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Dining ( 15

NORTH BAY BOH EM I AN | MAY 1 1-17, 20 1 1 | BO H E M I AN.COM

$$$.Rustic, seasonal, Italian food. Kid-friendly. Lunch and dinner daily. 625 Redwood Hwy, Mill Valley. 415.380.2525.

Small Shed Flatbreads Pizza. $$. Slow Food-informed Marin Organics devotee with a cozy, relaxed family atmosphere and no BS approach to great food served simply for a fair price. 17 Madrona Ave, Mill Valley. Open for lunch and dinner daily. 415.383.4200.

N A PA CO U N T Y Brannan’s Grill California cuisine. $$-$$$. Creative cuisine in handsome Craftsman setting. Lunch and dinner daily. 1347 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga. 707.942.2233.

Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen Eclectic. $$-$$$. As comfortable as it sounds, with a rich and varied melting pot of a menu. Lunch and dinner daily. 1327 Railroad Ave, St Helena. 707.963.1200.

Fujiya Japanese. $$-$$$. Good, solid sushi. The Fujiya Deluxe combo is a standout. Lunch and dinner, Tues-Sat. 921 Factory Stores Dr, Napa. 707.257.0639.

Fumé Bistro & Bar California cuisine. $$$. California bistro fare that nearly always hits the mark. Lunch and dinner daily. 4050 Byway E, Napa. 707.257.1999.

Gilwoods Cafe Diner. $-$$. Classic hometown diner, specializes in the homemade. Breakfast and lunch daily. 1320 Napa Town Center, Napa. 707.253.0409. 1313 Main St, St Helena. 707.963.1788.

SMALL BITES

Wednesday Night Wine Serving wine isn’t usually a controversial idea in Sonoma County, but to read the terrified public comment that’s emerged about Santa Rosa’s Wednesday Night Market hosting a winetasting area, you’d think that the downtown is about to be littered with vomiting hobos smashing storefronts, peeing in the street and punching newborn babies. The horror! This, of course, is an exaggeration. “There’s been a lot of time and effort into creating a tasting-room experience,” assures Chris Denny, Market board member, “and not a drunk fest.” Denny, who moved here six years ago from Florida, wasn’t around to remember the first great scare for what was once known as the Thursday Night Market, back in the 1990— namely, that “undesirable elements” from out of town were causing problems. The decision that ultimately resulted changed the name of the Market for good, and provided plenty of eye-rolling: If we move the Market to Wednesday night, organizers determined, then gang members from Vallejo will get confused and stop coming. Which is why it’s nice to hear Denny says things like “Sonoma County is very diverse, and the market is, too. I love that.” As for the hubbub over winetasting? “We’re kind of happy that it’s controversial in some ways,” he assures. “It just shows that people are passionate about the market.” Tip your plastic glass of Merlot, grab a plate of food and see people you went to high school with every Wednesday night through Aug. 31 on Fourth Street in downtown Santa Rosa. 5–8pm. Free. www.srdowntownmarket. com.—Gabe Meline

Go Fish Seafood/sushi. $$$$$. An über-trio of chefs all in one fantastic fresh fish house: Cindy Pawlcyn, Victor Scargle and Ken Tominaga. Need we say more? Open for lunch and dinner daily. 641 Main St, St Helena. 707.963.0700.

Gott’s Roadside Tray Gourmet Diner. $. Formerly Taylor’ Automatic Refresher. Lunch and dinner daily. 933 Main St, St Helena.

707.963.3486. Also at Oxbow Public Market, 644 First St, Napa. 707.224,6900.

Miguel’s MexicanCalifornian. $$. Ultracasual setting and laid-back service belies the delicious kitchen magic within; chilaquiles are legendary. Breakfast, lunch and

dinner daily. 1437 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga. 707.942.6868.

Redd California cuisine. $$$$$. Rich dishes balanced by subtle flavors and careful yet casual presentation. Lunch, Mon-Sat; dinner daily; brunch, Sun. 6480 Washington St, Yountville. 707.944.2222.


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