ISSUE 10 - JAN - APRIL 2018 by Lyn G

TRAVEL & LEISURE

ZAMBIA & ZIMBABWE JAN - APRIL 2018 | EDITION 10

THE SECRET SEASON The Most Beautiful Season in South Luangwa

THE NYIKA PLATEAU Wild & Wonderful in

THE KAFUE The Revival of

THE CHAMABONDA VLEI

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TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA / JAN - APRIL 2018

CONTENTS Features

Five Reasons Why... 06 By Mahina Perrot

South Luangwa & The Lower Zambezi By Johan Steenhuisen

Capture: Summertime in South Luangwa 08 By Kirsten Gottenkieny

Know Your African Wildlife: Elephants 28 By Edward Selfe

What Would A Safari Be Without Hippos? 10 By Bruce Ellender

The Nyika Plateau By Robin Pope

The Luwi Pride By Thandiwe Mweetwa

The Emerald Season By Johan W. Elzenga

Wild & Wonderful: The Kafue By Sarah Kingdom

A Touch of Nature While on Safari By Nathalie Zanoli

Meet The Kindas 34 By Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson The Revival of the Chamabonda Vlei By Sarah Kerr

In Support of Camping By Leslie Nevison

Advertisers Index 01

Ndole Bay Lodge

Edward Selfe Photography

Kafunta Safaris

Project Finance Zambia

Shenton Safaris

The Personal Touch

Track & Trail River Camp

Mama Tembo Tours Zambia

Kaingu Safari Lodge

I.B.C.

WTM Africa 2018

20 & 21

Mukambi Safaris

B.C.

Zambian Ground Handlers

Kafunta River Lodge

Kafunta SAFARIS

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Three Rivers Camp

Island Bush Camp

The best South Luangwa has to offer

South Luangwa, Zambia bookings@luangwa.com www.luangwa.com

A word from the MD ZAMBIA TRAVEL & LEISURE Publisher Safari Magazine

Editor & Managing Director Andrew Muswala andrew@zambiatravelmag.com Sub-Editor Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson nicky.dj@sky.com Layout and Art Director Gemma Beardsall gemmakb@hotmail.co.uk Consultant Jo Pope popejo@gmail.com

Subscriptions ads@zambiatravelmag.com +260 977 308 711 / 0967 173 796

WELCOME

I have been very fortunate to travel extensively to most of Zambia’s tourist destinations during the last two years and I am pleased to report that the 2017 safari season was fantastic, with very good wildlife sightings throughout the duration. However, there is no reason not to enjoy Zambia when the rains reduce the flow of incoming tourists to a trickle between December and April. Everywhere, animals are dropping their young, the bush is alive with birdsong, and thunderstorms have replaced the colourless dust and smoky haze of the dry season with bright colours. This is Zambia’s Emerald Season (p 32). During this season you could have the two most popular national parks to yourself – Kafue National Park and South Luangwa National Park. The exceptional clarity of the air and lightning from the stunning storms provide great photographic opportunities (p 8). Tourist facilities have been transformed in our national parks and the once basic lodges replaced by more luxurious options. Jessica Tyler explores a luxury camp with a great reputation for good food in A Restaurant in the Bush (p 5).

Zambia has some of the best safari guides in the world. Your guide’s knowledge, experience, safety ethic and enthusiasm will undoubtedly make the difference between a safari-of-a-lifetime experience and a potentially disastrous safari plagued by problems and frustrations. We profile Jacob Shawa, one of the world’s top eight safari guides (p 24). In Wild and Wonderful (p 14) travel writer Sarah Kingdom explores Kafue National Park from north to south.

How much do you know about Kinda baboons? (p 34). Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson spoke to Anna Weyher from the Kasanka Baboon Project based in Kasanka National Park in central Zambia. We also interviewed the American ambassador to Zambia (p 25).

And the Nyika Plateau – Zambia’s hidden gem – (p 30), five good reasons to go for a bush honeymoon (p 06), and the Luwi lion pride (p 12) are some more stories to look out for in this edition. We would love to hear your reactions to Travel & Leisure Zambia magazine so do please email me on andrew@zambiatravelmag.com HAPPY READING

A note from us... We would like to apologise to our sub-editor, Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson, for any textual, presentational and printing errors which occurred in the October-December 2017 issue of the magazine. We will endeavour to ensure that similar errors do not happen again. Also, Nicky is not responsible for editing the advertisements which appear in the magazine.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Contributors Jessica Tyler, Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp, Sarah Kerr, Leslie Nevison, Mahina Perrot, Matt Clark, Dana Allen, the Bushcamp Company, Sarah Kingdom, Edward Selfe, Bruce Ellender, Thandiwe Mweetwa, Egil Droge, Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson, Frank Willems, Robin Pope, Nathalie Zanoli, the Bush-Spa, Kirsten Gottenkieny, Peter Geraerdts, Johan Steenhuisen, Gesa Neitzel, Frank Steenhuisen, Johan W. Elzenga, Personal Touch, Namib Sky Balloon Safaris.

Submissions We welcome editorial and photographic submissions to the magazine. Accompanying images should be sent in high-res jpg and minimum 3MB in size. Please send a synopsis of the proposed article to andrew@zambiatravelmag.com for consideration. Printers New Horizon Printing Press Plot # LUS/9815/H Kafue Road, Lusaka, Zambia

Copyright Copyright © All right for material appearing in this magazine belongs to Travel and Leisure Zambia and / or the individual contributors. No part of this magazine may be reproduced either without the written consent of the publishers or with due acknowledgment.

On the cover

Leopard in the Emerald Season Photo credit: Peter Geraerdts from Track and Trail River Camp

A Restuarant By: Jessica Tyler Photos: Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp

ailed as one of Africa’s finest wildlife areas, the Lower Zambezi National Park is home to a diverse range of animals, stretches of unspoiled wilderness and an allencompassing luxury camp with food so good that some visit simply for lunch with a view. Nestled amongst the ana trees, Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp humbly boasts a mesmerizing experience with exclusive luxury tents, fishing, boating and a range of safaris. With a fully stocked bar that hosts an impressive selection of South African wines and a menu that is carefully crafted each season, guests enjoy their meals on a gorgeous raised wooden deck on the banks of the Zambezi River, with impeccable service where all are ‘most welcome’.

The day could start as early as the morning game drive with a warming bowl of oatmeal and a continental spread of freshly baked croissants, seasonal fruits and a selection of cereals, including Anabezi’ s home-made granola. The cooked breakfast menu ranges from the classic makulu (‘big’) and beechana (‘small’) breakfasts to a breakfast burrito and French toast stuffed with bacon and maple syrup or Nutella and banana. A few short hours and possibly an activity later, watch the wandering elephants while choosing from a daily family-style lunch of fresh salads, possibly the tastiest vegetarian lasagne this side of the Zambezi, and juicy roasted chicken pieces with all the accompanying sauces. After a few g & ts and a spread that quietly demands a second helping, even the animals deem it a good idea to retreat in the afternoon heat, cleverly allowing space for afternoon tea. Tea is truly an afternoon treat and it is advised not to resist a slice of the daily cake – be it the light creamy carrot cake or the coffee and walnut cake.

Dinner is a three-course plated event with a seven-day menu, plus a dietary menu which includes a tasty grilled vegetable and tabbouleh salad. With the irresistibly fresh dinner rolls, start with a caprese stack or the creamy chicken liver pâté. A combination of the traditional tastes of nshima (ground maize corn) served with nyama (meat stew) is offered as a standard entrée item, and on different days the beef fillet is prepared in deliciously different ways – a particular favourite being herb crusted with roasted vegetables and jus. Creamy salmon or vegetable parcels are flawlessly served in filo pastry, and light salad and pasta options please all palates. Vegetarians are wonderfully spoilt with a root vegetable masala and coconut curry. To finish, diners can delight in the Anabezi cheesecake or the decadent dark chocolate torte, roast a marshmallow at the murmuring fire pit and embrace hippo calls in the African bush.

in the Bush

S REASON GO ON A LD U O H S OU R Y U O Y Y H W R O F I R A SAF

n o o m y

e n Ho

etting married is the beginning of the greatest adventure of every couple’s life. What better way for newlyweds to have the honeymoon of their dreams than to enjoy an exciting and romantic safari! Zambia, with its incredible density of wildlife, picturesque landscapes and luxurious, remote camps, makes for a unique honeymoon destination for thrill-seeking couples looking for an unforgettable experience and lifelong memories.

t llen ina Perro By: Mah tt Clark, Dana A a M s: to Pho

enses f the s o e c n a ic d Romant to the

What

2. 6

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

set n u s g n i stunn

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A once-in-a-lifetime experience A safari is a rare and special vacation. Stepping out of your comfort zone, driving, walking and sleeping in your tented camp or chalet, lost in the middle of the bush will bring you closer than you could possibly imagine. Getting up close to a pride of lions may well bring out your new life companion’s natural instinct to protect you! The freedom you feel when fully immersed in the wilderness is incomparable. A picturesque excursion such as a walking safari also offers one of the world’s most exciting thrills for active newlyweds. Last but not least, the breathtaking scenery and animals make for fantastic photos.

A caref ree hon eym

on One of the bes t t h in g s fo r yo u about g rh o in g o n b e t a ke o n ey m o o n is t s a fa r i n c a re o h a t e ve r f fo r yo can cus u . S a fa r y t h in g w il l to m iz e i compa yo u r t r ip s p e c if ic n ie s to b e s t w s u it yo u p a c ka g e is h e s a n d o fte r n h ave s t h a t in h o n ey m c s u r p r is oon e s . P r iv lu d e a m a z in g a te ro m s e t t in g s in t h e b t h re e - c o u r s e d a n t ic u s h , b re in part of the a k fa s t in n e r a n d p r iv c a m p by t h e a s e c lu d fi r ed a te ly- g u id e d a c e a s t h e s u n r is c o m p le t iv it ie s te exc lu e s, w s iv it y – much tr n o t h in g il l e n s u re o u b le . w il l b e to o

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Africa is home to a Zambia is no exc n incredible ab undance eption a experien nd o of a ce o f a n im s in the heart o ffers wonderfu nimals. f the Afr a ls yo u l safari ica w il fo o t , o r r igh t o n l s e e o n d ay a n bush. T h e va r n d n igh yo u r d o b re a t h t d r ive s ie t y away. T , on he coun o r s te p w il l li te species try boas ra lly t a and has k ts more he parks. T than 75 e yo u r he Luan althy lion popu 0 bird lations in gwa Vall concentr ey h all ati giraffe, th on of hippopo as the world’s la its major tamus, th rgest e elusive e the ‘Vall ey of the African wild do endemic Thorn icroft’s g, and is Leopard roaming a s’. Also, K cheetah lso known as be mesm afue National P s can ar erized b y this pr k. Any newlywe be found exquisit istine pie d e part o f the wo ce of pa couple will memorie rld and radise in s that w w ill most ill rema certainly an in forev er. enjoy

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Photographic Tips

CAPTURE

SUMMERTIME IN SOUTH LUANGWA

he green version of South Luangwa National Park, from November through to April when the rain falls, is no doubt the most spectacular time of the year. With October dust out of the way and crystal-clear air that is perfect for photography, how to capture summer’s lively nature at its best?

As a wildlife photographer, I often shoot at a faster shutter speed to ‘freeze’ a split-second scene or to fuse together an extended period of time. By: Kirsten Gottenkieny Photos: Peter Geraerdts

Puku: 1/1250 sec., f6.3, ISO 200 A faster shutter speed also helps when shooting from a safari vehicle – after all not the most stable location from which to shoot. In general I suggest shutter speeds ranging from 1/100 sec. for a static animal, 1/640 sec. for a slow-moving animal like a walking lion, 1/1000 sec. for a fast moving animal, 1/1250 sec. for a flying bird and 1/1600 sec. for small birds like bee-eaters. In any case, always try to use a beanbag for support. For hand-held shooting you might need a slightly higher shutter speed and you can achieve this by reducing your lens opening (larger f-stop) or increasing your ISO. To capture movement you can also pan the camera with the moving subject. Sometimes the blur of panning gives a better sense of the action than a ‘frozen’ picture.

Wild dog: 1/13 sec., f/3.2, IS0 100

In order for your subject to really pop out from the picture use a wider lens opening (smaller f-stop) like I have done with this picture of the hamerkop. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Photographic Tips Hamerkop: 1/400 sec., f/4.0, ISO 400 The background lets the hamerkop stand out in this image and the bright green indicates summertime, creating an interesting contrast to the subject. In general a lens opening of f/5.6 or f/7.1 will work for your subject to be sharply in focus while also allowing some recognizable details in your foreground and background. On the other hand, when photographing summer landscapes, I usually select a smaller lens opening (larger f-stop), allowing for the whole picture to be sharp to give the viewer an impression of the animals’ homeland. Start around f/8 and work up to f/13 or higher to achieve the correct result.

Elephants: 1/60 sec., f13, ISO 2000 When it comes to capturing the action and taking pictures, take a lot! Action can be difficult to capture and best to set your camera settings on the highest continuous setting and keep shooting. However, don’t let capturing the moment stop you from living it. South Luangwa is a magical place at this time of the year, so experience it to the full.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

WHAT WOULD A SAFARI BE WITHOUT

HIPPOS?

By: Bruce Ellender Photos: Bruce Ellender

t is hard to believe that less than 100 years ago sightings of hippo in the Luangwa Valley were the exception rather than the norm. In the mid 1800s, Luangwa Valley hippo populations were heavily exploited by trade expeditions in search of meat, slaves and ivory. The relentless pressure on the hippo was continued into the early 1900s by professional hunters. By the 1930s there were so few hippo left that hunters thought it quite an event to hear a hippo let alone see one. Outbreaks of sleeping sickness, from 1912-1925 and again from 1927 onwards, however, deterred hunting and gave the hippos some respite. Fortunately, good sense prevailed in 1939 and a ban on hunting and total protection of hippos was enforced above the Luangwa River Bridge. The formation of North and South Luangwa National Parks has been instrumental in facilitating their revival. In the Nsefu sector, for example, hippo census data nicely illustrate their amazing recovery. In 1964 there were approximately 16 individuals per kilometre of river, increasing to 42 per kilometre of river by 2008 and 70 per kilometre of river in 2010. Hippos also play a major role in the ecology of the Luangwa River system, and

because of their partially amphibious nature, nutrient cycling between terrestrial and aquatic habitats is particularly important. Hippos convert vegetation biomass from grazing into a form that can fertilize the river and so support other aquatic forms of life such as fish, frogs and insects. Due to their grazing habits, they create and maintain areas of short grass known as hippo grazing lawns. Many of the smaller antelope species prefer these shorter grasses and rely on this to satisfy their preferred grazing. The habitual use of hippo pathways to grazing areas initiates conduits for the movement of frogs and fish between lagoons during the rainy season, while wallowing in lagoons creates and maintains areas that hold water well into the dry season that attract a variety of game.

We often take it for granted that the Luangwa River supports one of the highest densities of hippo in Africa. A celebration of the recovery of this iconic species is in order. We hope that the North and South Luangwa National Parks will continue to secure this flourishing hippo population so that future generations can enjoy their aquatic antics and incredible plethora of grunts, groans and snorts, ubiquitous sounds to anyone on a Luangwa Valley safari.

Edward Selfe Two of South Luangwa’s most popular lions, Ginger and Garlic, were born into the Luwi Pride in 2008 and 2010 respectively

The Luwi Pride

The Luwi pride, in South Luangwa National Park, is currently made up of eight lions – three adult females, one sub-adult female and four sub-adult males. By: Thandiwe Mweetwa Photos: Edward Selfe, Egil Droge, Thandiwe Mweetwa

Egil Droge Funny Ear when a young lioness

ake Manyara National Park in Tanzania is famous for its tree-climbing lions. In South Luangwa National Park’s main game viewing area, if you are to encounter a pride up in a tree, most of the time it will be the Luwi Pride. Also known as the Kakuli Pride, it is the natal pride of Ginger and Garlic, South Luangwa’s most famous lions. The pride is currently made up of eight lions – three adult females, one sub-adult female and four sub-adult males. The southern end of the Luwi Pride’s territory is the Chipembele 2 stream, while in the north they range as far as the Chamboo stream crossing. Inland towards the west, they travel along the Luwi River up to the White Sand area, while their eastern boundary is the area around Zikomo Camp. Up to mid-2016, the Luwi Pride was attended by the Nsolo Coalition of three males. Since the Nsolo males moved north to the Lion Plain/Mwamba area, the pride has been regularly seen with the Hollywood Coalition male, who can be identified by his cut nose and missing tail tuft.

The Luwi Pride has been one of the Zambian Carnivore Programme’s (ZCP, www.zambiacarnivores.org) study lion prides since 2009. There are two collared lionesses in the pride that

Thandiwe Mweetwa A Luwi Pride lioness up in a tree with her young cub

make it possible for the ZCP research team reliably to track the pride and collect key scientific data. Despite spending most of their time inside the protected area, the pride has not been spared from the impacts of wire snaring due to the illegal bushmeat trade; there have been two lionesses in the pride snared to date. One of the snared lions is a lioness nicknamed ‘Funny Ear’ who is easily recognizable because of her deformed right ear. Funny Ear was two years old when she was rescued in 2010 because of a wire snare around her neck. The wire had started to cut through skin and muscle and would have killed her if she had not been spotted by a tour guide out on safari with his guests. ZCP, together with the Department of National Parks and Wildlife and Conservation South Luangwa, rescued her and she made a quick recovery. Now aged nine, Funny Ear is a lioness in her prime who has raised her first litter of cubs. Her successful rescue story highlights the importance of collaboration in protecting Zambia’s lion population. The ZCP team continues to monitor the Luwi Pride as they now transition from one coalition to another. Under the protection of the Nsolo Coalition of three males, the pride successfully raised all of the five cubs they had in 2015. They are now ready to produce the next generation of Luwi Pride lions and the task falls to Funny Ear and Garlic’s sister 369F. This is because lioness 155F is approaching the end of her reproductive years and 812F is too young to be a successful mother at the age of two and a half. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

& WILD R

eclining in my bathtub luxuriously located just metres above the Kafue River, on the verandah of our room at Mukambi Safari Lodge, I looked up to see a vivid green grass snake silently sliding up the trunk of the jackalberry tree overhanging the deck. I watched, entranced, until it disappeared out of sight, then sat up and moved to the other end of the bath to watch a grey-hooded kingfisher, perched on a twig swaying in the breeze, half a metre above the water below our room. The bird watched the water attentively, clearly on a fishing trip.

Suddenly, my husband, seated at the other end of the verandah said, ‘It’s back.’ For a minute I didn’t know what he was talking about. Then he was a bit more specific… ‘The snake is back.’ Knowing both his fear of snakes and his penchant for practical jokes, initially I didn’t believe him. But then out of the corner of my eye I saw the emerald-green body slithering along the side of the tub. I was transfixed, with both fear and fascination, and for the next ten minutes I watched intently from the tub. First it lapped, like a dog, at a puddle of water on the floor, left behind by my earlier ‘removal’ of an errant bug in my tub. Then it finally contorted itself around the legs of the bath and plumbing before smoothly and stealthily sliding up the railings of the verandah and out of sight. Every time I thought the coast was clear and I could extricate myself from the bath, the snake’s head would reappear from some vantage point and glare thirstily at me. Finally I managed to make a ‘clean’ getaway, and leaving the water in the bath, retreated to the room, hoping it would take full advantage of my absence to drink its fill and vanish.

The Kafue National Park, Zambia’s oldest and largest national park and one of the continent’s wildest, is named after the river, the lifeblood of the park, which bisects it almost north to south. The Kafue is the largest tributary of the mighty Zambezi. It is a big river, unhurried and up to 400 metres wide in places, elsewhere interspersed with islands, granite boulders and fast- flowing rapids. The river eventually feeds the beautiful yet relatively undeveloped, man-made, Lake Itezhi-Tezhi. The Kafue is home to fish, otters and hippos, full of sand banks where spur-wing geese saunter, colonies of African skimmers swoop and crocodiles sunbathe. There is something about safari life that really brings living down to basics. To put it bluntly, we woke up to find poo in our bathtub. The trees above our verandah were teeming with baboons, who were clearly the ‘poopetrators’. The baboons were busy doing the things that baboons do… eating, squabbling, playing, chasing one another and, apparently, defecating! Whilst this ‘deposit’ was, I’m sure quite unintentional, and fortunately the bath was vacant at the time, it did somewhat set the theme for the rest of our morning. Deciding against a bath, we showered and crossed the river to head off on an early morning game walk in the park and it was here that our encounters with poo continued. On the previous evening’s game drive we had admired the ingenious metal box mounted on the back of our safari vehicle. This was specifically designed for burning dried-up balls of elephant dung as we drove along, the not unpleasant-smelling smoke acting as a deterrent to the aggressive and ever-present tsetse flies. This morning our guide, Felison, seemed set to give us a ‘hands on’ lesson in the numerous and various poos that

A COMPLETE SAFARI EXP

By: Sarah Kingdom Photos: Mukambi Safari Lodge, Namib Sky Balloon Safaris, KaingU Safari Lodge, Konkamoya Lodge

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Wonderful

we would encounter… and believe me we encountered a lot! We saw hippo poo, puku poo and impala poo poo. We learnt to tell the difference between warthog poo and zebra poo (which to the uninitiated are surprisingly similar). We saw a midden of civet poo and pile of aardvark poo that resembled a little bunch of cocktail sausages. We passed deposits of hyena poo, bleached white and full of ground-up bones. We learnt about the germination of seeds passing through the digestive tracts of elephants and emerging in, you guessed it, their poo. And speaking of digestive tracts, we also found lion poo that was comprised almost entirely of the undigested fur of his/her last victim. Don’t get me wrong, poo was not the only thing we saw on our walk, but there was certainly a lot of ‘toilet talk’ to keep us entertained. Because the forests of Kafue are poor in nutrients they don’t support the huge herds of game that can be found elsewhere in Africa, but what the park may lack in animal density it more than makes up for in diversity. An astonishing array of species lives among its varied habitats; Kafue has a seemingly endless list of animals. There are at least 161 species of mammals, 22 of which are antelope. Kafue actually boasts the highest antelope assortment of any African park, with everything from the tiny blue duiker to the massive eland, and reedbuck, sable, hartebeest, puku, defassa waterbuck and many more in between, plus thousands of red lechwe as far as the eye can see, often in the company of herds of roan and buffalo. There are six cat species in the park: lion, leopard, cheetah, caracal, serval and African wildcat. Elephant, buffalo, zebra, hippo, hyena, wild dog and warthog can also be added to the mammal list. Lions are truly a highlight of any safari, and as we arrived at

Fig Tree Bush Camp (opened by Mukambi Safaris in 2015) we were informed that eight lions had passed through the camp the previous evening. Fresh lion prints on the sandy path to our room showed us just how close they had been. A short distance from the camp we found five lions feasting on a warthog kill; four disappeared quickly with the bulk of the carcass, leaving one female cleverly camouflaged some distance away. We actually would not have seen her if not for the faint sound of her crunching on the head of the dismembered warthog. This sighting was just a taste of what was to come. Later that afternoon we would have a wonderful encounter with two females and four cubs. We sat and watched while they relaxed, played and groomed one another. While we watched, our guide, Richard, told us a story of a three-legged lioness that had been seen in this part of the park regularly for the last year. He didn’t know how she had been injured, though most likely in a poacher’s snare, but he said it was remarkable to note that she was often seen with a male, possibly her brother, who would share his food with her, quite uncharacteristic behaviour for lions. It seemed that she also had developed the technique of ambushing the entrance to warthog dens, catching her unsuspecting victims as they emerged. To our surprise, just as Richard finished talking, the lionesses stood up and started walking away, revealing that one of them was missing a foot… she was the very lioness we had just been hearing about. The cubs she had been grooming were most likely not her own, and yet despite her lack of a limb, she had not only survived, but was clearly an integral part of that lion ‘family’. Back at camp that night, having started our day with lion footprints, we went to sleep with the sound of lions roaring not far away. Lions were by no means our only carnivore encounter in Kafue,

PERIENCE IN THE KAFUE

Visiting the Busanga hippos. Namib Sky Balloon Safaris

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Aerial view over the vast Busanga Plains. Mukambi Safari Lodge

though we did see and hear them regularly, including an impressive pride of 11 that surrounded our car when we were staying further south at Lake Itezhi-Tezhi. Driving north through the park, on our five-hour journey to Busanga Plains and just after crossing an extremely rickety bridge, a beautiful leopard crossed our path. Passing just metres in front of the car, she quickly crossed the road and climbed a termite mound close by, where she copiously and lengthily marked her territory, before disappearing out of sight. We would see other leopards on our journey through the park, one lying on the river bank near KaingU Safari Lodge and yet another on a night drive at Konkamoya in the south, but that first sighting was special as we had ‘found’ her all by ourselves. Hyenas, caracals and genets were to become regulars on our night drives; indeed we were serenaded at dinner one night by hyenas at Busanga Bush Camp on the Busanga Plains. Lack of signposts, my diabolical sense of direction and a total misinterpretation of the previous evening’s directions had us take the rather ‘scenic route’ north to the Busanga Plains. In fact we unintentionally reached the eastern gate and exited the park completely, having to travel through the GMA (game management area) for about an hour before finally re-entering the park, crossing a couple of hair-raising ‘bridges’, comprised solely of a handful of poles, and arriving somewhat shaken at Busanga Bush Camp, the oasis that was our next temporary home.

A sky full of stars... camping beside the Kafue River. KaingU Safari Lodge

The Busanga Plains, in the far north west of the park, is probably the best known area of the Kafue. The wide open spaces, veined by rivers, seasonally floods, generating a vast expanse of lush grazing,

irresistible to the array of wildlife found here. The Busanga Plains is certainly a highlight of Kafue for both its diversity and quantity of game. Huge herds of red lechwe and puku are to be found here, as well as buffalo, zebra, blue wildebeest and many other antelope.

Five in the morning and the alarm goes off. Never one to leap willingly out of bed at that time of day without a very strong coffee close at hand, my husband is surprisingly up and dressed in record time. We are off to float above the Busanga Plains in a hot air balloon as the sun rises. What better way to see this vast expanse than from above? Moving with the wind we drift across the plains, sometimes coming down low enough to ‘trim the lawn’, at other times passing close enough to wild fig trees that we could have reached out and plucked some fruit. Soaring above the ground like an eagle, we watched red lechwe splashing through water before leaping over channels to reach dry land. A family of Egyptian geese, silhouetted by the reflection of the rising sun, lined up with almost military precision on the banks of the water. Piloted by the professional and passionate Eric, our wicker basket hanging beneath a vast expanse of silk balloon, we drifted for an hour above the plains, eventually coming to land metres from a male lion, which, disliking the attention, rapidly disappeared into a thicket of vegetation. Champagne and smoked salmon bagels for breakfast, followed by a leisurely game drive, rounded off a magical morning. We were not the only creatures soaring above the Busanga Plains. Kafue is home to approximately 500 species of birds. Birdlife is prolific, with Kafue having the most extensive ‘bird list’ of any of Zambia’s parks. Special sightings for us at Busanga included the

iconic grey crowned cranes, and wattled cranes (the Busanga Plains being one of the few known breeding sites for this endangered bird), as well as the Fülleborn’s and rosy-throated (also known as rosy-breasted) longclaws. Whilst travelling further south in the park we would find the African finfoot, Pel’s fishing owl, our favourite rock pratincoles, pelicans (great white and pink-backed), saddle-billed storks, numerous species of egret and large gatherings of open-billed storks spiralling upwards in the late afternoons.

Back in the centre of the park, we left our car on the riverbank and travelled the last stretch to KaingU Safari Lodge by boat. Here the river is not the wide, unhurried, quiet waters we had encountered further north. Instead, it cascades over and around boulders and islands, the sound filling our room at night and lulling us to sleep. A canoeing expedition was the perfect activity on this stretch of river and we spent a beautiful morning paddling downstream in light but warm rain, avoiding pods of hippos, spotting birds and enjoying an entirely different perspective of both the river and the park.

Zebra on the shores of Lake Itezhi-Tezhi. Konkamoya Lodge

From KaingU we headed down the Spinal Road (a gravel road running roughly along the river inside the park), through miombo woodland interspersed with huge granite hills, towards Lake Itezhi-Tezhi. This vast expanse of water (370 square kilometres) has not always been here; the dam was built in the 1970s for hydroelectricity. In the morning, from my open-sided shower at Konkamoya Lodge, I watched herds of puku grazing between the tent and the lake. As I dried off and dressed, zebras

came to join them.

Pelicans soaring overhead, we rounded a corner on our morning game drive. ‘Dogs,’ whispered Arron our spotter. David our guide came to a halt. Little by little we crept forward in the open-topped vehicle, getting closer and closer to the wild dogs. The morning was a little chilly and the dogs were snuggled up together, seeming pretty indifferent to our presence. We watched, silently, for half an hour, marvelling at how relaxed they were. Eventually leaving the dogs in peace, we dragged ourselves away. Quite literally around the bend we found ourselves in the midst of a group of 11 lions, crossing the road in front of and behind our vehicle. When they melted away into the undergrowth we moved on; we wanted to be on time for ‘lunch’ at the elephant orphanage. Game Rangers International, with funding help from the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation, in 2007 set up the Kafue Release Facility, Camp Phoenix, in Kafue National Park to rescue, rehabilitate and ultimately release back into the wild, orphaned elephants. Orphaned as a result of poaching, human elephant conflict or abandonment, youngsters, if they are fortunate enough to be found and rescued by GRI, will ultimately end up here. Comprising ten acres of land, with ‘stables’ for the elephants at night and tents for the staff, the camp is surrounded by an electric fence, ostensibly as protection from lions. Camp Phoenix is currently home to 12 orphans and about 25 staff. On our way to the camp we passed the orphans out with their ‘minders,’ getting used to being in the bush. As they grow and become more independent they will gradually break away and find wild herds

Cheetah. KaingU Safari Lodge

to join. We beat the group back to camp, arriving in time to watch their antics as they came in for a feed and rest.

One of Africa’s oldest and largest parks, but still one of its wildest, Kafue is a remote wonderland with spectacular rivers, vast open plains, woodlands, stunning scenery, wildlife and birds. The feeling of remoteness is palpable in this vast untouched wilderness. Mass tourism does not exist here and the bush is still pure and unexplored. Infrastructure is sparse and visitor numbers are low (somewhere in the region of 15,000 to 20,000 per annum) and despite its proximity to both Lusaka and Livingstone, Kafue National Park remains little-known with huge tracts of its bush still pristine – a truly special place.

Sarah was kindly hosted at five fabulous lodges. Wilderness’ Busanga Bush Camp www.wilderness-safaris.com/camps/busanga-bush-camp Konkamoya Lodge www.konkamoya.com KaingU Lodge kaingu-lodge.com Mukambi Safari Lodge and Fig Tree Bush Camp www.mukambi.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Sarah Kingdom Born and raised in Sydney, Australia, before moving to Africa at the age of 21, Sarah Kingdom is a mountain guide, travel writer and mother of two. When she is not travelling she lives with her family on their cattle ranch in central Zambia.

Early morning shadows on the Busanga Plains. Namib Sky Balloon Safaris

She guides and runs trips regularly in India, Nepal, Tibet, Russia and Ethiopia, as well as taking travellers up Tanzania’s Mount Kilimanjaro several times a year.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Our personal attention to each and every guest makes you feel at home instantly.

Kafue National Park Experience the warm and welcoming people of Zambia and enjoy wildlife and scenery undisturbed. Enjoy tailor made safaris with our experienced guiding team. Kaingu’s stretch of the Kafue River: a myriad of channels, rapids and islands. Relax and feel the heartbeat of Africa. Accommodation on the banks of the Kafue River: six boutique tented chalets one family house

island sleep out in Tonga tree basket

Contact: lodgemanager@kaingu-lodge.com

www.kaingu-lodge.com Activities:

driving safaris, walking safaris, river cruises, fishing, canoeing, birding, island breakfasts, sleep outs and rapids dinners

Mukambi Safaris offers three magnificent prize winning camps in Kafue National Park, one of the largest areas of unspoiled wilderness. Each camp has its own character and style in different areas of the National Park, making them completely....unique by nature. We offer attractive packages where you can visit all of our three camps.

Unique by Nature +260 (0)974 424013 | reservations@mukambi.com | mukambi.com

Mukambi Safari Lodge Mukambi Safari Lodge is overlooking the Kafue River and is the gateway to Kafue National Park.

Fig Tree Bush Camp This camp lies in an undiscovered part of the park on a Shishamba River lagoon. The only camp in a range of 30 km - it offers a unique out-of-Africa atmosphere.

Busanga Plains Camp Busanga Plains Camp has 8 beds available in a classic bush camp on the famous Busanga Plains.

A Touch of Nature While On Safari

THE BUSH-SPA SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARK, ZAMBIA 22

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By: Nathalie Zanoli Photos: Dana Allen, Johan Elzenga, The Bush-Spa, courtesy of the Bushcamp Company

he award-winning, owner-run Bush-Spa overlooks a lagoon that attracts abundant wildlife and the view is quite breathtaking. The safari guest is offered a range of wellbeing packages, giving the discerning visitor an exclusive opportunity to experience a spa in the Zambian bush. The setting is hard to beat; and the treatments are adapted to suit the surroundings, being not only terrific value for money but really leaving you feeling revitalized. Situated in the beauty of the indigenous bush in Zambia, the Bush-Spa in South Luangwa National Park is part of the stunning Mfuwe Lodge complex and creates a sanctuary of pure simplicity for those seeking tranquillity and rejuvenation of mind, body and soul.

Enhancing the safari experience and in celebration of the Zambian culture, the Bush-Spa team consists of attentive, qualified Zambian therapists who are on hand to provide you with a wide variety of signature massages and a host of other therapeutic and skin care beauty treatments. Many of these use local indigenous ingredients from the African bush, further emphasizing its beauty and enchantment and creating a true Zambian experience. The Bush-Spa constantly aims to train and develop its entire staff. They achieve this through providing accessible, high quality development opportunities in education, learning and research. The quality and commitment of the team is fundamental in achieving their vision and following company strategy. And it surely shows. Proud of Zambia, the team takes indigenous remedies to the extreme and makes use of, for instance, the healing essence of Kigelia africana (fruit of the sausage tree), baobab and marula. However, the friendly, in-house-trained Zambian therapists follow African traditions without losing their quality and highly professional touch.

The Bush-Spa thrives on its unique location. There are plenty of places in the world where one can have a spa treatment, but only a few where your wellness session might be extended due to unexpected sightings of visiting wildlife! Your game viewing can even continue while enjoying a Zambian foot reflexology treatment. The Spa is open every day of the year, and can be booked upon arrival in South Luangwa, or as part of your package while staying at Mfuwe Lodge. A relaxing holistic treatment is the ideal way to break up a tiring safari, with early morning and late afternoon activities often leaving a sizeable, massage-shaped hole in the middle of your day. With a separate entrance, a private deck and views over the lagoon, all guests enjoying their safari experience in the Luangwa Valley can easily organise a visit. The Bush-Spa will gladly arrange complimentary transfers to and from the Spa to any of the South Luangwa camps or lodges within the vicinity for a minimum of two guests. Besides winning several awards, The Bush-Spa has been featured recently in the National Geographic book, ULTIMATE JOURNEYS FOR TWO: Extraordinary Destinations on Every Continent. The authors, Mike and Anne Howard, chose the unique Bush-Spa as the best spa in South Luangwa. The book has just been released in bookstores worldwide and it’s already gaining a lot of attention. National Geographic is one of the most respected publishers in the world, so this is surely something of which to be proud.

The Bush-Spa in the heart of South Luangwa, Zambia… As a guest commented: ‘.... a piece of heaven in what is paradise already’

For more information about the Bush-Spa: The Bush-Spa & Retreats Ltd., South Luangwa National Park, PO Box 58, Mfuwe, ZAMBIA +260 979 306 826 / info@bush-spa.com / www.bush-spa.com For information about Mfuwe Lodge: www.mfuwelodge.com

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Safari Profile

JACOB SHAWA

Guide & Manager - Luangwa Safari House Jacob Shawa, a professional safari guide and manager for Luangwa Safari House in South Luangwa National Park, has just received one of five Highly Commended awards in the Wanderlust World Guide Awards 2017. This award for one of the world’s top eight safari guides was presented in London on 5th October, 2017. Unfortunately Jacob was unable to attend the ceremony due to the pressures of peak season guiding work. As well as managing Luangwa Safari House, Jacob guides special trips for Robin Pope Safaris such as bat safaris in Kasanka National Park and shoebill safaris in the Bangweulu wetlands. Since 2002 he has guided David Rogers Photographic, also run by Robin Pope Safaris. These are photographic workshops helping to develop guests’ photography skills, run by leading wildlife photographer David Rogers. ‘This has greatly helped me improve my photographic skills,’ says Jacob. ‘Guests interested in photography appreciate my presence,’ he adds.

What is the Luangwa Safari House? The Luangwa Safari House is a magnificent four-bedroomed house for Robin Pope Safaris in South Luangwa. It is a special place for friends and families of up to eight people to come and experience a memorable safari holiday together. It’s a home like no other in a spectacular wilderness. How did your safari guiding career all start? Whilst at school at Mambwe High School I was the wildlife conservation chairman for one year and it was during this period that we used to do a lot of nature walks, talks, and game drives with the late Norman Carr, a tourism legend in Zambia. After completing school, I had an opportunity in 1997 to train as a professional guide when Mfuwe Lodge was training school leavers. Having passed my guiding exams in 1999, I joined Robin Pope Safaris where I have been working as a guide until now. I have also done some internal management workshops sponsored by Robin Pope Safaris with subjects such as guest care, general management of the lodge etc. What do you love most about your job? I enjoy taking guests out on walking safaris and game drives, plus the general hosting of guests from different nationalities and professions the world over. The other thing is that I learn every day from different guests. What’s been your greatest achievement? Recognition as one of the best eight top guides in the world by Wanderlust. What’s a typical day for you like? 04.50 am – I wake up, take a bath 05.15 am – Have breakfast with the guests 06.00 am – Go for a game drive or walking safari or village tour with guests 12.00 noon – Have lunch with guests then a siesta 15.30 pm – Afternoon tea with guests 16.00 pm – Go out again for either a game drive or walking safari 19.00 pm – Come back to camp

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Mr Eric Schultz American Ambassador to Zambia Interviewer by Andrew Muswala

Ambassador Schultz and wife Klaudia celebrating U.S. Independence Day

It is an honour for me to sit and chat with you. Thank you; it’s been an honour for me to serve in Zambia.

Interview

I understand you have had time to explore wilderness areas in Zambia. What’s been your favourite travel destination? And why? It’s very hard to point out one as they all have been great. I would say that my favourite moment was when my sons saw Victoria Falls for the first time in 2015. We were on the Zambian side and the look in their eyes when they saw the Falls is a favourite for me. I served at the Embassy in Zimbabwe from 2004-2007 but we did not take the boys to Victoria Falls as they were still very young. We also like the Lower Zambezi National Park because you get a combination of the river and land-based game viewing in the national park. You can fish, canoe, take river safaris, and of course do game drives. Also, of all the places in Zambia, Kafue National Park is the first park I visited in Zambia and it holds a special place in my heart. What can Zambia do to open tourism to the domestic market? To be honest, most tourist destinations in Zambia are directed at foreigners, but it’s in Zambia’s interest to convince Zambians to be tourists as well and thereby understand that your wildlife has value through its ability to draw photographic tourism, create employment, and grow the economy. This must be done through conservation, community support, and above all Zambians visiting the parks to understand the value of the wildlife. School visits for young Zambians to visit these sites is a great way to get that exposure. You have brought conservation issues to the wider audience. What issues did you feel were most important? Recognition that tourism is a renewable resource that should be protected and also knowing that we are responsible for preserving the wildlife.

Mrs. Schultz and son Alek at Victoria Falls

What do you feel most needs to be highlighted now? It’s important to recognize that wildlife is a renewable resource that needs to be protected, then leveraged for economic purposes. One study found that the value of a single lion to photographic tourism is about US$2.5 million over its lifetime, but the trophy fee to the government is only US$4,200. I don’t have a problem with hunting, but it needs to be managed so that it doesn’t impact real economic benefits. It’s also worth mentioning that the Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW) has 26 metric tons of illegal ivory in its stockpile that it can never hope to sell under any circumstance as it was seized from poachers. An ivory destruction event is free advertising and it also eliminates the cost of keeping the ivory secure. Kenya is a great example in that regard. What are the hopeful stories in Zambia’s conservation? I think people recognize that tourism can create employment. But wildlife is the basis for many of those jobs. If, for instance, people look at the number of elephants, it is going down and once they are gone, they are gone. So Zambians are now participating in the protection of wildlife; that makes me very hopeful.

Ambassador Schultz, with his wife Klaudia and sons Alek and Adam, walking cheetahs at one of Zambia’s private game reserves

What have the Zambian people taught you? You know that’s an interesting question. The lifestyle here is different from America, where people are always rushing. I have learned greater appreciation for family, friends, and free time. You get to know people much better when you take time to really sit with them. What do you love most about Zambia? Well, the people are fantastic, very friendly, and easy to get along with. But it’s the whole package – people, place, and environment. It’s a beautiful place. Most memorable moment in Zambia? When I went to the Victoria Falls with my sons. Also, meeting with Dr. Kenneth Kaunda for the first time definitely stands out, and visiting every corner of Zambia. We will miss this country very much.

Alek and Adam Schultz taking in the view of Victoria Falls

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

SOUTH LUANGWA &

Frank Steenhuisen Elephants crossing the Luangwa River at sunset

An unforgettable adventure with safariFRANK’s intrepid duo - Frank and Gesa

t has been said that if you only visit two continents in a lifetime, visit Africa twice. For the wild at heart it is somewhere that will call you back time and time again – a destination full of adventure and wonder. Two individuals who know this better than most are Frank and Gesa, an intrepid duo who have made the continent their home, and their mission to share its beauty with others. As qualified walking and trail guides, Frank and Gesa are an integral part of the African adventure company safariFRANK. Throughout the year they journey right off the beaten track, far from the tourist packs, to provide visitors memorable encounters with extraordinary wildlife and to connect them with African culture. Recently, whilst on assignment with safariFRANK, the pair fulfilled a long-held dream to explore South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi. Their aim was to get to know the area and meet with their operators/suppliers based there – but the outcome was so much more. The adventure started at one of Africa’s best-kept safari secrets, South Luangwa. As one of the nation’s oldest walking safari destinations, the area has successfully held

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on to its ‘old Africa’ feel. Animals, plants and landscape combine to form a spectacular wildlife sanctuary which acts as home to hippos (an estimated 6,000), leopards (South Luangwa has been voted one of the top five destinations in which to view them), giraffe, wildebeest and zebra… to name just a few. ‘There is nothing quite like a walking safari in the African wilderness,’ said Frank and Gesa of their experience. ‘Getting up with the rising sun, stepping in the footsteps of elephants, feeling the ground beneath your feet… you never know what will happen once you get out there but one thing is for certain - anything and

everything is possible.’

Staying in traditional bush camps added to the experience and created the perfect ‘play and stay’ combination, making South Luangwa irresistible to those seeking a less ordinary adventure. Central to creating these unforgettable moments are the local guides, which the team at safariFRANK know and go to great lengths to appreciate. ‘We were especially impressed by our guides, some of them having worked here for more than 20 years,’ said Gesa. ‘They took a lot of pride in high guiding standards and the old pass on their knowledge to the young.’

Gesa Neitzel Experiencing the African wilderness on foot in South Luangwa

By: Johan Steenhuisen (founder of safariFRANK) Photos: Frank Steenhuisen, Gesa Neitzel

Frank Steenhuisen The Lower Zambezi is a paradise for birds and wildlife

THE LOWER ZAMBEZI

safariFRANK is a boutique adventure tour operator based in Brisbane and Berlin.

Frank Steenhuisen Lunch is served… in the Zambezi River

For more information see www.safarifrank.com or contact them at info@safarifrank.com

After a week immersed in the Luangwa Valley, the road trip continued for Frank as he journeyed alone to the Lower Zambezi. ‘It’s a place I’ve always wanted to visit since first seeing it from afar in Mana Pools National Park, just opposite on the Zimbabwe side of the Zambezi River,’ said Frank. ‘I had heard a lot about this place in my recent time in Zambia, so let’s just say expectations were high.’ These expectations were immediately met as Frank stepped straight onto a boat and headed across the mighty Zambezi River. From here, visitors receive a front row seat

to the national park’s spectacular scenery and can view the uninhibited wildlife going about its daily business on the river’s banks. Large herds of elephant roam along the 120 kilometres of river frontage, with frequent lion and leopard sightings providing exceptional game viewing. ‘It felt like an absolute paradise for general game and birds, of which I managed to identify 118 species in two days,’ said Frank.

But what made the area so special for Frank as a walking guide was the vast array of activities which allow visitors to get up close and personal to the extraordinary African wildlife. In an area spread across 4,000 square kilometres of game-rich terrain, safaris can be enjoyed by car, canoe, foot or boat, with night-time game viewing a great option for spotting the area’s healthy population of larger cats.

After a whirlwind two weeks of game viewing and once-in-a-lifetime experiences, Frank and Gesa’s road trip with safariFRANK came to end – for now! South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi had exceeded all expectations and the pair is looking forward to getting back there and showing visitors their Africa. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Know Your African Wildlife:

African Elephants W

herever we come from, we grow up being aware of elephants. They are the stars in children’s books, the decorations on kids’ clothes and prominent members of the cuddly toy section of a baby’s room. However, nothing compares to watching these wildlife icons in their natural habitat.

African elephants are vast – big bulls achieve 6,000 kg – and the largest of all land animals, standing over 3 m (9.9 ft) at the shoulder. To sustain this bulk, they spend almost all their lives feeding. The volume and variety of forage ingested is impressive, ranging from a mainly grass diet in the rainy season to fruits, leaves, tree branches and bark in the dry season. An elephant gathers food from a range of sources thanks to the combination of its tusks (elongated incisor teeth) and its trunk (an extended nose adaptation unique to elephants). The trunk is formed of more than 100,000 muscle fibres which combine to develop incredible strength but equally astonishing dexterity. Being an extended nose, it is capable not only of reaching, collecting, gathering and feeding, but also of detection through scent, elephants’ primary sense.

Elephants are highly social creatures: cows live in family herds of females and their young. Bull elephants separate gradually from their natal herds in their teenage years, breaking away entirely as they mature. Older bull elephants form ‘bull herds’ numbering from two to 16, with larger bulls displaying their dominance by pushing younger bulls off feeding sites.

There is often sparring and play-fighting in bull groups. Elephants roam widely across their ranges, following the best food sources. Their movements are highly governed by access to water, especially in the dry season when their forage is very dry, and they need water – and mud-bathing – to keep cool. Cooling is assisted

by hundreds of blood vessels on the back of their large ears which lose heat to the surrounding air.

Calves are born at any time of the year, but the majority arrive at the start of the rains when food is plentiful. After 22 months’ gestation, it is perhaps not surprising that they can weigh up to 150 kg at birth. Witnessing births in the wild

is very rare, but several have been seen in South Luangwa. The future of elephants is in doubt across the continent, but in the Luangwa you are still guaranteed to see them on your safari. There is so much to observe and learn about elephant society, behaviour and ecology and your safari guide will help you see into their world. I hope you enjoy your safari in Zambia!

Edward is a seasoned safari guide and specialist photo safari operator based year-round in South Luangwa National Park. By: Edward Selfe Photos: Edward Selfe For more in the ‘Know Your African Wildlife’ series, visit: www.edwardselfephotography.com

PROJE CT FINANCING FO R ZAM BIA * We have backing from reputable international financiers seeking viable projects for which they will consider affordable finance. * Can be in any sector of the Zambian economy. * A professional business plan required to back the proposal. * A project must have a minimum value of US$ 10 million to be considered.

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THE NYIKA PLATEAU Zambia’s North Eastern Highlands By: Robin Pope Photos: Robin Pope

f asked where your favourite place in Zambia or even Africa is, the Nyika Plateau always comes to my mind. I have been visiting this high plateau, situated in both Zambia and Malawi, for over 50 years. It was a favourite family destination in my teens. So what exactly comes to mind? Views, open skies, dramatic escarpments, rolling grassland and dense montane forests, along with good plains game, excellent birding and a remarkable variety of seasonal flowers and orchids.

The Nyika Plateau, along with the Livingstone Mountains of Tanzania, Mount Gorongosa in Mozambique and the Vumba and Inyanga Ranges of Zimbabwe were formed by the same forces which created the East African rift. This rift also created the third largest freshwater lake in Africa - Lake Malawi - which lies just east of and below the Nyika. The drive from Lusaka takes some 22 hours, and as you drive up the winding dirt road towards the escarpment you can glimpse steep mountainous buttresses rising up into the clouds. The slopes of the Nyika Plateau are cloaked with sub-evergreen forest but as you travel higher into the foothills you will notice that the deeply incised river valleys are now covered by submontane forest. There is a dramatic moment as you break out of the miombo forest onto the high plateau at roughly 2000 m (6,600 ft.) You are immediately aware of the brightness of the sun, and the exceptional clarity and freshness of the air, which carries scents and fragrances of flowers and herbaceous mountain species. There is also a marked decrease in temperature.

For information see cawsmw.com. Nyika is usually accessed by road from Rhumpi in Malawi. You will require foreign exchange, passports, visas, and Comesa insurance for the vehicle. There are also flights into Chelinda – see www.flyulendo.com. A night stop at the Protea Hotel, Chipata, is recommended.

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Upland grasslands stretch away, interspersed with rolling hills and granite outcrops, while a mosaic of pristine relic montane forest patches lie in the heads of the valleys. Heathers and protea heaths, dambos (shallow wetlands) and marshes cover the grasslands of the plateau and these aquifers and drainages feed into streams and rivers, which plunge down the escarpment providing essential water to the lowlands of Zambia and Malawi. The highest peak on the Nyika is Nganda Peak which reaches an elevation of 2605 m (8,596 ft). From this peak, on a clear day, Lake Malawi and the Livingstone Mountains of southern Tanzania are visible. The winding dirt road up the Nyika escarpment is reasonably good but it is essential to have a 4 x 4 vehicle with

high clearance. After a longish drive, and with the satisfaction of being on the home stretch, plus feeling the bite of the cool air, thoughts tend to stray to where to stay, a warm meal, possibly a small tipple and a roaring fire.

There is presently one accommodation option - soon to be two. The first, Chelinda, is managed by the wellestablished Malawian company, Central African Wilderness Safaris. Chelinda is located in the centre of the Nyika and has three-tiered accommodation: a five-star lodge, or comfortable self-catering cottages and a campsite. The second alternative will be the recently refurbished but not yet reopened Zambian Rest House, owned by the Zambian Government. The historic Zambian Rest House, opened in the 1950s, is located close to the western escarpment and from here there are spectacular views of the Makutu and Vipama mountains of eastern Zambia. The Nyika is known for its bracing yet thin air, spectacular views, clear streams and good walking country. There are more than 200 species of orchid (seen in the rains), over 400 species of bird, a number of which are endemic, and certain rarities do occur. The majority of the plains game species can be found within a 10kilometre radius of Chelinda and include numerous roan, eland, zebra, reedbuck and bushbuck and occasional bush pig and hyena – watch out for klipspringer on the granite rocks. Increasingly, elephant are frequenting the plateau and this year a further 34 have been translocated to the Nyika. The extensive relic montane forest patches are festooned with ferns and lianas. A number of the tree species grow to over 40 m (132 ft) in height, and in these mysterious forests live trogons and hornbills, leopard, blue and red forest duiker and blue monkeys. Chelinda has three dams along the Chelinda stream, which have been stocked with trout since the 1960s and fly fishing is possible at certain times of the year. We visited the Nyika in March 2017 and already we have planned to spend Christmas in this wonderful environment. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

THE EMERALD

SEASON

lso known by its less attractive name ‘rainy season’, the Emerald Season is arguably the most beautiful season in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park. This low tourist season though does have its limitations, as large parts of the park are flooded or too muddy to drive through. Also, wildlife may be harder to spot in high grass and lush vegetation. That said, however, many animals also do not like to get their feet wet, so they tend to stay close to the all-weather roads or even on them. South Luangwa, therefore, is well worth a visit during the Emerald Season. Signs of new life begin to show, the vegetation is rejuvenating and many animals have their young. Also, the wetlands attract prolific birdlife with many migrant birds visiting the area. It only takes a few weeks for the park to become lush and green and perhaps you might get wet on a few drives, but that does not mean it rains all day; rains are often short and sharp, with plenty of sunshine in between. Advantageously, accommodation and safaris are generally cheaper at this time of year. And another bonus, the area is even less crowded than usual, so you might have the wilderness all to yourself! Every day is different, as each morning it is a surprise to the self-drive enthusiast, or guides taking guests out, to know which road is still passable and which have become flooded overnight. This challenge adds to the experience and makes each day a special one.

Should you wish to enjoy the freedom of staying out in the park for as long as you want, a self-drive safari vehicle from Personal Touch gives you that option. The rental safari vehicles have enough space to accommodate your small party or your specialist equipment. If the challenge of finding passable roads is too much of an adventure, Mfuwe Lodge in the heart of South Luangwa offers, besides luxury accommodation, excellent safari drives accompanied by highly professional guides, flexible enough to deal with the avid photographer.

The Most Beautiful Season in South Luangwa By: Johan W. Elzenga - in co-operation with Personal Touch Photos: Johan W. Elzenga – in co-operation with Personal Touch and BCC

The Emerald Season is certainly the most scenic time to visit South Luangwa – it also boasts the best light of the year. Gone are the parched skies of the dry season, now replaced with luscious golden red light and moody grey promises of towering cloud. The air is clean, clear and finally dustfree, making colours stand out and showcasing stunning cloud-stacked sunsets. There is plenty of wildlife on which to focus, from migrant birds and babies taking their first steps, to lions trying to avoid getting their feet wet. So yes, the Emerald Season is a time of refreshment, a time for the renewal of nature and its fauna and flora. To us, it is one of the best times to visit South Luangwa. The author wishes to thank everyone from Mfuwe Lodge, the Bushcamp Company and Personal Touch for their hospitality and logistic arrangements. Without them, these images could not have been taken.

For more images and background information, the coffee table book Emerald Season of Luangwa Valley is available for sale at website: http://www.johanfoto.com/emerald-season-book/, and is great as a gift or a souvenir with lasting memories of South Luangwa. More information: Johan W. Elzenga, professional photographer www.johanfoto.com The Personal Touch, for game viewing vehicles and safaris www.tptouch.com Mfuwe Lodge & Bushcamp Company, an award-winning lodge and bushcamps inside the national park www.bushcampcompany.com

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By: Nicky Dunnington-Jefferson talks to Anna Weyher of the Kasanka Baboon Project Photos: Frank Willems

thought I knew about baboons. After all, throughout my years of observing wildlife in many African countries, I’ve seen multifarious species of these animals. But I didn’t know about Kinda baboons (Papio kindae) until I visited Zambia in 2016. And who better to tell me about them than Anna Weyher, founder and principal investigator of the Kasanka Baboon Project based in Kasanka National Park. A meeting with Anna, an American, at Mutinondo Wilderness Lodge where she was enjoying a few days’ rest from her research work, proved fascinating. I began by asking her about the project that is currently ongoing in Kasanka and how this started. She explained, ‘I started my Masters and my PhD studying a species of baboons that had never been studied before – in Kasanka National Park in 2010. They are called Kinda baboons. They used to be grouped with yellow baboons but with the recent genetic evidence in the last ten or so years we have realised that they are quite distinct.’ Are they confined to Zambia or where else is their range? ‘Their range is across northern Zambia,’ Anna said, ‘all the way

from here in the north on the east side of Zambia across Kafue, and also southern DRC and then Angola.’ In fact they were named by Swedish zoologist Einar Lönnberg in 1919, after a site locality near Kinda, a town in southern Democratic Republic of Congo. She continued: ‘The project has been running now for six years, but when I started, it was a wild group that I had to habituate to my presence and I can now recognise them all individually.’ I wondered how many there were in a group. ‘About 65, but it can range from, say, 50 to 45, up to over 100,’ she told me. ‘We

“We’ve noticed that there was very interesting male/female behaviour going on that hadn’t been seen in other baboons” have ten pregnant females this year and one of the interesting things about Kindas is that they give birth to infants that can be all different colours; all the other baboons give birth to black infants.’

I was keen to know how Kindas differ from other baboons such as chacmas and yellow baboons. Anna explained, ‘One of the differences when you look at them morphologically is that they are half the size of the chacma baboon, and the striking

difference is smaller, leaner, longer legs. And we’ve noticed that there was very interesting male/female behaviour going on that hadn’t been seen in other baboons: the males were initiating the relationships with females and maintaining relationships with females across all reproductive states.’ She elaborated, ‘The male/female relationships are not just happening around the time when the female is ready to mate. Over multiple years, up to four years at a time, an alpha male will stay with several females, and even if the male below him has a female that is going into oestrus they don’t contest each other… but he is spending his time maintaining the relationship with the female, helping to hold the infant, carry it, and when the female is ready to go into oestrus again it seems that he stays with her. Out of all female/male grooming we see 80 per cent of the time the male is grooming the female in the Kinda. We see in yellows, chacmas, olives and hamadryas that it is actually the complete opposite.’ ‘How do they sleep?’ I queried. Anna answered, ‘They sleep in very tall trees at night, just before the sun is setting, and then they wake up around sunrise, when they conduct the majority of their social activity. They are a very woodland species: Kindas are in the miombo woodland, feeding, resting, socialising, getting water, but the majority of their day is spent

A family of Kinda baboons, part of Anna Weyher’s study group in Kasanka National Park

Anna Weyher in the field

MEET THE KINDAS

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feeding, and then making their way to their next sleeping site while it’s still safe and climbing up the trees. And then we’re able to get there, me and my scouts, before they’re ready to move for the day and then we follow them slowly.’ Anna’s enthusiasm for her project is evident. ‘We’re just seeing infants, especially females that were born at the beginning of the study, who are now actually having their own infants, and observing the mothering styles and the changes. Some males have left and there are new dominant males.’

Young Kinda baboon enjoying the sun on a late January afternoon

When asked if the population was stable, she answered, ‘Well, in the area where I’m studying them, they are poached and there was one worry at the beginning of the study. I wondered, “If I get them very used to humans, am I putting them in danger of the poachers?” We realised that absolutely not. Whenever we come across them or they are hunted with dogs they act completely differently and very defensively and accept us in a very different way and manner. Baboons in general are very, very adaptable.’ With that said, I am confident Anna’s Kindas are in very good hands.

E AST, WEST, CE NTR AL A N D S O U TH ER N A FRICA SA FA RI SPECIALIST

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Start and end your Zambian safari in the city at MTTZ’s peaceful guest house, a private cottage on five acres of indigenous forest. We call it MT Cheza, which means a place to “chill out” in Nyanja. We provide airport transfers.

Local flights in Zambia are scheduled so efficiently around international arrival and departures that visitors often bypass Lusaka. But there are enjoyable ways to spend a few days in Zambia’s capital. We can show you how.

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Across the border - Zimbabwe

The Revival of THE CHAMABONDA VLEI By: Sarah Kerr Photos: Sarah Kerr

arrive at Bhejane Trust’s offices in Victoria Falls. The trust is a non-profit organisation that assists the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority (Zimparks) in managing the Park’s estates, anti-poaching activities and ranger welfare. One of their key areas is the Chamabonda vlei area of the Zambezi National Park, and I have been invited by co-founder Trevor Lane and his colleague Patrick Williamson on one of their routine trips to the area to learn more about Bhejane.

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The Zambezi National Park makes up 56,000 hectares stretching westward from the town of Victoria Falls. The park comprises diverse habitats: the Zambezi River, floodplains, mopane woodland, life-giving springs,

grasslands and teak forests. It is bisected by the road from Victoria Falls to Kazungula/ Kasane. On the road’s northern side is the Zambezi and to the south is the area known as ‘the Chamabonda’. The Chamabonda area itself is a productive teak woodland punctuated by two open, grassed vleis (long valley floors that flood during the rainy season): the Chamabonda and the Khalisosa.

I jump into the Bhejane Trust’s Land Rover and we head out of town. As we drive, Trevor explains how Chamabonda used to be a popular and well-maintained tourist route. ‘Buses would game-drive along the vlei and it was considered a prime game viewing location,’ he says. He reasons that sadly a lack of resources and visitors in the years of economic downturn meant that water points and roads were not maintained. By 2010 no maintenance had been done in the

Across the border - Zimbabwe area for 10 years. Roads were in disrepair, there were no functioning water points, and these, coupled with heavy poaching, had resulted in a devastating decline in wildlife. Game populations were very low and there were few visitors. In 2010 the Bhejane Trust, alongside a dedicated but under-resourced National Parks service, set out to change things for the better in the area. We enter the park and within minutes are confronted by the sullen stares of a herd of Cape buffalo. They graze slowly, their impressive bulk apparent with each ponderous movement. I am surprised and delighted to see animals so quickly. Minutes later we see waterbuck and not long afterwards a dazzle of zebra, then sable followed by more buffalo... it is clear that the efforts here have worked. We check on a water point that Bhejane has put in. Trevor and Patrick circle the waterhole checking for leaks then examine the pump and solar unit.

of dark muscle, 300-strong and nothing short of breathtaking.

Throughout the day, as we stop at water points and hides, I am struck by Bhejane’s hands-on approach. Trevor gives Patrick a list of things to action in the coming week and they are thorough and efficient, with a clear focus on solutions. Using this approach, the trust has resurrected or installed five functional solar-powered water points and three game-viewing hides along the Chamabonda. The impact of the game-water in helping wildlife in the area recover cannot be overstated. Lion, sable, elephant and buffalo sightings are commonplace. Bhejane has also provided much-needed assistance in grading roads, creating firebreaks, combating poaching and much more.

We spend the final moments of the day at Platform Three watching a breeding herd of 28 elephants coming down to drink. They are nervous, scenting the air and keeping their babies closely guarded in the middle of the Continuing, we reach the start of the group; and they spook at the slightest noise. strikingly beautiful 25-kilometre Chamabonda vlei. It is the end of a long, hot, This is unusual for the area now and this group has likely come from where there is dry season and golden grass sways along conflict with humans. As we drive away, with the floodplain stretching in front of us. On the sun setting over the Chamabonda, I hope either side, the land rises and changes to a they settle in the relative safety provided woodland bright green with the shoots of here. It is a poignant reminder of how spring. In a powder-blue sky a pair of yellow-billed kites is soaring and below them important these refuges are. in the vlei is a huge buffalo herd – a long wall

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Sarah Kerr Sarah is a qualified photographer, graphic designer, writer and media maker with over 10 years of experience. She lives in Zimbabwe and is passionate about sharing the diverse beauty and complex stories of her country of birth.

Visit sarahkerrdesign.com to see more of her work.

Info Box None of the Bhejane Trust’s results could happen without the hard work and direction of Zimparks. The remarkable achievements at Chamabonda are a mere microcosm of the work they do hand in hand in Zimbabwe. They also operate in the Robins and Sinamatella areas of Hwange National Park and Kazuma Pan National Park and now pump over two million litres of water for wildlife each day. The trust is wholly funded by outside sources. You can help by visiting their website (bhejanetrust.org) and donating or by visiting one of Zimbabwe’s national parks.

TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

Across the border - Zimbabwe

IN SUPPORT OF C MPING By: Leslie Nevison Photos: Leslie Nevison

e are filling the open beds of the 4 x 4s with camping gear. The sun has just risen. I survey what is spread over the lawn – tents, mattresses, sleeping bags, pillows, lanterns, coolers, buckets, pots and pans, tables, wash basins, chairs – amassed over a few months of weekends for this one, do-it-yourself camping trip to Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park. As it happens, we have too much and must leave a table behind. I think, how much easier it is to book a safari lodge or camp, where upon arrival, smiling people offer refreshing towels, gin and tonics, and take your bags to your tent. Tonight, we must erect our own tents after first agreeing on their location away from hippos’ nightly meanders. And then, we must cook! I suspect using an established lodge and camp is less expensive too. Determining the dollar value of what you have spent in hours of preparation is impossible. As a safari operator, I encounter clients who associate camping with saving money. ‘I don’t mind camping to keep my costs down,’ they write. Granted, the kind of camping they have in mind may not be the glamping to which I have graduated – my mattresses are 15 centimetres thick and my wine supply takes up the entire back

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seat. (And, I might add, calculated very carefully per person per night.) I use private camp sites over public ones. But the truth of the matter is that we don’t self-camp because it is less trouble or cheaper.

We find freedom in doing everything ourselves. We are not restricted by lodge schedules. We position our camp chairs with a view of river, spring, lagoon, or bush and observe what comes and goes on the wildlife channel. We identify birds and take photographs. There is no hurry. This is not to say that self-camping should replace safari lodges. It’s better if you combine camping with lodges where excellent guides contribute immeasurably to the entire safari experience. Diversity is the key to a great safari. Selfcamping is another way to add that diversity to the itinerary. It’s guaranteed that you will end up with hilarious stories about the baboons which tried to break into the tents or the hyenas which stole shoes in the middle of the night. Furthermore, there comes a time when everyone needs a proper shower, and when even the most astutely assessed quantities of wine run out. This is a good time to relocate to a lodge. Otherwise, all you will have to live on is food and water. (I paraphrase W.C. Fields’s quote: ‘Reminds me of my safari in Africa. Somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days all we had to live on was food and water.’)

Across the border - Zimbabwe In Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park, our private camp site is on a bluff overlooking the Zambezi River. Zambia lies on the opposite shore. Elephants cross the river in either direction at first light and at sunset. A lioness and two young male cubs jog through on a mission one day. A hyena steals two of our guests’ shoes from outside their tents. We manage to retrieve one pair. That same hyena eats our camera trap which is fastened to a nearby tree. We take a few game drives but mainly we stay in camp and watch wildlife television. At night, we stare into the fire fuelled by aromatic mopane wood. Such a magnificent private site is rare to obtain these days. Twenty years ago, I could arrive at the entrance gate of Tanzania’s

Serengeti National Park or the Selous Game Reserve and be given a private camp site. To be sure, this was before cell ‘phones and computers, but my point is that private sites were available for do-it-yourself campers and not all reserved for seasonal operators as they tend to be today. Zambia doesn’t permit camping inside its parks at all. Communal camp sites are in the grounds of accommodations outside South Luangwa and Kafue National Parks. Zimbabwe may be unique in that private camp sites remain inside its parks, which, if you start early enough (September/October of the previous year) and persevere with Zimparks, you can successfully book and enjoy the following dry season for as long as your wine and shoes last.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Leslie Nevison Leslie Nevison is the director of Lusaka-based MTT Zambia Ltd, which arranges private safaris in Zambia, Zimbabwe, and nine other African countries. www.MTTSafaris.com leslie@MTTSafaris.com 00 260 962 831

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News In Brief May her soul rest in peace We are sad to share the news of the passing away of Jenny, the matriarch of the Cumings family, wife of David, mother of Grant and Kevin, granny of Nathan, Lewis, Scott and Lauren. For those of you who knew Jenny, you might remember her for her famously late hours and her Skype signature, ‘Leopards work best at night, just like Jenny’. May Jenny’s soul rest in peace. The Cumings Family, Chiawa Camp & Old Mondoro Chibembe is happening! ‘Onsite construction progress for the recently launched Chibembe Wildlife Reserve is proceeding to plan,’ says development manager for the project, James Arnott. ‘We have completed the internal plot access roads and signage, demolished the remnants of the old camp and commenced with the water reticulation to all the sites. The 2018 dry season will herald the start of the development of the new top structures. We have sold over 50 per cent of the 18 plots on offer, so get in quickly!’ (www.chibembe.com or email james@chibembe.com for more info).

KaingU Safari Lodge Tonga Treehouse We recently created a unique tree house for guest sleep-outs. Woven muchinga, inspired by local grain stores, creates a special ambience for sleeping under the stars after a day’s canoeing or simply adding the icing to another memorable day on safari.

Community Development - Royal Zambezi Lodge At Royal Zambezi Lodge we believe in responsible tourism and supporting the environment around us, giving high priority to the wellbeing of our local communities and preserving the local ecosystem. One of our developments within the community is the opening of the Claire Kartagener Maternity Ward at Mugarameno Village in December, 2016. READ MORE on www.royalzambezilodge.com/giving-back We are excited to announce that the Mulberry Mongoose team is increasing the impact of their donations to include Conservation Lower Zambezi (CLZ)! If you don’t yet know about Mulberry Mongoose’s unique accessories let me enlighten you: - Every piece of jewellery sold goes to help fund anti-snare patrols and support conservation, so a portion of all sold pieces comes back to support CLZ’s wildlife protection efforts. - Team members weave organic and local materials into their designs to create a uniquely Zambian piece. Their signature pieces are made from vegetable ivory seeds (seeds that fall from palm trees), hand-carved wooden beads and vintage Zambian coins. - They transform collected snare wire into striking jewellery and celebrities including Bill and Hilary Clinton, Whoopi Goldberg and Sting have worn their pieces. Buy or own a stunning piece of art while helping a greater cause! Visit their workshop and retail outlet in the South Luangwa. Here, next to a well-trodden elephant path, they hand-craft their pieces. Ask your safari lodge for details on how to visit. You can also check out their online shop: www.mulberrymongoose.com

Time + Tide Norman Carr Safaris is thrilled to announce that Kakuli Camp will be rebuilt for the coming 2018 season. Scheduled to open in early June, the camp will retain its wild, authentic feel while sporting an entirely new design and infrastructure. We look forward to welcoming guests into the new and improved Kakuli Camp! Time + Tide’s popular Rivers & Rainbows itinerary will now be even easier for guests to enjoy with Proflight’s new direct flight from Royal Airstrip in the Lower Zambezi to Livingstone. TRAVEL & LEISURE ZAMBIA

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Articles inside

The Revival of the Chamabonda Vlei

In Support of Camping

Meet The Kindas

The Emerald Season

Know Your African Wildlife: Elephants

The Nyika Plateau

What Would A Safari Be Without Hippos?

The Luwi Pride

A Touch of Nature While on Safari

Five Reasons Why

South Luangwa & The Lower Zambezi

Capture: Summertime in South Luangwa