DINING

Ithaca’s Member Supported Independent Movie Theater

P PO CORN CORN

120 East Green Street (near Home Dairy Alley)

BRIAN KEELER “Apple Harvest- MacDaniels Park, Ithaca, NY” oil, 26 x 30”

Paintings by Brian Keeler 743 Snyder Hill Rd Ithaca, NY

Open Daily 12-5 by Appointment www.northstarartgallery.com Call 607-323-7684

info@northstarartgallery.com

By Henry Stark

For years I just drove past Spicy Asian restaurant on Meadow Street because I was put o by the name. I don’t go out of my way for spicy food and I assumed “Asian” meant pan-Asian to include Korean, Japanese, Chinese, and ai. Since there are other alternatives in Ithaca that aren’t necessarily spicy, I was never tempted to eat at Spicy Asian. So, when my editor included it on a list of assignments, I wasn’t thrilled. But now that I’ve been there several times, I really like it and am sorry to have let so much time go by.

First of all, it’s not pan-Asian: It’s exclusively and, according to those I trust, authentically Chinese. Second, there’s a myriad of choices that aren’t spicy and the extensive, illustrated, eight-page menu clearly identi es the spicy choices with one to four red pepper icons.

Spicy Asian has a minimalist interior with covered lamps hanging from the ceiling and it was a welcome relief to nd a restaurant that operates without any pipedin music. ere are leatherette booths around the perimeter and tables and chairs in the center. Fortuitously, the large picture windows overlook trees and bushes which block out the Meadow Street tra c.

About one half of the menu is devoted to “Szechuan Style” o erings.

Szechuan refers to the largest province in China: It’s twice the size of Great Britain and has a population of over 80 million.

Spicy Asian offers exclusively Chinese fare that, despite its name, is not exclusively spicy. (Photo: Josh Baldo) Szechuan fare leans heavily to sh and beef dishes, (they raise a lot of oxen) and can be very spicy, however they need not be. e strong avors come, primarily, from the use of red chili peppers and garlic. I selected an appetizer, Scallion Pancakes Rolled with Beef, ($10.75). I received four deep fried, aky, rolled pancakes, two of which went home with me as it was a generous portion. e rolls are designed to be eaten in by hand since otherwise they come apart, however being deep fried, they’re slightly greasy. Still, it’s a very tasty dish. Moving on to the entrées, I eschewed the red pepper icon items and selected Braised Lamb in Hot Pot ($17.95). My server presented me with a handled, very hot, personal, cast-iron pot with chunks of tender lamb and small scallion slices immersed in a tasty brown sauce. Continued on Page 19

Temple Beth-El provides a welcoming hometo Jews of diverse backgrounds and ages. Weembrace our tradition through a contemporarylens and a timeless heart. Join us for a free “Welcome BackPicnic” on Aug 28 or weekly Shabbat worship. Contact our office (secretary@tbeithaca.org) for moredetails.

402 N. Tioga St, Ithaca (corner E. Court & N. Tioga Streets) www.tbeithaca.org • (607)273-5775