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1TTaPcP With the help of several partners, Ceja Vineyards hopes to open a brewery in Sonoma for 2011. Twenty-year beer-industry veteran Jesus Ceja has been recruited as brewmaster from Anheuser-Busch. Latin-American food will be part of their offerings. 1248 First St., Napa. 707.255.3954. Whole Foods Market Tap Room features 16 beers on tap with the St. Bernardous topping at 10.5 percent ABV. 390 Coddingtown Mall, Santa Rosa. 707.542.7411. Napa Smith Brewery hopes to open its tasting room to the public in the summer of 2011, now contenting itself to sell its bottled and cask beers to a variety of Napa Valley locations. According to master brewer Don Barkley, NSB prides itself “on making beer that’s very food-friendly,� and next month will honor the season with the annual release of its Bonfire Imperial Porter. 1 Executive Way, Napa. 707.255.2912. The Moonlight Brewery is something of a misnomer, as brewmaster Brian Hunt would have to host folks in folding chairs on his western Sonoma County driveway if they came to visit. Instead, he sells to a large variety of area bars, brewpubs and restaurants. www. moonlightbrewing.com. —Gretchen Giles and Rothtana Ouch BDI0==4 30;H

>5 =>C4 ‘ABV’ is the acronym for ‘alcohol by volume’ and denotes the kick to come.

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The 411 on area brewpubs and brewers By Suzanne Daly, Gretchen Giles, Gabe Meline, Rothtana Ouch, Sara Jane Pohlman and Haley Samson

Sonoma County Mouthfeel: Bear Republic Brewing Co. Wort: Bear Republic was founded in 1995 by Richard R. Norgrove and his family. The brewpub opened in Healdsburg the following year and is best known for its three R’s: Racer 5, a nationally renowned, medalwinning IPA; Red Rocket, a “bastardized� Scottish ale; and Hot Rod Rye, made with 18 percent rye. Caskage: In addition to 5,000-plus barrels produced at the brewpub, a whopping 25,000 barrels were made at the production facility in Cloverdale. Bear Republic’s beer is distributed in 35 states and internationally. ABV: Old Baba Yaga, one of many specialty beers, tops the ABV chart at 11.5 percent, but is only sporadically offered at the brewpub. Big Bear Black, a Russian imperial stout with 8.1 percent ABV, can be found on a regular basis nationwide. Bear Republic won two national competitions at the 2010 Great American Beer Festival. Mash: Just off the square, patrons can enjoy a pint or plate of food in a family atmosphere. 345 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg. 707.433.2337.—S.D. Mouthfeel: Dempsey’s Wort: Dempsey’s is now the oldest brewery in Sonoma County, having been founded in 1991 by Peter and Bernadette Burrell. Far beyond being a brewery, Dempsey’s shines as a restaurant. Fresh, local ingredients are used to create a quality menu far above the usual pub grub.

Caskage: Five hundred barrels of beer were made this year, with Red Rooster and the local favorite, Petaluma Strong Ale, composing about 30 percent. Though most beers are only available in-house, Dempsey’s bottles both Red Rooster and PSA for sale in local markets. ABV: The cock of the walk, Red Rooster, has a bantam weight of 6 percent ABV, while the seasonal barley wine weighs in between 11 and 12 percent. In 2009, Dempsey’s pilsner won a gold medal at the Great American Beer Fest in Lallemand’s “Brain of Brewers� competition. Mash: Folks love to sit on Dempsey’s outdoor patio overlooking the Petaluma River. The brewery also makes great, homestyle root beer. 50 E. Washington St., Petaluma. 707.765.9694.—S.D. Mouthfeel: Hopmonk Tavern Wort: Hopmonk was founded by veteran brewer—and Gordon Biersch coowner—Dean Biersch in April 2008. Set in Sebastopol’s historic stone powerhouse facility, the brewery also has an outdoor beer garden and the Abbey, an adjacent bar and music venue. Caskage: Keeping house production very small at some 100-plus barrels a year, Hopmonk stresses that they are more about presenting a wide range of local and international brews than brewing many of their own. ABV: Hopmonk offers three housemade beers which all have an ABV ranging in the mid-fives. The house specialty is the Hopmonk Kellerbier, a German-style lager. The vast selection of other beers offered runs the ABV gamut, topping out at 12 percent. Come November, a new Hopmonk will be

opening in the town of Sonoma, three blocks off the square. Hopmonk Sonoma will boast a beer garden with a fire ring, fountains and a stage for acoustic music. Mash: Hopmonk shines as a music venue, attracting a range of acts from Leon Russell to local singer-songwriter Ash Reiter. 230 Petaluma Ave., Sebastopol. 707.829.7300.—S.D. Mouthfeel: Lagunitas Brewing Co. Wort: Founded in 1993, Lagunitas specializes in crafting a wide variety of maverick beers. Owner Tony Magee composes recipes much like musical counterpoint, combining the melodies of hops, yeast, water and wheat into a beer that sings. Caskage: Lagunitas has released approximately 100,000 barrels of beer this year, with its Northern California’s bestselling IPA accounting for about 57,420 of said barrels. Seven other beers are offered year-round, including Hop Stoopid Pale Ale. Nine seasonal beers enter the rotation to keep things interesting but not too chaotic. ABV: While Lagunitas IPA weighs in with an ABV of 6.2 percent, the brewery’s Old Gnarly Wine, a winter favorite, boasts almost twice that at 12 percent. With autumn comes a Little Sumpin’ Wild, a golden Belgian ale to echo the season’s light. Mash: Lagunitas welcomes a kaleidoscope of characters to its Tap Room and Beer Sanctuary for a pairing of suds and sounds five days a week. Second to its IPA, Lagunitas is best known for its nonconformist style, personified in parties and annual events like the Beer Circus, and of course, the stories that they print on the labels. 1280 N. McDowell Blvd., Petaluma. 707.778.8776.—S.D. Mouthfeel: Russian River Brewing Co. Wort: Since moving out of its Guerneville location in 2004, this pub has specialized in barrel-aged beers and Belgian-style ales. Owners Vinnie and Natalie Cilurzo bought the brewery when founders Korbel Champagne Cellars left the beer business in 2002. Caskage: The brewery puts out 310,000 gallons, with every variety available on tap. While only six brews are bottled—Blind Pig, Pliny the Elder, Damnation, Redemption, Supplication and Consecration—to-go growlers are the same price as a pitcher. ABV: Brewmaster Vinnie Cilurzo was granted the prestigious Russell Schehrer Award for Innovation in Craft Brewing in

2008. Esteemed for Pliny the Elder, a double IPA at 8 percent ABV, the volume gets kicked up with a 10 percent ABV dark ale aged in a cabernet barrel called Consecration. Mash: RRBC hosts a happy hour that lasts all day Sunday. 725 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 707.545.2337.—S.J.P. Mouthfeel: Ruth McGowan’s Brewpub Wort: This Irish pub has been brewing pilsners and ales in giant copper tanks since 2002, when owners Mike and Mary Ann Brigham named their artisan watering hole after Mike’s grandmother. Caskage: Some 14,400 gallons of suds flow from Ruth McGowan’s tanks every year. Bottling for retail should begin next year. ABV: Their KONG Brown Ale is spelled with all-caps for a reason—a few pints at 8.2 percent ABV can hit like a sledgehammer. Mash: The Cloverdale Ale is a balanced delight with a sweet flavor and a hop kick, and it matches the historic photos and signs on the walls honoring this small town’s past. 131 E. First St., Cloverdale. 707.894.9610.—G.M. Mouthfeel: Sonoma Springs Brewing Wort: Sonoma Springs is a two-year-old brewhouse that opened a small tasting room in April 2009 operating Thursday–Monday. Brewmaster and co-owner Tim Goeppinger concentrates on German-style beers. Caskage: Selling only draft, Sonoma Springs produces some 350 barrels a year. “You can’t find our bottles anywhere except here when I do them,� Goeppinger says. “Distribution is tough,� he laughs, “because I’m the brewer and the guy who delivers the kegs.� ABV: Inspired by Russian River Brewing Co.’s monster hit Pliny the Elder, Goeppinger does Little Chief, a 8 percent ABV strong pale ale. Sonoma Springs specializes in Weissbier, a white or wheat beer, and for the fall has the Noma Weiss at 6.5 percent ABV and the Noma Coma, a malty double IPA that clocks in at a strong 8.5 ABV. Mash: Artisan’s Bakery is next door and hungry sudsers can purchase food there and bring it in to enjoy with their brew. Shiso Japanese brings their catering truck in on Thursdays for fresh sushi. 750 W. Napa St., Sonoma. 707.938.7422.—G.G. Mouthfeel: Stumptown Brewery Wort: This cash-only spot overlooking the Russian River accepts cash only for ' %

THE BOHEMIAN

10.06.10-10.12.10

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