VOL. 1 ISSUE 3
NOVEMBER 2012
PHILIP TREACY’S
Catwalk Return the 0101 of love
fashion reimagined
Coming to your
SMART PHONE this holiday season.
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MANIERA makes shortlist for DMA2012 When I logged in to check which magazines made the Digital Magazine Awards 2012 (DMA) list of finalists, my stomach was in knots. I prepared myself to not see our name, and I would have been fine with that. Disappointed, but would have accepted the outcome and focused on next year. After all, we are a brand new magazine in real life publishing with a small team of people/avatars that have never actually met in real life. So... what are the odds of us making the shortlist? In 2010 MANIERASL was put in a pool of nominees. Out of thousands, the list was cut down to several hundred that were made nominees. From there the list was cut down to a few finalist — shortlisted. We made the nominee list for Best Editors but not the shortlist for finalist. I was very proud of that moment. Just to be nominated was an honor but making the finals was the ultimate dream. I knew we had a lot of work to do before reaching that goal. We were a virtual magazine in a virtual world. The concept was hard for the main stream media to fully understand. This year, it’s different. Yes, we are the same magazine in SL, maybe now with a sleeker style but the same aesthetics and concept. We are now a real life monthly magazine that shares the same brand and same aesthetics. Running two magazines in both the virtual and the real world — a feat that has never been done in virtual world publishing. So when I gathered the courage to read the list of finalist familiar and legendary names pop out — Newsweek, GQ, Stuff, Men’s Health, O (Oprah Winfrey Magazine). Then there were powerhouse publishing companies such as Hearst and Haymarket, and then I saw MANIERA (MANIERA LLC). I sat looking at the 6 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com
EDITOR’S NOTE
screen for what seemed ages, frozen, unable to move or to speak. When it fully “hit me,” I let out a high pitched squeal — so high pitched my poor dog Mojo, known for his laziness, even jumped. The awards will be held in Camden, London. Juliette Lord, our COO, will be representing MANIERA at the ceremony. I know we will be driving her crazy with texts throughout the awards presentation with questions. “What’s going on now?” “Who are you sitting next to?” etc. But, seriously I want to thank all our readers, advertisers, Linden Labs and our amazing Second Life and real life staff for all of their support and encouragement. Without each and everyone of you this dream would have never materialized. Yours Faithfully,
Thelma Lay
aka Topaz Joubert NOVEMBER 2012
NOVEMBER 2012
mymaniera.com | MANIERA | 7
editorial
Editor-in-Chief Thelma Lay
Read past issue of our digital publication at mymaniera.com/archive
Writers Cyntia Aranday, Gabriel Berger, Thelma Lay, Juliette Lord, Sara Lovelace Layout Artist Sara Lovelace
business
Publisher/Owner Thelma Lay Chief Operations Officer / Promotions Juliette Lord
about us
MANIERA Magazine is a fashion and lifestyle publication owned, operated and published by MANIERA LLC. Any views, opinions or interpretations expressed in columns are solely those of the author and do not represent those of Maniera LLC and its subsidiaries. Maniera LLC will not accept any responsibility for any views, opinions or interpretations expressed in the pages of Maniera Magazine, MyManiera.com or other communications.
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All editorial inquiries including submissions and feature ideas are to be sent to editorial@mymaniera.com.
business and advertising inquiries
All business inquires are to be sent to our chief operations officer at juliette.lord@mymaniera.com All advertising inquires are to be sent to advertising@mymaniera.com.
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In-SL: maps.secondlife.com/secondlife/Citizen%20Kane/111/126/22 Online: www.mymaniera.com Second Life速 and Linden Lab are registered trademarks of Linden Research Inc, and Maniera LLC is in no way affiliated or sponsored by the aforementioned party. 8 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com
NOVEMBER 2012
CONTENTS
NOVEMBER 2012 | VOL. 1 ISSUE 3
FEATURES VIRTUAL DATING
10 14
Three stories of love found virtually
THE TEA PARTY
Five basic staples
29
THE ULTIMATE GLAMOUR ACCESSORIES
Treacey’s LFW 2012 catwalk
24
BUSINESS OR FRANCHISE?
What you should know
56
THE GREAT MILLINER’S RETURN TO THE CATWALK
MANIERA sits down with Philip Treacy and talks hats
ON THE COVER PHILIP TREACY LFW 2012 |CHRIS MOORE
REGULARS Publisher’s Note Creative Focus Health & Beauty Mani Style Man Style Int. Travel
6 16 70 72 74 76
60
RECYCLING FASHION
Every day to couture
EXPLORING YORK
2,000 years of history
76
So two elves meet in a virtual fantasy world... |ART BY CYNTIA ARANDAY 10 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com
NOVEMBER 2012
JULIETTE LORD MANIERA STAFF Wherever a group of people regularly meet and communicate, relationships will be formed. Human beings are inherently social and inherently sexual, seeking out a mate or someone to love is a natural instinct. With ever changing technology the places we meet and socialise are changing rapidly and as a result so are the locations we are meeting our partners. Over the last 10 years Internet dating has become more commonplace. A report published by the University of Rochester in the journal Psychological Science in the Public Interest (January 2012) compares the findings of research conducted by Michael Rosenfeld from Stanford University and Reuben Thomas from City College of New York, in the early 1990s when less than 1 percent of the population met partners through printed personal advertisements or other commercial intermediaries. By 2005, among single adults Americans who were internet users and currently seeking a romantic partner, 37 percent dated online. By 2007-09, 22 percent of
heterosexual couples and 61 percent of same-sex couples had found their partners via the web. According to the report, those percentages are likely to increase. However, using Internet dating sites is quite different from traditional ways of meeting a mate. It is based on ticking a number of boxes to ascertain compatibility, rather
“My hubby and I met as night elves in a cavern fighting wart hogs” AKA
DATING in the VIRTUAL world
NOVEMBER 2012
than meeting someone and a relationship evolving. Virtual dating on the other hand, perhaps surprisingly, has more in common with historical methods of finding love. Virtual dating as opposed to Internet dating is where people meet up in some form of virtual world, such as Second Life® or in the massive multiplayer online role playing games (MMORPGs) such as Eve Online or World of Warcraft. In these gaming environments people will be represented by a character or avatar which can be anything from a human to a giant troll. The avatar is not meant to be mymaniera.com | MANIERA | 11
Behind the screen can be any type of person, including a soul mate or kindred spirit, but caution is still necessary.
a physical likeness of the person behind it. This is important because often in discourses surrounding the Internet in general there is an idea that people will attempt to deceive and that really that 17-year-old school girl is in fact a 55-year-old man. Technology has caught up with this issue in that video chat is now readily available to confirm basic issues of age and gender. Couple “A” met on the MMORPG World of Warcraft, as night elves, fighting wart hogs! From this somewhat unusual beginning the relationship began to develop very quickly: “The attraction was instant,” Couple A female said. “Maybe it was because he’s good at flirting and knows how to treat a woman. Maybe it was just the right timing. Maybe it was love at first ‘cite’... but whatever it was, for us it was meant
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to be. After running around playing on WoW for a couple weeks together, I got brave enough to chat to him on Yahoo messenger.” For some people virtual dating remains in the virtual and does not move into the “real world,” but for many the boundaries start to become blurred. Various methods of communication are added to the mix, instant messaging, the telephone and video chat, so that the relationship runs in both the real and the virtual simultaneously. Sometimes it goes further and people decide to meet. “This real online dating thing was new to me. I had always thought it was far too dangerous (I still do), and that anyone I met online was really an axe murderer just looking for their next victim. However, somehow he got through my barrier and convinced me there were some decent guys out there to NOVEMBER 2012
be met online. After seven months of hanging out I finally agreed to meet him in person… Now we’ve been together for four and a half years, and I can’t believe what he has done for me. I would not change anything for the world. I never expected to meet my husband online, but then life is full of the unexpected isn’t it?” “B” is a woman in her midtwenties and is a serial virtual dater, something she started in her early teens. She had a long-term friendship with a man named Alan and a relationship with a man named Alex who she calls her first experience with love. Her experiences have been varied including the biggest fear in virtual dating, that the person behind the avatar is not genuine: “But there was something a lot darker going on, and I had begun to suspect Alex and Alan of being the same person because back then, Internet was not especially stable and they would always disconnect at the same times. Alan confessed to being Alex, but he lied to me in times I asked him before that. He told me he’d been in love with me for years, and never knew how to tell me. He had been in a real life relationship for three years, and it was rocky... to say the least. He wanted to be who he felt he actually was - and that meant he created a persona and gave me everything I ever wanted in a partner at the time... To realize someone I loved never existed was very hard on me.” In spite of this “B” continued to date in virtual worlds and has had subsequent relationships that have led to meeting up in the real world relationship twice, the longest of NOVEMBER 2012
which lasted for over 2 years. For people who have never been involved in a virtual world this may all seem very strange and slightly weird. It is often assumed that it is physical attraction which drives a relationship, and of course there does need to be “chemistry” between a couple. But leaving that aside, dating in the virtual world involves really speaking to people and finding out about the other person in much the same way, and perhaps more honestly and intensely than in the real world. Gaming is a hobby, just like rock climbing or amateur dramatics. Gamers simply meet online rather than on a rock face or theatre stage. For many people what starts off in a game soon becomes very real. Couple “C” are a gay couple, one of whom lives in the USA and the other in the UK. “It was in April 2011 when we first got together as a couple ‘’officially,’ although we liked to tease our close friends about it for a few weeks before, just for fun,” They told MANIERA. “We had our Second Life® wedding in August of that year. Even though we were not together for such a long time, it just felt right for the both of us… We have already made the big step and met outside of the virtual world and it was just an amazing experience for the both of us. In fact, we are already planning our next two months together in the summer of 2013... and perhaps even more after that!” Perhaps virtual dating makes us consider what attraction is really about, and realise that it transcends the physical. Really it does not matter where you meet, and a virtual world is as good a place as any. mymaniera.com | MANIERA | 13
Anyone for Tea? BY JULIETTE LORD
reduced the tax on imported British tea, giving British merchants an unOn Nov. 29, 1773 the following fair advantage in selling their tea in was posted on a pamphlet all over the American colonies. In response the city of Boston. the tea cargo aboard the ships in “Friends! Brethren! Boston harbour were unceremoniCountrymen!--That worst of plagues, the detested tea, shipped for ously dumped into the sea Dec. 16. Of course, “British tea” was a this port by the East India Company, misnomer; no tea is grown in the is now arrived in the harbor.” United Kingdom. The offending Fortunately the tea was not tea was actually the property of the detested because of its inherent British-based East India company. qualities, but rather because of the In fact tea has been around for recently imposed Tea Act passed by approximately 5,000 years, and the British government in 1773 had 14 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com
NOVEMBER 2012
was originally discovered in China which remains a major producer and consumer of tea to the present date. Containing only one-third the amount of caffeine as a cup of filtered coffee, tea is enjoyed as a refreshing beverage the world over. It is estimated that there are around 1,500 different varieties of tea. The flavour of tea, like wine, is influenced by climatic conditions and the soil in which it is grown. However, there are several basic tea types:
green counterparts and has less caffeine. Traditionally originating in the Fujian province of China, they are made from leaf buds and leaves of the Da Bai (Big White) tea plant. Very young new leaf buds and baby leaves are simply gathered and dried - often in the sun. Look out for the Pai Mu Tan Imperial and Yin Zhen (literally silver needles) varieties. Again this type of tea is consumed without the addition of milk.
BLACK TEA
Black tea is the type of tea that ended up in the salty waters of Green teas are also known as Boston harbour almost 250 years non-fermented or unfermented teas. ago. It is widely produced in China, The traditional method of processIndia and Ceylon, and is the most ing green teas involves withering common tea drank by consumers (where the leaves are allowed to dry outside Asia. The major characterout slightly to make the leaf more istic of black tea is that after pluckpliable), heating, rolling and drying, withering and rolling, the leaves ing. The fresh leaves are spread out are allowed to brown in a process on bamboo trays and exposed to known as oxidation. Chinese teas sunlight or warm air for a couple of are oxidized very slowly, making hours then heated to prevent oxida- them mellower in flavour compared tion and preserve freshness. Finally, to Indian teas. Look out for Assam, the leaves are rolled into various Darjeeling, Dimbula and Nuwara. shapes and then dried. Almost all These teas can be drank with or green teas are produced in China without the addition of milk. and Japan. Some names to look out for are Gunpowder, Chun Mee (literally meaning Precious Eyebrows) These are teas which have been and the semi-oxidised Oolong, flavoured with the additions of which is a premium Chinese tea scents, oils or blossoms. The two somewhere between green and most popular are jasmine which is black. All these teas are best drank Chinese tea that has been mixed without milk. with dried jasmine blossoms to produce its unique floral tones, and Earl Grey, a blend of black China teas White tea is the least processed treated with natural oils of the citrus of all tea types. Because of its miniBergamot fruit, which gives the tea mal processing, white tea contains the characteristic perfumed aroma more nutrients than its black or and flavour.
GREEN TEA
SPECIALITY
WHITE TEA
NOVEMBER 2012
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Creative Focus Bursting with talent:
Mayumi Yamashita
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BY JULIETTE LORD Born in the small coastal area of Kagawa in southwest Japan, Mayumi Yamashita initially trained in fashion design at the Bunka Fashion College in Japan. In 2009 she moved to the United Kingdom to start a bachelor’s degree (Hons) in Contemporary Crafts at the University College Falmouth on the picturesque south Cornish coast. A year into the course Yamashita decided to try her hand at ceramics with spectacular results. Working mainly with clay, porcelain and stoneware, Yamashita uses a slip-casting technique to add tiny human figures to thrown, sculpted and slip-casted structures which create a narrative. “Without the small figures, my work might be just an object but as soon as I put teeny tiny people onto the piece, it starts to tell a story itself,” She explained. “I enjoy playing with it and have been fascinated with how the tiny thing affects whole piece.’ The tiny figures she uses are reminiscent of a miniature version of the awe-inspiring Terracotta Army discovered in Lintong, Xian, Shaanxi Province, China in 1974 and which were made in the Qin Dynasty sometime between 211-206 BC. Indeed it is modern day China which has inspired some of Yamashita’s work. “A Presage” is a stunning piece of tin-glazed porcelain inspired by traditional Chinese ceramics. Literally bursting at the seams with tiny porcelain figures, the piece is a metaphor for the rapid economic growth of China and the pressures of an increasing population on the environment. Unable to NOVEMBER 2012
CLOCKWISE — “A Presage” is a stunning piece of tin-glazed porcelain inspired by traditional Chinese ceramics; “gone but not forgotton” is inspired by the walled city Kowloon in Hong Kong; “Life is Peachy” and “Tower.” |”A PRESAGE” AND “GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTON” JAMES MANN
NOVEMBER 2012
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“Life is Peachy� features circles with tiny carved humanoid figures inside, a commentary on life and industry.
contain this growth the environment less. “We Must Be Hateful” is a modis broken and damaged. ern day take on the ancient Tower of “Gone But Not Forgotten” Babel, which the Book of Genesis tells takes on a similar theme. This time us was an attempt to build a tower so Yamashita takes her inspiration from high that it would ascend to heaven. Kowloon, Hong Kong. Kowloon was Yamashita asks the question, are we a walled city, often referred to as the really on top of the world or is it just largest slum in the world. In 1980, our own arrogance which makes us there were 10,742 households and an believe that we are. estimated Yamashita, 40,000 although a people livnarrative artist If you would like to have the ing in an likes to allow opportunity to interact with the area which some interpreworks of Yamashita, visit the was no tation by the following locations: more than viewer. 100 x 200 “My work ‘Look West’ at Oriel Davies Gallery sq. meters. is narrative but Wales, U.K. In 1993, I try to make Nov. 17 2012 – Jan. 23 2013 the walled it does not city was tell the whole The 7th 100 Artists Exhibition at Outorn down story allowing chi Gallery by the the audience Brooklyn, NY governto project their Jan. 4 - 27 2013 ment, and emotions and a city park ideas into the Contemporary Craft Tour 2013 now ocwork and to ‘Miniature Worlds’ with highlights cupies the interpret them rural touring scheme area. The in their own Cumbria/County Durham/Noroutside of way,” she said. thumberland, UK the vases “I found it’s Spring 2013 are decothe most difrated with ficult part but images of also the most the former dwellings in the area, and fun part in making process.” with the bulldozers which ripped the Nor does she really see herself as walled city down and spilled the pop- campaigning to change the world. ulation into the surrounding areas. She rather modestly tells MANIERA Both “Life is Peachy” and “We that “I’m not trying to shake people’s Must Be Hateful” were part of shoulders and tell them that we Yamashita’s degree show at Falmouth. should appreciate each other more. “Life is Peachy” explores the repetiMy work is nothing like as “noble” as tiveness and circularity of life, as well that. I just want to see how the audias commenting on the way humanity ence interacts with my pieces and is caught up in the wheels of industry, how they make up their own stories. disposable, replaceable and powerThat’s all I want.” NOVEMBER 2012
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A spectrum of color
First color film found after 110 years A snapshot from SARA LOVELACE Turner’s color video MANIERA STAFF shot in downtown London. |NMM
What do the “Wizard of Oz” and “Gone With The Wind” have in common? Well, they were the first use of color film in a moving picture… at least those were the most common answers to the question “What was the world’s first color movie?” until recently. In September, the National Media Museum (NMM) announced it had found a color film that predates these classics from the 1930s… by more than three decades and, until now, these newly-found films were
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considered a failure at best and nonexistent at worst. “These films were made by photographer and inventor Edward Turner using a process he patented with his financial backer Frederick Lee in 1899,” The Museum said of its discovery. “Experts at the Museum have dated the films to 1901/2, making these the earliest examples of colour moving pictures in existence.” So where was it all this time? The Museum acquired an archive from American film entrepreneur Charles Urban and found the film among his collection. “The film has been in our colNOVEMBER 2012
lection for 75 years and nobody has really done anything with it,” NMM Curator of Cinematography Michael Harvey said. “It had to wait until now when we had the means to do it. They could have thrown it in a bin 100 years ago and we would never have known it existed.” Urban and early film pioneer George Albert Smith used the basis of Turner’s first color film to create the first commercially successful Kinemacolor system, which they patented in 1906 – just three years
in a bowl against a brightly striped background and his children playing with sunflowers,” according to Harvey. But why was it considered a failure? For one, it was shot on special film and there was no way to actually process it for most people during Turner’s lifetime even though both he and Lee patented its development in 1899. More importantly, however, it was an extremely complicated process involving photographing black and white film through RGB
Experts at the Museum have dated the films to 1901/2, making these the earliest examples of colour moving pictures in existence. National Media Museum
after the death of Turner at 29-yearsold. However, Smith changed up the development system in favour of a much easier one to use because Turner’s method was considered too complicated. While Turner’s system utilized three colors – red, green and blue - Kinemacolor utilized only two: red and green. Turner developed the first color film by utilizing red, green and blue (RGB) strips which, when looked at on the film, look black and white but when combined together produce a muted display of color. On the film found by the museum are “colourful subjects such as a macaw, a goldfish NOVEMBER 2012
filters and then using a special projector to project it on screen. “It was quite important for us to reproduce the result and also to verify Turner’s system did actually work,” Harvey explained. When combined together, it created color, but while Turner’s method was a basis for the development of modern color film, it was considered unusable because he could never produce a clear image – it was always just a little fuzzy – and thus was never seen by the public until now. So the technology in the early 1900’s was simply not sophisticated mymaniera.com | MANIERA | 21
The famous tea party scene from Turner’s film that captiated audiences at the September screening. |NMM
enough to realize Turner and his financial backer Lee’s vision in the early 1900s. Now, 110 years later, The Museum joined forces with the BFI National Archive who began the process of transforming the film into a digital format. Due to its strange sizing from the projector, however, it had to be transferred onto a more standard 35mm film first before digitalizing it. Once digitalized, the film was viewable for the first time in over 100 years. “We sat in the editing suite entranced as full-colour shots made 110 years ago came to life on the screen,” Harvey said. “The image of the goldfish was stunning: its colours were so lifelike and subtle. Then there was a macaw with brilliantly coloured plumage, a brief glimpse of
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soldiers marching and, most interestingly, young children dressed in Edwardian finery. I realised we had a significant find on our hands. We had proved that the Lee and Turner process worked but it remained to identify who those children were and establish as precisely as possible when these first colour images were made.” With family records and dating of the film, the girl in the swing is believed to be his daughter, Agnes May Turner, at about age 6, while the film of the three other children at a tea party table are believed to be his other three children. But the ultimate question remains: could Turner, had he lived longer than 29 years, given the world a three colour motion picture experience decades ahead of time? NOVEMBER 2012
&
PRINCESSES POP STARS Milliner Philip Treacy returns to the London runway in 2012
BY JULIETTE LORD
the “Scream” video outfit, which include a pair of black Renown hat designer spandex pants with matchPhilip Treacy returned to ing long sleeve shirt and mesh the runway after 13 years of tuck strap and a suit from the absence at London Fashion “Bad” era. Week this year, and what a Many of the hats created return it was. for this collection by Treacy The show was opened by are a homage to Jackson, Lady Gaga resplendent in a including a merry-go round full-length pink veil. Treacy representing the singers Nethcombined the new season’s erlands home, a spangled hats with outfits from the late Micheal Jackson’s wardrobe. glove and matching spangled fedora hat. Featuring 25 black models “A hat is a positive symincluding Leomie Anderson, bol,” Treacy said. “A good Betty Adewole and Jourhat is the ultimate glamour dan Dunn, Jackson’s stage accessory. It thrills observers designs made a final public and makes the wearer feel appearance before they go like a million dollars.” up for sale at Julien’s AucFrom humble beginnings tions, Beverly Hills Gallery, Los Angeles. Items included Jack- in a small village in County Galway in the West of Ireland, son’s famous Thriller jacket, 24 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com
NOVEMBER 2012
Treacy has always had his ert, the then-fashion director eye on the glamorous. As a of the Tatler magazine, and child he would watch in won- his style editor Isabella Blow. der as the local church opBlow was so impressed with posite his home filled with the Treacy that a few weeks later congregation dressed in their she contacted him to request Sunday finery. From the age he make her a medieval style of five, he started sewing, headdress for her upcoming making hats and outfits for his wedding. The two became sister’s dolls. firm friends and worked toThese days his client list gether with Treacy actually reads like a celebrity who’s setting up his hat workshop in who, and the basehe has colment of “A hat is a positive laborated Blow’s mariwith some symbol. A good hat is tal home in of the top Belgravia, the ultimate glamour names in London. fashion In 1991, accessory. It thrills design: still just observers and makes 23-yearsRalph Lauren, Donna the wearer feel like a old, he Karen, began a million dollars.” Alexander 10 year McQueen, working TREACY Valentino, relationship Gareth with Karl Pugh, Lagerfeld at Givenchy, Paco Rabane and Chanel, his first design being Armani Privé, to name but a the famous twisted bird cage few. hat worn on the cover of He studied fashion at the British Vogue by model Linda National College of Art in Evangelista. Dublin before moving to LonTreacy held his first show don in 1988 to do his master’s in 1993 at Harvey Nicholls, degree at the Royal College London with a string of suof Art. Initially he made hats permodels including Christy as a sideline to go with his Turlington, Naomi Campbell, outfits, but fairly soon the hats Kate Moss and Yasmin Le Bon became the main focus. all modelling in the show in “We all have a head so return for free hats. everybody has the possibility Since then Treacy has of wearing a hat,” he excontinued to be at the top plained. of his game boasting clients In 1989 Treacy took one of such as Grace Jones, Celine his hats to show Michael Rob- Dion, Joan Collins and Goldie 26 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com
NOVEMBER 2012
Philip Treacy greeted his models after the show as they mixed and mingled at London Fashion Week 2012.
Hawn. He also made the four large disc hats for Lady Gaga for the MTV Europe Music Awards in 2011. But his only clientele are not just celebrities - he has made a multitude of hats for royal weddings, including the wedding in 2005 of HRH Charles Prince of Wales to Camilla Parker Bowles and a total of 36 hats for the 2011 wedding of William and Katherine, Duke and Duchess of Cambridge in 2011, including the famous “pretzel” hat worn by Princess Beatrice. He was awarded an OBE by the Queen in 2007 in recognition of his services to the British Fashion industry. In spite of being milliner to both the establishment and celebrity world, Treacy has also created practical hats for chain stores such as De-
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benhams in the United Kingdom, which sold at affordable prices. Treacy is versatile and creative in whatever market he operates. For those who fancy a special treat this Christmas, Treacy has collaborated with fine jewellery maker Asprey to create a couture cracker at just £1,500 (approximately $2,400 US) each. Only 80 of the crackers are being made which include not the usual plastic toy but a specially created pop-up Treacy hat, ribbon-shaped confetti and a collectors’ silver thimble engraved with the designers’ signature. And in the spirit of the season one special cracker will contain a Willy Wonka[d] style golden ticket, which can be exchanged for a bespoke made Philip Treacy hat. NOVEMBER 2012
Lady Gaga, who applied in 2010 to intern for Philip Treacy, opened his 2012 return to the catwalk at London Fashion Week which featured clothing from the late Micheal Jackson’s video and performance wardrobe, including the famous red coat from “Thriller.” The show was entirely walked by black models, including Leomie Anderson, Jourdan Dunn, Daphine Tony, Alek Wek and many others.
|CHRIS MOORE
London Fashion Week 2012
“Thank you Philip Treacy for using me for the past couple weeks and allowing me to have that once in a lifetime opportunity.” MODEL LEOMIE ANDERSON
Lady Gaga, far left, sits with milliner Philip Treacy after his show.
BEHIND THE SCENES
|CHRIS MOORE
Alek Wek charmed audiences with the matching white glove hat and glove.
the business
of being in
business and the art of franchising
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NOVEMBER 2012
CYNTIA ARANDAY MANIERA STAFF
and privileges-in short, by making deals,� Landes stated. Of course, this meaning of the concept started to change as time Consumers are all over the went by, and as new businesses apworld. People want to buy. They peared the owners constantly looked search for what they need or what for ways that would allow them would make their lives a lot easier, and for that there are people willing to reach more places without having the complete financial burden to invest in opening a business that on their shoulders. This is how the will cater to that constant need of modern form of franchise came acquiring everything that is being about. offered. For this reason, the world Nowadays, a franchise is a has seen an incredible amount of both new businesses and franchises business model which allows the expansion of a business by selling that keep being created. the freedom to use the concept to an One may be wondering which individual without paying any furone is better: a franchise or a busither royalties to the original owner. ness? Some people even think they In other words, the freedom and are exactly the same, or that one is privilege to use their brand and sell more expensive than the other. In the past, franchising was free what they sell without having to pay any further or investing too much in of some kind of payment, like taxes or payments that had to be given to the creation of a new business. Business creation, on the other some ruler to enter his land; as Dahand, is a lot older than franchising vid S. Landes mentions in his book “The Wealth and Poverty of Nations: in its modern form. In the middle ages, business was inherited from Why some are so rich and some so generation to generation. This had a poor.� lot to do with what skills you posEuropean rulers and enterprissessed and what your family did. For ing lords who sought to grow revexample, if your father was a blackenues...had to attract participants by the grant of franchises, freedoms smith, it was more than likely that
NOVEMBER 2012
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you would inherit this business, and your father would teach you how to work with iron. In this way, the family business would be handed down from father to son and so on. Even though some businesses still use this inheritance model, some new entrepreneurs started finding their way in creating and building businesses. With the appearance of consulting firms and how laws have evolved, it has become a lot easier for anyone to simply create their own business. “A franchise is more profitable than owning a business,” Oscar Espejo of Aranday y Asociados S.C., a consulting firm, said, “Because one belongs to a net, a chain and that can help you improve the business.” Many people facing the decision of buying or investing in a business face the big problem of not knowing which one would be the best for them. “Among the different types of franchises, the food industry is definitely the most prominent,” Espejo said. “It is the most profitable kind of business, but fortunately it is not the only one. These days there are more and more concepts that are looking into the possibility of franchising. It all depends on what kind of business
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you would be interested in owning or investing in and seeing the possibilities in the market as well as the demand (for the product).” Of course, when you want to finally do it you find yourself at a loss of words when you see the amount of possibilities being offered. For this most people turn to the specialists, people who have dedicated their lives to studying the world of franchises and business creation: consulting firms. This are always a good option when you feel lost and in need of help. As Espejo mentioned, in the future being part of a business franchise is better because you belong to an established chain of business and the risk of failure is reduced because you end up belonging to a corporation already established instead of risking your idea and not having a security net in an established name, product and brand when you first start up. In the end, creating a business and franchising a business are not supposed to be enemies. They cooperate and evolve together. Think of it like this: franchising cannot happen without the creation of business and a business cannot thrive if it does not expand.
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designs by Junky Styling
ReCycLING FASHION Reinventing every day into couture
JULIETTE LORD MANIERA STAFF
look fabulous and absolutely unique. Vintage or antique clothing offers the perfect recycling option and while designer items may not We are constantly being enbe cheap, clever shopping can still couraged to recycle our waste in produce amazing bargains. Vintage order to protect the environment. items can be purchased from highGreenhouse gas emissions, such as carbon dioxide, and methane, which end vintage clothes shops, auction houses and eBay right through to is produced when biodegradable waste such as cardboard break down your local charity shop. The term “vintage” is a loose one and covers in landfill sites, are created in the several decades right up to the ‘90s. manufacturing process. Recycling The main things to check for also cuts down on the use of natural are condition and quality. If you are resources, reusing old materials as good with a sewing machine, buying opposed to harvesting new ones. vintage makes even more sense, as On the face of it, fashion is the you will be able to alter the clothes antithesis of being environmento make a perfect fit. Try shopping tally friendly. Fashion by definition in thrift shops in or near well-to-do carries with it the idea of built in obsolescence, this season’s styles will neighbourhoods as you can often be replaced in a matter of weeks and uncover some real designer gems. Certain auction houses, such as the discarded. However, there are several ways Kerry Taylor Auction in London, specialise in vintage clothing. If you you can make a difference by making “green” fashion choices and still live in a major city, there is likely to NOVEMBER 2012
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Multiple designers have made unique and beautiful articles of clothing based on this concept of recycling clothing, casting doubt on fashion as a throwaway industry. FAR LEFT, clockwise — Silver Cameron of Decades Fashion; Caroline in the Studio and Annika Sanders and Kerry Seager of Junky Styling.
|DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN |CAROLINEJALLEN.CO.UK |JUNKYSTYLING.COM
be one close to you. If rooting through a pile of second hand clothes seems like too much hard work, then look to one of the specialised vintage stores available in your area. These often vary from cheap and cheerful to top-end designer with items available for all budgets. One of the classiest vintage stores is Decades on Melrose
Recycle. Reimagine. Rewear something
fabulous
Avenue in Los Angeles. Run by Cameron Silver, the store is bursting with antique clothing from top designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior. You can do the red carpet in gowns from this store without worrying if anyone else will be wearing the same dress. The Internet is also a great resource for buying vintage, but use a reputable website or eBay dealer as it may be difficult to ascertain the quality by just looking at an image online. A great site for vintage street 64 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com
wear is the Vintage Life site, illustrating that vintage does not have to be just about ballgowns and Chanel suits. Taking vintage and making it contemporary is the key to a great look. If you would like someone to do the hard work and creative design for you then Junky Styling may be just the place to look. Based in Hackney Road. Shoreditch, London this business has been running for the last 15 years. Self-taught designers Annika Sanders and Kerry Seager take old unwanted clothes, deconstruct them and produce something amazing. They run a service whereby customers can bring in their own items for what Junky Styling refers to as “wardrobe surgery.” This involves taking a customer’s own clothing and giving it a Junky Styling makeover, and turning it into an amazing contemporary piece and a whole new lease of life. If you are unable to visit the store it also has an online store with off-thepeg post-wardrobe surgery items available on its website, and ships to locations around the globe. Check out junkystyling.bigcartel.com for details. They have also produced a really great book which not only tells the designers’ story but which also provides step-by-step instructions on how to make your fashion items from deconstructed clothes. The book is available from Amazon. Meanwhile, Nancy Judd and her Recycle Runway concept takes recycling to a new level by using garbage to create couture art pieces. Judd’s designs are extremely labour intensive, often taking hundreds of hours to produce a single garment. For example, the Eco Flamenco dress took NOVEMBER 2012
Junky Styling
designs by Junky Styling
CLOCKWISE, from left — a new outfit composed entirely of recycled fashions by Junky Styling; two balloons incorporated into a broach piece by Caroline in the Studio; a dress formed from shredded and re-invisioned fabrics, Junky Styling; and a matchstick tin from Caroline In the Studio, who specializes in reinvisioned jewelry.
Junky Styling’s Eco Flamenco dress, left, took 650 hours to complete while a Jacques Heim couture oriental brocaded satin dress, circa 1959, right, was estimated at £6-800 by Kerry Taylor Auctions and, far right, the crime scene dress begs its viewers to exercise caution. | NANCY JUDD |KERRY TAYOR AUCTIONS |JAY STURDEVANT
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a total of 650 hours and was made with a multitude of cereal boxes painted with recycled paint which are transformed into cascades of ruffles, covering a dress made from parachute scraps. The ruffles contain over 5,000 eco-pledges, which are commitments of actions that people will take to help the environment. Recycle Runway is exhibited in airports, museums and shopping malls reaching millions of people with the message of sustainability. Reimagining every day items to create artistic pieces is not just restricted to clothing. Artist Caroline Allen has produced some stunning jewellery in her Boring is BeautiNOVEMBER 2012
ful range, using recycled everyday objects. “Through an investigation into material culture and context I aim to elevate the status of abandoned, lost, and overlooked objects,” Allen said. “By exploring the poetics of the every-day, my work champions the underdog, celebrates the banal and commemorates everyday experiences.” More of this talented artists work can be found at carolinejallen.co.uk. Her work will be displayed and available for purchase at the Look West exhibition at the Oriel Davies Gallery, Newtown, Wales, from Nov. 17 to Jan. 23, 2013. mymaniera.com | MANIERA | 69
HEALTH & BEAUTY
Eyebrow Trend:
Rita Ora |JASON KEMPIN/WIREIMAGE
B
ritish singer/songwriter Rita Ora is the latest in a long line of platinum beauties to combine her stunning blonde hair with jet black brows. This was also part of the signature look of celebrities Madonna, Scarlett Johansson and Gwen Stefani. However, there is a difference: Ora’s eyebrows do not follow the trend which has been around on the runway since Brooke Shields walked the runways of Europe of thicker flatter looking brows. These are classically thin and arched in shape, and so the first point of call to recreate the Ora eyebrow is a date with the tweezers, the wax pot or thread. You can either do this yourself at home or go to a professional salon. The best way to pluck your eyebrows is to first wash your face with warm water which will relax the hair follicle making it easier to pluck. Dry the face thoroughly and start by tweezing in the arch shape first from below the brow. Pull the hair in the direction in which it grows, removing the larger darker hairs first. Before removing any more hair on the first brow, put the second brow’s arch in. If you are removing any hair from above the brow do this next but try to follow the natural line of the brow and avoid over plucking above that natural line. Now remove any hairs growing in the middle between the two brows. At this point stand back and take a look in the mirror to check that both brows are even. Finally, fine tune and deal with any finer hairs remaining. An aloebased gel will sooth any skin irrita-
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tion caused by the plucking. Bold brows define a face and make your beauty stand out so the next stage is to colour in the brows using either an eyebrow pencil, or with a solid block of powder and a specially designed angled brush. Good brushes for beginners include Bare Essentials’ Angled Eyebrow Brush or Maybelline’s Expert Tools Brush ‘N Comb. Other Maybelline powder and brush combos also exist in compact form. First, start with the inner corner of the eyebrow and work your way up the brow creating a strong point for extra definition. When using a pencil, fill in the brow area using a series of light strokes rather than just drawing a simple line. This makes for a more natural look and ensures a better “fill” of colour. The other longer lasting option is to go to a salon and have them tinted, which can last for around a month. The final finishing touch is to use a specialised eyebrow gel which is brushed through, and keeps the eyebrows in place and prevents any stray hairs from spoiling the overall look. Eyebrow gel comes in small glass or plastic bottle with an attached brush, similar to mascara. The attached brush can also work as a small comb and is designed for grooming the eyebrows. The alternative to gel is an eyebrow wax which again is applied with a special brush and has the same effect of keeping the eyebrows looking neat and well-groomed. To enhance the perfect arch and create a perfect finish use a highlighting powder and whitening pencil to complete the look.
BARE ESSENTIALS Angled eyebrow brush $12 +S&H
MAYBELLINE Expert Tools Brush ‘N Comb $4.95 MSRP
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MANI STYLE
if the shoe fits ... BY THELMA LAY
|RUSLAN SEMICHEV
F
ootwear at one time was just that: footwear. We had sneakers for sports, dress shoes for special occasions and sandals for the summer. The rule of thumb for women was to have at least a black pump, navy blue pump and, in the US, to never wear white shoes after Labor Day, the first Monday of September. One has to ask when did this all change and how many pairs of shoes are too much? The answer may be a quote taken from the
The latest trend to emerge taking the fashion world by storm are what some may call “shoe clubs.” Replacing the music and book clubs of the ‘70s and ‘80s where one would order a list of books or tapes/ CDs and have them mailed directly to your home each month for a minimal monthly subscription fee. The concept is simple and fun: the customer goes online to register; answers a few questions and, based on your style profile, their team of stylist select shoes, handbags and accessories they feel suit your per-
My feet are still on the ground. I’m just wearing better shoes. - Oprah Winfrey
infamous Imelda Marcos, former wife of exiled Phillppine President Ferdinand Marcos who shocked the world with her 1,060 pair shoe collection: “If you know how much you’ve got, you probably haven’t got much.” Each week millions of women would watch the American television show Sex in the City (19982004) and would not only witness the main character Carrie Bradshaw’s ups and downs of finding love in the Big Apple but Bradshaw’s love affair with shoes. Sex in the City introduced the viewers to designers such as Jimmy Choo and Manolo Blahnik. Viewers not only dreamed about living in New York’s upper east side but also dreamed about having Bradshaw’s shoe collection.
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sonality. They promise high quality, stylish shoes selected especially for you at a reasonable price. Leading in this field is Shoe Dazzle founded by reality show and stylist Kim Kardashian and Brian Lee. co-founder of Legalzoom. Shoe Dazzle launched in 2009 and now boasts a membership of 13 million as of June 2012. With the success of Shoe Dazzle, the consumers now are wanting to feed their shoe addiction more. Other major names include justfab by supermodel and CEO of BabyPhat Kimora Lee Simons and shoemint by actress Rachel Bilson, celebrity Nicole Chavez and legendary shoe maker Steve Madden. So if the shoe fits... go online and order another pair!
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MAN STYLE
Are we just
SKIRTING THE ISSUE? BY JULIETTE LORD
S
kirts are not just for girls. The association between skirts and femininity seems firmly entrenched in the western psyche, but this has not always been the case. Both historically and crossculturally some of the most macho men around have no qualms about ditching the pants and flashing some leg. These correlations between gender and clothes are not cast in stone, they fluctuate in varying cultural, political and economic climates. Take the kilt. Although now seen as the national dress of Scotland, it began life in the Highlands around 1550. A large cloth was put into heavy pleats on the ground, the wearer then lay on it, wrapping it round his stomach, and securing the pleats in place by pulling it tight with a belt. What was left of the material was then draped over one shoulder and also secured into the belt. The word kilt is not of Celtic origin but comes from Old Norse. Modern day 74 | MANIERA | mymaniera.com
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kilts, shorter and without the Malaysia and Bali; the kaftan shoulder wrap, emerged in and the djellaba across the the 18th century. The English Arab world; the dhoti in India banned the wearing of the and the sulu in Fiji. kilt in the Acts of Proscription In 1985, designer Jean Paul from 1746-82 and kilt wearers Gaultier made an attempt could be punished by seven to bring men’s skirts back to years transportation the West but with limto the Australian ited success, and colonies. The kilt David Beckham was seen not caused a storm as a signifier when he was of femininity photographed but of politiin 1998 wearcal rebellion, ing a sarong and no one whilst out with could ever his wife Victoria question in the South of William WalFrance. lace’s masMaybe it is culinity. now time for But men the guys to emwere wearing brace change skirts long beand once and for fore they caught all break the link on in the Highbetween clothlands. ing and gender. Ancient EgypA woman weartians wore skirting pants is just Models walk the like garments, as that, a woman runway showcadid the Romans, wearing pants, seing designs by both in the form while a man in a Priyo Oktaviano of the toga and skirt is considered at the Dewi Fashas part of their a cross-dresser ion Knights, during battle armour. and potentially Jakarta Fashion Who can forget an object of Week 2013 at Plaza the image of ridicule. Women Senayan Nov. 9 in all the hot men reclaimed the Jakarta. in skirts in Ridley wearing of pants | IRVAN ARRYAWAN/ Scott’s 2000 film a century ago as FEMINAGROUP Gladiator? a symbol of politiAcross the cal equality, but globe men in many cultures until men are allowed to wear continue to wear skirt like gar- a skirt without fear of ridicule ments; the kimono in Japan; then the job remains only half the sarong in Thailand and done. NOVEMBER 2012
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2,000 years of history
YORK JULIETTE LORD MANIERA STAFF
gateways into the city, called bars, as well as 34 of their 39 interval towers. Lying beneath these medieval walls Situated between the capital cities are the stone remains of even older walls dating back to Roman times. of London and Edinburgh, historic York is a city which offers something Although some parts of the walls to see the whole year round. Known were demolished in the 19th century, it is still possible to take a walk by the Romans as Eboracum, the around the elevated perimeter which city began life around 100 A.D. and manages to pack a full 2,000 years of affords fantastic views of the city. On the Nov. 1, 866 A.D. York history inside its medieval walls. received some unwelcome visiThese city or “bar� walls of York tors. Led by Halfdan and Ivar the are the most complete example of Boneless, a Viking invading force medieval city walls still standing in defeated the ruling Northumbrian England today, extending for two kings and decided York was a good and one-half miles. The walls still place to settle and renamed it Jorretain all four of their impressive
The historical ruins of St Mary’s Abbey in Museum Gardens in the daytime NOVEMBER 2012 |GARETH BUDDO/VISITYORK.ORG
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Clockwise - Discover Coppergate at Jorvik Viking Centre; City walls in autumn with York Minster in the background; The Shambles on a busy day looking down to Little Shambles in York; Girl serving cakes in Bettys. |JORVIK VIKING CENTRE; PAUL CROSSMAN; |JIM RICHARDSON/VISITYORK.ORG
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vick. Astonishing evidence of this settlement can be seen at the Jorvick Viking Centre. Between the years 1976-81 archaeologists from York Archaeological Trust unearthed the houses, workshops and backyards of the Viking-Age city of Jorvik hidden beneath a car park. The Jorvick Viking Centre was built around the site, allowing the archaeology to be viewed in-situ. In addition to this a simulated Viking town was created using life size model figures in authentic Viking surroundings replete with the sounds and smells of what life in York was like over 1,000 years ago. The centre is a must-see and has become one of the most visited tourist attractions in the UK and advanced booking is recommended to avoid the long queues. York boasts several museums, including The National Rail Museum which spans 300 years of railway history and includes over 100 locomotives on display, and the York Castle Museum which in addition to conventional museum exhibits boasts the world-famous recreated Victorian street. If you prefer your history to be of the gory and macabre type then the York dungeon is the place for you. Take an actor-led tour through some of York’s more grisly past, including the hanging of notorious highwayman Dick Turpin, the treachery of York born Gunpowder Plot protagonist Guy Fawkes and the terrible deeds of Viking King Eric Bloodaxe. Pestilence, plague and executions aplenty, and with surprises at every corner, this is definitely not one for anyone of a nervous disposition. Originally opened in 637A.D., York Minster, the largest gothic NOVEMBER 2012
cathedral in northern Europe, dominates the York skyline. A climb up the central tower, past hideous gargoyles, is well worth the effort, as on a clear day you will be rewarded with spectacular views across the Yorkshire countryside. In addition to the truly awe inspiring architecture and beautiful stained glass, the Minster also is home to vast collections of historical artefacts, and an extensive library. Across from the Minster you can shop until you drop in one of the most famous of York’s medieval streets, The Shambles. Voted Britain’s Most Picturesque Street 2010, The Shambles is a collection of precariously wonky 15th century shops and houses which tilt so far that the roofs almost touch in the centre of the street. The word Shambles originates from the medieval word Shamel, which meant booth or bench. It was also referred to as Flesshammel, as historically it was a street of butchers shops and houses. The butchers are long gone but you can now enjoy a variety of cafes, restaurants and quaint shops in this still vibrant street. And after all the sightseeing and shopping where better to relax than the famous Betty’s tearooms. Located in the lovely St. Helen’s Square. Designed in the 1930s, Betty’s elegant Art Deco Belmont room with enormous curved windows, wood panelling and ornate mirrors, transports you back to another age. The afternoon tea is a quintessentially English experience, accompanied to music from a live pianist; you will be served dainty sandwiches, freshly baked miniature scones and exquisite handmade cakes at your table. mymaniera.com | MANIERA | 79
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