Ohio Beverage Monthly January 2013

Page 31

Scenes from the Right Bank: Vines growing just outside the town center of St. Émilion; two scenes from nearby Côtes de Bordeaux.

BANK ON IT BORDEAUX WINE REGIONS

WHILE NEW WORLD-STYLE WINES TEND TO BE PLEASANT TO SIP ALONE, BORDEAUX REDS OFTEN NEED FOOD TO BALANCE THEIR LEANNESS.

Underrated Food Wine Aside from top wines, red Bordeaux’s style tends to be restrained and lean in fruit character, juicy in acidity and lightly bracing in tannin. This poses quite a contrast to New World, Bordeaux-style wines (like those from Napa and Washington), which usually have rich fruit, moderate acidity, creamy tannins and toasty notes from wood aging. While New World—style wines tend to be as pleasant to sip alone as they are with food. Bordeaux reds often need food to balance their leanness. Claret can be an ideal “go-to” wine for shoppers en route home to prepare dinner.

Selling – Communes, Styles, Prices and Vintages Bottom line: there’s the question of what to stock for your customers. I suggest selecting primarily by style and price. Then, vary the communes. Focus on recent, easy-drinking vintages since U.S. shoppers are most accustomed to youthful wines. Here are some profiles I suggest and why: ~ Easy Sipping, $12-$18 SRP: Lalande de Pomerol

These wines possess the soft tannins and Merlot-suppleness of big sister Pomerol

yet carry a more petit price tag. They can usually be enjoyed with or without food. ~ Value for European-Style Wine Lovers, $10-20: Moulis or Graves

These are Left Bank communes based on Cabernet Sauvignon and offering moderate weight wines with finessed aromas. Moulis is north of Bordeaux, and like its well-known neighbors Margaux and Saint Julien, it offers firmer structure than wines from the southerly Graves region.

✒The terms Left Bank and Right Bank are central to the geography of Bordeaux. The region is naturally divided by the Gironde Estuary. The Right Bank (shown in green) is known best for the communes of St. Émilion and Pomerol. The Left Bank (maroon shades) includes the Médoc peninsula and Graves. The region of Entre-Deux-Mers (literally “between two seas”) lies between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers, which combine to form the Gironde. A rather new designation, Côtes de Bordeaux—encompassing a handful of perimeter appellations, including Blaye, Côtes de Blaye, Premières Côtes de Blaye, Côtes de Bourg, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, Côtes de Castillon, Côtes de Francs and Graves de Vayres—actually stretches across 60 miles of land. This umbrella name was created for maketing purposes, to raise the visibility of the regions as a whole as they are not well understood individually. The wines are primarily red and only 15% of these wines are exported.

FRANCE

~ Value for American-Style Wine Lovers, $10-20: Côtes de Francs and Côtes de Castillon

These are neighboring appellations on the Right Bank, northeast of the famous Pomerol and St. Émilion communes. Many young and well-trained winemakers are crafting clean, ripe and exciting wines based on Merlot and Cabernet Franc. There are good values and discoveries to be found here! ~ More Than Everyday, $20-30: Second Labels of Left Bank Cru Classé wines, especially from St. Julien

These wines offer the Bordelais character and finesse expected from top châteaux at a reasonable price. St. Julien, in particular, offers that magic combination of the Left Bank’s finesse and power. Also,

St. Estèphe Pauillac St. Julien

Pomerol Médoc

St. Émilion

Listrac

Bordeaux City

Pessac-Léognan

Entre-Deux-Mers

Graves Sauternes


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