CASUAL EATS

By Alyssa Denger

Ithaca is lled to the brim with restaurants. From quiet dinner spots to lively tap rooms, this area now has more restaurants per capita than New York City. In order to stand out in this food-centric crowd, you have to o er something memorable, and that is exactly what Lev Kitchen does.

As one of the newest additions to the commons, Lev Kitchen makes a statement with its eclectic style and unique avors. Upon entering you’ll pass spacious outdoor seating and make your way towards the bustling kitchen. Being able to watch the food being prepared cultivates a warmth and connectedness that makes Lev Kitchen special. e restaurant opened earlier this year with hopes to go against the status quo of the food industry. Prioritizing sustainable practices, food security and overall transparency has allowed Lev Kitchen to create a more ethical business model. Knowing where your food comes from, how it is prepared and who it is prepared by is a privilege in the current environment that fast-food corporations have created. e name “Lev Kitchen” comes from the area known as the Levant. is region includes Syria, Lebanon, Israel and Iraq. A majority of the Ithaca community would not be able to identify the culinary aspects of this area, but Lev Kitchen provides many opportunities to introduce these exceptional avors. Its trademark use of malawach is utilized in almost every dish, and it is the backbone of all of their wrap variations. But, before we get to the main event, we must give credit to the opening act: the Kennebec French Fries. Topped with creamy aioli, tangy goat cheese and spicy peppers, these fries are far from basic. e vibrant tray o ers a fun start to any meal as a sharable and unexpected appetizer. e menu also o ers a variety of fresh salads. e toasted freekeh salad features hearty grains coated in a sweet silan date syrup and topped with mushrooms and greens. e chewy freekeh o ers a unique textural depth, while the greens give a fresh bite against the sweet silan syrup. e roasted beet salad refreshes the palette with mint and cucumber. Covered

Lev’s open kitchen cultivates warmth and connectedness. (Photo: Provided) in calamansi dressing, this citrusy salad leaves you feeling light and eager for the next course. Now back to the true star of the show: malawach. is Yemini bread is utilized in almost every dish on Lev Kitchen’s Menu. According to their website, malawach is “a crispy, aky atbread” that serves as a “carrier of avor”. e shashuka malawach was packed with greens, a creamy so boiled egg and a rich and spicy shakshuka spread. Pair all of that with tangy feta and you have a perfectly balanced bite. If you are someone who craves the sweeter things in life you will de nitely be a fan of the haloumi malawach. Haloumi is a type of cheese made from a combination of cow, goat and sheep milk. It has a mild avor and can be prepared in a variety of ways. Complemented by seasonal jam, almonds and greens, this wrap combines smooth and savory cheese with tart and sweet fruit, making an addictive and tasty combination. Lastly, the za'atar chicken malawach brought velvety hummus and sharp scallions together for a delicious collaboration. e chicken was juicy and each piece was seasoned perfectly. Overall this was a satisfying meal that introduced a plethora of new avors. Lev Kitchen is a fantastic new addition to the commons, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it becomes an Ithaca staple. As a new business, there is a lot of room to grow, and I cannot wait to see what new and exciting developments come. Lev Kitchen, 222 E State Street, has hours listed online as 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday, and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m ursday, Friday, and Saturday.

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brought in to help develop an inclusive recruiting strategy for law enforcement, Joly explained, adding that the IPD is working with the City’s Human Resources team and the Civil Service Board to see what revisions could be made to hiring procedures and policies that might eliminate potential obstacles for applicants. Finally, he noted that the department has held more than 20 community outreach events which have been very well received.

Joly also reported on what appears to be a Catch-22 when it comes to recruiting. He noted that one of the elements that in the past made the Ithaca Police Department an attractive alternative to other law enforcement agencies in the area, was the extensive training it o ered to o cers, giving them opportunities to build their own career ladders. While stressing that he believes the IPD still provides the best training, he said that sta ng shortages have forced training reductions. ose training reductions, in turn, may make it harder to recruit, leading to a problematic cycle.

Tompkins County District Attorney Matthew Van Houten also met with the special committee to provide some input on the reimagining process moving forward. He stated his belief that "the overall goal of this process was to address the systemic inequities in our criminal justice system," and to "increase the con dence that the community has in our justice system, especially the marginalized parts of our community."

While noting that "we would love to decrease the number of arrests and increase the number of de-escalations," and that arrests are "the last resort," Van Houten said not all arrests are bad. "When there's somebody in the community who was victimized by crime, whether it's physical violence or violation of their home or their business or sexual offense or being affected by shots fired in your neighborhood," Van Houten continued, "those things have consequences to the rest of the community. And in those cases, when the safety of the community is at risk, the right thing to do is to arrest someone. And the right thing to do is to do it fairly, to do it competently, to do it professionally with as little violence as possible, with as little disruption to the community as possible. But we have to recognize that arrests are part of the world, and they always will be."

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In some Asian cooking, including Indian and Chinese, the bones of animals are crudely chopped with a cleaver and included with the meat. Consequently, some lamb and goat dishes, this one included, are served with all sizes of sharp-edged bones. e menu does state, in small print, there are skin and bones in the dish, however I feel compelled to emphasize it.

All that being said, I nished all the tasty, thick sauce with the soup spoon that was provided. I enjoyed the dish and would recommend it to adults who like lamb.

Another entrée I enjoyed was Sauteed Udon Noodles, ($12.95) which came with small bits of pork, four medium shrimp, and some vegetables. e balance of the menu is “Chinese Cuisine”. In that Section, under Chef’s Specialties, I had a wonderful Seafood Delight ($19.95). e platter came with a few succulent shrimp, some tender, juicy scallops, a small half lobster tail, and some crab meat. All of these were surrounded by a hearty collection of veggies including carrot slices, broccoli, mushrooms, baby corn and pea pods. e carrots and broccoli were barely cooked, which could be a problem for some readers. But since these veggies are o en served raw as part of a crudité mixture, I had no problem.

Also in the Chef’s Specialties section of the menu I ordered, and liked, Crispy Duck ($16.95). It was boneless so consequently I received about ten thick slices of beautifully seasoned duck with crunchy skin. is dish, too, came with lots of veggies—basically the same as came with the seafood dish—plus some chopped scallions and some thinly sliced mild onions. Everything was surrounded by a tasty brown sauce.

It should be noted that neither of these dishes had any red pepper icons next to their listing and neither was the slightest bit spicy. Both were accompanied by a bowl of white rice.

Tid Bits: If you want a knife or chop sticks, you’ll have to ask. ere are two entrances, one directly o Meadow Street and one around the back parking lot that services other retail establishments.

Spicy Asian, 335 Elmira Road, is open Tuesday through ursday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from 12 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Take out is available by calling (607) 277-7017 or online at https://www.spicyasianfood.com/menu

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