Face to Face with Gentle Giants

The large elephant bull gracefully winds his trunk around the branch of an acacia tree. He gives it a gentle caress before breaking it off with a quick snap and popping the leaves into his mouth. Chewing lazily, he is completely oblivious to the onlookers taking pictures from the main area of Mfuwe Lodge, just 10m away. “It’s George,” whispers Ian Salisbury, Mfuwe Lodge General Manager, as everyone watches in awe.

Elephants have been visiting Mfuwe Lodge’s grounds for years. Situated inside of the South Luangwa National Park, the lodge, overlooking small lagoons, offers incredible views of wildlife of all kinds. Since it re-opened in 1998, animals such as leopards, lions, antelopes and hippos have been walking and grazing on the premises, and the lodge has become part of their home.

But what makes Mfuwe Lodge even more unique are the families of elephants known to pass through the reception area looking for succulent wild mango fruits (Cordial Africana). People from around the world come to the lodge to witness this incredible event between late October and early December. In 2010, Jayish Tailor, a repeat guest, was making his way towards the bar area when he realised the elephants had just arrived.

“They were very quiet and before I knew it they were already on the step,” he recalls. “Everybody was behind the counter and I was stuck on the other side so I just stayed there! They were so calm. It feels very special that they choose to come here.” from the United Kingdom, have visited Mfuwe Lodge five times over the last few years and were thrilled to see the pachyderms in November 2011. “We hoped to see the elephants and we did,” Sheila remembers. “They wandered through reception and looked as though they wanted to book in!” Derek says. “We took up a safe place to watch them go through the reception and out to ‘their tree’,” Sheila adds. “Seeing such huge animals in a small space made usrealise how lucky we were to see them close up.”

Phil Berry and his partner, Babette, who manage the Kuyenda Bushcamp (also located in the South Luangwa National Park) recall

that the matriarch of the group, known as “Wonky Tusk,” was the first elephant to wander through the reception. About twelve years ago, she began bringing her family with her on the journey as well.

“She was so peaceful,” they say. “She would go about her business being her normal self, and she always had others around her, including little ones.”

In 2009, Wonky Tusk gave birth to a baby boy who was nicknamed Wellington (after the rubber rain boots). The baby, born on Halloween, first visited the lodge when he was only two days old.

“Wonky came in the car park with a small baby boy, but he was too small to go up the steps,” Ian relates. “A few days later they came back and Wellington came through the reception and fell asleep there, with the adult females standing beside him.”

In 2012 Wonky Tusk disappeared, but her eldest daughter took over the role of leading the family and the elephants continued to amble through the lodge premises. Far from shy, they have even visited the gift shop and the Bush Spa! An unrelated lone bull, nicknamed George, is another regular visitor. He has also been known to walk through the reception on many occasions.

“Elephants feel safe around humans here, because they know they won’t be harmed,” Ian says. “I am also convinced that Wonky enjoyed the attention! The elephants usually behave extremely well while checking in at the lodge, except maybe that one Christmas when one young bull started eating the decorations made from dried fruits on the Christmas tree!”

The elephants have also caught the attention of media outlets. Wonky and Wellington are featured in two children’s books “Wonky Tusk” and “Wellington Gets the Boot.” The two were also filmed over a period of four years for the documentary Elephants in the Room.

Even though these animals don’t appear to fear humans, they should not be considered tame. Respecting these gentle giants by giving them space to roam and graze naturally is key to keeping the relationship between humans and elephants in balance. It also means that visitors are likely to enjoy the visits of Wonky Tusk’s descendants for years to come.

Language: English is the official language. Time Zone: GMT+2 International dialling code: +260 Visas: Visas are needed for most visitors to Zambia. They are available from Zambian embassies abroad or at Kenneth Kaunda International airport and other points of entry. Health: Malaria occurs in many parts of the country, especially in the low-lying areas where the game parks are often situated so malaria prophylactics are recommended. Yellow fever certificates are required if you are travelling from an infected area. Medical insurance, including medevac, is recommended. Safety: Zambia is known for friendliness and great hospitality but like anywhere in the world, especially where there is high unemployment, it is wise to remain vigilant at all times. Be aware of pick-pockets and thieves in the towns and cities. Do not leave your belongings unattended and when in public, and carry only the minimum amount of cash that you need. Always lock a vehicle and do not leave items visible in a parked vehicle. Money: The unit of currency is the Zambian Kwacha (ZMW). Foreign currency (US dollars are best) can be changed into kwacha at banks and there are foreign exchange bureaus in most towns. Visa, and to a lesser extent MasterCard, are accepted by many tourist hotels and can also be used to draw local currency at ATMs in the major towns. Getting there: Emirates (www.emirates.com), Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com), Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com), and South African Airways (www.flysaa.com) fly to Lusaka, linking Europe and USA via Dubai, Nairobi, Addis Ababa or Johannesburg/Cape Town. Getting around: Once in Lusaka, internal flights can connect you to most major destinations in Zambia (www. flyzambia.com). Local buses are cheap and frequent. There are also luxury coach services. Weather: Zambian weather is essentially divided between two seasons: the dry season from May to October, and the rainy season from November to April. May to August marks Zambia’s winter when it is warm and pleasant during the day and very cool at night. During this time it can be cold on game viewing vehicles in the early morning, especially on the plateau. September to November is a period of hot and dry weather- in the valleys, temperatures can reach up to 40 degrees Celsius. Around November or December, Zambia experiences intermittent showers and storms that usher in the rainy season, keeping the climate warm and humid through April.

Bushtracks Africa is a leading Destination Management Company perfectly positioned at the rapidly expanding gateway of Livingstone, Zambia. With offices in Zimbabwe & Botswana as well we ensure first class service in every destination. Contact us today for your next experience.

P.O Box 60719, Livingstone, Zambia reservations@bushtracksafrica.com +260 213 323232 www.bushtracksafrica.com