TODAY ISSUE NUMBER 14 • MARCH 2012
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Mummies’ Yummies makes office lunches Homecooks go vegeterian Saturday morning ravjulata with Pippa Mattei OVER
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March 2012
GOURMET TODAY
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Homecooks go meat free Michael Diacono warms you through the winter Yummy office lunches by Mummies’ Yummies Santa Lucija girls make a Maltese meal Make your own ravioli the Pippa Mattei way Lenten sweets to keep the fast Sicilian specials created by Don Serafino Wine travellers take a trip to the majestic Langhe in Piemonte A fishtastic favourite – La Favorita Simon Azzopardi makes entertaining look easy Vitamin filled powerhouses Maltese oranges Recipe index
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Winter is a horrible time of dark, grey days and temperatures our Mediterranean bodies aren’t used to. However, from a culinary perspective the winter brings with it opportunities for long lazy afternoons of lingering lunches, warming soups and plenty of layers of clothing that hide the extra kilos that are bound to creep up on you over the winter. Pippa Mattei spends the day in the kitchen preparing a ravjulata for friends. Fresh pasta, delightful fillings which include seasonal ingredients like pumpkin and artichoke, and simple sauces make a delectable meal, and what’s more is that you can invite friends over early to help stuff and cut the ravioli as part of the entertainment. Don’t feel like cooking? Spend a long lunch, feasting on Sicilian specials at Don Serafino where the team strikes the prefect balance of choosing the best of local ingredients with a number of treasures from the shores of neighbouring Sicily. Great food does not have to be restricted to the weekends. Chrys Mangion has provided the answer to office lunches having set up a new company Mummies’ Yummies. Gone are the days where the only option for office lunch is a ham and cheese sandwich. Chrys Mangion delivers some yummy, healthy soups and mealpots right to your office, using the magic ingredient of love, just like mummy does. We hope this issue of GOURMET Today provides you with ideas to keep you warm through the cold season and look forward to seeing you again in warmer times. Bon appétit!
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Vjal ir-Riħan, San Ġwann SGN 9016 Malta Tel: +356 382741 Fax: +356 21381992 www.maltatoday.com.mt
47 Managing Editor: Saviour Balzan Editor: Rachel Zammit Cutajar gourmet@mediatoday.com.mt
Design: Kevin Grech Photography: Ray Attard Head of sales: Adriana Farrugia Contact for advertising: Matthew Alex Xuereb – 21382741 ext: 124
Cover: Chrys Mangion Cover photo by Ray Attard Printed at: Print It Printing Services
HOME COOKS
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Lent is here, with its forty days of fasting and no meat Fridays. Our Homecooks prepare a meat-free meal that is just as indulgent, and what is even better is that it can be prepared quickly. Gaby Holland prepares a warm beetroot and chevre salad, Ann Gatt goes for a warming risotto with Jerusalem artichokes and Sandra Dimech serves a steaming apple and pear crumble with an oaty topping, served with fresh cream for dessert.
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD
March 2012
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March 2012
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GOURMET TODAY
Roasted beetroot and chevre salad
Serves 4
Ingredients • • • • • • • •
4 beetroots, washed and scrubbed clean 8 shallots Fresh broad beans, peeled and blanched 250g chevre Shelled and chopped walnuts Rucola, beet leaves, or other salad leaves Olive oil Salt and pepper
Dressing • Extra virgin olive oil • Juice of a lemon • 1 tsp wholegrain mustard • 1 tsp honey • Salt and pepper Garnish (optional) • Fresh marrow flowers • 100g soft chevre (or some ricotta) • Coarsely ground pepper • Olive oil
Method 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.
Place beetroots in a double sheet of foil, drizzle with some olive oil and season. Wrap foil loosely and place in a preheated at 200°C. Roast for about one hour. Open foil and add the shallots and roast for a further 14 to 20 minutes until shallots and golden. Cut the beetroots into bite sized pieces and place in an oven-proof dish. Scatter with the crumbled goats cheese and bake or grill until the cheese is starting to melt. Whisk all the ingredients of the dressing and set aside. Serve a portion of beetroots and cheese over a bed of salad leaves. Scatter the walnuts, shallots and blanched broad beans and drizzle all over with the dressing. Take a teaspoon of cheese and roll in black pepper and stuff the fresh marrow flowers. Fry lightly in a non-stick pan and use as a garnish to the salad.
Suggested wine: 35º SOUTH SAUVIGNON BLANC BY VIÑA SAN PEDRO The Sauvignon Blanc combines the main features of the Curicó and Elqui valleys, obtaining a very balanced and intense wine. Curicó contributes with some fruity and citric notes, while the Elqui offers its fresh and mineral touches. During the whole vinification process the grapes underwent a brief resting on its light lees, in order to gain final complexity. A very fruity wine, with a pleasant acidity.
THE PERFECT EXPRESSION OF TWO VALLEYS IN A RESERVE WINE
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Malta - Attard & Co. Foodstuffs Ltd. Tel: 21 237555 Gozo - Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd. Tel: 21 563231
March 2012
Artichoke risotto
Ingredients: • • • • • • • • • •
1kg Jerusalem artichokes 6 artichokes hearts cooked and quartered Fresh garlic, finely chopped Fresh parsley, finely chopped Olive oil 120g Parmeggiano Reggiano, shredded 1 litre vegetable stock 1 full glass of white wine 500g arborio rice 1 large onion, finely chopped
Method 1.
Peel and chop the Jerusalem artichokes and place in a pot half filled with water and with a dash of white wine, 3 tbps olive oil, a dash of vinegar, salt and pepper, together with some chopped parsley and garlic (reserve some of the parsley and garlic for later). 2. When cooked drain and keep the liquid to use with your risotto. 3. When the Jerusalem artichokes are cooked, start the risotto. 4. In a pan pour some olive oil, add the onions and fry lightly. 5. Add the artichoke hearts and continue to fry. 6. Add the rice. 7. Pour the glass of white wine and let the rice absorb all the liquid. 8. Now alternate the vegetable stock and the liquid you have reserved from the Jerusalem artichokes, every now and again adding some of the Jerusalem artichokes until they are used up and the rice is cooked through. 9. Add the Parmiggiano Reggiano and stir in. 10. Garnish with parsley and garlic, coarse black pepper and drizzle some olive oil.
Suggested wine: 35º SOUTH MERLOT RESERVA This Chilean wine is ruby red in colour with a touch of orange, aromas of dry plums, raisins and red fruits, and notes of toffee. On the palate 35° South Merlot presents mature tanins and is silky and velvety. This is an average to full-bodied wine with great maturity.
GOURMET TODAY
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GOURMET TODAY
Apple and pear crumble
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Ingredients
• 4 apples, peeled, cored and cut into chunks • 4 pears, peeled, cored and cut into chunks • Grated zest of 1 lemon • Juice of half a lemon • 50g sultanas • ½ tsp ground cinnamon • 40g demerara sugar For the crumble topping • 125g plain flour • 100g toasted nuts roughly chopped (use any nuts you like) • 50g porridge oats • ½ tsp ground cinnamon • 75g soft brown sugar • 50g demerara sugar • 150g cold salted butter, cut into chunks
Method 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
7. 8.
Preheat oven to 190°C. Put the chopped apples, lemon zest and sugar in a saucepan. Add lemon juice and sultanas and cook for 3-4 minutes. Add the pears and cinnamon and cook for a further 2-3 minutes. Tip the fruit and juices into an ovenproof dish. Put flour in a mixing bowl, rub in the butter until it resembles breadcrumbs (you can whiz flour and butter in food processor), and stir in the sugars, oats, cinnamon and nuts. Scatter crumble on top of the fruit and bake for about 3540 mines until golden. Serve warm with fresh cream, ice-cream, Greek yoghurt or custard.
Suggested wine: VIÑA SAN PEDRO LATE HARVEST RIESLING Hailing from Chile, this inexpensive late harvest Riesling delivers with aromas and flavours of honey, apricot, fresh peach and caramel. Though perfect on its own, a fruit tart, apple pie or gingerbread will make this wine even more enjoyable. This Viña San Pedro Late Harvest Riesling will also pair nicely with an aged cheddar.
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March 2012
GOURMET TODAY
Long cold winter Jerusalem artichoke and Parmesan soup
• • •
• • • • •
Serves 6
MICHAEL DIACONO
I
am a great winter lover. I tend to get up in a better mood if the sky is overcast and it is raining. I much prefer the country side with its many different shades of green. The country looks so much cleaner and orderly. And the kitchen is a much cooler place to be in. Having said all that, I seem to be having difficulty keeping myself warm this winter and for the first time in my life I think I am looking forward to warmer days. The following two recipes are great winter warmers and very popular at Giuseppi’s, Mellieha, when on the specials list. The Jerusalem artichoke is a tuber that many people tend to avoid due its particular qualities, which is a pity, as it makes for great eating. Simply stewed with garlic, parsley and chili is maybe the most common method of preparing this vegetable, but there are many other ways of serving. They may be sliced very thinly when raw, then dressed in olive oil and lemon and served with rocket and bread, or try poaching in salted water then dipping in a light beer batter and deep frying. At the restaurant we are preparing a wonderful risotto with Jerusalem artichokes and Tallegio . Michael Diacono is chef patron at Giuseppi’s restaurant in Mellieha. Open Monday to Saturday dinner from 7.30pm and for Sunday lunch. Reservations on 99493579 or 21 574882 Giuseppi’s Mellieha has no connection with any other restaurant bearing a similar name.
Melt the butter in a deep pot and stir fry the onions for a few minutes till softened but still white. Add the well peeled artichokes and cook for a few more minutes, stirring frequently. Add the stock and bring to the boil. Season, cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the cream and nutmeg, blend, and pass through a sieve if necessary, into a clean pot. Stir in the grated Fiorucci Parmesan and serve hot.
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50g butter 2 onions, chopped 500g Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and washed 900 ml chicken or vegetable stock Salt and pepper 150 ml fresh cream Grated nutmeg 5 tbs grated Fiorucci Parmesan
SUGGESTED WINE 35º SOUTH SAUVIGNON BLANC
A fruity white wine with citric notes, fresh mineral touches and a pleasant acidity.
Penne with Jerusalem artichokes • • • • •
• • • • • • •
450g Buitoni penne rigate 2 tbs Buitoni extra virgin olive oil 1 onion, chopped 4 cloves garlic, chopped 750g Jerusalem artichokes, scrubbed and washed Pinch of chili Salt and pepper Finely chopped parsley 200ml vegetable stock 4 fresh tomatoes, peeled and chopped Shavings of Fiorucci Grana Padano, to serve. Artichokes, chopped into chunks and kept in cold water.
Heat oil in a pot and soften onion and garlic. Add drained artichokes and season with salt, pepper and chili. Stir fry for a couple of minutes then add the parsley. Add the stock and cover. Simmer gently for about 15 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes and cook for a further 10 minutes till the artichokes are tender. Meanwhile cook the pasta in salted water till al dente and serve tossed with the sauce and Parmesan shavings. SUGGESTED WINE 35º SOUTH MERLOT
This Chilean wine is ruby red in colour with a touch of orange, aromas of dry plums, raisins and red fruits, and notes of toffee.
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GOURMET TODAY
Just like mummy’s Good, homecooked office lunches are hard to come by unless you’re lucky enough to be able to pop into your parent’s house for a quick bite to eat. Chrys Mangion started off her company, Mummies’ Yummies, delivering soups to offices and has now expanded to include more filling mealpots and decendant desserts. Every meal is made with the love and passion she has always had for food, that secret ingredient that sets mummy’s cooking apart from the rest.
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March 2012
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GOURMET TODAY Red lentils are an inexpensive and great source of protein. they are also a very good source of cholesterol-lowering fibre.
Spiced red lentil and tomato soup Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • •
1 large onion 2 cloves garlic 1 tsp garam masala 1 tsp cumin powder 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp tumeric 2 tins chopped tomatoes 400ml water 200g red lentils Salt and pepper to taste Small tin coconut milk (optional)
Method
1. Fry the onion and garlic, add spices until fragrant. 2. Add the tomatoes bring up to a boil and add water and lentils. 3. Simmer for approx 30 mins or until lentils are tender. 4. Season with salt and pepper. 5. For a creamier version of this soup add a small tin of coconut milk at the end.
March 2012
March 2012
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Thai green curry paste Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Thumb sized piece of ginger 2 red onions 2 green chillies 2 stalks of lemongrass 4 garlic cloves 6 kaffir lime leaves Juice of a lime 1 large handful of fresh coriander 1 tin coconut milk (400ml) 3 tablespoons vegetable or sunflower oil Seasoning Fish sauce (to taste, around 2 tsp) ½ tsp of sugar
4. 5.
6.
a quarter of the coconut milk and blitz until smooth. In a pan heat a little oil and tip out the blended mixture. Fry until fragrant for around 10 mins. At this point you can either place it in a sterilized jar or portion it into plastic bags and freeze. The mixture above will make around 4 portions of curry paste. Alternatively you can take half the mixture out of the pan and make a curry.
Method 1. 2. 3.
Peel the onions, ginger and garlic. Trim the lemongrass and remove any of the hard outer stalks. Place all of the above ingredients in a blender with
Thai green chicken curry Ingredients • • • • •
A mixture of chicken pieces. I like to use bone in drumsticks, boneless thighs and chicken breast The remaining coconut milk from the curry paste 400ml chicken stock or water Fish sauce or soy sauce for seasoning Fresh green chilli, a spring onion and fresh coriander to garnish
Method
1. While the paste is still in the pan, add the remaining coconut milk and the chicken stock. 2. Bring up to the boil and add the chicken pieces. 3. Now simmer for approx 25 to 30 minutes depending on the quantity of chicken you’ve added. 4. Garnish with some slices of green chilli, spring onion and some fresh coriander leaves.
In this recipe I added some local bok choi to the chicken, right at the end. You can add a variety of veggies to this curry such as aubergines, french beans, peas or even courgettes. Vegetables make a healthier alternative to rice.
For more information find Mummies’ Yummies on Facebook or contact Chrys at chrys.brace@gmail.com
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March 2012
Doughnut sticks with chocolate dippy sauce This is by far the easiest dessert ever! I love making them when we feel like something sweet and fast.
Ingredients • •
• • • • •
400ml boiling water 260g flour (self raising or plain with a added teaspoon of baking powder) 2 tsp butter or oil 20g of sugar Vegetable oil, for frying Zest of an orange Plenty of sugar for rolling
For the chocolate sauce • • •
100g chocolate Knob of butter 50ml cream (or even milk, if your cupboards are bare)
Method 1.
In a pan, bring the water and oil to the boil and add the butter to melt. 2. Mix the flour and 20g sugar in a bowl, then slowly pour in the hot water mixture. 3. Using a fork quickly mix the water in. 4. You should have a stiff sticky dough, a bit like glue, but don’t overwork it. 5. Heat the vegetable oil to 170°C in a fryer or heavy-based saucepan. 6. Quickly and with light hands roll the dough into longish sticks. If its very sticky, flour your hands and that should help you roll them up easily. 7. Place a few at a time into the fryer. 8. They should take about 3-5 minutes to cook until they are golden and crispy on the outside and fluffy in the middle. 9. Lift out of the oil, drain on kitchen paper. 10. In a tray mix the orange zest with a good amount of sugar, then toss with the hot doughnuts to coat. For the chocolate sauce 11. Place the ingredients in a small pan and heat gently. 12. Stir until the butter and chocolate has melted and the sauce is smooth and glossy. Don’t heat too much as the chocolate and cream will split. If you fancy a grown ups alternative to this add a little liquor of your choice. 13. Serve the warm dough sticks with the hot sauce immediately.
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Junior Cooks
In the world of education, academic subjects are top priority, often at the expense of important skills. At Santa Lucija girls school, cooking is still a priority that attracts a following of about a hundred students to their twice weekly cooking club. The girls are even publishing their very own cook book, specialising in Maltese cuisine. The very excited Charmaine Falzon, Endrea Gomez and Shakira Mangion provide a sneak peak of what is to come.
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Cooking at school
Spaghetti with Maltese sausage Ingredients • • • • • • • •
1 onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 Maltese sausages, skinned 400g tinned tomatoes 2 tubs fresh cream 1 gbejna Handful parsley, chopped 500g spaghetti
Method
1. Start by frying the onion until translucent. 2. Add the garlic, the add the Maltese sausage and fry until the meat is cooked through 3. Add the tomato sauce and turn the heat to low. 4. Simmer for at least 30 minutes. 5. Add the cream and chopped gbejna. 6. Boil the spaghetti until al dente. 7. Mix the sauce and the pasta. 8. Garnish with chopped parsley and pieces of chopped gbejna.
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JUNIOR COOKS
March 2012
JUNIOR COOKS
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Traditional brajoli Ingredients
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
1 onion 400g tinned tomatoes 1½ carrots, chopped Handful peas 1 chicken cube 3 cloves garlic 200g minced beef 1 tbsp Worchestershire sauce 1 tbsp soy sauce 2 Maltese sausage 2 eggs, raw 3 slices flank steak 100g bacon 1 potato 2 eggs, hard boiled 2 mushrooms 1 tsp curry powder Handful parsley
Method 1. 2.
Fry about one third of the onion in olive oil till translucent. Add the tomatoes, carrots, peas and chicken cube, season with salt and pepper and leave to simmer. 3. In another pan, fry the rest of the onions and garlic in olive oil, add the minced meat, seasoning, Worchestershire and soy sauce. 4. Add the Maltese sausage. 5. When the mixture is cooked, place in a food processor add the raw eggs and blend until smooth. 6. Open up the flank steak, line with bacon and add the blended, minced mixture. 7. Put a hard boiled egg in the middle and roll the brajoli, holding together with a toothpick. 8. Fry the bragoli in a pan to seal. 9. Add the mushrooms to the pan. 10. Add curry powder to the tomato sauce. 11. Add the bragoli and the mushrooms to the tomato sauce and leave to simmer for 10 minutes 12. Remove the toothpicks. Cut the bragoli in half and serve on a bed of tomato sauce, garnished with parsley and a side of boiled potatoes or chips.
March 2012
JUNIOR COOKS
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Tris of Maltese desserts Imqaret Ingredients Dough • 800g flour • 200g butter • 100g sugar • 1 tbsp anisette • 1 tbsp orange blosson water (ilma zghar) Filling • 500g dates • 1 tbsp anisette • 1 tsp mixed spice • 1 tsp orange blossom water (ilma zghar)
Method 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.
To prepare the dough rub the butter into the flour. Add the sugar and mix. Moisten with anisette and orange blossom water until a soft dough is formed. For the filling, mash the dates and mix with anisette, mixed spice and orange blosson water. Roll the dough out into a long wide strip and spread the filling on the top half of the dough to form a layer about a quarter of an inch thick. Wet the edge of the pastry and fold over to cover the filling. Press the edges together to seal. Cut into diamond or triangular shapes. Deep fry in hot oil till golden in colour. Drain and leave on kitchen roll to let excess oil run off. Serve hot covered in honey.
Bread pudding Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • •
1 loaf stale bread 120ml milk 500g dried fruit (sultanas, raisins, prunes etc) 1 dash brandy Spices (mixed spice, cinnamon, cloves) 2 tbsp cocoa powder 200g sugar (or honey) 1 lemon, juice and zest 1 orange, juice and zest 1 tangerine, juice and zest 3 eggs, beaten 1 apple
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Soak the bread in milk. In a separate bowl soak the fruit in the brandy. Add the spices, zest, honey, chocolate and egg. Combine the two mixtures using your hands. Grease a baking dish and put the mixture into one large dish or smaller individual dishes. Bake for approximately 45 – 50 minutes in a 180°C oven, until a skewer in the centre comes out clean.
Method
6.
Cannoli Ingredients Dough • 600g flour • 100g lard • 100g sugar • 2 tsp baking powder • 300 – 500ml red wine Filling • 400g ricotta • 150g sugar • 150g candied peel • 50g chocolate chips
Method 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
In a medium bowl, mix together the flour and sugar. Cut in the lard. Make a well in the centre and pour in the wine. Mix with a fork until the dough becomes stiff, then finish it by hand, kneading on a clean surface. Knead for about 10 minutes, then cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours. Divide the cannoli dough into thirds, and flatten each one just enough to get through the pasta machine. Roll the dough through successively thinner settings until you have reached the thinnest setting. Place the sheet of dough on a lightly floured surface. Cut out 4 to 5 inch circles. Dust the circles with a light coating of flour. Roll dough around cannoli tubes, sealing the edge with a bit of egg white. Deep fry shells on the tubes a few at a time for 2 to 3 minutes, until golden. Leave to drain on kitchen roll to remove excess oil. Remove the shell when cool enough to handle. To make the filling, stir together the ricotta cheese and sugar using a spoon. Fold in the chopped peel and chocolate. Fill the cannoli with the ricotta mixture and dust with icing sugar.
March 2012
made in
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Malta - Attard & Co. Foodstuffs ffs Ltd. Tel: 21 237555Gozo - Abraham’s Supplies Co. Ltd. Tel: 21 563231 ff
Italy
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GOURMET TODAY
Ravjulata At this time of year husband John and I have a ravjulata on a Saturday morning when John prepares fresh pasta and I prepare fillings of gbejniet and ricotta or roasted pumpkin and mascarpone or sometimes fresh globe artichokes.wwwThe invited guests come early and try their hand at filling/folding and cutting the ravioli. Great fun, and absolutely delicious. The sauces are simple fresh tomato, or sage and butter.
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Home made ravioli Makes approx 130 ravioli Serve about 10 to 12 ravioli per person –so the following amount will serve approx 10 people using two of the fillings, (6 of each type of ravioli) unless they are very hungry! If you prefer to just do one of the fillings, make half the dough, or use half and freeze the rest for another time.
The pasta dough Ingredients • 800g plain white flour (and some extra for the surface where you roll the pasta sheets) • ½ tsp salt • 6 eggs, plus 1 tbsp olive oil and some water or more eggs • 200g semolina (and some extra for the trays which you place your ravioli on)
Method
1. Put flour, semolina and salt in a food processor, add eggs, oil and pulse till all comes together and forms a loose ball of dough. Add water or more eggs if too dry. 2. Now take out and knead with your palm till dough is smooth and elastic. 3. When ready wrap in a plastic bag, and leave in the fridge for half an hour. 4. When ready to use, bring to room temperature, and use a pasta machine to roll out sheets to the thin setting of 0.5. You can roll out strips of pasta dough by hand, as long as you get it to the right thickness. The sheets should be 10cm wide and about 80cm long, and should be on a well floured surface. Also have some trays ready with a sprinkling of semolina on them on which to place your ravioli when ready. 5. Put one heaped teaspoon of your chosen filling (see below), at intervals of 4cm. Brush pastry with water and then fold pastry in half over the fillings, and press down edges with two fingers in between the filling moulds. 6. Using a roller cutter or a cup or cookie cutter, cut pastry where you have pressed with your fingers. 7. Place the ravioli on your prepared trays, not overlapping, so they do not stick together (the semolina will help avoid this). 8. When all the ravioli have been prepared, bring a large pan of water to the boil, and add several ravioli at a time, and cook till pastry is cooked through. 9. Drain well in a colander, and serve with your chosen sauce. I serve the gbejniet and ricotta ravioli with a tomato sauce, and the pumpkin ravioli and artichoke ravioli with sage and butter, or with a bit of both! Don’t forget to sprinkle with freshly grated parmesan.
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Roast pumpkin filling Ingredients
Globe artichoke filling Ingredients • • • • • • • • • • • •
12 artichokes 4 cloves of garlic A handful of chopped parsley 1 chicken stock cube 1 medium onion, chopped 175ml cream 1 glass of milk 2 tsp corn flour Freshly ground black pepper 50g butter 8 tbsp olive oil 6 tbsp grated parmesan cheese
1.
Boil the artichokes whole in plenty of salted boiling water until very tender. Allow to cool slightly until you can handle the artichokes without burning your fingers. Pull the leaves off one at a time and scrape off the flesh with a sharp knife. When you finally arrive at the heart of the artichoke, remove the ‘choke’ and mash the heart with a fork and add to the scrapings from the leaves. Set aside. (this can be frozen at this stage and used later as required). Heat oil and butter, add chopped garlic and onion and simmer until the onion is transparent. Add the artichoke flesh and chopped parsley, give it a few stirs, then add the corn flour, stir again until absorbed and finally add the milk and stock cube, stirring all the time. Simmer for a few minutes, season with pepper and finally add cream and remove from the heat. Add 6 tablespoons parmesan cheese and set aside.
Method 2. 3. 4.
5. 6.
7. 8.
• • • • • • • • • • •
1½ kilo pumpkin, with skin on 2 tbsp olive oil Rock salt, freshly ground black pepper 50g butter 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 dried chilli, crumbled Handful fresh marjoram ½ nutmeg grated 500g mascarpone 150g parmesan, freshly grated
Method 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Pre-heat oven to 220°C. Remove seeds and fibrous bits from the pumpkin and cut it into large chunks. Put these onto a baking tray brushed with olive oil. Season well with the salt and pepper. Bake for approx 50 minutes, until soft and the edges are tinged with brown. Remove from the oven, and allow to cool, and then scrape all the pumpkin flesh off the skin. Heat the butter in a large frying pan, and fry the chopped onion till golden. Add garlic, chilli and marjoram and toss altogether. Add pumpkin flesh, mashing with a fork, and cook till liquid is reduced. Season well with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Place in a bowl and allow to cool. When cold, mix in the mascarpone and grated parmesan and set aside.
Gbejniet and ricotta filling Ingredients
• ½kg fresh gbejniet (about 10) left to drain their water for an hour or so • ½kg ricotta • 2 eggs • Salt and pepper • 200g grated parmesan • Some fresh parsley, chopped • A little cream to soften (optional)
Method
Mix altogether mashing with a fork. Set aside
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Simple fresh tomato sauce Ingredients • • • • • • •
1kg red ripe tomatoes, skinned and pips removed and chopped or 800g tinned tomatoes 4 tablespoons tomato paste (kunserva) 6 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped 2 tbsp sugar Some basil leaves, torn 4 tbsp good olive oil Rock salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Heat olive oil and add peeled chopped garlic, salt and pepper. Fry until garlic turns golden then add the prepared tomatoes plus the tomato paste. Stir well and allow to thicken over a low heat for about 30 minutes. Add the sugar and the torn basil leaves. Cook a little longer then set aside.
Sage and butter sauce Ingredients • •
200g unsalted butter 1 bunch fresh sage leaves
Method Melt butter in small pan and when sizzling add sage leaves, leave two seconds and remove from heat. Pour over ravioli.
The secret to good ravioli is to make, cook, and serve them in quick succession. If unavoidable time has to elapse between preparing and cooking them, put the trays with the ravioli into your freezer until you are ready to cook them – not for too long though. The pumpkin and artichoke ravioli do not freeze well, the ricotta ones freeze better.
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Lenten sweets
Although Lent is a time of fasting and abstinence, it is a good time for culinary traditions. For example the one sweet we do not abstain from is the kwarezimal (‘quarezima’ being 40 in Latin, referring to the 40 days of Lent). It appears in many confectionery windows, but this recipe, once tried, will convince you that home made is best!
Kwarezimal Ingredients
• • • • • • • • • • • •
250g almonds with brown skins on, unsalted 30g unsalted raw pistachios 250g plain flour 250g demerara sugar Grated rinds of one lemon and one tangerine ½ tsp grated nutmeg ½ tsp mixed spice Juice of one orange 1 tot dark rum 1 tsp orange blossom water (ilma zahar) 1 tbsp cocoa 50 ml water
To garnish •
2 tbsp Maltese honey and 1 tsp orange blossom water (ilma zahar)
3. 4.
5.
6. 7.
Method 1. 2.
Wash and slightly bake almonds with brown skins on (about 15 minutes high oven) chop finely (process ideally). Put into large mixing bowl, and add flour and sugar, grated rinds, spices, cocoa, rum, orange juice and orange blossom water, mix well adding approx 50ml water to bind.
8.
You should now have a firm but moist dough. Carefully divide into 5 equal portions and shape portions into sausage shapes on a marble top or wooden board (you may put a tiny bit of flour to make them less sticky). Slightly flatten each roll to make wide ‘fingers’ measuring 14 cm x 4 cm. Flatten with a fork making indents along the tops, then carefully place these on a non- stick baking tray, and bake in a moderate oven 180OC, for 15 to 20 minutes till they are ‘set’. They will not be hard, but will harden slightly when cold, when the outside will be firm but the inside still fairly soft. Meanwhile, put your 30g pistachios in the oven for 15 minutes, then chop roughly . When the kwarezimal are baked but still warm, put the 2 tsp of honey and 1 tsp orange blossom water into small pot and warm gently for one minute then with a pastry brush, coat the indented surface of each kwarezimal. Finally, sprinkle your chopped pistachios over the tops and allow the kwarezimal to cool slightly. Carefully move onto a cooling rack to get completely cold. Serve in slices.
Zeppoli Also falling in Lent, is 19 March – Feast of St. Joseph. The traditional sweet for this occasion is the St. Joseph ‘puffs’ known as zeppoli. They are profiteroles made with choux pastry, but fried instead of baked.
Makes 12/14
Ingredients
• 200ml water • 75g butter • 125g plain flour (sifted onto a square of greaseproof paper) • Pinch salt • 4 eggs - beaten • 1 tsp grated orange rind • 1 tsp grated lemon rind For the Filling: • 500g ricotta • 50g candied peel or glace cherries • 2 tbsp grated black chocolate • 2 tbsp icing sugar • 100g hazelnuts or almonds – roasted then chopped, half for the filling, and half to top the zeppoli Also to top the puffs: • Maltese honey and a pinch of cinnamon
Also you will need some oil for deep frying
Method
1. Place water and butter in a pan over low heat until
butter is melted. 2. Bring to the boil (this is important) and then add your sifted flour and salt, stir until mixture forms a ball and leaves the side of the pan. Remove from heat immediately and cool slightly. 3. Place mixture into bowl of electric mixer, add the grated rind of an orange and a lemon, and turn on to low speed. Add the beaten eggs a little at a time, beating well after each addition making sure the dough is well mixed. The mixture should be very thick, smooth and glossy. 4. Heat oil in a pan for deep frying. When very hot, add tablespoons of the choux pastry and cook till they are all ‘puffed up’ and begin to ‘split’, and rise to the surface. (Cook about four at a time). Drain well on kitchen paper and when cool split three quarters of the way through. 5. To make the filling, mix the ricotta with the chopped candied peel, or chopped glace cherries, grated chocolate and the 50g(2oz) chopped roasted nuts. 6. Place large spoonfuls of this mixture into each puff and when all done, drizzle some Maltese honey on the tops and sprinkle a little amount of cinnamon and the other half of your roasted chopped nuts. 7. Serve at once. PHOTO BY KURT ARRIGO
Find more recipes in Pippa Mattei’s books ’25 Years in a Maltese Kitchen’ and the award winning book Pippa’s Festa’.
March 2012
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GOURMET TODAY
RESTO REVIEW
Sicilian specials by Don SeraďŹ no
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD
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he winter months keep us from enjoying one of Malta’s greatest assets, the sea, and as winter drags on we look out to sea longingly awaiting the summer months soon to come. While we are waiting for calm, sunny days why not enjoy the passion of the winter seas from a cosy atmosphere of the Dragnoara Casino with waves crashing around you, while dining on some of the most spectacular dishes the sea has to offer. Don Serafino at the Dragonara Casino is an ideal spot to grab some lunch or enjoy a spectacular dinner for two or with a group of friends. Alternatively, if you are looking for the right place to impress clients, Don Serafino will certainly not disappoint. On a windy afternoon, I headed down there for lunch with a friend and while sitting at the bar enjoying an aperitif of gin and tonic, restaurant manager Barolomeo Drago and head chef Claudio Schiavone let me in on how Don Serafino began. Don Serafino originally started out in Sicily in 1953, when Serafino La Rosa and his wife set up a charming restaurant on the sandy beach in Marina di Ragusa, serving traditional Sicilian food and the freshest fish. Their passion for the fantastic food transcended to their sons who, together with their mother, still run the Lido Azzuro and the Michelin starred restaurant Locanda Don Serafino in the heart of Ibla, Ragusa.
GOURMET TODAY
Sesame rolled tuna Giuseppe and Antonio always wanted to expand the name wi th berr y compote of Don Serafino outside the Italian shores and Maltese diners have been lucky enough for them to have chosen Malta as Serves 2 (as a starter) a starting point. Close proximity to the Italian coast and the Maltese love of food were deciding factors and the perfect Ingredients location overlooking the magnificent seas, yet so close to • 200g tuna the busy St Julian’s area clinched the deal, so together with a • 30g sesame seeds team of chefs, they opened Don Serafino at the Dragonara • 20g raspberries Casino in June 2011. • 10g blackberries th The restoration of the 16 century building, that was the • 10g blueberries • 1 tbsp sugar summer residence of the Marquis Scicluna, reflects the • Salt and pepper passion and attention to detail the team have for the food that they serve. Claudio, after having worked at a number Method of restaurants in Sicily including Don Serafino in Ragusa, moved to Malta and after much research of local food mar1. Cut the tuna steak into two rectangular pieces. kets has come up with the perfect combination of ingredients 2. Roll in sesame seeds. sourced locally where possible, with some Sicilian ingredi3. Sear the steaks quickly and cut into ents brought over from our neighbouring island. “While we 1cm thick slices. only serve local fish and meat, you could not get the right flavour and consistency in cannoli using local ricotta, so we For the berry compot e bring that over from Sicily” Caludio said. Similarly, salamis 4. Cook all the berries with and procsiuttos, the Italians are so famous for, also come the sugar for about 3 minutes over low heat and from Sicily. whisk. Armed with this information, the standard was set really 5. Serve the sliced tuna with a side of berry compote. high – Michelin trained chefs and management, the best locally and Sicilian sourced ingredients and a love of food passed on from generation to generation – we were expecting a good meal, and we were most definitely not disappointed. We started with a look at the wine list – a daunting piece of literature with wines coming from all over the world, of course with some emphasis on Sicilian wines. Prices varied between €20 a bottle for something cheap and cheerful, and €380 a bottle for a Gran Cuvée Cristal champagne, with everything in between to make sure there is the perfect bottle of wine whether for a casual meal with friends or for a very special occasion. The sommelier has
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DON SERAFINO
March 2012
DON SERAFINO
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GOURMET TODAY
Cannoli Makes 10 cannoli
Ingredients For the shells 250g 00 Flour • other good 170ml Cerasuolo Vittorio D.O.C.G (or • wine) red ty quali 1 tbsp sugar • 20g lard • For • • • • •
the filling 500g ricotta 100g sugar 10g chocolate ½ tsp cinnamon Crushed pistachio nuts
Method For 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
the shells paste is Mix all the ingredients until a smooth formed. diameter and Roll out into sheets of about 15cm in 2mm thick. for about Wrap round cannoli tubes and deep fry 160°C. at oil able veget in n golde till 45 seconds cinnamon, Beat the ricotta until smooth adding the chocolate and sugar. and dip the Fill the cannoli with the ricotta filling ends in crushed pistachio nuts.
recommendations if you need help and will generally recommend you buy wine by the glass and change the wine with every course so that he can pair the wines perfectly with your meal to accentuate the flavours of the food. The menu centres around fish dishes making the most of Malta’s vast array of premium quality fish and Claudio knows exactly what to do with them, whether they are served in their raw form, marinated, tossed, baked or fried, he will guarantee that the flavours are enhanced with accompanying ingredients. From a lightly smoked seafood salad with minted greens or the
Gragnano pasta with local sea urchins for starters to tuna in sautéed bitter sweet peppers for main. It’s not only fish that is on the menu. Try the beef or chicken or the signature Ragusa sausage served with vegetables if your carnivorous side takes over. For starters we went for an assagio of carpaccio – seared tuna rolled in sesame seeds, carpaccio of amberjack, smoked amberjack and an arancina that beared no resemblance to the horrible rice balls filled with cheap meat that comes to mind when you think of arancini. Instead this was made from the fillet of barracuda stuffed with a delicate tomato and black pepper mix. For in-betweens we went for a pasta dish with a red snapper and cream of broccoli sauce to keep with the fish theme and for mains a tuna fillet served with sautéed bitter peppers that is a firm favourite at Don Serafino. You cannot leave the restaurant without trying the Sicilian cannoli, by far the best I have ever tasted. Perfect pastry that crumbles as you sink your teeth into it and smooth creamy ricotta filling covered with pistachio nuts at both ends. Though they place a fork at the far end of the table the waiter subtly hints that this is not the way to eat cannoli and strongly recommends picking them up with your fingers. While we sip on avernas a tray of petit fours is placed in the centre of the table, and though we are too full to move how can you leave any of it behind? Bite size pieces of cassatella siciliana, ice-cream covered in a crisp milk chocolate, orange rinds half dipped in chocolate and a Ragusa specialty, benger, small profiteroles stuffed with patissiere cream with a bit of an adult kick – simple desserts yet too tempting to leave on the plate. After the meal, we are at the casino so take a walk around the 300 slot machines and other games tables, and though gambling is not really our thing, it makes a great afternoon out after a fantastic meal. The restaurant sometimes includes free casino vouchers so look out for their special offers. The verdict of the afternoon? The meal was superb, fresh fish extrodinaire in the magnificent ambiance of the 16th century residence of the Marquis. If you haven’t been to Don Serafino yet, I thoroughly recommend it and am sure it will turn into a regular favourite. Address: Opening hours: Contact: Web:
Dragonara Casino, Dragnoara Road, St Julian’s. 10:30 to midnight 21377719 or malta@locandadsonerafino.it www.locandadonserfino.it
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GOURMET TODAY
Luscious Langhe The home of Barolo
The Vintage Wine Traveller explores the Langhe food & wine culture and Michele Chiarlo’s most recent venture – an 18th century hamlet turned into a resort showcasing the majestic Barolo. BY JOHN BUGEJA
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arolo has been defined as the King of Wines as well as the Wine of Kings as a result of the majestic characteristics of this splendid Piedmontese red. Barolo began to acquire its aristocratic standing as early as the Middle Ages and its reputation securely grew in succeeding periods. It is reported that Barolo was often found on the table of Louis XIV while other aficionados of the wine included King Charles Albert, the Marquises of Saluzzo and of Monferatto and Maria Cristina of Savoy. Pontiffs were also mesmerized by this wine. At the beginning of the 19th century, Pius VII exclaimed, after having tasted an excellent Barolo “Ah, La Morra! A beautiful sky and good wine’’ and afterwards ensured the wine was always available at his court and he drank it frequently.
The Langhe is also home to the truffle festival held in Alba during October. Each year for about a month and a half Alba is transformed and becomes the world market for truffles. Piazza Bianca hosts up to 40 different stands all trading in this sought after commodity. In the 18th century the Piedmont truffle was regarded as one of the ultimate delicacies throughout the European courts. One of the great connoisseurs of this “fruit of the earth” is the musician Gioacchino Rossini, who defined it as “the Mozart of mushrooms”. Langhe is also famous for its cheese, where they produce three different types. Murazzano is made from fresh, full cream milk, either sheep’s milk or a blend of cow and sheep milk and has a wonderfully fine and delicate flavour. Raschera, produced throughout the province of Cuneo, is a semi-fat cheese, made from un-
cooked milk, and is semi-hard in texture. It’s fine and delicate aroma and taste become quite strong on maturing. Bra cheese, also produced throughout Cuneo, is produced from uncooked milk, pressed cheese. The soft variety is matured for at least 45 days, while the hard variety is matured for six months. The less mature type has a pleasant aroma and is fairly strong and tasty. The Bra duro (hard) variety has a moderately intense and aromatic taste. La Morra, built in the Barolo production area, is 13km away from Alba, and includes the villages of Annunziata, Berri, Rivalta and Santa Maria. Perched on the top of a hill, La Morra is the ideal to spot to take a holiday and re-
March 2012
holiday and relax in the tranquility of Piemonte. From the main square it’s possible to see the baroque church of Saint Martin and the Fraternity of San Rocco, and in a corner, a small triangular garden has taken the place of the ancient cemetery in front of the Town Hall. The Communal Cellar offers passers-by the opportunity to taste and buy wine. A bit further away, in piazza Castello, catch a glimpse of one of the best views over the Langhe. The former Benedictine abbey of San Martino di Mercenasco, in the Annunziata village hosts the Ratti Wine Museum, where the WinePaths and the Mangialonga commence. In the Annunziata village it’s possible to see the former
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GOURMET TODAY
benedictine abbey of San Martino di Mercenasco, where today the Ratti Wine Museum has its seat. From here start the WinePaths and the Mangialonga – a 4km trail across the beautiful Piemonte landscapes, stopping to sample traditional Langhe produce and prestigious wines. La Morra is an ancient town, founded at the end of the XII century by the Commune of Alba. Its citizens were under Alba’s influence until their town became independent. Some say that the name La Morra comes from “murra”, a Benedictine name meaning a “closed place”, surrounded by stone walls, where animals (sheep and goats) were gathered. Some others believe it comes from “mora”, blackberry. There are also some who say that it comes from “mola”, mill, referring to the mills made in Croera village, not far from La Morra. From 1340 on the town was owned by the Falletti, later the Marquis of Barolo, family. The castle was knocked down by the French in 1542, along with the two town doors, called San Martino and Del
Mercato. La Morra had its own laws where the Nebiolium vine, today’s Nebbiolo, is cited as suitable for making an excellent wine. Michele Chiarlo is today one of the highly respected producers of the exceptional wines of Piedmont and a leading dignitary in its viticultural trade. For seven generations, the Chiarlos’ have had vines in the Barolo, Calamandrana and Gavi zones with some 50 hectares belonging to the family themselves while they have access to more than 110 hectares overall. Having seen 51 vintages himself, Michele Chiarlo is grooming his sons to assume responsibility of the thriving company. In the early 1990s, Alberto and Stefano joined the company with Alberto as head of marketing and Stefano in wine-making alongside oenologist Gianni Melini. Last September saw the inauguration of a new project – the Palas Cerequio Barolo Cru Resort. An 18th century hamlet in the heart of Ceriquo, one of Barolo’s most famous crus, was artistically renovated to include nine suites with individual wellness facilities dedicated to a number of historical Barolo crus. In the adjoining annex guests will find over 50 Barolos from producers par excellence, that respresent the best the denomination has to offer. Enthusiasts of majestic wines will be able to enjoy the unique experience of comparing barolos from different crus and producers and, by means of vertical tastings, of discovering the greatness of this wine with the passing of the years. In a special Caveau tasters can also find 6,000 bottles of Michele Chiarlo’s Barolo, ranging from the 1958 to the 2007 vintage. Guests will be able to choose from among 16 restaurants of various categories from Michelinstarred ones to traditional ones and renowned hostelries. Until next time Salute.. If you would like to visit Palas Cerequio and Michele Chiarlo Winery please contact 25692 203/111 or e-mail jbugeja@attardco.com
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An old favourite
GOURMET TODAY
La Favorita
Most of La Favorita’s fish comes from the freshest selection Azzopardi fisheries has to offer and is characterised by their bright gleaming eyes and bright pink gills as well as their succulent flavours. As well as sumptuous whole fish, La Favorita excel in fantastic shellfish dishes including fresh local prawns, langostini, mussels, clams, oysters and anything else that features in the fisherman’s catch for that day. Aside from their fishy menu they also serve quality meat dishes including juicy rib-eye steak, fillets and duck breasts. The desserts are also home-made and still part of the family affair. The Spearings’ daughter, though not working at the restaurant anymore to look after her young children, still has a part to play La Favorita as she prepares all of the desTriq il-Gardiel serts for the restaurant herself. Marsascala Contact: 21634113
Mussels in bianco Serves 2
Ingredients • • • • • • • •
1kg mussels 2 large cloves garlic Glass of white wine Olive oil 2 chopped tomatoes Parsley Breadcrumbs Salt and pepper
Method 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Fry the garlic in a little bit of olive oil. Add the mussels and chopped tomatoes. Add the breadcrumbs. Sautée in white wine for approximately 20 minutes or until the shells open. Garnish with chopped parsley. Serve with fresh crusty Maltese bread to mop up the juices.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD
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alta’s southern coast lends itself to some of the best fish restaurants on the island. In the heart of Marsascala, La Favorita, as its name hints, can easily be turned into an old favourite. As Malta keeps up to date with all the latest culinary trends, with sushi places and restaurants serving exotic cuisine mushrooming everywhere, La Favorita stays true to its origins serving up the freshest fish our blue seas have to offer. For the last 25 years the Spearing family have been in the business of dishing up quality Mediterranean fare. Living just above the restaurant serving lunch and dinner is not just a job to the family but a way of life. Joe runs the restaurant with his wife Phyllis and their son Anton who started working at the restaurant straight out of school. Anton, who works in the kitchen, stressed the importance of choosing the best ingredients when running a fish restaurant. “We only buy enough fish to last one or two days at a time. The restaurant world has become very competitive and the only way to survive is to ensure that every fish we serve comes straight from the sea to your plate. I’d rather risk telling clients we’ve run out of fish than serve something that has been sitting around for a few days.”
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March 2012
WHAT BODY SHAPE ARE YOU?
We have become so accustomed to seeing extreme body transformations on television and in magazines that we expect our bodies to do the same. Estetika offers simpler and safer solutions to body shape dilemmas than having to go under the knife, while at the same time being suitable for everyone’s budget. The team of professionals at Estetika provides a variety of tailormade solutions and focuses its attention on the following problem areas, through the following packages: Mummy Tummy: concentrates on removing abdominal fat, flabbiness and sagging. This package is especially beneficial for mums who want to regain a smooth abdomen after pregnancy. Lumps and bumps: targets localised adiposity, mainly on the inner thighs and pelvic humps, both areas being notorious for their poor response to diet and exercise. Orange Peel Legs: this package is ideal for women who have a normal weight but who suffer from moderate and diffuse cellulite over the thighs and upper knees. The treatments help even out the skin and give it a more youthful look. Lumpy bums: ideal for evening out irregularities which are concentrated on the bottoms, making them appear smoother and firmer. Rescue 360: a package which is tailor-made for persons with a high body mass index, focusing on weight reduction, as well as body shaping. In order to achieve, and maintain, these body-shaping results well after the treatment sessions are completed, Estetika utilises a combination of cutting-edge technologies, as well as personalized fitness programmes: Icoone® is the next generation of body shaping technology - a connective tissue manipulation machine developed by the French skin guru Prof. Jean-Claude Guimberteau, which tones and sculpts the body through personalized treatment programmes for all the problem areas of men and women alike. Non-surgical Liposculpture (Mesotherapy) is the administration of minute doses of specially formulated and naturally occurring medications, which are injected into the skin to remove cellulite. Mesotherapy is excellent for removing fatty deposits in the following areas: love handles, stomach, saddle bags, bra bulge, inner thigh bulges, and outer thighs. Radio frequency Skin Tightening heats the deep
Before RF
Before RF
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skin tissue, tightening collagen fibers, which are responsible for maintaining the skin’s anatomy. It improves skin tone and texture while effectively smoothing, firming and contouring skin. The treatment is suitable for the buttocks, central and lower abdomen, and stretch marks. The Dermosonic Treatment uses Ultrasound, medically proven to provide a deep tissue micro massage, with heat stimulating collagen and elastin production, increaseing lymph drainage, blood flow, and metabolism. Ultrasound is followed by a mechanical massage known as Non Invasive Subdermal Therapy, which aids drainage of the fatty layer of the skin. The minimally invasive Laser LipoSculpture system has all the benefits of conventional liposuction, without the associated risks and side effects. The system
removes fat by using a high powered and carefully calibrated laser to liquefy fat deposits through the top layers of the skin. The laser turns fat cells into an oily solution, which is drained through a small incision in the skin. The laser also seals blood vessels in the process, causing less swelling, bleeding and bruising than traditional liposuction. The Pulse Fitness Studio within the Athenaeum Spa is equipped with the latest state-of-the-art equipment by Technogym and Pulse UK. Pulse fitness programmes, assisted by professional instructors, are essential for prolonging the benefits of Estetika’s bodyshaping programmes. Pulse Fitness Studio memberships are available on a monthly, quarterly, 6 monthly and annual basis and include use of the Athenaeum Spa facilities. Are you interested in knowing more about the Bodyshape Clinic? Visit Estetika this March for a FREE Bodyshape consultation with our experts! Name Gourmet magazine when you book a consultation, and you will be entitled to a FREE Icoone Session!
March 2012
GOURMET TODAY
New improved recipe for Patak’s Mango Chutney Market research conducted by AB World Foods to understand consumer response and preferences has led to a new improved recipe for Patak’s Mango Chutney, making it more competitive in the Indian cuisine market. The new delicious recipe creates a
sweet Mango Chutney which makes it the best in its class in the international and national Indian cuisine market by giving it an optimum flavour balance and an improved natural appearance. Patak’s Mango Chutney can be consumed
in various ways – as a starter or snack with poppadoms or naan breads, also available from Patak’s, in a chicken sandwich or as an accompaniment with an Indian meal. Www.quintanofoods.com
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Seamless entertaining
QUICK COOK
GOURMET TODAY
Simon Azzopardi is one of renowed cook, Rita Diacono’s, many grandsons. Like many in the family he has inherited a love of food and natural skill in the kitchen. For the Diacono family the art of entertaining lies not only in providing sumptuous dishes but being able to do so while still enjoying the company of guests. Simon prepares a delicious three-course meal which, with a bit of preparation the night before, will leave you with ample time to enjoy the compliments of your guests.
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD
March 2012
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GOURMET TODAY
March 2012
Have a good San Pellegrino flight Captain informs you that S.Pellegrino Sapori Ticino is now also flying in the air. The S.Pellegrino Sapori Ticino logo will be visible on Darwin Airlines (Swiss airline based in Lugano) from February until the end of the festival in May on one of their planes. Keep seat belt fastened and have a good flight with SP! Locally distributed by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd., Tel: 2144 4400, Valley Road, B’ Kara
March 2012
GOURMET TODAY
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QUICK COOK
Blue cheese and roasted cherry tomato salad with a herb crust A simple starter that keeps things light, yet sweet. Dolcelatte is a strong flavoured cheese, yet is mellowed by the honey, which I find to be a perfect combination.
Serves 2
Ingredients • • • • • • • •
A few leaves of butter lettuce 200g soft blue cheese (Dolcelatte) Cashew nuts Cherry tomatoes on the vine Honey Good olive oil Sea Salt Fresh pepper
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 190°C. 2. Place the tomatoes on a baking sheet still attached to the vine. 3. Drizzle with olive oil, sea salt and fresh pepper. 4. Roast for 10 to 15 minutes until the skins break and set aside. 5. Plate the lettuce and dolcelatte, garnish with nuts and fresh pepper and drizzle with honey.
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GOURMET TODAY
Pork fillet stuffed with prunes on a potato and pumpkin purée A simple dish that can be made in advance, allowing you to spend the most amount of time with your guests and not panicking in the kitchen.
Ingredients • • • • • • • •
600g pork fillet 300g prunes, pitted 1 large onion, chopped Chilli Half a cup of bread crumbs 2 cups of Port 2 sprigs of rosemary String or kebab sticks
Potato and pumpkin purée Ingredients • • •
3 large potatoes 250g pumpkin A knob of butter
stuffing in the pan keeping the extra stuffing aside. Tie with string or use a kebab stick to thread the pork. I prefer a kebab stick as it is easier to remove after. 9. Add any of the extra stuffing to a roasting dish around the pork. Seal the pork by frying it evenly for 5 minutes. 10. Add a cup of Port and put into a preheated oven at 180°C for about 25 minutes or until cooked through. 11. Leave to rest for 10 minutes.
Method
Potato and pumpkin purée
2.
2.
1.
3.
4.
5. 6. 7. 8.
Soak the pitted prunes in water for an hour or until soft and dice Heat a little olive oil in a pan and add the onion and chilli. Cook until onion has softened. Add the prunes, a sprig of rosemary and a cup of port and cook on low heat for about 10 minutes Add half a cup of breadcrumbs and mix and add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside to cool. Cut the pork fillet length ways down the middle. Do not cut through. Using the bottom of a heavy pan, flatten the pork to increase the surface area. Stuff the fillet with the
1.
3.
4.
Boil the washed potatoes and roughly cut pumpkin until both are softened. Peel potatoes while still hot, wear gloves if needed. Add potatoes and pumpkin to a food processor with a knob of butter and salt and pepper to taste. Blend until smooth.
To serve 1. 2. 3.
4.
Place the purée in the centre of the plate. Cut three slices of rested pork and place around the puree. Using a deep tablespoon, add the juices from the pork baking dish around the plate. Serve with an extra sprig of rosemary on top as garnish.
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March 2012
Basil baked Alaska A delightful combination of hot meringue and cold ice-cream makes this easy dessert appear to be a lot harder to make than it actually is. Like the main course it can be made in advance and just popped into the freezer so you can spend more time in the company of your guests than slaving in the kitchen.
Serves 2
Ingredients
• • • • • •
Plain sponge 2 cups vanilla ice-cream Fresh basil 3 tbsp caster sugar 3 egg whites Red currants or any other berry for garnish
For the meringue: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
In a deep ramequin, insert a layer of sponge, compressed with your fingertips. This will provide insulation to the ice cream. Mix ice-cream with finely chopped basil in a bowl and insert into ramequin. Place in freezer. Whisk the egg whites until the mixture stands up in stiff peaks. Slowly add the sugar, folding into the egg white and whisk until the mixture in thick and glossy. Add the meringue to the ramequin forming tips with a teaspoon. Be as creative as you wish though ensure that all the ice-cream is covered. This also serves as insulation. Put back in freezer until ready to serve. This can be made the night before and kept in the freezer until required. When ready to serve, put in a preheated oven at maximum heat for 3 to 5 minutes or until the meringue is light brown. Serve on a small plate with berries on the side and chopped basil as a garnish. Dust with icing sugar and serve immediately, while the meringue is hot and the ice-cream in the centre is still frozen.
The Brut Premier Trifecta: 90 points x3 90 WINES SPECTATOR: “A delicate champagne, with spring blossom, smoke, yellow apple and anise flavors set on a fine-grained texture. The finish is fresh and juicy, with the smoky note lingering”….. – A.N. , 4.13.11
90 ROBERT PARKER’S WINE ADVOCATE:“The NY Brut Premier is a soft, creamy wine that captures the essence of the house style in its refined mousse, precise aromas and flavors and compelling overall balance….. Year and year, this is one of Champagne’s most reliability outstanding entry-level wines.” – A.G. 12.23.10
90 WINE & SPIRITS: “The firm, toasty richness of reserve wines lends depth and structure to this nonvintage brut. The lemon-curd fruitiness is round, edged by mineral and wood tones. For aperitifs.” – 12.1.10
A LA RECHERCHE DE L’OEUVRE (IN PURSUIT OF THE ULTIMATE) Champagne Lois Roderer owns over 500 acres located exclusively in the Grand Cru and Premier Cru regions of Champagne. The Brut Premier blend is 2/3 Pinots (10 – 15% of which are Pinot Meunier) & 1/3 Chardonnay and is composed of harvests from four different years, including 3 different years from the Lois Roederer reserve wines Cellar.
Locally distributed by Charles Grech & Co. Ltd., Tel: 2144 4400, Valley Road, B’ Kara
March 2012
GOURMET TODAY
Bridging the gap and caipirinhas, try some of the more daring mixes including a bubble gum flavoured cocktail or an apple pie inspired martini. After dinner be sure to drop back in to The Bridge and take a peek at the selection of Scotch whiskies and single malts, best enjoyed with one of the cigars on offer at the bar, while listening to live music performed every weekend. After enjoying the outdoors in the afternoon, The Bridge is the perfect place to stop for afternoon tea. Freshly brewed tea and coffee is served with smoked salmon
Bubble Gum
sandwiches, cucumber sandwiches and scones with jam and clotted cream, a delicious treat after a long walk or simply a comforting afternoon on a wild and stormy day, where you can watch the violent seas from a cosy atmosphere, in the deep leather sofas around the piano. On a bright sunny day sit out on the terrace and enjoy the stunning sea views and enjoy the warmth of the sunshine, and when the sun goes down, the outdoor heaters and candlelight will encourage you to make the most of the Mediterranean climate and stay outdoors. The Bridge is open daily from 10am till late.
3.5cl Vodka 2cl Bubble Gum Syrup Topped up with Cranberry Juice Method: Shaken
Creamy Apple Pie Martini 2.5cl vodka 1.5cl apple syrup 1cl caramel sauce 2cl fresh cream Method: Shaken
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAY ATTARD
After a long day at work what better way to relax and unwind than over a cocktail at The Bridge at the Radisson Blu Resort, St Julian’s. Enjoy a bottle of wine, from the extensive wine list, with friends with a selection of nibbles, ranging from platters and sandwiches to a more substantial burger or chicken fillet if you’re feeling hungry. Dining at the hotel? The Bridge is the ideal spot for an apéritif before dinner. Enjoy the sleek cocktails lovingly made by passionate bar staff. Aside from the traditional favourites, daiquiris, mojitos
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Still paying full price when dining out? Week in week out, thousands of people around Malta and Gozo are dining out at a select number of restaurants, enjoying a better lifestyle while saving loads of money. They then talk about their positive experience with friends and colleagues indirectly encouraging them to visit those restaurants. This is the recipe of success behind Gusto - the most advantageous restaurant discount scheme in Malta by far. Following the hugely successful first edition last year, Gusto’s second edition has been launched a few weeks ago and it’s almost sold out already! The reason is simple... the scheme is hugely beneficial for both members and participating restaurants alike. In Malta we have hundreds of restaurants some of
What our members said
which are real gastronomic gems. However diners usually stick to a few favourite ones and for various reasons, tend to overlook others. Gusto encourages its members to experience a wider range of restaurants by offering them incredible 50% discounts at more than 120 partner restaurants. This way, Gusto makes dining out much more affordable for members while promoting partner restaurants in the most effective way possible. Gusto works in a very simple way. Once you become a member you’ll receive a personalised handy pocket-size restaurant guide and card. All you have to do is browse the restaurant list on www.gusto.com.mt, choose a restaurant and enjoy your meal. Before asking for the bill, just give your booklet to the waiting staff so they validate it and your food bill will be discounted accordingly. Gusto members are eligible to a 50% discount whenever
March 2012
MEMBERSHIP CARD they visit a partner restaurant the first time and further discounts when they visit the same restaurant again. Discounts apply to the holder and a guest and can be taken at as many partner restaurants as one wants. If you take the offer below, a membership will cost you only €56 and it will be valid for 12 months from date of purchase! That’s a whole year of dining at half the price... for the price of one or two dine-outs! The amount you can save depends on how often you dine out. Last year, Gusto members have saved an average of €900 each. Gusto issues a limited number of memberships per edition. At the time of going to print, there were less than 800 memberships left. If you’re a real diner, join now before memberships sell out and start enjoying the exclusive member benefits that only Gusto gives you!
Join Gusto in 4 easy steps: 1 Visit www.gusto.com.mt/joinus.php 2 Fill in the online form 3 Type gourmet as your promo code
to get the discounted price 4 Pay by Paypal, credit card or by cheque
Email info@gusto.com.mt or call 79402040 if you need assistance. www.facebook.com/gustomalta
March 2012
GOURMET TODAY
Maltese powerhouse Oranges
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Baked oran ges with da tes and yoghur t Serves 4
Ingredients
• • • • • • • • • • •
4 large oranges Zest of one of th e oranges 8 dates choppe d 30g butter 2 tsp sugar ¼ tsp cinnamon 2 tots Gran Mar nier, brandy or any other booze Flaked almonds (optional) 2 tubs Greek yo ghurt Some chopped mint leaves 2 teaspoons ho ney
Method
T
he orange tree probably originated in Southeast Asia and spread through China and India to east Africa and then to the Mediterranean and is now the most commonly grown fruit tree in the world. However, until the advent of refrigerated transport and storage oranges were expensive and not easily available in cooler countries. The Maltese word for orange, laring, derives from the Arabic Persian na¯rang. The cultivation of oranges in Malta dates back to Arabic settlement between 870 and 1090. And it is thanks to the Arab’s ingenuity with the irrigation system of farming that citrus trees were able to grow so successfully in Malta. The Malta blood-orange is our most famous orange although why it is so called is not clear. Since this variety, also known as Maltese half-blood, is mainly grown in Tunisia but might have originated here. Wherever their origin they are simply delicious with an unusual berry
like flavour and a deep red pulp. The Seville oranges, which are the bitter-sweet variety, were also very common in Malta especially before the introduction of the sweet variety by the Portuguese Knights of St. John. This variety is best for marmalade making. Oranges are now available all the year round, but the citrus in Malta comes into season in winter and is found in abundance. We should make the most of this fruit, which not only tastes delicious, and is relatively cheap but also is packed with natural goodness. We all know that oranges are good for us providing an impressive list of essential nutrients, vitamins and minerals. Like other citrus fruits they have been valued for their wholesome nutritious and antioxidant properties. Oranges are an excellent source of Vitamin C, with just one orange supplying the daily recommended intake of the powerful, natural antioxidant. Consumption of foods rich in Vitamin C helps body develop resistance against infectious agents and scavenge harmful, pro-inflam-
matory free radicals from the blood. Oranges are also a good source of potassium, fibre, several antioxidants and even calcium according to research by the Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization. Eating one orange a day can reduce the risk of mouth, larynx and stomach cancers by up to 50 percent. Oranges can safely be stored on the countertop for 2 - 3 days, but keep longer in the refrigerator for up to 14 days. Select an orange that is heavy for its size and shows no signs of bruising. In Medieval times, oranges and orange blossoms were used on a couple’s wedding day. It was believed that the scent of oranges was calming to the couple on their wedding night. They were also thought to be a symbol of fertility.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GABY HOLLAND
BY GABY HOLLAND
1. Preheat ov en to 200°C. 2. Before peeli ng the oranges take the zest of and put aside. one orange 3. Peel the or anges with a sh arp knife, remov and cut into sli e all the pith ces horizontally 4. Butter an ov about 2.5cm th ick. enproof dish an d place slices sli overlapping. ghtly 5. Squeeze ou t any juice from the discarded pe 6. Scatter chop el. ped dates and sprinkle with su cinnamon and gar and butter shavings . 7. Bake for ar ound 15 minut es then grill for of minutes until another couple dates start to ca 8. Serve hot wi ramalise. th yoghurt on th e side and sprin almonds and a kle with drizzle of hone y. Stir mint leave s, and orange rin d into the yogh extra honey may urt. Some be added for m ore sweetness
March 2012
GOURMET TODAY
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Casato Prime Donne...a Main Icon of Montalcino
M
ontalcino is a hill town and commune in Tuscany, Italy. It is notorious for its Brunello di Montalcino wine. Montalcino is not just wine, it is also very affluent in artistic treasures. The historical center is dominated by the mighty and imposing Rocca or fortress built in 1361 to mark the chapter of Montalcino under the domination of Siena. The views from its fortifications are incomparable, stretching towards Monte Amiata, across the Crete to Siena, and across all of the Valdorcia and the hills of Maremma. The town is located to the west of Pienza, close to the Crete Senesi in Val d’Orcia. The hill upon which Montalcino sits has been settled probably since Etruscan times. Its first indication in historical documents in 814 AD suggests there was a church here in the 9th century, most probably built by monks who were associated with the nearby Abbey of Sant’Antimo. The population expanded suddenly in the middle of the tenth century when people fleeing the nearby town of Roselle took up residence in the town. The town takes its name from a variety of oak trees that once covered the terrain. The very high site of the town offers dazzling views over the Asso, Ombrone and Arbia valleys of Tuscany, dotted with silvery olive orchards, vineyards, fields and villages. The lower slopes of the Montalcino hill itself are dominated by extremely productive vines and olive orchards.
The town has scarcely changed in appearance since the 16th century. Once you reach the town, a magnificent spectacle unfolds, rolling sunny hills’ dotted with yellow and red flowers, ancient oak trees, picturesque olive groves, scenic country roads winding through perfect vineyards and isolated cypress trees atop hills. Born in 1953 into a family of producers of Brunello di Montalcino, Donatella graduated in History of Medieval Art. In 1993 she founded the “Wine tourism movement” and invented Wine Day, the event that in a very brief time brought success to Italian wine tourism. Donatella Cinelli Colombini’s husband Carlo was born in Siena in 1951 and graduated in Economics in his hometown’s university with top grades. In 2010 he concluded his banking career in Florence in the Banca Nazionale Del Lavoro where he was in charge of training the personnel for the branches of Tuscany, Umbria, Marche and Abruzzo. He has an immense enthusiasm for wines and is especially well-informed on South African wines. He adores cooking and has created a few of the recipes of the restaurant Osteria di Donatella at Fattoria del Colle together with the chefs In 1984 Violante took a degree in Economics at the University of Florence. After her OIV degree which took her around the world visiting the most legendary wine regions, she is now working in marketing with her mother Donatella Cinelli Colombini’s wines. Other than travelling abroad and taking part in wine fairs, Violante leads the Toscana Lovers shop that sells handicraft objects in the centre of Siena. Violante is member of the Leo Club Valli Senesi and is Vice President of the Strada del Vino Orcia. In 1592 Donatella Cinelli Colombini’s ancestors already owned Casato. They would come here to go
hunting and it was here that they brought their wives on their honeymoon. In recent times Casato belonged to Donatella’s grandmother, who passed it on to Donatella’s mother; Donatella in turn will pass it on to her daughter Violante. Since 1998 this large stone building has a new name Casato Prime Donne and it is the first winery in Italy with all female staff. Casato Prime Donne is situated 325 metres above sea level and is surrounded by 16 hectares of vineyard. On the ground floor of the stone farmhouse is the ageing winery with oak, tonneaux and larger barrels. This is where the Brunello ages, at first in smaller and then ever-larger containers until reaching the 40hl barrels. The vinification area is separated into two parts. The traditional portion is under a wooden beamed roof, while the more technological and avantgarde area is housed under an iron roof and is open on four sides. It is called “Tinaia del Vento” and has been created so as to make nature the central character of quality products. Here the fresh air of the Val d’Orcia is used as a fundamental factor for the quality of the forthcoming wines. The truncated-cone stainless-steel vats are temperature-controlled and with a plunger, here the pumping overs occur automatically without the use of a pump. The affinity with the surrounding countryside is emphasized by the use of selected native yeasts chosen at Casato Prime Donne during the 2007 harvest by the Oliver Ogar laboratories and modern techniques for fermentation which however recall those practiced by their grandfathers. On your next trip to Tuscany do keep in mind that Montalcino and Casato Prime Donne have a lot to offer to all wine fanatics and history buffs alike. For any further details please contact us on Tel:- 25692 203/111 or by e-mail on jbugeja@attardco.com
March 2012
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GOURMET TODAY
Baba ghanoush Ingredients • • • • • •
2 eggplants 1 tbsp Tahini Juice of 1 lemon 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tsp parsley, chopped 2 tsp fresh mint, chopped ½ tsp cumin 2 tbsp Borges extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper to taste
• • •
4.
5. 6.
7.
Garnish • • •
1 tsp parsley ¼ tsp cumin Drizzle of Ferran Adria Soy & Ginger olive oil
Method 1. 2. 3.
Preheat oven to 200°C. Prick the eggplants in several places with a fork. Place them in the oven and bake until skins
9.
blacken for 10 -15 mins. Wrap them separately in foil and place on a baking sheet, and bake for another 30 mins. Unwrap the eggplants and let stand until cool enough to handle. Halve them lengthwise and carefully remove the flesh, discarding the seeds and the skin. Coarsely chop the eggplant flesh and place a8. Add the Tahini, lemon juice, garlic, 1 tsp cumin, 2 tsp parsley, 2 tbsp Borges extra virgin olive oil, mint and salt and pepper and mix well. Place the mixture in a serving bowl, drizzle Ferran Adria Soy & Ginger olive oil over the top, and sprinkle with the remaining teaspoon of parsley and the cumin.
BORGES OLIVE OILS FERRAN ADRIA CHEF
BORGES SPECIAL PREMUIM VINEGARS
Trade enquires - Practical Trading Co. Ltd. Contact: 2144 9184 Web: www.practicaltrading.com.mt Email: sales@practicaltrading.com.mt
BORGES OILVE OIL RANGE
EVENTS
Grill 3301 re-launch An event was held at the Grill 3301, Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay, St Julian’s on 24 January 2012. The event was held to re-launch this lovely venue that has stunning views over the picturesque St George’s Bay and invited customers to use the Grill 3301 as a flexible solution appropriate for a variety of events. Bernardette and John Rausi
Tonio Farrugia and Cecilia Pellegrini-Petit
Karl Schranz, Estelle Borg and Stuart Chappell
Bernard Jaccarini, Lisa D’Ugo and Rosabelle Xuereb
Greta Cassar and Gloriana Arpa Belli
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March 2012
GOURMET TODAY - EVENTS
EVENTS
The Definitive(ly) Good Guide restaurant awards
Justin Zammit Tabona – MD of Xara Palace Hotel, Dr Mario de Marco, Adrian Bonello – Executive sous chef, Kevin Bonello Executive Chef, Paul Steel from HSBC sponsor of the Guide, Alfred Cuschieri of Continental Purchasing and Paul Attard F & B manager of Xara Palace Hotel.
Le Luci di Marsascala – newcomer to the Guide and Restaurant Award winner
Pulito’s newcomer to the Guide and Restaurant Award winner
Sciacca newcomer to the Guide and Restaurant Award winner
The Boathouse – newcomer to the Guide and Restaurant Award winner
Patricks’ Tmun – Patrick Buttigieg - winner of A Restaurant Award plate, the People’s Choice wine list, the best Presentation & Accessibility wine list and the Overall wine list receiving awards from Jeremy Cassar of Marsovin Ltd sponsor of the Wine Awards.
Gourmet Today recipe index Starters Beetroot and chevre salad .................. 5 Jerusalem artichoke soup..................11 Spicy tomato and lentil soup............14 Spaghetti with Maltese sausage.......21 Blue cheese and honey salad............49 Baba ghanoush .....................................59 Mains Artichoke risotto ................................... 7 Pasta with Jerusalem artichokes .....11 Thai green curry paste .......................15 Thai green chicken curry ..................15 Traditional brajoli................................22 Pasta dough ...........................................28 Gbejna ravioli filling ...........................29 Pumpkin ravioli filling........................29
Artichoke ravioli filling ......................29 Fresh tomato sauce .............................31 Butter and sage sauce .........................31 Sesame rolled tuna ..............................37 Mussels in bianco ................................43 Prune stuffed pork fillet.....................50
Potato and pumpkin puree...............50 Desserts Apple and pear crumble ..................... 9 Doughnut sticks...................................16 Tris of Maltese desserts .....................24
Kwarezimal............................................33 Cannoli ..................................................38 Basil baked Alaska...............................53 Baked oranges with yoghurt ............55
The over arching principle in fine dining For our Raspberry Creme Brulee we crown it using only the best ingredients on the Island
Awards we have won them all - our biggest accolade is your return
George Borg Olivier Street | Mellieha MLH 1021 | T: 2152 3460 | F: 2152 0930 | info@thearchesmalta.com www.thearchesmalta.com