Maximum Yield CAN Mar/Apr 2013

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CANADA March - April 2013

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Bloom Indoor gardenING expo DENVER

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2013

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LONG BEACH

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July 27-28

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CONTENTS March/April 2013

FEATURES

28 Water Worries

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

34 Cutting With Precision and Ease by Karen Wilkinson

36 Boosting the Bloom

52

36

by Lee McCall

60 As Easy as It Neems by James E. Kostrava

48

44 28

42 Say What?

by steadyGROWpro

44 A Natural Wetting Solution by Donald Lester

48 Root Primer

by Matt LeBannister

52 It Starts with a Seed by Grubbycup

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Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

DEPARTMENTS 6

From the Editor

64

You Tell Us

8

MaximumYield.com

66

Talking Shop

10

Letters to the Editor

68

Max Mart

12

Simon Says

70

Distributors

14

MAX Facts

74

Do You Know?

20

Product Spotlight

74

Coming up next issue


Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

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FROM THE EDITOR | Linda jesson VOLUME 15 – NUMBER 7 March/April 2013

Message from the

Editor Linda Jesson

The weather is warming up and spring is literally around the corner, making it the perfect time to rev up your indoor garden! From starting plants from seeds or cuttings to boosting your final yield, this issue of Maximum Yield has everything you need. We also take a look at cutting-edge technologies based on natural products like yucca based wetting agents and neem extract that will help maximize your crops. Add some new products from our new product profile section to the mix and you are ready to go! We welcome you all to attend our 3rd annual Denver, Colorado, Indoor Gardening Expo– March 17, 2013 to see the newest and greatest products to maximize your garden! Check out indoorgardeningexpo.com for your special complimentary VIP pass! Also, be sure to check out our new “I’m a Fan” contest. Simply tell us why you are a Maximum Yield fan and we will put your name into a draw to win a monthly gift certificate of $100 to your favourite indoor gardening shop, with a chance to win the final grand prize of a $1,000 gift certificate– see page 68 for more details.

Maximum Yield is published monthly by Maximum Yield Publications Inc. 2339A Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Phone: 250.729.2677; Fax 250.729.2687 No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission from the publisher. If undeliverable please return to the address above. The views expressed by columnists are a personal opinion and do not necessarily reflect those of Maximum Yield or the editor.

Publication Agreement Number 40739092 Printed In Canada PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER - Jim Jesson GENERAL MANAGER - Don Moores BUSINESS MANAGER - Linda Jesson editorial editor@maximumyield.com Editor-in-chief Linda Jesson Assistant Editor Jessica Skelton ADVERTISING SALES Ilona Hawser - ilona@maximumyield.com Ashley Heppell - ashley@maximumyield.com Emily Rodgers - emily@maximumyield.com Kelsey Hepples - kelsey@maximumyield.com Katie Montague - katie@maximumyield.com DESIGN & PRODUCTION ads@maximumyield.com Art Director Alice Joe Graphic Designers Liz Johnston Jennifer Everts Dionne Hurd ACCOUNTING Tracy Greeno - accounting@maximumyield.com Tara Campbell - tara@maximumyield.com

CANADIAN DISTRIBUTION Brite-Lite Group • Biofloral • Eddis Wholesale • Greenstar Plant Products Inc. • MegaWatt • Quality Wholesale USA DISTRIBUTION Aurora Innovations • BWGS • General Hydroponics Humbolt Wholesale • Hydrofarm • Hydro International National Garden Wholesale/Sunlight Supply • Nickel City Wholesale Garden Supply • R&M Supply • Tradewinds UK DISTRIBUTION Direct Garden Supplies • Growth Technology • Future Harvest Development Europe • Hydrogarden Nutriculture UK • Dutch Pro • Maxigrow AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTION Dome Garden Supply • House N Garden • Futchatec • Growth Technology • Hydraspher

Share this issue and your love of growing with others! Direct your friends to maximumyield.com for their free digital subscription. 6

Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013



contributors Dr. Lynette Morgan holds a B. Hort.

Lee McCall is an alumnus of Johnson

Donald Lester is the product manager at JH Biotech, a commercial fertilizer manufacturer with 28 OMRI-certified organic products. Donald has a master’s degree in agronomy with over 10 years of agricultural research experience and 50 scientific publications to his credit. He is also director of SaferGro Laboratories, a home and garden products company located in Ventura, California.

Andrew Taylor is the manager

Karen Wilkinson works for EZCLONE Enterprises, Inc., as its social media editor. She came to them with a background in journalism and technical writing and is learning to grow, clone and write for the hydroponics community. She’s a budding gardener and loves growing her own vegetables.

Matt LeBannister developed a

& Wales University. His extensive culinary background helped him gain experience in and knowledge of fine dining and food production, which developed into a career in the hydroponics and year-round gardening industry. Lee and his business partner use their Denver-based businesses to educate the public on sustainable gardening and high-quality produce.

Tech. degree and a PhD in hydroponic greenhouse production from Massey University, New Zealand. Lynette is a partner with SUNTEC International Hydroponic Consultants and has authored five hydroponic technical books. Visit suntec.co.nz for more information.

of Flairform (flairform.com) – an Australian-based manufacturing company. As an analytical chemist with qualifications in plant function and nutrition, he has over 13 years experience in product research and development, and also writes extensively on hydroponic growing techniques.

Grubbycup has been an avid

indoor gardener for over 20 years. His articles were first published in the United Kingdom, and since then his gardening advice has been published in French, Spanish, Italian, Polish, Czechoslovakian and German. He is also considered one of the world’s leading authorities on crochet hydroponics.

green thumb as a child, having been born into a family of experienced gardeners. During his career, he has managed a hydroponic retail store and represented leading companies at the Indoor Gardening Expos. Matt has been writing articles for Maximum Yield since 2007. His articles are published around the world.

Become a Maximum Yield contributor and have your articles read by 250,000 readers throughout USA, Canada, UK, New Zealand and Australia. Maximum Yield is the largest free-to-consumer indoor gardening magazine in the world. Every issue is available on maximumyield.com, which has thousands of unique visitors monthly.

COMING UP ON THE WEB Got Questions? Get Answers. Maximum Yield’s resident experts are available and ready to answer your modern gardening questions. Email editor@maximumyield.com or fill out the “Ask the Experts” question form on maximumyield.com

Gearing up for Another Great Year of Expos The dates for the 2013 Maximum Yield Indoor Gardening Expo have been announced! This year, we have stops in Denver, Colorado; Novi, Michigan; San Francisco, California; and Long Beach, California. Whether you’re a new or experienced gardener, these shows offer something for everyone. Visit indoorgardeningexpo.com for details so you can plan your 2013 vacation.

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Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

Connect to maximumyield.com instantly from your Smartphone with our Quick Response (QR) Code, found on the cover of every issue of Maximum Yield. Now you can access the best products, the most in-depth articles and information, and the latest news at high speeds. Simply download the QR Code Reader software compatible with your Smartphone, scan the QR Code and your phone’s browser will automatically launch, redirecting you to maximumyield.com. It’s that simple!

Connect with US Free Digital Subscription to Maximum Yield Canada Now you can receive Maximum Yield Canada free to your inbox every month. Subscribe to the digital edition of Maximum Yield by simply filling out the form at maximumyield.com/subscriptions

maximumyield.com facebook.com/MaximumYield indoorgardeningexpo.com twitter.com/max_yield



LETTERS TO THE EDITOR Greetings,

One of the things I miss the most is picking up my copies [of Maximum Yield] at the local grow shop. I have learned so much from you over the years. When I come home in June, my first stop will be to grab the latest issue. Thanks, David

Hi, Max Yield,

We're the owners of a new hydroponics store and we’d like to know how we could go about being listed as a distributor. Thanks, Terry Hi, Terry, Simply give us a call at 1-250-729-2677 and speak with one of Maximum Yield’s sales associates. They have all the information you need!

enews

I’m a Fan Winner Announced Ike White from Eastsound, Washington, United States, is the first winner of Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan Contest! Ike said, “I’m a huge fan of Maximum Yield! First off, the magazine looks great. I love your layouts, the cool (and often informative) ads and product reviews. I’m also a big fan the quick little Max Facts and DIY projects. “I always start by checking out the basics articles, then dive into the more tech/complex ones (like how light actually affects plants). I’ve learned so much from reading your magazine, and have been really inspired to try new methods and products because of it. Thank you for putting out this amazing publication.” Thanks for the kudos Ike, and congratulations on winning Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan contest! We hope you enjoy your $100 gift certificate at your favourite indoor gardening shop, Cascadia Garden Supply. Would you like a chance to win Maximum Yield’s I’m a Fan contest? Tell us why you are a fan of Maximum Yield and you could win the monthly prize of $100 gift card to your favourite indoor gardening shop, and also have a chance at the grand prize of a $1,000 gift card to your favourite indoor gardening shop. Simply send your testimonial, name, address, phone number and email address to editor@maximumyield.com, or fill out the online form at maximumyield.com/imafan. Contest closes December 14, 2013.

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Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

Dear editor,

I hope this reaches you. I’m not a very educated man. I never graduated high school and I never did anything very productive in life until I started in this new trend of growing a garden. It’s not a very big one—just a few herbs, veggies and things like that. I’m 45 and knew not one thing (NOTHING lol) about gardening or plant life until I read your mag for the very first time (three years ago, I think). I’ve been an avid reader ever since and I can’t wait til each month’s new mag comes out [so I can get] it from one of the local hydro shops. Because of your articles and your master gardeners, I’ve become a self-taught gardener and I can help … [answer people’s] questions when it comes to soil gardening. I’ve learnt a lot and I’m still learning from your writers and master gardeners [about things from] pH to microbiology, beneficial bacteria to compatibility between fertilizers. Reading your mag and taking what I’m learning from it, I’ve surpassed the people who helped me get started, and they now ask me questions that they can’t answer themselves. It feels very good to help people with their compost questions to soil-based-garden questions, so I just wanted to say keep up the great f-ing work ‘cuz you guys are the best. I tell everyone I know, “If you want to become a gardener on a low budget, Maximum Yield is the mag for you to read if you want ANY chance for success.” Anyway, [thanks to] all the free help that I’ve learned from you guys there at Max Yield, I am able to now help others to make their gardens produce more with less money. So, thank you very much, Max Yield; YOU GUYS ROCK!!!!! Robert Smith Hi, Robert! Thank you so much for the awesome letter. We here at Maximum Yield are so happy that our magazine could help both you and your garden grow so much! It’s for fans like you that we all strive to put of the best articles, products and trivia in each issue. Best of luck in the future and remember, if you ever have any questions regarding any indoor gardening topic, please don’t hesitate to send them to editor@maximumyield.com and one of our resident experts will answer you.

Dear editor,

I absolutely love the vibrant colours and layout of this magazine. Reading the articles and browsing the pics inspires me to design my own hydroponics set-up and learn more about the products that would make it the most efficient. Keep all the great tips and tricks coming! Kristin We want to hear from you! Maximum Yield Publications Inc. Snail-mail: 2339 Delinea Place, Nanaimo, BC V9T 5L9 Email: editor@maximumyield.com Twitter: twitter.com/max_yield Facebook: facebook.com/MaximumYield


Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

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simon says

SSimion

mon

Hello Simon, I’m a new reader of Maximum Yield and need your input on a controversial question me and some of my fellow grower buddies have. Is it beneficial to monitor one’s runoff water after drenching one’s soil with nutrients? Some say you can see the chemistry between your plant and its nutrients more efficiently, but I have never seen the need for it because I always seem to get drastically false readings on my pH pen when testing the runoff—my plants always look fine if I just stick to controlling the pH level of my nutes before applying them to the soil. Thanks, Kyle S.

The subject of monitoring runoff water can definitely cause debate among growers. I will fan the flames by saying that waste water testing is exceptionally interesting and can be important information for a grower. In a recirculating system, the runoff needs to be monitored to ensure an adequate level of nutrition and that the nutrients are available to the plant (based on pH levels). For argument’s sake, I will also hazard a guess that you are growing in a peat-based medium. The first issue of growing in peat is the pH of the material. With a pH range usually hovering between four and five, using peat for growing plants requires the use of a calcium supplement to boost the pH to a useful range. In most cases, the manufacturer will add lime of some sort to buffer the pH up. This is the first reason for you to check your runoff. The buffering effect of the lime only works for a certain amount of time, especially with frequent watering. After this point, the pH of your medium will drift lower and lower. Knowing when the pH starts to drop is an important management tool, especially if you are going long periods without transplanting. Runoff pH can also be affected by the plants themselves. Plants have an internal pH regulating system and they can also affect the localized pH around the rhizosphere by releasing exudates to suit their needs. The interactions at the root zone can affect the pH of runoff. The last major reason that your runoff pH can fluctuate is the presence of biology in your medium. Microbes tend to affect their environment. If you have ruled out fertilizer, medium and plant interactions as causes of pH drift, it could be the microbiology. In a bacterial-based system, 12

Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

the pH will generally drift up. In a fungal-based system (which is more beneficial but far more difficult to manage), the pH will drift down. I would think that your point of inaccurate readings of the runoff water you have tested relates to one of the issues above. It is entirely possible for the pH of water leaving the medium to be much different than the solution you are top feeding to your plants. Remember to keep your testing equipment clean and calibrated to be on the safe side of accuracy. Given the way people like to over-apply fertilizer, another very important reason to test runoff is to see how much of your money is being wasted and if your plants are close to a nutrient absorption issue. Peat has a cation exchange rate, meaning it can retain certain types of nutrients. Once these exchange sites are saturated, the nutrients in solution can reach levels that can harm your plants. Assessing the runoff concentration can, in this case, help you stop over-fertilization and avoid damage to plants. It will also show you if high levels of soluble nutrient are draining through your medium and away from plant roots. The problem in assessing the salt level is that you do not know the specific elements that are causing the reading. In commercial operations, the readings are broken down into elements from either solution or tissue samples taken throughout the crop lifecycle. Through this, the grower can adjust nearly every aspect of their operation, from medium to fertilizer input. For the average home grower, these tests sometimes cost more than they are worth. In your case, when you look at your plants and they look healthy, that is the best observation possible.



MAX FACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Building Better Barley Canada faces a problem of adapting to the “new normal” of a warmer, drier climate. So, Scott Chang, a professor of soil science in the University of Alberta’s Department of Renewable Resources, teamed up with fellow crop scientist Anthony Anyia of Alberta Innovates to explore the genetic makeup of barley and how the grain crop can be made more efficient in its water use and less vulnerable to climate change. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

MAXFACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Cash for Tech Two southern Okanagan fruit farms are among six projects set to receive more than $200,000 in support from both the provincial and federal government. The funding is meant to help projects that are introducing new technology to British Columbia’s tree fruit industry, such as the apple and cherry grower’s innovation. (Source: am1150.ca)

Boeing Uses Potatoes to Test In-Flight Wi-Fi Wi-Fi is now is now an easy payment away for passengers, but it’s not exactly as reliable as the connection you get in your own living room. However, Boeing has employed an interesting tool to help sort out the in-flight Wi-Fi issues: potatoes. Apparently, water-logged tubers interact with electronic signal properties much like humans. So, Boeing filled the plane with sacks of spuds when testing how radio signals interacted with the plane’s electrical systems, and now the company is using them to test and tune wireless signals so a stronger signal can be received throughout the aircraft in the safest way possible. (Source: treehugger.com)

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MAX FACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Dietary Shifts Driving up Phosphorus Use Since the early 1960s, dietary changes have fuelled a sharp increase in the amount of mined phosphorus used to produce the food. According to a new study led by researchers at McGill University, rising meat consumption and total calorie intake between 1961 and 2007 underpinned a 38% increase in the world’s per capita phosphorus footprint. The findings underscore a significant challenge to efforts to sustainably manage the supply of mined phosphorus, a non-renewable resource widely used as fertilizer. “Reduced consumption of meat, and especially beef, in countries with large phosphorus footprints could put a big dent in demand for mined phosphorus since it takes many kilograms of feed, which is fertilized, to produce a kilogram of meat,” says lead author Geneviève Metson. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

Seasonal Award Foreign Agricultural Resource Management Service (FARMS) won the Ontario Fruit and Vegetable Growers Association Award of Merit this year for its contribution to the horticulture sector. The seasonal agricultural worker program was launched in the 1960s when a group of Jamaican workers arrived in Ontario to work on horticultural farms. FARMS was set up in 1987 to manage the administration of the program, including the logistics of getting workers to and from the country. About 20,000 workers currently come to Canada each year. (Source: betterfarming.com)

Helpful Ditches Scientists report that vegetated drainage ditches can help capture pesticide and nutrient loads in field runoff, giving farmers a low-cost alternative for managing agricultural pollutants and protecting natural resources. One study in a 160-foot section of a vegetated agricultural drainage ditch showed 61 percent of the atrazine and 87 percent of the lambda-cyhalothrin had transferred from the water to the ditch vegetation after only an hour of the test. At the end of the ditch, runoff pesticide concentrations were generally non-toxic to downstream aquatic fauna. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

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Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

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MAX FACTS

hydroponic news, tips and trivia

Studying Permafrost A combination of ground-penetrating radar, electrical resistance tomography, electromagnetic data and LiDAR airborne measurements are now used to see the different layers of permafrost soils, which store almost as much carbon as the rest of the world’s soils and about twice as much as is in the atmosphere. The goal is to help determine what will happen to this carbon as the climate changes. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

Potato Kudos The Prince Edward Island Potato Board launched a series of “Tater Talk” videos, featuring consumers talking about why they love PEI Potatoes. The potato industry is the single largest economic driver of the agriculture industry on Prince Edward Island, worth over one billion dollars to the Prince Edward Island economy each year. (Source: freshplaza.com)

Learning from the Best Human-made light-emitting devices like LEDs face the same reflection problems as fireflies’ lanterns (the organs on the bioluminescent insects’ abdomens that flash to attract mates). So, researchers from Canada, Belgium and France studied the structure of firefly lanterns. The scientists identified an unexpected pattern of jagged scales that enhanced the lanterns’ glow, and applied that knowledge to LED design to create an LED overlayer that mimicked the natural structure. The overlayer, which increased LED light extraction by up to 55 percent, could be easily tailored to existing diode designs. “The most important aspect of this work is that it shows how much we can learn by carefully observing nature,” says Annick Bay, a Ph.D. student who studies natural photonic structures. (Source: sciencedaily.com)

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT YOUR GUIDE TO THIS ISSUE’S

HOTTEST ITEMS Ask for them at your local indoor gardening store

SuperCloset Releases the SuperStar to Popular Demand SuperCloset recently released the SuperStar within its grow box suite of products. The SuperStar is a 60.96- by 60.96- by 167.64-cm grow box cabinet divided into two different growing chambers for both propagation and vegetative growth and flowering. The cloning chamber houses a 14-plant site SuperCloner and Germination Station and is powered by two 24-W T5 fluorescent bulbs, which is ideal for new plants. The flowering chamber holds up to 16 plants in two eight-plant site, 30.28-L reservoirs. The flowering chamber is powered by a 150-W full spectrum HPS lighting system. The lighting system is height adjustable as it is suspended by yo-yos. In addition, there is a carbon filter added for odour control and every other accessory and component imaginable is added to the system for the complete turnkey product experience. For more information, go to your local hydroponics store.

QuickStix from GeoPot No more time consuming tying and staking! QuickStix are the perfect tool for training plants such as tomatoes, fruits and vegetables for maximum crop production. Made from a pliable plastic and lig ht as a feather, the QuickStix innovative X design at either end, gives you the option of pushing branches apart or pulling them together quickly and easily. Using GeoPot’s new QuickStix, a gardener can push apart branches easily, so plants can have optimal exposure to the sunlight or pull weaker branches together to give them better stability by hooking them to stronger stalks. The new GeoPot QuickStix are available in 15.24-, 22.86- and 30.48-cm lengths. For more information, see your local hydroponics shop.

Grand Daddy Pad The Green Pad CO2 Generator is proud to announce the newest in our innovative line of humidity-activated CO2 pads for indoor gardens: the Grand Daddy Pad (GDP Green Pad). With four times the CO2 generating power as our original Green Pad, each GDP can reach over 1,000 ppm levels in an indoor garden area of over 24 m3 for up to two weeks. Our natural chemicals react to humidity or moisture to enrich your garden or propagation dome with beneficial carbon dioxide. If kept dry in the original packaging, they will still be effective in over a year. Tank users: keep a pack on hand for when your tanks run dry or to supplement your existing CO2 system to make those tanks last even longer. For more information or to order any of our innovative Green Pad CO2 products, visit your nearest indoor gardening shop.

Dutch Master Introduces 250-ml Sizes By popular demand, Dutch Master is introducing all new 250-ml size! We are so confident in the results that our Gold Range products achieve that we decided to make our Gold Range Foliar Spray and Tank Additive products in a smaller size for those that aren’t so sure or for those on a tighter budget. Our products are concentrated enough to go a long way, effective enough to see results fast and now smaller size is affordable enough for people to experience the results themselves! So, now you can encourage your customers to try the Dutch Master Gold Range and see just how good our products really are! For information, please visit the nearest hydroponics shop.

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Air Force Pro Linear Air Pumps by Sunlight Supply, Inc. Sunlight Supply, Inc is pleased to announce the release of Air Force Pro Linear Air Pumps. These Linear Air Pumps are made out of a solid aluminum housing and are perfect for growers who require high output and efficiency, simple maintenance and quiet operation. Made to the highest standards using quality components, Air Force Pro Linear Air Pumps will give you the reliability and performance you need to provide oxygen in reservoirs, fish farms, hydroponic systems and more! All Air Force Pro Linear Air Pumps are UL listed and backed with a 2-year limited warranty. Available in four different models: Air Force Pro-15 (19 LPM), Air Force Pro-40 (47 LPM), Air Force Pro-60 (68 LPM) and Air Force Pro-80 (86 LPM). Visit your nearest hydroponics store for more information.

New Extension Poles Added to the Gorilla Grow Tent’s Accessory Line The Gorilla Grow Tent line just got taller. Grow Tent extension poles in the 60.96-cm range are now available for sale and offered for all sizes in the product line. The 60.96-cm extensions will complement the 30.48-cm extensions that are currently shipping with each Gorilla Grow Tent and that allow a customer to increase the height of their tent from the standard height of 2.13 to 2.44 m. The 60.96-cm extension will allow a Gorilla Grow Tent customer the ability to go from the standard height of 2.13 to 2.74 m. Using both extensions together, the Gorilla Grow Tent customer can increase the height of their standard tent from 2.13 to 3.05 m. The new poles are priced accordingly to the size of the tents they complement. For more information, visit your local hydroponics store.

Operator Halide Plus Glasses Method Seven Optics—the company that brought you perfectly balanced colour, clarity and safety under HPS lights—introduces a Halide Plus lens, giving you balanced colour and protection while working under metal halide lights. The halide-tuned lens is a darksmoke colour with M7’s silver Plus coating, making these glasses the perfect crossover product between the growroom and the street. This product was developed in collaboration with Carl Zeiss Vision Labs and made in Italy, ensuring the best technology for clarity, focus and comfort. Visit an indoor gardening retail shop for more information.

Finisher Finisher is a super additive used to finish off your flowering cycle. This product was formulated to get the absolute most from your flowering plants. Like all Green Planet Nutrients, we start with the highest-quality raw materials blended in precisely the right way. Finisher is a must-have for the last three to six weeks of flowering. Most flowering additives are discontinued during the flush stage due to the high mineral salt content. Finisher, on the other hand, can be used all the way through the flowering stage including the flush stage. Finisher will pump up the weight and quality of the flowers, finishing the flowering stage in the best possible way, maximizing your efforts. For more information, visit your local indoor gardening shop.

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Sanctuary Soil and Feed’s new Hula Perfect Planter The innovative new Hula planter is a combined achievement and creation of Sanctuary Soil and Feed Inc. and EcoActive Surfaces. The Oxytitan coating is cutting-edge technology combined with the easy and portable Hula perfect planter. The new Hula, reusable and recyclable planter’s outer OxiTitan coating, electro-statically traps and then kills all types of bacteria, viruses and fungal spores through the production of reactive oxygen species, especially hydroxyl radicals (which are one of the most powerful oxidizers of organics). The Hula Perfect planter can be watered using any method: top-feed, flood or DTW, as well as hand watered. It provides a cleaner and healthier environment with the safe and transparent OxiTitan Antimicrobial Coating.

Galaxy Grow Amp Select-A-Watt Ballast by Sunlight Supply, Inc. Sunlight Supply®, Inc. is pleased to announce the arrival of the Galaxy® Grow Amp Select-A-Watt® Ballasts. Galaxy state-of-the-art HID ballasts are manufactured to provide today’s serious grower with maximum flexibility and performance. The Galaxy Select-A-Watt is the preferred electronic ballast on the market, offering the ability to run multiple wattage lamps or dim the highest wattage (defined by model). Galaxy ballasts have an incorporated staggered low current starting feature to avoid inrush problems when running multiple ballasts. They are available in 1,500; 1,000; 750; 600 and 400 W. The Galaxy brand name carries a strong reputation of reliability and performance. Grow Amp also features ultra-low RFI broadband emissions. They are compatible with all Sun System® brand reflectors. For more information, speak to an indoor garden equipment retailer.

New Gorilla Grow Tent Grow Tent Sizes The Gorilla Grow Tent line just got bigger and better. Tents sizes have expanded to include a 0.91 by 0.91 m, 1.22 by 1.22 m, 1.22 by 2.44 m, 2.44 by 2.44 m, 3.05 by 3.05 m, 3.66 by 3.66 m and 3.05 by 6.01 m. Engineered with a patent-pending adjustable extension system, Gorilla Grow Tents enable the indoor home gardener to increase the height and size of their grow tents up to 0.91 m higher than the standard height of 2.11 m. All standard features, including doublereinforced structural poles for no-stress accessory and component suspension, are found on all of the Gorilla Grow Tents. Call on your nearest indoor gardening shop to learn more.

New Additions to the Final Flush Line Some flavourful new additions have hit the Grotek Final Flush lineup. The essences of grapefruit and sour green apple have been bottled to provide added low-level carbohydrates with a time-tested flushing agent. These flavours now complement our blueberry, pina colada and strawberry Final Flush family. Smell these options out in your local hydroponic shops and expect even more excitement from Grotek in 2013. Visit a hydroponic store to learn more.

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Sun System HardCore HPS 600- and 1,000-W 120-V/240-V Ballasts Sunlight Supply®, Inc. is pleased to announce the arrival of the Sun System® Sun System® HardCore™ HPS 600- and 1,000-W 120-V/240-V Ballasts. This open ballast design is compact and runs cool! HardCore offers superior cooling capabilities while extending the longevity of the capacitor and igniter. Our HardCore ballast with dual input voltage easily switches from 120- to 240-V power! Simply unplug the detachable 2.44-m. 120-V power cord, turn the power plate around for 240-V power and plug in a 240-V power cord. Powder-coated steel housing with louvered venting and solid design helps protect internal components. Rubber feet reduce noise and vibration. Excellent ballast quality with hightemp (105°C) wire connections will provide years of trouble-free operation. Accepts all Sun System® lamp cords and is the only ETL-listed open ballast design on the market. Visit a hydroponics store to learn more.

OptiCal-Mg is new from Optimum Hydroponix M7 Photo Filter Method Seven Optics brings its patent-pending rendition technology to growroom photography. Introducing the M7 Photo Filter, which offers perfect colour balance under HPS lights for photography and video. Made from German mineral crystal glass, the same formulation found in Method Seven’s award-winning rendition glasses, photographers can now experience perfect daylight-balance photography shooting under HPS lights. Colour and details are vividly reveled and the strobe effect produced by some ballasts is also eliminated. Visit your local hydroponics shop for more information.

Unleash your plant’s potential with the newly launched OptiCal-Mg by Optimum Hydroponix®. This powerful calcium and magnesium liquid supplement with iron is the perfect addition to any plant nutrition program, whether you’re growing in soil, coco or other soilless media used for hydroponic cultivation. OptiCal-Mg is balanced just right to make calcium and magnesium readily available to maturing plants during the critical bud, flower and fruit development phase. Simply add OptiCal-Mg to your regular feeding program to optimize plant growth. Create bigger, heavier and more fragrant flowers and fruit. Invigorate overall health and development of root systems and plant structures. Also, use OptiCalMg to correct calcium or magnesium deficiencies at any time during a plant’s lifecycle. It can be used with all quality plant fertilizers. Available 1-, 4- and 20-L formats. For more information, see a hydroponic retailer.

Liquid W-8 Liquid W-8 is an excellent carbohydrate supplement that provides an added energy source for your plants, giving you huge impressive flowers and fruits. Beneficial carb sources support both your plant directly and act as a food source for the microbial life in the root zone. Derived from organic, non-sulphured molasses, Liquid W-8 is an extremely cost-effective additive that enhances energy and stimulates growth. This truly unique formula has the most complete blend of simple and complex carbohydrates on the market today. Green Planet Nutrients starts with the finest raw ingredients to ensure the highest-quality finished product. Click on the QR code on the bottle to see the video related to this product. Visit an indoor gardening store for more info.

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Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

27


water

orries W Water Quality Issues and How to Deal with Them

by Dr. Lynette Morgan

If your water is not right your plants won’t reach their full potential—Dr. Lynette Morgan takes you through everything you need to know about your water supply in order to give your garden its best chance… Water worries don’t always get much consideration from new growers as they enthusiastically set up their first hydroponic system. After all, water from the tap—which is sparkling clear and safe to drink—must be fine for plants as well, right? Many believe this to be the case, but it’s often treated municipal water that causes the most problems for hydroponic growers––and many gardeners might not even be aware of the problem. Pure water is actually a rather rare occurrence—the water we drink and irrigate our plants with is not usually just H2O, but a solution containing a wide range of minerals, dissolved gases, organic matter, pathogens, dust and chemicals. Many common substances dissolved in or carried by water are harmless to plants, such as the calcium and magnesium present in hard water sources. Other contaminants, however—which might not pose any problems at all in human drinking water—can create havoc in a carefully balanced hydroponic system and with sensitive plants.

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“Fortunately, most water worries are relatively easy to treat with a little knowledge and some modern technology.”

How do we find out about our water?

Fortunately, most water worries are relatively easy to treat with a little knowledge and some modern technology. Knowing exactly what you are dealing with is vitally important, however, as some water treatment options can be more toxic to plants than the water issue being treated. A water analysis or report is always the best place to start if water quality issues are suspected—municipal water suppliers should be able to provide customers with a full water report, which will include a mineral analysis as well as listing water treatment additives, such as chlorine or other chemicals, that could be present. For those using other water supplies—such as groundwater, river or dam water—obtaining a water analysis is relatively easy and all that is required is to send a sample off to a testing lab. While extremely useful, water reports might not cover all your potential problems—but they’ll usually give you a fairly good indication of where any major issues lie with your water supply.

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water worries

1.

Water quality issue number one: hard water and high alkalinity

This is probably the most common water quality issue dealt with by hydroponic growers worldwide, even those using treated city water. Groundwater might be hard—as water from rivers, dams and city water supplies can be—although rainwater in unpolluted areas is usually considered low-mineral, or soft. Municipal water supplies across the country range from very hard to soft, depending on where the individual city water supply is taken from. Hard water has a high mineral content—usually originating from magnesium, calcium carbonate, bicarbonate or calcium sulphate— which can cause hard white lime scale to build up on surfaces and growing equipment. Hard water might also have high alkalinity and pH levels, meaning that lots of acid is required to lower the pH in hydroponic systems to ideal levels and maintain it there. A high alkalinity level would be considered to be greater than 300 milliliters per liter of calcium carbonate and a low alkalinity level less than 100 milligrams per liter. While hard water sources do contain useful minerals—calcium and magnesium mostly—they can upset the balance of the nutrient solution and make other ions less available for plant uptake. Large-scale commercial growers can counter these problems by adjusting their nutrient formulations to take the levels of calcium and magnesium into account and by pre-acidifying hard water before it is used to make up nutrient solutions or to top up reservoirs. The acid used for this purpose is usually either nitric or phosphoric or a 50/50 mixture of the two, the reason being that acids add minerals to the water or nutrient solution and the combination of nitrogen and phosphorus from these acids can be adjusted for in the nutrient formulation as both are taken up by plants at relatively high levels. This pre-acidification of the

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water means that less acid is then required in the system to keep the pH down to optimal levels. Smaller-scale growers also have the option of using one of the many excellent hard-water nutrient products on the market. These hard-water nutrients are specifically designed to deal with the effect of hard and alkaline water on pH levels and usually incorporate the ammonium form of nitrogen (NH4) to keep pH levels down. Hard water formulations also assist in keeping macronutrients in balance when using a water source that already contains levels of plant-usable elements like calcium and magnesium. Some growers have made the mistake of using household water softening units to deal with the problem of a hard water source. Unfortunately, while these are fine for softening water for drinking and home use, they usually incorporate a process that adds sodium chloride to the water. Sodium is an issue for hydroponic systems and is an unwanted element with the potential to cause plant damage, so use of these water softeners for hydroponic water supplies should be avoided.

Water quality issue number two: unwanted minerals, sodium

2.

Water supplies will all carry some mineral content unless the water has been through a distillation or reverse osmosis process to remove it. Groundwater and city water tend to be highest in mineral content—as the minerals leach from the surrounding soil into the water— and rainwater the lowest. The most commonly occurring minerals in water supplies are calcium and magnesium, which are not problematic for hydroponics provided they are not present at excessively high levels. Other common elements are sodium and trace minerals, which can occur at varying levels in different water supplies. Sodium levels in excess of 2,000 ppm have been found in some inland well water in arid regions, although most well water sources don’t pose such an extreme problem. Sodium contamination usually occurs from common salt—sodium chloride—which is present to varying degrees in most


soils and might also be present from salty sea spray, salt water penetration of wells or from sources deliberately added during water softening processes. Sodium is not taken up by plants to any large degree, so it can end up accumulating in hydroponic systems (more so in recirculating systems) and displacing other elements. Trace elements in water supplies—such as copper, boron, zinc and iron—might also sometimes occur at high levels. While lower levels of trace elements can be adjusted for in nutrient formulations, higher levels often need reverse osmosis treatment or dilution with a lower-mineral water source to keep these minerals below toxic levels. Some hydroponic crops, such as tomatoes, are far more tolerant of high levels of sodium than other more sensitive crops like lettuce, so this can be taken into account when deciding whether or not a salty water source needs treatment. For moderate levels of sodium, growers can opt to avoid recirculating the nutrient—thus preventing sodium or other unwanted elements accumulating over time. In this case avoiding recirculating systems such as NFT set-ups in favour of media-based drain to waste-type set-ups is often enough to avoid excessive sodium buildup.

Water quality issue number three: water treatment chemicals

3.

Many city water sources are perfectly acceptable for soilless growers and hydroponic systems and can be used with no adjustment or treatment. However, water treatment options used by city water suppliers change over time and with advancing technology. In the past the main concern was chlorine in city water supplies. Chlorine is a disinfecting agent that destroys bacteria and human pathogens and residual chlorine can usually be detected by smell in a water source. High levels of chlorine can be toxic to sensitive plants—although chlorine is a chemical that rapidly dissipates into the air and it can easily be removed by aerating the water or just letting the water sit or age for a few days before use. While chlorination of water supplies was relatively easy for hydro growers to deal with, city water treatment plants are now moving more frequently toward the use of other methods for treating

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water worries

operations use untreated water sources with few problems, but in some areas pathogen contamination can be an issue. Zoosporic pathogenic fungi such as pythium and bacteria can survive and be distributed in water, although these can

“While it is possible to treat water sources with chemicals such as bleach (chlorine) or hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), this can be a risky process.”

drinking water. Scientists discovered that some human pathogens are resistant to chlorine, so water safety regulations had to change and alternative disinfection methods came into more frequent use. These days water might still be chlorinated, but an increasing number of city water suppliers have switched to the use of ozone, UV light, chloramines and chlorine dioxide as methods of treatment. While many of these methods are not a problem for hydroponic and soilless growers, the use of chloramines and other chemicals by many city water treatment plants can pose a problem for plant life where high levels are regularly introduced into water supplies. Chloramines are much more persistent than chlorine and take a lot longer to dissipate from treated water, which means they can build up in hydroponic systems and cause plant damage. This damage is very difficult to diagnose—as it looks similar to many root rot pathogens—and growers aren’t usually aware of what is actually causing the problem. Some plants are also naturally much more sensitive to chloramines than others, so determining levels of toxicity has been difficult. Hydroponic growers who have concerns about the use of chloramines in their city water supply can treat their water with specifically designed activated carbon filters or by using dechloraminating chemical or water conditioners, which are sold by the aquarium trade to treat the water in fish tanks. The chloramine carbon filters must be of the correct type, with a high-quality granular activated carbon that allows for the long contact time required for chloramine removal. Growing systems that utilize substrates such as coco are a safer option than soilless culture or recirculating systems when water treatment chemicals are suspected to be a problem—these natural substrates provide a buffering capacity much like soil does and can deactivate some of the treatment chemicals contained in the water supply.

Water quality issue number four: grubby water & pathogens

4.

Generally, city water supplies are filtered to remove organic matter and treated to kill any microbial life, which includes human and plant pathogens. However, other water sources—like wells, rivers, dams and rainwater— can harbour both organic matter and potentially damaging plant pathogen spores. Many large commercial hydroponic

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be relatively easily cleaned up by the grower before they can pose any threat. The safest options are UV, ozone and slow sand filtration, as these won’t leave chemical residues, which could harm young sensitive root systems. Small UV treatment and filtration systems such as those used in fish ponds and aquariums are suitable for treating water for hydroponic use and will kill plant pathogens and algae. These are best used for treating water only, however—not nutrient solutions, as UV radiation can make some nutrients unavailable for plant uptake. While it is possible to treat water sources with chemicals such as bleach (chlorine) or hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), this can be a risky process. Levels of these sanitizer chemicals high enough to kill plant pathogens will certainly damage young or sensitive plants unless the chemicals are deactivated or removed before being used to make up a hydroponic nutrient solution. H2O2 is deactivated when it reacts with organic matter in the water and chlorine will dissipate over time—particularly if the water is aerated—but determining when these active chemicals have reached levels low enough to be safe for plants is difficult. There are test strips sold through aquarium suppliers that might help, but it’s usually an easier option to rely on safer methods of water treatment for pathogen control. Good-quality water is vital to the success of any hydroponic system and growers today have a wide range of tools to assess their own water supply and carry out any treatment that is required. Investing in high-quality water is an essential step in any new hydroponic set-up and will help prevent any number of serious problems down the road.



Cutting Precision Ease With

How to properly take babies from your MILC Cloning your MILC (mother I’d like to clone) is a fairly simple process; however, if done sloppily, in haste or without some experience, it can result in weak, diseaseprone offspring. If taken with care and patience, the cuttings will grow into mature, healthy plants. When propagating in an aeroponic cloning machine, the stems will be in their own little environmental heaven, constantly receiving water and air, but virtually no light. So you want to prepare them by caring for your motherplant—you are, after all, making replicas of her genetics, so you want the best. Once you’re ready to take cuttings—given the MILC is at least two months old and in optimal health—get your very sterile tools, rooting gel and system ready (or whatever medium you’ve chosen to produce the clones). But first, a few quick tips: • Three to four days before taking cuttings, heavily water (just pH-adjusted water without fertilizers or other additives) your MILC to help remove nitrogen. By decreasing the nitrogen in the motherplant, you help her babies root faster. • Choose a sharp, clean, thin-bladed knife, razor or pair of scissors to cut the stems. Using dull, blunt tools increases the potential for damaging the plant tissue during cuttings, and therefore increases the risk of disease. • If taking cuttings from more than one MILC,

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and

by Karen Wilkinson


sterilize the blade or scissors between plants to decrease any potential cross contamination (disease, fungus or viruses). When ready, choose a stem with at least one leaf node that’s about 5- to 10-cm long, and relatively new (at least from the current season). Cut about 2.5 cm beneath the node. Some people swear by the 45° angle rule, while others say it doesn’t matter as long as the cut is clean; whatever works best for you. Remove any excessive, large leaves off but don’t clip all of them. Leave some, and if needed, cut leaves in half that may take energy away from root growth. Immediately after taking the cutting, dip the stem in rooting gel. Take extra precautions to pour the gel into a separate container; never dip directly into the rooting gel container as they may cause cross contamination. Though some swear by the 60 second rule, the length of time the stem stays in the gel is inconsequential—as long as it gets some, you’re good to go. When placing the cutting into the growing medium, make sure at least one inch of the stem is below the surface. Once you’re done taking cuttings and they are properly inserted into your unit, be sure to promptly plug in your machine to begin the process. Be clean, be thorough, be patient and above all, be kind to your motherplant—she’s the provider in this equation and will only produce what she already embodies. Happy cloning! MY

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Boosting the

Bloom by Lee McCall

Vigorous rooted cuttings can be encouraged to evolve into powerhouse adolescents with strong structure and flawless foliage. This article will take us to the next level… 36

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Rooted cuttings that have grown into strong adolescents can transition (stress-free) into flowering, supplemented with only the highest-quality nutritional elements engineered to stimulate overall fruit or flower mass. The end result, if carried out correctly, should be strong insect- and disease-free plants that possess healthy, dense foliage and plenty of potential fruit sites, and that will eventually yield heavy, copious harvests of high-quality, prime-grade produce.

“Depending on the style of system and method implemented, transplanting might...be completely unnecessary.”

Transition The initial transition from vegetative growth into flowering might induce stress on certain varietals and hybrids. Growroom factors such as ventilation, carbon dioxide enrichment and lighting can influence various growth patterns as well. Flowering is often autonomous in many different crops, though, and these types might not shock from light deprivation, transplanting or switching base nutrients from grow formulas to those intended for flowering, fruiting and blooming. Initial root health is always a major contributing factor to what will be produced as a final product. Ensuring there is plenty of room for root expansion once a plant is induced into the flowering phase is imperative for allowing it to grow and mature, as bigger roots are needed to support the mass quantities of blooms and foliage that are produced during crop flowering cycles. If root growth is restricted, growth is stunted and yield could ultimately suffer. Growers using container gardening techniques with soil, coco or soilless mixes might benefit from conducting the initial (seedling or cutting) vegetative growth cycle in smaller volume containers (1.89 to 3.79 L), and later upgrading to larger ones as needed for mature (three to eight weeks or more) plants that become root bound. Once a plant is root or pot bound, overall growth is slowed dramatically. A variety of aeration containers are available in both fabric and injection moulded types to prevent root circling, the main cause of root binding. These containers promote feeder root growth through root pruning, a technique that uses air to singe off root tips as they pierce through the fabric walls or into open pockets in the injection moulded containers. As the root tips die off from the air, the resulting effect is dramatic feeder root stimulation. This technique is similar to topping and cropping plants in order to achieve more tops and fruiting sites. Transplanting can be performed the same day that the crop is induced into flowering, or delayed so that the plant has time to adjust and settle into its new home prior to beginning the bloom phase. Hydroponic growers making effective use of grow blocks, hydroton, silica rock or PET-1 as their choice of grow

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37


Boosting the Bloom

medium could achieve much larger plants and yields with much less grow medium in comparison to soil or soilless grow substrates. Depending on the style of system and method implemented, transplanting might also be completely unnecessary. For example, many DWC (deep-water-culture) and aeroponic systems are engineered to harbour small and large (2-m or more) plants without having to transplant at all, due to selfcontained reservoirs able to hold adequate amounts of nutrient solution over a given period of time. In drip irrigation and the occasional flood-and-drain system, 10- and 15-cm grow blocks will usually accumulate prolific root masses over the course of a two to four week veg cycle. These root bound blocks can be placed on grow slabs, coco coir mats or PET-1 mats in order to allow the roots extra room for growth and to provide simultaneous protection from light and direct air. Mesh-bottom containers and net pots full of other grow mediums can also be placed on rooting mats in order to promote the same effect as grow blocks. A mycorrhizal inoculant or a compost tea heavy in beneficial bacteria, nematodes and protozoa should be incorporated in order to promote rapid root growth and healthy disease-free foliage and to deter transplant shock. Granular forms of mycorrhizae are recommended for soil, coco and soilless container gardening applications, and powder forms are available for hydroponic systems. Always use a dechlorinator and a sediment filter on the water source to

preserve the activity and concentration of all microbial inoculants and teas. Tap water might not render these live additives completely useless, but the chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals found in municipal water supplies will definitely ensure the possibility that the additive or inoculants being utilized might not perform to their fullest potential. Finally, shower the garden with a high-quality seaweed (Ascophyllum nodosum) supplement when inducing the switch from veg into bloom. This luxuriant sea plant has been known to encourage fruit site development and bud sets in many crops—compared to controls without treatment—when first introduced into a flowering regimen. Many plants will triple in size once set into flowering as long as they are given desirable conditions and adequate space for the roots and foliage to grow into.

Bulking with phosphorus and potassium In weeks two through eight of the flowering stage, it is important to be consistent and ensure that the crop does not fall victim to pest and mildew infesta-

“Organic options can be derived from raw materials like sugar cane, fruit extracts, molasses or malt.” 38

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tions, nutrient overdoses or deficiencies as their root masses grow. Any one of these important factors—along with others—could be responsible for the failure of what might have been a bumper crop. Bloom-boosting products that incorporate plenty of L-amino acids and high-to-low ratios of phosphorous and potassium to nitrogen will fuel weight gain and aroma in blooms and stimulate sugar production in leaf tissue. Carb-loading is always beneficial during heavy fruiting phases. For growers using beneficial inoculants, these simple and complex sugars boost the levels of microbiological activity in the rhizosphere as they act as a food source for the micro-organisms. In sterile hydroponic applications, carbohydrates will enhance flesh density of the produce grown and encourage flavonoids, the metabolites in plants responsible for colouration that also act as antioxidants. Carbs are found in many different natural and synthetically processed forms. Organic options can be derived from raw materials like sugar cane, fruit extracts, molasses or malt. Synthetically treated—but not necessarily inorganic—products comprised from deoxyribose, lyxose, ribose, xylulose and xylose are some of my favourite products for bulking up produce and adding weight to the end result. Super-concentrated synthetic phosphorus and potassium boosting powder additives are also very popular for incorporating into the feeding during the last weeks before harvest. High percentages of phosphorous and potassium, such as a 0-50-30 mix, will encourage ripening and last minute bulking in flowers, fruits and vegetables. These additives trick the plant (so to speak) by overdosing its system with high amounts of phosphorus and potassium. This effect encourages early flower set when used in the transition weeks of the flowering stage and stimulates essential oil production in the last weeks. Many of these formulas are extremely concentrated, sometimes calling for as little as 5 ml per 18.93 L of nutrient solution. Organic guano-based additives will provide similar effects with lower concentrations of N-P-K, an option that

“High percentages of phosphorous and potassium, such as a 0-50-30 mix, will encourage ripening and last minute bulking in flowers, fruits and vegetables.” might appeal to those who wish to garden completely free of synthetic additives and chemicals. In terms of atmospheric conditions, make sure that there is always plenty of fresh air exchange and control over intake and exhaust of the growing space: the ability to control these factors allows the grower complete automation for fine-tuning crop production. CO2 enrichment is also always a plus if available. Whether using compressed gas in bottles or propane/natural gas generators, aim for approximately 1,500 ppm around the plants. Even inducing these conditions in the garden just once a day will benefit your crop— CO2 enrichment will generally increase factors such as growth and overall weight by upwards of 15 percent. And although not mandatory to achieve incredible results, the introduction of CO2 never hurt anything if properly set up and utilized. In conjunction with simple routine maintenance—like regularly replacing grow lamps, keeping the growroom clean and above all being consistent—the information found here should prove to be a useful reference to increase your ability to execute bumper crop production. Moving forward, always conduct controlled experiments with plenty of documentation so that all influential factors can be recorded to determine any gain or losses from new techniques or products thrown into the mix. The information you record over the years as you learn from your mistakes and figure out what works and what’s a waste of time and money will be your most important tool as a grower—and one you might just be asked to pass down to your kids or grandkids one day!

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NUTRIENTSymptoms Deficiency

Monitor plants closely for symptoms of nutrient deficiency. These symptoms can provide a valuable forewarning of serious problems within the growing system. Be aware that there are many factors that cause nutrient deficiency symptoms in a plant. The nutrient itself might not be the cause. Deficiency symptoms are grouped into several categories:

1. Stunting of growth: As all essential nutrients are simultaneously required for healthy growth, this symptom can be attributed to a deficiency in any one or more of them.

2. Chlorosis and interveinal chlorosis: Chlorosis can result in the whole plant or leaf turning light green or yellow. It can also be more localized. For example, yellowing of the veins themselves or between the veins (interveinal chlorosis). Chlorosis occurs due to plants being deficient in elements required for photosynthesis or chlorophyll production. purple petiole

interveinal chlorsis

nectrotic spot

axillary bud

midrib

petiole

vein

apex (or tip)

left margin

Fig 2 Simplified illustration of external leaf sturcture.

3. Purple/red discoloration: This often occurs on stems or along leaf petioles, veins or margins. It occurs due to abnormal levels of anthocyanin that accumulates when plants are stressed. These symptoms can also be caused by physical stresses such as cold, drought and disease.

4. Necrosis: Generally happens in the later stages of deficiency where the affected plant part becomes stressed to the point that it becomes brown and dies.

5. Further symptoms include: • poor quality (or few) buds, flowers or fruit • poor root development • distorted leaves (i.e. cupped or twisted)

Old or young growth? chlorosis of veins

tip burn chlorosis of margin

Fig 1 Some common leaf abnormalities resulting from nutrient deficiencies.

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A key indicator for identifying nutrient deficiency is whether the symptoms are occurring in older growth, younger growth or both. Mobile elements are able to move out of older leaves

by Andrew Taylor

and into younger plant parts when a deficiency is present. Hence the symptoms usually occur first in the older (usually lower) leaves. Mobile elements include N, P, K and Mg. In contrast, immobile nutrients are not able to move quickly from one plant part to another. Therefore, deficiency symptoms are initially most obvious in younger growth (usually higher up the plant). Immobile nutrients include Ca, S, Fe, Cu, Mn, Zn and B. See chart 1 for more information.

What causes deficiency symptoms? The appearance of foliar deficiency symptoms often causes inexperienced growers to conclude that the nutrient solution is deficient in a particular element. However, if a complete nutrient formulation is being used, check the following before settling on this conclusion: • insufficient EC or feed frequency • in recirculating hydroponic systems, the nutrient is discarded too infrequently • inappropriate nutrient pH (causes certain nutrient elements to become unavailable for uptake) • excessive humidity (hinders the distribution of nutrient throughout the plant) • signs of pests or diseases (their presence can produce symptoms that are similar in appearance to nutrient deficiency symptoms)


CHART 1

Diagnostic Flow-Chart For Common Nutrient Deficiency Symptons

Deficiency Symptoms Old Leaves Affected

Young Leaves Affected

- Terminal buds remain alive but chlorotic (ie. yellow) or wilted without necrotic (i.e. dead) spots

- Effects are mostly generalized over whole plant - Lower leaves dry up and die

- Terminal buds die. Distortion and necrosis (ie. dying of young leaves)

Effects mostly localized: - Mottling (ie. blotches) or cholosis - Lower leaves do not dry up but become mottled or chlorotic - Leaf margins cupped or tucked

Boron (B)

Calcium (Ca)

- Young leaves light green at bases, die back from base - Twisted leaves

- Young leaves hooked then die back at tips and margins

Phosphorus (P) - Dark green foliage; red/purple colours appear - Lower leaves yellow/drying to dark green - Stalks become short and slender

Nitrogen (N) - Light green foliage - Lower leaves yellow/drying/brown - Stalks become short and slender

Zinc (Zn)

Copper (Cu) - Young leaves wilted, without cholorosis - Weak stem tip

- Young leaves not wilted - Chlorosis

- Nercrotic spots (large and general) eventually involving veins - Thick leaves - Short stalks

Magnesium (Mg)

Manganese (Mn)

- Mottling or chlorosis with yellow around margins and interveinal chlorosis - Necrotic brown spots

No necrotic spots

- Small nercotic spots - Veins remain green

Potassium (K)

- Mottled or chlorotic dull grey-green leaves - Small necrotic spots between veins or near leaf tips and margins - Slender stalks

NOTES

Iron (Fe)

Sulfur (S)

Veins remain green

Veins become chlorotic

Deficiency symptoms observed under field conditions often appear different than ideal text book examples. Diagnosis is often difficult even to the most experienced eyes. Some elements produce similar symptoms and several deficiencies can occur at the same time. Symptoms can also be easily confused with those caused by pests, diseases, under watering and genetic abnormalities. Early detection is important because deficiency symptoms are often more unique and easier to distinguish in the early stages. Yield loss can also be potentially avoided. Early detection also prompts the grower to check for other possible causes such as excessive humidity and poor EC and pH control.

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Say What? Master the following 29 hydro words and phrases to help you master your garden! Aeration

A condition where plenty of oxygen is present.

Algae

Plant-like micro-organisms that grow where there is plenty of water and some light.

Callus

Cation Exchange Capacity (Cec)

A measure of the ability of the growing medium to adsorb exchangeable cations that are available to the plant and that will resist the leaching nutrients during watering.

Cloning

A mass of cells that forms at the bottom of the cut end of a stem that starts growing roots.

The asexual propagation of a plant; cuttings or grafts are taken from a motherplant to reproduce a plant identical to the motherplant.

Cation

Decisiemens per metre (dS/m)

An ion in the root environment that has a positive charge.

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A unit of measure for EC.


Drip irrigation

A method of watering plants where water is applied slowly as it drops onto the growth medium.

Ebb-and-flow hydroponics

A hydration system that works by flooding the media containing the plant roots. The media sits in a reservoir of water and nutrient supply for a specified period of time. The water and nutrient supply is then drained. Draining allows the roots to access needed oxygen for maximum growth.

Effluent

Liquid or solution that flows out of a media.

Electric Conductivity (EC)

A measure of the electrical resistance of a nutrient solution or media; used to determine the level of ions.

Etiolation

The process of growing the plant in total darkness for a period of time.

Floating hydroponic systems

Where plants grow and complete their lifecycle on top of water with nutrients.

Fungal

A disease-causing micro-organism.

Germinate

A process where seeds start growing by producing leaves and roots.

Hydroponic

NFT hydroponic systems

A technique for growing plants hydroponically in which the plant roots are suspended in a slow-moving stream of nutrient solution.

Parthenocarpic

A plant that can produce fruits without pollination.

pH

The negative logarithm of hydrogen ion concentration to the base 10. It is a value between one and 14.

ppm

Parts per million.

Propagation

The process of multiplying plants either sexually or asexually. Sexual propagation of plants uses a seed to reproduce the plant. Asexual propagation uses a graft or cutting to reproduce plants. Asexual reproduction produces plants that are identical to the motherplant. Asexual propagation is also known as cloning.

Recycled and reusable watering systems Where water is collected, stored, cleaned and recirculated in order to water plants.

Soilless media

Any plant growing media other than soil.

Sterile

Clean; free from any kind of micro-organisms.

Sub-irrigation systems

A method of growing plants using water and nutrients only; roots are not housed in soil or any type of soilless media.

A method of supplying water to plant roots under the roots.

Inert

A growing medium that has aluminum iron magnesium silicate. It is lightweight and highly porous.

Having no chemical or biological action or value.

Vermiculite

Leach out

Using water to wash out salts and other material from the growth media. Leaching is also used to adjust pH, EC and CEC to desirable levels.

Leachate

Solution that drains from the growing media.

This hydro glossary was compiled by the Dr. P Team at steadyGROWpro: Bill DeBoer (lab technician), Todd Trobaugh (education specialist), Kelvin Frye (national sales manager) and, of course, Dr. Pawan Srivastava (horticulture scientist).

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A

by Donald Lester

Natural Solution Yu c ca We t t i ng Ag e n ts

They improve the effectiveness of pesticides, increase nutrient uptake and help distribute water more evenly in hydrophobic substrates. Saponin-based products are the newest trend in horticulture, plus they’re biodegradable, organic and renewable. News about water pollution and lingering droughts has brought the subject of water conservation into the forefront of resource management discussions lately, especially in the field of agriculture. A number of water-saving products have emerged on the market to address these concerns. Although many of these products use synthetic chemical ingredients to manage water, there are organic alternatives available as well. Arguably the most popular type of water-saving bio-based products is saponin or yucca extract products.

What are saponins? Saponins are natural detergents found in a variety of plant species, especially certain desert plants. Some saponins are derived from marine animals, but the bulk come from plants (and some herbs), with names that indicate their foaming properties—such as soapwort, soaproot, soapbark and soapberry. Commercial saponins are extracted mainly from the desert plants Yucca schidigera and Quillaja saponaria. Quillaja bark has been used as a shampoo in Chile for hundreds of years.

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Yucca is native to the Mojave and Sonoran deserts of California, Baja California, southern Nevada and western Arizona. Its needle-sharp tips gave the plant the name Spanish bayonet. The Yucca root contains high levels of saponin, which Native Americans used for centuries to make soap and shampoo. Native Americans washed their hair with Yucca to fight dandruff and hair loss and they also used the flowers and fruits for food; the black seeds were dried and ground into flour, while the leaf fibres were used to weave cloth and to make rope and sandals. The soapy characteristics of saponins make them ideal for use as spray


adjuvants (to make pesticides work better) or as additives to help spray solutions stick and spread onto leaf surfaces for better coverage and increased nutrient uptake. An additional characteristic of saponinbased materials is that they help distribute water more evenly in hydrophobic or hardto-wet substrates. For this reason potting soil manufacturers are starting to add saponin-based materials to their bulk soils and potting mixes. Rates of use vary, depending upon the composition of the media. For example, soil media with a high percentage of peat or wood bark will require more saponin-containing product than a standard potting soil. In hydroponic systems, coconut coir is hard to keep wet, and some manufacturers use up to three times the recommended label rates with no reported ill effects to seedlings.

Environmentally friendly Because saponins are derived from cactus and other desert plants, they are typically certified as organic products and are generally easy to extract using simple, low-cost cold-press methods, without the need for harsh or toxic synthetic chemicals. Since they mostly come from plants they are considered green, natural and renewable, as well as biodegradable. Saponins come in either powdered or liquid formulations for convenient use, making them suitable for an array of applications, and phytotoxicity—or plant burn—is not known to occur when saponins are used as foliar sprays.

Saponin uses Saponins are found in many plants, but they get their name from the soapwort plant (Saponaria), the root of which was used historically as a soap (the Latin word sapo means soap). Saponins are one of a group of glucosides found in many plant species with known foaming properties when mixed with water. Saponins reduce the surface tension of water, allowing the formation of small, stable bubbles. The amount of foam created by saponins shaken in a jar of water is a good indication of the amount of saponins present in a solution. As a consequence of their surface-active properties, saponins are excellent The soapy characteristics foaming agents, of saponins make them ideal forming very for use as spray adjuvants (to stable foams. Saponins make pesticides work better) have been or as additives to help spray used in modsolutions stick and spread ern times in the manufacture onto leaf surfaces for better of fire extinguisher coverage and increased foam, toothpaste, nutrient uptake.” shampoos, liquid soaps

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a natural solution

and cosmetics, and to increase the foaming qualities of beer and soft drinks—yucca and quillaja extracts are used in beverages such as root beer to provide the foamy head. Because of their surfactant properties, saponins are also used industrially in mining and ore separation, in preparation of emulsions for photographic films and extensively in cosmetics products like lipstick and shampoo, where their antifungal and antibacterial properties are important in addition to their emollient effects. Yucca has also been used to treat headaches, bleeding, gonorrhea, arthritis and rheumatism, among other maladies. Besides being used in agricultural and health-related products, saponins are used as a natural deodorizer or odour reducer in several pet products, feeds and litters. Saponin-based mild detergents are also used in diverse areas of research—in fact, they even are used by the British Museum to gently clean ancient manuscripts and artifacts.

Why would you ever use a synthetic, chemically based product when you could use a biodegradable, organic, renewable counterpart containing natural saponins?”

Fish poison Most saponins readily dissolve in water and are poisonous to fish. Fish absorb saponins directly into their bloodstream through the gills, where a toxin acts on their respiratory organs without affecting their edibility. Saponins also cause the breakdown of red blood cells in fish, helping the toxin to spread quickly. Even though the effects of the poison are powerful, they are not usually fatal, and fish that are washed with or swim through untainted water will soon revive without any lasting ill effects. Because of this phenomenon, fishermen use saponins to gather the stunned fish quickly as they float to the surface.

Because saponins are toxic to fish, these types of products are not recommended for use in or around aquaponic systems where fish and plants are grown together, but saponinbased products are still valuable in greenhouses for foliar applications and for the treatment of soil mixes.

Heat stress Saponins are believed to be responsible for heat and drought resistance (and lower stress under these conditions) in cactus. Anecdotal evidence certainly suggests that saponins help plants deal with heat stress. One customer related a story to me where he applied a yucca-based saponin product to a steep south-facing slope to help his ornamental plants cope with the direct sun and the summer heat. Coincidentally, a wildfire occurred a few days after his application and moved up the hillside toward his plantings. Aerial tankers successfully dropped fire retardant to stop the flames, but the intense heat wilted all of the plants in the area. Only the saponin-treated plants withstood the intense heat and showed no wilting or signs of heat stress.

Consider using yucca saponins Yucca and saponin-based products are becoming more commonplace in the market. They are often employed as adjuvants, surfactants or ‘spreader and sticker’ additives for spray solutions, as anti-stress products in hot, dry weather conditions and as wetting agents for packaged soils and potting mixes, among many other things. It might be time for you to consider using one of these valuable products: after all, why would you ever use a synthetic, chemically based product when you could use a biodegradable, organic, renewable counterpart containing natural saponins?

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Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013



A Root Primer

by Matt LeBannister Beneath every great plant there’s a healthy root system. Matt LeBannister takes you through the basic information you’ll need to know to maintain root health in your garden…

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Every system in a plant must be healthy if the plant is to reach its maximum potential—we naturally tend to focus on the upper part of the plant because it’s more visible, but the root system is just as vital to a plant’s overall health. Roots take up water and nutrients and anchor the plant to the medium. Without healthy roots, plants will be stunted and prone to disease—stems will be weak and might break easily, flowers won’t bloom and fruit won’t set. Without root care, seedlings and cuttings will never root properly or take to the medium. There are guidelines every gardener can follow to promote root health and products and techniques available that can improve root growth. Roots are a vital link in the chain of plant systems and chains are only as strong as their weakest link—keep your roots healthy and you’ll keep the chain strong.


When a seed germinates, a single root known as the taproot breaks out of the seed and begins its search for nutrients and water. During this stage of root and plant development, the roots require a certain level of care for them to thrive. The health of the roots is crucial at this stage of growth because the taproot is very small and delicate. Seedling roots prefer warmer temperatures than the roots of mature plants. Root growth will increase dramatically if you can maintain the root zone temperature at 24 to 27°C and keep the air temperature around six to eight degrees cooler. If root zone temperatures exceed 27°C, the roots can dry out or become prone to diseases like root rot or damping off. Place your seedling trays on a seedling heating mat equipped with a thermostat—these can be purchased at any indoor gardening supply store. There are some fairly common reasons behind most problems you might encounter with your seedling roots. Overwatering is a big concern as seedlings do not yet have the ability to absorb much water and under watering can also become a problem since seedling roots are few and delicate and unable to survive fully drying out. Feeding young seedlings nutrients is unnecessary because they already carry enough nutrients to sustain themselves within the seed. Seedling roots do best without any added nutrients for the first two to three weeks—this will encourage the roots to grow down and out in search of water and nutrients. These steps also apply to cuttings in order for them to thrive, but cuttings need some roots first—and this is best achieved by dipping the cut end of the clone in a rooting compound right after the cut is made. Rooting compounds contain the same rooting hormones that are found naturally in plants and it is believed that covering the undifferentiated cells along the cut with a concentrated dose of these hormones can greatly improve the success rate of cuttings and increase the speed at which they develop roots. As plants mature their roots begin to branch out from the taproot much like the leafy growth above the ground branches out from the stem. Rootlets— tiny root hairs that draw in water and nutrients— begin to grow. Root tips continue to elongate, always searching for water and nutrients. Larger mature roots will now anchor the plant, allowing trees to survive strong winds and orchids to cling to the branches and nooks of trees. These mature roots also begin to transport water and store food for the plant in the form of starches. Mature roots also have certain requirements that must be met in order for them to thrive. Roots growing in soil will do best in a temperature range between 18 and 24°C. Soil that is any colder than

Without healthy roots, plants will be stunted and prone to disease— stems will be weak and might break easily, flowers won’t bloom and fruit won’t set.”

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A rOOT pRIMER

this will slow down processes within the roots and the plant will absorb less water and nutrients, while soil any warmer than 24°C will cause roots to become dehydrated or even actually cook. Soil that is kept too warm will also have very little oxygen present in the nutrient solution, effectively drowning the plant. Growing in pots requires the gardener to pay close attention to the size of the root ball. Roots that have hit the edge of their containers will become tangled and starved for space—plants can become stunted, affecting the production of fruit and flowers. Once the container has become too small for the roots it is best to transplant the plant into a larger pot. This can be stressful to the plant, so try to be gentle on the roots. Try running room temperature water over the pot—this can help gently coax out a stubborn cluster of roots. If you want to keep the plant in the same-sized container, you can trim back the roots every so often, but this must be done with a sterile instrument to avoid the spread of disease. Root trimming is not recommended for plants that you are trying to get a yield from—high-yield plants need lots of healthy roots to maximize fruit production. Plants in hydroponic systems can be almost completely submerged in water while keeping roots healthy and white. Air stones can be used to infuse oxygen into the water. Plants in hydroponic systems like their root zones a bit cooler than their soil counterparts in pots, preferring that the nutrient solution in the reservoir stay in the 16 to 21°C range—water in this range can hold much more oxygen than water above 21°C. Sometimes the HID lights used in indoor gardening can cause the

“Roots are a vital link in the chain of plant systems and chains are only as strong as their weakest link—keep your roots healthy and you’ll keep the chain strong.” temperature of the growroom— and subsequently your hydroponic solution—to climb above the range safe for roots. To combat high reservoir temperatures, you can cover the reservoir with black and white plastic— the white side facing up to reflect the light up and the black side facing the solution to absorb any light that sneaks through. This will also help prevent algae and bacteria from forming in the reservoir. These organisms compete with the plants for oxygen and nutrients and can lead to root infections. A reservoir chiller is also an effective remedy for high reservoir temperatures. There are plenty of products on your local hydroponic store shelves that are designed to keep roots healthy and improve their development. One such product is liquid kelp fertilizer or kelp meal—kelp is rich in the hormones that promote root growth. There are also many biological products available that contain colonies of beneficial bacteria or fungi that work symbiotically with your plants, helping them break down and absorb nutrients more easily. This is especially applicable in organic gardens. The downside of these products is they are live and do have a shelf life. The numbers gradually decrease as time passes, so be wary of buying products

“Feeding young seedlings nutrients is unnecessary because they already carry enough nutrients to sustain themselves within the seed.” 50

Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

containing living beneficial bacteria or fungi that don’t have a packaging date or a best-before date. There are some products available that don’t contain any living bacteria or fungi—just the enzymes produced by them. These products are great because they do not have a shelf life, they can be used with hydrogen peroxide and they can be applied in hydroponic and aeroponic systems, as well as in pots. There are some insects that infest root zones and feed on and damage roots. The larvae of fungus gnats live in the growing medium and eat tiny root hairs. They appear as thin white worms with a black head about 1-cm long, while the adults are small black flies that suck the juices out of leaves. Fungus gnats affect a wide range of herbaceous plants. To deal with fungus gnat larvae, treat your growing medium with a larvicide—adults can be treated with yellow or blue sticky cards, or with biological controls like lady bugs. Nematodes are another species that can harm your roots. Pest nematodes are translucent worms 1-mm long that can cause root knots or galls and injure root tips—plants affected with them develop distorted leaves and stunted growth and fruit production. Plants that are most likely to be infested with nematodes include tomatoes, peppers and lettuce. Nematode infestations are best treated by using nematicides or by introducing predatory nematodes that will feed on the pest variety. The root system is all-important to the overall health of your plants—without a healthy root system, plants will display stunted growth and impaired fruit production. You can’t afford to forget about the roots—even though they are below the surface—because healthy roots equal healthy plants.



It

Starts

With a

Seed Lots of gardeners take seeds for granted— but there’s a lot going on in these little packages of life…

by Grubbycup

Many garden plants start out as seeds. You could look at these tiny plants wrapped in hard shells as presents waiting for spring to unwrap themselves.

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It starts with a seed

Many garden plants start out as seeds. You could look at these tiny plants wrapped in hard shells as presents waiting for spring to unwrap themselves. Primitive plants like mosses and ferns don’t make seeds; they reproduce by releasing small parts of themselves called spores. When one of these spores is introduced into an environment that is conducive to growth, it develops into a thallus and then grows reproductive organs—the reproductive organs fertilize and a new plant develops. In more advanced plants with seeds, though, the male and female flowers develop on the plant (or on nearby plants) and fertilization takes place in the female flowers when they are exposed to male pollen. The pollinated egg is a zygote, which grows into a tiny plant (embryo) encased in a shell. The shell helps to protect the small plant and allows it to stay in stasis until it finds itself in conditions that allow it to continue to grow. When separated from the parent plant and put in a suitable environment, the shell will break open and the tiny plant will resume growth. These shell-encased small plants are known as seeds. Each seed has three elements: the plant, a supply of nutrients and a seed coat. The encased plant will already have seed leaves (cotyledons), stems (hypoctyl) and a root (radicle). The seed nutrient stores of some plants develop outside of the seed coat and are known as fruit. The seed coat is the protective outer layer of the seed and can be soft or rigid. Some seeds—like tomatoes—require special handling before they can be planted. Tomato seeds must be “fermented” in a jar with some water. To prepare tomato seeds, scoop the inside of the tomato into a jar with a little water. Loosely cover with plastic wrap and keep in a warm location for two to three days, stirring daily. On the last day, scoop off the floating material, then rinse with plain water and dry. Other seeds, such as some kinds of fruit and certain forest plants, might require a cold period or have other special requirements to sprout. To help the tiny plants inside seeds stay in a state of suspended animation, excess moisture should be allowed to evaporate as the seeds dry out. Depending on the type of plant and

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Germination starts with

the reintroduction of moisture to the seed and finishes when the plant ends its reliance on its food stores and can begin to draw nutrition from the environment.”


Moistening

a paper towel, wringing it out and putting it with seeds in a plastic bag in a warm location to sprout is another way of getting moisture to saturate your seeds.”

the conditions, the seeds might last through the winter months to sprout in the spring, or they might last for several years, awaiting conditions that will allow them to sprout. Seeds kept too wet might sprout prematurely and then die, so seeds should be stored in a dry container at cool temperatures for best results. Germination starts with the reintroduction of moisture to the seed and finishes when the plant ends its reliance on its food stores and can begin to draw nutrition from the environment. In nature, this is one of the most vulnerable times for a plant—which is why so many seeds are generated by parent plants in order to ensure at least a small number of surviving plants in the next generation. The requirements for germination are moisture, oxygen, an appropriate temperature and—for some plants—light. The seeds of most plants have a low moisture content, which helps give them a long shelf life. Before a seed will sprout, it must first be rehydrated. When the seed comes into contact

with moisture, it draws in the water through a small hole called the micropyle. This moisture will cause the plant to swell and will soften the seed coat, allowing the radicle to break through and seek more moisture. The seed leaves will also begin to swell and will open to seek out light. To help with getting moisture through the micropyle, some gardeners will soak seeds in water for 24 hours. Scarification practices such as nicking the seed coats with a sharp object or rubbing the seeds on sandpaper or an emery board are also sometimes used to help weaken the seed coat and allow the plant easier access to moisture. Moistening a paper towel, wringing it out and putting it with seeds in a plastic bag in a warm location to sprout is another way of getting moisture to saturate your seeds. If you’re using this method, you should change the paper towel every few days to keep it fresh, as an environment conducive to germinating plant seeds is congenial to mould spores as well—if a seed becomes waterlogged, fungus can set in and ruin it.

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it starts with a seed

Many seeds can be sprouted by simply burying them at a depth three to four times their width and keeping them moist—but not soggy—until sprouting.”

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Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

The amount of oxygen needed by a particular type of plant varies. Some plants will not germinate even in the presence of moisture unless air is also present. For this reason, most seeds should not be soaked directly in water for days on end, but transferred to a better-aerated environment after a day or so. Moist seeds will germinate at temperatures between 20 and 30°C, with 23.89°C being ideal for many plants. In cold settings, a heating pad might be used to raise the temperature of seed trays. Some seeds germinate better in light, while others prefer dark conditions—research the type of seed to learn which it prefers. Seeds can be started directly in the pots that they will be grown in, but care must be taken to ensure proper moisture levels are maintained. One drawback to using final pots to start seeds in is that each seedling will take up a fair amount of space, which can be a pretty dramatic limiting factor when you’re starting seeds indoors in the early spring for spring plantings. One solution to this dilemma is to first start your plants in smaller pots and then transplant them into larger containers once the plants have grown to fill the smaller pot—this allows for more seeds to be started in the same area. Treat the roots gently while transplanting, as they are easily damaged. To start even more plants in a given area, they can be planted in starter plugs, which are commonly made with rockwool, foam, coco or compost. Inserts are available to allow seeds started in plugs to be kept neatly in standard trays. A crochet hook can be very handy as a probe, or to make a hole in your medium for a seed or cutting. With care, it can even be used to seat sprouts in starter plugs. Many seeds can be sprouted by simply burying them at a depth three to four times their width and keeping them moist—but


not soggy—until sprouting. To prevent the medium from drying out too quickly, sometimes domes or plastic sheets are used to keep humidity high while the seeds sprout. Do not allow your seedlings to stay too wet for too long, however, or fungus might start to grow on the plant near the medium, causing the fatal condition known as dampening off, where infected sprouts will wilt and rot. To prevent root rot, make sure the seedling medium is allowed to dry out slightly between waterings. Media should be moist, not wet. Don’t allow the media to dry out too much, however—once the plant has germinated it loses its ability to survive without water and with such a small root system it can dry out and die quickly. Seeds are not only essential to the survival of many types of plants, but they are an important food source. Corn, wheat and rice are seeds commonly used for food. Quality harvests depend on quality seeds—whether purchased, exchanged or gathered. Seeds from many plants can be collected and used the following year. If you’re planning to collect and use seeds, open-pollinated varieties should be employed for predictable results —these will tend to produce similar plants from one year to the next. If consistency isn’t that important to you, seeds from hybrid plants can be used, with potentially surprising results that will demonstrate much greater variation. In late winter to early spring, it is common to start seeds indoors to be prepared for spring planting. To determine when to start your outdoor garden seeds indoors, find out the date of the last frost in your area. Then read the seed packet, which should tell you how many weeks before the last frost date to start them. If the information is not available on the seed packet itself, look up the information online. There is an additional concern with some plants when calculating their planting dates because of something called photoperiodism—which means that these plants use the duration of their dark periods to determine when to flower. These plants bulk up during the summer until the longer nights of fall trigger flower or fruit set. The reason that this can be a concern is that if these plants are set outside in the early spring months when the nights are still long they can immediately begin flowering.

If consistency isn’t

that important to you, seeds from hybrid plants can be used, with potentially surprising results that will demonstrate much greater variation.”


it starts with a seed

This summer, I want to try growing loofahs (a plant sponge) on the top of my patio porch and in my backyard. Loofahs need a very long growing season (160 to 220 days) to produce sponges. Since the last frost in my area is March 23, I know I can start my seeds on March 1 and they will have time to sprout and get in a couple of weeks of growth before getting moved outside. Depending on your area, it is common to start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost date. Plants started indoors should be

58

hardened by moving to a sheltered location or by gradually increasing the time the plant spends outdoors—this will allow the plant to become used to its new conditions over time and minimizes shock from the change. Starting plants from seeds can be very rewarding and much cheaper than purchasing established plants. You’ll get a real feeling of accomplishment from growing a big, beautiful plant from a tiny seed—and as a bonus, starting your seeds indoors will extend your active gardening season as well.

Depending on your area, it is common to start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost date.”

Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013


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It’s as Easy as it “Neems” by James E. Kostrava From a tree found in dry, harsh sub-Saharan Africa comes a new natural plant supplement that improves plant health dramatically, increases yield and reduces stress from pests and turns the average Joe into a master grower… We have all seen movies of Africa safaris set in sub-Saharan Africa. The landscape is harsh, dry and desolate, yet in the middle of nowhere, you will see these large, lush healthy green trees that are not just surviving—they are thriving. Those are neem trees. Over generations, they have adapted to one of the harshest climates on Earth and have also evolved a resistance to bugs. They don’t poison the pests like traditional pesticides, they trigger a “stop eating” response that causes the bugs to starve to death. That’s why when locusts come through and eat everything in sight, the only thing left are the neem trees. Science behind the technology A microbiologist asked the question: “Is it possible to capture the essence of these remarkable neem trees from Africa

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Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

and apply them to plants here in North America, producing the same results that the neem trees exhibit in Africa?” The answer is, “Yes!” This process is called “bioadaptive supplementation” and the chief scientist that literally wrote the book on chemical extraction technology extracted the essence from neem seeds in a highly concentrated liquid that captures almost all of the bioactive nutrients found in the tree. This OMRI-listed pure essence is vastly different from the more well-known

neem oil. First of all, neem oil is just that: oil. We all know that oil and water don’t mix. This new concentrate is emulsifiable so it mixes with regular water to become a foliar spray. Second, neem oil includes less than 30% of the bioactive nutrients of the neem seed while this new plant supplement captures 92%. Once sprayed on the plants, these nutrients help plants quickly become healthier, increase their yield and show less stress from insects. It also allows professional growers to achieve this high productivity and plant health while reducing the use of other chemical nutrients and agricultural chemicals. Testimonials from master growers Master growers who field tested this new neem essence supplement said that it would be remarkable if it performed the way it did and was synthetic. However, the fact that the product was all natural and organic was a huge plus.


A master grower in Saginaw, Michigan said that when he was finished with his growing season, he was very pleased with the results he had with his control group of plants. He said he wouldn’t have given these results another thought if he had not had the trial group of plants—treated with the concentrated neem extract—right next to the control. The trial group looked much healthier and fuller, and he noticed a slight increase in yield. He also pointed out that even a slight yield increase can mean thousands of dollars of additional profit to him since the value of his plants is so high. Field trials Since 2006, the manufacturer tested this new essence through field trials conducted by independent testing labs like Michigan State University, Saginaw Valley State University and major professional growers around the country. Almost invariably, the results have been positive—and stunning. They have tested tomatoes, blueberries, strawberries, peppers, poinsettias and geraniums, and the results are below:

• Field tomatoes—70% increase in cumulative yield mass, compared to untreated control (2008, Saginaw Valley State University) • Bell peppers—80% increase in cumulative yield mass, compared to untreated control (2009, Intermediate Manufacturer’s Internal Study) • Cherry tomatoes—17% increase in fruit count, compared to untreated control (2009, Saginaw Valley State University) • Blueberries—Outperformed leading brands of chemical inputs in total percentage of marketable fruit (2009, Michigan State University) • Greenhouse strawberries—Nine-fold increase in fruit count, compared to untreated control (2008, Hillsdale College) • Organic apples—Outperformed the leading OMRIlisted brand in maintaining plant health (2007, Michigan State University) • Poinsettias—Up to 100% increase observed in red leaves, compared to untreated control (2009, intermediate manufacturer in partnership with major grower) MY

Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

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roots throughout the root zone. These feeder and nutrients, helping sustain robust plants and larger yields. Also, fabric containers allow air to enter the root zone from all surfaces of the container, thus promoting a healthy environment for the roots. Another common problem with traditional plastic containers is poor drainage, which leads to anaerobic conditions that result in soilborne diseases like phytophthora and pythium (which are responsible for root rot). Thanks to GeoPot’s unique porous fabric, excess water can easily drain from the container, keeping moisture at an ideal level.

Ever wonder how fabric pots are constructed, and how they affect plant growth and crop yields? Here, Khanhvi Hunter of GeoPots answers these questions and more. How are GeoPots made? GeoPots are made of a high-quality polypropylene each container, and sewn using a bonded polyester marinegrade thread. If you have seen a GeoPot, there is no missing our quality stitching on the top rim and signature quad-stitch down the side. What are the advantages of fabric containers for food crops? More roots, more fruits. The biggest advantage of fabric containers for food crops is the air root pruning process, 64

Maximum Yield Canada |

that are air pruned see? With traditional plastic pots, the plant’s roots reach the inside edge of the container and are then forced to circle the container in search of a friendlier environment. As these roots circle, minimal lateral branching occurs, which results in poor nutrient uptake and causes the roots to quickly become root bound. What makes the GeoPot so unique is when plant roots reach the container’s edge, its root tips actually become trapped by the porous fabric. When these root tips meet the air on the outside of the pot, they are naturally pruned. This pruning process forces lateral results in a healthy, more robust plant that utilizes the entire root zone for optimum plant growth. How much oxygen do plants need to reach optimal growth? Oxygen is key to diffusing carbon dioxide away from the roots, which is caused by the respiration of root cells and micro-organisms. A root zone without adequate access to oxygen will result in weak plants that exhibit slow growth and are predisposed to pests and diseases. GeoPot’s porous fabric allows air to enter the root zone from all surfaces of the container. This aeration provides a healthy environment organisms and bacteria.


Light Room grow tents are highly reflective and extremely durable. They are fully equipped with all the lightproof features, and we can supply six different sizes of rooms. The rooms are an excellent value, fast and easy to set up, and extremely durable and reflective for optimum success in production of your crop. GeoPot has also developed our own Flower Tower dry racks. With eight support straps, strong additional middle strap and ticker top wire, you What products do you offer and will not experience bowing. GeoPot what is unique and advantageous also provides you u-shaped zippers about each product? and individual buckles All of the GeoPots are on each layer with our “We not only produce one of the finest fabric available in both black open top style for easier and tan colour. The tan plant containers on the market, but can now removal of your harvest. GeoPots are popular in GeoPot has also begun to warmer climates because supply our customers with almost everything produce a line of items— they absorb less radiant such as our Raised Planter they need to have a successful harvest.” heat. GeoPots also Bed, Tray Liner Trellis come with the option Kits and QuickStix—for to add handles that those that are interested in canopy make moving plants quick and easy. management work. The Raised Planter Our handles are made of durable Beds allow you to really maintain polypropylene webbings and are a healthy garden with our original sewn on using a heavy-duty bonded GeoPot fabric and durable PVC polyester thread, making them frame to give you that air root extremely durable to prevent tearing pruning, as well as a vigorous canopy or stretching during moving. with our trellis netting. Our trellis is white, 15.24GeoPot Transplanter with the Velcro seam allows the side cm square lightweight polypropylene mesh that is strong, of the container to open for easy removal of the root ball of easy to install and will not rot or mould. The QuickStix are starter plants. This makes transplanting quick and easy with the perfect tool for training branches for maximum crop the least amount of transplanting shock. production and canopy management—no more need for plant ties and bamboo stakes! What makes GeoPot the “very best fabric container on We have also now developed a partnership with Green the market?” Planet Wholesale (mygreenplanet.com) to provide the GeoPot is set apart from other fabric containers for a variety upmost convenience for our customers to receive our of reasons. We use a thicker fabric that is very porous, which products throughout Canada. ensures a longer life span for the container while offering all of the benefits of aeration and air root pruning. All of our products are stitched using an extremely strong bonded polyester thread and our signature quad-stitched side seam, making GeoPots even more durable so they can be washed and reused. What customer feedback have you received that has been implemented into research and development? When GeoPot first got started, we noticed that many customers were dissatisfied with the top rim of the fabric container because it would flop in while it is being filled or watered. As a result, we have doubled over the fabric on the top rim making our pots more rigid.

Can you let our readers in on what your company as planned in R&D for 2013 and beyond? We have recently expanded our product line immensely. We not only produce one of the finest fabric plant containers on the market, but can now supply our customers with almost everything they need to have a successful harvest. Our Mylar Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

65


talking shop

AT A GLANCE Company:

Canadian Garden Supply

Owner:

Dan Johnson

Location:

1730 Highway S, Castlegar, British Columbia V1N 4W1

Keeping it Real:

Phone:

250-304-2911

E-mail:

dan@canadiangardensupply.com

Motto:

“ Keep it Simple”

Located in the central Kootenays, Canadian Garden Supply aims to keep things real and help its clients “enjoy the hydroponic life and treat the world with respect.” Here’s the story of how they do it… Dan Johnson has always been involved in the indoor gardening industry one way or another. He loves to talk about plants and maximizing yields, and he remembers reading Maximum Yield back in the ‘90s. “Maybe that [reading the magazine] inspired me,” he says. “I love reading about products … [and] the store gave me the opportunity to sell cool products that I like.” This store is Canadian Garden Supply, located in Castlegar—the central city of the Kootenays. With over 557 sq m of product space, Dan aims to offer his customers everything they need to successfully grow indoors. Still, Dan admits that he “could never have imagined all the different additives and product people use.” Everyone has their own unique way of doing things, he explains, and he quickly learned that there’s no helping that fact there will always be that one product his shop doesn’t have in stock that day.

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Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013


My philosophy has always been to treat customers like royalty, give them the best possible price and always offer the best possible advice.”

That wasn’t the only issue that Dan had to overcome when starting his shop. As with many businesses, the first two years at Canadian Garden Supply were hard and slow. The store’s location—while eventually important to Canadian Garden Supply’s growth—was 4 km out of town, meaning that customers were hesitant to make the drive. Also, there was another indoor gardening store that opened up in the area on the same day! (That shop, however, only lasted a year). What’s more, Dan was the only employee in those first two years. He worked six days a week and did everything from accounting to building all his own products. However, Dan says that working alone gave him the opportunity to get to know my customers on a personal level—which is always beneficial to a new business. It also allowed him to develop the best possible customer service. “My philosophy has always been to treat customers like royalty, give them the best possible price and always offer the best possible advice,” he explains. And this attitude has worked very well for Dan and Canadian Garden Supply. Today, there are five employees at the shop. “I’m lucky to have great employees,” says Dan.

“We are laughing and having a great time all day.” Dan is also proud to say that his employees know a great deal about hydroponics and are very interested in the future of industry. In fact, Dan lists his employee’s large knowledge base as one of his store’s greatest successes. “I would be surprised to see another store that has more real world experience than we do,” he says. And it’s a good thing too. If there’s one thing that Dan has learned about the hydroponics industry is that it is growing fast. “I’ve learned that I need to be informed about all the new products or else get left in the dust.” Dan also still lists the store’s massive inventory as another success. While they don’t have their own brand of products, Canadian Garden Supply is happy to offer different recipes depending on the customer’s needs. They also distribute their stock worldwide. Looking toward the future, Dan says they are close to opening our own online store, where they hope to offer the same exceptional service as their physical store. Yet through all this success and growth, Canadian Garden Supply’s philosophy remains the same. Dan and his employees aim to offer the best service possible and “always keep it real.”

Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

67


MAX-mART

PROMOTE YOUR RETAIL SHOP HERE AS LOW AS $75/MO CALL 1.250.729.2677

Unit 6 12342 82A Avenue

❘ Surrey, B.C. ❘ 604.599.1778

www.coastpetandplant.com

YOUR AD COULD BE HERE! CALL 1.250.729.2677 68

Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

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MAXIMUM YIELD distributors ALBERTA Double AA Garden Supplies Ltd. Bay 9 2820 Centre Avenue Calgary, AB T2A 7P5 403-273-9188 -------------------------------------------------------

Garden Centre

Your Plant’s Personal Trainer

IncrediGrow Garden Centre 103-7500 MacLeod Trail SE Calgary, AB T2H 0L9 403-255-0740 ------------------------------------------------------Quick Grow 1-1204 Edmonton Trail Road NE Calgary, AB T2E 3K5 877-426-4769 Smart Grow 2422 - 23 Avenue, NE Calgary, AB T2E 8J4 403-236-9999 Twins Greenhouse 13 - 2235 30th Avenue, NE Calgary, AB T2C 7C7 403-273-2881 All Season’s Garden Centre 10027 81 Ave., Edmonton, AB T6E 1W7 780-448-2385 Hydro-Lite 12249 Fort Road Edmonton, AB T5B 4H7 780-477-7860 Niloc Wholesale Inc. Box 82008 Yellowbird RPO Edmonton, AB T6J 7E6 780-885-4769 Fusion 5 Organic Gardens Inc. Box 5821, 120B 1 Street, SW High River, AB T1V 1P3 866-652-2594

BRITISH COLUMBIA Interior Gardener’s Supply 221 - 1 McDermid Road, Box 1779 100 Mile House, BC V0K 2E0 250-395-3399 Hygro Gardening Supplies Inc. 1791 Tamarac Street Campbell River, BC V9W 5Y7 250-286-0424 ------------------------------------------------------

Canadian Garden Supply 1730 Highway 3 Castlegar, BC V1N 4W1 250-304-2911

Sundogz Garden Supply 1824 Alberni Hwy. Coombs BC V0R 1M0 250-954-2046 Art Knapp 2855 Wentworth Road Courtenay, BC V9N 6B7 250-334-3024 Just-N-Tyme Greenhouse and Hydroponics Supply 1094 McKenzie Avenue Courteney, BC V9N 3C5 250-703-0476 Pacific NW Garden Supply 1139B Industrial Road 3 Cranbrook, BC V1C 5E3 250-489-4761 Cowichan Hydroponic Supplies 4 - 2955 Jacob Road Duncan, BC V9L 6W4 250-746-0244 Duncan Plants & Ponics 6512 Bell McKinnon Road Duncan, BC V9L 6C1 250-746-5591 Better Than Nature Enderby 1900 George Street Enderby, BC 250-838-5502 Sunshine Gardens Greenhouse Superstore 5 - 1744 Kelly Douglas Road Kamloops, BC V2C 5S4 877-372-2270 Room 2 Grow 901 Laval Crescent Kamloops, BC V2C 5P4 250-372-3663 -------------------------------------------------------

West Coast Hydroponic Garden Shop 113 - 805 Notre Dame Kamloops, BC V2C 5N8 250-851-2992 ------------------------------------------------------Better Than Nature Kelowna 725B Evans Court Kelowna, BC V1X 6G4 250-868-8978 Oasis 12 - 1771 Cooper Road Kelowna, BC V1Y 7T1 250-763-4769

Retail Stores listed alphabetically by city in each province.

Pacific NW Garden Supply 109 - 20110 Lougheed Highway Maple Ridge, BC V2X 2P7 Planting Plus Greenhouse Supplies and Hardware 22394 Dewdney Truck Road Maple Ridge, BC V2X 3J2 604-466-5949 Triple Tree Nurseryland 20503 Lougheed Highway Maple Ridge, BC V2X 2P9 604-465-9313 Nutty Zone 5 & 6 - 33201 London Avenue Mission, BC V2V 4P9 604-814-2223 Long Lake Nursery Hydroponic Supply 4900 Island Highway, North Nanaimo, BC 250-758-5012 Progressive Growth 41 - 1925 Bowen Road Nanaimo, BC V9S 1H1 800-405-4769 Word of Mouth Hydroponics Inc. 1-1611 Bowen Rd., Nanaimo, BC V9S 1G5 250.591.1180 -------------------------------------------------------

Tridon Hydroponics 12 - 1708 Bowen Road Nanaimo, BC V9S 1G9 250-755-1900 ------------------------------------------------------Vancouver Island Garden Supply Ltd. 4770 Wellington Rd Nanaimo, BC V9T 2H3 250-585-8881 Pacific NW Garden Supply Unit 14- 104 Silica Street Nelson, BC V1L 4M1 250-354-4767 Buckerfields 587 Alberni Highway Parksville, BC V9P 1J9 250-248-3243 Better Than Nature Penticton 101 - 78 Industrial Avenue, West Penticton, BC V2A 6M2 250-770-8978 -------------------------------------------------------

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Pacific NW Garden Supply Unit C1 - 1810 Kyle Court Kelowna, BC V1Z 3Z4 250-769-4791

Sun Beam Central 3444 River Road Chemainus, BC V0R 1K4 250-246-1379

BC Hydroponics 3 - 20092-93A Avenue Langley, BC V1M 3Y4 604-888-5716

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Green Earth Garden Supplies Unit 5, 19300, Langley Bypass Langley, BC V3S 6K2 604-532-7106

Backwoods Hydroponic & Garden 10590 Carlson Road Prince George, BC V2K 5E5 250-963-9541

GreenStar Plant Products Inc. 9430 198 Street, Langley, BC V1M 3C8 604-882-7699

PG2 1798 Nicholson Street Prince George, BC V2N 1V6 250-612-4769; 1-888-817-4769

Excel Air Systems 200 - 20170 Stewart Crescent Maple Ridge, BC V2X 0T4 604-728-0757

Skytek Indoor Solutions 833 4th Avenue Prince George, BC V2L 3H5 800-975-9835

Valley Indoor Geenhouse Supplies 103 - 44195 Yale Road West Chilliwack, BC V2R 4H2 877-702-1169 -------------------------------------------------------

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Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

Aurora Lighting 750 3rd Avenue Prince George, BC V2L 3C5 250-564-9888

Spruce Capital Feeds 1694 Quinn Street Prince George, BC V2N 1X3 250-564-6010

A+ Gardening Supplies 1450 Venables Street Vancouver, BC V5L 2G5 604-876-4769

Omega Garden Inc. 1695 Peligren Place Qualicum Beach, BC V9K 2S3 250-752-1301; 888 976 6342

BN Garden Supply 4493 Boundary Road Vancouver, BC V5R 2N3 604-431-2977

Garden Effects 200-2288 #5 Road Richmond, BC V6X 2T1 604-214-6620 Natural Choice Garden Centre, The 5500 48th Avenue, SE Salmon Arm, BC V1E 1X2 250-832-7151 -------------------------------------------------------

Double AA Garden Supplies Ltd. 2908 Commercial Drive Vancouver, BC V5N 4C9 604-876-8837 Pacific NW Garden Supply 2137 East Hastings Street Vancouver, BC V5L 1V2 604-254-4765

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Vancouver Garden Supply 4894 Fraser Street Vancouver, BC V5V 4H5 604-879-8167

S.A. Ecoline Products Ltd. 5671 Auto Road, SE Salmon Arm, BC V1E 4S1 250-833-4769 -------------------------------------------------------

Advanced Garden Supplies 7979 Aspen Road Vernon, BC V1B 3M9 250-545-9545

Nico’s Nurseryland 830 - 28th Street, NE Salmon Arm, BC V1E 2S7 250-804-2004 Mylo’s 3837 Squilax Anglemont Hwy Scotch Creek BC V0E 1M0 250-955-0525 Green & Clean Energy Co. Ltd. 2875 Cudlip Road Shawnigan Lake, BC V0R 2W0 250-732-7224 Happy Acres Greens & Backroad Hydroponics Equipment 2058 Cambie-Solsqua Road Sicamous, BC V0E 2V0 250-836-3878 -------------------------------------------------------

Kootenay Bubble Refinery PO Box 81, Slocan Park, BC V0G 2E0 250-226-7753 ------------------------------------------------------Garibaldi Nursery 38917 Progress Way, Squamish Industrial Park Squamish, BC V0N 3G0 604-892-3892 Coastal Growers Supply 103 - 12824 Anvil Way Surrey, BC V3W 8E7 604-599-1778 ------------------------------------------------------Fat Eddies Systems Inc. 108 - 18760 96th Avenue Surrey, BC V4N 3P9 604-888-2499 ------------------------------------------------------Garden King Supplies 7533 135 Street, Unit 109 Surrey, BC V3W OM8 604-598-1912 Pacific NW Garden Supply 15374-103A Avenue Surrey, BC V3R 9V8 604-588-4769; 800-443-4769 Warehouse Garden Supplies & Hydroponic 109 - 8173 128 Street Surrey, BC V3W 4G1 604-543-3177

AJs Pets & Things 3219 - 31st Avenue Vernon, BC V1T 2H2 250-549-3222 Better Than Nature Vernon 3506 25th Avenue Vernon, BC V1T 1P4 250-260-4466 Northern Lights Greenspace 3 - 2706 45th Avenue Vernon, BC V1T 3N4 250-558-4757 Indoor Jungle 2624 Quadra Street Victoria, BC V8T 4E4 250-388-5611 Mr. Fertilizer 9 Burnside Road, West Victoria, BC V9A 1B2 250-381-4644 Progressive Growth 111 - 1790 Island Highway Victoria, BC V9B 1H5 250-391-9519 Sunwest Garden Supply 2035 Unit B Louie Drive Westbank, BC V4T 1Y2 50-768-1636 Good Guys Gardening Center 250 McKenzie Avenue, South Williams Lake, BC V2G 1C6 250-392-2069 Trees Company Nursery & Garden Supplies G9 C17 RR1, 7030 Powell Road Winlaw, BC V0G 2J0 250-226-7334

MANITOBA Better Than Nature Winnipeg 2B - 2 Donald Street Winnipeg, MB R3L 0K5 204-453-3032 Gro Pro International Hydroponics 101-904 Porthee Avenue Winnipeg, MB R3G 0P4 204-956-1389 Kleen Gro Hydroponics 218 Osbourne Street South Winnipeg, MB R3L 1Z3 204-475-7096 My Two Sons 2 - 2055 McPhillips Street Winnipeg, MB R2Y 3C6 204-339-3489


Nature’s Nutrition 1819 Portage Avenue Winnipeg, MB R3J 0G4 204-889-2979 Northern Lights Hydroponics 129 Regent Avenue East Winnipeg, MB R2C 0C2 204-415-5106 Ready Set Grow! 375 Henderson Highway Winnipeg, MB R3C 2H2 204-668-GROW

Plant Manager Gardening 12 Industrial Drive, Richmond County Industrial Park Lennox Passage, Cape Breton, NS  B0E 1V0 902-345-2112 Steve’s Hydroponic Headquarters 131 Sackville Drive Lower Sackville, NS B4C 2R3 902-865-7764

Diatomite Canada 1938 Hwy #20, RR#1 Fonthill, ON L0S 1E6 866-650-1136 Northern Lights Green Supply 1938 Highway 20 (at 406), RR 1 Fonthill, ON L0S 1E6 905-892-3743

Greenfield Grow & Brew 69 Wilson Mountain Road Murray Siding, NS B6L 4N7 902-897-6568

Brite-Lite Indoor Garden Centre 1677 Cyrville Road, Meadowbrooke Plaza Gloucester, ON K1B 3L7 613-842-8999

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NEW BRUNSWICK Canadian Green Products 811 Central St. Centerville, NB E7K 2B9 506-276-3555 -------------------------------------------------------

Woodin Nickel Hydroponics 3393 Central West, Highway 4 Pictou County, NS BOK 1H0 902-695-7640 -------------------------------------------------------

Dieppe Hydroponics 988 Champlain St. Door #3 Dieppe, NB E18 1P8 506-384-4769 ------------------------------------------------------Craft N’ Grow 60 Micmac Road Eel Ground, NB E1V 4B1 506-624-9317 Ultimate Hydroponics Box 1191, Hampton, NB E5N 8H2 506-639-5948 Scott’s Nursery Ltd. 2192 Route 102 Highway Lincoln, NB E3B 8N1 506-458-9208 Atlantic Hydroponics & Greenhouses Inc. 42 Brandon Street Moncton, NB E1C 7E8 506-858-0158 Jardins Notik Gardens 798 Gray Road St-Charles, NB E4W 4N9 506-876-9100 21st Century Gardening 20 Bayside Drive St. John, NB E2J 1A2 506-657-9982

NOVA SCOTIA Den Haan’s Garden World 12688 Highway 1, Brickton Annapolis County, NS B0S 1M0 902-825-4722 Woodland Farm Nursery 3544 Highway 1, Annapolis Royal, NS B0S 1A0 902-532-7617 -------------------------------------------------------

ONTARIO

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Canadian Hydrogardens Ltd. 1330 Sandhill Drive Ancaster, ON L9G 4V5 905 648 1801

Garden Depot 605 Justus Drive Kingston,ON Canada K7M 4H5 613-384-8882

Homegrown Hydroponics Inc. 521 Dunlop Street West Barrie, ON L4N 9W4 705-721-8715 Homegrown Hydroponics Inc. 5386 Greenlane Road Beamsville, ON L0R 1B3 905-563-6121 -------------------------------------------------------

135 Main Street, Unit 14 Dartmouth, NS B2X 1R6 902-434-GROW (4769) ------------------------------------------------------Sweetleaf Smoke Shop and Hydroponics 3132 Isleville Street Halifax, NS B3K 3Y2 902-454-6646

Brite-Lite Indoor Garden Centre 1659 Victoria Street, North, Unit 6 Kitchener, ON N2B 3E6 888-670-0611 -------------------------------------------------------

AKA The Indoor Gardener 207 Exeter Road, Unit D London, ON N6L 1A4 519-652-4224 -------------------------------------------------------

BMA Hydroponics 404A Maitland Drive, Unit 2 Belleville, ON K8N 4Z5 613-967-9888 -------------------------------------------------------

Best of Hydroponics 360 Richmond Street London, ON N6A 3C3 519-858-1533

------------------------------------------------------Second Nature Hydroponics 4 - 2133 Royal Windsor Drive Mississauga, ON L5J 1K5 905-403-4769 ------------------------------------------------------Nature’s Elements Box 119 500 Mill Street Neustadt, ON N0G 2M0 519-799-5323 -------------------------------------------------------

Yield of Dreams Hydroponics 559 Steven Court 12 Newmarket, ON L3Y 6Z3 877-778-7960 -------------------------------------------------------

Green Kingdom Hemp 1103 Cassells Street North Bay, ON P1B 4B3 705-494-7169 ------------------------------Brite-Lite Indoor Garden Centre 4373 Steeles Avenue West North York, ON M3N 1V7 416-663-2999 Supply For You 3615 Weston Road, Unit 6 North York, ON M9L 1V8 416-741-8062 All Grow Hydroponic 391 Marwood Drive, Unit 14 Oshawa, ON 866-606-4723

Vantage Hydroponics 1 Adelaide Street North London, ON N6B 3P8 519-451-4769

Ontario Hydroponics 103015 Grey Road 18 Owen Sound, ON N4K 5N6 519-372-1144

In-Home Gardens 279 Colborne Street Brantford, ON N3T 2H3 519-754-9090

Markham Hydroponics 95 Royal Crest Court 18 Markham, ON L3R 9X5 905-305-0698 Nature’s Garden Supplies 24-340 Don Park Road Markham, ON L3R 1C5 905-470-7887

Envirotex PO Box 21069 Paris, ON N3L 4A5 519-442-1237

All Seasons 1000 Dundas Street East Mississauga, ON L4Y 2B8 905-848-2619

Sweet Hydroponic Gardens 776 Bruce Street Renfrew, ON K7V 3Z8 613-433-9600

Green Thumb Hydroponics 3075 Ridgeway Drive, 25 Mississauga, ON L5L 5M6

Bluewater Hydroponics 1173 Michener Road, Unit 12 Sarnia, ON N7S 5G5 519-337-7475

Pro Grow Indoor Garden Supplies 1710 Bishop St. Unit 2 Cambridge, ON N1T 1T2 519-624-7692

Iponic Zone 6110 Ordan Drive Unit #1 Mississauga, ON L5T 2B4 416-556-0811

Hydrogarden 1122 Paul Street Cornwall, ON K6H 6H5 613-360-6996

Hydro Culture Emporium Inc. 1315 Richmond Rd. Unit #7 Ottawa, ON K2B 8J7 613-715-9472

Agrogreen Canada Inc. 1938 Hwy #20, RR#1 Fonthill, ON L0S 1E6 866-650-1136

Harvest Time Hydroponics 5918 Main St., Niagra Falls, ON L2G 5Z8 289 296 7754

hydroponics for everyone

Grow It All Hydroponics Inc. 165 Geary Avenue, Unit 3B Toronto, ON M6H 2B8 416-588-9595 ------------------------------------------------------Homegrown Hydroponics Inc. 26 Meteor Drive Toronto, ON M9W 1A4 416-242-4769 Hydrotech 2436 Kingston Road Toronto, ON M1N 1V2 416-267-4769 Jungle Hydroponics 2215 Gerrard Street East Toronto, ON M4E 2C8 416-699-0861 Toronto Hemp Company 665 Yonge Street Toronto, ON M4Y 1Z9 416-920-1980 Indoor Farmer 10 Wyman Road, Unit 4, Waterloo, ON N2V 1K7. 519-886-9200 Grower’s Choice Hydroponics 1621 McEwen Drive 14 Whitby, ON L1N 9A5 905-725-GROW Northern Lights Hydroponics 2690 Oulette Ave Windsor, ON N8X 1L7 519-254-4015 Urban GreenHouse Hydroponics & Aguaculture 7635 Tecumseh Road E. Windsor, ON N8T 3H1 519-944-8444 urbangreenhousehydroponics.com -------------------------------------------------------

Home Hydroponics 289 Rutherford Road, South 22 Brampton, ON L6W 3R9 905-874-GROW

Indoor Harvest 3040 New Street Burlington, ON  L7R 1M5 289-337-9169

grow it all

Paradise Gardens Hydroponics 2158 Chiefswood Road Oshweken, ON N0A 1M0 519-445-2275

D&M Gardens 2961 Main Street Blezard Valley, ON P0M 1E0 705-897-3727

Homegrown Hydroponics Inc. 79 Woolwich Street South Breslau, ON N0B 1M0 519-648-2374

Greenthumbs Garden Supply 338 Kingston Road Toronto, ON M4L 1T7 647-345-GROW (4769)

Ontario Growers Supply 1540 Fanshawe Park Road West London, ON N6H 5L8 519-641-3992

J & C Hydroponics 343 Elgin Street, Unit A Cambridge, ON M1R 7H9 519-622-9969 S&L Worx Hydroponics

Happy Hydroponics 68 Princess Street Hamilton, ON L8L 3K9 905-545-8434

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Peterborough Hydroponic Center 347 Pido Road, Unit 32 Peterborough, ON K9J 6X7 705-745-6868

Ozone Environmental Technologies 361 Rowntree Dairy Road Unit 4 Woodridge, ON L4L 8H1 905-264-6618 -------------------------------------------------------

QUEBEC Un Monde Sans Terre 565 Beausejour Alma, QC G8B 5V3 418-480-3274 Hydro-Tonyque 761 Avenue Gilles Villeneuve Berthierville, QC J0K 1AO 450-836-8088 -------------------------------------------------------

Plant-O-Maxx 3169 Blais, Boisbriand, QC, J7H 1H2 514-968-7799

Indoor Gardens Canada 2952 Thompson Road Smithville, ON L0R 2A0 905-957-6969

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Green And Clean 761 Barrydowne Road Sudbury, ON P3A 3T6 800-246-5503

Gerard Bourbeau & Fils Inc. 8285, 1 re Avenue Charlesbourg, QC G1G 5E6 418-623-5401

Northern Hydroponics 236 Simpson Street Thunder Bay, ON P7C 3H4 807-623-3666

Les Grands Jardins Lavel 2900, Boul. Cure-Lavelle Chomedey, Laval, QC H7P 5S8 250-729-2687

Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

71


MAXIMUM YIELD distributors Simplement Vert 8B Georges-Gagne Delson, QC J5B 2E1 514-913-8378 (VERT) -------------------------------------------------------

Fernand Corbeil Produits Horticoles - Horticultural Products 17 boul. Ste-Rose Est Laval, QC H7L 3K3 450-622-2710

Pousse Magique Atwater 3522 Notre-Dame, ouest, Montreal, Qc H4C 1P4 514-481-3939

Hydro Plus 149 avenue Principale A Rouyn Noranda, QC J9X 4E3 819-762-4367

Hydro Times

Qué-Pousse - Montreal 2215 Walkley Montreal, QC H4B 2J9 514-489-3803

Rap Hydroponique 5700, rue Martineau Local 7 Saint-Hyacinthe, QC J2S 8B1 450-768-5188

1533 Boulevard Cure Labelle Laval, QC H7V 2W4 450-688-4848

Hydrosphere 2000 2400 rue Canadian, Suite 104 Drummondville, QC J2C 7W3 819-478-9791 -----------------------------------------------------Les Serres Binette Inc 2568 Boul. Mercurre Drummondville, QC J2A 1H2 819-478-7195 Pablo Jardinage Drummondville 2080 Joseph St-Cyr Drummondville, QC J2C 8V6 819-475-2525 Les Entreprises Fernand Pigeon Inc. 174 Beaudoin Nord Durham-Sud, QC J0H 2C0 819-858-2777 Hydromax Gatineau 3-1695 Atmec (porte 6) Gatineau, QC J8P 7G7 819-663-7470

Hydromax Laval 295 Boulevard Curé Labelle Laval, QC H7L 2Z9 450-628-8380

Summum Bio Teck 2100 Ontario Est Montreal, QC H2K 1V5 866-460-2226

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Univert 4 Saisons 2100 Ontario Est Montréal, QC H2K 1V5 514-527-2226

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Qué-Pousse - Laval 940 Bergar Laval, QC H7L 4Z8 450-667-3809 ------------------------------Point De Vue 880 chemin St-Féréol Les Cèdres, QC J7T 1N3 450-452-2878 / 1-877-510-2991 Hydro Rive-sud 4721 Boulvard de la rive sud Levis, QC G6W 1H5 418-835-0082

Naturexpert Inc. 828 Chemin du Sixième Rang Gatineau QC J8R 3A4

Boutique Grunge 364 rue Sherbrooke Magog, QC J1X 2S1 819-847-4141

Jardinages Gilles Robert Inc. 574 St-Hubert Granby, QC J0H 1Y5 450-375-3441

Hydromax Mont-Laurier 388 Rue Hebert Mont-Laurier, QC J9L 2X2 888-609-4476

Méristème Hydroponique 871 Dufferin Granby, QC J2G 9H8 450-991-1514

Hydroculture Guy Dionne 8473 - 19th Avenue Montreal, QC H1Z 4J2 514-722-9496

Jardinage d’intérieur Huntingdon 72 Dalhousie Huntingdon, PQ J0S 1H0, Canada 450-322-6079

Hydro Expert 12752 Industriel Montreal, QC H1A 3V2 514-624-3091

Hydroponique Plus Inc. 405 - 18 Avenue Lachine, QC H8S 3R1 514-634-3677 Biofloral 675 Montee, St. Francois Laval, QC H7C 2S8 877-38-HYDRO -------------------------------------------------------

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Brite Lite Hydroponics 940 Bergar, Laval, QC H7L 4Z8 450-669-3803

Retail Stores listed alphabetically by city in each province.

B&S Electrique Inc. 2240 Pitt Street Montreal, QC H4E 4H1 514-931-3817 Distribution De la Plante 5498 Hochelaga Suite 910 Montreal, QC H1N 3L7 514-255-1111 Hydromax Montreal 9300 Lajeunesse Montreal, QC H2M 1S4 514-381-0111 Hydromax St-Henri 3522 Notre-Dame Montréal, QC H4C 1P4 514-481-3939

Vinexpert De L’Est 6384 Beaubien est Montreal, QC H1M 3G8 514-354-8020 XXXtractor Inc. 1228 St. Marc Montreal, QC H3H 2E5 514-931-4944 www.xxxtractor.com

Culture Uni Vert 36 rue de Martigny E Saint-Jérôme, QC J7Z 1V4 www.cultureunivert.com Comptoir Richelieu Inc. 350, du Collège Sorel-Tracy, QC J3P 6T7 800-363-9466 Ferme Florale Inc. (Botanix) 2190 Blvd. Laurier (route 116) St. Bruno de Montarville, QC J3V 4P6 450-653-6383 Hydrobec 2145 Lavoisier Suite 4 Ste-Foy, QC G1N 4B2 418-687-1119

Qué-Pousse - Mont. Tremblant 462 Montée Kavanagh Mont-Tremblant, QC J8E 2P2 819-429-6145

Chanvre du Nord Inc. 38 DeMartigny est St-Jérome, QC J7Z 1V4 866-565-5305

MegaWatt Hydroculture 636 Route 364 Morin Heights, QC J0R 1H0 450-226-2515

Hydro Sciences 4800 de la Cote-Vertu Blvd. Saint-Laurent, QC H4S 1J9 514-331-9090

Fleuriste Savard Inc. 1833 boul. Louis-Frechette Nicolet, QC J3T 1M4 819-293-5933

Pablo Jardinage Shawinigan 5023 Boulevard Royal Shawinigan QC J9N 6T8 819-731-9766

Qué-Pousse - Point-Claire 1860D Sources Blvd Pointe-Claire, QC H9R 5B1 514-426-5057

Sherbrooke Hydroponique 3545 King Est, Sherbrooke, QC J1G 5J4 819-829-9299

Boutique Echologik 829, cote d’Abraham Quebec, QC G1R 1A4 418-648-8288

Plant-T-Plantes 3439 boulevard Fiset Sorel-Tracy, QC J3P 5J3 450-780-0008

Boutique Echologik 790 St - Jean Quebec, QC G1R 1P9 418-648-2828

Qué-Pousse - St-Constant 6264 Route 132 Ste-Catherine, QC J0L 1E0 450-635-4881

échologik 798 St Jean Québec, QC G1R 1P9 418-648-2828; 418-648-8288

Benoit Dupuis Extincteurs Inc. 2503 Victoria Street Ste-Julienne, QC J0K 2T0 450-831-4240

Hydroculture Guy Dionne 1990 Cyrill-Duquet Local 150 Québec, QC G1N 4K8 418-681-4643 Pousse Magique 515 rue Lanaudiere Repentigny, QC J6A 7N1 450-582-6662

Hydroponique 2000 84 Boul. Curé Labelle Ste-Therese, QC J7E 2X5 450-971-0726 Pépinière Eco-Verdure 965 Boul. Sauvé St-Eustache, QC J7R 4K3 450-472-6474

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International Hydroponique 5478 Hochelaga St Montreal, QC H1N 3L7 514-255-2525

Fred Lamontagne Inc. 356 Chemin du Sommet Est, Rimouski, QC G5L 7B5 418-723-5746

Amazonia Hydroponique 394 Boulvard Arthur-sauve St. Eustache, QC J7R 2J5 450-623-2790

Espace Culture Boutique 17 boul. Ste-Rose Est Laval, QC H7V 3K3 450-622-2710

Momentum 11289 London Avenue Montreal, QC H1H 4J3 888-327-4595

Qué-Pousse - Sherbrooke 4394 Bourque Rt. 112 Rock Forest, QC J1N 1S3 819-563-0353

P.P.M. Hydroponique 504 Rue du Parc St. Eustache, QC J7R 5B2 450-491-2444

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Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

Hydrotek 12300 Rue de l’avenir St. Janvier, QC J7J 2K4 St-Jean Hydroponique 747 rue St-Jacques St-Jean-Sur-Richelieu, QC J3B 2M9 450-346-9633 Hydromax Terrebonne 1674 Chemin Gascon Terrebonne, QC J6X 4H9 450-492-7447 Hydromax Trois-Rivières 6157 rue Corbeil Trois-Rivières Ouest, QC G8Z 4P8 819-372-0500 Pablo Jardinage Intérieur 2 Des Ormeaux Suite 500 Trois-Rivières, QC G8W 1S6 819-693-6000 Rap Hydroponique 326 Rue Vachon Trois-Rivières QC G8T 8Y2 819-376-5959 Hydromax Val-David 895 route 117 nord Val-David, QC J0T 2N0 888-320-0129 Val d’Or Hydroculture 1261 3e Avenue Val d’Or, QC J9P 1V4 Horticulture Piégo 228 Pierre Bertrand Sud Vanier, QC G1M 2C4 418-527-2006 Qué-Pousse - Vaudreuil-Dorion 3666-D, boul. Cité des Jeunes Vaudreuil-Dorion, QC J7V 8P2 450-424-0306 Centre Jardin Denis Brodeur 15 Nord C.P. 658 Waterloo, QC J0E 2N0 Sonador Horticulture Inc. 819-479-2941

SASKATCHEWAN Busy Bee Upholstery Box 811, 134 5th Avenue East Gravelbourg, SK S0H 1X0 306-648-3659 B&B Hydroponics and Indoor Gardening 1404 Cornwall Street Regina, SK S4R 2H7 306-522-4769 Waterboy Supply 401 Dewdney Avenue East Regina, SK S4N 4G3 306-757-6242

YUKON, NUNAVUT and NORTHWEST TERRITORIES Porter Creek Indoor Garden Centre 1307 Centennial Street Whitehorse, YT Y1A 3Z1 867-667-2123


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4 Chances to WIN

every 2nd month for the entire year! enter now at maximumyield.com/winbig

1 WIN

2 WIN

Xtreme Prize Pack

Nutrifield Prize Pack

the Xtreme prize pack includes 1 qt. (1 l) each of: Xtreme Veg, Xtreme Juice and Xtreme boost. Xtreme Veg is an all-in-one root and grow stimulator made from organic matter and seaweed kelp. Xtreme Juice increases efficiency of mineral fertilizers. Xtreme boost promotes enzyme production, improves resistant to disease and encourages fruit swelling. Visit xtremenutrients.com

the nutrifield prize pack includes: lucius Maximus digital ballast, nF coco, nF Zyme and eP FM2 fans. the lucius Maximus durable, energy-saving digital ballast works on HPs and MH lamps. nF coco’s improved formula features amino acids, phyto nutrients, vitamins enzymes and more. nF Zyme’s unique formula will optimize root growth. eP FM2 centrifugal fans are built for highouput conditions. Visit nutrifield.us

3 WIN

4 WIN

ExHale Homegrown CO2 From Urban Agricultural

Current Culture H2O Prize Pack

exHale® Homegrown co2 is a revolution in indoor co2 production. exHale cultivates co2 24 hours a day with no need to refill bottles or use expensive co2 production units. exHale is designed for a 4- by 4-ft. area and is guaranteed to produce co2 for at least six months. Maintenance free! no heat! no electricity! Just co2. Visit exhaleco2bags.com

current culture H2o is giving away a uc solo™ single module water culture system and cultured solutions™ premium plant nutrient sample pack. includes a 13 gal. growth module, Heavy Harvest lid with convenient porthole, custom-molded heavy-duty net pot, drain valve kit, eco Plus dual air pump, air hose, two medium round air stones and growstones™. Visit cch2o.com

Draw closes on April 15, 2013. For complete contest rules, go to maximumyield.com/winbig Prizes might not be exactly as shown.


COMING UP NEXT ISSUE

DO YOU KNOW?

1.

Many factors that cause nutrient deficiency symptoms in a plant—the nutrient itself might not be the cause.

2.

Purple/red discoloration occurs on stems or along leaf petioles, veins or margins due to abnormal levels of anthocyanin that accumulate when plants are stressed. These symptoms can also be caused by physical stresses like as cold, drought and disease.

Feeding for Flavour When fruits have a complex, layered flavour, you know the grower finally got it right. Here, Casey Jones Fraser shows you how to do it in your own garden...

Make it Rain… Then Collect it! Rainfall is a precious natural resource, but all too often it goes to waste. Instead, we can learn to make effective use of this gift from above…

Total Control: Choosing the Right Cooling System There are all kinds of options available to you when choosing the ideal cooling system for your garden—the tricky part is balancing upfront costs and energy savings to come out with an equation that makes sense for your particular space…

Plus: Hydroponic news, tips and trivia; hot new products; exclusive giveaways and more!

www.maximumyield.com Maximum Yield Canada (March/April) will be available in March for free at select indoor gardening retail stores across Canada, and on maximumyield.com Subscriptions are available at maximumyield.com/subscriptions and maximumyield.com/digital-subscription Also, Stay in the Know with Maximum Yield’s E-News Every month Maximum Yield’s E-News brings you the latest news, tips and tricks, reader questions, contests and upcoming events. If you are not yet subscribed to our mailing list, sign up today at maximumyield.com/enewssignup

3.

Saponins are natural detergents found in a variety of plant species. The soapy characteristics of saponins make them ideal for use as spray adjuvants (to make pesticides work better) or as additives to help spray solutions stick and spread onto leaf surfaces for better coverage and increased nutrient uptake.

4.

A high alkalinity level (such as that found in hard water) would be considered to be greater than 300 milliliters per liter of calcium carbonate and a low alkalinity level less than 100 milligrams per litre.

6.

Water supplies will all carry some mineral content unless the water has been through a distillation or reverse osmosis process to remove it.

Roots that have hit the edge of their containers will become tangled and starved for space—plants can become stunted, affecting the production of fruit and flowers. Once the container has become too small for the roots it is best to transplant the plant into a larger pot.

7.

5.

Germination starts with the reintroduction of moisture to the seed and finishes when the plant ends its reliance on its food stores and can begin to draw nutrition from the environment.

Root growth will increase dramatically if you can maintain the root zone temperature at 24 to 27°C and keep the air temperature around six to eight degrees cooler.

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Maximum Yield Canada | March/April 2013

8.




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