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COUTURE TECHNIQUES FOR LACE BY CLAIRE SHAEFFER DECEMBER 2013/JANUARY 2014 VOGUEPATTERNS.COM
SAMPLER
Contents Vogue Patterns Magazine December 2013/January 2014
FEATURES
14 Andersen & Sheppard, Savile Row Synonymous with superior English bespoken tailoring, this firm is the last to make all garments by hand. by Marilyn Stevens
16 Sandra Betzina Mega-media Sewing Superstar Teacher, author, TV host, designer—meet one of the hardest working women in the sewing industry.
18 In Pursuit of Perfect Pants Drawing on the tradition of the great French couturiers, Philippine Janssens creates beautiful custom pants in the heart of Paris. by Marcy and Katherine Tilton
22 Fashion Bound
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A brief history of the corset and society’s love-hate relationship with them. by Daryl Brower
26 Corset Building The fourth and final installment of our series covers inserting bones and grommets and assembly. by Linda Sparks
30 Down to a Science Use a pre-made down blanket to line a chic winter coat for warmth and style without a fluffy mess. by Kathryn Brenne
ON THE COVER A seashell-patterned matelassé underscores the organic lines of the peplum jacket with asymmetrical shawl collar. V8465, Misses’ 6-22. Earrings: Carolina Design. Hat: Eric Javits. Gloves: Carolina Amato. Hair and makeup by Joseph Boggess.
2 VOGUE PATTERNS
58 Couture Corner: Lace Easy couture techniques that streamline construction with out sacrificing quality. by Claire Shaeffer
FASHION
RUNWAY REPORTS
38 Winter Whites
36 Winter White
The many shades and textures of white are showcased in styles and silhouettes that meet the demands of your busy lifestyle.
Designers showed whites from head to toe, offering dresses, coats, pants and jackets in shades subtle or stark.
74 Outerwear Options 52 Best Dressed Looks we love from Tracy Reese, DKNY, Kay Unger, Guy Laroche, and Tom and Linda Platt.
62 Evening Elegance Go for the glamour this season in a sparkling gown, nostalgic palazzo pants or a trendy tuxedo look.
70 Top Priorities
Take inspiration from this roundup of runway styles that ranges from bold brights and airy pastels to opulent furs and tailored menswear styles. by Moni Briones
IN EVERY ISSUE
5 Editor’s Letter 6 What Are You Sewing?
Creative tops from two of our favorite designers, Marcy Tilton and Sandra Betzina.
76 Warm Wishes A collection of coats, capes and wraps to keep you warm on cold days.
82 Finishing Touches Fabulous accessories that will keep you cozy while they brighten up your coldweather look. And they’re great for gifts!
10 Must-Haves 96 Thread Tales RESOURCES
90 Guide to Patterns and Fabric Requirements 94 Body Measurement Charts 95 Fabric and Accessory Guide
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86 Fireside Fashion Stylish pajamas, robes and lingerie for snuggling up by the hearth.
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DECEMBER 2013/JANUARY 2014 3
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V1332
MASTER INSTRUCTION
Down to a Science Use a Pre-Made Down Blanket to Line a Chic Winter Coat for Warmth and Style Without a Fluffy Mess BY KATHRYN BRENNE
Winters can be brutally cold, especially where I live in Canada, making it challenging to dress for the weather without looking like an arctic explorer. For a few years now I have been on the lookout for a down coat that is warm and lightweight but still stylish. Most that I have found in ready-to-wear look alike, with a hood, ribs of horizontal or vertical quilting, and a straight or slightly fitted silhouette, usually falling to hip length or below the knee. I wanted something different. My wish list included a nice big collar that I could pull up around my neck and face during blustery weather, outside pockets with zippers to hold my car keys, gloves and wallet, and a length that would cover my torso to keep me warm. Vogue Pattern 1332 had the look I wanted, and my creative juices began to flow when I realized the lining of this design is quilted. Rather than continue to search for my ideal winter coat, I decided to create my own. The pattern calls for batting to be quilted to the lining pieces, but I prefer the lightweight insulation of down. Down is not readily available for sale, and would create quite a mess during construction, so I needed to be resourceful. I came across a summer-weight duck down quilt on sale for $89 at an outdoor
store and thought it would be perfect to line my coat. I wouldn’t have to quilt it, and the colors (purple on one side and charcoal on the other) worked well for my intended look. I wanted the outer fabric of the coat to be somewhat water and wind resistant, yet lightweight enough to drape into the cocoon shape. It also needed to be tightly woven to prevent any loose down from escaping. I chose a high-tech dark brown ripstop two-layer waterproof/breathable fabric with a matte finish, purchased from peak fabrics.com. Other suitable fabrics include Gore-Tex®, Commander cloth, polyester microfiber, and nylon ripstop. I was able to construct the majority of the coat according to the pattern’s instructions, but the down lining required some special cutting and stitching techniques, and I made a few design changes along the way. Here’s a rundown of what I did and what you need to make this down coat yourself. PATTERN CHANGES
SUPPLIES Vogue Pattern 1332 Queen-size duck down quilt Waterproof/breathable technical fabric for the shell All-bias knit fusible interfacing 100% polyester all-purpose thread Microtex size 60 130/705 H-M sewing machine needle Teflon foot or walking foot Teflon or non-stick pressing cloth Clover Wonder Clips or binder clips Double-sided Wonder Tape Pattern weights Two 6" (15cm) zippers for pockets Three wire-shank buttons Three 1/4" (6mm) round jump rings (used in jewelry making) Pliers Buttonhole chisel Eyelet cutter or rotary hole punch
Although the down compresses, it takes up more space than the thin quilt batting the pattern is drafted for. Use a pattern one size larger than you normally would to accommodate this bulk.
TIP To make your own down coat or jacket, try repurposing a down comforter, a summerweight sleeping bag, or an old down garment. Look for an item that has been box quilted, as box quilting helps to contain the down and prevent it from settling in one area. Try to avoid using down that’s mixed with feathers, which make for a heavier garment and tend to work their way through the outer fabric.
DECEMBER 2013/JANUARY 2014 31
COUTURE CORNER
A Lighter Approach to Lace Easy Couture Techniques that Streamline Construction Without Sacrificing Quality. BY CLAIRE SHAEFFER
THE TOILE AND PATTERN
When working with fine fabrics, it’s
58 VOGUE PATTERNS
TIP If you aren’t used to working with patterns without seam allowances, make a note on each pattern piece so you won’t forget to add them when cutting.
left. Then mark the notches, construction symbols, and grainlines on each pattern piece. (See more about marking below.) THE FABRIC
Christian Dior Original
worthwhile to begin with a muslin or trial garment to fine-tune the fit and practice your sewing skills. After the muslin is altered, use it to make a new pattern. Cut a complete pattern with a piece for each section so the lace can be laid out and cut in a single layer. Don’t bother to add seam allowances to the pattern pieces since the lace motifs are much easier to match without them. To avoid cutting two left sleeves, label the sections by name, indicating right and
Most machine-made laces are manufactured with a scallop design on one edge. For this dress, you will need scallops on both edges so there will be enough to finish the neck, wrists, and hem. Or, you can use the scalloped edging on the lace for the neck and wrist edges and purchase a separate lace trim for the hem. Don’t worry about matching it exactly; many couture and ready-towear dresses successfully combine three or four different laces. If you choose to do this, just make sure they are similar in weight and fiber content. Technically lace doesn’t have a grain since it isn’t woven. Because it typically has more stretch in the width, however, it is important to cut the pattern pieces on grain to avoid distortion. Examine the lace before cutting to determine the direction of the motifs. Some laces will have the motifs running up and down while others will have them running across. The lace can be cut lengthwise or crosswise; just be consistent throughout the garment. Many lace designs will require a layout designed for napped
CHRISTIAN DIOR DRESS: ©TAUNTON PRESS, 2012. REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THREADS NO. 164; THREADSMAGAZINE.COM.
In haute couture many lace designs are completely hand-sewn, with motifs individually cut out and appliquéd to avoid interrupting the design at seams and darts. While this meticulous labor may be justified for a once-in-a-lifetime event dress, few of us have the time for such skilled and intricate work on everyday garments. Couture construction techniques for lace conceal structural elements while allowing for detailed seaming and a shaped fit, but they don’t work for all lace designs. Sheer or delicate laces with subtle or widely spaced motifs do not lend themselves to these methods as they can add unwanted bulk, and stitches cannot be hidden as easily. As an alternative, some top couturiers back the lace with organza or chiffon, which both improves the stability of the garment and considerably abbreviates the sewing process by allowing the use of standard construction techniques while keeping seams concealed. The 1971 Christian Dior haute couture dress that inspired Vogue pattern V8943 was completely underlined with organza, which concealed the seam allowances and darts and eliminated the need for meticulous hand appliqué. While I made several design changes to modernize the look of the dress, I kept the Dior construction techniques for the assembly. The result is a couturequality garment that’s simpler to sew and easy enough to wear every day.
COUTURE CORNER
V8943 DECEMBER 2013/JANUARY 2014 59
WINTER
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HAIR AND MAKEUP: JOSEPH BOGGESS
Classic and contemporary coats take on a bold new attitude in white. Opposite page: Traditionalists will love this double-breasted design in textured basketweave wool. V8346, Misses’ 6-22. Necklace: Carolina Deigns. Hat: Eric Javits. Shoes: Guess. This page: This fleece number will keep you warm and cozy while its futuristic lines turn heads. V8775, Very Easy Vogue, Misses’ XS (4-6) – XXL (24-26). Hat: Eric Javits. Gloves: Carolina Amato. Boots: Not Rated.
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HAIR AND MAKEUP: JOSEPH BOGGESS
Try something soft and sweet. This page: Tracy Reese uses pleats to add dimension on the bodice of this empire-waist design. Tracy Reese V1371, Misses’ 6-22. Opposite page: Sheer sequined chiffon is the fabric of choice for DKNY’s bowadorned blouse and peasant-style skirt. DKNY V1368, Misses’ 6-22. Tights and shoes: DKNY.
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