EAT
Priest-Choking Pasta When the church was a big Marche landowner, farmers’ wives would make thick pasta twists to bribe the local clergymen who came to collect the rent. It was said that the farmers, wild with jealousy (eating a wife’s pasta was considered tantamount to bedding her), wished the priests would choke on it.
Photo By Arah Bahn
Another version had it that poor peasants and restaurateurs hoped the freeloading priests would choke on the cheaper first course, the pasta, before reaching the more expensive second, or meat course. So they developed this heavy hand-rolled pasta shape, which seemed likeliest to do the job. No word on the results, but evidently strozzapreti has its uses, even today. Advised one foodie blog: “The perfect cut to serve your gluttonous relatives!”
Straight from the Earth and Sea Marche is all about cucina povera – a few simple ingredients, recently picked, caught or killed B y H eather A nderson Marche has called “the other Tuscany,” but its rustic cucina povera reflects a farm-to-fork, elemental and seasonal approach that prides itself on, above all, stunning freshness. Stretching from mountains to sea, and touching both the Italian north and south, Le Marche spans a range of Italian climates and cultures – and its cuisine reflects the same astonishing range. The beauty of the food lies in its traditional, hearty flavors. It’s less well-known than other Italian cuisines, but small farmhouses and the expanding agriturismo industry are helping to raise its profile. Dishes depend on local produce and meats for their rich, full-bodied flavors. “Le Marche is a very long region, therefore we have different styles of cuisine,” said Maria Anrichetta “Keki” Pompili, owner of the food purveyor and café Alimentare in Cagli.
Urbino View ‘10-’11
20
Fish and fish products dominate on the coast, while in the mountains you’ll find truffles and pig, wild boar and rabbit. Two popular cheeses are pecorino Romano and formaggio di fossa. Made with a blend of sheep’s and cow’s milk, fossa – the word means “buried,” as the cheese is matured underground -- has a firm consistency and cylindrical shape, and a pungent, almost bitter flavor; it is considered a delicacy. Similar to Parmesan in its hard, flaky texture, pecorino Romano boasts a salty, sharp flavor, and is used in many pasta dishes. Casciotta d’Urbino, a delightfully sweet, lightly acidic cheese, has a crumbly texture with small holes throughout. It is a beautiful white color. In snacks, olive all’ascolana, fried olives stuffed with pork, are typically found in the southern city of Ascoli Piceno. The olives are often served as an antipasto, but also look for them at small stands along the winding roads. They are definitely worth a stop. Crescia sfogliata, a much-loved local
flatbread often stuffed with spinach, prosciutto or cheese, features at many a café, and is also served as an appetizer. Special cheese versions are baked at Christmas and Easter. Le Marche is known for its homemade pastas, especially the comfort food passatelli. Made with eggs, breadcrumbs and Parmesean, passatelli is typically cooked and served in chicken broth. The hand-rolled pasta twists strozzapreti – “choke the priest”-- are often served with a wild boar ragu. Brodetto, a delectable fish stew, comes from the coast. Made with the fish of the Adriatic Sea, it is traditionally served over toasted bread. The inland meat dishes tend to focus on game, such rabbit and pigeon, or on pork and veal. A traditional dish is porchetta, a whole pig, stuffed and roasted on a spit over a fire. You’ll read more about the foods of Le Marche, and meet the people who grow, make and serve them, in the following pages. Enjoy! v