Matchbook Magazine, September 2012 by Matchbook Magazine

emily Current & meritt Elliott greet fall with style

Issue No. 20

September 2012

COACH.COM / LEGACY

september 2012

The Matchbook Girl... polishes her riding boots for fall. anxiously awaits Fashion Week festivities. splurges on chic back-to-school supplies. brunches with girlfriends over brioche french toast. would gladly move into the seventh floor of Bergdorfs. underlines passages from "gone with the wind." secretly wants a slumber party in the Eloise Suite at The Plaza. never forgets to look up.

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Sept. 2012 issue No. 20

staples 10 DATE BOOK 12 NOTE FROM KATE & JANE 16 EDITOR’S WISH LISTS

Love Story Autumn Botanicals You've Got Mail

cover Emily Current and Merritt Elliott

at their West Hollywood studio Photography by Lara Rossignol

122 DIRECTORY 123 WHAT’S IN YOUR BAG?

Grace Kelly

124 JUST MARRIED 126 odds & Ends

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contents

history lesson

22 10 THINGS YOU DIDNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T KNOW ABOUT...

Lucian Freud 46 PORTRAIT OF A LADY

48 Kindred spirit

Margaret Mitchell

46 52

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34 36

48 32

22 28

Classic is always in CONTENT style. S

culture & living 24 newsworthy

Astor Auction at Sotheby's

26 The icon

The smoking slipper

28 MAY WE SUGGEST

Book, film and music reviews

32 Remembering Vreeland

36 Dukeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hawaiian Paradise

40 Dear Matchbook 42 matchbook gallery

Autumn Awakening 44 gadget girl

Connie Wong of Moderne Press

52 Beauty counter

Burgundy Beauty

54 in your words

Fall wardrobe favorites

56 how to...

Be a fashion insider

Save 20% on your favorite brands using the exclusive promotion code: Matchbook

www.NROCO.com

contents

features 62 A Well Groomed Life

Equestrian inspired looks for fall...

78 Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Worry, Be Happy

At home in Brooklyn with artist Happy Menocal

106 62

94 Beyond Their

Wildest Dreams

A visit with the dynamic duo behind San Francisco's The Curiosity Shoppe 106 West Coast Girls

Emily Current and Merritt Elliott talk fashion and friendship at their West Hollywood studio

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date book: september

JFK marries Jacqueline Lee Bouvier in Newport, Rhode Island

1970

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The Partridge Family premieres on ABC Television

26 poet T.S. Eliot is born in St. Louis, Missouri

Pippa Middleton, Sister of Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, is born in Reading, Berkshire, England

Stella McCartney, English fashion designer, is born in London, England

20 1946

Oprah launches influential book club

The Beatles recorded their first single, "Love Me Do"

1888

1996

The nation's first Labor Day Parade , sponsored by the Knights of Labor, is held in New York City

thursday

1983

5 1882

1962

wednesday

1971

tuesday

1953

monday

First Cannes Film Festival

National Strawberry Cream Pie Day

Marilyn Monroe's famous â&#x20AC;&#x153;Skirtâ&#x20AC;? scene in "The Seven Year Itch" is filmed

22 1994

California is admitted as the 31st U.S. state

15 1954

sunday

1850

Guillaume Apollinaire, french literary, is arrested for stealing the Mona Lisa

1911

saturday

The TV sitcom Friends debuts

30 1975

friday

Marion Cotillard, French actress, is born in Paris, France

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note from: katie + jane

Oh, September, how pleased we are to see you! It may still be eighty degrees here in New York, but we can already hear the whisperings of the cashmere sweaters hibernating deep in our closets. We love fall for countless reasons – it’s crisp, it’s cozy, and it begs for you to play in the leaves. This year we’re welcoming autumn with the help of Los Angelesbased duo Emily Current and Meritt Elliott. Their classic American style is Matchbook to a T and we’re fully on board with their fall fancies of skinny trousers and red/orange lipstick. Also

featured you’ll find wonderfully witty Brooklyn-based artist Happy Menocal, an equestrian inspired fashion editorial, and The Curiosity Shoppe’s Lauren Smith and Derek Fagerstrom as they celebrate their upcoming collaboration with Target. If you enjoy the features half as much as we did making them, we’re off to a good start!

Dust off your riding boots, ladies – Autumn is here! katie + jane

Happy sent this darling thank you note of her pup, Tramp. We simply had to share!

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Handcrafted American-made furniture Wells studio sofa $3399; Wells sofa $3499; Corbett cocktail table $799; Oskar chair $ 599; all items priced as shown. Our free catalog has 380 pages of inspiration. Order yours at roomandboard.com. 800.952.8455

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contributors

the matchbook team Sydney Ballestreros

Stylist Bisbee, AZ

carol dronsfield

Cooper Carras

Photographer Photographer New York, NY San Francisco, CA

Katie Armour

co-founder editorial director Jane Lilly Warren

co-founder creative director Jamie Ericson

copy editor

Katie Evans

illustrator

sarah Tolzmann Erin Hiemstra

Guest Editor San Francisco, CA

Erin Newkirk

Mackenzie Horan

Writer Darien, CT

Lara Rossignol

Photographer Writer Minneapolis, MN Los Angeles, CA 14

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Puspa Lohmeyer

Photographer Bisbee, AZ

Scott Wade

Writer New York, NY

associate designer Amelia Moye

editorial intern

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editor's wish list

Love Story katie armour, editorial director

inspired by a tale of collegiate romance

4 3 5

8 6

1. Begley Frames, Warby Parker, $95 2. Stadium Coat, J.Crew, $350 3. World Traveler Journal, ModCloth, $20 4. Preserved Sunflower Wreath, Williams-Sonoma, $90 5. 5th Avenue Glacier Park Throw, Pendleton, $138 6. City Bag, Coach, $278 7. Gold Stainless Link Bracelet Watch, Brooks Brothers, $495 8. Needlepoint Kindle Case, Lands' End, $33 16

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2 1

1. Take Ivy, Amazon, $16 2. Leather Belt, Lands' End, $50 3. Rosie Sweater Dress, Steven Alan, $275 4. Stella McCartney Beanie, Net-A-Porter, $210 5. Monroe Pillow, Crate & Barrel, $40 6. Tivoli Audio Model One, Room & Board, $150 7. London Leather Chair, Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams, $2275 8. Striped Crewneck Sweater, L.L.Bean, $40 9. Cashmere Tartan Scarf, Barbour, ÂŁ90 matchbook

editor's wish list

Botanical Gardens

2 3

jane lilly warren, creative director

floral vines and leaves of an autumn garden

9 8

1. Pink Flower Votive, Furbish Studio, $18 2. 2013 Antoinette Calendar Print, Rifle Paper Co., $20 3. MCMC Perfume Oils - Garden, Thistle & Clover, $45 4. Kenzo Floral-Intarsia Wool Sweater, Net-A-Porter, $420 5. Villa Paloma Flower Earrings, Tiffany & Co., $450 6. Marc by Marc Jacobs Glass and Resin-Embellished Brass Flower Ring, Net-A-Porter, $98 7. The Golden Age of Flowers by Celia Fisher, Target, $22 8. Valentino Lace Print Loafer Poudre Grey Leather, Jildor, $695 9. Ottoman Watch, Metropolitan Museum, $70 10. Chinese Lidded Jar - Floral Garden, Wisteria, $89 18Floral matchbook

2 1

7 6

1. Floral Vine Porcelain Stool, Gump's, $385 2. John Robshaw Elderberry King Sham, Bloomingdale's, $125 3. Orange Blossom Hand & Body Bar, Hand In Hand, $18 for 2 4. Winter Berries by Hugo Guinness -Framed Linocut, John Derian, $750 5. Stray Dog Designs Cooley Floor Lamp, Zinc Door, $770 6. Diane von Furstenberg Alex Floral-Print Sequined Skirt, Net-A-Porter, $565 7. Stila In The Garden Eye Shadow Palette, Sephora, $39 8. Lovely Leaves Wallpaper - White/Copper, Hygge & West, $125 for 1 Roll matchbook 19

editor's wish list

You’ve Got Mail Erin Hiemstra, Guest Editor

“I would send you a bouquet of newly-sharpened pencils...” -Joe Fox

1. You’re Awesome Card, Sugar Paper, $6 2. Brass Peacock Letter Opener, Jonathan Adler, $98 3. Eames Side Chair, Room & Board, $349 4. Doodle Pencil Necklace, Kate Spade, $78 5. Zigzag Sequin Tee, J.Crew, $138 6. Stella McCartney Brocade Heels, Net-A-Porter, $830 7. Tree Bomb Mug, Ferm Living, €20 20

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3 1 2

1. Fornasetti Pillow, Barneys, $160 2. Madeleine Suspension Lamp, DelightFULL, Price Upon Request 3. Extra Large Gold Bowl, Canvas, $55 4. Clint Box, Ferm Living, €34 5. set of 14 pencils-bamboo pattern white, iomoi, $15 6. Acrylic Clip Board, Russell Hazel, $22 7. Delwyn Desk, Anthropologie, $700 8. Ladurée Candle, Aedes De Venustas, $68 matchbook

10 things

Lucian Freud

10 Things You Didn't Know About... British artist Lucian Michael Freud was born in Berlin in 1922. By the time of his passing at age 88 he had redefined portraiture and established himself as the preeminent British painter of his time. And now, some lesser known facts about the publicity-shy artist...

1. He was the grandson

of psychoanalyst Sigmund Freud. His father, Ernst, was an architect and his mother, Lucie, the heiress to a timber fortune.

In 1933 his family fled from Germany to England due to Nazi threats to Jews. England allowed them naturalization in 1993 for which Freud was forever grateful. He once referred to London as, “the place I prefer in every way to anywhere I’ve ever been.”

3 . As a young man he was a seaman on

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the Nova Scotia-bound merchant cruiser SS Baltrover. His ship was attacked from air and by submarine, but he survived.

4 . The exaggerated

anatomies of his subjects began in the 1950s and were the result of a new perspective -- Freud had begun standing to paint.

5. In 2001 Queen

6. He has at least

fourteen recognized children from various mothers. Many of them, such as fashion designer Bella Freud, came to sit for their father.

7. Freud lived alone in

Notting Hill. He was an admitted control freak and preferred to be contacted by telegram.

Elizabeth II sat for a small 8. The identity of his portrait and the final piece sitters was often not was highly controversial. disclosed. The Duke and One critic went so far Duchess of Devonshire as to say, "It makes her owned a portrait of one look like one of the royal of Freud's daughters for corgis who has suffered years before the painter a stroke." Freud donated one day mentioned who the painting to the Royal the subject was. Collection.

10 things

9. His work was

unfashionable in the United States until in 1987 the Hirshhorn Museum in Washington bravely exhibited his bold, naturalistic paintings. A cult following soon developed and in 1993 the Metropolitan Museum of Art presented a retrospective of Freudâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work.

10. After his father

died in 1970, his mother Luice attempted suicide. The concerned Lucian began having breakfast with his mother every single morning and then invited her to sit for a four-hour painting session. She sat more than 1,000 times resulting in nine portraits.

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newsworthy

The Astor Auction

Sotheby's will auction off cherished pieces once belonging to the late Brooke Astor this month. The sale, which will take place September 24 and 25, includes more than eight hundred pieces from the beloved philanthropist's collection. Known for her kindness, wit, and vivacity, Astor dedicated her later years to the Vincent Astor Foundation and was a strong supporter of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the New York Public Library, and many other cultural institutions. The auction will include fine and decorative art from her Park Avenue apartment and her Westchester estate, Holly Hill, as well as a selection of fine jewelry. Beginning September 17, the pieces will be on display at Sotheby's York Avenue galleries. From a charming portrait by Cecil Beaton to a glittering Van Cleef & Arpels lion brooch there is much to be admired and we can't wait to take a look! “If I go up to Harlem or down to Sixth Street, and I’m not dressed up or I’m not wearing my jewelry, then the people feel I’m talking down to them. People expect to see Mrs. Astor, not some dowdy old lady, and I don’t intend to disappoint.”

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6 7 5

The Matchbook Girl's Auction Picks 1. A Gold, Colored Diamond, Coral, and Ruby Lion Brooch 2. A Louis XV Style Six-Panel Screen 3. Extra Large Gold Bowl, Canvas, $55 4. A Pair of Louis XV Style Carved Giltwood Tabourets 5. A Pair of Chinese Export Porcelain Vases 6. A Group of Eight Orders, Medals, and Badges Awarded to John Jacob Astor 7. A Pair of Regency Style Pagoda-Form Bookcases 8. Portrait of Brooke Astor by Sir Cecil Beaton 9. A Pair of Meissen Pugs 10. A Pair of Gold and Diamond Bowknot Earclips 11. A Very Dry Martini by Charles Baskerville 12. A George II Silver Coffee Pot

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the icon

The Smoking Slipper Be they velvet or studded, the smoking slipper is a classic here to stay. A roundup of our favorites this season...

S t u bbs & W o o t t o n f o r J .C r e w, J .C r e w, $400

Fuchsia Suede Loafers, G a p, $40

Style blogger Kimberly Pesch of Eat.Sleep.Wear sports the slipper trend.

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Polka Dot Calf Hair Loafers, G a p, $50

Braxton F l at, B a n a n a R e p u b l i c , $120

Jimmy Choo Glitter Loafers, N e t-A -P o r t e r , $495

Sam Edelman As t e r , P i p e r l i m e , $150

Monogrammed S l i pp e r s , S t u bbs & W o o t t o n , $600

I va n k a T r u m p H a r l e , Z a pp o s , $140

Anne Klein Cemina, Z a p p o s , $89

Plaid Tuxedo Flat, Target, $25

Horse Needlepoint Loafer, By Pa i g e , $195

Steven Va l e n t i n e , Z a p p o s , $110

Nine West Pa n t o, Z a p p o s , $48 Jill Sander, Z a p p o s , $598

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CULTURE CLUB

May We Suggest...

Our picks in books, movies and music this September

During a season when several “major” male writers (including Junot Diaz and Michael Chabon) are about to drop weighty tomes, the buzz of the literary scene might just be swallowed up by one charming young woman – Brooklyn author Emma Straub. We all know the story of the actress from a small town who gets “discovered” in the whirlwind that is Hollywood, but what we rarely hear is what happens decades later. When the glitz, glamor and youthful looks fade, what exactly happens to yesteryears starlets? This question is at the heart of Emma Straub’s breathtaking debut novel, Laura Lamont's Life in Pictures.

On Our Shelf

Laura Lamont’s Life in Pictures, by Emma Straub (Riverhead Books) $27 Available September 4th

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When Elsa Emerson, the youngest of three sisters, escapes her Door County, Wisconsin roots amidst a family tragedy, she heads to Hollywood to be remade. As the daughter of Playhouse owners, a fascination with the stage was instilled in her at an early age. She becomes the exotic Laura Lamont – taking on a new name, accent, and appeal. The novel is part exploration of the Hollywood studio system and part fascination with Hollywood’s golden age, but we also follow our

heroine as she navigates the little tragedies of life and looks to find the balance between such disparate things as fame, family, love and aging. Straub presents this timeless tale with true heartfelt warmth throughout. It is brimming with details usually left dangling at the end of obituaries – everything that lacks the shine of celebrity and makes for real life. One of the most entertaining novels this fall, we can hardly wait to see what lies ahead for the talented Ms. Straub.

NW, by Zadie Smith (The Penguin Press) $27

Back with her first novel in seven years, Zadie Smith once again turns her talents to London with brilliant aplomb as she continues to focus on the shifting social worlds of the English -- specifically the lives of four friends who grew up in a council estate (public housing) in Caldwell. As some find success and others trouble, Smith hits her stride. Written with sentences so tender and fragile that you worry they may break, Smith’s lyrical gifts are on full display. But beware, she still has her razor sharp wit. With many similarities to her masterpiece, White Teeth, Smith thankfully believes in the maxim, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Telegraph Avenue, by Michael Chabon (Harper) $28

Any work by Michael Chabon (Mysteries of Pittsburgh, The Amazing Adventures of Cavalier and Klay) is sure to be highly anticipated, but Telegraph Avenue is receiving monumental buzz. Set on the border of Berkeley and Oakland, mainly in the vinyl obsessed record store of Brokeland records, the novel follows the story of business partners and friends Nat and Archy. When a former football star decides to “rebuild” the neighborhood with his Dogpile chain of stores, the neighbors fights back. Telegraph Avenue hums with a soul cadence as Chabon takes on such issues as race, love and family at the turn of the century.

Where’d you go Bernadette, by Maria Semple (Little, Brown and Co.) $26

This little gem of a novel is sure to win over the hearts of Matchbook girls everywhere. In Maria Semple’s latest novel, a daughter, Bee, goes in search for her eccentric and missing mother Bernadette who disappears on a trip to Antarctica. The agoraphobic and Seattlephobic Bernadette is a revolutionary architect to some, a loving wife and a complete disaster to others. As Bee goes in search of her mother, the story unfolds through a pastiche of emails, private documents, and official reports. Both heartwarming and absurdly hilarious, Where’d you Go Bernadette is a true hit. Available now

Available September 11

Available September 4

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CULTURE CLUB

On The Stereo Cat Power - Sun

Mumford & Sons - Babble

It's been six years since singer-songwriter Chan Marshall released original music and fans will be happy to have her back. With Sun she's taken a new electronicsynth direction and dwells in being and working alone. She composed all the songs, plays all the instruments, and sings all the lyrics herself.

Following 2010's Sigh No More, which sold more than two million copies, Babble's preorders have already nabbed the number one spot on iTunes. The songs on the band's new album were written on the road and recorded in England. We can't help but love the catchy new single "I Will Wait."

Available September 4 The XX - Coexist

Available September 24

The British band's eagerly awaited sophomore album (it's been over three years since their debut which went platinum) is said to be in keeping with their trademark melancholic sound. We've been enjoying the new single "Angels" here in the office. Available September 4

Why don't you...round up your girlfriends, have a cocktail, and head to the theater? 30

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At The Box Office The Perks of Being a Wallflower

We can't wait to see this coming-of-age tale starring Matchbook favorite Emma Watson. If it's half as endearing as the best-selling book by Stephen Chbosky, we're in for a treat! In theaters September 21 Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel

This eagerly awaited documentary on the legendary fashion editor is finally coming to the big screen. Vreeland's larger than life personality comes alive thanks to old footage of the editor herself as well as interviews with former friends and colleagues. Why don't you...round up your girlfriends, have a cocktail, and head to the theater? In theaters September 21

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mdmineralsonline.com Call 318.325.0600

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Text By Katie Armour

Remembering Vreeland

In her new book, Diana Vreeland After Diana Vreeland, Italian fashion critic and curator Maria Luisa Frisa explores the larger-than-life legacy of the iconic editor. We asked Frisa for a few insights on Vreeland’s bold taste in decor, her legacy across the pond, and what she’d be doing today.

Much has been written about

We love that there is an entire

Diana’s life and style. What

section devoted to “her homes

does your book aim to add to

and the development of her

the conversation?

style.” How would you describe

The book, which is also the catalogue to the exhibition curated with Judith Clark (Diana Vreeland After Diana Vreeland, Venice, Palazzo Fortuny, March 10-June 25, 2012), is not a work on Diana Vreeland herself, but a project devoted to her personal curatorial grammar. The idea is to express Vreeland’s personal visions on fashion and her ability to shape it, as a fashion editor during her Bazaar years, as an editor-in-chief during her Vogue years, as a fashion curator at the Met. 32

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Diana’s taste in decoration?

Flamboyant (to use an expression she’d probably use even today), excessive. Red was her favorite color after all. And she believed in a touch of bad taste. As she wrote in her autobiography D.V. published in 1984,

“Vulgarity is a very important ingredient in life. I’m a great believer in vulgarity – if it’s got vitality. A little bad taste is like a nice splash of paprika. We all need a splash of bad taste – it’s hearty, it’s healthy, it’s physical. I think we could use more of it. No taste is what I’m against.” She was the first fashion editor, a real stylist. And she was able to translate this attitude into everything she did, even in decoration. What was one thing you were surprised to learn about Diana?

The book and the exhibition helped me make clear how important Vreeland has been for fashion as a discipline. She has been the high

page 25: A corner of the “garden in hell,” Diana Vreeland’s New York apartment, which she furnished with the help of her designer friend Billy Baldwin. Photo Richard Champion. Page from the book edited by Paige Rense, Celebrity Homes: Architectural Digest Presents the Private Worlds of Thirty International Personalities. New York: The Viking Press, 1977. © Richard Champion, © The Viking Press

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CULTURE CLUB

priestess of fashion of the twentieth century, from the thirties when she invented the profession of the fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar, till her period at the Costume Institute. She not only shaped fashion magazines

as we know them today, but she also understood the cultural power of fashion. The themes of her exhibitions at the Met are the themes we still find in fashion exhibitions today. So, what really surprises me is how much

Is the fascination with Vreeland as fervent in Europe as

[right] page 227: Ingeborg, Day, “Diana Vreeland: A Velvet Hand in an Iron Glove.” Ms., August 1975, pp. 24-5. © Liberty Media for Women, LLC

her curatorial grammar is necessary today not only to understand fashion in itself and its stereotypes, but also to question what we can do now, as fashion curators, after her trailblazing work.

it is in the States? How has her legacy been preserved in Italy?

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[LEFT] page 210: Homage to Diana Vreeland paid by Josh Gosfield on the occasion of the opening of the exhibition Diana Vreeland: Immoderate Style curated by Richard Martin and Harold Koda (New York, The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, December 9, 1993-March 20, 1994). Page from The New Yorker, December 13, 1993. © Josh Gosfield, © Condé Nast

In Italy, DV was mainly remembered as a sort of fashion icon, but her complex work as editor and curator had been totally forgotten, in that there was just a vague idea of what she had achieved. It’s somehow funny, because Vreeland loved Italy. She tells a beautiful story on the magic of Piazza San Marco in the introduction for the catalogue of her exhibition “Man and the Horse.” (We opened our book with this quote and some pictures of Vreeland and Warhol sitting together in Piazza San Marco in 1973). We wanted to highlight not only Vreeland, but also her love for Italy and Italian fashion and style. It was necessary to re-establish her legacy, to make clear her contribution to fashion as we know it today.

What can you tell us about your experience curating the Diana exhibit at the fantastic Museo Fortuny in Venice?

I used magazines (Bazaar and Vogue from the Vreeland years) and references to Vreeland’s exhibitions and personal style. We wanted a venue that was somehow like her famous apartment in New York, her “garden in hell”. Heavily decorated, dramatic, alive. Palazzo Fortuny is perfect – it’s a house that has kept all the traces of its prestigious owner, and it has decorative elements very similar to the ones Vreeland chose for her own home (and furthermore, Vreeland loved the Fortuny gowns). Then, there are the dresses. The exhibition featured some extraordinary pieces from the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of New York, from the Cristobal Balenciaga Foundation in Getaria, from the Saint Laurent-Bergé Foundation in Paris. I think we managed to find beautiful and significant dresses – which were perfect reference for both Vreeland’s personal style and her exhibitions at the Met. We also had the chance to

ask for clothes from private collectors and from the archives of well known Italian fashion brands (which Vreeland loved). The Missoni knitted clothes in our exhibition were actually the ones Vreeland chose in 1971 to launch Missoni in the United States on the pages of Vogue. If Diana were still around

that we both have the same physical disability. Partly because of his disability he saw things that most people don’t see. I see all sorts of things that you don’t see.” Diana

Vreeland

After

Diana

Vreeland will be published by Rizzoli on September 4, 2012. IT

can

Amazon.

•

pre-ordered

today what do you think she’d be doing?

I think she would enjoy watching how important fashion exhibitions have become today – throughout the whole world. And maybe she would be back to her famous “Why don’t you…?” column (her very first job on Bazaar back in the thirties) through a blog or Twitter. Diana was famous for her outlandish

and

entertain-

ing statements. Do you have a favorite Diana quip?

I love the way she defined her visionary power in her book Allure published in 1980. She wrote: “I have astigmatism, like El Greco. I’m not comparing myself with El Greco for a minute, except

“A little bad taste is like a nice splash of paprika. We all need a splash of bad taste– it’s hearty, it’s healthy, it’s physical. I think we could use more of it. No taste is what I’m against.”

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CULTURE CLUB

Text By Katie Armour

Duke’s Hawaiian Paradise

Situated majestically on Honolulu’s Diamond Head peninsula, Shangri La was once the private estate of American heiress and philanthropist Doris Duke. Much of the property’s rare collection of Islamic art and design was sourced by Duke herself during her travels in the Middle East. Now, thanks to the efforts of curators Thomas Mellins and Donald Albrecht, one can read the full story in the soon to be released Doris Duke’s Shangri La: A House in Paradise. We caught up with Mellins and Albrecht to learn more about Duke’s passion for history, travel, and design. What was it about Islamic design that first intrigued Duke?

Exactly what attracted Doris Duke to the art and architecture of the Islamic world is unclear, but we do know that while Duke was likely to have seen significant examples of the Islamic arts in her youth, and she was very familiar with Islamic-inspired houses in the exclusive resort community of Palm Beach. It was on her around-theworld honeymoon that her life-long passion began in earnest. Duke and her husband James Cromwell visited the Taj Mahal on the trip, and like so many be36

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fore them, they fell under the spell of that Mughal Era masterpiece. Unlike others, however, Duke and Cromwell immediately translated their fascination into architectural plans for a house addition they dubbed the “Mughal Suite.” The suite, though never design as originally

planned, became the seed of Shangri La. Why do you think she chose Hawaii and specifically Diamond Head as the location for her estate?

Duke had originally planned to build the house in Palm Beach, but once she visited Hawaii, the last stop of her 1935 honeymoon trip, she decided to build there. Perhaps the decision to change locations was Duke’s way of removing herself from the glare of celebrity that hounded her throughout the honeymoon. When Duke and her husband Cromwell were

the humidity and sea air, affected both the construction and the long-term care of the house. When did you first visit the estate and what inspired you to write about it?

Doris Duke created a foundation, the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art, the mission of which is use of the house’s collections to increase awareness and appreciation among the general public of Islamic decorative Photo by Martin Munkacsi, 1939. Shangri La, Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art. Doris Duke Charitable Foundation Historical Archives, David M. Rubenstein Rare Book & Manuscript Library, Duke University, Durham, North Carolina

1930s, and while Duke continued to make significant changes and additions to both the house and her collections through the 1970s, the original acquisitions had to be shipped by boat. We are not aware of any special conditions regarding their passage—such shipThe pieces had a long journey. safe Can you touch on how she had ments were not usual for inthings transported from the stitutions and exceptionally wealthy individuals at the Middle East to Honolulu? time—but once in Hawaii, The house was built in the the climate, and particularly In Hawaii, a local newspaper wrote: “Honolulu has made a hit with the Cromwells, because it has left them alone.” The site is especially grand as it overlooks the ocean with Diamond Head visible in the distance.

arts. We were approached by the Duke foundation to do both a traveling show and book in order to fulfill the same goal for people unable to visit Shangri La. We visited in the summer of 2010, when we spent many days there. We learned that only by experiencing the house, can one truly appreciate its integration of architecture, landscape and decorative arts, which is a key theme of the show. matchbook

CULTURE CLUB

Tim Street-Porter © Tim Street-Porter 2011. Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art, Honolulu, Hawai‘i

Is there one piece from her extensive collection that you are most in awe of?

That’s a little bit like asking a musician if he or she has a favorite note; it’s the way the elements that comprise Shangri La all fit together to form a seamless integration of architecture, landscape, and Islamic art, that really intrigues us. Having said that, if forced to choose, there are two objects in the exhibition that we found particularly beautiful and expressive of Shangri La’s complexity. One is a seventeenth-century Turkish tile panel, showing the intricate decorative patterns inspired by natural forms for which Islamic art is well known. 38

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The other object is a tile mosaic lunette that Doris Duke commissioned from a workshop in Ishfahan, Iran, specifically for the house. We were struck how Duke’s how mix of “authentic” and the newly made objects reflected her confidence and sense of freedom as a collector. Lastly, what is one thing readers may be surprised to learn about Duke or her Islamic art collection?

At first, Shangri La seems to be little more than the architectural product of an heiress pursuing her own highly eccentric ideal of a remote and exotic dream house. Located approximately 2,500 miles from the American main-

land, Shangri La was both geographically and socially distant from the wealthy enclaves of Palm Beach and Newport that Duke and her circle chose for retreat. Shangri La, with its heady infusion of Islamic collections and references, also seems stylistically out of character for Duke, the daughter of a Gilded-Age titan, raised as she was in a Beaux-Arts mansion on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. Yet, in conceiving and implementing plans for Shangri La, Duke was no dilettante. Over many decades, she pursued a deep interest in the cultures of the Islamic worlds, taking extensive travels, consulting with a broad network of individuals from scholars to dealers, and thus far exceeding the concerns of someone seeking only to decorate a hide-away. Doris Duke’s Shangri La: A House in Paradise will be released on September 4th by Rizzoli and is available for pre-order on Amazon.

•

Tim Street-Porter © Tim Street-Porter 2011. Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art, Honolulu, Hawai‘i

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ETIQUETTE

Dear Matchbook,

I’m dreading this, but one of my must-do-to-dos is to break up with my hair stylist. I’m just not feeling

the love anymore and I

think it’s mutual!

Hair break-ups are tough stuff ! For this one, I went straight to the hair experts at Haus Salon who are full of style and grace. Here’s what my fab stylist and friend, Shantae Enoch, had to say: “The general consensus at Haus is that we love it when people are politely honest with us. Although we hate to see some people go, we understand that sometimes price, location, or lack of getting what you want can be a determining factor in leaving your

stylist. We prefer clients to let us know that they are in fact leaving and a brief explanation why. We may even have a suggestion for someone else we think you would love! Although some might think it awkward at first, we actually prefer when you stay at the same salon. This way we can still chat with you when you are in and know you are getting what you need.”

Our mothers told us good girls are sugar and spice and everything nice. Society says nice won’t get you a corner

office. How can a successful,

strong woman be kind and still finish first?

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The lesser-known fact about kindness is that being nice is also incredibly practical. Kindness begets kindness. Meaning when you are kind, the world is kind back. You will be sat at extra great

#fabulouslysocial Party Ideas for September 2

tables, you will be given an extra generous latte, co-workers will go the extra mile. The key to kindness nirvana is authenticity. Having it come from a good place. And the best way to keep it real is to make sure you start by expressing your true feelings, wants and needs. Kindness can be a powerfully awesome practice, but only when doing good for others doesn’t do harm to you.

Apple Picking Party

Orchard by day, (spiked) cider & apple-flavored menu by night. It’s an all-day event! Farm to Table Dinner Party

September brings about the most amazing harvest. Hit the local farmers market/stands & serve what’s fresh on an outdoor table in the middle of your backyard.

•

Erin Newkirk is the CEO and Co-Founder of Red Stamp, a company on a mission to make relationships stronger. For real-time tips on being #fabulouslysocial Download the free, awardwinning Red Stamp app from the iTunes App Store - Like Red Stamp on Facebook - Or drop Erin a tweet at @redstamp_ erin or an email at erin@redstamp.com. She’d love to hear from you!

Mason Pearson Hair Brush, Barneys, $170 • Letterpress Print, Sugar Paper, $40 • Brown Plaid Wool Throw, Williams-Sonoma, $199 • Rustic White Pitcher, Wisteria, $19

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gallery

September Exhibition: Autumn Awakening

cozy autumnal tones usher in fall

3 4

1. Reigning Queens: Queen Margrethe II of Denmark by Andy Warhol, Art.com, $10 2. Poppies by Jasmin Awad, Saatchi Online, $49 3. Collocation No. 14 by Mickey Smith, 20x200, $60 4. Red Coat by Steven Beckly, Steven Beckly Art Photography, $65 5. Chairman of the Board by Helen Frankenthaler, Art.com, $160 6. The Yellow Trench by Jessica Durrant, Jessica's Little Shop of Illustrations, $25 7. Two for the Road by Stefan Hengst, Art We Love, $25 8. Hup, Two, Three, Four by Shelby Dillon, Zatista, $75 9. Interieur Rouge by Henri Matisse, Art.com, $45 10. Convection by Alexander Calder, Art.com, $130 11. Chairs at the Luxembourg Gardens by Anne Lucas, Souris Film Prints, $22 12. Marilyn Monroe with Orange Roses by Bert Stern, Artspace, $2,750 13. Homage to the Square by Josef Albers, Art.com, $150

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11 13

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TECH SMART

Connie Wong, founder of Moderne Press

Gadget Girl

Public Relations maven Connie Wong is one hardworking Matchbook girl! As president and founder of boutique public relations company Moderne Press, Connie works around the clock to get her clients’ products in front of top editors from coast to coast. One day she’s emailing images of Elva Fields' latest baubles and the next she’s on the phone spreading word of hip new eyewear company Mezzmer. We paid a visit to the multi-tasking maven at her San Francisco headquarters and got the dish on the gadgets that keep her on the ball.

on connie’s wish list This DSLR has intuitive, easy-to-use controls, and would be handy to shoot client products in a pinch! D5100 Camera, Nikon, $850

I started out my PR career in the beauty industry, so I have an appreciation for any beauty-related products that truly work. T3 dryers cut drying time in half, and this version is still compact enough for travel. I lost my last T3 dryer to luggage damage, and haven’t gotten around to replacing it yet. T3 Featherweight Journey, Sephora, $130

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connie’s favorite gadgets I’m currently obsessed with this app…with so many filters, snapping photos has never been so fun or easy! You can follow me @modernepress Instagram, iTunes, Free This candy red mixer is not only functional for making everything from pizza dough to cookies, but also sits pretty on my kitchen counter as décor when it’s not being used.  KitchenAid Stand Mixer, Zappos, $399

Flipboard aggregates content from all around the web and social apps, and helps me stay on top of reading all my mustread blogs and websites on a daily basis.  Flipboard, Free

Our team uses Flow to get organized! It allows me to assign tasks easily, see deadlines at a glance, and plan for the upcoming months. All of the information is centralized, so the entire team stays in sync.  Flow, Free Trial

 With the rapid growth of online media and iPad-specific digital content, an iPad became a necessity for work. As a bonus, it is great for travel – much more compact than a laptop! iPad, Apple, $499

Who doesn’t love Pinterest? It’s such a great resource for inspiration, sharing my favorite finds as well as discovering new products, brands and designers! Pinterest, Free matchbook

PORTRAIT OF A LADY

Text by Amelia Moye

Southern Darling

Margaret Mitchell was born just after the turn of the century in Atlanta, Georgia. Her father, Eugene, was an attorney and proud historian of the southern city their family had inhabited since its earliest days. There in Atlanta, Margaret made her society debut before leaving for Massachusetts to attend Smith College. After one year she was forced to return home due to the death of her mother, Maybelle. In 1922 Margaret landed a job at The Atlanta Journal Sunday Magazine and began penning articles under the name Peggy Mitchell. She eventually met and married a retired advertising manager, John R. Marsh, and in 1926, due to an injured ankle, became an Atlanta housewife.

And so the book began. For nine years Margaret penned what would eventually become Gone With the Wind, one of the best-selling American novels of all time. She typed some pages while others were strewn about the house handwritten on the back of laundry lists. She had difficulty writing the beginning of things, so she began with the last chapter and then worked backward. Over lunch with H.S. Latham, a vice president of the Macmillan Company, a friend mentioned that Peggy had written a book. 46

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copies (it was, after all, the heart of the Depression) exceeded her wildest dreams. In its first six months her novel sold over a million copies. Scarlett Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Hara and Rhett Butler became beloved characters around the world and in 1937 Mitchell won the Pulitzer Prize. The motion picture starring Vivien Leigh and Clark Gable premiered in 1939 and quickly became the most popular movie in America. By 1949 the book had sold eight million copies in thirty lanWhat Mitchell had hoped guages in forty countries and would sell a humble 5,000 Mitchell found herself a very Peggy shrugged off the idea of showing it to him, but later that evening she had a change of heart and drove her manuscript to Lathamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hotel. He bought a new, bigger bookcase to transport the lengthy manuscript (the finished novel was 1,037 pages) and later that week wired Mitchell to say he would publish it. Over the course of six months revisions were made, and on June 30, 1936, Gone With The Wind arrived in bookstores.

wealthy woman. The success came with a price tag however and Mitchell often felt overwhelmed by the fame. She never published a second novel, explaining that "being the author of Gone With the Wind is a full-time job.”

The end of Mitchell’s great success story is a sad one. While crossing Peachtree Street with her husband on the way to the local movie theater, the cherished author was struck by an automobile. Mitchell was rushed to the hospital but never regained consciousness. She died five

days later at the age of fortynine and the Georgia governor ordered the State Capitol’s flag lowered to half-staff until the funeral took place. America had lost their southern hero –Margaret Mitchell, the newspaper girl with novel dreams.

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KINDRED SPIRIT

Margaret Mitchell REIMAGINED FOR A NEW AGE

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classic staples for your closet

1. Splendid Polka-dot Jersey Dress, Net-A-Porter, $130 2. Tiny Dot Tights, J.Crew, $23 3. Tortoise Barette, J.Crew, $15 4. Roped In Earrings, Nordstrom, $58 5. Sundry Retro Brooch, Anthropologie, $38 6. Ferragamo Vara in Tan, Zappos Couture, $395 7. Peter Pan Collar Trench, Topshop, $158 8. Legacy Leather Penny Shoulder Purse, Coach, $198

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5 1

3 6 4 2

9 11

your best face forward

1. Medium Floral Pouch, C. Wonder, $44 2. Deborah Lippmann Modern Love Nail Lacquer, Nordstrom, $16 3. Pressed Mineral Blush in Chiffon, M.D. Minerals, $28 4. Annick Goutal Petite Cherie Eau de Toilette, Barneys, $85 5. D. Porthault Shower Cap, Sue Fisher King, $75 6. Marvis Jasmin Mint Toothpaste, Barneys, $12 7. NARS American Dream Eyeshadow Palette, Nordstrom, $55 8. Vanilla Bean Lip Gloss in Currant, M.D. Minerals, $25 9. Clinique Stay-Matte Oil-Free Makeup, Sephora, $23 10. Philosophy Fresh Cream Body Lotion, Nordstrom, $16 11. Moschitto Designs Horse Compact, Nordstrom, $32

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KINDRED SPIRIT

4 3

7 8

modern classics for your abode

1. Kathy Ireland Venezia Chandelier, Lamps Plus, $399 2. Queen Anne Mirror, Wisteria, $249 3. Frankly My Dear Print, Spoiled Royal Studio, $15 4. Wandering Pleats Curtain, Anthropologie, $148 5. Stella Floor Lamp, Urban Outfitters, $129 6. Elton Settee, West Elm, from $594 7. Faux Fur Pillow Cover, C. Wonder, $38 8. Wool Throw, C. Wonder, $98 9. Cortland Ottoman, Crate & Barrel, $599

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4 7 6

odds and ends to spruce up any space

1.Jazz Era Jewelry Box, Anthropologie, $68 2. Gone with the Wind, Amazon, $12 3. Burled Wood Frames, Williams-Sonoma, from $28 4. True Writer Fountain Pen, Levenger, $69 5. Vintage Typewriter Noteset, Sugar Paper, $18 6. Resin Tray, C. Wonder, $68 7. Rebecca Minkoff Ostrich iPhone Case, Shopbop, $58 8. Hand-Glazed Grove Vase, Wisteria, $44 9. Gentry Julep Cup, Reed & Barton, $65 10. Take Note Notebook, C. Wonder, $10

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BEAUTY COUNTER

a roundup of rich beauty inspirations for fall

Burgundy Beauty

1 2

4 5

1. Estée Lauder Metal Mania Pure Color Nail Lacquer in Smashed, Nordstrom, $20 2. Kevyn Aucoin Mini Brush Set, Barneys, $140 3. Lips by Sara Singh, Stampa, $100 4. Rebecca Minkoff Bag of Tricks, Nordstrom, $75 5. Tainted Love Shea Butter Handcreme, Barneys, $22 6. NARS Trio Eyeshadow in Douce France, Barneys, $45 7. Lipstick Queen Sinner in Rouge, Anthropologie, $18 8. Diptyque Tubéreuse Colored Candle, Barneys, $90 9. Vera Wang Lovestruck Eau de Parfum, 1.7 oz , Macy's, $68 10. How to Look Expensive, Amazon, $15 11. In Love Perfumed Shower Gel, Lollia, $22 12. MAC Styleseeker Lipglass in Eclectic Edge, Nordstrom, $15 13. Vanilla Bean Lip Gloss in Rum Runner, M.D. Minerals, $25 14. Polka Dot Compact, Forever 21, $3 52

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SwellCaroline ADDICTIVE COSTUME JEWELRY

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CHIT CHAT

“Cable knit

sweaters - comfy, cozy, and classic.

”

“So many things I love for fall, but I'm especially pumped for my cashmere wrap.”

@MaryKotynski

“Hot cider! My favorite fall accessory. ” @JenniferScottSpencer

@JillJacquith

in your words

@MatchbookMag: Tell us, what item are you most excited to dig out of your wardrobe this fall? #chitchat

“Tall boots paired with a fisherman knit sweater.” @RenéeLevesque

“Vintage Pendleton skirts!” @MaryBethLimbertDominello

“Anything forest/ emerald green, burnt orange, and navy!” @DanielleRubino

“My vintage coats are begging for the leaves to turn.” @SaraKateHuff

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“My pink wool swing coat and polka dot cardigan!” @VivianPeets

“The awesome faux-fur leopard coat I made last year.”

“The wool sweaters I swiped from my dad and cowboy boots #cozy”

@MaudiaDeeLanzotti

@LaceyBraun

“I cannot wait to breakout my riding boots!” @EveryDayeTm

“Patent penny loafers and cashmere in every color!” @HelloStately

“My Grandma's yellow raincoat, with polka-dotted belt.” @betsypeggy

“My emerald green

“Red hunter wellies

& oversized mustard colored knits! (worn together, naturally)

”

@byAndriaParker

“Black skinnies,

oversized, chunky cardigans, riding boots and a Starbucks Pumpkin Spice Latte!

pea coat is ready for some cooler weather.

”

@BrittneyGuest

@FunnyLovelySocial matchbook

How To...

Let’s face it, fashion week (inspiring though it may be) can also be a bit overwhelming. We’ve broken it down to the basics so you can be in the know whether you’re f ront row or streaming online.

"Every spring, the women of New York leave the foolish choices of their past behind and look forward to the future. This is known as Fashion Week.” C a r r i e B r a d s h a w, Sex and the City

The Big Four Fashion week is celebrated in cities throughout the world, but these four fashion capitals have long ruled the runway. They show in the same order every season, always beginning in New York. NEW YORK

Dates: September 6-13, 2012 Show Sampling: Ralph Lauren, Diane Von Furstenberg, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta LONDON

September 14-18, 2012 Show Sampling: Vivienne Westwood, Burberry Prorsum, Temperley London, Mulberry MILAN

Did you know? There are more than 100 shows or presentations during New York Fashion Week. While the big name designers show at Lincoln Center tons of talented smaller labels show offsite at various locations around the city.

Dates: September 18-25, 2012 Show Sampling: Gucci, Fendi, Prada, Versace, Marni, Missoni PARIS

September 25 - October 3, 2012 Show Sampling: Chanel, Chloe, Celine, Hermes, Louis Vuitton

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how to...

Fashion Week Necessities the must-haves in every attendee’s bag 1.Watch

So you’re on time 2.Pen

For taking notes 3. Notebook

For storing your notes 4. Business Cards

For networking

5. Swiss Army Knife

For fashion emergencies 6. Glasses

So you don’t miss the details 7. Phone

For tweeting 8. Camera

For your blog 9. Band-Aids

For your tired feet 10. Red lipstick

For extra confidence ITEMS: Michael Kors Two-Tone Runway Watch, Shopbop, $250 • Bullet Pen, Cooper Hewitt, $40 • Smythson Runway Notebook, Net-A-Porter, $135 • Leather Card Case, Graphic Image, $44 • Victorinox Swiss Army Knife, Ann Mashburn, $24 • Thatcher Glasses, Warby Parker, $95 • Kate Spade Garance Dore iPhone Case, Zappos Couture, $40 • Leica D-LUX 5 Digital Camera, B&H Photo, $749 • Yves Saint Laurent Lip Color in Le Rouge, Nordstrom, $32

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Ready-to-Wear Versus Haute Couture Ready-to-Wear

Also known as “pret-a-porter,” this is designer clothing that is made in standard sizes and is ready for the customer to wear. Pieces are sold online, in boutiques, and high-end department stores. Unlike haute couture, there is no custom fitting involved. Haute Couture

The literal translation is “high dressmaking.” The term, though used rather loosely these days, is in fact an official name that can only be used by designers meeting the strict standards set by the Chambre de commerce et d’industrie de Paris. Each piece is made f rom scratch for a specific customer and as many as 400 hours can be spent on one dress. Prices range anywhere f rom the tens of thousands to over $100,000 for a single piece. Some of our favorites fashion houses still making haute couture today are Chanel, Valentino, Christian Dior, and Givenchy.

Did you know?

The Seasons Shows take place well in advance of the actual season so buyers have time to place orders and have new merchandise in stores. This also allows editors time to write about upcoming trends for the new season. FALL

on runway in February SPRING

on runway in September RESORT/CRUISE

on runway in June PRE-FALL

on runway in December HAUTE COUTURE Spring/ Summer:

on runway in January HAUTE COUTURE Fall/ Winter:

on runway in July

Despite the months of preparation that goes into each collection, the average runway show lasts only 11 minutes. matchbook

how to...

The First Fashion Week The world’s first fashion week took place in New York in 1943. Legendary fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert organized it to draw attention to American designers during the war as Parisian fashions were suddenly hard to come by. It was originally called “Press Week.”

Reading List

The Little Dictionary of Fashion, Amazon, $14 100 Unforgettable Dresses, Amazon, $22

In Fashion, Amazon, $12 The Fashion Book Mini Edition, Amazon, $9

Fashion Show, Amazon, $65

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How to Pronounce... tricky pronunciations deciphered Anna Sui:

Manolo Blahnik:

Ah-na SWEE

Ma-no-low Blah-nick

Ahn-ya HEIND-march

Mar-KAY-sa

Aza-deen A-LYE-a

Mew-Mew

Anya Hindmarch: Azzedine Alaia: Balenciaga:

Marchesa: Miu Miu:

Proenza Schouler:

Bah-lin-see-AH-gah

Pro-EHN-za SKOO-ler

Bahl-mah

RHO-shas

Caro-leena Ey-reh-ra

Ro-dar-tay

Balmain:

Carolina Herrera:

Christian Louboutin:

Rochas:

Rodarte:

Sonia Rykiel:

Kree-styan Loo-boo-tahn

Saun-ya Ree-kee-eel

Jhee-VON-shee

Ta-koon

Givenchy: Hermès:

Thakoon:

Yohji Yamamoto:

AIR-mehz

YO-jee Ya-ma-moto

Air-vay Lay-jay

Eve Sane LAUR-ahn

Lon-VAUN

Zac Poe-zen

Hervé Léger: Lanvin:

Yves Saint Laurent: Zac Posen:

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CULTURE CLUB

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a well g roomed l if e equestrian inspired looks for fall...

Location: J-Six

Equestrian Center, Benson AZ

Creative Direction:

Sydney Ballesteros + Puspa Lohmeyer Photography: Puspa Lohmeyer Fashion Styling: Sydney Ballesteros Prop Styling: Ed Smith Makeup: Tangie Duffey Model: Hannah Brzezinski {Ford} Vintage clothing: Black Cat Vintage, How Sweet It Was Vintage, Desert Vintage, Buffalo Exchange

CULTURE CLUB

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CULTURE CLUB

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CULTURE CLUB

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CULTURE CLUB

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CULTURE CLUB

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CULTURE CLUB

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CULTURE CLUB

The Matchbook Girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wel l g r o o m e d picks fo r fa l l 6

1 3

5 9

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market list

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1. Black 3/4 Sleeve Blazer, Dorothy Perkins, $55 2. Kate Spade New York Octagonal Silk Scarf, Zappos, $65 3. Leather Tote in Yellow, Barneys, $585 4. Frye Women's Dorado Riding Boots, Shoes.com, $458 5. Malene Birger Printed Silk-Twill Pants, Net-A-Porter, $395 6. Fogal 30 Denier Opaque Pantyhose, Barneys, $43 7. Buxom Lash Waterproof Mascara, Sephora, $19 8. Cast Metal Horse Head Table Lamp, Black, West Elm, $50 9. Red Square Buckle Jeans Belt, Dorothy Perkins, $5 10. Sue Devitt Limited Edition Illuminating Eye Shadow Quad in Icelandic Fjord, Beauty.com, $38 11. ASOS T-Shirt Dress In Paisley Floral Print, ASOS, $38 12. Skinny Enamel Buck, Juicy Couture, $49 13. Michael Kors Buckle Bangle Set, Shopbop, $95 14. Pink Pussybow Blouse, Dorothy Perkins, $29 15. Orelia Tiny Horseshoe Stud Earrings, ASOS, $17 16. Tom Ford Lip Color in Indian Rose, Bloomingdale's, $48 17. Collection of Large Antique Silver-plate Trophies, Griffin Trading Co., $725

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WRITTEN BY

Katie Armour photography by

Carol Dronsfield

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she goes by the name Happy and it’s short for Harriet. For years I’d saved a magazine clipping featuring her work in my inspiration archives and when a friend mentioned a Brooklyn artist named Happy was painting her wedding invitations it seemed like fate. Happy invited us (or did we invite ourselves...?) over to her Fort Greene apartment in a brownstone on one of those haphazardly charming, Woody Allen-esque, tree-lined streets. Her trusty canine friend, Tramp, ambled down the stairs to greet us. Happy opened the door donning zebra stripes. I had a feeling we would get along. To say Happy Menocal is likable is an understatement. She’s refreshingly honest and wickedly funny and she insists you eat chocolate chip cookies (which she admits she bought, didn’t bake, making her all the more likable in my book). Did I mention that she locked us all out of her house mid-shoot? Oh Happy, I forget my keys all the time too! Matchbook girls, meet the girl with the best velvet loafer collection I ever did see, the lovely Ms. Menocal. 80

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S o y o u g o t y o u r s ta r t in advertising. Tell me a b o u t t h at.

It was really fun. I worked really hard.I did it for four or five years. I had been drawing lots of story boards for commercials and I started getting outside jobs from other directors. Most of the time it was like, a beer commercial... [laughs] 82

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Did you go into the job knowing how to do story boards?

I didn’t know anything. I made collages with an xacto and magazines because I didn’t have Photoshop. I thought I was going to be an art director. I was actually the writer, but being a writer you’re not writing, you’re coming up with ideas. It’s so fun, sitting in a

room eating Chinese food staying up all night. I loved working there. s o y o u e v e n t u a l ly s ta r t e d d r aw i n g s t o r y b o a r d s . Had you studied art?

I had no real formal training in drawing, but my mom was a painter so I sort of felt like I could do it. I went to schools where everyone was so encouraging and there

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was this casual air of “you’re good at drawing,” so I just identified myself that way. If you look at my fourth grade drawings they’re not that good – they’re like every other fourth grader's. Okay, maybe they were like ten percent more imaginative than the average fourth grader. [laughs] I wasn’t like “a talent.” And how did you settle on wat e r c o l o r a s y o u r m e d ium of choice?

I don’t really remember. I didn’t know enough about drawing and perspective to rely on line. So I just abandoned the line. I was always really good with color. I’d always seen color well and been kinda ballsy about what colors to wear. But if I was, like, playing Pictionary I would not have an advantage on you. A c t u a l ly I ’ m p r e t t y s u r e y o u w o u l d ! S o, y o u ’ v e pa i n t e d e v e r y t h i n g f r o m p e t p o rt r a i t s t o m ata d o r s – w h at ’ s y o u r fav o r i t e p i e c e y o u ’ v e ever made?

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My dog sculpture! [Right] I’m really proud of that. It has a little armature inside made of paperclips. I made it in Sculpey from the craft store and then I used enamel paint to make it look like porcelain. I love all that stuff, you know those Staffordshire spaniels...?

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I had no real formal training in drawing, but my mom was a painter so I sort of felt like I could do it.â&#x20AC;?

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Yes! I’m obsessed with t h o s e . I h av e a l i t t l e pa i r . So who are some artists you admire?

I love David Hockney. I love Whistler. There are four really tall Whistlers at the Whitney Museum. They’re floor length portraits – they are my favorite paintings in the world. I love Sargent. And con86

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temporary? Everything Jeff Koons does is just so fun. I loved the big puppy. I like John Currin. I love Lucian Freud. Oh, and I loved the Ellsworth Kelly plant drawings at the Met. They made me want to rethink everything I’m doing. T h at wa s a g r e at e x h i b i t. Now tell me a bit about B r o o k lyn . W h e r e s h o u l d I g o t o e at ?

My favorite restaurant by far is in Bushwick, it’s called Roberta’s. It’s the best place. It’s like a surf shack that they made into a really well executed restaurant. The food is excellent. They grow stuff on their roof. It’s so good. There’s also a restaurant in Red Hook that I really like called Pok Pok. I think it’s Thai. I

tip!

H a p p y ’ s Fav o r i t e B r o o k ly n E at e r i e s :

R o b e r ta’ s (Bushwick) robertaspizza.com Pok Pok

(Red Hook) pokpokny.com

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should fact check that. They have amazing wings. [Note: We checked, it’s Thai] I ’ l l h av e t o c h e c k t h e m o u t. S o w h at a r e y o u doing when you’re not pa i n t i n g ?

I love Fort Greene Park. I play tennis in the park on the public courts. I’m really bad, but I’m getting there. I like to think of myself as someone who plays tennis. Y o u ’ r e h i l a r i o u s . H av e y o u a lway s l i v e d i n B r o o k ly n ?

I’ve lived all over the city. I’ve lived in Greenpoint. I lived in Bushwick. And then I lived in Spanish Harlem on 101st Street. And then my last place was a studio on Bank Street that didn’t have a kitchen. It had a college kid fridge and a burner. It was so cute. It looked out on this garden that had a big cherry blossom tree. But my neighbors listened to techno and there was no kitchen sink. S o u n d s f u n . N o w l e t ’ s c h at about clothes. How would you describe your st yle?

I think there are two conversations — one is what would I wear if I had the resources and the other is what do I wear. I spent all my clothing budget on two pairs of Acne white high-waisted jeans and I wore them all summer. 88

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;I feel lucky that I have something that I can do forever. And it makes people happy.â&#x20AC;?

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Usually I just wear white t-shirts from the Gap. Oh and I love bandanas. I love tying my hair up in a bandana. I think of myself as really girly, but I think my friends would say I’m more tomboy. I don’t wear a lot of make-up. I’m not quite comfortable in heels. I’ve never like fetishized an amazing shoe. 90

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T h at ’ s o k ay, s t i c k w i t h your fa b u l o u s v e lv e t loafers. L ast but not least, w h at d o y o u l i k e m o s t about being an artist?

It’s fun for the ego. [laughs] Really though, everything I make is directly associated with me and my personality. It’s like I’m getting rewarded every time I get positive feedback. A lot of jobs aren’t like that.

You could be a fire fighter or a doctor and kicking ass and no one is like, “You’re amazing!” I watch people getting older — like I look at my grandmother and I feel lucky that I have something that I can do forever. And it makes people happy.

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Happy’s Matchbook Questionnaire Tea or coffee?

Seltzer (or almost anything fizzy) beauty products that make outlandish promises

I c o l l e c t. . .

Fav o r i t e c i t y ?

New York

S p r i n g o r fa l l ?

Spring

Bloom of choice?

Carnations could use the publicity St yle icon?

I admire simplicity and people who stick to their guns, like Johnny Cash all in black. Linens?

D. Porthault rummage sale C h i n a pat t e r n ?

Blue and white hodge podge I’m lusting after...

a pair of Nike ID sneakers in all silver. Most prized possession?

My Katharine Barnwell leopard. I learned everything from her. Girl crush?

Parker Posey

Boy crush?

Eddie Murphy circa “Coming to America”. Maniac grin, pure exuberance.

Sleep in, work for a couple hours, find something to eat with my husband, John. I like when we’re both home working onour respective things (he’s a journalist), and the house sort of rumbles with our tandem little engines of productivity. On weekends...

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CULTURE CLUB

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M ACK

Y T EN B WRIT R AN HO ENZI E

D N EYO R I E TH

T S E ILD

S M A DRE BY APHY R G O RAS P H OT R CAR E P O CO

Derek Fagerstrom and Lauren Smith met in college and collaborated on term papers before they ever dreamed of getting married and starting a business. Eighteen years later, their labor of love has a busy San Francisco storefront, a thriving e-commerce site, and an upcoming collaboration with Target. Here the dynamic duo behind The Curiosity Shoppe tells us what itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like to work with your spouse and what to expect from their Americana-inspired collection, hitting Target stores September 9.

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CU L TURE C L UB

i lt on d u s is b u un siness l d aro le bu the woryo u get .â&#x20AC;? who â&#x20AC;&#x153; O u r u s abo u t le c u rio S an F ranciscois possib being an d in anything that sense the

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the bay area and wanted to experiment with a new place business, which is both a brick- after graduation so we lived and-mortar and online store. in New York for eight years. What about San Francisco But sometimes you don’t apmade it the right place for the preciate where you’re from Curiosity Shoppe? until you leave! LAUREN: We both grew up in Derek: San Francisco is a place You moved from New York to

San Francisco to launch your

that’s very open to experimentation and trying new things. Our whole business is built on being curious about the world around us and in San Francisco you get the sense that anything is possible. We could apply the lessons we learned working in matchbook

New York to something totally fresh and new. The small business community is so supportive here — everyone is rooting for everyone else and shops in each other’s shops! It’s great that you’ve created such a collaborative atmosphere around your business. When you met during your freshman year of college, did you have any inkling this is

as our own personal interests and share that with a much larger audience. Lauren: It got us to really think back to experiences we’ve had together. When we got married we took a road trip through Yellowstone in the early fall and that inspired so much of what we did for Target: Americana, travel, picking up tchotchkes to bring home with you...

where you’d wind up?

Do you have a favorite piece in

Derek:

the collection?

We’ve been together for eighteen years at this point and we’ve always had so much in common. Part of our relationship is a love of learning and trying new things. We curated art shows together in college and spent a few years abroad curating shows in Italy. The Curiosity Shoppe was a very obvious culmination of all those years working with artists and designers. You’ve just created a capsule collection for Target that hits stores on September 9. How did that come to be?

We’ve been fans of Target forever so it was kind of this surreal dream come true for us. This collection is a way to represent the spirit of The Curiosity Shoppe as well Derek:

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There’s this big ceramic serving bowl that I love. It has an arrow motif that was inspired by vintage road maps we’ve had. Derek: There’s a lot of beautiful wood in the collection. I think my favorite is a cutting board in the shape of the United States. You could put it on your table for serving cheese or hang it on your wall as art! That was the great thing about working with Target. Their attitude is very much, “The sky’s the limit! Go for it!” Everything is fun, interesting, and functional. Lauren:

We are dying to see everything! In addition to your shop and

the

Target,

collection

you

run

the

Crafts

for blog

Smarts

and

work as

creative directors

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CU L TURE C L UB

makes it easy and fun to collaborate. We work on with your spouse on so many different parts of the busiprojects? ness but the overall vision is Lauren: Honestly I can’t something we’ve created and imagine it any other way! In tweaked over time. college we took classes and worked on term projects to- You carry so many playful gether and now it’s become trinkets, from animal-shaped second nature. boxes to lego-shaped USB Derek: There’s nobody whose drives. How do you know opinion I trust or respect when an item is a good fit for more than Lauren’s, which your customers? tors

for

Pop-Up

Magazine.

What’s it like collaborating

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We love objects with a sense of humor or wit. A lot of times customers come into the shop and we see them laughing when they discover a new product. That sense of joy and surprise in our customers lets us know we were successful! Lauren: We just know immediately if we like something and luckily our tastes have evolved Derek:

st or I tr u it makes opinion s , which .” dy whose ren ’ u nobo La s ’ l l aborate “ T here more thann to co u f respecteasy an d

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CU L TURE C L UB

shop our , open to d space d j u st was esigney d esigne . d ream tif u l ly d ll r u u O â&#x20AC;&#x153; u tif u the stereo bea st bea a on by in is j u d sic e mu nd arget u d T .â&#x20AC;? with s u rro with goo , reams d ects j aboration ob l d est co l l u r wi B u t thebeyon d o

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along the same path. The true ticular interests. Our dream test is whether it’s something was just to open our shop in we’d want in our own home. a beautifully designed space, surrounded by beautifully It’s great that your cus- designed objects, with good tomers see so much of you music on the stereo. But to in your business. Where do things like the collaborado you hope to see the shop tion with Target is just befive or ten years down yond our wildest dreams. the road? Lauren: We’re really, really Derek: We never thought of happy with what we have. it as more than a mom-and- It’s a sweet spot we’re in pop shop driven by our par- right now! 104

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INFO

OPPE IT YSH S O I CU R I N E .CO M ONL a S treet lenci a , CA V 5 85 ncisco a r S a n F 9 4110

O ON T G S O TO R E S N I M CO GET S 9 T TA R C E B ER L E S EP T E M S N O

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West Co ast Girl s

est Coast fashionistas Emily Current and Meritt Elliott

are two peas in a very hip pod. Widely known for their denim line CURRENT/ELLIOTT launched in 2008, the go-getting duo now runs a full branding, styling, and consulting powerhouse. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve styled stars like Emma Roberts for the red carpet and designed a fabulously quirky Westward collaboration with Kate Spade New York. Eager for the inside scoop, Matchbook paid the style setters a visit at their West Hollywood studio. Read on for their thoughts on friendship, authenticity, and skinny jeans. W r i t t en by A m el i a M oy e â&#x20AC;˘ P h oto g r ap h y by La r a Ros s i g n o l M a k e- u p by K r i s t e e L i u at S ta rwo r ks A rt i s t s.co m H a i r by Lu k e Ch a m b e r l a i n at S ta rwo r ks A rt i s t s.co m

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First things first, you t wo met in college – do you remember the details of the fateful first meeting?

We sat next to each other at an anthropology seminar and bonded over each others vintage denim bell bottoms. We admired each other's easy campus style and made a plan to go the flea market together the following weekend! What

inspired you to go

into business together?

It's rare to find a like minded creative comrade with a similar entrepreneurial spirit. We challenged and inspired each other in even the simplest projects and knew if we joined forces, the sky was the limit. Plus, fashion is a tedious and multi-facetted industry, and being a team makes it and much easier and more fun gig!

Emily [left] and Merit t [right] strike a pose

You’ve become known for

You’ve styled big celebrities

your

West

Coast

locale.

Mandy

Moore

and

How has California shaped

Emma Roberts. What is it like

your aesthetic?

prepping a celebrity for the red carpet?

We both have lived on the West Coast our entire lives and simply love its casual, easy way. The West Coast is rich in culture and ingenuity and its fashion sensibility reflects that. 108

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It is a fantastical journey to dress our amazing clients. Each and every one of them have an innate sense of style and it’s our job to punctuate and elevate that. Prepping for

a red carpet event involves lots of research, great relationships in the industry, and an element of fashion risk and reward. Each and every job is a blast! You’ve

now

worked

together for over a decade. How

has

and

business

evolved?

your

friendship partnership

"We knew if we joined forces, the sky was the limit."

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"We have had separate life experiences that have evolved us as individuals and empowered us as a business."

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Surprisingly, not much! We both still recognize our individual strengths and challenges. We have certainly had separate life experiences that have evolved us as individuals and empowered us as a business. We've also honed our amazing skills of reading each other's mind and finishing each others sentences. Emily, what do you most admire in Merit t?

Her ability to see beauty in many different things, they way she mixes high and low fashion, and her deep love of friends and family. 116

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Merit t, what do you most

admire in Emily?

about helping other brands

your

repertoire.

do you find rewarding?

What

Her profound creative conviction, amazing sense of It's amazing to walk into style, and contagious giggle. iconic American brands that have inspired and informed Which pieces will you be our aesthetic and work on sporting most often this extracting the essence and fall? heritage and be able to help articulate a clear and Skinny trousers, single sole authentic message through pumps, heavy on the ankle multiple platforms. We love boots, short crew-neck branding and creating clear cashmere sweaters, camo and consistent consumer jackets, tulip skirts, and red- messages and consider it orange lipstick! one of our biggest strengths. There is nothing we love In addition to designing more that to come into a line and styling, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve or brand from the outside recently added consulting and lend a new perspective!

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"The West Coast is rich in culture and ingenuit y and its fashion sensibilit y reflects that."

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Emily’s Matchbook Questionnaire

TEA OR COFFEE?

I’m lusting after...

I collect...

Most prized possession?

Coffee – Nespresso!!!

Vintage denim and victorian lace slips. Favorite city?

Paris

Both my maternal and paternal grandmothers' engagement rings Girl crush?

Fall

Ann Curry and Mindy Kaling

Bloom of choice?

Boy crush?

Spring or fall?

Peony and lily of the valley Style icon?

Keith Richards and Tom Sawyer Linens?

Crisp white cotton always China pattern?

Heath Ceramics

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A vintage '60s gold Rolex.

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Jack White and, of course, my amazing husband On weekends...

I love to go to the farmers market and then have a big BBQ with all our friends in the backyard! If we decide to play some cards or games I won't be mad at that.

Merittâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Matchbook Questionnaire

TEA OR COFFEE?

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m lusting after...

I collect...

Most prized possession?

Honey Vanilla Latte Vintage tees and old rock records. Favorite city?

Ojai, California

Emily's Fendi bag. My wedding rings, my Hermes watch, and my shaved ice machine Girl crush?

Fall

Misty May Treanor

Bloom of choice?

Boy crush?

Spring or fall?

Summer jasmine Style icon?

Mick Jagger Linens?

An indulgently high thread count in taupe China pattern?

I'm sort of in love with my parents' wedding China from 1970. It involves butterf lies and gold, and is relevant even now.

Tim Riggins from Friday Night Lights On weekends...

I can be found joyfully f loating in water with my daughter splashing me, drinking something sweet and delicious.

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