO of retail technology provider Cybertill

Click and collect has previously been deemed ‘cannibalising’ for brands due to high demands and minimal margins, with customers expecting cheap collection charges. But brands must recognise the long-term investment that click and collect offers.

Click and collect bridges brick-and-mortar stores with online, helping to create a fully integrated, omnichannel offering to consumers that allows them to engage with a seamless brand experience, no matter what channel they’re using. The rise in m-commerce means customers can now purchase on a device that’s always to hand, at a time that is convenient. For example, during his evening commute a customer may search online for a suit but to ensure it fits and to save money he chooses to collect it in-store.

One negative aspect to m-commerce is that the small screen is likely to drive up return rates as customers aren’t able to view products in detail.

Click and collect enables the customer to physically review the product when collecting in-store, and presents the real-time opportunity for purchases to be exchanged – be it with another size or even another item all together – neutralising a loss for the retailer.

Click and collect is a vital part of the omnichannel purchasing process, which can see customers purchasing online, showrooming in-store during collection, then buying a product online afterwards. So the customer who ordered his suit during his commute may colour match a tie during collection and buy online later to find the best deal. We’re also seeing an increase in ‘webrooming’ – where shoppers research online and then buy in-store. This complements click and collect as shoppers collecting items in-store may already be familiar with other available products which they’d like to see in reality.

Shoppers no longer differentiate between channels, so brands shouldn’t either. To achieve success, brands must use all touch points as part of one omnichannel offering, enhancing customer experience and driving greater levels of conversions.

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WEB WATCH

WWW.ABANDONSHIPAPPAREL.COM Streetwear label Abandon Ship has relaunched its company website and online retail store, with a new domain and rebranded blog. Focusing on behind the scenes elements of the brand, alongside street style inspiration and exclusive lookbooks, the blog will serve as an extension to their ever-growing online community and large social media presence. Launched in 2011, Abandon Ship has grown from selling T-shirts from a bedroom to a label now stocked in the likes of ASOS, Foot Asylum, Ark and Impericon.

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NEWS

CUSTOMERS CONTINUE TO BE DUPED BY COUNTERFEITERS Almost a quarter of consumers have bought fashion, footwear, electronics and digital content online that has turned out to be counterfeit, according to new research commissioned by brand protection firm MarkMonitor.

The research analysed the online shopping habits of 3,450 consumers across nine countries including the UK, France, Denmark, Germany, Italy, The Netherlands, Spain, Sweden and the US, to try and understand shoppers’ opinions on issues such as buying fake goods and online security.

Despite the number of shoppers who admitted to being caught out by online counterfeiters, the research showed that nearly half said they thought buying fake products was morally wrong.

“Along with any increase in online buying behaviour comes a growing threat to consumers – the risk of being exposed to websites selling fake goods and unknowingly buying counterfeit goods in search of a bargain,” says Mark Frost, CEO of MarkMonitor.

Meanwhile, e-commerce site Alibaba is hoping to change its reputation as a fake goods retailer by drawing in more than 10,000 quality manufacturers to set up shops on its online marketplaces. Fashion group Kering recently proceeded with a lawsuit which claimed 37,000 counterfeit Gucci bags were sold on Alibaba’s customerto-customer platform Taobao in one month in 2014.

The company has set an annual sales target of RMB100 bn ($15.6 bn) for highend goods, China Daily reported, and has teamed up with four independent organisations for quality control on products sold directly by manufacturers.

Jin Jianhang, president of Alibaba, said the goal is to match Chinese consumers’ appetite for overseas products with the high-quality local factories, many of which have been manufacturing for international brands.

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A U T U M N W I N T E R 2016 C O L L E C T I O N TO M A K E A N A P P O I N T M E N T AT A S H O W R O O M N E A R YO U P L E A S E C O N TA C T: E : T R A D E @ J O U L E S . C O. U K

T: +44 (0) 1858 435261

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 16

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT JEREMY CLAYTON is the managing director and owner of Javelin, with stores in Bury St Edmunds and Sudbury. Javelin is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

DIESEL UNVEILS NEW CONCEPT STORE Diesel has unveiled its new retail design concept in Manhattan, located on Madison Avenue, ahead of its global store roll out programme starting this year.

Spanning 2,800 sq ft, the store will house menswear, womenswear and childrenswear, and was designed in collaboration with Japanese architect firm Wonderwall.

The store is the cornerstone of Diesel’s new retail strategy deployment which will see several locations around the world open, relocated or refitted with the new design concept over the next three years.

The layout is spilt into a variation of store designs for each line, including a foyer where shoppers can expect to find the Black Gold line, though to a living room set which displays the complete Diesel collection. The three-dimensional patterns of the store’s façade were inspired by the back ‘V’ stitch of the brand’s iconic five-pocket design. “I’m enthusiastic about the future-forward change the brand is spearheading in retail,” said Diesel’s founder Renzo Rosso. “My only advice to the brand’s fans is: go visit the Madison store and live the brand’s new shopping experience.”

— NEWS IN BRIEF POLO RALPH LAUREN PLANS FIRST UK FLAGSHIP Ralph Lauren Corporation has announced plans for its first flagship Polo Ralph Lauren store in Europe, to open this year on Regent Street in London. The store, which will offer both womenswear and menswear and a diverse product portfolio, strengthens the company’s commitment to the region. Opening next summer, the new store will reflect Ralph Lauren’s goal to further build on the Polo brand presence globally. The location in a revered, historical building at the corner of New Burlington Street will highlight the juxtaposition between Polo’s heritage and a contemporary, youthful and cool aesthetic.

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LEVI’S UNVEILS POP-UP CONCEPT To celebrate the launch of its new store-instore at Selfridges, London, Levi’s unveiled its Tailor Shop concept last month. Consumers were able to have their jeans and trucker jackets tailored at the pop-up, with services including rip-and-repair, studding, patches and leg alterations. The store-in-store at Selfridges is a global exclusive – the first time the brand has gathered all of its menswear collections under one roof. The space featured the ubiquitous Red Tab collection, from the original 501s to new tapered fits like the 501CT. For a more contemporary, fashion-forward look, the space also featured the brand’s urbaninspired Line 8 collection.

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Last year was an eventful one for us and we will be taking on 2016 with the benefit of hindsight and the buoyancy of what we achieved. The steep growth in our menswear sales at our Sudbury store merited a new, dedicated premises, which we opened in November. For some time, I had been waiting to find a suitable tenant for the vacant property I owned across the road from the existing store. I had felt that the unit was too large for a solely menswear store, particularly as the space is not uniform. I thought about sharing the space with another retail partner or mixing in more lifestyle accessories as we do in our Bury store. In the end I decided on a concept menswear store with its own in-house Espresso Bar. We’ve maintained the local, independent ethos by partnering with Suffolk based artisan coffee producers Paddy and Scott.

We decided to house the café right at the front of the store, very much contrary to my clothing retail instincts. Subsequent trading has shown that this was the right choice for footfall to both departments. Inside the front windows coffee drinkers sit at high tables, sharing the space with male mannequins.

Fashion retail has evolved to such to an extent that the shopping experience is no longer purely functional; it’s about browsing, trying on, having a coffee and then, hopefully buying.

It’s important to offer novelty and an engaged experience to keep your customer coming back. National discount events such as Black Friday are here to stay and I see little sense in denying that. We planned for the event strategically and offered promotions on stock clearance lines from our warehouse.

We made it work for us without sacrificing our margins. Ultimately, some customers will always be searching for a bargain but that will never foster loyalty. A unique and holistic shopping experience and a cup of freshly ground coffee, on the other hand… www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 17

SHOPPED: HEROES OF RICHMOND How was the Christmas trading period for you this time around?

We found we had quite a good September, October and November, but December really never seemed to take off. We were expecting a bit of a rush, particularly in the last week up to Christmas, but it never really happened. The footfall wasn’t really here in Richmond, and there was no kind of panic buying. It may have been to do with people going online and waiting for Sales to start. We have been consistently up on last year though. It was our third year in business back in September.

What has been performing well for you?

MICHAEL DAVISON We’ve had a good sell through on knitwear, particularly from CO-FOUNDER, HEROES OF an Italian brand called VNECK, and certain shirts in heavier RICHMOND, SURREY fabrics that were a bit more interesting from the likes of Xacus, also from Italy, have worked. Red Wing has performed consistently on footwear, and we’ve done very well on hats in all styles – everything from the big brim stuff to the baker boy and flat caps – from the likes of Christys’, Goorin Bros. and Bailey. We’ve actually sold something like 200 hats this season.

Do you have any new brand additions being introduced for the season approaching?

We’ve got Private White V.C. coming in for this spring which we’re excited about. We think it sits well with what else we do. They do a heritage range, which is not quite as expensive and probably more suited to us at the moment. We’re always optimistic and it’s always worth trying new things, so you never know: when we go buying for a/w 16 we may take a gamble on some of the more expensive pieces.

—

IN FOCUS: HANON SHOP 51 THE GREEN, CITY CENTRE, ABERDEEN, AB11 6NY

ESTABLISHED: 1990 — BRANDS: NIKE, ADIDAS, NEW BALANCE, ASICS, WOOD WOOD, NEIGHBOURHOOD, STÜSSY, ACRONYM, DIADORA, CLARKS, HEADPORTER, LEVI’S VINTAGE, REEBOK, UNDEFEATED, VANS, LE COQ SPORTIF.

NIXON OPENS SECOND LONDON STORE Nixon, the Californian watch and accessory label, is set to open a new store on Neal Street, Covent Garden, following the launch of their Carnaby Street store which opened in late 2014.

Located at 35 Neal Street, the store will feature the brand’s infamous customisation bar, allowing shoppers to create their own one-ofa-kind watch. Set across two floors, the store will give Nixon the opportunity to showcase its limited edition offers, including its new, premium Swiss-made Automatic RSVP collection. “We’re excited to have the opportunity to raise Nixon’s profile in London and the UK,” says Philippe Gouzes, VP of sales. “We have found that these stores are a great way to introduce people to Nixon and showcase the brand and they really accelerate the business of our retail partners,” he adds.

— NEWS IN BRIEF

Hanon was founded on a love for streetwear and skateboarding by brothers Brian and Edward Toft, and opened under the name of ‘Streethreds’ in 1990 in Elgin, a small city in the north east of Scotland. Relocating south to Aberdeen in 1993, and with a brand new name, they celebrated their 25th anniversary in business in 2015. Hanon is an established destination for limited edition sneakers, as well as an excellent mix of world-renowned streetwear brands. If you want something ‘street’ for your feet, then Hanon is a haven, and a lot of people’s first stop for the latest sneaker releases. Hanon was one of the first independent retailers to fully engage with selling online and their well established website means they have a wide-ranging customer base. But it’s in the shop itself that you really get a feel for what they’re all about. In the streetwear game it’s all about respect, and Hanon has that from its customers and the brands it stocks in spades. The recent Asics Gel-Lyte III collaboration they did saw people actually camping outside the shop from the Wednesday prior to the in-store release on the Saturday. Now that is retailing.

—

M&S TOP CUSTOMER LOYALTY INDEX British retailer Marks and Spencer has topped a new Customer Loyalty Index, which surveyed 2,000 UK adults to find out which three clothing brand or retailers they would consider themselves most loyal to. Conducted by polling specialist Redshift Research for apparel fit preference specialist Fits.me, the survey found that British consumers were most loyal to Marks and Spencer with 12 per cent of the vote, followed by clothing retailer Next with 9.6 per cent, while value retailer Primark took third spot with 5.9 per cent. Other brands listed in the Customer Loyalty Index top 10 included Debenhams, New Look, H&M, George at Asda, F&F at Tesco, Matalan and Asos.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | REPORT | 18

LUCK OF THE IRISH On a recent study trip to Dublin with the British Independent Retailers Association (BIRA), Melissa Wheeler visited iconic Irish store Louis Copeland, meeting a third-generation Copeland to talk margins, made-to-measure and maintaining a point of difference.

— Melissa Wheeler: As Louis Copeland III, can you tell me a little about the family business’s timeline?

Louis Copeland: My great grandfather was a tailor from Lithuania who settled in Ireland. His son, my granddad, started Louis Copeland as a made-to-measure business in 1933. My father, who is now 65 and works mostly in the flagship Capel Street store, became involved in the business when he was about 15 and so has been working for the family business for an impressive 50 years. As for myself, I have worked full time with the family business for about 15 years, but I remember bringing the alterations from the Capel Street factory to the shopfloor as a kid.

MW: Capel Street remains the flagship store, but how many stores does Louis Copeland now have?

LC: We have six stores in total. We’ve always been based in the north of Dublin city on Capel Street, although we now occupy a different building than we did originally in 1933. We have stores on Wicklow street, Pembroke Street and we launched the Dundrum Shopping Centre store three years ago, which we refitted from a Boss franchise which we used to run. We also run a Gant franchise here at Dundrum.

MW: Many retailers will be in awe of you successfully expanding during such tough economic times. How tough was it?

LC: Yes, it has been tough. Our Gant store opened in 2008 – in the eye of the storm – but we feel that it was worth persevering. The last six to 10 months have seen improvements and we feel that, in view of the next 20 years, opening the Louis Copeland store at Dundrum was the right thing to do to capture a younger demographic.

MW: How has Louis Copeland & Sons balanced changes with heritage?

LC: We still make a small amount of stock in the factory at the shop on Capel Street, but we have evolved and adapted considerably since 1933. It was my grandfather who introduced the retail dimension to the business and my father later brought readymade suits into the offering in the 1970s, to sit alongside the made to measure suits.

In the last 20 years we have brought in a lot more casual wear from different brands, although made to measure still plays its part.

MW: How much of the existing business remains own-brand Louis Copeland?

LC: Our bestselling product remains our own label, although the store’s product mix has developed a great deal in the past few years. I would say that about 35–40 per cent of our

business is own-brand, which consists of suits, blazers, shirts and ties; a mixture of smart and smart/casual. We don’t do knitwear and so we leave that to the other brands such as Gant, Paul & Shark and Boss who we stock alongside our own label. Overall, I would say that 75 per cent of our business is formal and 25 per cent is casual.

MW: Independent retailing is especially tough these days. What are the main challenges that the business faces?

LC: Competition from brands and other retailers on the internet is challenging. When it comes to big brands, customers shop across the board on price, so when you stock well-known brands such as Gant and Tommy Hilfiger you are competing in a far larger marketplace.

MW: How do you compete against these forces as an independent retailer?

LC: Our own brand is central to our strategy.

When it comes to our own label, we are not beholden to a supplier’s minimums or margins. Of course, having your own brand is also a great protection strategy against the flash sales of larger department stores and online retailers who sell the same brands. On a marketing level, we also publish and print 30,000 copies of our own in-house brochure, 11,000 copies of which we distribute with the Irish Times. We feel it’s important to maintain high standards throughout our business and our suppliers are very keen to advertise in this too, so it helps all parties.

MW: Besides margins, how important is the Louis Copeland brand to your identity and the product mix?

LC: Our customers buy from the other brands in the store, but they are generally secondary purchases. They will come in for Louis Copeland

suits and tailoring and may leave with some knitwear and casual trousers too. Besides the likes of Gant, Paul & Shark, Hugo Boss and Ted Baker, the offering has broadened during the past couple of years to include other brands such as Brax, MMX and Eton shirts. MMX is probably our bestselling casual wear trouser and the fact that it’s not a well-known brand is an asset. The guys on the floor really believe in it because of the quality, fit and the fabrics used. They would rather sell that than more well-known brands where the quality might not be so good.

MW: Where do you travel to source your fabrics for the Louis Copeland brand?

LC: We mostly travel to Europe for the suits. Most of our fabrics are from Italy, Portugal or Poland.

We use Thomas Mason for 99 per cent of our shirt fabrics and Barbarus for 80–90 per cent of our suit fabrics. We have dealt with most of our suppliers for a long time, so we will usually go to them directly and look through a range of fabrics before selecting from their range.

MW: Do you have any further plans for Louis Copeland & Sons in the near future, such as entering the UK market or even wholesale?

LC: While trade has improved during the past six to 10 months, we still plan to keep things as tight as possible and focus on our brand, identity and core values. As far as further expansion is concerned, we may look to expand outside of Dublin in the next couple of years. Wholesaling would be a massive leap and is not for now. But who knows, maybe down the road?

MELISSA WHEELER is a freelance fashion writer and the retail columnist for the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | REPORT | 19

IF YOU DON’T KNOW THE QUESTION, HOW CAN YOU FIND THE ANSWER? Thierry Bayle of Global Fashion Management considers the issue of problem solving in retail and offers some top tips to improve your cash flow.

—

THIERRY BAYLE

In case you didn’t know, I’m French (the clue is in the name) and I’ve had a love affair with the English language since my father’s job took the whole family to San Francisco for a few years when I was six years old. The thing I like most about English is the fact that with just one little letter, you can unlock a world of secrets: Who? What? Where? When? Why? and How? See what I mean? When you have a problem in your fashion retail business, very often it is almost impossible to fix it unless you know which key questions to ask yourself. For me, it all comes down to the Ws. Ask yourself all of these and then you’ll have a better chance of understanding

where you need to look more closely and working out how to fix it. Believe me, it works.

I’ve been working with the fashion school MOD’SPE Paris recently, helping students to understand and use the concept of project management. Even in a cosy, academic, nonstressful setting, they find it hard to set priorities and focus on the best way of achieving their goals. By getting them to focus on the magic Ws, they realised that by understanding who, what, where, when, why and how, it’s possible to come up with a clear plan and a strategy. This might all sound terribly esoteric, but try this approach to problem solving in your thoroughly stressful,

life-on-the-line business and you will find that it helps you to screen out some of the peripheral issues and cut to the chase.

I work with fashion retailers and brands every day on one key issue: how to make more money in your business. There is an answer, which I’ll tell you, but you need to understand that the process of arriving at that answer is just as important as the answer itself, because without it, there is no answer! Confused? Stay with me, I’ll explain.

Like you, I’ll be off to the trade shows later this month in Paris and then here in the UK in February. I am one of the retail experts at the uuu

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | REPORT | 20

Thierry Bayle Founder Global Fashion Management Tel: 0208 576 6233 Email: retail@globalfashionmanagement.com Website: www.globalfashionmanagement.com Twitter: @retailfashion What is Global Fashion Management?

GFM specialises in helping retailers and fashion brands to build a successful retail business.

We are operations improvement specialists and work on a project or retainer basis.

GFM will help you get more from your key retail assets: your stock and your people. We deliver a monthly Open to Buy plan to ensure we can forecast sales at over 90 per cent accuracy. We have over 30 training modules to promote best practice and help you increase sales, profits, staff motivation and customer traffic.

Who’s Next Retail Expert Club in Paris. Retailers contact us before the show to book a free appointment to discuss particular issues in their business. I’ve found that the best way to help them get the most out of our sessions is to get them to fill in a fairly comprehensive questionnaire beforehand, in order to understand what is going on in their boutique.

As you’ve probably guessed, my questionnaire is full of magic Ws. The thing is, it helps me to maximise both time and results: it enables me to identify their pain so that I can help them to turn their business around. Obviously, people expect miracles, but while I can’t always come up with an instant solution, the fact that I’ve got them to focus on the key questions helps me to help them work out the best way forward. If this sounds like a total cop-out, it’s not: I’ve had plenty of phone calls and emails from people with whom I’ve sat down and brain-stormed their issues and dilemmas, telling me that by working like this they had finally managed to see through the trees to the wood.

So that’s the process I strongly recommend to help you focus on your problems.

NOW TO THE BIG QUESTION: HOW CAN YOU EARN MORE MONEY? Everyone in the industry will tell you that the key to lucrative fashion retail is a healthy cocktail of marketing, people, property, taste, product knowledge and pizazz. In other words, you need to focus on social media; make sure you have a great website; advertise locally if you have a brick and mortar store; recruit great staff; train your staff to the nth degree; ensure that your store is

well located and impeccably styled; have great taste and buying flair and hold more events than your competitors. All this is totally true and I agree with it wholeheartedly.

However, there’s something missing here.

What about the way you manage your stock?

As an independent, you’re dedicating 40-50 per cent of your net sales to the cost of the goods sold and yet three-quarters of you probably don’t track your sales and stock in a way that helps you to improve cash flow and profitability. It’s all about classification: you need to go through your stock and allocate each type of goods (coats, jackets, suits, jeans, long-sleeved shirts, shortsleeved shirts, T-shirts etc) to a class.

Make sure that you are tracking by class first of all, and afterwards by brand. Why? Because product types tend to be more constant than brands: customers will be loyal to a brand, but they buy predominantly by product rather than by brand. Obviously, tracking brand performance is important, but it is essential that you can track performance by class over an extended period of time. The reason for this is that the brands you stock are likely to change over time. By doing this, you will be able to identify trends, challenges and opportunities.

If you have an EPOS system, this will obviously make things easier; however, it can still be done using a spreadsheet. If you haven’t been tracking your sales like this until now, make it your new year’s resolution to start now and collect data so that you can analyse it month by month.

As your months of tracking data start to stack up, you will be able to see which classes perform best and which classes are not so strong. The point of

this data collection is to show you where you should be spending your money in terms of product class. Analysed by a sales forecast on a monthly basis, it will show in which classes more short order goods can be bought in order to top up stock and boost your sales figures and cash flow. This is known as an Open to Buy plan and will show you what to buy (by class) and when to bring it into the store.

It always amazes me that so many retailers (including brands with retail) have no system in place which enables them to follow their sales progress on a monthly basis. In addition, I’ve noticed that most European and UK retail debate forums and panels do not discuss buying or merchandising tools which can help you better turn your goods into cash, whereas in the US they are widely discussed and used. Why is this?

Perhaps they are seen as the black arts here. I was at the World Retail Congress this September in Rome and there was no time specifically dedicated to buying and merchandising. Indeed, discounting was only addressed under the angle of getting more traffic (yet it can be the result of overbuying). This issue really should be higher up the European agenda. It’s incredibly important for retailers as it’s your money being invested in the goods. I can feel a crusade coming on!

It’s a new year and an Olympic one at that, so before you get completely swept away with your buying, go for gold: don’t forget to apply the rules of the six Ws and above all, don’t forget to focus on your stock. Once you understand how to have the right product at the right time in the right quantity, you will make more money.

Happy new year and happy retailing.

MODA-UK.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | PROMOTION | 22

THINK YOU KNOW MODA? NEC, Birmingham, 21-23 February

With a new format, a new location and a whole range of new features, next month’s edition of Moda Gent marks the start of a new era for the industry’s national show. Start planning your visit now.

DIDRIKSONS

CHANNEL JUMPER

Having undergone a reorganisation for a/w 16, Moda Gent is better placed than ever to showcase the industry’s leading lineup of brands. Now in a new location within the NEC, Moda Gent maintains its convenient adjacencies with Moda Footwear and Moda Woman, while evolving its own distinct identity as a standalone show.

“As well as benefiting from being part of a larger event each of the Moda shows also has its own individual requirements, something which as organisers we review every season,” says Nick Cook, portfolio director of show organiser ITE Moda.

“The changes we’re making for next year allow us to take full account of the requirements of each of the industries we represent, and introduce new features which exhibitors and buyers have been asking us for.”

Moda sees the introduction of a brand new unisex area on the new border between the menswear and womenswear shows, where buyers will find a keen focus on contemporary lifestyle brands. New names heading to the NEC to debut in the area include Regatta and Didricksons, showing contemporary outerwear alongside other leading names in casual and lifestyle fashion.

Moda will also play host to its first-ever Outdoor Lifestyle area this season, bringing together functional fashion labels for life on the moors and shores. Menswear labels Gurteen, Lyn

MODA-UK.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | PROMOTION | 23

EXHIBITOR LIST NOW LIVE ON NEW LOOK MODA WEBSITE DON’T MISS A THING THIS SEASON. REGISTER FOR YOUR FREE TICKET NOW AT MODA-UK.CO.UK

Oakes, Peter Scott, Brook Taverner, Schneiders, Jupiter, Redpoint and S4 are just some of the brands confirmed to show within the new area, which is underpinned by a strong unisex offer of brands including Alan Paine, Falke, Burlington, Dents and Cap Frehel.

Within the main Moda Gent area meanwhile, the focus is on bringing the best in global inspiration to the trade’s most accessible event. The show maintains its position as the essential destination for established brands such as Skopes Menswear, Meyer, Olymp and Eterna, while bringing on board a host of new arrivals from all over the world.

Geographical Norway makes its debut at the show, bringing with it all the pared-back style of Norway with the performance properties associated with Scandinavian climates.

Already established as a key player in the outdoor clothing sector, Geographical Norway will broaden its appeal through its Moda Gent debut as it evolves its identity as a lifestyle performance brand.

For buyers all over the UK, the enhanced line-up and changes being introduced this February will make for a national event that is more relevant than ever.

“It’s good to see Moda Gent evolving each season,” says Mark Esslemont, partner at Esslemonts, Aberdeen. “I attend the show to check out the latest trends, and to network with

fellow retailers and suppliers, as well as doing a good proportion of my buying. I can do the majority of my seasonal buy under one roof, and the location is accessible wherever you are in the country.”

Fellow independent retailer Robert Nash agrees that Moda Gent is an essential date on the calendar, and more relevant than ever when it comes that all-important first look at the season to come.

“Visiting Moda Gent is our equivalent of seeding the ground to result in next year’s harvest,” says the chairman at Geo Heaphy & Sons in Rugby, Warwickshire. “It’s never to be missed.”

OLYMP

EXHIBITORS INCLUDE: Alan Paine • All Size Company • Ashwood Leather • Ashwood Luggage • Atelier Torino • Baileys • Ben Green Shirts • Benetti Clothing • Benvenuto • Bladen • Brook Taverner • Burlington • Cabano • Calvin Klein Socks • Camel Active • Cap Frehel • Carabou • Carl Gross • Casamoda • Cavani • Channel Jumper • Charles Smith • Chrysalis Clothes • Claudio Lugli • Club of Comfort • Corpus Line • D555 • Daniel Grahame • Dario Beltran • Dasmarca Hat • Denton Hats • Digel • Dissident • Douglas • Drifter • Duke London • Esquire • Eterna • Falke • Farah Classic • Fenland Leather • Florida Royal Polo Team • Fonz Leather Styles • Future Cut Cloths • Fynch-Hatton • Gabicci • Gabicci Vintage • Geographical Norway • Gibson • Gio Gino • Giordano • Guarles Norton • Gurteen • Hardy & Parsons • Hattric • Hawkins & Shepherd • HJ Hall • Hortons • Hucklecote • Hunt & Holditch • Ibex of England • Jacaru • JLY • Jockey • Jupiter • Kam Jeanswear • Kensington • Knightsbridge • Landi • Laser Jeans • Leyva • Lizard King • Lyn Oakes • Mac Mode • Maddox Street London • Mag Mouch Sophos • Magee • Meyer • MMX Germany • Monti • Noble Wilde • Oakman • Olymp • Orbitkey • Pantherella • Peter Gribby • Peter Scott • Piece of Blue • Raphael Valencino • Redpoint • Regatta Great Outdoors • Richard James Savile Row • River Creek Outerwear • Rockford • Rossane Business Shirts • S4 • Schneiders • Scott by The Label • Scott-Nichol • Secrid • Seidensticker • Skopes Menswear • Smarty of Switzerland • Sorrento • Sovereign • Split Star • Springvale Leathers • Stetson • The British Bag Company • Thomson & Richards • Tilley • Tokyo Laundry • Tom Hagan • Twisted Faith • Tziacco • Venti • Voeut • Wellington • Wilvorst • View the full list online at moda-uk.co.uk GEOGRAPHICAL NORWAY

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 |�INTERVIEW�| 24

INTERVIEW

IAN BERGIN Ian Bergin was originally brought in to develop a full Barbour menswear offer for the global marketplace.

Five years down the line, it’s clear he’s done a pretty fine job. Tom Bottomley discovers how he set about the task, and what to expect from the brand in the future.

— Tom Bottomley: What changes have you made since joining Barbour five years ago?

Ian Bergin: One of the key reasons why I was originally brought in was to build a brand from the outerwear. The clothing that was being produced at the time wasn’t really at the standard that it needed to be. Then it was about properly segmenting the line in terms of who we were actually selling to. We wanted to broaden the appeal of the brand, so we could sell all year around and around the world, and more than just outerwear for men and women. But if you have to explain something too much to a customer, you’ve lost them straight away. If you try to give them too many messages they will just turn off. So the message has to be consistent, and dividing the offer up as we have has made things a lot clearer.

— TB: How did you go about making those changes?

IB: Although the range has got bigger, what I’ve tried to do is simplify things a bit. It was about looking at what Barbour stands for, because it has a certain DNA. Waxing, quilting, corduroy, tartan, an angled pocket on the International jacket, hand-warmer pockets on the country jackets – all key components of what the brand is about. So it was about building the range out from that and making sure everything we do looks and feels like it’s Barbour. It needs to fit with the brand, even in other product categories. Without going down a cul-de-sac of trying to make everything look like the jackets in some way, it just needs to be a good fit with those jackets. We’re quite a commercial

DIRECTOR OF MENSWEAR BARBOUR

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 |�INTERVIEW�| 25

company too, because we’ve always been about providing value for people. It’s not exclusive; it’s inclusive as a business. There needs to be enough of a range with the right quality, but it also needs to be so people can buy into it at the right price levels. We know our place in the market, but with three Royal warrants on the label we have to have a certain standard. We’re careful how we make stuff and where we make it.

— TB: Is knitwear now another key area?

IB: Yes, that would be our biggest area outside of the outerwear. We’re now doing weatherproof knitwear too, which is Teflon coated with C6 technology so it’s a bit more environmentally friendly. As a brand, that kind of weatherproof element is our point of difference. We can build a whole portfolio of products, but a lot of them dovetail into that kind of rugged weatherproof side. That’s important for us. There’s a certain design simplicity about Barbour. Every time I go and look at Belstaff, it just looks a bit too polished to me, a bit too Italian. Barbour has that quite nice ruggedness about it. It comes from our industrial past, really: mining, shipbuilding, fishing, coastal work and so on.

— TB: Have you given the brand more of a fashion appeal as well?

IB: Well, it’s funny in that the highest ‘fashion’ accounts we have, such as a lot of the stores in Japan like Beams, SHIPS and United Arrows, and the higher grade stores in the UK, they all quite like the classic Barbour look but they want it to fit well. So we developed a number of fits, such as our SL fit which is slimline. That was originally developed for the Japanese market. You can put any of the classic styles in that fit and it looks appropriate for a modern consumer. Then we have our tailored fit, where the garments are articulated and shaped. It makes it very flattering when you put it on. It fits in all the right places.

The classic offer is a bit more roomy, so you can get garments underneath.

— TB: Are accessories another growth area for the brand?

IB: Accessories now represent about 10 per cent

of our sales, and that is certainly an area we are seeing strong growth in. Most of the accessories sales are unisex, like the bags and scarves.

— TB: How would you define the different Barbour offers?

IB: We’ve got Barbour International and we’ve got Barbour. One’s about motorcycling, and one’s about country and coastal wear really. Within Barbour, it’s like a triangle, and right at the top of that you’ve got Beacon Heritage, which is our experimental area where we do collaborations with designers, such as what we’ve done in the past with Tokihito Yoshida and Norton & Sons, and more recently with White Mountaineering.

It’s about bringing in a fresh pair of eyes and doing things that we wouldn’t have thought of ourselves – throwing a different angle at what we do. Then in the other two corners you have the ‘heritage’ line, which was originally brought in to attract younger consumers to the brand, and then the ‘lifestyle’ collection, which is for a slightly older customer. Then, sitting just under that, is the classic and countrywear. Barbour has always been a brand for everybody.

— TB: Are you still continuing with the Steve McQueen line within the Barbour International motorcycle-inspired offer?

IB: Yes, we are carrying on with that. It’s something we thought we’d originally give two to four seasons, as special editions, but it’s just proved lastingly popular in all markets. We do that through an agency called Green Light that’s run

by Chad McQueen, his son. He generally does sign off all the designs. Initially I thought it would appeal to a slightly older customer who would know about Steve McQueen, and who would aspire to that kind of understated coolness that he had. But it seems to appeal to a whole range of people really. We subtly brand it with his name and do some replica pieces, as well as T-shirts which offer an easy way to buy in to it.

We also do a capsule collaboration collection with Triumph now, so we’ve got an

image of Steve McQueen wearing a Barbour jacket sitting on a Triumph bike. These are all images we had, so it seemed pretty common sense to put all that together.

— TB: How has presenting for London Collections: Men been received?

IB: The first time we did it was with our collaboration collection with White Mountaineering last season, as well as with our ‘heritage’ line, and it was really well received. It surprised us to see the amount of international press coverage we got. We’ve just done our second time, an informal presentation at the Swiss church on Endell Street in Covent Garden, and it’s becoming very important as a global showcase, and a good way of giving a snapshot of what we’re doing for certain more relevant collections within our offer. It shows we’re still relevant to that kind of consumer.

— TB: Was there anything particularly new you unveiled this time?

IB: Brand new is our new Night Watch concept line, which sits together with Beacon Heritage.

It’s all based on lighthouse men. Every garment is named after the eight bells of the night watch. It’s a very simple collection and it’s all black, using Blackwatch tartan in the linings. It’s all based around some great images from our archive.

— TB: Are there any plans to introduce some more technical pieces in to the Barbour offer?

IB: That’s something that is quite close to our hearts in the design team. We have had a reasonable amount of success with doing some seam-sealed and very simple, almost skeletal versions of our jackets in waterproof fabrics. In terms of ‘waterproof breathables’ in general, we see that as a real opportunity for Barbour. It’s a good fit for us, and we’re really looking in to developing that concept and how we can gain traction in that area of the market for s/s 17, and then more forcefully for a/w 17.

It will have a real category focus going forward.

“Barbour has that quite nice ruggedness about it.

It comes from our industrial past, really: mining, shipbuilding, fishing and coastal work.”

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P R O D U C T

NEW TERRITORY The Camel Active a/w 16 collection Crossing Borders embodies the theme of changing perceptions.

Presenting contrasting looks throughout the line, different material combinations including cotton, fresh mixes of wool and coated nylon are used; meanwhile opposing silhouettes from boxy to long emphasise the disparate nature of the range. Dark, earthy shades dominate, with blue and grey hues featuring in different tones, while indigo, red and green shades highlight garment features. Typical brand characteristics can also be found in the form of waterproof and breathable fabrics, ergonomics, elasticity and practical details such as multi-pockets, reflectors and hidden closures. —

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RADAR Spotlighting style

THE RIGHT WAY The K-Way brand was created in 1965 by Leon-Claude Duhamel in Paris, who originally manufactured trousers. Realising nobody in Paris had anything decent to keep them dry when the heavens opened, he set about creating decent waterproof windbreakers with a timeless design and some very natty bold colour taping detailing on the zippers.

These days the brand is owned by BasicNet, an Italian group who know a good thing when they see it. Key items for a/w 16 come from the Le Vrai 3.0 collection in three shapes, a jacket, a smock and parka – called Leon, Claude and Eiffel respectively – to keep the mais oui in Paris.

There’s colour panelling and original designs from the archive, featuring ripstop fabrics and water repellent and breathable heat-taped seams, as well as ergonomic hoods.

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LAST OF ENGLAND ESTABLISHED: 2013 HISTORY: Founder Tom Heber-Percy was inspired to launch the brand after discovering an eye-catching cashmere knitwear garment in his father’s wardrobe. Believing the garment to be new, judging by the high quality feel and appearance, Heber-Percy was surprised to learn it was 30 years old.

SIGNATURE STYLE: High quality yarns and timeless design fuse together to create oneoff pieces under a brand philosophy: ‘make it last’.

Last of England typically draws its inspiration from classic British style, and its latest collection for a/w 16 echoes this sentiment. Designs are kept simple, with garments drawing upon a timeless colour palette of red, navy, green and mustard. The ethos behind the brand is enforced in the use of high quality cashmere yarn sourced from inner Mongolia.

The cashmere undergoes a meticulous selection process to achieve the level of quality required, with the hair of three goats used for each knitwear piece.

Starting with the raw cashmere fibre, the brand follows the process until the end product is created. Fibres are knitted at high tension to remain strong yet soften naturally with age. Factories are positioned next to a supply of soft water, benefiting the fabric at the crucial washing stage. Production takes place in Scotland, in an area with a long-established knitting industry and a history of employing local craftspeople. With such high attention paid to the manufacture of each garment, a definitive style is created which channels classic looks from the likes of artist Lucian Freud to poet Dylan Thomas.

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PRODUCT NEWS IT’S A KNOCKOUT UK Olympic boxer Luke Campbell models Merc’s new collection, which takes its influence from the Mod scenes of the 60s and 70s.

For a/w 16 slim silhouettes feature across the line, with smart jackets and trousers mixing with geometric print shirts and chevron and jacquard knits. Highlights include a heavy Melton wool doublebreasted pea coat. In addition, Merc’s established Harrington jacket returns for the new season, featuring a new vertical stripe design.

Other key pieces include a micro-dogtooth wool blazer, paisley print shirts and tailored Prince of Wales check trousers. A conventional colour palette of charcoal, navy and vintage creams maintains the classic retro look for this line.

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KING OF THE ROAD Streetwear brand King Apparel joins forces with 16-year-old racing driver Damani Marcano for 2016. As the youngest racing driver in the 2015 Milltek Sport Volkswagen Racing Cup, Marcano has teamed up with the label and will act as brand ambassador.

The partnership sees Marcano follow in the footsteps of film and music celebrities who have worked with the label, including film star and musician Plan B and grime scene rapper Wretch 32. Marcano will actively promote the brand, beginning with its a/w 15 collection, while also working with King Apparel to create unique branded pieces for 2016, starting with his own snap-back baseball cap.

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STYLE HIGHLIGHT

ETERNAL STYLE Eterna’s a/w 16 range strengthens its already established masculine brand aesthetic. The range is separated into three categories: Do the Right Thing, Love Me Tender and Hazel Meets Classic.

Dark colours dominate across the line, though weaves and melange yarns create a flexible fabric that’s versatile to the touch.

Beige and brown hues mix with grey for a classic winter look. Overall, autumnal colours cover the collection, with occasional tones of blue acting as a focal point.

Featured prints imitate the appearance of knitwear, with herringbone and pepita maintaining a hold over the collection.

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AARON HALES Founded in 2014, eponymous label Aaron Hales offers a collection of premium silk scarves and pocket squares. Made entirely in the UK, a highlight of this capsule range is the Paradise pocket square. According to Hales, the intricate print of the Paradise style features “a celestial sphere of Persian blue and old gold”, which is “highlighted by porcelain white, representing purity and new beginning.” www.aaronhales.com

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RADAR Spotlighting style

QUALITY CRAFTSMANSHIP

PYRENEX ESTABLISHED: 1968

As the premium sister label to trouser specialist Meyer Hosen, MMX focuses on high quality, luxe fabrics and a keen attention to detail. Designed for the younger, more style-conscious customer, the range is created within Europe, with the use of cashmere, kapok and silk. Ethics remain key, with the use of Fairtrade certified cotton.

Details include colour co-ordinated inner linings, hand-stitched MMX logos and the placement of a genuine Swarovski crystal on the fly of the trousers. Key styles for the a/w 16 season include the stretch cashmere-cotton Lynx, the super-stretch woollen look two-tone Taurus (pictured) and the stretch Pima cotton ice-finish Lupus design.

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HISTORY: In 1940, the Crabos family started designing and making its first down jackets for a humanitarian purpose. The first vests were shipped to Germany, through the Red Cross, to protect prisoners against cold. The brand was to be officially launched later.

SIGNATURE STYLE: Established at the foothills of the Pyrenees, Pyrenex bases its image and garments around the outdoor lifestyle, with inspiration often taken from the mountain range.

Though already well-established, the French label has recently unveiled a new move: its first s/s collection. Starting with s/s 16, the luxury skiwear brand, which is typically known for its range of winter garments and iconic jackets, has transferred its successful concept and DNA to a lighter range designed for warmer weather. The s/s 16 line typically features a softer colour palette, with shades of cream, blue and orange playing pivotal roles. Lighter fabrics are used on chino trousers and shorts, which also have the option of a turn-up, reflecting the overall versatile nature of this range. The variety of prints seen across garments emphasises different tones, while a range of finishes, including bicolor cords, nautical knots and leather stoppers, act as garment highlights. Typical of the brand, collection pieces include functional features catering for an outdoor and active lifestyle.

Collection staples such as the Daniel jacket and the Marcel jacket emphasise an urban silhouette while reflecting Pyrenex’s typical natural look. Wholesale prices available upon request.

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NEWS NORTHERN SOUL Ska and Soul Limited, formerly known as Lambretta Clothing Limited, has launched for the new season with a new Northern Soul inspired collection. Comprising fine gauge knitwear, polos, shirts and tees, the range has been produced in partnership with DJ Russ Winstanley, and will bear the name of his legendary club, Wigan Casino.

Drawing inspiration from the iconic night spot in the 70s, buyers can expect to find multi-badged polos and tees, twin stripe badged knits, retro-print shirts and vintage inspired sportswear in chocolate, gold, maroon, sky blue, ecru, navy and black.

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DANIEL WELLINGTON PRICE ON REQUEST 01494 486 220

FILSON PRICE ON REQUEST 0207 434 3007

ICE WATCH £50.00 0800 368 1796

JUNGHANS PRICE ON REQUEST 0207 223 0964

GEORG JENSEN PRICE ON REQUEST 0203 824 8430

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TRIWA £83.25 0121 436 1200

TIMESAVERS The key to creating a comprehensive wardrobe offer is to make sure your accessories are versatile. The watch is essential, and although time pieces are less seasonal than other finishing touches, there are still trends to consider such as customisation, downsizing to an overall slimmer appearance and the use of white gold throughout for 2016.

— Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

VICTORINOX�PRICE�ON�REQUEST��������������

MAURICE�LACROIX�PRICE�ON�REQUEST���������������

STORM £42.99 0207 874 6900

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DOBSON £94 07734 952960 CHEAP MONDAY PRICE ON REQUEST 0344 844 8505

ALPINESTARS £30 00390 423 5286

SHIRT FIRE THING Forming the core of your store’s offer, every man knows the importance of having a variety of both casual and formal shirts in his wardrobe.

Although you can still expect to see traditional Oxford cottons, through to trend-led plaids and bleached denims, heritage-inspired work shirts are spotted in abundance for the spring months ahead.

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BELLFIELD £10.50 0844 477 4856

DUKE £9.99 0115 977 0009

NATIVE�YOUTH�������� 020 7739 7620

VOLCOM�������� 020 7729 2744

FILSON PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3216 0022

SOULSTAR £11.99 01623 756 644

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | BRANDS | 36

A–Z OF THE NEW SEASON Prepare for the a/w 16 buying season with our comprehensive A-Z guide to the product to buy, the trends to consider and those flying the flag for the finest men’s fashion across the globe.

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C IS FOR:

CLEAN LINES AT CINQUE

A

IS FOR:

ALBERTO’S RETURN TO THE 20S Alberto makes a return to the roaring 20s this season – a decade which saw structured wool pants, military chinos, cargo styles and the first blue denim jeans. Expect elasticated ankles, contrasting vegetable leather side pockets and a diluted palette of black, marine, brown and grey from the brand for a/w 16.

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With a distinct nod to Savile Row, Cinque presents double-breasted lounge suits, pinstripes and oversized coats for the new season. A highlight of the collection has to be the exposed check on boiled wool jersey jacket with patch pockets, teamed with slender, shortened trousers and black turtleneck. The meeting of minimalism and function is central to the brand’s design ethos, with the jacket in particular becoming an all-season piece. Styles include the Down biker with scuba details, the short bomber jacket with material mix and the Down hoodie with tapered sleeves.

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B IS FOR: BOXFRESH

A collection which oozes confidence, craftsmanship and attention to detail.

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D IS FOR: DIGEL SHADES OF GREY Digel presents two colour themes this season, the first being The Grey Nature. High quality wools with an earthy touch feature throughout, with an emphasis on monochrome looks, featuring dark graphite through to lighter concrete grey tones.

The second theme, The Blue Lounge, focuses on sporting elegance and Scandinavian style.

Jersey fabrics are central to this collection, putting comfort at the forefront in a blend of blues from navy and denim to inky tones and pale blue, contrasting with bordeaux and walnut shades.

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E

IS FOR:

IN THE BRAND’S WIDEST ACCESSORY COLLECTION TO DATE, ETON INTRODUCES THE SEVEN-FOLD TIE, CREATED FROM PREMIUM DRESS SHIRT FABRICS, ALONGSIDE SKINNY SILK AND WOOL SCARVES.

ETON

Evolved from Swedish craftsmanship and premium quality, the a/w 16 collection from Eton embodies creative innovation and diversity in style.

The new season welcomes deep colours and tone-on-tone micro-prints, alongside the refined pointed collar and bold block stripes. Finally, classic and contemporary are blended in the Eton Green collection (pictured).

Featuring large dimensional floral prints and classic polka dots, it offers the modern man the chance to add another element to his formal wardrobe.

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H IS FOR:

HONESTLY HELSINKI

FARAH’S REFINED SIMPLICITY Inspired by iconic product designer Dieter Rams – known for his designs for Braun in the 60s and 70s – the latest collection from menswear brand Farah encapsulates the belief that ‘less is better’.

Outerwear, for example, has an industrial feel with matt aluminium snaps on the Atwood parka, while the high quality yarn structure seen in the Otley Wool Mechanics jacket adds to the hardwearing yet premium feel of each garment.

Updated fits in denim and casual trousers mixed with new fabrications create a modern look and feel for the brand. However, with a nod to Farah’s rich trouser heritage, the new season will see the launch of the Denby Crop, made from a hopsack inspired fabric.

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G IS FOR:

GARMENT PROJECTS Pared back and designed with a Scandinavian aesthetic, Garment Projects focuses on a capsule colour palette of black, white and grey. The Classic Lace, for example, is a white low-top sneaker made in calf leather with tonal stitching, front lace closure and stitched on rubber sole.

Focusing on a range of wardrobe basics, these minimalist sneakers sit alongside premium shirts, sweatshirts and tees.

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F

IS FOR:

INNOVATION

Finnish menswear label Frenn draws inspiration from its home city of Helsinki for the a/w 16 season. The attitude is contemporary and relaxed, yet cool and sophisticated. Kicking off the collection is the prominent use of Merino wool, knitted into pullovers, cardigans, jackets and scarves. Modern denim, meanwhile, is either organic or super comfortable modal-cotton, used in durable jackets and trousers, designed to age beautifully. Finally, wool jersey jackets are teamed with crisp cotton poplin shirts and bamboo T-shirts.

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German trouser label Brühl presents yet another collection of classic designs, with interesting twists and finishes this season. Innovation is key, with highlights including the Brühl Mover, a highly elastic denim with 50 per cent stretch and tensile resilience. Another standout style is the thermo-trousers, which have a brushed cotton inner designed for warmth. Silhouettes have been slightly modified for a/w 16 with an ankle width of 16”, and slightly wider for some classic styles. The range of styles and fabrics are topped off by an extensive NOS programme.

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I

IS FOR:

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JAPANESE INFLUENCE

For the new season, outerwear specialist Elvine travelled to one of the world’s most fashion-forward cities, Tokyo, to gain design inspiration. Highlights of the a/w 16 offering include the hooded and padded wool jacket with matching wool pants, the wool coat teamed with a shiny hooded jacket, the knitted half turtleneck featuring a classic kimono pattern and an oversized shirtjacket teamed with relaxed pants with drawstring in the waist.

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J

IS FOR:

COMBINING THE CHERISHED TRADITIONS OF JAPAN WITH THE CREATIVE SUBCULTURAL MOVEMENT TOKYO IS KNOWN FOR NOW, ELVINE OFFERS A DYNAMIC AND EXCITING COLLECTION FOR THE NEW SEASON.

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L

K IS FOR: KNITWEAR

IS FOR:

LEATHER BOUND John Smedley introduces its latest collection, The Artistry of Knit, for the new season, inspired by the craftsmanship seen through the British abstract movement – in particular the work of artists such as Peter Lanyon, Patrick Heron and Victor Pasmore. The collection uses a tonal palette to replicate textures reminiscent of brush strokes from oil paintings. Standout shades include Gardner Red and Hepburn Smoke, whilst the highlight of the range has to be the Paint finish, which sees paint splashes recreated as an intricate jacquard print.

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Interesting and diverse, the Bugatti coat collection for a/w 16 focuses on a relaxed but masculine silhouette. Leather is key, alongside softshell models such as jersey with raw cut edges. The Travel segment, meanwhile, welcomes well-thought-out pocket and detail solutions – designed for tablets, mobile phones and headphones – including an integrated ‘power bank’ for two charges of a smartphone.

MOTORSPORT AND MENSWEAR

M IS FOR:

For over 50 years, Alpinestars has explored the balance of function and style, with motorsports as its main influence. The latest offering comprises knits, jackets, denim and accessories, all premium in fabric and finish in line with the brand’s Italian history. Predicted bestsellers are focused around the brand’s jacket offering, with the cotton blend twill Lane Split jacket set to be a collection highlight. Key colours for a/w 16, meanwhile, remain true to the brand with navy, red and black used throughout, while in term of prints and patterns, classic yarn dyed plaids are still popular, despite the increase in strong graphic treatments over prints across the rest of the line.

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TRADE SHOWS NATIONWIDE INDX MENSWEAR, SOLIHULL 03. - 04. FEBRUARY 2016 I.M.C. GROUP SHOW 07. - 08. FEBRUARY 2016 MODA MENSWEAR, BIRMINGHAM 21. - 23. FEBRUARY 2016

MICHAEL SPRIGGS AGENCIES PHONE 0116 2362304 MIKE@SPRIGGSMENSWEAR.CO.UK WWW.C-BRUEHL.COM

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P

“THE BLACK LINE COLLECTION WILL REFLECT QUALITY TAILORING AT ITS BEST REGARDING OUTFIT, FINISH AND

IS FOR:

SARTORIAL PERFORMANCE” KNUT HORSCH, HEAD OF PRODUCT MANAGEMENT, CARL GROSS

N IS FOR:

NORTH QUARTER British designer Christopher Shannon has unveiled North Quarter, a brand new line for a/w 16, aside from his eponymous label.

Delivering Shannon’s modernist vision of technical sportswear to a new premium shopper, North Quarter joins the dots between catwalk creativity and quality-led menswear.

The debut collection is a strong offering of 50 distinctively branded key pieces including jackets, knits, sweats, over-shirts and jog-pants.

A focus on tech-led fabrics includes bonded cottons, neoprene and soft-shell constructions.

Available on a wholesale basis, the brand will be targeting a selection of premium independents and department stores, with sales handled by distribution agency Zone Two. —

PREMIUM DIRECTION German menswear label Carl Gross has expanded into the premium sector this coming season, with the unveiling of its Black Line collection. The initial capsule range will include two semi-lined and fully lined jackets, one single-breasted two-button suit and a blazer coat. High quality finishes such as decorative stitching on the edgings of the jackets and pocket openings of the suit trousers add cache to the collection, whilst attention to detail is paramount, with handmade horn buttons and taking threads on the shoulders, pocket flaps and slits.

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O IS FOR: OUTERWEAR OFFERINGS

JOULES

REDPOINT

BENVENUTO BLACK LABEL

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Q IS FOR: QUINTESSENTIALLY BRITISH British lifestyle brand Joules presents two collections this season. The first, Berry Picker, blends rich purple, mallard blues and grey, whilst brighter shades can be seen in trims, slubs and accessories. Checks are large scale and graphics will be injected with a little humour.

Pheasant Plucker, meanwhile, will be more traditional in fabrics, with tartans and tweeds used throughout.

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ROY ROBSON

R

Roy Robson makes a return to the 70s this season, drawing inspiration IS FOR: from the architecture, interior design and clean colour schemes of the decade. The surfaces of the fabrics and knitwear are still, however, patterned with woven looks, prints, embroidery and 3D textile designs. There is a strong focus on premium quality throughout the entire collection, characterised by fine wools, felt fabrics and jacquards in camel tones.

— T IS FOR: TROUSER SPECIALIST MAC MAC showcases three themes this season, the first being Functional Businessman, inspired by formal sportswear.

Buyers can expect draw cord waistbands, slim cuffs at the hem and discreet cargo components. Secondly, Cultural Traveller draws influence from punk and goth elements of the 70s, with grainy denims and repaired effects. Finally, Classic Metropolitan features wool looks in classic textures such as herringbone, Prince of Wales checks and stripes.

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ROY ROBSON’S FLEDGING FOOTWEAR COLLECTION CONTINUES TO GROW THIS SEASON WITH THE INTRODUCTION OF THE CAP TOE DERBY AND MONK STRAP BROGUE.

OLYMP

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S

HATICO

IS FOR:

A WIDE VARIETY OF SHIRT LABELS INCLUDING OLYMP, ETERNA AND SEIDENSTICKER WILL BE SHOWCASING THEIR A/W 16 COLLECTIONS AT MODA GENT, HELD AT THE NEC BIRMINGHAM FROM 21-23 FEBRUARY 2016.

SEIDENSTICKER

U IS FOR:

Classic cuts and innovative fabric blends makes Camel Active’s underwear segment stand out for the new season. The CA 30 series is the season’s new addition, comprising classic briefs and pants, each available with or without elastic waistband. The CA 29 Function Fit series, meanwhile, offers an innovative combination of cotton, polyamide and elastane for functionality and elasticity. Finally, thanks to their comfortable wide fit, the CA 11 cotton boxer shorts can be co-ordinated with the tops from the complete underwear series.

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ETERNA

UNDERWEAR

SHIRTING

Shades of blue dominate the shirting category for the new season, with brands such as Eterna and Hatico presenting classic check designs in both indigo and navy options. Splashes of lime, however, add interest to this rather traditional trend, with Olymp incorporating the citrus tone into its graphic prints, while Seidensticker boldly choose an all-over lime shade for the younger, more style-conscious male.

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V IS FOR: VENTI Different inspirations leave their mark on Venti’s a/w 16 collection, primarily defined by colour. The range welcomes a new line, Venti Smart Casual Dept, which is a young casual concept in a slim cut. The latest addition will sit alongside Venti Edition, designed for after work hours, and Venti Edition Body Fit, for the body conscious, sportive man.

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WEEKEND OFFENDER

British lads’ label Weekend Offender takes on sportier silhouettes and fabrications this winter, blurring the line between work and play. Soft cotton polyamides work seamlessly alongside knitted counterparts.

The season’s colour palette comprises gasoline, bold red and turquoise. In regards to key prints, a number of styles throughout the range feature the placement of the brand’s signature white and navy stripe taping.

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X IS FOR: XANDER ZHOU Born and raised in China, Xander Zhou has quickly made a name for himself as an international menswear designer, using London Collections Men to showcase his a/w 16 range.

Exploring the boundaries between form and function, Zhou plays to the qualities of the various fabrics he uses. His latest collection is inspired by youth subcultures, and combines simple elegance with streetwise attitude.

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W IS FOR:

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Y

IS FOR:

YOUNG GUNS The new season sees CG Club of Gents present the younger trend-led fitted suit, in a range of decorative jacquards and ornate intrinsic weave patterns. The slim two-button model for the suit remains unchanged, while wider lapels, wider turn-ups and moderate waistband pleats signal an upgrade fashionwise. Waistcoats, meanwhile, are increasingly coming into focus, both in single and doublebreasted versions. On a whole, the colour range is subdued. Basic shades such as grey, blue and black form the basis, while mouliné effects, blends and coloured inserts introduce brighter shades.

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Z IS FOR:

OUTERWEAR IS CENTRAL TO THE CG CLUB OF GENTS A/W 16 OFFERING, WITH HIGHLIGHTS BEING UNLINED JERSEY BLAZERS, FAKE LAMBSKIN ON CAR COATS AND PANAMA WEAVES WITH DISCRETELY COLOURED INSERTS ON CABAN JACKETS.

ZIP DETAIL For a/w 16, iconic footwear label Palladium has invested in technology to develop its City Tech Collection, which keeps the tradition of the signature Pampa Boot, but includes elastic sock liner, zip back fastening, evolving build of the sole with Stroebel fit construction, fulllength cushioning midsole and nonslip rubber treads engineered for city terrain.

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Style: St Lucia

w w w. f r a n k w r i g h t s h o e s . c o m

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2015 RETAILER ROUND-UP 2015 was met with mixed feelings by many independents, with large-scale online and high-street discounting as well as extremely mild autumn/winter weather impacting on sales. There was, however, plenty to be positive about, as Tom Bottomley heard when he hit the phones for an end of year round-up.

— PETER TURNER Owner, Wellgosh, Leicester “Trading in 2015 was reasonably good. We set sensible targets based on steady growth, and we achieved them across the board. Footwear, and trainers in particular, has been a strong area for us again. In terms of our online/instore balance, we are seeing web sales increasing whilst instore business remains steady.

Adidas and Nike remain dominant for us on the sportswear side of the business. The continued investment that Adidas puts into the marketing of its higher tier and statement offerings is paying off. Replenishments from these styles are often impossible to get hold of, but this serves to increase the demand and popularity of them. The Nike Jordan brand is also really strong for us. Other successes for us include Our Legacy and

Norse Projects, whilst Japanese brands Cav Empt and Human Made are really working well.

I am reasonably confident for 2016. I think that online sales will continue to grow in relation to the instore business, but you have to look at the big picture and accept that the modern fashion store needs to work as a multichannel model.”

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JONNY GEORGE Buyer, Elements, Norwich “The year started off very well but from to May to July trade cooled off slightly both online and in store. Overall though, we will be up on the year before which is encouraging.

Farah has been a key performer throughout the year. Good, easy product at an accessible price.

Gibson is also extremely strong for us over autumn/winter, with its blazer and waist jacket combinations and extensive knitwear and shirting.

Jeffery-West has been a solid performer on footwear. We have a good customer base for it in the store and online.

Key products last year included Farah ‘Brewer’ Oxford shirts, Herschel ‘Settlement’ backpacks and Fila ‘Settanta’ track jackets, a casual classic. All these products are heavily backed by their brands, offering easy replenishment and new colourways through the seasons.

We are conscious of other retailers continually offering online discounts and we have decided not to try and compete. Instead we focus on the brick and mortar side of the business. It’s very rare to find customers comparing prices on their phones in the store.”

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STEVE ENGLISH Owner, Cooshti, Bristol “I’d say 2015 was mostly on a par with 2014, although mid-summer was a bit slow.

Nike continues to dominate our footwear sales and achieve excellent sell-throughs.

Reordering is usually difficult as the stock is produced to order and, if there is anything available to reorder, the winners have usually sold out straight away. Asics and Stüssy are also

performing well. In fact, Stüssy, ‘the grand daddy of streetwear brands’ continues to be our best selling streetwear brand. The Quiet Life from LA also does

well for us, as do contemporary/street crossover brands like Wood Wood from Copenhagen. On denim, Edwin is still strong.

We discounted for the Black Friday weekend and achieved a much higher than usual turnover, but there was a bit of a lull before and after that weekend.

In 2016 we are hoping to improve our online market share, and overall turnover, with a new website. We’ll be going to Jacket Required to get an overview, and Capsule to look for new brands.”

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RICHARD CLEWS Managing Director, Ashworth & Bird, Barnsley, Wakefield, Reigate and Jersey “We saw decent growth in the first half of 2015, but this slowed down in August through to October. Stone Island seems to be going from strength to strength, Barbour is also performing very well currently and Boss continues to sell well across the Black, Orange and Green Labels.

We’re also having a good time with separate jackets/blazers this season where people are dressing that little bit smarter.

Outerwear in general has been a key category for us, with higher price point pieces from Belstaff, Hugo Boss and Paul & Shark meaning we weren’t too reliant on high footfall during the quieter weeks.

Unfortunately there has been a huge amount of discounting across the industry this season. This, combined with the amount of product available over the internet, means we have had no choice but to run our own in-season promotions. But by tying these

promotions in to things like VIP customer events, we hopefully avoided the perception of being constantly on Sale. We’re optimistic that the growth we have seen in 2015 will continue into 2016.”

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | RETAIL | 50

2015 RETAILER ROUND-UP CON’T...

JASON ODY Owner, Le Monde, Wolverhampton “The winter weather being so mild has definitely been a factor affecting sales, but thankfully we didn’t buy too heavily in to outerwear. Stone Island has been really good for us. We buy more across the range these days. They have good transitional jackets as well, so they’re not so heavy, but the whole thing has been working across T-shirts, polos, sweats, shirt-jackets, jeans and accessories. With the more special jackets Stone Island do, the collectors tend to buy them.

Armani Jeans has also been having a renaissance. I think customers previously didn’t want to wear what their fathers wore, or even what their older brothers wore. But they seem to be going back to the Italian brands now. The prices for Armani Jeans are slightly more accessible now too.

Discounting both online and on the high street is becoming a real issue. We didn’t get involved with Black Friday. We’re trying to protect these brands. They are premium brands. You don’t get Rolexes

DAVID FAIRTHORNE Owner, Trapeze, Cheltenham

“We had a really good October, which was a surprise, and up on last year. November was not as good, but we held our own through December. Black Friday was a bit of a killer

for everyone. A lot of people were also going in to Sale before Christmas. But we weren’t over-stocked, so I was quite happy about that and we held on to go on Sale until the day after Boxing Day. We don’t open on Boxing Day; it’s nice to have a couple of days off!

Some of the brands we do have really taken off. Stone Island is working really well, and on the other end of the price point Farah has got a good following with the younger market. It was also a good price point for Christmas presents, so parents were coming in and buying for their sons. Fred Perry has also been okay on that similar look. Overall, I really can’t complain.”

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in sales, do you?”

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MARK TAYLOR Buyer, Pockets, Shrewsbury, Newcastle Under Lyme, Hanley, Worcester and Nantwich “We’ve had a good autumn/winter season.

We’re happy and positive about it. We haven’t had a quiet store, and we’ve hit targets, so we’re where we needed to be at each of our shops. Footfall was a bit quieter for

the Christmas period generally, but our average spend has gone up. We invested in higher end products and price points, and it’s paid dividends.

We’ve done really well with technical outerwear, though overcoats have been slower because of the milder weather. We’ve done fantastically well with Moncler, Stone Island and Boss Black Label. The lighter-weight Moncler down jackets have really sold well for us, especially the gilets – again because of the weather.

We’ve had a slower time with the Paul Smith formalwear, but the casual side has still been relatively good. In fact, suiting has been slow, but we’ve done well with tweed and textured jackets.

Deconstructed jackets have done well from everybody, especially Canali and Boss Black. It’s been more about mixing and matching jackets and trousers as opposed to suits.”

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DAVID JOHNSON Owner, John Douglas, Macclesfield “It’s been inconsistent, with peaks and troughs, but in the last two weeks up to Christmas there was more of a surge. The last Saturday before Christmas actually beat our all-time best ever single day’s trading. Knitwear has been especially strong, despite the milder weather, with Barbour, Ted Baker and the slim-fit, more fashion style fine-gauge Merino knits from Fred Perry and Matinique all performing very well. On outerwear, the Crombie style coat has been a winner with our younger customers getting into it. It’s reinventing the classics again, and Remus, Ted Baker and Matinique’s more slim-fit fashion style coats have been in demand.

The Barbour quilted jackets have dropped off, but the wax jackets are still selling really well. We’ve also smashed it with

Pretty Green, Camel Active and Gibson. The dedicated window displays we did really drew people in.

I think the really bad weather is going to hit us in January and February, so I’m going to reinvent the shop and just have a couple of small clearance areas.”

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | PREVIEW | 52

JACKET REQUIRED Jacket Required is back on 3 and 4 February at the Old Truman Brewery, with a new and mighty fine roster of first-time exhibitors. With plenty of freshness to get the buying juices going, here’s a little taster.

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MOSEVIC EYEWEAR Mosevic Eyewear is set to continue redefining the boundaries for denim innovation. Yes, that’s right, denim eyewear. It’s layered in resin to make it solid, and it don’t half look rock ‘n’ roll round the eyes. For a/w 16 the main collection is expanding with a set of new frame styles, as well as a series of collaborations with some exciting brands (which are hush-hush until the Jacket Required show). This will lead to exclusive, limited edition collections using a greater range of fabrics alongside the denim staple, including some ‘pops’ of colour. The designers have also been busy taking time to understand how Mosevic can improve its sustainability through use of eco materials. Cool eyewear with a conscience.

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PIKE BROTHERS Pike Brothers flies in on a vintage tip from Germany, albeit with a brand name that stems from two brothers who made menswear from the 1930s to the 1950s in London. Focusing on vintage European workwear fabrics for a/w 16, the styles are sturdy yet elegant at the same time. “Our garments are more than the sum of fabrics, patterns and accessories; they have a real story to tell,” says brand owner Fabian Jedlitschka. The team like to spend their free time outdoors, so they know about the value of functional and high-quality garments. In order to fulfil their high expectations, they work together with exclusive European weavers and tailoring shops where the garments are made by hand, using traditional craftsmanship.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | PREVIEW | 53

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GRIND LONDON Since 2008, Grind London has focused on developing an honest approach to ‘roadready’ menswear, aiming to mix original concepts with the brand’s own roots and culture, which draws inspiration from many aspects of London’s various subcultures, past and present. For a/w 16, Grind London presents ‘The International Collection’, aka ‘Concorde Chapters’, a collection celebrating the wonderful world of yesteryear travel.

There’s a water resistant Poly suede hooded mac, available in olive and black, coach jackets, crew-neck sweatshirts in Japanese loopback cotton, denim shirting, bomber jackets and long sleeved polo shirts in Pima cotton. In summary, a collection of garments you can wear any time, anywhere. ‘Come fly with me’ seems to be the order of the day.

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DOUBLE A-SIDE Double A-Side is an independent ready-to-wear brand inspired by and largely manufactured in London. For a/w 16, Double A-Side continues to take cues from the built-up environment and harsh architecture of the capital’s cityscape. The collection is minimal and modern, with a heaviness and tactility that echoes the concrete creations from which they draw inspiration. Warmer garments, such as gilets, padded overshirts and a Sherpa bomber jacket have been added in to the collection, complementing the existing linear layers. An expanded colour palette, including green, navy and black, has allowed the Double A-Side aesthetic to evolve from its minimal grey jersey basics. The ‘unisex’ code sweatshirts and subtle graphic T-shirts build upon the signature silhouettes, providing variety without superfluous decoration.

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THE TAILOR RETAILORED

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PRETTY GREEN Where other men of music who have launched clothing lines have fallen flat on their Fender Stratocasters, Liam Gallagher has hit the high notes. Established in 2009, and named after a track by legendary mod-punk trio The Jam, Pretty Green has gone from strength to strength and is making its debut appearance for two days only at the forthcoming show. An all-new capsule ‘Hendrix Collection’ should set the show alight, though hopefully there won’t be any accompanying guitars set on fire. A/w 16 also sees the development of the footwear range into a full and comprehensive offer. In the main ‘Green’ line, the use of bold prints continues, with the signature paisley evolving into a large disruptive pattern. Psychedelic influences continue through prints and a striking colour palette, and there’s plenty of technical fabrics and ergonomic cuts to make it relevant for the modern world. Outerwear is key, with parkas headlining the collection. It’s all very rock ‘n’ roll, but we like it.

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The Tailor Retailored redefines men’s cashmere knitwear for a/w 16 with sleek, elegant, tailored ‘essentials’ in boy’s own colours with punchy ribbed trims, contrast buttons, military grosgrain and modernist geometric leather patched elbows. Made entirely from the finest cashmere, the collection roots its production in Scotland, with sweater stories inspired by Slim Aarons’ iconic photographs of Palm Beach down time, in sun-drenched blue and patrician sable stripes, off-kilter Argyle and heavy braided cables. Fine-gauge tee sweaters nestle with traditional ribbed fisherman’s knits. Peruvian inspired hand intarsia patterns and heavy ply marls are updated in Marvel Comics colours and graphic black and white. The line is supported with luxurious knitted cashmere accessories.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | PREVIEW | 54

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PERRY ELLIS AMERICA In 1984, American designer Perry Ellis collaborated with Levi’s to produce a capsule collection.

The brand, named Perry Ellis America, was an overnight success. Now, in 2016, under the creative direction of Michael Maccari, the brand is relaunching Perry Ellis America with a menswear collection designed specifically for Europe, fusing European style with American sportswear. The first collection, for s/s 16, is launching in the UK exclusively with House of Fraser, as well as in Paris with Galeries Lafayette. But the a/w 16 collection will see distribution channels opening up across Europe, and Jacket Required will mark the first real introduction of the brand in the wholesale marketplace. The design objective is the same as for the s/s 16 collection: to create a ‘day to night’ collection that can be layered on top of an existing wardrobe to enhance and renew looks. In terms of product categories, there is a focus around sweaters and outerwear pieces, with an element of transitional pieces so they can be layered up.

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SAMSØE & SAMSØE Samsøe & Samsøe hails from Copenhagen, and is a first-time showing at Jacket Required. The brand actually dates back to 1993, when two creative brothers opened a Samsøe & Samsøe jewellery store in the Latin Quarter of Copenhagen. After a short while the siblings started designing and producing clothes, and demand grew rapidly, as did the company. In 2000 Peter Sextus Rasmussen and Per Ulrik Andersen bought the brand and since then they have managed a company on the move. The fundamental identity of Samsøe & Samsøe is based on unique and recognisable Scandinavian design: raw details, freedom and simplicity as well as tailored, up-to-date trends. Sportswear fuses with classic tailoring, shaping a look that is contemporary yet timeless.

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NODUS

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WOLSEY USP A world-leading manufacturer of premium socks and undergarments, with an unrivalled history that dates back to 1755, Wolsey has produced hosiery for polar explorers Captain Scott, Roald Amundsen and Sir Ernest Shackleton and equipped British and Allied troops during WWI. So it makes perfect sense to launch Wolsey USP – USP standing for underwear, socks and pyjamas – to modern customers.

Never taking its past for granted, Wolsey has harnessed technological innovations and modern fabric development to create the finest socks available. A/w 16 highlights include a classic herringbone pattern, muted military camouflage and a wave pattern inspired by Scottish trawler men.

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Providing what could be a big hit for Christmas prezzies this year, Nodus is further expanding its collection of Italian vegetable-tanned leather accessories for the a/w 16 season.

Several new slimline wallets effortlessly combine functionality with style, having been cleverly designed to keep your essentials safe with zonal RFID technology and an abundance of sneaky pockets for cards, cash, keys and coins. The original ‘Access Phone’ case range, along with the newer ‘Shell Case’ line, are now available in some new autumnal colours of deep green and graphite grey. The Nodus collection’s sophisticated take on everyday accessories is one to watch this season.

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | RETAIL | 57

NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS Whether made to be broken or followed to a T, it’s always good to have goals in mind. As one year rolls into the next, six retailers share their in-store New Year’s resolutions.

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STUART HOPKINS Manager, ZigZag, Chichester — “We’re going to smash re-ordering and keep orders as tight as possible. The seasons are shorter now, so I’d like to be able to respond to customer orders faster. Without overbuying and spreading the ordering out, I’ll be able to replenish stock quicker. I generally just want to be a bit more intuitive with orders and more hands-on with the stock management.”

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PAUL MORARJI Owner, Niro, Peterborough —

“I want to teach myself what SEO really means. I want to increase my knowledge about coding and SEO so that when I hire someone to take control of this element of the business I can manage them and set expectations. More knowledge surrounding the e-retail arm of my business will mean I have more tools going forward to make my website successful.”

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DAVID WINK Owner, Crosbys of Seaford, East Sussex —

“Our resolution is to maintain our steady growth over the last two years by attracting new business from the Brighton and Eastbourne areas through exploring new ways of networking and promotion of the business. Also to never buy what agents and reps recommend, but buy and build on our bestsellers within our buying budgets.”

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MARTIN MCQUILLAN Owner, McQuillans Menswear, Portadown, Craigavon — “Like many retailers, we have had several years of tough trading but now we’re really looking forward to 2016 with more emphasis on customer service as we employ in-house tailors and offer a free alteration service when garments are purchased in-store. We are now finding customers are shying away from internet purchasing in favour of the personal touch.”

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LUKE DENNISON Owner, Ashes Menswear, Bournemouth — MAGGIE MAJID Owner, Yakuza, Sunderland — “We want to encourage more customers to shop in-store. The online trade has struck the high street hard. Like many others, we are finding it hard in-store. We’re going to go back to basics, maintaining good customer service, excellent product knowledge and exclusive products in-store only. We’ll provide the customer with more in-store incentives to shop, promotions and freebies.”

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“We are aiming to adapt our brand mix and introduce a few anchor brands to the store. We’d like to improve our brand alignment and sit some big-name brands alongside our other brands. We’re still providing niche labels in-store, but would like to lure customers in to the store who might not consider exploring such brands otherwise.”

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK ADVERTORIAL | 58

SLAITH: THE BIGGEST BREAKTHROUGH IN KNITWEAR FOR 160 YEARS Heritage isn’t a word we use lightly at Slaith. We know what our trade meant to our fathers, their fathers and their fathers before them. From the heartlands of the textile trade in Yorkshire, indeed, from the world’s best, we know a thing or two about spinning. And that’s exactly how we’ve created the finest seamless cashmere and merino 30gg garments: knitwear of the highest quality, arriving in 2016.

— So when we say heritage, we mean the skills and knowledge built up over centuries. We mean the best machinery, built when quality was the de facto consideration, rather than cost. We mean people who know this trade. And we mean people who care about their craft and customer. All these things can be too easily forgotten in a modern world of speed and consumerism. But to do so would be to lose so much more than tradition.

Slaith captures the essence of our trade, our history and our way of life, and translates this into the pinnacle of what’s achievable in quality knitwear. We use finely tuned machinery, with every garment finished lovingly by hand. At Slaith, our skill and craftsmanship allows us to produce the best whilst always keeping an eye firmly on our roots. We create the finest seamless, 30gg cashmere and merino garments with greater comfort and a superior fit.

Slaith is defined by timeless elegance and not the false constraints of fashion. The quality of our garments speaks volumes, and with every stitch, a little piece of our heritage is transferred to our customers.

We’ve spent years refining our knitwear into the Slaith brand, which in itself is the culmination of arguably 160 years of refinement within our industry from the moment the first automated knitting machine arrived. By blending a variety of rare fibres with multistrand compound yarns, we’re able to create something of superior quality: a unique yarn that is set to redefine knitwear, the quality of which has never before been seen or felt. Hand finished in

Slaithwaite, to be the best in the world. Once again.

Dating back to a time of great wealth and power, Yorkshire cloth was the envy of the textile world, producing some of the finest fabrics, woollen and worsted. The choice of the discerning, the label ‘Made in Huddersfield’ meant something the world over. It meant excellence, it meant pride, it meant passion, the one true constant in ever-changing times.

In 2016 that heritage, that determination to produce the best, is being brought back to life in this Yorkshire town. Man and machine in perfect harmony.

So when we talk about heritage, we know a thing or two about the responsibility that this brings. Welcome to Slaith.

SEE IT FIRST AT JACKET REQUIRED THE OLD TRUMAN BREWERY, LONDON 3-4 FEBRUARY 2016 WWW. SLAITH.CO.UK

160 YEARS IN THE MAKING The highest quality knitwear ever made, ever seen, ever worn.

S E E I T F I R S T AT J AC K E T R E Q U I R E D T H E O L D T R U M A N B R E W E R Y, L O N D O N , 3-4 FEBRUARY 2016

M A D E I N H U D D E R S F I E L D, E N G L A N D W W W. S L A I T H . C O . U K

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | PROFILE | 60

EAST MEETS WEST ohw? is upping its game for a/w 16 to attract more UK retailers, with the introduction of Goodyear welted construction footwear in its all-new ‘Waterproof’ and ‘Commando’ ranges. Tom Bottomley finds out what prompted the move from ohw?’s co-owner and Chief Executive Officer, Stephen Gill.

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Launched in 2012 with just two understated styles, ohw? is now gaining real market interest, and has six new ranges for a/w 16, including the introduction of higher-end footwear which blends the traditional craftsmanship of Goodyear welted construction with more casual and sporty shoe styles.

The ohw? brand is co-owned by Stephen Gill, who is also the CEO, and his partner, Hiro Chen, two footwear professionals with many years of experience who set up Sungill Limited as the holding company. “Our aim is simple,” says Gill. “To bring a fresh approach to men’s footwear with contemporary and functional designs manufactured in our own factory in China.”

The factory is part of a larger, family-owned group that has been making shoes for over 25 years. The ohw? manufacturing facility that is part of the group is wholly owned by the ohw? brand.

“Unlike many brands that source their footwear from outside suppliers, we believe our customers should know the provenance of the shoes they buy. We have full control over how our shoes are made. And the brand name reflected backwards conveys that customers can trace their purchase right back to where it was made,” says Gill.

A/w 16 sees the introduction of Goodyear welted construction for the first time with ohw?’s new ‘Waterproof’ and ‘Commando’ ranges.

Usually the preserve of traditional formal footwear manufacturers, the construction involves an intricate process whereby a strip of leather, the ‘welt’, is stitched to both the insole and the upper and then attached to the outer sole with a heavy-duty lock-stitch seam.

“We believe there is room in the market for a more technical based, but traditionally manufactured product,” offers Gill. “This is part of the skill base of our factory, so it was a natural step for us.” The slightly higher price points reflect the craftsmanship, but will also give ohw? the opportunity to appeal to more premium menswear and footwear accounts. The ‘Commando’ line is set to retail at £130, while the ‘Waterproof’ collection starts at £150 and goes up to £160 retail. “Each shoe is also even individually hand-signed by the person doing the final quality check,” adds Gill.

The ‘Commando’ range of Goodyear welted boots comprises two styles, a hand-stitched apron front boot called ‘Nash’, and a plain front boot called ‘Stokes’, both on a heavy rubber commando outsole. Hiking laces, metal eyelets and ski hook fastenings add to the range’s rugged

outdoor appeal. The ‘Waterproof’ range has been launched in response to customer demand and further demonstrates the factory’s manufacturing skills and expertise. Again with two designs, there’s a high-cut plain front boot called ‘Ambler’, and a low-cut moccasin style boot called ‘Holden’.

They come in a hydrophobic full grain leather and treated suede and wool. The designs are manufactured using a ‘bootie’ construction, which incorporates a waterproof membrane between the lining and the upper material. The membrane also has insulating properties.

“All the materials we use are of the highest quality, ranging from premium suede, nubuck and full grain leathers to more technical materials such as neoprene, textured rubber and hypoallergenic Ariaprene,” says Gill. Every pair also comes with leather linings and socks, as well as details such as padded tongues and collars, and authentic touches such as hand-stitching and size markers along the cut edges of the upper materials (the traditional way that shoemakers indicate the sizes of cut pieces). “Our factory is a third generation family-owned business and the recipient of numerous quality, development and technical awards. Designs are kept simple and uncluttered to allow us to showcase these skills, the standard of our manufacturing and our attention to detail.” ohw?’s design process takes place in the UK. Gill says they collaborate with “leading footwear designers” to translate their pick of the latest footwear trends. They then work closely with the production team in China to develop them from concept to reality. Another prime example is ohw?’s new ‘Reflection’ line, aimed at the luxury trainer market, with an exaggerated IMEVA sole unit with leather rand. The line features six styles, including two lace-up half boots called ‘Horak’ and ‘Freddy’. Also new for a/w 16 is the more competitively priced ‘Glide’ range of trainer boots and trainers, featuring five different styles.

The last two ranges of the six are the new ‘Traveller’ and ‘Relax’ lines. ‘Relax’ is the most understated range, and all three styles in the ‘Traveller’ range come on a casual sports-inspired sole unit.

So there really is plenty to appeal to different types of retailers at different price points. Says Gill: “We are currently selling well in the US and Canada with key stockists such as Saks, and also in Hong Kong through Harvey Nichols. We want to increase our UK account base, but we want to do it with the right retail partners.”

Gilet – Pyrenex £110 020 7608 9100 Bag – The Healthy Back Bag Company £68.23 020 7812 9800 Striped knitted jumper – Casual Friday price on request 020 3432 6387 Bomber jacket – Casual Friday price on request 020 3432 6387

Metallic finishes, bold use of colour and heavy branding: this season’s looks are all about the unexpected.

Jacket – Penfield £60 020 7720 5050 Top – Native Youth £8 0161 835 2064 Jeans – Mish Mash £24.95 01422 371 228

Puffa jacket – Fila £36 01923 288 5501 Tracksuit top – Ellesse £20 b.emery@focus-north.net Tracksuit bottoms – Ellesse £16 b.emery@focus-north.net

Jacket – Pyrenex £137 020 7608 9100 Shirt – Aigle £32 01608 813860 T-shirt – Cheap Monday price on request 0344 844 8505 Tracksuit bottoms – Soulstar £12.99 01623 756 604 Shoes – ohw? £52 01858 466 566

Tracksuit top – Weekend Offender £25.93 01332 342 068 Tracksuit bottoms – Weekend Offender £25.93 01332 342 068 Top – Fila £18 01923 288 5501

Denim jacket – Soulland €70 0045 2615 0186 Shirt – Pearly King £29 01422 371 228 Trousers – Pearly King £32 01422 371 228 Necklace – Stylist’s own Shoes – Mulo £50 020 3740 3533

Jacket – Parka London £137.50 020 7424 6887 Shirt – Casual Friday price on request 020 3432 6387 Trousers – Native Youth £13.50 0161 835 2064

Jacket – Luke 1977 £50 01869 366 580 Sweatshirt – Waven £13.79 020 7739 7621 Tracksuit bottoms – Alpha Industries £20 01869 366 580

Shirt – Realm & Empire £48 01858 466 729 Ring – Northskull price on request 020 3744 2484 Trousers – Native Youth £17 0161 835 2064

Jacket – Alpha Industries £70 01869 366 580 T-shirt – Blend price on request 020 3432 6387

Photographer: Chris Harvey www.iamharvey.co.uk Make-up artist: Jessica Wigley www.makeupbyjessica.co.uk Stylist: Victoria Jackson Model: Henry Underwood www.bossmodelmanagement.co.uk

Parka – Claes Göran £135 07930 952 952 Jumper – Soulland €58 0045 2615 0186

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | PROFILE | 78

25 YEARS IN STYLE Starting out with footwear that hit the mark with Leeds’ clubbers in 1991, Nicholas Deakins is all set to celebrate its 25th anniversary. With the brand’s full apparel collection having grown just as big as its shoe business over the past five years, co-founder and managing director Craig Nicholas Tate tells Tom Bottomley there’s plenty more to come.

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With a special logo commissioned, Nicholas Deakins is a brand that wants to shout about its 25th anniversary. There are even limited edition products, including an updated version of its famed boots that clubbers so loved in the early 90s, and a collaboration with outerwear company Peter Storm.

Co-founder and managing director Craig Nicholas Tate explains that they have worked with Leeds-based marketing company Space People to come up with a special logo, as opposed to just saying Nicholas Deakins ‘25’. “They’ve looked back at where and how we started out,” says Tate. “It was intrinsically linked to night clubbing. Dave Beer was just opening Back to Basics in Leeds. That was a really well known club night, not just in Leeds, everyone knew about it, and it was the same time I first did the shoes. One of the big things was they wouldn’t let people into the clubs in trainers, so our boots became the choice footwear for the lad about town. The backdrop to the new logo is all the different flyers of all the different club nights that were going on in Leeds 25 years ago.” It will feature on swing tickets of all the new garments. The Nicholas Deakins shop, on Boar Lane in Leeds, will also have its walls wallpapered with the graphics.

The new a/w 16 look book for trade and press centres on a location shoot around Leeds where all the various club nights of the time were

happening, such as at The Warehouse and The Faversham, both venues which still exist. Needless to say they were shooting outside. “We used five different locations where club nights used to be happening,” offers Tate.

The original boot didn’t even have a name, just a code number, 7349. It was an elasticated square toe commando boot. “That was the first one, made at WJ Brookes in Northampton, the factory that later become famous for making fetish footwear, which is what the film Kinky Boots is all about.” For the anniversary, the modern version of the 7349, made in Europe, is a higher end product. “It’s quite a high boot with a round toe, more of an outdoor type boot,” explains Tate.

“It’s got quite a fashion edge to it.”

Nicholas Deakins has a full lifestyle range these days, with outerwear, denim, polos, T-shirts, hats, belts and even socks and underwear. “The clothing range is as big, if not bigger than the footwear range now,” says Tate. “It’s been a really big growth area for us. Our Yorkshire rose logo, which we’ve used since day one, becomes more prominent to people when it’s on items of clothing, whether it’s a chest badge on a jacket or a logoed T-shirt, and that helps to get the brand ‘out there’ more.”

Another anniversary launch sees a new collaboration with rainwear specialists Peter Storm. Tate thought it was a good fit with Nicholas Deakins apparel because outerwear is an area

where they are particularly strong. The brand Peter Storm is owned by JD Sports nowadays (having formed part of its takeover of Blacks Leisure in 2012), as is Nicholas Deakins.

“We’ve kept the original Peter Storm shape, as an overhead or a zip-through windcheater, but we’ve made it into a funnel neck. It’s more about the materials and the details because we’ve made it more premium. It’s a waterproof material and we’ve taped all the seams.” There’s also some water resistant footwear to tie in with the collaboration, which features some of the same materials that have been used on the jackets.

When it comes to the main Nicholas Deakins footwear range for a/w 16, which is the brand’s 50th collection, there’s an interesting array of materials including embossed leather, suede, cord, pull-up leathers and waterproof nylon.

“We’re also using a lot of shearling lining, which has proved really popular on our clothing,” says Tate. All will be revealed at Jacket Required in February.

The distinctive rose logo of Nicholas Deakins will certainly be one for retailers to watch out for in 2016, whether you’re from Leeds or not. Says Tate: “We were told years ago that we’d never sell anything in Manchester with a Yorkshire rose on it. But it just looks like a rose, we’d not actually picked out white or red. And, as it happens, Manchester has been one of our best places for business over the past 25 years.”

s h ow i n g at

www.nicholasdeakins.com info@nicholasdeakin.com 0044 (0)113 244 6875

3 & 4 F E B R UA RY 2 0 1 6

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | REPORT | 80

SOUND ADVICE Music is a vital ingredient of any fashion retailer’s brand mix and can be the key to keeping staff motivated and customers spending. MWB has enlisted the knowledge of two experts who explain why it is so crucial and give top tips on how to maximise the effect of sound in-store.

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“Music is so incredibly valuable to businesses.

Music is as much part of a business’s identity as its name or décor and we work closely with our customers to ensure music brings their brand to life. Music plays such a vital role for both customer engagement and staff productivity and as a business we are deeply committed to continuous research and learning in these areas,” says Paul Clements, commercial director at PRS for Music, which licenses organisations to play, perform or make available music and runs a Music Makeover scheme for businesses.

The effect music has on in-store ambience and therefore the engagement, enjoyment and experience your customers have when they visit cannot be underestimated and is directly linked with sales performance – which is why big players such as Diesel enlist the help of professional

music suppliers to tailor their music to their store environment and target audience. “In order to ensure the consumer has a true brand shopping experience, the music we play in our stores is extremely important,” says Caroline Billingham, Diesel’s retail director for northern Europe. “We work closely with our music supplier who creates specific playlists to engage at any time throughout the day. The right music can make the difference to how long the consumer spends in our stores and how they feel about the brand.”

PRS for Music has been licensing music for more than 100 years and is a society of around 115,000 songwriters, composers and music publishers. It represents the rights of these members, as well as members of roughly 150 affiliated societies in nearly 100 countries around the world, by licensing organisations to play,

perform or make available music. It then distributes the royalties it collects to those members and societies fairly and efficiently. With 14.7 million musical works in its repertoire, nearly 90 percent of all money collected is distributed to its members.

“There are currently around 210,000 businesses helping secure the future of British music which is something we’re hugely proud of and grateful for,” Clements says. “We constantly speak to our customers to build up valuable case studies in all sectors to use and educate not only our staff but our existing and potential customers.”

To promote the importance of music in business, PRS for Music launched its Music Makeover competition in 2011 for the pub sector.

Now the competition is being expanded to

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | REPORT | 81

TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR MUSIC Even though music is not a tangible physical thing, your customers are experiencing your brand through sound whether you like it or not. If you’re not in control of it, you’re missing a trick.

Some fashion stores don’t think about it hard enough and just play mainstream chart music or a random selection. But doing this means you are not reflecting your brand identity and you could end up sounding like everybody else on the high street.

Retailers need to consider which music represents their brand and how it will speak to their audience. Music can be used creatively to make you stand out.

What is your offer? Are you a premium store selling premium products therefore wanting people to linger for longer? If so, you also should be thinking about the type of music you use so that it conveys your high-end positioning, but also make sure the tempo is appropriate. For example, slower tempo music will relax people and encourage longer browsing, whereas fast music could stimulate people to move through the store quicker.

‘DAY-PARTING’ YOUR MUSIC SELECTION Time of day is crucial to what music you play. The feel of the music should be in tune with your trading pattern. For instance you may want to start the day with gentle rather than full-on sounds and gradually grow in tempo as you get busier. There is a different atmosphere on a busy Saturday shopping day to a quiet Tuesday morning and your music should reflect and acknowledge that.

Also pay attention to lyrical content. You don’t want to offend customers, so be mindful of swear words or cultural sensitivities.

include fashion retailers. The prize includes a £5,000 makeover which can be spent on a new music system for your store alongside a bespoke music consultancy service advising fashion retailers about equipment and music choices.

PRS for Music will also host an event in the winning store featuring PRS for Music members.

“We are very excited to be expanding our Music Makeover competition to fashion retailers in May this year, where we offer the winning store a £5,000 makeover as well as an exclusive consultation on their music use. There are still a number of people who don’t realise music can add a real layer of competitive advantage to their business, or know how to use music to its full potential, which is where PRS for Music and the business-to-business music services we licence can advise,” Clements says.

USING MUSIC TO CUSTOMISE ATMOSPHERE The atmosphere in-store is crucial. You want to create a welcoming atmosphere and music plays a vital role in achieving this. The atmosphere is something that needs managing. Monitor the volume levels; assess how the music sounds. Also investing in a decent quality sound system will help create a better atmosphere. Low quality speakers will sound cheap and nasty and won’t create an engaging environment.

EXPANDING YOUR MUSIC SELECTION Some stores allow staff to choose music, but this has its flaws as they are likely to be selecting tracks based on their personal taste rather than music that evokes the essence of the brand. It’s also important to make sure the music is regularly updated whilst keeping it on-brand. Keeping the music fresh and relevant will be noticed by customers.

Music is such a wonderful and powerful art form that can be used in a creative and strategic way for your business to touch people’s hearts and emotionally connect with them. So why not use it to sound inspiring and unique, helping your store experience and brand stand out.

Rob Wood is creative director of bespoke music consultancy service Music Concierge, which has worked with brands such as Mulberry and Harvey Nichols.

For more information on Music Makeover and its launch day on 16 May 2016, visit www.prsformusic.com/musicmakeover — For more information on Music Concierge, visit www.musicconcierge.co.uk

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MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | PEOPLE | 84

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK THE VOO STORE ORANIENSTRASSE 24, KREUZBERG, BERLIN

SIMON SAYS The last of the turkey has been inventively turned into some new kind of fricassee, unwanted presents tucked away into this year’s re-gifting box and New Year resolutions already broken so drink may as well be taken. Yes, it’s early January.

Looking back on 2015, for Simon Carter, it was a good year. My first full year with Prominent, as principal licensees, was a success. Switching licensees is like getting divorced and remarried on the same day. Just twice as stressful. But I felt very proud when I saw my own Savile Row showroom for the first time. Really very grown up.

Another highlight was my shoe range. Originally a co-branded license range sold in Singapore and Malaysia, we bought a trial order for our own stores and it sold out. Three repeats later, and a much enlarged a/w range, and shoes account for up to 10 per cent of sales at retail. I’m taking this a stage further, and starting to wholesale the shoes for a/w 16.

So what did Father Christmas bring? Well he brought a good Black Friday, for a start. Having decided in 2014 that it was a passing fad, rather like The Dowager Countess of Grantham in Downton Abbey dismissing electricity, we were caught with our pants down. So for 2015, we went very targeted, deep, and precise with 70 per cent off seven styles for seven days. It worked. Sales in-store and online were 30 per cent up.

Christmas itself was OK. Some bits very good, one or two not. I invested in our website this year rather than open another store, and was gratified by a 24 per cent uplift. Two other stores achieved similar, but Brighton was slow. However, all have had a good start post-Boxing Day. Indeed the first few days of the sale felt more like Christmas than Christmas itself.

This is the new face of festive retailing. There’s been a fundamental shift in attitude towards buying loved ones presents. A decade ago, if your other half wanted a Simon Carter watch for Christmas, you’d have gone out and bought it, full price. Wrapped it with a bow, and made someone happy.

Now, the conversation is more likely to go, “Let’s wait until the sale.

I’ll buy it for you after Christmas.” This makes for an increasingly unpredictable December. If I have one prediction for 2016, it is that the customer will be continue to set our agenda. Be ready to respond.

Simon Carter CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

Based in the hip and happening Kreuzberg district in Berlin, The Voo Store offers its customers a continuously changing collection comprised of fashion, art, lifestyle goods and gadgets which are sourced internationally.

With a product offering described by creative director Herbert Hormann as “a contemporary and classic style mix, with a basic selection of well-made pieces for everyday life and more exciting styles every so often,” the retailer keeps things moving in-store via new collaborations with brands such as Monokel Eyewear. Customers can access labels including Uniforms for the Dedicated, Surface to Air, Soulland, Wood Wood, Pendleton, Cheap Monday, Grenson and Sandqvist. Aside from an extensive product list and brand mix, the store also hosts exhibitions and concerts, as well as its in-house Companion Coffee Showroom. Since opening in 2010 the concept store has made a name for itself as a hangout and go-to place for viewing new labels, and is ideally positioned away from the commercial shopping area of Berlin.

— PLAN B

RAASHID HOOKS UK Retail Development Manager, Filson

I started out producing hip hop and R&B. It was something that came naturally to me.

— Eventually I started to produce more electro and house records, because that was what I was spinning at the time. I had the honour of working with Frankie Knuckles and ghetto house legend DJ Slugo. Unfortunately, I don’t have the time to DJ out and about anymore, but I still mix at home from time to time. I produced hip hop and R&B EPs and LPs for a slew of artists on Universal Records (circa 2004-2005), but they are relatively unknown because their albums were never released. In the end I became a bit disillusioned with the industry and decided to redirect my efforts elsewhere for a while.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | PEOPLE | 85

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL BEN CRANE FOUNDER, BEE CLOTHING I pretty much wear my own BEE Clothing reversible cycling jacket every day when I cycle in to the studio. It’s light enough to wear in the summer, but it can also be worn in winter over a jumper. It’s waterproof, windproof and oilproof. I haven’t found anything better for what I use it for, but maybe I’m biased.

— Next up would be my Percival red wax mac. I think it’s from the first or second run the guys did of these, so it’s really nicely worn now. The wax has that great shine to it in all the wear and tear areas. It’s a nice bright colour, and it has a fun lining. It’s pretty much a staple for me in winter. I should probably get an updated version, but I’m quite attached to this one.

— In terms of footwear, I’d have to say my YMC/Sperry Cloud Chukka boots in off white. I only got these recently, but I love them. They’re super comfy and can be worn with a smart or casual get-up. Unfortunately they are quite easily ruined, as I found out recently. I might have to get a black pair.

— Another wardrobe favourite is my Soulland shirt. It’s a great fit and a nice twist on a classic white Oxford. It has a watercolour style all-over space themed print, and it goes with everything. Also worth a mention is my Stighlorgan Conn backpack. I’ve used this bag so much since I got it just over a year ago. It’s big enough for me to use for weekends away, and the laptop section in the back comes in very handy. It’s waterproof and really durable.

— I picked up a vintage crabbing jacket at Spitalfields Market about four years ago. It’s an amazing piece, especially for an outerwear designer/enthusiast. It has been a source of inspiration for one of the coats in the new collection. Then there’s my personal BEE signature jacket. I made one for myself in a one-off fabric and it’s become a real personal favourite.

—

TOP TWEETS Empire Cinemas @EmpireCinemas Walking out of the office later like a pro.

Merc @Merc_Clothing That Friday Feeling !

Grey Fox @GreyFoxBlog Trainers? What are trainers?

LØST AT SEÃ @lostatsea_co And suddenly you just know it’s time to start something new & trust the magic of beginnings. #MondayMantra Louis Theroux @louistheroux Yes this is happening: #christmastelly #universitychallenge Nik Speller @NikSpeller Blogging is great. One minute you’re writing about beer, the next your planning a bike ride.

ShortList Magazine @ShortList We’re still loving that Clarkson once demanded helicopter delivery of gravy & cigarettes.

SHOWstudio.com @SHOWstudio Has the North of England been stereotyped in fashion imagery?

British Council @BritishCouncil Fantastic to see the first UK astronaut to head to the @Space_Station - best of luck @astro_timpeake!

—

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN OFFICIALLY OPENED ITS FLAGSHIP STORE ON NEW BOND STREET, MAYFAIR LAST MONTH – FURTHER STRENGTHENING ITS POSITION WITHIN THE PREMIUM MARKET.

p THE LEEDS FASHION INITIATIVE LAUNCHED LAST MONTH WITH A CATWALK SHOW AT THE LEEDS CITY MUSEUM, WITH GUESTS INCLUDING THE RETAIL DIRECTOR OF LEEDS INDIE LAMBERT YARD, ADAM JAGGER.

p THE INTERNATIONAL ONLINE FASHION PLATFORM ‘MASTERED’ IS SET TO LAUNCH ITS FIRST STREETWEAR PROGRAMME IN APRIL 2016. STREETWEAR: MASTERED WILL BE LED AND CURATED BY VIRGIL ABLOH.

MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK JANUARY 2016 | 87

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

TALES OF THE SALES As we rumble on through January and further heavy discounting continues on the high street, it’s a time for reflection on the a/w 15 season, which for many has been a real mixed bag. That said, having talked to quite a few retailers just before Christmas, it seems once again that targets have been hit in the end, despite one of the mildest winters on record (so far) and a continuous bombardment of emails from brands and retailers with special offers, discount codes, flash Sales and so on leading up to the event of Christmas itself.

In fact, pre-Christmas Sales now seem to be the trend, a dangerous one at that. With consumers getting increasingly savvy to it all, many seem prepared to gamble and wait, and wait, until they think they are getting the best possible deal. Last minute dot com is now such a part of the way we shop. Thankfully, bricks and mortar retail is very much alive and well despite the growing surge of online purchasing. The last Saturday before Christmas, 19 December, was widely reported as being a bumper day for instore sales up and down the country. And on the following Monday chaos reigned at Bluewater Shopping Centre in Kent, with a six-hour queue to get out of the giant shopping mall after the advertised ‘mega day’ had seen tills ringing all day long. Further last-minute panic buying was also the order of the day on the 22nd and 23rd.

Traditional Boxing Day Sales have been preceded by pre-Christmas Sales, and not just from the high street big guns like Gap (who seem to be permanently on Sale these days) and big online players like ASOS, whose mass emailed news of its ‘up to 50 per cent winter Sale now on’ was sent out on 21 December. It’s really getting quite cut-throat and even strong indies are playing ball, with Oi Polloi starting its winter Sale on the 21st, and The Chimp Store offering 25 per cent off all full price items – for 24 hours only – on 22 December, then declaring ‘at least 40 per cent off’ on the 23rd.

More stoic was David Johnson of John Douglas in Macclesfield, who told me he’d had his finest ever trading day on Saturday 19 December.

Johnson is also not one for pulling out his Sale signs too early. In fact he says he’s had such strong sell-throughs this season – at full price –

p GIANLUIGI BUFFON & ANTONIO CONTE t MOSCOT STYLES IN SOHO

that he’s simply not got enough stock left to have much of a Sale at all. Coming out of Christmas, he says he’s “reinventing the shop,” with only a couple of small clearance areas. “I’m going again for the autumn/winter season with the colder weather bound to hit in January and February,” he says. He also reckons that he’ll sit on any new spring/summer deliveries until at least the start of March. “I’m not going into a full blown Sale and looking desperate. I’m going to make the shop all look mint again and rise against the high street.”

Fighting talk from the Maccy man – coming out jabbing with some New Year cheer!

MOSCOT ADDS TO SOHO’S NEW RETAIL FLAVOUR New York eyewear brand MOSCOT, founded in 1915 and an old favourite of Johnny Depp’s, opened its first ever European store at 37 Beak Street in London’s Soho in December. Another great signing, and further signs that West is the new East when it comes to cool retail, with Oi Polloi now around the corner on Marshall Street, and a host of more select brands such as A.P.C., Our Legacy and Folk all choosing to add their own unique flavour to the Soho mix in the last

18 months. The new MOSCOT shop offers a complete range of its classic styles, and showcases vintage eyewear from the family’s archives in the shop’s lower level, dubbed ‘Grandma Sylvia’s Living Room.’ It’s unlikely you’ll actually find her down there with her feet up in front of the telly, but it’s worth a look for some new rockin’ shades for summer.

ERMANNO SCERVINO SIGNS UP THE AZZURRI Italian designer Ermanno Scervino has scored a blinder by bagging the gig to dress the Italian football team, known as the Azzurri, debuting at the European Championships in France this summer and continuing until the World Cup in 2018. It’s for all the off the pitch kit, so now the Italians will look as razor sharp away from the field as they always seem to look on it. Legendary Italy goalkeeper, and team captain, Gianluigi ‘Gigi’ Buffon and head coach Antonio Conte were on hand to congratulate Scervino on the new luxury partnership. The Azzurri might not be the assured and feared football nation of old, but when it comes to looking dapper they may just have found the right Ermanno for the job.

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LAST ORDERS WITH...

MARK McCANN Despite being primarily known for its trouser offering, Farah Menswear has developed into one of the strongest brands in the UK market, with a complete lifestyle collection that spans mainstream and contemporary fashion. Victoria Jackson speaks to brand director Mark McCann about his personal taste and what buyers can expect from the label this coming season.

— DOB: 03/04/1972 Lives: UK Twitter: @farahmenswear Instagram: @farahmenswear Website: farah.co.uk

How long have you been working with Farah?

Around nine years, externally first and then internally. Prior to coming on board with the brand I was a partner in sales, marketing and design agency Brand Progression, as well as former menswear tradeshow TBC. Describe a normal working day for you?

Full, busy, demanding, fun – it’s pretty much different every day.

What would you say your biggest achievement at Farah has been during the nine years you’ve worked with the brand?

I’d say together with my team, both past and present, it’s been building Farah back to prominence.

What can buyers expect from the a/w 16 collection?

An offer that continues to grow and evolve from a design and quality perspective. The category which has seen the biggest growth has been our legs offer, with formal, casual and five-pocket (denim and twills) options.

We’re always challenging ourselves to continue to offer contemporary British original style.

We’re also launching Farah Tailoring for the

new season. This is a really exciting time for Farah.

We continue to push boundaries and satisfy our consumers’ demands. This is just one of the new developments coming next year.

Which labels, apart from the obvious, would we find in your wardrobe?

Uniqlo, Edwin and Trickers.

What kind of shopper are you?

I hate shopping with a passion, so I’ll do it as little as I can.

In regards to your wardrobe, what’s the biggest purchase you’ve made?

It would have to be on outerwear and luggage; I don’t recall prices but too much to mention.

What do you do to escape from work?

Go home to my wife and children: they keep me grounded, happy and relaxed regardless of the highs and lows of my working life.

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS — Early bird or night owl? Depends — Favourite holiday destination?

Barbados — The film that made the most impact on you? Top Gun — What would you tell your 16-year-old self? No — Biggest vice? Chocolate and Gin —

WHOLESALE ENQUIRIES: RHENRY@WOLSEY.COM

ONLINE STORE: WOLSEY.COM