14 maresolepuglia guide en sig by maresolePUGLIA

2014 VERSION

Gianni DI TANO

The middle of

Apulia ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

VILLA CAPITOLO

VILLA PUGLIESE

HOST GUIDE vers. 2014

by gianni di tano

FEEL LIKE AT HOME

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Summary Introduction ........................................................................................ 5 Foreword

...................................................................... 6

WELCOME

...................................................................... 7

The Geography of Puglia........................................................... 8 Puglia's superb beaches and coastline ......................................... 8 Puglia and its 60 million olive trees ....................................... 11 What to visit â&#x20AC;Ś..

.................................................................... 12

MONOPOLI, between the heart and the sea (6 km) .................12 POLIGNANO A MARE (17,8 km) ....................................................13 CASTELLANA GROTTE (22,7 km) ..................................................15 ALBEROBELLO (23,2 km) ................................................................18 LOCOROTONDO in the Valle d'Itria (19,9 km) ..........................19 MARTINA FRANCA the capital of the Valle d'Itria (26,2 km)..20 CISTERNINO: One of the Valle d'Itria's gems (26,7 km) ..........22 OSTUNI : the white town (32,3 km) .............................................23 BARI: the town of Saint Nicholas (52,1 km) ...............................25 LECCE : Puglia's Baroque masterpiece (103,0 km) ..................27 The History of Puglia ............................................................... 31 The Baroque splendour of Lecce ..................................................31 OTRANTO : the far east of Italy (151 km) .................................33 S. MARIA DI LEUCA : the town between two seas (185 km) ...35 GALLIPOLI: the island town in Puglia (140 km) .......................38 CASTRO (152 km) ............................................................................39 TRANI , a mediaeval jewel on the sea (102 km) .................... 40 ALTAMURA (98,6 km) .....................................................................42 MATERA (118 km) ............................................................................43 CASTEL DEL MONTE (107 km) ......................................................43 ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Puglia and its varied food and cuisine .................................................... 67 Where to eat.....

.................................................................... 59

MONOPOLI ........................................................................................59 ALBEROBELLO ...................................................................................61 BARI ....................................................................................................61 Tipical dishesâ&#x20AC;Śâ&#x20AC;Ś to taste absolutely !!! ................................................ 62 Puglia on a plate - recipes from Puglia ......................................65 How to taste ......

.................................................................... 68

A guide to some of Puglia's best cheeses ...................................68 How to do .....

.................................................................... 71

Puglia, Italy's biggest producer of wine................................. 74 Useful information

.................................................................... 75

Where to buy and to bring to home!!! ..................................................... 77 Readings: all things Apulian ................................................... 79 The Pizzica Pizzica and La Notte della Taranta in Puglia ......79 Puglia, the home of the Trullo ......................................................80 The Carnevale di Putignano ..........................................................81 How to know

Number Of Blue Flag Clean Italian Beaches Increases in 2014 .......83

That Castle on Your Coin......................................................................85 Useful links

.................................................................... 88

Itinerary of a week

.................................................................... 88

Itinerary of a week with children ......................................................... 88 A guide to festivals and events in Apulian summer ............. 91 Reading Italian Coffee Culture ...............................................................................94

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Introduction mare â&#x20AC;Ś soleâ&#x20AC;Ś.. PUGLIA (sea ... sun ..... Apulia) is a private initiative founded by those who after years of traveling the world, after being hosted by people of different nationalities and ethnic groups decided to open their homes to people who, a lover of knowledge chose Apulia as its goal the discovery . And with the hospitality and the familiarity with which it was agreed accommodate those coming from afar, but also only a few kilometers in 2001 VILLA CHAPTER began to welcome friends tourists from Italy, via Switzerland, France, Germany, Netherlands, Canada to faraway Australia. Since 2006 he is also open to the hospitality VILLA APULIAN that allows direct contact with the rural reality of Monopoly in a villa which, although newly built (it was designed and built by a company headed to the writer), allows you to live and enjoy the intimacy rural architecture of Puglia..

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Foreword These brief notes stem from a desire to capture the best of what our region has to offer to those who stay for a short period with the intent that the memory of our land and our hospitality is always alive in his memory as all the memories of happy times, happy and carefree. We open private property to tourists mainly for the pleasure of welcoming and reciprocate the welcome given to us by others in other distant countries of our magnificent globe we visited bringing the utmost respect for the people places and different cultures as well as befits between good friends. Who comes to visit, we can not reserve him this welcome greeting.

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WELCOME I like very much to travel in the world. I have visited Kenya, Tanzania, Namibia, Mali, Thailand, India, Peru, Guatemala, Norway, Poland, Sweden, England, USA, Palestine, Israel, Yemen ..... I stayed with asiatic, african and american people. I stayed in their places, in their town, in their home : a big villa or a little capanna. That one was my home. Here, this one is your home You are WELCOME. HAVE A GOOD HOLIDAY !!! gianni

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The Geography of Puglia Puglia's superb beaches and coastline Starting in the north of Puglia, the rocky, mountainous promontory of the Gargano offers some stunning coastal scenery: green wooded hills give way to white cliffs, sea stacks, azure crystalline seas, golden sands and paradisiacal pebbly coves. The beaches around Rodi Gaganico, Peschici and Vieste are particularly popular, across some real hidden gems. Heading

south

down

the

Adriatic,

the

coast

between

Manfredonia and the bustling, but if you get off the beaten track – ideally in a boat – you will come historic capital, Bari, is formed by a series of sandy and pebble beaches, the salt pans of the Margherita di Savoia Nature Reserve and some lovely towns such as Trani with its fabulous sea-front cathedral. From Bari, the mostly rocky coast is punctured by occasional spots of sandy beach, such as those at the lovely towns of Polignano a Mare and Monopoli, both well worth a visit. Continuing south towards Brindisi, one of Puglia’s most important ports, of note are the sandy beaches of Marina di Ostuni and the fabulous Torre Guaceto Nature Reserve, a naturalist’s paradise combining unspoilt woods, Mediterranean maquis, several miles of sandy beach and a protected marine reserve. While there you may well come across a flock of flamingos, just one of the dozens of species of migratory birds who stop off here.

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Lecce, Puglia’s baroque jewel, lies about 7km in-land but is connected by a straight, “no-time-to-be-wasted” road to the Adriatic, which ends at the little town of San Cataldo with its lovely sandy beaches and sea-front nature reserve. From this point the coast becomes rather more dramatic and the magnificently sea-sculpted chalky-white cliffs, transparent waters and sandy beaches of Torre dell’Orso are not to be missed... unless, you opt to continue a few miles south to the Laghi Alimini, two lakes immersed in wonderful Mediterranean pine woods. The larger lake is connected to the sea by a small channel and the sandy beaches are of spectacular beauty. Just a stone’s throw away to the south, is the delightful fortified port town of Otranto, another highlight of this stretch of the Adriatic coast. Apart from its historical and architectural interest, Otranto also boasts several lovely sandy beaches, one of which is right in the centre of town. Around 2 miles south of Otranto, at Capo d’Otranto, one comes to the easternmost point of Italy and from here on, until the tip of the heel, where the Adriatic and the Ionian seas meet and mingle at Santa Maria di Leuca, the coastline is characterised by rocky cliffs, probing inlets, such as the one at Porto Badisco which heads inland for nearly 400m, and towns such as Castro, perched above the sea in superb panoramic positions. Continuing our tour around Puglia’s coast, heading westward from Santa Maria di Leuca, with its strategically positioned lighthouse and sumptuous Liberty-style villas, one soon arrives at one of the most lovely stretches of sandy beach in Italy: about 6 kilometres running along Marina di Salve, through ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Marina di Pescoluse and up to Torre Pali. A brief interruption of rocky coastline soon gives way to more spectacular sand and turquoise waters at Torre Mozza and Marina di Ugento. Heading north for another 15km or so, one soon comes to the spiky Punto del Pizzo, which signals the start of the Gulf of Gallipoli, characterised by yet more lovely sandy beaches accessed through fragrant pine woods. The historic fortress island town of Gallipoli is a must-see if you’re in the area, but we must keep going: there is still over 100km of coastline to explore! A few kilometres up the coast is Rivabella, home to yet more Caribbean-esque sandy beaches. From this point on, right up to Taranto, small stretches of lowlying rocky coastline alternate with long, sensuous expanses of sandy beach, including those at San Caterina di Nardó. Also of interest is the lagoon-like, sandy sea-front of Porto Cesareo, delimited by its own promontory and the offshore Isola dei Conigli, and the 20 or so kilometres of continuous beach along the south-facing stretch of coast below Manduria, between Punto Prosciutto to Acqua Dolce. As the coast heads north-west towards the historic naval port of Taranto, there are lots of lovely little towns with their own sandy bays. On the other side of Taranto, the Puglian coastline continues westwards along the northern shores of the Gulf of Taranto for about 40km, until, after the Stornara Nature Reserve and its curvaceous, non-stop stretch of sand, it arrives at the border with Basilicata...

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Puglia and its 60 million olive trees As you come in to land at Bari or Brindisi airports, take a good look out of the window. It is unlikely that you will ever see as many olives trees in one place ever again! Puglia is famous for many things: trulli, orecchiette pasta, glorious sandy beaches and the pizzica to name a few, but nothing is quite as Puglia-defining as the 50 to 60 million olive trees (no one seems to know for sure how many!) that carpet the region, from the north to the south. The sheer number of trees is amazing, but so, in many cases, are their size and age. Called ulivi secolari (literally centuriesold olive trees), you will come across large numbers of ancient trees with knotted, gnarled, robust trunks that have been twisted into grotesque shapes by a mix of time, wind, sun and manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hand. They give an impression of wizened sagacity, seenit-all tiredness and a patient acceptance of the immutability of time. A few years ago these monumental olive trees were the object of an illicit trade whereby wealthy northern Italians, in a quest to add age and prestige to their gardens, paid enormous sums of money to shady olive tree rustlers. Local Puglian farmers would wake up to find their prized trees had been dug up during the night taken away in what the local press termed the olive tree emigration. Strict laws were created to prevent such practices and now Pugliaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s olive tree patrimony is closely safeguarded. Of course, all these olive trees are not merely ornamental: Puglia produces around 40% of Italy's olive oil and has 4 ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Denomination of Origin of Production areas (Collina di Brindisi DOP, Dauno DOP, Terra D’Otranto DOP and Terra di Bari DOP) recognised by the European Union to protect the unique qualities and characteristics of each terroir. A great many varieties of olive are grown, the most common being Ogliarola, Cellina di Nardò, Coratina, Frantoio, Leccino, Peranzana, Garganica, Rotondella, Cima di Bitonto and Cima di Mola. After more than 2,700 years, the relationship between the locals and their olive trees is stronger than ever. Indeed, Puglia without olive trees is unthinkable: not only would the region’s cuisine and economy suffer terribly, but, most importantly, the landscape would be unrecognizable...

What to visit ….. MONOPOLI, between the heart and the sea (6 km) No board game jokes, please! The locals have heard them all before! Sitting on Puglia's Adriatic coast around 30km south of Bari, Monopoli is a lovely town for a day trip, possibly in combination with Polignano a Mare just up the coast, mixing a dip in the sea with a good lunch and a wander around the old town centre. Like so many towns on the Adriatic, Monopoli's history has been thoroughly influenced by its east-facing position and its fortified sea-front walls and castle tell many a story. Parking in or around Piazza XX Settembre, location of a colourful street market, head east towards the cathedral. To find it just look upwards and you are sure to see its elegantly ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

conceived bell tower thrusting into the sky. Built in 1693, the tower is over 60 metres high, completely dominating the town below. Passing by the cathedral (or after a quick look in), continue heading east and you will soon come to the first part of the seafront, with its defensive walls and sandy bay, ideal for a refreshing dip. Continue down the lovely Via Papacenere, which will take you behind the walls and onto the Lungomare seafront promenade, complete with some fine buildings, including the curvaceous Church of Santa Maria della Zaffira, a cannonmounted bastion and the impressively robust Charles V Castle, built in 1552. The castle is visitable and the view from the top is wonderful. Passing under an archway outside the castle, you will arrive in the port, comprised by a series of little harbours. Wandering half way round the first one, busy with fishermen mending their nets or unloading the day's catch, a little street will take you back into town and, along Via Cimino, back to your starting point at Piazza XX Settembre.

POLIGNANO A MARE (17,8 km) Discover Polignano a Mare, a seaside gem in Puglia

A shining gem on the coast of the Valle dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Itria, perched atop a 20 metre-high limestone cliff above the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic, Polignano a Mare truly lives up to its name and literally

could

not

any

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;at

seaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;!

The origins of this enchanting place date back to the 4th ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

century BC when Greek settlers founded the city of Neapolis. It flourished under the Romans and was important enough for Emperor Trajan to direct his Via Traiana, built between 108-110 AD, through the town. Remains of this road include a bridge at Lama Monachile, just north of the historic centre. Polignano offers all the right ingredients for a perfect day out. The tiny old town, reached through the Porta Vecchia gate, combines charming, white-washed streets with beautiful old churches such as the Chiesa Matrice. You may find yourself getting lost in the winding streets, but you won’t mind at all. Before you know it, you will have reached one of three panoramic terraces offering breathtaking views of the beautiful Adriatic Sea and coastline. After a stroll through the town and a coffee in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, why not pop down to the Blue Flag beach, just a few minutes’ walk from the old centre? A firm favourite with the locals, the beach has crystal clear waters and is flanked on two sides by cliffs from which children and teenagers dive all through the day until sunset. Polignano is famous throughout the world for three things. First of all is, as hinted at above, cliff diving. In recent years the town has hosted the Red Bull diving competition, attracting crowds of 45,000 people in 2010! Second is its outstanding ice-cream, which you really cannot afford to miss on a hot summer’s evening. The third and possibly most famous export of Polignano a Mare, however, is the great Domenico Modugno, who wrote and sang numerous classic songs, including the massive international hit, Volare (originally entitled Nel Blu ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Dipinto di Blu)! The locals are incredibly proud of their favourite son and rightly so. As you wander through the streets that inspired such a wonderful song, you might well find yourself involuntarily singing or whistling, “Volare, oh,oh… Cantare, oh,oh,oh,oh… Nel blu dipinto di blu… felice di stare lassù…”.

CASTELLANA GROTTE (22,7 km) The caves The Grotta

Castellana lies

near

the

town

small

Castellana,

re-named

Castellana-Grotte several

years

ago.

Castellana is a small town

with

inhabitants.

15,000 A

Image: Some of the beautiful white formations of Castellana. The Stalactites have small Helictites at their base.

large

and deep pothole near Castellana was known for many years. The people told stories about ghosts and monsters inside the mysterious chasm called La Grave (the Deep). Today the small town Castellana looks like a holiday park. Huge parking lots around the city, Hotels along the way to the cave, restaurants and shops with souvenirs, and finally a small park with the cave. The ticket office looks like a train station with multipe lanes leading criss cross to the ticket office. The reason is the month of August, as 150,000 of the annual 250,000 visitors visit the cave during August. This is the month were all Italians make their holidays, and so the cave visitors are almost ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

100% Italian. So if you visit this cave, try to do it in any other month. The rest of the year you will not have lanes to wait in, no crowds, and of course there are numerous foreign visitors and cave tours are provided in at last half a dozen languages. After paying the ticket, if you have some time to the start of the tour, you should definitely visit the collapse La Grave. This natural entrance allows a view down into the biggest chamber of the cave. The dimension of this cavern is hard to determine, until you see a group of visitors on the floor. The start of the tour resembles the London Tube: there are gates were you insert your tickets with barcode to open the gate for a single person. Then a long stair goes down an artificial tunnel to the floor of the entrance hall. This descend is a little strenuous, but it is almost the last stairs. If you have problems going down long stairs, ask at the ticket office, and you can go down with the lift. The tour starts at the floor of the main hall. Standing between huge columns of stalagmites you look up to the roof collapse, where you stood just 10 minutes ago. There is a bust of FRANCO ANELLI (1899-1977) the discoverer and developer of the cave. Of course he did not discover the hole in the ground which was known for a very long time, but he was the first speleologist to descend to the floor and explore the cave system behind. This was in 1938, when he was director of the Postojnska Jama, which were called Grotte di Postumia at this time, as this part of Slovenia belonged to Italy since World War I. In 1945, at the end of World War II, Italy lost this region again to the new Yugoslavia of TITO. ANELLI was forced to leave Postojna, and as ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

he knew Castellana he moved with his collection and library to this place. Since this time Castellana is also a scientific center. The main chamber, called Grave, is 70m deep. This is the level of the whole cave system, which elongates about 3km. The Grave seems to be a hall, but it is a huge passage, 50m wide, up to 60m high, and almost 600m long. This passage is separated into chambers and alcoves by huge formations, forming towers and castles, walls and bridges. Castellana cave has a fascinating variety of dripstones. The path makes a circle inside this huge cavern, returns almost to the staircase and then goes down into the north-western branch where the tours enter a lift and return to the surface. Beneath

this

regular

tour,

which

called Percorso

classico (classic tour), there is a long tour called Percorso fino alla meravigliosa Grotta Bianca (tour to the end and the White Cave), which leads into the southestern branch. This passage follows the same main direction as the first part, but is much smaller. Still of decent size, it has only room for one path. The first 700m of this passage show a rather common cave, thats why the tour guides speed up, and its rather boring to follow them at a high pace. But the visitors are rewarded with one of the most beautiful sights of all Italian show caves: a showcase of pure white speleothems,

stalactites,

stalagmites, curtains, calcite

crystals, and helictites. All the minerals were formed during long times in undisturbed, limestone rich water. The common speleothems, stalactites and stalagmites were formed first, but later covered by the various crystals. The results are stalactites ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

overcrusted by calcite crystals at the lower end, up to the former level of the cave lake, looking like toilet brushes or water lilies. For a few years the cave has been heavily polluted by the sewage from the houses built in the area above it. Some studies to limit these effects have been carried out, but up to now, very few countermeasures have been taken. A seismic recording laboratory is operating in a side passage of the cave.

ALBEROBELLO (23,2 km) The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Alberobello, Puglia Trulli, trulli everywhere... It must be Alberobello, Puglia's picture-postcard town famous for its conical-roofed houses trulli! It's not just a pretty picture, though, but also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, protected thanks to its "outstanding universal value... an

exceptional example of a form of building

construction deriving from prehistoric construction techniques that have survived intact and functioning into the modern world." With its narrow pedestrianised streets, little shops selling local produce and a few nice cafes and trattorie offering al fresco dining, Alberobello is a great day out for families with young children, who, in our experience, love the trulli and remember them as one of the highlights of their holiday!

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LOCOROTONDO in the Valle d'Itria (19,9 km) Locorotondo is one of Puglia's prettiest towns with a proudly conserved,

easily-walkable

centre

and

calm,

laid-back

atmosphere. Its luminous white-washed walls and panoramic position recall Ostuni, the Citta' Bianca, but its location, in the middle of the Valle d'Itria, invites more comparisons with its UNESCO World Heritage Site neighbour, Alberobello. This latter is famous for its delightful trulli-speckled centre and yet, despite being just 8km down the road, Locorotondo chose to follow a completely different building route! No cone-topped cylinders here, but plenty of cummerse, narrow rectangular town houses with pointed gable roofs, strangely evocative of north European, Baltic architecture. These simple, angular buildings that predominate the centre belie the town's true shape, which, as its name implies, is "rotund", both horizontally (thanks to its circular street plan) and vertically (it hugs the contours of the curvaceous hill on which it sits). The old protective walls are traced by a perimeter road offering wonderful views over the surrounding agricultural land, a quilt of vineyards, olive groves and trulli dissected by dry-stone walls. It is no coincidence that Locorotondo is know as the "balcony of the Valle d'Itria". From the two original gates one enters a web of streets that wind indolently up to the central piazza.The whiteness of the cummerse is interrupted only by the occasional polychrome flash of a baroque palace or a vibrantly coloured flower box. ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

The early 19th century Church of St. George and the fine Romanesque Church of the Madonna della Greca are worth a look but monuments and churches are not the reason to visit Locorotondo: its charm lies in the collective whole rather than in its consituent parts. When you've spent an hour or so wandering the streets and are ready for lunch, try some u tridde, Locorotondo's speciality, a freshly made pasta incorporating pecorino cheese and finelychopped parsley cut into small pieces and cooked in a wholesome turkey broth. Washed down with a glass or two of Locorotondo DOC wine from the Cantina Sociale, you'll soon be ready to continue touring the wonderful Valle d'Itria MARTINA FRANCA the capital of the Valle d'Itria (26,2 km) An exploration of the lovely Valle dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Itria (trulli country!) would not be complete without a visit to Martina Franca, the largest town in the area. More buzzing than its three illustrious neighbours, Alberobello, Locorotondo and Cisternino, it has long been the commercial centre of the area, ever since Philip of Anjou granted it tax free status and various other privileges in 1310. With Franca now appended to its name, old Martina was soon attracting

new

residents,

including

noble

families

and

businessmen. Elegant palaces (at least 20 of note) and churches (over 15) began springing up throughout the old centre, testimony to the new-found wealth that was flowing into the town.

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Until the reunification of Italy in 1861, Martina Franca was a fully walled town, with 24 towers and four gates. As it evolved to cater for more modern requirements, however, some of these towers were removed and other access roads punched into the walls. However, the four Renaissance and Baroque gates still exist, effectively delineating the old town from the more modern 19th century part of town, which also has some fine buildings and a shady park. Opposite the park is the wide, tree-lined expanse of Piazza XX Settembre, which leads through the Porta di Santo Stefano (one of the four gates) into Piazza Roma, home to the impressive 17th century Palazzo Ducale. From here it is a short walk through the narrow streets to Piazza Plebiscito, the true heart of the town and backdrop to its masterpiece, the delightful Basilica di San Martino. Its intricate, sandy-coloured, überBaroque façade is extremely fine, especially when illuminated by the evening sun. From this splendid piazza, we recommend you just follow your nose and soak up the atmosphere, stopping off, perhaps, for refreshments in one of the many outdoor cafés… You won’t be sorry you came! Good Thinking: one thing you must try or buy before leaving Martina Franca is some capocollo, a kind of cured ham that is the pride of the town. Mention it to any local and their faces will light up!

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CISTERNINO: One of the Valle d'Itria's gems (26,7 km) Three is the magic number, so they say, and nowhere is this truer than in the Valle d'Itria with its trio of enchanting, historic towns: Alberobello, Locorotondo and Cisternino. Like its sisters, Cisternino, boasts a small, utterly charming old town centre that has remained virtually intact for centuries. Its whitewashed houses, narrow, shady streets, historic churches and elegant central piazza open out onto a series of panoramic view points from which visitors can take in the surrounding countryside, with its rolling hills, dry stone walls and whitetipped conical trulli roofs piercing the green fields. Cisternino is pleasant to visit at any time of day, though there is something particularly magical on a summer's evening as the sun sets and the locals come out for their evening passeggiata (stroll). The restaurants, gelaterie and bars around the piazza fill up and the atmosphere becomes gently hedonistic. You don't need to go to a restaurant to eat in Cisternino, however, as the town is famous for its barbecuing butchers! All you have to do is choose your meat - maybe the local speciality, bombette, little meat parcels filled with mince, ham and cheese - and take a seat outside with a carafe of local wine. The butcher will then barbecue your chosen goodies and bring them out to you when ready. A truly local (and delicious) eating experience! The streets of Cisternino are home to some buildings of considerable architectural interest, including the 13th century Norman-Swabian tower, topped with a little statue of San Nicola, the 14th century Church of San Nicola with its 18th ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

century facade and 6th century foundations, the curvaceous baroque Church of San Cataldo and tower-flanked Palazzo Amati. In August, Cisternino celebrates the summer with a series of festivals, including the processions for the Festa di San Quirico, one of the town's patron saints, and a couple of food festivals, or sagre, one dedicated to orecchiette (Puglia's signature earshaped pasta), the other to rabbit! Then in September, the town turns its attention to the grape harvest, which is toasted with yet another party!

OSTUNI : the white town (32,3 km) Rising high above the vast olive-carpeted plateau of the lower Murgia, Ostuni has long been an awe-inspiring sight for those travelling across Puglia. Strong defensive walls and tumbling clusters of white-washed houses wind around the hillside, at the top of which, proudly surveying the surrounding land, sits the magnificent Gothic cathedral. First founded by an indigenous tribe some 600 years before Christ, Ostuniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s long and varied history saw it pass from the Romans to the Ostrogoths, from the Lombards to the Saracens, from the Byzantines to the Normans, from the Hohenstaufen to the Angevins and from the Aragonese to the Bourbons. Traces remain from each domination but most of what visitors can see today dates from between the 1400s and the 1700s. The most distinguishing characteristic of Ostuni, and the reason for its taking the epithet La CittĂ Bianca, is its uniformly ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

white buildings. Originally the practice of lime-washing the town's

served as

means

of lightening up the dark,

labyrinthine mediaeval streets but in the 17th century it became a matter of life and death and was used to limit the depredations of the plague. Wandering through the streets today, visitors are charmed by Ostuni's mediaeval layout. The narrow back streets, little passages and flights of steps make it delightfully easy to lose one's bearings! Suitably, however, the climax of any visit arrives when you reach the highest part of town, home to the imposing Archbishop’s palace and the 15th century Concattedrale with its curvaceous, symmetrical façade and rose window. The views from Ostuni are, by themselves, reason enough to make a trip there. Wonderful vistas abound from all angles, the best of which offer 360-degree panoramas of the surrounding countryside and the Adriatic Sea. The coastline near Ostuni (just 8km away) boasts some of Puglia’s loveliest beaches whose cleanliness and quality of amenities are testified to by the 5 Blue Flags won in recent years. Festivals and events- the Cavalcata di Sant’Oronzo, a celebration of the town’s patron saint, takes place between the 24th-27th August. The high point, on the penultimate day, is a knightly,

costumed

procession

horseback.

- for food lovers, Ostuni is the place to be on 15th August, when the Sagra dei Vecchi Tempi comes to town, offering ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

visitors the chance to try some of the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most traditional dishes.

BARI: the town of Saint Nicholas (52,1 km) While not always the first town visitors go to see in Puglia, Bari, the regional capital, has plenty to offer and is well worth

spending time in. For millennia, Bari has been an busy commercial centre and trading port. It first came to prominence under the Romans who developed it into one of the most important towns on the Adriatic. This status was confirmed in 109AD when Emperor Trajan diverted the existing Via Appia so that it would pass through

the

city, essentially

provincialising

Taranto

and

elevating Bari to its present status as Puglia's capital. During Byzantine rule, which lasted, on and off, for around 500 years after the fall of Rome, Bari became inextricably linked to the eastern Mediterranean, as the town's port became a fulcrum of

the

slave

trade

which saw thousands of

east

Europeans

sent to Turkey and other countries in the Middle East. Later Bari became a major point of departure for the Crusades. This connection to the near orient continues today and since 1930 Bari has played host to one of the Mediterranean's most prestigious trade fairs, the Fiera del Levante. It is worth adding, ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

also, that Bari is the busiest passenger port in the Adriatic, with regular ferry links to the Balkans and Greece. The Levant has also suffused the city's religious history and until 1025, when Byzantine rule ended, Bari came under the episcopal jurisdiction of the Patriarch of Constantinople. Later in the same century, under Norman rule, came Bari's defining historical moment: the arrival of the relics of San Nicola. The saint's original resting place, Myra in Lycia (part of modern-day Turkey), had come under Muslim control and so sailors from Bari and Venice set out to retrieve his mortal remains. The Puglians arrived first and brought back his relics to Bari on 9th May 1087. Needing a suitable depository for their newly acquired venerable objects, the townsfolk immediately began work on what would become the city's most important building: the Basilica di San Nicola. The Basilica we see today dates back to the end of the 12th century and is a fine example of Romanesque architecture. It is the focal point of Bari Vecchia (the old town) and receives thousands of pilgrims from all over the world each year, including a great many Greek and Russian Orthodox visitors. Of particular note is the Festa di San Nicola, which runs from 7th9th May each year in celebration of the arrival of the saint's relics in Bari... Not to be missed if you're in the area! Bari Vecchia is a fascinating weave of streets that, until around 10 years ago, was considered a no-go area by the locals (note to football fans: this is where Antonio Cassano grew up!). A radical clean-up operation, however, has transformed it into a wonderful area for strolling, full of cafĂŠs, bars and restaurants. ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Just a short walk from Piazza San Nicola are Bari's other major architectural attractions: the Cattedrale di San Sabino, also built in a late 12th century Romanesque style by the Normans, and the Castello Svevo, Emperor Frederick II's mighty fortress. Bari boasts a long seafront promenade which leads from Bari Vecchia to the more modern shopping district, built on an octagonal plan in the early 19th century by Joachim Murat, Napoleon's brother-in-law. For opera lovers, a trip to Bari should include a night at the Teatro Petruzzelli, the fourth largest opera house in Italy, after the Teatro Massimo in Palermo, La Scala in Milan and the San Carlo in Naples. Originally built in the mid-19th century, it was almost completely destroyed in 1991 by a fire that broke out after

performance

Bellini's

Norma.

After

years

restoration it was reopened in 2009.

LECCE : Puglia's Baroque masterpiece (103,0 km) Built

the

local

soft

creamy

limestone

with

dazzling

architectural surprises around every corner, Lecce is a minor Baroque masterpiece. Its spider's web of streets offer a kaleidoscopic mix of long-range vistas, alluring glimpses and playful perspectives that have long enchanted visitors. Supported by a history going back at least 2,500 years, modern-day Lecce is the main town on Puglia's Salento peninsula and a major draw for the area's tourism industry. Its 95,000 inhabitants haven't forgotten their roots, however, and the production and sale of olive oil, wine and ceramics continues to be the mainstay of the local economy. ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

History Legend tells us that a town existed near the site of Lecce right back at the time of the Trojan Wars, though this is hard to verify. What is sure, however, is that the town was taken over by the Romans in the 3rd century BC. Evidently not caring much for its position, they moved it 3km north, began developing its potential and renamed it Licea. The Emperor Hadrian spent considerable time and resources fortifying it (he loved building walls remember!) and oversaw the building of an archetypally straight Roman road linking the town to the coast (at modern day San Cataldo, about 10km away). The town's stature was assured with the construction of a 25,000-seater amphitheatre and a theatre. With the fall of Rome, Lecce eventually came under the control of Byzantium in 549 and it remained thus until the arrival of the Normans in the 11th century. It prospered greatly as part of the Kingdom of Sicily and from 1053 to 1463 it was one of the most important towns in southern Italy. The early 17th century saw a new invasion, but this time of a cultural variety: the Baroque! Over the course of a hundred or so years, the town changed face almost completely. Existing churches and buildings were given makeovers and many new ones were built by ambitious young architects whose fantasy new no bounds. Baroque Lecce was born and most still survives to wow visitors. Sights to see while strolling through Lecce's lovely streets

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Piazza del Duomo is a real treat, surrounded,

is,

some

delightful buildings. The Duomo itself was built originally in 1144 but with the arrival of the Baroque zealots in the mid-17th century it was given a facelift and a 70m-high bell tower was added for good measure. The Basilica di Santa Croce has one of the finest and most intricate Baroque facades in Italy. The level of detail is quite stunning and the evident

perfectionism

its

creators most probably contributed to the building's exceptionally long period of gestation: it took over 200 years to complete before it was finally opened for worship in 1695. The Church of Saints Niccoloâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and Cataldo is a fascinating Norman church built by King Tancred of Sicily in 1180. The faĂ§ade was significantly embellished with statues and other decorative art in the early 1700s, but the impressive original portal fortunately remained. The result is a fascinating mix of Norman austerity and Italianate Baroque fussiness. The Statue of Saint Oronzo: Saint Oronzo is the beloved patron saint of Lecce. The column from which his statue surveys the old town centre of Lecce was orignally one of two that signalled the end of the Roman Via Appia in Brindisi. It arrived in Lecce in the 17th century as a gift from the people of Brindisi, who ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

believed that their neighbour's patron Saint had interceded on their behalf and save their town from the plague. Under the gaze of Saint Oronzo's statue is Lecce's Roman amphitheatre, built at the end of the 2nd Century BC. A series of earthquakes, bombardments and unfortunate town-planning initiatives meant that it remained buried and forgotten until after the 2nd World War, when excavations began. About two thirds of the arena were uncovered and archaeologists have calculated that it would have measure some 100x80m with a capacity of around 25,000 spectators. Il Castello di Carlo V: Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor and King of Spain (just two of his many titles), inherited vast swathes of Europe, including the south-east of Italy. Plagued by attacks from the bothersome Ottomans, he ordered a series of towers and fortifications to be built along the coast of Puglia. One such work was the castle in Lecce, built between 1539 and 1549 on the site of an existing Norman fortress. Its muscular ramparts belie the beauty of the interiors, which feature a delightful central courtyard and a series of halls decorated to suit the tastes of a Holy Roman Emperor. Today the castle plays host to cultrual and artistic events. A quintessentially southern Italian town, bursting with piazzas and palazzi, Lecce's old town centre is a wonderful setting for the strolling visitor. CafĂŠs, bars and restaurants flank the streets offering refreshments and front row seats from which to observe the comings and goings of the locals as they go about their daily business. ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Reading : The History of Puglia The Baroque splendour of Lecce After decades of instability, the defeat of the Ottoman Empire in the Battle of Lepanto in 1571 led to a period of relative calm in Puglia. Having lain dormant for so many years, the region’s cultural and artistic flame sparked back into life and the construction of utilitarian fortifications was replaced by the building of magnificent churches and dazzling noble palaces... nowhere was this more true than in Lecce. Peacetime coincided happily with the advent of a group artists and benefactors who, in just over 100 years, transformed Lecce from a rather provincial garrison town into a sparkling Baroque jewel. Lecce was also blessed in its mineral resources and, in particular, by the presence of a malleable, golden type of limestone that has since taken the town’s name. Ideally suited for carving and sculpture it was fundamental to the creation of Lecce’s unique artistic style. Florid, exuberant and minutely detailed, Lecce’s Baroque style is also compact and neat without any bombastic overtones that one often associates with architecture of this period. Some art historians link the detail of the carvings and sculptures to the Spanish plateresque tradition (Puglia was under Spanish rule at this time), that took its inspiration from the precision and intricacy of silversmiths’ plate work. Lecce’s Baroque is also playful, mixing mythological creatures and fantastical figures with floral patterns, flamboyant motifs ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

and, on the noble palaces, proud armorial bearings. It is a feast for the eyes and one needs to concentrate on the minutiae to enjoy the whole. As with all artistic movements, it is impossible to establish a precise starting date for Lecce’s Baroque movement, though one important moment was in 1639, when the amaranth red robes of Bishop Luigi Pappacoda rustled into town! He quickly forged a relationship with one of the brightest, most talented architects of the period, Giuseppe Zimbalo, grandson of another master builder who had already been active on the Basilica di Santa Croce. Zimbalo worked on many of the buildings that are most representative of Lecce’s Baroque, including the restoration of the cathedral (commissioned by Pappacoda) between 1659 and 1670 and the wonderfully elegant 70 metre-high bell tower that stands like a beacon next door. He was also responsible for much of the decorative work on the facade and rose window of the Basilica di Santa Croce (continuing the good work of his grandfather), the Chiesa del Rosario, the Palazzo dei Celestini (1659-1695), now seat of the provincial government, and the Column of Sant’Oronzo in the eponymous piazza. Other artists who contributed to the beautification of Lecce included Giuseppe Cino, Gabriele Riccardi, Cesare Penna and Mauro Manieri, all master craftsmen who bequeathed one of Italy’s most splendid town centres to future generations… of which you are one! Stroll, marvel and spare them a thought as you go ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

OTRANTO : the far east of Italy (151 km) Pub quiz fans may wish to store away the following nugget of trivia: Otranto is Italy's easternmost town. But it is much more than just that: its mix of history, architecture, views, sea-front restaurants and white sandy beach makes it one of Puglia's most interesting, charming and picturesque towns. Otranto sits right on the Adriatic sea, gazing out across its eponymous strait towards the Balkans and Greece, a strategic position that has profoundly influenced its history. In Roman times, it became an important commercial port - there was a significant Jewish population of traders - but also a departure point for Roman military expeditions to the east, as testified to by two marble pillar bases recording the transient presence of Emperors Lucio Vero and Marco Aurelio. For a period Otranto even overshadowed Brindisi. The sack of Otranto Otranto's east-facing sea-front position, however, also made it susceptible to attacks from across the Adriatic. The most notorious took place on 28th July 1480, when a Turkish fleet of around 150 ships carrying 18,000 soldiers landed to lay seige to the town. The resistance and resiliance of the town's folk is stuff of legend but after two weeks of fighting Gedik Ahmed Pasha, the Turkish commander, and his men finally stormed the castle and laid waste to the town and its population. All males over 15 were murdered and the women and children were sold into slavery. ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

800 survivors barricaded themselves inside the Cathedral with their bishop, Stefano Agricoli, to pray for deliverance. Divine intervention was not forthcoming, however, and they were soon captured. Gedik Ahmed Pasha demanded they renounce their Christian faith and convert to Islam but not one capitulated and their fate was sealed. The unfortunate bishop was cut to pieces and his head paraded round the town on a pike while the others were marched to the hill of Minerva and beheaded. Years later, in 1771, a Papal decree formally beatified the 800, who became known as the Blessed Martyrs of Otranto. The town today Otranto is certainly one of Puglia's most charming towns and is well worth a visit. The imposing castle, thick perimeter walls and robust towers (built after the town was liberated from the Turks in the late 15th century) dominate much of the town, giving way to a small port, a series of sea-front promenades with excellent fish restaurants and the town's very own beautiful white sandy beach and turquoise waters... The delightful Romanesque cathedral, dating back to 1088 and boasting extensive 12th century floor mosaics, is another highlight that should not be missed. Nearby - I Laghi Alimini are 2 interconnected lakes forming an Oasi Naturale just north of Otranto. Home to a wide range of flora and fauna and a popular stopping-off point for numerous species of migratory birds, including black and white herons and flamingos, it is a popular place with nature lovers. Through a process of erosion, the larger lake is connected to the sea and ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

a stretch of beaches accessible only on foot. One such is the beach of Baia dei Turchi, where Gedik Ahmed Pasha and his fleet supposedly landed before attacking Otranto. - Punto Palascia (also known as Capo d'Otranto), just to the south of Otranto, is Italy's easternmost point, whose rocky shores and cliffs, stunning seaviews, lighthouse and unspoilt

landscape make it a great spot for coastal walking. - Porto Badisco, just to the south of Punto Palascia, is a rocky inlet giving way to a slip of sandy beach and cavernous grottoes. Legend has it that Porto Badisco was where Aeneas first set foot on Italian soil on arrival from Carthage. S. MARIA DI LEUCA : the town between two seas (185 km) â&#x20AC;&#x153;From the eastern sea, Curving in an arc, The thick foaming waves break Against their opposing rocky masses. Hidden from sight, Sheltered behind its double seawalls, Lies the internal port, From where the hilly land rises Towards the far-off temple.â&#x20AC;? So wrote Virgil in the 3rd book of The Aeneid, describing the hero's approach to the Japigo promontory, home to Leuca... As

Virgil

intimates, Santa

Maria

Leuca

sits

the

southernmost tip of the Salento peninsula where the waters of the Adriatic Sea mingle and merge with those of the Ionian. A popular resort for wealthy Puglians since the early 1900s, as ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

testified to by the eye-catching Art Nouveau villas that line the seafront,

Leuca

has

all

the

necessary

attributes

for

quintessential Mediterranean holiday. Apart from Virgil's description, Leuca has long been mentioned in the annals of history: Thucydides, Sallustius, Strabo and Horace all mentioned the town in historical and literary contexts, while documents attest to St. Peter sojourning there on his way to Rome. The townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name comes from the Greek Leukos, meaning light or luminous, while the appendage of Santa Maria refers specifically to the religious sanctuary built on a site high above the harbor, once home to a Temple of Minerva. Legend has it that the temple crumbled to the ground as St. Peter passed throughâ&#x20AC;Ś The sanctuary, also known as the Basilica De Finibus Terrae (Leuca was where the land ended for the Romans), was consecrated by Pope Julius I on 1st August 343 AD. It has long been a place of pilgrimage and is particularly busy around the middle of August each year. On 14th August the statue of the Virgin is collected from the sanctuary and taken to the Church of Cristo Re, where she remains for the night. On 15th August, the Catholic festival of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, the statue is paraded through the streets and down to the port. Here it is placed on board a specially festooned fishing boat which, accompanied by a flotilla of well-wishers, chugs across the sea to the port of San Gregorio and back. Once the statue is safely ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

back in the sanctuary, it is time for the fireworks and general partying to begin. Not far from the sanctuary is the impressive lighthouse, built in 1864 on the site of a 16th century watchtower. Its octagonal form rises 47 metres into the sky (over 100m above sea level) and contains a winding staircase of 254 steps. Still in function, it is one of Leuca’s most impressive landmarks. While on the theme of engineering feats, Leuca is also home to a monumental man-made waterfall, built to signal the end of the Puglia aqueduct. Started in mid-19th century, the aqueduct took an age to complete and only arrived in Leuca, its final destination, in 1941. Mussolini was a great proponent of project (the longest aqueduct in Europe) and ordered the construction of a suitably showy finale: the mouth of the aqueduct is built into a bridge at the top of the Japigo promontory and a waterway of rocks falls away below, flanked on either side by 300 steps. Standing proudly to attention at the bottom is a Roman column, transferred, on Mussolini’s orders, from the capital to Leuca. The cascade is opened only a few times a year, so is not to be missed if you’re lucky enough to be in the area at the right time. But Santa Maria di Leuca is also, and perhaps principally, about the sea. The sandy beaches at nearby Felloniche, Posto Vecchio, Torre Vado and Pescoluse are excellent for families and wellequipped with lidos, bars, restaurants and other facilities, while the more dramatic stretches of coastline, as described by Virgil, feature rocky cliffs pierced with around 30 Karstic grottoes. The ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

best way to truly these fascinating geological formations is by boat and there is no shortage of local sailors ready to take you out to sea off the coast where the world ends! These are just a few of the many attractions of Santa Maria di Leuca!

GALLIPOLI: the island town in Puglia (140 km) “Beautiful city”: that’s what Gallipoli means, and the town certainly lives up to its name! Situated on the west, Ionian coast of Puglia’s Salento peninsula, our Gallipoli may not be as famous as its Turkish namesake, site of the disastrous 1st World War battle, but its history is long and varied, its historic centre a delight and the beaches which flank it superb. The old town centre sits on a tiny island connected to the mainland by a 17th century bridge. It is almost completely surrounded by defensive walls, built mainly in the 14th century. The east side is dominated by a robust fortress dating back to the 13th century, but largely rebuilt in the 1500s when the town fell under Angevin control. These fortifications tell us a lot about Gallipoli’s history: thanks to its strategic position, it was frequently under siege. Founded, so legend tells us, by Idomeneo from ancient Crete, the town soon became part of Magna Graecia and remained so until Pyrrhus, presumably

following

one

too

many

disastrous

victories, was defeated by the Romans! ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

After being sacked by hordes of Vandals and Goths, the Byzantines arrived, rebuilding the town much in the form we recognise today. Normans, Angevins and the Bourbons arrived in successive waves until the Unification of Italy in 1861. The island heart of Gallipoli is home to numerous impressive Baroque churches and aristocratic palazzi, testament to the town's former wealth as a trading port. A labyrinthine weave of narrow streets all eventually lead to the broader sea-front promenade with its wonderful views. In the summer months cafes, bars and restaurants proliferate onto

the

pavements

making

for

extremely

pleasant

atmosphere, while the beach, La Spiaggia della Purita, is an attraction in its own right. An evening passeggiata (pre-prandial stroll) around the walls, looking out to sea, is a great way to prepare for a fresh fish dinner. The coastline north and south of Gallipoli is formed by a series of long sandy beaches and transparent waters that have long been attracting sea lovers. East of town, just a few kilometres in-land is the classical Baroque centre of Alezio, also worth a visit if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in the area.

CASTRO (152 km) A little town with a favolous sea and a fantastic cave to visit by boat: Grotte della Zinzulusa http://www.grottazinzulusa.it

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

cattedrale di TRANI

foto gianni di tano

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

TRANI , a mediaeval jewel on the sea (102 km) An instantly recognisable landmark for sailors navigating the Adriatic Sea over the centuries, Trani's iconic seafront cathedral is one of the finest anywhere in Italy. But, as anyone spending a little time in Trani will quickly come to realise, the cathedral is just the cherry on a particularly tasty cake! Although its history goes back somewhat further, Trani, which lies just north of Bari, became the lovely town it is today between the 11th and 13th centuries. Its strategic position on the Adriatic coast made it an important departure point for the Crusades as well as a flourishing commercial centre, attracting many families from Italy's great Maritime Republics, with whom it maintained close diplomatic relationships. In the same period, Trani was also home to southern Italy's largest Jewish community, testament to whose presence is the impressive Scolanova synagogue. The old town centre, a charming mediaeval network of streets with plenty of fine architecture, is arranged around the picturesque fishing port, which is itself flanked by numerous bars, cafĂŠs and fish restaurants. From here, heading to the north end of the port, one comes to the cathedral, a fabulous example of Romanesque architecture whose creamy white limestone and lofty proportions emphasise its stunning location beside the deep blue of the Adriatic Sea. Completed in 1143 and dedicated to Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim, the cathedral has a basilica plan, with three apses, and a large crypt. Its (tri)angular roofs are supported by mighty walls punctuated by high ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

windows, giving a fortified feel. The west end features a rose window and a finely sculpted portal whose original bronze doors, the work of Barisano di Trani (also responsible for the doors at Monreale cathedral in Sicily), are now conserved inside. On the south side is an imposing 60m-high tower, added in 1239. Heading about 100m west of the cathedral, following the sea wall, one comes to Trani's other architectural marvel: Emperor Frederick II's castle, built in 1233. Rising directly from the sea, whose waves crash against its walls, the castle has a classic quadrangular form, with robust square towers at each corner. Various bits were added over the years, and the sea water-filled moat was filled in, but essentially Frederick's original structure remains. In the early 1800s it became a prison and only in 1974 were the last inmates moved to a newer establishment. It has recently been restored and is now open to the public and hosts frequent concerts, art exhibitions and other cultural events. If, after a morning's wandering around Trani and a good al fresco lunch on the harbour front, you are still in the mood for exploration, why not head inland (a 40-minutes drive) to another of Frederick II's great constructions, Castel del Monte.

ALTAMURA (98,6 km) Very famous for its very beautifull Cathedral and its bread. For further informations, please visit:

http://www.altamuraweb.it/turismo/uomo.asp

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Altamuraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s man

MATERA (118 km) Matera is a city and a province in the region of Basilicata, in southern Italy. It is the capital of theprovince of Matera and the capital of Basilicata from 1663 to 1806. The town lies in a small canyon, which has been eroded in the course of years by a small stream, the Gravina. Known as "la CittĂ Sotterranea" (the Subterranean City), Matera is

well

known

for

its

historical

center

called

"Sassi",

considered World Heritage Site by UNESCO since 1993, along with the Park of the Rupestrian Churches. For further informations, please visit:

www.sassiweb.it

CASTEL DEL MONTE (107 km)

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Castel del Monte (Italian for "Mountain Castle") is a 13thcentury citadel andcastle situated in Andria in the Apulia region of southeast Italy. It stands on a promontory, where it was constructed during the 1240s by the Emperor Frederick II, who had inherited the lands from his motherConstance of Sicily. In the 18th century, the castle's interior marbles and remaining furnishings

were

removed.

has

neither

a moat nor

a drawbridge and some considered it never to have been intended as a defensive fortress; however, archaeological work has suggested that it originally had a curtain wall. Described by theEnciclopedia Italiana as "the most fascinating castle built by Frederick II", the site is protected as a World Heritage Site. It also appears on the Italian version of the one-cent euro coin.

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Following some Apulian Pictures by Gianni DI TANO

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Where to eat..... The owner of maresolepuglia recommend to you:

MONOPOLI If you want to eat at CAPITOLO don’t choose the restaurants along the coast : here often you spend a lot and your lunch isn’t the best !

Pizzeria - Ristorante IL TRONCO c.da L’Assunta, 123, B – Monopoli ; tel +39 080 412 33 94

Enjoying a 'good pizza and good early in peaceful surroundings served by friendly staff. It is advisable to go for dinner from 20.00

20.30

order

avoid

queues.

Follow the road towards the ring road, turn right. On the coplanar east and follow the road and the indication ASSUNTA always keeping on the right. From here approximately 1.5 km's pizzeria. Tel 080 412 33 94 Victorian Pub Contrada Vagone, 70043 Monopoli Bari Tel 080 690 1838

Relaxed and kindness in this spacious restaurant, where you can taste cheap pizzas, wraps, pasta and meat dishes. Follow the road towards the ring road surpassing going on the

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

overpass, hence 2.5 km on the left. Tel 080 690 18 38-368 73 13 192

Panificio Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ASSUNTA

In front of the pizzeria the trunk, on the west coplanar we recommend the cakes and takeaway of BAKERY The

ASSUNTA

"parmigiana" potatoes

and

(taste and

the "rice,

mussels).

Follow the road towards the ring road, turn right. On the west coplanar immediately after overtaking the ring road and follow the road. From here, about 1.5 km away from the bakery the ASSUNTA. Tel 080 690 30 62-360 640450

Macelleria - braceria LEOCI You are responsible for the meat and meat-based delicacies of this braceria; choose the amount and everything will be served at the table. If you want the "cooking with blood" Remember it to the owner. Tel 080 88 76958-333 77 35 102 Relaxing and kindness. From Chapter go to the ring road towards Bari Monopoli South and then head out to find the place about 2 km on the left (before the town)

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Pescheria LO SQUALO At Monopoli right in front of the municipal stadium spartan place where u choose fresh fish that you will be prepared fried and served at the table. Possibility to taste fish dishes. Via Fiume 37 Monopoli Tel 080 937 29 12

Masseria GARRAPPA In typical fortified Masseria good pizza restaurant. Beautiful citrus grove to visit. Good food. From CAPITOLO to take the road towards the highway and 50 m turn right and follow the road for about 1 km. And signs will lead you to your goal. Tel.080 420253 Only 600 m after Masseria Garrappa on the right you find

La locanda di FELSIANO where in an informal atmosphere is possible to taste typical apulian dishes. Ask for a touristic menu : â&#x201A;Ź 18,00

ALBEROBELLO Taste delicious first and best pizzas in elegant surroundings in a very nice garden from Ristorante Fidelio. Lovely owners. Tel 080 432 17 58

BARI Vini e cucina Just off Piazza Ferrarese we recommend the cellar "Vini e

Cucina" in business for over 60 years. Spartan ideal place to ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

savor the atmosphere of a typical wine from Puglia where the fishermen were going to drink a glass of wine and eat something and have a chat in a dialect incomprehensible even to Bari who live outside the old city. Place Spartan.

Pizzeria da COSIMO back to the prison located in Viale Pope John XXIII to enjoy a super panzerotto fried among the best of the province socalled "panzerotto the hood" to consume leaning on the bonnet of their (make sure you your own) car with a "Peroncino" (Peroni beer bottle 33 cl) in hand. Resign yourself to do a half hour queue just in time to give way to soak your clothes smell of frying. To expedite ask for a seat in the spartan and more than chic lounge .... but remember .... if you are sitting at the table you have to order at least a pizza if you want it to serve the panzerotti.

Tipical dishes…… to taste absolutely !!! Don’t forget to visit the official website of reference for the cuisine of Puglia http://www.italtrade.com/apuliafood/

A must to taste absolutely is "Rice, potatoes and mussels" (“Riso, patate e cozze”) or "baking dish Bari" (“tiella barese”) dish typically Bari equivalent competitor (winning) the "Paella" Spanish.

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

The “tiella barese” is a traditional dish from Puglia made from rice, potatoes and mussels, decorated with onion and tomato. It should be cooked in the oven for about an hour, the time that the potatoes are soft, the raw mussels and rice are cooked and the gratin surface becomes crispy and golden brown. The baking dish is typical of the city of Bari is made but, according to tradition belongs to every family, in Apulia. The tiella Bari is good to be served as a main dish in the summer very rich and fragrant. Main ingredients: rice, potatoes, mussels, parsley, garlic, tomatoes, parmesan cheese, pangrattatato, garlic, pepper, salt, pepper, olive oil “Fave con cicorie”, excellent mashed beans served with boiled chicory often mixed with the same puree.

“Panzerotto” strictly fried, stuffed with tomato and mozzarella.. ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

“Ricci di mare” sold in stalls along the coast to be

enjoyed

local

bread and a good glass of wine. They are sold only in a few months because there is the socalled "biological stop" to permit to regenerate the ricci

“Taralli” in the form of rings sold in almost all the bakeries if they are of different types, boiled or

not

and

flavored “friselle”,

sometimes

with

fennel,

stale

bread

circular very friable just to wet in water and season with olive

oil,

salt,

oregano

and

tomato: a real treat.

“Orecchiette

con

cime

rape” Bari dish to enjoy in the spring months when the plant is ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

available in the markets. Cooked with addition of anchovies.

Readings:

Puglia and its varied food and cuisine For millennia Puglia has been predominantly an agricultural region, producing around 40% of Italy's olive oil and a large proportion of its wine. Vast tracts of the region's territory are given over to farming, whether it be crops or livestock, and many inhabitants continue to grow their own produce. This essentially agricultural nature means that the region's cuisine is home-country inspired, predominantly using the abundant local produce such as durum wheat, tomatoes, artichokes, fava beans, rocket, courgettes, beans, fennel, peppers, onions, beef and lamb. In

terms

pasta, Puglians

pride

themselves

their

orecchiette, little ear-shaped shells that are still produced by hand on a daily basis by many signore. It is usually served with tasty sauces such as meat ragu, broccoli and lard, mushrooms or turnip tops. The pasta itself is made rigorously from durum wheat flour, water and salt. Eggs, once considered a luxury, are not used in traditional Puglian pasta-making.

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Puglia on a plate - recipes from Puglia A pasta speciality is maccheroni al forno. The maccheroni is mixed with meatballs, hard-boiled eggs and all manner of other ingredients. Finally it is topped with a pie crust and cooked in the oven! A sensationally rich and tasty treat! As with pasta, the local durum wheat is also used in Puglia's delicious bread, which comes in all shapes and sizes and is a constant companion to meals. In more remote villages, communal

wood-burning

ovens

still

exist

where

local

housewives can bake their own bread. Altamura, a small town in the north-west of Puglia was the first town in Europe to receive a DOP classification (Denomination of Origin of Production) for its bread. When McDonald's came to town, the locals gave it short shrift, continuing to prefer only sandwiches made with their own bread. Less than two years after opening, the great Ms were taken down and the global hamburger circus left town! A victory for food lovers everywhere! Puglia's rocky interior is ideal for sheep-farming and, in terms of meat, lamb reigns supreme, a trait that Puglia shares with its near neighbour, Greece. Feast days are characterised by the fragrances of roasting lamb wafting through the streets and most restaurant menus will feature at least a couple of lamb dishes. Horse meat and pork are also popular while beef, traditionally a minor player in the region's cuisine, is more and more popular. One thing to look out for in the Valle d'Itria area, and especially in Cisternino are the rosticceria butchers where you can choose your meat and have it cooked there and then ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

on a hot charcoal grill or in a wood-burning oven. While waiting, just take a seat at one of the tables and get stuck into a glass of local wine! The presence of so many sheep also means that cheese is generally of ovine extraction. Puglia's pecorinos and ricottas are excellent and ubiquitous. Visitors should also try to find some burrata di Andria, a fresh, soft cheese that has to be eaten within 24 hours of production - absolutely delicious! Puglia's long coastline and fishing tradition bring large quantites of seafood to the table. Red mullet, anchovies, gilthead bream, mussels, sea bass and cuttlefish are featured in many recipes and the many seafront restaurants in towns like Gallipoli, Otranto, Brindisi and Taranto serve up feasts of justcaught fish. If you still have room after the main courses, Puglia's desserts will certainly tempt you. Many are almond based (the region produces vast quantities of almonds), often combined with honey or vin cotto di fichi (a kind of fig concentrate), while sweetened ricotta cheese sweets are also a local favourite. Puglia's comforting country cuisine may not be as famous as that of some other Italian regions, but it is full of goodness and genuineness and thoroughly local, a pure expression of popular traditions and the natural bounty of the land.

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

How to taste ...... A guide to some of Puglia's best cheeses If there weren't already enough reasons to choose a holiday in Puglia, here's another: the cheese! With dozens of varieties, ranging from the hard, mature and tangy to the soft, spreadable and buttery, Puglia is a little slice of paradise for cheese lovers.

Dairy products of Masseria LAMA PECORA : from producer to consumer ! You can get mozzarella, burrata the excellent use, use, first sale, soft cheese, cheese, cheese horse. Ask to taste before you buy or buy blindly, no product disappoint you if you are fond of dairy products. Apulian Chees Here are a few we think you should try: Burrata The number one spot must go to Burrata, a real Puglian invention we strongly recommend! Produced in Andria and Martina Franca, it is basically a cow's milk mozzarella with a ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

surprise inside: a delicately oozing liquid cream filling… Ideally it should be eaten the same day of production, but in the unlikely event that you don’t eat it all in one go, it can last a couple of days in the fridge! Canestrato Pugliese The only DOP cheese made exclusively in Puglia (Caciocavallo Silano, also a DOP, is made in Basilicata, Calabria and Campania too), Canestrato Pugliese is a hard cheese made from sheep’s milk.Its name derives from the little baskets (canestri) in which it is left to age. It is produced between December and May when the flocks have come down from the mountains of Abruzzo to graze on the green, green grass of the Tavoliere Pugliese, in the provinces of Foggia and Bari. The locals love to grate it on their pasta. made.

Manteca Manteca is another Puglian cheese invention, which is to say, not a just cheese! Pear-shaped, made with cow’s milk and not matured, it boasts two layers, the inner one being a soft deliciously creamy butter…

Marzotica Made with a mix of cow’s and sheep’s milk in the Lecce area, Marzotica, as the name might imply, is traditionally produced in March (marzo in Italian) after the sheep have been grazing on the succulent green Spring grass. It is left to mature and dry for around two weeks before being wrapped in grass. This ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

relatively short aging process gives it a delicately tangy flavour and, as a consequence, Marzotica is often grated on pasta dishes to add an extra layer of taste.

Pampanella Pampanella, another cheese meant to be eaten the same day it is made, has a long history going back at least a couple of centuries. It is produced in Grottaglie using a mix of milks and takes some of its distinct flavour from the fig leaf in which it is wrapped.

Ricotta forte Ricotta forte, or ricotta scanta is made all over Puglia (and neighbouring Basilicata) and is often used in cooking, thanks to its pungent, gum-tingling qualities! This flavour comes from a 3-month resting process in terracotta containers. Every three or so days it is stirred and then left once more to intensify its flavours. You will surely come across it on many restaurant menus, possibly in the form of orecchiette con la ricotta forte, and in shops, where it is sold in distinctive glass jars.

good

glass

white

wine

BIANCO LOCOROTONDO typical Apulian fresh drinking is a real treat at the Cantina Sociale di LOCOROTONDO. Call in advance to check the visiting hours. ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Here you can enjoy an excellent ice cream while enjoying the view of the picturesque Swabian Castle of Bari.

71 If you are in Polignano visit Gelateria Comes old more than one hundred years you can taste a lovely “granita la caffè con panna”. You can find Gelateria Comes near the principal town square.

How to do ..... After being lost in the beautiful historical town of Puglia and after you very well browned on the beach tanned by no bright sunshine discover the caves that open onto the blue sea of costaPolignanese. Talk to ASSOCIAZIONE TURSTICA ISOLA BLU in Polignano tel 388 -788 33 459 for boat trips. For Gulet trips from half-day, a day or a week along the Apulian

coast

starting

from

Monopoli

there

www.pugliaincaicco.it tel 3290630096 - 330840411

Organize a bike ride following the guide indication PUGLIA IN BICICLETTA, which you can download on our website.

A golf match in the elegant San Domenico golf club only 3 km from VILLA PUGLIESE. http://www.golfpuglia.it/ ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

A visit to the beautiful botanical park Lama degli Ulivi

LAMA DEGLI ULIVI presso VIVAI CAPITANIO STEFANO Contrada Conghia, 298 – 70043 Monopoli Tel +39 080 80 17 30; +39 329 412 15 41; +39 329 059 26 36 www.lamadegliulivi.it

A relaxing day at the beach the reserve of Torre Guaceto www.riservaditorreguaceto.it Veloservice

visit

Bari

Lecce

“risciò”

bycle

and

very

(www.veloservice.org) PUGLIARTE

(www.pugliarte.it)

for

singular

interesting visit of Bari underground. To

visit

Polignano

bycle,

please

contact

www.facciamoloinbici.it To

visit

Savelletri

Fasano

bycle,

please

contact

www.ecorentpoint.it If you are an ecologist man and you want to visit Apulian, pease contact www.tournelsud.com *

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

At one with nature... Torre Guaceto Just north of Brindisi, the nature reserve and protected marine area of Torre Guaceto is a great family day out. With 6km of uncontaminated coastline, charming coves and paths leading through ancient olive groves and woodland, it is a great spot for nature lovers. For the smaller members of your party, a little train will take you to the beaches, some of which have lido facilities, while teenagers might like to hire a bike from the Info Point and do a little mountain-biking.

A visit to the small but interesting museum of olive oil set up in the premises of the mill of the Masseria S. Angelo de 'Graecis, (Contrada San Angelo, 5-72015 Fasano), which since 1798 has been in the family Colucci-Amati, with machinery, tools and objects that tell the history of oil production. This company, with its 60 hectares of olive groves, has always been linked to this ancient activity. free admission hours: Friday - Saturday and public holidays 17:30 - 20:00 Contacts: Tel. 080 4413471

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Reading : Apulian

wine Puglia, Italy's biggest producer of wine. If Italy is the largest producer of wine in the world, it is largely thanks to Puglia, which produces more than any other Italian region, about 17% of the total! Viticulture is deeply rooted in local traditions but until 20 or so years a large proportion of Puglia’s grapes were used to add “substance” to wines produced in the rest of Italy and France. Thankfully this is no longer the case and Puglia now boasts 25 different DOC areas and some excellent vintages of its own. The most widely grown grape variety is Negroamaro (literally ‘black

bitter’).

Almost

exclusively

cultivated

Puglia,

Negroamaro is used to produce some of the region’s best wines, including Salice Salentino. The epithet of most famous grape, however, goes to Primitivo, whose wines, including the Primitivo di Manduria, are generally high in alcohol content and full in body. Curiously, the Primitivo grape shares its genetic make-up with California’s Zinfandel varietal. White wines in Puglia count for less than 20% of the overall production but are gradually growing in importance. Local grapes such as Bombino Bianco, Bianco d’Alessano and Verdeca rub shoulders with international varieties including Chardonnay and Sauvignon to produce some excellent results. One of the best ways to discover Puglia’s wines for yourself is to sample them in the comfort of one of our villas, several of which have well-stocked cellars. I highly recommend to taste these wine: ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

BIANCO LOCOROTONDO NEGROAMARO PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA

Useful information This section provides travelers with useful reference information about Puglia. The following piece of information will surely be useful to tourists: If you need any other information do not hesitate to contact us...

Bluwash, laundromat for convenient cleaning during your stay; Monopoly in via Belvedere corner via Madre Teresa di Calcutta. Area for babies. Info 334.7211043 (washing kg 8 € 4,00; dryer € 3,50)

National Public Holidays and Bank Holidays in Italy: •

January 1 - New Year's Day

•

January 6 - Epiphany

•

April 25 - Liberation Day

•

May 1 - Labor Day •

June 2 - Day of the Italian Republic, Giorno della Repubblica

•

August 15 - Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Ferragosto

•

November 1 - All Saints' Day

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

•

December 8 - Immaculate Conception of the Blessed Virgin Mary

•

December 25 - Christmas Day

•

December 26 - Saint Stephen's Day, St. Stefano

Emergency numbers and emergency:

76 These are the numbers to call in an emergency, they are valid nationwie: •

Medical Emergency Service: phone 118

•

Police / Polizia: phone 113

•

Carabinieri: phone 112

•

Fire Department / Vigili del Fuoco: phone 115

•

ACI car breakdown service: phone 116

Transports: Following are some useful information about airports, trains, motorways and buses: Bari Airport: Information on how to get to the airport, live info on arrivals and departures http://www.aeroportidipuglia.it/Bari If you want informations about the links beetwen bair airport and central railways station please link on

http://treni.aeroportidipuglia.it/ ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Brindisi Airport: Information on how to get to the airport, live info on arrivals and departures http://www.aeroportidipuglia.it/Brindisi Trenitalia/National Railway: Official website of the national Italian railway service with info on train stations, departures and arrivals http://www.trenitalia.com Autostrade/Motorway: Official website of the national Italian motorway network with real time info on road network status to better plan your journey. http://www.autostrade.it/en/ Embassies: If you need further details or info and you want to contact your embassy please visit the following page to get details of embassies in Italy. Embassies in Italy

Where to buy and to bring to home!!! For wines undoubtedly an ideal place to buy is the CANTINA SOCIALE Locorotondo. For excellent olive oil or dairy products go to the nearby Masseria LAMAPECORA that has the ability to vacuum pack its products mature. ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

For delights of Puglia which preserves to enjoy during the long winter

period

recommend

the

Company

Arenazza

Monopoli. For

bakery

products

such

bread,

bagels,

friselles

undoubtedly BAKERY The ASSUNTA

Via Arenazza 70043 -

Monopoli - Bari â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Puglia Tel/Fax:

080.80.85.30

Orario continuato: 8:30 - 21:00 .

From SS 16 exit Conversano-Monopoli, turn to Monopoli

Cantina del Locorotondo, via Madonna della Catena, 99 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 70010 LOCOROTODO TEL +39 080 43 11 644; +39 080 43 11 298

www.locorotondodoc.com

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

If you want to buy directly from the farm the very famoous Apulian oliveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oil please contact Azienda Mavilio at Monopoli. The farm is organized to send you the product. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s possible to buy online too

www.oliodolivamavilio.com

Readings: all things Apulian The Pizzica Pizzica and La Notte della Taranta in Puglia If you come across a group of people dancing frenetically in the Salento area of Puglia, odds on it won't be a rave, but a pizzica pizzica, a kind of tarantella peculiar to the province of Lecce. Shrouded in myth and legend and dating back many hundreds if not thousands of years, this dance was thought to have been the only cure for a tarantula bite, or, metaphorically, for someone possessed by the devil... When the alarm went that someone had been bitten, usually while working in the fields, the local band would pick up their instruments (traditionally violins, mandolins, guitar, flute, accordion and large tamburine) and rush to the house of the afflicted. Once there they would begin to play, slowly at first, while the patient, usually in a high fever by this time, began the dance. As the music got faster, so to did the steps of the dancer, whose aim was to expel the poison (or malignant spirit)

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

through sheer force of motion and perspiration. Often family and other villagers would join in in a show of solidarity. The dance would continue "prestissimo" until the main protagonist collapsed to the floor, utterly exhausted, but hopefully cured. Other versions of the dance exist, including more romantic ones requiring a partner, but the real excitement comes when purification and/or exorcism is called for! This important folk tradition is celebrated each year in August in a festival called La Notte della Taranta. The towns and villages of GrecĂŹa Salentina, the area south of Lecce and west of Otranto, all come together, hosting concerts, dancing and allout parties. Musicians and bands from around the world are invited to take part, and recent editions have seen the likes of Stewart Copeland, Joe Zawinul and the Buena Vista Social Club.

Puglia, the home of the Trullo There is probably nothing that signals your arrival in Puglia more than the iconic sight of a trullo, the unique conical constructions found in the southern Murgia area of the peninsula. Trulli have been around for many hundreds of years, though the oldest surviving ones date back only to the 16th century. The probable reason for this is that they were generally built as temporary dry-stone accommodation that could be dismantled whenever necessary... This was usually when the property tax ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

collectors came to town! Imagine their surprise when they arrived at Locorotondo, Alberobello or Fasano to find mounds of rubble and virtually no houses! As soon as the inspectors went away, the trulli would spring up again and the locals would move back in! A typical trullo has a cylindrical base with a conical limestonetiled roof. Though built without cement, their thick whitepainted stone walls ensured coolness in the summer and warmth in the winter. The roof was often painted with an evil eye, a cross or an astronomical symbol and topped by an ornamental flourish. The Trulli of Alberobello, thanks to their unique characteristics and historical significance, constitute one of Puglia’s two UNESCO World Heritage Sites and is certainly worth a visit. Whilst mainly still lived in by locals, many trulli have been converted into excellent holiday homes with pools, and the best are available only through Think Puglia. Did you know? the only other place in Europe to have trulli is the Rhineland in Germany... Why? Because migrant workers from Puglia built some while working in the vineyards there! Trulli a home away from home...

The “Carnevale di Putignano” From the sacred to the profane and back again, the Carnevale di Putignano is one of Puglia’s most important popular festivals. It is not only the longest Carnevale in the world, lasting for up to 2 months, but also, one of the oldest. ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

On 26th December 1394, the relics of Santo Stefano were transferred from Monopoli to Putignano for safe-keeping, out of reach of the Turks and other invaders who repeatedly attacked Puglia’s coastal towns. On arrival at Putignano, the Saint’s relics were welcomed by the locals, who accompanied them to their final resting place in the Church of Santa Maria della Greca. This event, known as the Propaggini, signals the start of Putignano’s Carnival which, depending on when Easter falls, continues for up to two months, until Shrove Tuesday. The Propaggini daringly combines the sacred and the profane: religious performers

celebrations recite

alternate

biting

poems

with

worldly

ridiculing

satire

public

figures

(politicians in particular), modern habits and even the Church. The Carnival’s mascot, Farinella (named after a peasant dish of chickpea and barley flour), gets events underway and pops up throughout, urging the revellers on and carrying out practical jokes in his multi-coloured court jester-like costume. The Carnevale has a multitude of events, including four parades, three on the Sunday’s leading up to Lent and one on the night of Shrove Tuesday. Artisan-crafted papier-mâché allegorical

floats,

choreographed

bands

masked

merrymakers stream through the streets to the sound of live music and cheering crowds. February 2nd, Candlemass, is dedicated to the Festa dell’Orso, whereby a bear (really someone in a bear costume!) is led through the streets on a leash. Like something akin to Groundhog Day, the bear sniffs the air, takes the temperature ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

and looks at the skies. If the weather is good, the bear builds himself a straw den in which to take refuge against the bad weather to come. If the weather is bad, the forecast is rosy... Each Thursday during the Carnival period is party day, each one dedicated to a different social class: Monsignors, Priests, Widowers, the Mad (unmarried youngsters), married women and married men (the last category referred to rather more cruelly as the Cuckolds!). Almost every day has something going on, so packed is the calendar of events, but all good things must come to an end and Shrove Tuesday

signals the end of the fun and the

beginning of Lent, a period of reflection and fasting. Typically, the profane has the last laugh as fake priests run through the town, dipping small brooms in a miniature toilet and 'blessing' passers-by with a splash or two. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Carnival is deadâ&#x20AC;?, they cry, as the bells of the church mournfully chime 365 farewells... Until next year, my friends, until next year! PS If you can't make it in January and February, Putignano hosts a mini summer Carnival at the beginning of July.

All informations on www.carnevalediputignano.it

How to know Number Of Blue Flag Clean Italian Beaches Increases in 2014 The number of Italian beaches to be awarded a prestigious Blue Flag for clean water and pristine sands has risen again this year according to the

international

Foundation

for

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Environmental Education (FEE). Italy can now boast 269 beaches that have passed FEE's strict tests for water quality and environmental management - 21 more than last year. Liguira topped the league for the second straight year for 20 beaches that passed the test, the same as last year, followed by Tuscany with 18 (one more than in 2013) and the central Marche region with 17 (one less than in 2013). Sardinia, known worldwide for its crystalline waters, lost a Blue Flag while Sicily gained two, for a total of six Blue Flag beaches each. There are practically countless of locations in Italy where one can enjoy a beautiful swim in clean water, from isolated coves to places full of activities, but the FEE's criteria are more complex. The Blue Flag certification identifies those places that fulfill certain criteria in terms of the quality of the area and the associated services. The idea is to highlight places where swimming can be enjoyable, safe and with respect to the environment. Some of the more important of these criteria are: 1. The quality of the water must be within EU limits. 2. There should be no outlet of sewage water in the proximity. 3. The beach itself needs to be clean, with adequate services for swimmers to dispose of trash. 4. An appropriate number of personnel should be on hand to ensure the safety of the swimmers and such personnel should be equipped with appropriate tools to carry out their work. ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

There should be at least one place where to get drinking water on the beach

6. Provisions should be made for disabled access to the beach. This leaves out many woderful isolated beaches, with no service available, but where both the quality of the water and the sand are incredible. For a full list of this year Blue Flag beaches visit the Blue Flag Organisation website. - See more at: http://www.italymagazine.com/news/number-blue-flag-clean-italian-beaches-increases-2014 ITALY, Newsletter â&#x20AC;&#x201C; May 16th 2014

That Castle on Your Coin Barry Lillie | Thursday, May 15, 2014 - 10:37

Puglia castles

has

dotted

around its region, ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

and out of the 747 castles in the whole of Italy it was the Castel del Monte, from just outside the Pugliese town of Andria that was chosen to be pictured on the reverse of the one-cent coin; in fact, so special is this castle that in 1996, UNESCO added it to its list of World Heritage Sites, saying, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Castel del Monte is of outstanding universal value in its formal perfection and its harmonious blending of cultural elements from Northern Europe, the Muslim world and classical antiquity. It is a unique masterpiece of medieval military architecture reflecting the humanism of its founder, Frederick II of Hoenstaufen." The unusually octagonal shaped castle was built upon a rocky bank where it juts out in places giving it at some angles an oddly precarious look. Eight windowless, octagonal towers dominate each of its corners, resembling sentinels looking down blindly over the surrounding countryside. Built from the local calcareous stone, the castle walls have a solitary window set into them with the exception of that facing the town of Andria, here eight windows look down from the upper floor; seven of equal size and a smaller three-mullioned window. There are only two remaining statues within the courtyard, these being a slab of local stone positioned to represent a parade

knights

and

figure

depicted

anthropomorphous posture. Inside the castle the interior is divided into two further floors accessed by three winding staircases. The first floor is supported by columns of rose coloured stone, with the second floor held up by trilobite marble pillars. The keystones of each ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

floor are decorated with carved crosses and depictions of natural elements. Up on the first floor indentations and holes in the walls are evidence of a wooden gallery that made it possible to walk from each of the eight towers. The castle has a total of sixteen halls; eight upon each level and these are shaped into trapezoidal rooms where the opposite walls are all parallel: no mean feat, considering the time of its construction. The Falconer tower houses two male figures, (Telamones) supporting an umbrella shaped vaulted ceiling and evidence of an intricate mosaic floor can be found on the ground floor. Two important pieces of sculpture, a head and an acephalous bust found during the restoration have since been removed to the museum in Bari. When acquired by the Italian state in 1876, the castle was in a state of disrepair, the external walls had become damaged by natural erosion, some vaulted ceilings had collapsed and parts of the flat roof were unstable due to its retention of rainwater. Following restoration the castle now serves as a visitor centre and welcomes tourists through its grandiose portico. Getting there: The town of Andria is easily accessible by train, however the site is outside the main part of the town; during the holiday season coach trips are available via many of the townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tourist offices. By car the castle is very easy to find as it lies on the SS170 southwest of the town. Opening hours are 9.00 am to 5.30 pm with the last available tickets being issued thirty minutes before closing. ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Useful links http://www.pugliaimperiale.com http://www.pugliaevents.it http://www.valleditria.info http://www.mtvpuglia.it

http://www.pugliarte.it http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egnazia http://www.golfpuglia.it/ http://www.pugliaincaicco.it/ http://www.miragica.it/ http://www.monopoliturismo.it/

Itinerary of a week 1° giorno sab

mare, Polignano a Mare

2° giorno dom

Alberobello, Castellana Grotte

3° giorno lun

Martina Franca, Locorotondo

4° giorno mar

Monopoli, Ostuni, Cisternino

5° giorno mer

Bari, Trani, Castel del Monte

6° giorno gio 7° giorno ven

Lecce, Gallipoli Zoosafari or scavi di Egnazia, mare

Itinerary of a week with children 1° giorno sab PLAY STAR - Monopoli - 6 km - (2-3 hours in the evening) ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

2° giorno dom A day wuth the horses - Torre Canne - 10 km - (1/2 day) www.parcodimare.com/ or an adventure day at Castellana Grotte: a park for the children http://castellana.indianapark.it/

3° giorno lun ZOOSAFARI - Fasano - 5 km - (one day); www.zoosafari.it

4° giorno mar PARCO DINOSAURI - Castellana Grotte - 15 km - (3 hours) www.ilparcodeidinosauri.it

5° giorno mer PARCO CARRISI-PETRIZZI LANDIA - Cellino S. Marco - 30 km (one day); www.curtipetrizzilandia.it

6° giorno gio PARCO DIVERTIMENTI MIRAGICA a Molfetta -60 km- (one day);

Reductions by purchasing ticket online at www.miragica.it and entering the discount code maresolepuglia

7° giorno ven ACQUA PARK Egnazia only 2 km from Villa Pugliese or Villa Capitlo(one day); www.acquaparkegnazia.it Zoo Safari and Fasanolandia amusement park From hippos to lions, from pelicans to penguins, the Zoo Safari at Fasano in the Valle d’Itria has over 50 different species of animals to see. Some areas are visitable in your own car, some are accessed on foot, while others require a trip on an electric ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

train. There are special shows with parrots, dolphins, sea lions and penguins and once you’ve seen all that, you can head for the amusement park with rides for children of all ages. There are also lots of places to eat.

Indiana Park Non-stop fun is to be had at the Indiana adventure playground in Castellana Grotte near Monopoli. Ropeladder-walking, treeclimbing, cable slides and many other activities will keep your children occupied! There are different levels for different ages so all everyone should be happy. Safety equipment is provided and there is also a picnic and barbecue area, so bring along either

packed

lunch

something

grill!

Curtipetrizzilandia Acquapark With over 2,000m² of swimming pools, plenty of water slides and tubes and a bar and picnic area, Curtipetrizzilandia Acquapark in Cellino San Marco, just north of Lecce, may well appeal to the younger members of your group. And when they’ve had enough sun and splashing you could spend some time in the Red Indian village or go for a walk in the surrounding wood, which has a mini zoo, a jungle play area and a dinosaur park. Another waterpark, the Splash Acquapark, can be found a few kilometres north of Gallipoli at Rivabella.

____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

A guide to festivals and events in Apulian summer Wherever you're staying in Puglia this summer, you're sure to find some kind of festival, event or local celebration going on. Here are some of our recommendations, in chronological order:

La Festa di Santa Domenica

The little town of Scorrano near Otranto literally lights up on in celebration of its Patron Saint, Santa Domenica. The local artisans, many of whom make festival illuminations for towns all over Italy, come into their own creating large wooden structures and arches up to 36m high, dotted with a kaleidoscope of colourful lights. Not to be outdone, local fireworks companies put on an amazing show on the last night. When: 6th July 2013 Where: Scorrano

The Festival della Valle D'Itria

Classical music and opera festival that has been running since 1975. The 2013 edition features music and operas by Verdi and Wagner in a celebration of the bicenteries of their births. When: middle July - first week of August Where: Martina Franca

La Festa di Santa Cristina

A rowing regatta and other events to celebrate the townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Patron Saint.

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When: 24th July Where: Gallipoli

La Festa dei Martiri Idruntini

Commemorating the 800 martyrs who died at the hands of the Turks in 1480 for refusing to convert to Islam. After a couple of days of solemnity and processions, the mood picks up on the final day with a little partying and a stunning firework display. When:13thâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;15th August Where: Otranto

La Festa della Madonna di Leuca

A statue of the Madonna is paraded through the streets and down to the port, were it is placed on board a specially festooned fishing boat which, accompanied by a flotilla of wellwishers, chugs across the sea to the port of San Gregorio and back. Once the statue is safely back in the sanctuary, it is time for

the

fireworks

and

general

partying

begin.

When: 15th August Where: Santa Maria di Leuca

Sagra Pirotecnica della Valle dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Itria

As part of the 5-day celebration of Locorotondo's patron saint, San Rocco, 3 or 4 of Italy's most renowned firework specialists come together for a competition in pyrotechnics. The townsfolk turn out en masse accompanied by droves of curious tourists. At midnight the action begins and it is certainly worth staying up for! ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

When: 16th August Where: Locorotondo

Sagra del pesce spade

A celebration of swordfish is an excuse to celebrate all types of seafood. Grills are set up around Gallipoli and delicious smells of swordfish, prawns, calamari and much more waft through the streets. When: 17th-20th August Where: Gallipoli

La Notte della Taranta

A tribute to the Pizzica Pizzica, Salento’s tarantella dance. Lots of concerts, opportunities to get dancing and to soak up a bit of tradition. When: 6th-24th August Where: the towns of Grecia Salentina south of Lecce, including Melpignano

Fiera di Sant’Oronzo

Processions, partying and wonderful illuminations to celebrate the town’s Patron Saint. When: 24th–26th August Where: Lecce

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La Cavalcata di Sant'Oronzo

In celebration of the town’s Patron Saint, Sant’Oronzo. The saint’s statue is paraded around town with an escort of knights on horseback. When: around 26th August Where: Ostuni

Reading Italian Coffee Culture Monday, November 4, 2013 - 15:00 words by Barry Lillie on Italy magazine

It would be fair to say that Italians are passionate about coffee. So much so, you would think they had discovered it. They didn’t. To make up for this, however, they have invented a coffee culture unequalled anywhere else in the world. When coffee was first shipped from the Middle East to Venice, it caused a furore and was almost banned from entering the port. ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

Coffee houses were already established in Istanbul, but the fate of this stimulating drink was in the hands of Islamic preachers, who at first considered it on a par with alcohol. Eventually, it was accepted under Islamic law and trade began briskly in the 16th century.

Coffee houses in Venice sprung up and very quickly the black liquid, which was until now solely consumed as a medicinal drink, achieved cult status, making it a luxury item, out of reach for most of Venetian society.

However, as coffee

plantations became established within the European colonies in South America and Asia, availability increased, the price decreased and as it became more accessible to the poorer population, it ceased to be seen as purely medicinal. With over two hundred coffee houses along its canals, the reputation of this wonderful new drink soon spread to the neighbouring cities of Verona, Milan and Turin. Elegant new

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coffee houses were built and some of these original houses still remain to this day. Turin’s oldest surviving coffee house opened in 1763: Caffè Al Bicerin, situated on Piazza della Consolata, is home to the historic drink of Turin, the ‘Bicerin’, whose recipe remains a closely guarded secret. Once frequented by the aristocracy, including the likes of Puccini, Cavour and Dumas, the tiny space has only eight marble-topped tables meaning there is often a queue of people waiting outside to sample the delights within. Coffee

consumption

soon

spread to Rome and the rest of

the

peninsula,

with

imports arriving at the ports in Naples, Bari and Sicily. The

spread

nationwide

escalated and it wasn’t long before every household in Italy became familiar with the

drink,

eventually

evolving in a culture that is still relevant today. Perhaps one of the most iconic images that instantly quantifies the importance of coffee in Italian society is the ‘macchinetta’. The famous aluminum stove-top percolator, designed and produced by Bialetti in 1933 can be found in every Italian kitchen. This easy-to-use coffee maker is capable of producing ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

a faultless espresso every time. So perfect is the design that it’s been emulated, but never bettered. However times change and now electric coffee machines stand on bar counters, forcing scalding water over ground coffee beans to create a rich, creamy shot of caffeine. Howard Schultz, the CEO at Starbucks, has said in the past that it was during a trip to Milan that he became inspired to create the now international coffee house model. In reality, the Italian coffee bar and the U.S. chain are poles apart. The partaking of il caffè is a way of life. Most Italians have no desire to sit reading the latest best-seller whilst sipping a caramel-flavoured latte. In fact ask for a latte in Italy and you’ll get more than a confused look from the barista. In 2009, while staying in L’Aquila, a friend ordered a latte and was surprised to be given a glass of tepid milk. So what are the unwritten rules of Italian coffee culture? Ask most people and they’ll tell you, never order a cappuccino after 11.00 am. This is technically true; Italians view the milky drink only as a breakfast beverage; however, at holiday resorts, coffee bars can still be seen serving cappuccini (the plural) to tourists, well into the afternoon, but you’ll be hard pressed to find any restaurant that will serve any milk-based coffee after dinner.

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At most Italian bars, including motorway services, you will be expected to pay for your drink before it is prepared for you. Never ask for an espresso, simply request, ‘un caffè, per favore’ and after you hand your receipt to the barista, you’ll receive a short, strong

black shot accompanied

by a small glass of

water for palate cleansing. If you prefer your coffee to be white, then

it’s

quite

acceptable

ask for a ‘caffè macchiato’,

espresso with a dash of steamed milk. If

shot

coffee enough

of isn’t

hit

the spot, ask for a ‘caffè doppio’, which is quite literally a double espresso, but be aware this ____________ www.maresolepuglia.it ___________

isn’t an Italian habit and if you really want something more substantial then ask for a ‘caffè lungo’, an espresso diluted with hot water making it a longer, but weaker tasting drink. If you see ‘caffè corretto’ on the menu, it’s best to check your watch for the time as it’s an espresso complete with a shot of liquor: my local bar serves it with a generous slug of grappa, so isn’t

really

recommended

for

breakfast

mid-morning

consumption. Once you have become experienced politics

the coffee

purchasing and you’re travelling around Italy, why not try some of the

regional

recipes

that are on offer. In Trentino

ask

for

‘cappuccino Viennese’ and you’ll be served a delicious frothy coffee with chocolate and cinnamon. In the Marche region, stop for a ‘caffè anisette’ for an aniseed-flavoured espresso, in Naples enjoy coffee flavoured with hazelnut cream and, while in Sicily, why not indulge in a ‘caffè d’u parrinu’, mentioned by Nicoletta Agnello Hornby in her novel "Con un filo d’olio", an Arabic-inspired coffee flavoured with cloves, cinnamon and cocoa powder .

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Finally, a Neapolitan tradition that is slowly dying out is the practice of ‘caffè sospeso’, meaning suspended coffee: it’s the practice of paying for two coffees but only consuming one, leaving the other for a stranger to enjoy for free. Because every Italian loves good coffee, and there is no better feeling than that of sharing a cup with a stranger.

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For more information on Apulia and on our accommodation please visit our website.

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HAVE A GOOD HOLIDAY gianni di tano

I invit you to inform us about places, restaurants, bar, events and some other that you want to indicate us. Send us photos or diary about your apulian holidays so we can publish them in the future version of this guide. If you make this, you help us and the others travellers. Thanks ! ! !.

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Notes:

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