the mini: horizons
MODA
the mini: horizons MAY 2015 CHLOE KARASKIEWICZ Editor-in-Chief
Deputy Editor Caroline Kreul Art Director Jesse Tovar Photography Director Roberto Leon Arts Editor Bronte Mansfield Fashion Editor Paige Schultz Lifestyle Editor Jennifer Anderson Social Editor Barbara Gonzalez Men’s Editor Andrew Connor Fashion Assistant Marissa Monett Art Assistant Alexandra Folino Lifestyle Assistant Allie Jeka Contributing Writers Maya Campbell, Kaitlin Dunn, Nikki Francois, Darby Hoffman, Jake Hollister, Dan Kershner, Emma Leuman, Phebe Myers, Anna Olla, Taylor Palmby, Meg Rotter, Lanni Solocheck Xinyi Wang & Jameson Zaballos Contributing Photographers Katie Cooney, Alexandra Folino, Claire Ogunsola, Meg Rotter, Andrew Salewski & Leyan Xu Models Renee Nebo & Anna Thomas
On the Cover Top, Skirt, & Shoes, American Apparel Sunglasses, American Eagle 2 | May 2015
letter from the editor
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he final farewell is the hardest goodbye.
I never believed what I heard about college years flying by. Of course, days melted away in the routine of classes and weekends with friends, and as quickly as football season started, so it was also over. But the reality that four years of my life could flash by faster than you could say “On Wisconsin!” seemed never to actually dawn on me. On the precipice of all this change, it’s natural to crave the security of our fond memories. We created a home here, we grew a family of friends here, we shaped ourselves here. For many of us at Moda, this is the last issue we will produce. This Mini Issue is more than a month’s worth of articles—for me, it is four years and the promise of a future I thought was much more distant. It is easy to idealize in our nostalgia. My experience at the University has been a phenomenal one, but it is important to remember there remain pervasive problems here. Too many students are victims of sexual assault and violence, too many students feel alone, too many suffer from mental health crises. Far too many more are ill–represented
on this campus, but work tirelessly to not only be visible themselves, but so that maybe the next generation of Badgers will feel and be better supported, accepted, and valued. But in the face of this progress we undeniably need to make, we have hope. Hope because we can see how capable we, individually, are of change. After perhaps our first foray into adulthood and independence, we are transformed during our collegiate years. We have hope because, in these years, we are learning the strategies with which to combat the looming problems in both our own lives and our collective future. It has been in our time here that we become agents of change, for it is we who must enact the future we crave. For ourselves, for each other, and in the name of our alma mater.
Chloe May 2015 | 3
THE GO-TOS:
Moda staffers share their favorite closet staples that up any outfit’s game.
By Maya Campbell, photographed by Alexandra Folino
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e all have days where we push the snooze button five times too many, rummage through all sartorial options and still manage to whisper, “I have nothing to wear.” Sometimes it seems like no matter what we pair or how many must-haves we buy, nothing comes together to make us feel like the accomplished, stylish and forward-thinking students we are. On these days, we turn to our most faithful pieces: those that seemingly pledged an eternal promise to fit right, function in multiple ways and brighten our mood— all at the same time. As the semester comes to a close, we‘re paying homage to the items that rescued us when we were frustrated and sitting in a heap of clothes. Here’s to the priceless piece of clothing that has become the very cornerstone of
ANNA OLLA These sandal booties are my go-to shoes in the summer. They are super comfortable, give me a little height, and are very versatile. I can wear them with a skirt, dress, or jeans. They are perfect for class or for an outing on the weekend. The neutral color allows me to pair these shoes with solids or prints and the cut-outs add a little flair.
EMMA LEUMAN My army green shirt is my go-to piece because of its texture and its silhouette. It’s a piece that always looks put together, but effortless—something I value very much in style. The softness of the material puts this piece over the top, making this shirt one of my all-time favorites. 4 | May 2015
KELSEY SIMONSON My flannel is my go-to piece in my closet because it completes any outfit. If I don’t know what to wear that day, it is easy to throw my flannel over a top or tie it around my waist and look like I put effort into my outfit. It is a men’s flannel top, which means the silhouette is a bit oversized and perfect for my day-to-day casual style.
KELSEY KNEPLER I love to throw on a blazer over just about anything from graphic tees to formal button ups. It can instantly make my outfit more polished and professional. When I am wearing a blazer, nothing can get in my way!
JAMESON ZABALLOS I saw this sweater in a Ralph Lauren catalogue and was instantly struck by how beautiful the design was. I had seen a lot of Fair Isle sweaters that had gone for a bold, noisy design but were just ugly. Each pattern in this sweater is not only beautiful, but also combines flawlessly with the other patterns. There is not one pattern that takes the spotlight. I received it for Christmas from my mother and there wasn’t a single week in winter when I didn’t wear it. It is a piece that I can layer and I am always confident that it will blend and match with anything. Plus, I just love to look at it. May 2015 | 5
KARINA DEBOURNE My sister brought this scarf back for me from Italy and so it has sentimental value. It’s my favorite one to wear with nearly any outfit because it immediately brightens both my look and my mood!
MARGARET DUFFEY This patched denim jacket has been one of my wardrobe staples since I purchased it at a thrift store three years ago. Without this jacket, I would be sporting an excessive amount of monochromatic outfits in my busy, daily life. The mismatched patches quickly transform any outfit into a unique one ready to take on whatever the day holds.
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TAYLOR PALMBY My leather jacket is my confidence piece. When I put it on, I feel like the night is automatically going to be so much better. It’s also filled with so many great memories and since I bought it while I was in China, it reminds me of the trip of a lifetime with my favorite people.
MARISSA MONETT Something about the fit of this black leather jacket makes me feel like I can conquer whatever life throws at me. It hits at just the right spot on my hips, and whether I throw a dress, jeans or joggers on, it somehow always flatters my shape. I’m also a black, white, leather, denim kind of girl, so it fits nicely into my comfort zone.
MAYA CAMPBELL I was never a fan of wearing sweatpants out of the house until I was introduced to these Adidas pants. Their streamlined structure and monochrome color scheme make them incredibly easy to style. I can dress them up with a blazer and a silk top or go for extra comfort in a knitted sweater. They are my go-tos for the days I just roll out of bed but don’t want that to be reflected in my outfit.
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GROWN up FIX UP Simple Apartment Fixes for Every New “Grown-Up” By: Jake Hollister, Contributing Writer
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ne of the first lessons we learned in college was that maintaining an inviting, uncluttered living space is extremely difficult. Fitting too many things into a small apartment or dorm room inevitably leads to a mess. Coming home to a small, messy, dark room is the worst part of the day—but college life doesn’t need to be this way. These simple, cheap, and easy fixes can transform a disaster apartment into an open, relaxing Zen-den that everyone can enjoy.
Arrangement One of the most necessary and liberating improvements is simply freeing up space. An easy (and free) fix to this is just rearranging. Pull furniture, like couches and chairs, away from the walls. Doing this gives the illusion that the room is more spacious than it seems. Another pro tip is to simplify the room’s decor. Having too many small decorations around draws the eyes to these spots and can appear cluttered. So, for an easy fix for decor, use the “cantaloupe rule:” choose only objects that are larger than a cantaloupe. Fewer and bigger decorations will significantly open up a room. If this change leaves you with a ton of excess things, store them in shelving that is taller than it is wide. This will visually heighten the look of the room, drawing the eyes up and creating a look of comfort.
Visual Aesthetics No one likes a room without a little personality, and vacant walls are the easiest way to kill the vibe of a room. College students and recent graduates usually
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don’t possess the ability to change the color of their walls, so what do you do? Framed artwork, albums, or posters provide a quick, even more personalized fix than a can of paint. The key word here is framed. Bare posters, art, and such are too much of a dorm habit. Frames add a touch of elegance and personality to what’s on the wall. Mirror interests and pick something you won’t mind staring at endlessly.
Lighting Related to visual aesthetics, not only can adding good lighting contribute to the visual spectacle of the room, but it also can give the room a cozy/homey feel. Preinstalled florescent lights are to be avoided at all costs. Flip those off, and never touch that switch again. Harsh, overhead lighting pools all of the light in one place. Use lamps and candles instead. This adds soft light, while drawing the eyes to various spots in the room making it immediately inviting. Sit back and enjoy the chill vibes.
AROMA Especially with the male apartment dwellers, combatting less than pleasant odors can prove to be difficult. Aromas can be touchy. The best aromas are subtle yet mask unpleasant odors; overbearing scents make a room nearly unbearable. Depending on personal preference, one of the best methods to achieve a welcoming scent is to light candles in the room. They not only add a subtle scent, but they also add the aforementioned soft light. If relaxation is the goal, lavender and rose scents will do the trick. If candles aren’t your vibe or open flames alarm you, there’s a whole world of incenses, potpourris and oils that can create similar olfactory effects.
VEGETATION One of the best ways to add life to an apartment is by adding plants. Not only do plants bring nature into an apartment, they also filter out unpleasant odors as well as purify the air of stuffiness. However, most students or graduates do not have the luxury of large windows or the time to care for a plant. Some low-light and low-maintenance plants include: snake plants, bamboo or red-edged dracaenas. These plants will still thrive despite neglect and will add a pop of color to an otherwise bland room. Pro tip: the Peace Lily is one of the few low-maintenance plants that still flowers. Credits: Lamp: Schoolhouse Electric Framed Photos: Time Inc. Candle: Frank & Oak Peace Lily: Ikea
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Looking to the Present:
Why Live in the Now? By Darby Hoffman Photo by Andrew Salewski
Don’t get hung up in your future. Plan for the here and now.
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ay after day, we spend our lives counting down time, wishing away moments until something in our future will become something in our present. With only a few days left of the school year, this unfortunate habit becomes even more apparent. Whether we are looking forward to summer vacation, graduation, a new job or the next step in a relationship, the future always seems to take precedence over the here and now. Little do we realize that with our hopeful minds comes an extensive loss of what could be our current opportunity. Have you ever considered the things you could be accomplishing if you took the same time that goes towards sitting around and used it for productive measures instead? Remaining conscious and taking proactive measures to enjoy the life you’re currently living can not only improve your present, but also make your future seem not as far away. But first, what could possibly be so detrimental about focusing solely on the future? It prepares us, and en10 | May 2015
sures that we have a plan together for when the proper time comes, right? Well, partially. Many of us know all too well the bittersweet feeling of nostalgia when looking back on our pasts, or the anxiety-inducing rumination that comes along with the “what ifs” of our future. By keeping your head in the clouds and not paying enough attention to your current opportunities, you lose the potential for great experiences. By pressing yourself to remain aware of and savoring your present activities, you eliminate feelings of worry, and are able to remain more content with your current position in life. Additionally, people who are mindful of their present have been scientifically proven to be “happier, more exuberant, more empathetic, and more secure,” says Psychology Today. This mindfulness can also result in higher self-esteem and “more [acceptance] of [one’s] own weaknesses.” Beyond increasing the positive aspects of one’s life, living in the moment can reduce negative factors such as “the kinds of impulsivity and reactivity that underlie depression, binge eating, and attention problems.” Another question you may ask is why short-term goals are any more beneficial than the long-term. Although long-term goals are a necessary part of planning a successful and worthwhile life, the extended time
Imagine what your past-self had dreamed of accomplishing in the next year. Have you successfully met these goals and fulfilled these aspirations? frame of far-off plans can make it difficult to focus. Although they may serve as a sort of road map for your life, they are not definite enough to provide concrete objectives. Additionally, being too set in your ways can lead to a disappointing outcome for your future. The unpredictable nature of the future will undoubtedly result in a range of surprises and unanticipated changes. Instead, make an attempt to carry out short-term, immediate tasks that may contribute to your overarching ambition. In the article, “The Art of Now: Six Steps to Living in the Moment,”science writer Jay Dixit explains a concept dubbed “flow” within the psychological community. He argues that once you have provided yourself with clearly defined goals that grant a quick turnaround for feedback, you are more able to completely lose track of time and further enjoy the moment you are in. Being able to see more successes in a shorter amount of time will allow you to appreciate the tasks you are accomplishing now, while also promoting the extreme level of interest that allows the time to pass by quickly.
past self wanted for me. Whether it is subconscious or physical, making a list of these objectives for yourself provides obtainable goals to work towards in your daily life. Although the transition may seem daunting, letting thoughts of the future take the backseat for a bit allows you the amazing opportunity to accomplish the tasks you would have otherwise completely neglected. Try out that new trendy, Pinterest-inspired hobby. Take a risk and do something that scares you. Allow yourself to let go of your inhibitions and create a story that your future self would be proud to tell. The beautiful thing about the future is that there’s always more of it. The present is fleeting, and quickly becomes a past memory. Wasted time is a choice, and enjoying your here and now is the first step to eliminating it. Source: https://www.psychologytoday.com/articles/200810/theart-now-six-steps-living-in-the-moment
One extremely effective method for making the most of your current days is, ironically, to revisit your past. Imagine what your past-self had dreamed of accomplishing in the next year. Have you successfully met these goals and fulfilled these aspirations? By putting yourself in an old pair of shoes, it may be easier to recognize exactly what goals and milestones you wanted for yourself. Personally, when I’m feeling lethargic or unproductive, I will give myself a moment to reflect, and then write down each of the unfinished tasks that my May 2015 | 11
ODE TO MADISON By Phebe Myers Photo by Roberto Leon
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f you ever find yourself in the charming town of Lawrence, Kansas, do yourself a favor and drive up Tennessee street. On the corner of the 22nd block lies an old house, it’s brick- a deep red brick, and covered in a tangle of ivy. The roof has a small turret and is punctuated by the peak of a rarely cleaned chimney. The lawn isn’t much to speak of, but blooms bright with fuchsia peonies in the third week of every May. There’s a small pond complete filled with lily pads and tadpoles, as well as a decrepit playhouse that’s been falling apart since 2005 when a group of 12 year old boys ruined it. For most of my life, this was home. Since I have left the comfort of those brick walls, where the cracks in foundation were in desperate need of repair, I haven’t been able to picture home the same way. I arrived on this campus, 526 miles away, a pitiful heap of a freshman. While most freshman were off partying their way through welcome week, I cried every day. My parents had also moved from our gnome-like-cottage, 1,356 miles away to Wethersfield, Connecticut and I felt pathetically alone. A large campus can foster isolation, but UW Madison doesn’t let you feel lonely for long. Sure, I can tell you stories about the amazing people I met here, and the incredible classes with world class professors I have had the privilege to take here. But this is more of a love letter to the home I found in myself, and the person this university guided me to become. 12 | May 2015
As I sit here, less than 20 days from graduating from this institution and try to reflect on my experience here, I think a lot about home. I came to this place friendless and alone, and I leave it four years later with experiences and memories that I will cherish for a lifetime. I did all the things you’re supposed to do as a college student here: live in Sellery- check, study abroadcheck, go to (occasional) sporting events- check. But Madison didn’t become home to me through those clichéd experiences, it became home because this is where I grew up. I grew up from a person who felt trivial and powerless, accepting shallow love and feeling inadequate, to a strong woman who lives without fear. Madison forced me to learn big lessons, like how to love myself when it feels like no-one else does, and what it means to have white privilege in a place that struggles to comprehend the experiences of people of color. It taught me small lessons like how to buy groceries for a party of one and how to use a can opener (still working on that). Madison taught me who I am right now, a person of worth and value. I can’t tell you who I am going to become in the future, or what I am going to do with my life (no, sadly college did not answer that question for me), but I can tell you that I have found a home, a home that I made all on my own. Now, home to me is no longer described best by one specific place, or building, but by the feeling of self-love and independence that can only be known when you find yourself. On Wisconsin.
A Journey to Self-Discovery:
establishing your four year plan By: Taylor Palmby
When we think about college, we often think about what we are going to do with the rest of our lives. It might be better to think about who we want to be in the next four years.
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hen I was in seventh grade, I read an article about self-discovery that really struck me. It struck me so much that I wrote “Who Am I? on my bathroom mirror with my favorite maroon lipstick. To this day, those words are still painted across my mirror as a reminder to make a conscious effort to recognize not only who I am, but who I want to be. During my first year of college, I spent a lot of time looking ahead to my future. Everyday, whether it’s picking classes, building my résumé, or even talking to loved ones about taking my next steps, my future has become an inexplicable part of my present. I know that who I am now is very different from the person I was four years ago. I changed without even really noticing. I know the kind of person I want to be when I step into the real world four years from now, but I never really think about how I’m going to get there or how the person I want to be differs from who I am now. The first step for making your four year plan is to take a moment and think about the specific traits you want to have and life goals that you want to accomplish. By the time I leave the wonderful word of college, I want to know who I am as a person and be proud of that person. Becoming someone you can be proud of has to start with recognizing the weaknesses you have now. Recognizing your weaknesses does not mean that they have to define who you are, though. It’s important to realize that among a few weaknesses, you have a many more strengths. Our weaknesses make us human. Although we often can’t change them, we can embrace them and improve any negative affect they may have on our lives and the lives of those around us. Admitting our flaws can be tough, but learning who you are is an important journey that is filled with a multitude of bumps and setbacks, but is also
the first step to loving, learning, and ultimately accepting who we are. We often spend all of our time focusing our college lives on what we want to do when we step into the real world. But if we don’t know who we are, how can we possibly decide what we want to do for the rest of our lives? The years spent in college shouldn’t just be about your major, GPA, or completing a checklist of accomplishments. College is about becoming a person that has something to offer the world. Education is an important part of this, but when you apply for a job after college, your major and GPA only take up a couple of lines on your résumé. The majority of what the employer looks at are your interests, your experiences, your presentation of who you are--in person and on paper. As I finish my freshman year of college, I have high hopes for the person I will be on that fateful day I walk across the stage, diploma case in hand. I want to be someone who spreads kindness and love everywhere I go. I want to be confident in myself and where I’m headed. I want to only speak positive words. I want the vibes I send into the universe to be stellar. Discovering who you are is a journey that you can start today in a myriad of different ways. Journal to document your life as it is now, your thoughts about the world around you, and all of the things you want to experience. These thoughts and goals can help you notice common themes within yourself and ultimately who you are. Use your next years in college to experiment with different groups and clubs and really find your niche. Learn to enjoy your own company and make an effort to spend time with yourself. One way to visualize what you have accomplished is to make a time capsule of moments and memories so you can look back and compare the person you were then, four years from now. Before you leave this place and enter the world where you don’t have to wear shower shoes, can’t binge watch Netflix as often, and don’t have the option of skipping your 8:50 a.m. class, take the time to figure out who you are and who you want to be.
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JACK OF ALL TRADES
By Nikki Francois Photographed by Claire Ogunsola, courtesy of Danielle Bruflodt
Madison local, Danielle Bruflodt, is the true triple threat with a successful lifestyle blog, a social media management company and her own Esty Shop.
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n her blog, Danielle Bruflodt describes herself as a “creative thinker living in Madison, Wisconsin.” This is the perfect depiction because she is quintessentially the jack of all things creative. Bruflodt is a Madison local who balances her time running quite a few online media entities. Not only does she run her own charming lifestyle blog, she owns a social media management company and an Esty shop. What’s incredible is that she taught herself most of the skills needed to become a creative thinker. Bruflodt, who graduated from Luther College in 2008, started working as a makeup artist at Bare Escentuals after a brief time studying for her master’s degree. At the time, she thought the experience was a waste of her time. However, it eventually helped her learn more about beauty products, knowledge that she would later work with on a daily basis. She was then hired to do social media at a publishing company in Minneapolis and also contributed to Mpls.
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St. Paul Magazine, writing about her experience planning for her wedding.
which make them easy to pin on Pinterest for her followers.
After living in Minneapolis, Bruflodt relocated to Madison with her husband, where she continued to work for the publishing company remotely. Her freedom allowed her to learn more about photography, social media management and graphic design on her own. Bruflodt used resources such as YouTube tutorials to become more proficient in these skills, which she recommends to anyone who is patient and eager to learn.
But Thyme is Honey is not just another lifestyle blog on the market. It’s a hub for her social media planning and content creation business as well as for her Etsy shop. In 2012, she took her various creative skills and built her social media management, also under the brand Thyme is Honey.
During this time, Bruflodt began thinking about creating a blog and an online presence because she wanted another creative outlet. And a camping trip provided the perfect catalytic experience. In the middle of a state park, Bruflodt’s camp was rained on and covered with wood ticks. “We found over 40 wood ticks on four of us. I thought, ‘If I’m going to start a blog, I’m going to start it now and write about this crazy camping experience,” Bruflodt said. Today, Bruflodt posts everything from fashion to food to beauty on her blog, Thyme is Honey, which, in 2014, reached over one million hits for the year. Thyme is Honey is, without question, a beautifullydesigned blog. Bruflodt works hard to create a seamless flow and cohesive design from one post to another, incorporating a dark yellow accent color, as well as a fun font. Her adorable logo, featuring a yellow honeycomb, is a perfect mix of sweet and simple, a visual representation of her blog. What’s amazing about Bruflodt’s blog is that she spends hours creating written as well as impressive visual work. Want a recipe for a margarita? Check out the ten recipes that she created along with an infographic that includes the photographs she took for her post of each margarita. Interested in what she recommends to read this spring? She has another infographic on featured books and their descriptions. Her posts are memorable and focused on graphics,
Clients hire Bruflodt for social media management and her expertise in content creation for social media, such as handmade art, photography and graphic design. After Bruflodt got her business license, she took on more clients, ranging from an organic skin care line to a plant nursery. “I took [the nursery] on to kind of challenge myself, she says. “I can always throw in another beauty brand or skin care company or beauty blogger because it comes really naturally [to me],” Bruflodt said. Thyme is Honey is a spinoff of “time is money,” which basically represents Bruflodt’s love for organization and time management, not to mention how she handles balancing three different entities of her company at once. Across every aspect of her brand and her life, Bruflodt emphasizes the importance of time management and organizational skills on a day-today basis. She also believes that in order to be a truly creative thinker, she should take on new projects to obtain new skills. And somehow, she flawlessly achieves both goals. “That’s the benefit of working for yourself,” Bruflodt said.” No one is telling you what you have to do [on any given] day.” For more information on Danielle Bruflodt and her various talents, check out her site, thyme-is-honey. com.
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hello,
Staying focused is hard with summer on the brain. Break out your summer wardrobe a couple weeks early to conquer your finals in style! STYLED BY ALEXA CARLSON, KAYLA COOKE, KELSEY DAYKIN AND KALLAN SWANSON RENEE NEBO AND ANNA THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHED BY KATIE COONEY CREATIVE DIRECTOR MEKEA LARSON
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sunshine! Bodysuit American Apparel
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Top, Skirt, & Shoes: American Apparel Sunglasses: American Eagle
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Top & Skirt: American Apparel Shoes: May 2015 | 19 Zara
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(On left) Bodysuit, Shorts, & Shoes: American Apparel (On right) Top, Shorts, & Shoes: American Apparel
OLD MAN STEEZ
Moda’s Men’s writers discuss their old-school style idols Han Kjobenhavn courtsey of Fourpins
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hey say that with age comes wisdom. The adage refers to life advice and the like, but we don’t see why it can’t apply sartorially, as well. There are more than a handful of older gents out there who prove that even though you may not be as spry and youthful as you once were, you can still school any youthful punk’s ass in the style arena. We admire these men and can only hope to emulate their impeccable style in the future. This man is about as old as his style is lit. When I reach the same level of #ripeness in steez and age, I want to be a brand ambassador of a dope Danish designer just like him. To hell with ageist practices say the people at Han Kjobenhavn, “Lets just pluck the most handsome retired hit-man we can find off the streets of Copenhagen, he’ll absolutely body this job.” It’s hard to argue with their logic. I don’t care how peaceful, friendly or conveniently good at speaking English the Danes are; they’ve produced an absolute Ghost-haired killer in their ranks here. He’s like Willem Defoe’s thug from The Grand Budapest Hotel, except with an extra twenty-five years of shooting first and asking questions later to hone his personal brand. – Dan Kershner Getting old isn’t going to change my personal style so much as it’s going to change how people view what my style looks like. It’s not enough to be that quirky old gentleman who wears interesting sunglasses; my outfits are going to be waaaaaay out there and a little bit of a reflection of everything I’ve experienced. I see a guy like Nick Wooster and see a man who has a style all his own. My style will turn some heads, or it won’t; I couldn’t care less, I’ll be happy being myself. –Jameson Zaballos Nick Wooster courtsey of Lifo
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Alessandro Manfredini via Instagram
As I observe how style evolves with age, it seems like, for a lot of people, the desire to dress well slowly diminishes. As I age, I aim to do the opposite. As my features and body decay, my style and clothing choices will be the only way I can continue to overtly express myself. My style will mirror those who have influenced me, as well as who I am as a person. Following my roots of urban and classic Americana style, my steez will purport elements of my edgy personality with a touch of class – just enough to mirror my wisdom in conjunction with my flare. –Jake Hollister
Harvey Keitel for Prada
For decades, Harvey Keitel has been doing his level headed badass shtick with a wardrobe to match. Evidence that with age his style hasn’t faded, Prada sought out the veteran actor for their “Leading Man” ad campaign in 2013. With silver, slicked-back hair, and a cold-ass stare, Keitel proves age and edge are not mutually exclusive. Hipsters who dwell in his native Brooklyn can only dream of matching this man’s old school cool. Frankly, I might as well be one of them. –Andrew Connor 22 | May 2015
WHAT’S UNDER YOUR GOWN? Inspiration for your Graduation Day ensemble By Anna Olla
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t’s May, which means one thing to seniors: graduation. Whether you’re heading off into the “real world,” going to grad school or taking another path, it’s time to make one last statement as an undergrad. Caps and gowns aren’t the most fashion- forward pieces, but what you wear under them can be. Gone are the days of boring dresses. From jumpsuits to two-pieces, there are finally more options. However, if you want to be traditional, a delicate shift dress is your best bet. A bright spring color, like yellow, provides the perfect pop under your black gown. If you decide to go with a vibrant dress, keep your accessories neutral. A beige wedge is the perfect choice. A jumpsuit is another option: classic with a modern edge. This polished jumpsuit from Nasty Gal pays homage to Marilyn Monroe’s iconic white halter dress.
To keep with the simple look, stick with a pair of drop earrings and elegant, strappy heels to elongate your silhouette. If you want to take a chance, a two-piece dress is just for you. This ensemble from Topshop adds a daring print to a new style of dress. Because the pattern is so vibrant, again, keep your accessories minimal. A neutral pump is chic, sophisticated and won’t take away from the fun. Sohere’s one last assignment you are sure to ace. Before you receive that diploma, make sure to look fabulous when you throw up your cap and strut your stuff to “Pomp and Circumstance.” Whether you choose a simple shift dress, a classic jumpsuit or a trendy two-piece set, you are sure to do no wrong.
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THIS IS
SLAC UW-Madison via Twitter
what social activisM Looks like By Maya Campbell
T
ime and time again we come across the phrase “wear your heart on your sleeve.” This idiom speaks to fearlessly identifying and expressing your emotions with others, and with the recent rise of contemporary social movements, passionate people are taking the saying to a literal level. Much rhetoric surrounding social movements and what they look like takes the form of political stances. Reflecting on the #BlackLivesMatter movement, discussion surrounds a debate on reformation of our current police force or completely revolutionizing the way in which society understands policing. Additionally, when we turn our attention to the voices behind gay rights movements, there is an active disagreement between whether same-sex couples should advocate for the right to marry or if we as a society should reconsider the institution of marriage and perhaps do away with it. Whether the current focus is on #BlackLivesMatter or gay rights, we expect to see some form of support. Individual support of social movements takes on a plethora of forms, from advocating in street protests to funding academic research. But wearing support “on your sleeve” has seemed to gain power in its own 24 | May 2015
mini movement. The idea of donning support for your cause presents a vastly different understanding to the question, “What does a social movement look like?” Through a different interpretation, fashion proves itself to be a viable form of political communication and not just a frivolous hobby, as many people are lead to believe. As people understand and navigate spaces of social activism differently, they also wear their causes in a variety of ways. Perhaps the most familiar display is the button. Thinking of your favorite button-fanatic, understand these pinned expressions were one of the earliest forms of wearable declarations of allegiance. From a logistical standpoint, the “Activist,” “Vegan” or “Question Authority” statements spread the message with ease and little money. Stickers are in a similar class. Beyond this, alignment with social movements through clothing is done by printing symbols or phrases on (but not limited to) t-shirts, sweatshirts and book bags. Just a few years ago, the American Apparel “Legalize Gay” tees and tanks were extremely popular. The brand sold thousands of the shirts, which were worn by people who identify as gay, many allies to the cause and well-know celebrities like Russell Brand and Macklemore.
Activist apparel or outfits that don’t use words to make an argument, but instead make a statement through symbolic nature, are also essential to understanding fashion as political. For example, the 1960s and 70s Black is Beautiful movement fought to redefine the definition of beauty to include African-Americans. It emphasized black hair as valuable, despite Eurocentric standards of beauty, and encouraged many to love the pigment of their skin and African roots. This was embodied through styling hair in Afros and wearing dashikis in an exhibition of pride. For gender non-conforming communities, social activism is often shown through resistance to clothing that ascribes gender or conflates gender and sex. The fact that dresses and frills are commonly assigned as women’s clothing presents a large issue for individuals born male, female, or intersex but don’t want to specifically gender their bodies through clothing. Many LGBT fashion shows and individuals that reject the conflation of gender and sex use fashion to disrupt hegemonic ideas of how clothing and gender should function. Fashion, in these cases, is a tool used to support social movement through the promotion or disruption of ideas. Garments displaying key phrases or symbolism have the power to condense the crux of a movement’s goal or argument into a visible form. Utilization of social activist clothing and wearable symbols can show solidarity with a cause and if these fashion choices are everyday expressions, they can be catalysts for critical thinking. Clothing has always been essential in social movements, but by expanding the lens through which we think about the form of social activism, we can take a closer and more productive look at how we embody social movement, make arguments without our literal voices, and engage in and with politics though our fashion choices.
(top) Buzzfeed (bottom) Zimbio
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Making Waves Re-invent crimped hair with these easy beauty tutorials Written and photographed by Meg Rotter
F
rizzy perms, teased hair and side ponytails were all the rage during the ‘80s. Big, bold hair was plastered on magazine covers and featured in every popular music video. Revisiting that wild time in hair’s history brings an especially fun and unique trend back into view: crimping. The crinkled locks of all your favorite ‘80s icons are making their return today. Check out these three easy ways to get an edgy, crimped look:
3-Prong iron Crimp: 1. Begin with straight, dry hair that is parted as normal. Also referred to as a waving iron, this tool will help you create mermaid-like waves. 2. Take the top layer of your hair and pin it up so that it is out of the way. Once your crimper is heated up, begin by taking a small section of your hair and clamping it near your roots. 3. Repeat this process, clamping the iron lower and lower until the entire section is crimped. Continue the crimping process until all the hair is crimped and repeat for the top layer of your hair. 4. Spray your new look with hairspray, using more depending on the thickness of your hair. For a more natural look, run your fingers through the crimped hair to loosen up the waves.
Flat iron waves: 1. Similar to the 3-prong iron method, begin with dry, straight hair. This technique will help you achieve more of a beachy wave than a crimp. 2. Beginning at the base of your hair, take your heated flat iron and clamp a small section of your hair. Twist the flat iron 180° while holding the ends of your hair straight. 3. Hold this position for seven seconds before moving lower down the section of hair. As you move lower, flip the flat iron so that it is facing the opposite direction, thus creating a crimp-like wave.
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4.Once you have repeated this process through all of your hair, spritz with hairspray and enjoy your new look.
Braided Crimp: 1. For this look, begin with slightly damp hair. Begin by braiding all of your hair into small sections and fastening them with rubber bands. With this method, the thickness of your braids will affect how crimped your hair is. The smaller the braid, the tighter the crimp. 2. Once all sections of your hair are braided, wait for it to dry. If you are in a rush, blow drying is an effective way to cut down on time and will not affect the outcome of the crimp. 3. Next, take your flat iron and slowly move down your braid, loosely clamping the tool as you go. Once you’ve flat ironed all the braids, spritz them with hairspray. 4. If you prefer a tighter crimp, repeat the previous step. After your braids have cooled to room temperature, remove the rubber bands and unbraid your hair.
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WHISPERGATE: The Met Gala Fumble
H
ome to some of humankind’s most valuable contributions to art, the Metropolitan Museum of Art is one of the most important cultural institutions in the world. Each year, the Met hosts its famous gala: an event celebrated by the artistic and the fashionable alike,where couture-clad celebrities walk the red carpet and viewers dissect their looks, ranking them as “best dressed” or lauding design-
The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s orginal 2015 Costume Institute theme and why it should not be ignored. By Kaitlin Dunn, Arts Writer
ers’ use of the gala’s theme. The themes are varied and focus on designers, styles, and other aspects within fashion. This year’s theme was released in September 2014 as “Chinese Whispers: Tales of the East in Art, Film and Fashion.” Amid a storm of controversy, it was quickly changed to “China: Through the Looking Glass.” What did The Met do that was so wrong? What caused the tsunami of negative reactions, which then forced the title change? One might say, “it’s about Chinese fashion, there’s diversity, isn’t that a good thing?” The answer is yes, but not when the attempt at inclusion and diversity is presented with a racist and problematic title. The Internet quickly got a hold of this story, revealing the inappropriate and racist associations of the title. “Chinese Whispers” is one of the names for Telephone–that game you played at recess in elementary school, where you said something in the ear of one friend, and then passed it around in a circle until it got back to you, completely changed–and was originally used to imply that the Chinese language is confusing and hard to understand. The brow-raising blunder only escalated when popular feminist news site Jezebel found a Women’s Wear Daily interview with Costume Institute Curator Andrew Bolton about the planning of the exhibition. Bolton explains: “[t]he basic idea is the influence of Chinese aesthetics on designers, but I also wanted to convey how costumes and decorative arts crystallize centuries of cultural interchanges between the East and the West.” This is relatively innocuous as cultures have exchanged ideas and influence throughout the centuries. However, what Bolton said next is less acceptable. He went on to explain that the aesthetics of the garments, “are infused with fantasy and nostalgia and romance, and what is often created is a virtual China, a mixing of these anachronistic styles, which results in this pastiche. What is interesting is how complicit China has been in forming those fantasies.” Cultures are not willfully and happily complicit in the plundering of their cultural heritage for the profit of Westerners, and Bolton’s words get to the heart of the problem with the Met’s title: mistaking cultural looting for cross-cultural collaboration. Bolton’s comments and the title
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of the Met’s exhibition distract attention from the beauty and importance of the exhibition itself, and its goal of celebrating and showcasing the importance of Chinese culture and its influence over the rest of the world. To say The Met’s Costume Institute is only interested in China as an exotic idea or as a subordinate within a paradigm of cultural elitism is not entirely fair. The Met is one of the largest and finest art institutions in the world, and with that status comes an equally high responsibility and standard of excellence to uphold. China has been a source of visual inspiration; it is fine to celebrate, but do it well. Showcasing Chinese designers and the results of inspiration sourced from China that are culturally sensitive is great. Appointing diverse co-chairs for the event, including Gong Li and Wendi Murdoch, is fantastic. But do not ruin those efforts by using an ill-conceived title, lest celebrities like Katy Perry show up to the event with chopsticks in their hair.
Image 1: Festival Robe, 19th century, Qing dynasty, China, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photo by Platon Image 2: “In the Mood for Love,” 2000, film still courtesy of Block 2 Pictures Inc. Image 3: 19th-centuy rubbing from 10th-century stele, Photo courtesy of Special Collections, Fine Arts Library, Harvard University
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SHADES FOR YOUR SHAPE With bright lake views already in sight, it’s time for your best shades to meet the sun. By Xinyi Wang Styled by Marissa Monett and Paige Schultz Photography and Art by Leyan Xu
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There is no doubt sunglasses are a quintessential accessory of our summer days, but finding the right pair isn’t always easy. There are endless styles to choose from, but knowing what actually looks good on you proves more difficult than it sounds. Whether you rushed your last purchase in a time of need or your sunnies just don’t match your style anymore, we’ve got the best trends for your face shape, courtesy of SEE Eyewear.
With defined jaw lines and cheekbones that run parallel to the width of their foreheads, those with square faces do best with either round or aviator shaped glasses. A pair of oversized, round clubmasters will help soften your angles and play on a few of summer’s most popular trends. If the trendy look isn’t for you, try a spin on aviators with silver mirrored lenses. A slightly squarer pair will also help define your cheeks as the rim runs parallel to the bone.
SQUARE
Faces that are considered more circular tend to have “centered” features. To balance the fullness of the face, find angles through either cat eyes or wayfarers. Both the wider angle at the nose and the top-heavy frames of cat-eyed sunnies create the illusion of a triangular face. Wayfarers act in a similar fashion, with angular top corners that lead down to a more narrow shape. To stand out in these popular shapes, try a tortoise frame or futuristic reflectors.
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To accent the features of a narrow, oval face, try shades closer to a rectangle than a circle. Opting for more angled lenses will help the sunglasses stand out against your face’s symmetrical curves. With such a classic design, don’t be afraid to make a statement through bold frames or mirrored lenses. Just make sure your sunglasses aren’t too big or too small. An oversized or undersized pair will throw off the natural balance of this face shape.
OVAL
Heart shaped faces, sometimes referred to as triangular, have high cheekbones and a chin much narrower than the forehead. To equalize the straighter transition from chin to forehead, choose oversized, circular sunglasses. The consistent shape will equalize the varying width of the face. Make sure to take advantage of this unique ability:circular lenses are hot for this summer, so rock the throw-back look.
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Dancing Through Time Contemporary and modern dance have been stage partners for more than half a century. When they part, their histories showcase fundamental change in the art of movement. By: Lanni Solochek, Arts Writer
I
n the early 15th century, a form of established dance emerged from the Renaissance courts in Italy. This style, dubbed “ballo,” would later transform the artistic world and come to be known as “ballet.” As the respected genre of dance spread across the world over the next five centuries, it modernized and evolved, before giving way to two styles that exploded in the 20th century: modern and contemporary. For many people familiar with dance, even professional choreographers and performers, modern and contemporary are closely intertwined with minute differences that give unique meaning to a piece. Many see the difference primarily in the language; modern dance fed off of the emergence of modern art in the early 20th century, while contemporary came after-the-fact and has its roots in contemporary culture. Others distinguish by the use and presentation of the body. While modern dance focuses on physical opposition and abstraction, contemporary focuses on technical athleticism and “a more pluralistic aesthetic,” according to Oberlin Dance Collective founder and artistic director, Brenda Way. Glenn Edgerton, artistic director of Hubbard Street Dance Chicago, makes the notable distinction that, “The use of the body, the use of weight, also defines the piece. If you have a classical piece on pointe, the moment they lean off pointe and take their weight off balance, it would be considered contemporary classical.” The history of these two unique but related styles in American dance goes back more than a century to the founding mother of American modern dance, Isadora Duncan.
Duncan to Denishawn In 1896, Isadora Duncan joined Augustin Daly’s New York company but her unique brand of dance which favored personal expression over technique and rigidity made her membership short-lived. Duncan moved to Western Europe at the turn of the century. Inspired by the avant-garde art of Paris, she created an innovative style of dance before opening her first school in Grunewald, Germany in 1904. In the next seventeen years, she established two more schools, one in the United States and the other in Moscow. Her style spread across the world as she taught about the importance of dance as movement, directly tied to musicality, dynamics and expression--all tenants that ballet often negated for the sake of clean technique and choreography. Duncan’s movement-based genre emerged at the same time as Ruth St. Denis developed her Eastern-cultures-inspired style. After performing vaudeville for five years in New York City, St. Denis met David Belasco, a successful Broadway producer who gave her fame with his production of “Zaza.” While on tour, St. Denis encountered the work of influential Japanese, Indian and Egyptian artists. She left Belasco’s company in 1905 to produce and perform “Radha,” a solo performance that told the story of a romance between a human maid and the god Krishna. At this time, St. Denis’s work focused on translation and mythology by appealing to the five senses. Through bells, flowers, wine, jewels and kisses of the palm, she ignited audience members like never before. After popularizing her solo work in Europe until 1909, St. Denis created touring group pieces in America.
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Here she met Ted Shawn, a ballroom dancer who became not only her dance partner, but also her lover. Together, they opened the Denishawn School, which hosted and trained a slew of the biggest names in modern dance, including Martha Graham and Doris Humphrey. Graham to Cunningham A young Martha Graham began studying under Shawn and St. Denis in 1916. Her idea of movement extended beyond that of Duncan or St. Denis: she was committed to combining their methods and created a “movement language” through dance. For Graham, dance was a connection between the brain and the body that was both aesthetically pleasing and emotionally charged. In the late 1920s and early 1930s, Graham was experiencing the styles of popular European dancers and choreographers like Mary Wigman, whose style is associated with a complex use of silence still popular today. Graham’s wide learning breadth gave birth to a new style of movement called contraction and release. This motion is held as a tenant of modern dance and creates distinct muscle control, contrasting the smoothness of a body with the brash nature of movement. In 1926, a group of students came together to learn under Graham. Together, they formed the Martha Graham Studio, which later became the Martha Graham Dance Company and the oldest performing dance company in the world. Graham’s style began a new wave of dance that explored humanity at its essence. She revolutionized the art and made space for artistic expression that was previously unpopular. With help from Doris Humphrey, creator of the ‘fall and recovery’ technique, and her partner Charles Weidman, founder of kinetic pantomime, Graham and her company started a new wave of dance.
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In the mid-1930s, a student entered the Martha Graham Dance Company that would change the face of dance forever. Merce Cunningham became a soloist with MGDC in 1939. After leaving the company in 1945 to pursue a solo career, Cunningham developed his own style, which would come to be known as “choreography of chance” or a “use of chance.” Cunningham’s style focused on different perspectives of performance. He made new connections between music and movement, popularizing non-conventional performance spaces and changing rhythms or directions. Cunningham’s dance favored isolation movement and often relied on the flip of a coin or the rolling of a die to decide what order the choreography would flow in. His eclectic style combined techniques from jazz, classic ballet and modern dance to create a hybrid: contemporary. The Merce Cunningham Dance Company opened in 1953 and performed until 2012, when it became the Merce Cunningham Trust in his honor. Present Champions of these paired styles continue on today. Movement series from Cunningham and Graham can be found in thousands of dances and have paved the way for new creative expressions. Artists like Shen Wei, Mia Michaels, Sonya Tayeh carry on and evolve contemporary and modern dance while creating a path for the next wave of movement-minded innovators.
sources History of Ballet: http://www.newworldencyclopedia.org/entry/Ballet Way/Edgerton differentiation: http://www.dancemagazine.com/issues/december-2012/Modern-vs-Contemporary#sthash.0iq10HFl.dpuf http://www.pitt.edu/~gillis/dance/ruth.html http://www.thefamouspeople.com/contemporary-dancers-choreographers.php http://www.balletaustin.org/education/documents/HistoryofModernDanceStudentHandout.pdf
FASHION WEEKS
AROUND THE WORLD Tour the globe with a visit to the best, underexplored fashion hubs. By Emma Leuman, Fashion Writer We live in a world that is constantly expanding. As social media continues to connect us to people across oceans and borders, our worldview adapts to include those inhabiting the same planet. However, fashion hasn’t exactly kept up with this growing frame. Year after year in the biannual event that we dub “Fashion Month,” the leaders of the industry only focus on the fashion weeks of four cities: New York, London, Milan and Paris. While these cities boast well-known designers, historic venues and creative collections, they aren’t the only cities around the world with fashion weeks. Major cities like Copenhagen, Beijing and Cape Town host fashion weeks of their own, showcasing designers whose heritages can bring a new perspective to our concept of fashion.
COPENHAGEN
Ganni
Henrik Vibskov
Ivan Grundahl
While this city is still considered European, its edge and tendency toward the avantgarde warrants a mention. Designers who show in Copenhagen are known for pushing the envelope and stepping outside of fashion conventions. While they may not be mainstream trend-setters, they don’t mean to be. They design for the sake of expressing themselves in clothing form. Menswear-inspired fashion is also much more prevalent at Copenhagen fashion week, with designers integrating androgyny and asexuality into their collections. In short, Copenhagen is the traditional fashion month’s edgier counterpoint.
photo credits: http://www.copenhagenfashionweek.com/ http://earthtoiris.com/category/fashion-shows/beijing-fashion-week-spring-summer-2015/ https://hauteafricaa.wordpress.com/2015/04/17/lumin-mercedes-benz-fashion-week-joburg-2015/ http://www.stefaniamorland.com/
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BEIJING
C.Colectare
Tom Dong
Tom Dong
As luxury retail continues to thrive in Asia, Beijing’s fashion week will likely become increasingly important to fashion journalists. The burgeoning market there could prove to be very valuable to tap into, and paying attention to local designers could be the first step. Beijing’s fashion week draws off of the concept of luxury. Sumptuous fabrics often grace the runway with an emphasis on lightweight fabrics like silk and chiffon, along with other sheer materials. Beijing designers tend to focus on appealing to the European style that many Chinese people have grown to love, while integrating their own more traditional aesthetics.
CA P E T O W N
Stefani Morland
Lumin
Stefani Morland
South African Fashion Week sets itself apart from all the rest in one simple way: it is abundant with color. While designers from the “Big Four” cities tend to show collections either interspersed with, or completely made up of black pieces, South African designers are not afraid to integrate bold colors. Willing to play with pattern and saturated hues, South African designers produce playful, stunning collections season after season. Silhouettes can range from modern to avantgarde, making this fashion week a hard one to define in basic terms. By bucking trends, these designers create clothing with character and pizazz. While the major players in the fashion world continue to turn a blind eye to fashion weeks around the world, it is important to keep in mind that there are other cities out there than New York, London, Milan and Paris. There are designers creating clothing from different perspectives and with different aesthetics. By taking a moment to look beyond the traditional fashion capitals, and looking into fashion weeks held around the world, you may gain new appreciation for the many voices that are frequently left out of discussions of what is “in.” 36 | May 2015
MODA YEARBOOK 2015
Senior quotes With their impending graduation, the senior members of Moda bid adieu with some final words of wisdom.
Caroline Kreul
MEKEA LARSON
Barbara Gonzalez
“You can do anything, but not everything.” -David Allen
“All good things are wild and free.” -Henry David Thoreau
“Write what must not be forgotten.” -Isabel Allende
Paige Schultz
Andrew connor
Roberto leon
“Have courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become.” -Steve Jobs
“We are here on Earth to fart around, and don’t let anybody tell you different.” -Kurt Vonnegut
“The most important thing is to enjoy your life- to be happythat’s all that matters.” -Audrey Hepburn May 2015 | 37
Jesse Tovar
Chloe Karaskiewicz Bronte Mansfield
“It’s not brave to do something that doesn’t scare you.” -Lena Dunham
“Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.” -Pablo Picasso
“Sweatpants are a sign of defeat.” -Karl Lagerfeld
Ali Zimmerman
Kaitlin Dunn
Lanni Solocheck
“ You can never be great at anything unless you love it.” -Maya Angelou
“As far as I’m concerned leopard is a neutral.” -Jenna Lyons
Phebe Myers
Karina Debourne
“My mission in life is not merely to survive, but to thrive; and to do so with some passion, some compassion, some humor, and some style.” - Maya Angelou
“Run. Fly. Go as fast as you can. Don’t stop.” - Kanye West
“No matter what happens in life, be good to people. Being good to people is a wonderful legacy to leave behind.” - Taylor Swift
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MODA