Shiwa Ngandu

In the spring of 1914, a young British army officer gazed in awe upon one of the most beautiful sights he had ever seen—a magnificent lake, inhabited by crocodiles and surrounded by field and forest where wildlife roamed wild and free. The Bemba name for the lake was Ishiba Ng’andu – The Lake of the Royal Crocodile. He decided there and then to return to build his dream home in this remote area of what was then Northern Rhodesia, a British protectorate. And he did. His name was Stewart Gore-Browne and he called his mansion Shiwa Ng’andu.

Gore-Browne returned to Northern Rhodesia in 1920 after World War 1 and construction work began, funded largely by his aunt, Ethel Locke King, to whom he was devoted, and her husband Hugh. We learn of Gore-Browne’s plans and hopes through his frequent letters to Ethel, his muse and mainstay. However, he was not to remain alone. He brought to Shiwa a young wife, Lorna, whom he had married in England in 1927, the daughter of the real love of his life, Lorna Bosworth Smith. Lorna the Second gave him two daughters, Lorna and Angela. Lorna married John Harvey and they had four children, one of whom, Charlie, together with his wife Jo, now own and run Shiwa. Sadly, the marriage between Charlie’s grandfather and Lorna did not last and they eventually

By: Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson Photos: Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson

parted company in 1945, Lorna returning to England and leaving the recently knighted Sir Stewart alone to plough a lonely furrow until his death in 1967.

I had known about Shiwa Ng’andu for many years and had even driven past the turnoff way back in 1997. Now I was back and accompanied by my guide, Zambian artist Quentin Allen. Lusaka, have rescued the property with a great deal of hard work. They moved all their belongings and animals—lock stock, and barrel—to Shiwa in the early 2000s to take up the huge challenge of restoring the house and land to its former glory. They now take paying guests, and I was one of them. Staying at Shiwa is a wonderful experience and Charlie and Jo have breathed new life into the property. Charlie farms 1,600 head of cattle and showed me round in his pick-up truck, patiently answering all my questions and pointing out some of the resident game.

Shiwa has a stable of well-bred horses and both Jo and Charlie took me riding, clad in borrowed equestrian gear. Jo and I rode up to Sir Stewart’s grave, inscribed with his African nickname Chipembele, meaning “rhinoceros” as he was known for his short, explosive temper. Throughout Shiwa you find rhinos – there is a big sculpture of one in the

garden. After my ride with Charlie, we sipped sundowners at sunset by the tranquil lake.

The big house can be chilly and draughty, but a fire burned brightly in my bedroom each evening. Renovations are still in progress, but the dining room is in full working order, and we enjoyed delicious home-grown and farm-raised fare. Alternative accommodation is offered on the estate at Kapishya Hot Springs, run by Charlie’s brother Mark and his wife Mel, and if you prefer to self-cater there are facilities at Impandala.

Jo is in the process of archiving Shiwa’s irreplaceable treasures, which include Sir Stewart’s books, diaries and fascinating photograph albums. I could have spent hours in his library, intrigued by his detailed records. A book is planned: Sir Stewart’s own eloquent words will tell Shiwa’s true story. Today, Shiwa stands as proud testament to an ideal. Firm yet fair,

stern yet sensitive, Sir Stewart was a highly respected visionary, whose fight for equality among races came to fruition with independence in 1964 when his great friend Kenneth Kaunda was installed as the first president of the beautiful country we now know as Zambia.

Previous page: Shiwa Ngandu, Sir Stewart Gore-Browne’s African dream home, now restored to its former grandeur by his grandson Charlie Harvey and his wife Jo.

Below left: The impressive library at Shiwa Ngandu contains Sir Stewart’s extensive collection of books and his fascinating diaries and photograph albums.

Below right top: Sir Stewart’s grave. His nickname, Chipembele, means ‘rhinoceros’ in the local language.

Below right bottom: The magnificent setting of Ishiba Ng’andu, the ‘Lake of the Royal Crocodile’, was the inspiration behind the building of the manor house, Shiwa Ngandu, and the establishment of an estate run with military precision by Sir Stewart GoreBrowne.

Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson is a UK-based travel writer who has lived and worked in Canada, Africa, Hong Kong and Australia, contributing to publications both overseas and in the UK. An experienced and adventurous traveller, she has been interviewed on the radio in Cape Town and London about her travels.

Project Luangwa is a charitable organisation formed by a group of Safari Operators of South Luangwa as a part of their commitment to responsible tourism. Their aim is to create an effective, coordinated approach to helping local communities improve their long term economic prospects whilst avoiding a negative impact on the environment and wildlife. Members: Shenton Safaris, Robin Pope Safaris, Flatdogs, Kafunta, Croc Farm

The Project Luangwa Craft Workshop is situated in the main Mfuwe Area, near the South Luangwa National Park.

Women are given full time employment and taught craft and sewing skills; making bags, gifts and the Ufulu range of washable menstruation pads.

Products from the project’s workshop, local craftsmen and small creative businesses are on sale to the tourists visiting the South Luangwa.

Survival of the Fittest and The Chase is on!

This picture illustrates one male Puku chasing another Puku for the right to mate. Two Impala rams are clashing horns at the same time, for the same reason.

Boys will be boys!

Every year the Safari Awards are held in London. Industry experts and safari-goers vote for the best camps and lodges in various categories. This year Flatdogs Camp won “Best Value Safari Property in Africa 2017.”

This is fantastic news for Flatdogs Camp and Zambia. Zambia is a destination still relatively unheard of internationally, so this award will help draw attention to the country as a whole.

The award is recognition that we provide affordable safaris with great guiding and high quality accommodation and meals for all.

We, at Norman Carr Safaris, are proud to receive this important award as we continue to follow in the footsteps of our founder Norman Carr, who pioneered community-based tourism in Zambia. We strive to educate our guests about the social and ecological realities of their surroundings, and to demonstrate the far-reaching benefits that tourism brings to remote people and places.

Through our sponsorship programme, conservation education, academic and social support for adolescent girls, and assistance to families with disabled children, we hope to make meaningful and relevant impacts in the entire South Luangwa ecosystem.

Sausage Tree Camp is proud to have recently been awarded Bronze for Most Romantic Safari Property in Africa at the 2017 Good Safari Guide Awards. Renowned for our luxurious Honeymoon Suites (which are worth marrying for) and our attention to detail, we strive to make each guest’s stay as memorable and extraordinary as possible.

Celebrating a honeymoon, anniversary, birthday or special occasion we love being able to surprise guests by ensuring that what is often a once in a lifetime holiday is one they will never forget. www.sausagetreecamp.com / reservations@sausagetreecamp.com