with 21 beautiful and well thought out hotels, lodges, village stays and more Take a trip through a Kenyan landscape that might be the source for your cuppa

In the foothills of Mount Kenya, award-winning Lonely Planet magazine photographer Jonathan Gregson meets the smallholder farmers who help to quench the British thirst for tea

@jonathangregsonphotography

The tea estate at Makomboki. Previous pages: Baskets of freshly picked tea are delivered to a buying station at Imenti

KENYAN TEA TRAIL

Mount Kenya is a beacon for climbers and walkers, dominating the landscape all around it. Within the mountain's shadow are these beautiful tea gardens, arranged like the immaculate topiary of a British stately home. At an altitude of around 2,000m, a combination of the quality of soil, temperature and availability of water have long suited the cultivation of tea – although climate change is threatening that.

I visited Makomboki, not far from Nairobi, and plantations and smallholdings in Meru County, to the east of Mount Kenya. Here I met families where tea planting knowledge has been passed from generation to generation. Whole hillsides are a vibrant green here – even on a dull day, tea emits this light. The smallholder farmers have plots of one to three acres, with tea growing alongside other crops. I saw beehives set high in trees, and kids chasing animals about; livestock such as cows and goats are kept close.

It becomes so hot in the middle of the day that most activity is restricted to early or late. As temperatures cooled o f into the a f ernoon, I watched farmers bringing their baskets of tea in to a buying station. They spread their tea out in the shade, where it could be inspected for quality; only a central bud with two tips either side of it is picked. At this stage the freshly picked tea is so aromatic, with a rich, organic smell. I tasted the black tea grown here, which gives a really bold, orange, bright cup of tea.

Black tea from this region is used in the blend for Yorkshire Tea, the company behind which has supported the planting of 1.5 million trees around tea estates in Kenya. Here the trees benefit farmers in several ways: they improve soil quality, reduce water run-o f and give a secondary income from crops like avocados, macadamias and mangos. The tea-growing region near to Meru National Park is rich in wildlife, and so trees planted close together are helping in another way: they discourage elephants from wandering into the tea gardens.

Sarah, a smallholder farmer at Imenti, and scenes from around the tea estate there and its buying station

MAKE IT HAPPEN ) BA and Kenya Airways fly direct from London to Nairobi (from £500; kenya-airways.com). ) Makomboki Tea Factory is 35 miles north of Nairobi, near the southern end of Aberdare National Park. Imenti Tea Factory is 100 miles northeast of Nairobi. While neither has facilities for visitors, take in scenes of tea cultivation en route to the region’s other sights. ) It’s nine miles from Imenti to Meru, the main town to the east of Mount Kenya. Meru National Park, 1 ½ hours’ drive east of here, is one of Kenya’s less-visited wildlife havens, with its lion and rhino populations a particular highlight. The semi-luxury tents at iKweta Safari Camp are excellent value (from £135; ikwetasafaricamp.com). ) Visit yorkshiretea.co.uk/ yorkshire-tree to find out more about Yorkshire Tea’s Yorkshire Tree project.

KENYAN TEA TRAIL

Top tip for travelling sustainably with kids: Some parks run volunteer programmes where families can help build trails. Can you combine your holiday with giving back? Sea turtle conservation is also a favourite!

Top tip for getting the kids involved : Let them be tour guide for the day. They can read up before you go, write some notes about what they want to show you and discuss. You’ll be surprised at what you can learn from them.

Top tip for preparing children for the culture shock: Talk about what they can expect to eat, what they might like and what they want to try. Remind them how important it is to be respectful of other people’s choices - politeness is key!

Top tip to make your holiday teen-friendly: Find some good local apps to support your teenager’s emotional investment in the trip - a basic language one or anything that helps them find a fun place for a coffee is a good start!

Tips taken from the NEW The Family Travel Handbook , out now.

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Arrive hungry to Concettina ai Tre Santi

Naples is a place of soulstirring art and panoramas, spontaneous conversations and unexpected elegance. Blessed with rich volcanic soils, the sea, and a depth of culinary know-how, it’s one of Italy’s epicurean heavyweights. DA ETTORE Via Gennaro Serra 39 This snug, eight-table trattoria has an epic reputation going back decades. The draw is solid regional cooking, which includes one of the best spaghetti alle vongole (with clams) in town.

50 KALÒ 50kalo.it This trendy pizzeria’s name roughly translates as ‘good dough’ in Neapolitan. Thirdgeneration pizzaiolo Ciro Salvo’s obsessive research translates into wonderfully light, perfectly charred wood-fired pizzas. Quality is the key here: from the olive oil to the rustic pork salami, ingredients are sourced directly from local and artisanal producers.

CONCETTINA AI TRE SANTI pizzeriaoliva.it Head in by noon (or 7.30pm at dinner) to avoid a long wait at this hot-spot pizzeria, made famous thanks to its young, driven pizzaiolo Ciro Oliva. The menu is an index of fastidiously sourced artisanal ingredients, used to top flawless, wood-fired bases. Traditional Neapolitan pizza aside, you’ll also find creative seasonal options.

OUT ON THE WATER

Work o f some of that food on a tour with Kayak Napoli. Head along the coastline, gliding past ruins, Neoclassical villas and gardens, and into secret sea caves. Tours cater to all abilities (kayaknapoli.com). GAY-ODIN gay-odin.it Not so much a chocolatier as an institution, Gay-Odin concocts some of the city’s finest cocoa creations, including chocolate ‘cozze’ (mussels). For a punch to the palate, try the chocolatecoated co f ee beans or the fiery chilli-chocolate combo. The branch at Via Benedetto Croce 61 also sells sublime ice cream.

IL GELATO MENNELLA pasticceriamennella.it With ingredients such as prized Campanian nocciole (hazelnuts) from Gif oni and Sicilian Bronte pistachios, Mennella scoops out smashing gelato, bursting with real, vivid flavours and velvety texture. The wa f e cones are made fresh on-site and a number system means no queue jumping!

L’EBBREZZA DI NOÈ lebbrezzadinoe.com A wine shop by day, ‘Noah’s Drunkenness’ transforms into an intimate dinner spot. Settle into one of the bottle-lined dining rooms for seductive, marketdriven dishes such as paccheri fritti (fried pasta stu f ed with aubergine and served with fresh basil and a rich tomato sauce).

PIZZERIA STARITA pizzeriestarita.it The giant fork and ladle hanging on the wall at this historic NAPLES IN NUMBERS DATE OF BIRTH 474 BC when Greeks from nearby Cumae founded Neapolis SIZE 45 sq miles POPULATION 966,145 18th century when the modern pizza was invented in the city 3 number of castles in Naples pizzeria were used by Sophia Loren in L’oro di Napoli, and the kitchen made the pizze fritte sold by the actress in the film. While the 60-plus pizza varieties include a tasty fiorilli e zucchine (zucchini, zucchini flowers and provola), our allegiance remains to its classic marinara. SALUMERIA salumeriaupnea.it Small producers and modern takes on provincial Campanian recipes drive bistro-inspired Salumeria. Nibble on quality charcuterie and cheeses or fill up on artisanal panini, hamburgers or the sublime ragù napoletano (pasta served in a slow-cooked tomato-and-meat sauce). SFOGLIATELLA MARY At the Via Toledo entrance to Galleria Umberto I, this tiny takeaway vendor is widely considered the queen of the sfogliatella (‘lobster-tail’ pastries), usually still warm from the oven. Mary’s counter o f ers other classic treats, including spongey, rum-soaked babà. A fun and atmospheric spot

VENTIMETRIQUADRI Via Bernini 64a What was an old printing shop is now the city’s first specialityco f ee café. There are seven single origins and a house blend, as well as cakes and boards of cheeses and cured meats.

THE URBAN EDIT

STARRING ROLE

) The Man with the Golden Gun (1974) ) The Talented Mr Ripley (1999) ) Gomorrah (2008) ) Passione (2010)

LIKE A LOCAL

BY NAPLES RESIDENT SOPHIA SEYMOUR

At night Neapolitans spill out onto the streets and cluster around the galley bars and cafés of Piazza Bellini. On the west side, students gather at Caffè Dell’Epoca for the famous £1.50 Aperol spritz, then head on to the buzzing Afro-beats nightclub Teranga. Those in search of cocktails and live music find it in bars on the east side of the square, such as Nea, which is an art gallery by day, and leafy Intra Moenia, which doubles as a publishing house.

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ACTIVITIES Kayak Napoli EATING 50 Kalò Concettina Ai Tre Santi Da Ettore Gay-Odin Il Gelato Mennella L’Ebbrezza di Noè Pizzeria Starita Salumeria Sfogliatella Mary DRINKING Ventimetriquadri SLEEPING Hotel Piazza Bellini La Ciliegina Lifestyle Hotel The Church

SLEEPING

BUDGET THE CHURCH thechurch.it On the 4th floor of a 16th-century palazzo, this intimate B&B is decorated with contemporary Neapolitan photography and cleverly upcycled objects, from co fee percolators turned plant pots to an African tek tree made into a bookshelf. The four minimalist rooms are whimsical; the top-floor room is coveted and comes with a striking in-room shower and private terrace.

MID-RANGE HOTEL PIAZZA BELLINI hotelpiazzabellini.com Only steps from the bars and nightlife of Piazza Bellini, this sharp, hip hotel occupies a 16th-century palazzo, its pure-white spaces spiked with original majolica tiles and vaulted ceilings. Rooms are modern and functional, with designer fittings and chic bathrooms. Four rooms on the 5th and 6th floors have terraces. A MIRACLE Every year Neapolitans cram into the Duomo to witness the blood of their patron saint San Gennaro liquefy. Although science has an explanation, many locals continue to believe it’s a real miracle.

TOP END LA CILIEGINA LIFESTYLE HOTEL cilieginahotel.it An easy walk from the hydrofoil terminal, this contemporary spot has spacious white rooms, each with top-of-the-range Hästens beds and marble bathrooms with water-jet showers.Breakfast can be taken in bed or on the roo f op terrace, complete with a hot tub and a view of Vesuvius. There’s use of an iPad and the hotel website o f en has discounts. ILLUSTRATION: STELLA ISAAC

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

DRINK locally made limoncello (a sweet but potent lemon-based liqueur) on ice. TAKE a walking tour of the sacred Catacombe di San Gennaro. WATCH a drama unfold at the Teatro San Carlo, one of Europe’s most prestigious opera houses.

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Modern Moroccan design at Max & Jan

In Marrakesh, life is a performance. More than that, it’s a magical evocation of an Arabian Nights-style city of intriguing scents, ancient cries of commerce, and elegant architecture from the golden era of Islamic civilisation.

33 RUE MAJORELLE 33ruemajorelle.com More than 60 designers, mostly from Morocco, are represented in this two-floor emporium, and co-owner Yehia Abdelnour is dedicated to sourcing local talent. Quality is high and so can the prices be, but it’s still easy to find lovely threads for less. Star buys include silk harem pants, cotton children’s smocks and billowing ka f ans. There’s also a small menswear corner.

AL NOUR alnour-textiles.com This smart cooperative run by local women with disabilities is where you can find fabulous neutral household linens, embroidered garments and top-quality accessories. All the textiles can be made to measure, and it’s a popular place for stylish hand-stitched Marrakeshmod tunics, dresses and shirts for men, women and kids.

LEARN THE CRAFT

Ateliers d’Ailleurs’ studios o f er a unique insight into traditional cra f techniques and the chance to chat with artisans. Workshops are private and handson. Many workshops are held in the souqs (ateliersdailleurs.com). ANAMIL 48 Derb Sidi Ishak, Rue Azbezt If you’re looking for a unique Moroccan woollen rug or high-quality local souvenirs, Abdess Anamil can help. His small shop is crammed with beautiful things, some cherrypicked workshops and antiques shops, while the dishwasher-safe ceramics and textiles are his own designs. Good shipping rates.

L’ART DU BAIN SAVONNERIE ARTISANALE Rahba Kedima Art du Bain’s biodegradable, pure olive oil soaps carry the scent of Marrakesh in them: honey, orange blossom, jasmine, eucalyptus –there’s even a chamomile milk version for children –plus scrubs and ghassoul clay for the hammam.

MAX & JAN maxandjan.com Brace yourself for the future of Marrakesh: a Belgian-Swiss design duo have taken over multiple premises to create this giant temple to contemporary Moroccan design. One side is all about quirky jewellery, colour-pop ceramics, posters and cheeky slogan T-shirts, while the other features jazzy ka f ans and embellished jackets.

MUSTAPHA BLAOUI mustaphablaoui.com Treasure hunters rejoice: lanterns drip from the ceilings of this grand emporium of well-made homewares. Concealed behind an inconspicuous wooden door with no sign, the large space o f ers a relaxed shopping experience. MARRAKESH IN NUMBERS DATE OF BIRTH 1062 when the conquering Almoravid general Youssef Ben Tachfine established a fortified camp SIZE 27 sq miles POPULATION 928,850 500 fine in euros for cutting down a palm tree in the city 100 number of food stalls that set up nightly in the Djemaa El Fna NATUROM 213 Rue Riad Zitoun El Jedid Naturom’s neatly packaged and keenly priced argan, verbena and orange-blossom beauty products are all 100% certified organic, using pure essences and essential oils to ensure everything is hypo-allergenic. The range includes anti-ageing prickly pear oil and hammam gommage (exfoliating scrub). SISSI MOROCCO sissimorocco.com This Marrakesh brand has taken old sepia photos of Amazigh tribal women and incorporated them into hand-embroidered and printed bolster cushions, tote bags, purses and T-shirts. Quality is top notch. The main boutique is in Sidi Ghanem, but the branch in Rahba Kedima is more conveniently located. SOUQ CHERIFIA Souq Kchachbia Short-circuit souq fatigue and head straight for this converted funduq (inn used by caravans) where younger local designers congregate on the first floor in the Carré Créateurs (Artisan Sq). Pick up hand-embroidered hessian accessories from Khmissa, snazzy Berber-design babouches (leather slippers) from Tilila, and top-quality amlou (argan-nut butter) and beauty products at Arganino. Take home a lasting souvenir

THE URBAN EDIT

STARRING ROLE

) Our Man in Marrakesh (1966) ) Hideous Kinky (1999) ) Sex and the City 2 (2010) ) Marrakech by George Orwell ) Marrakesh Express by Crosby Stills & Nash

LIKE A LOCAL

BY MARRAKESH RESIDENT CHR IS GR IFFITHS

When I need to relax, I’ll head to a garden or palace space for a couple of hours. The sunken gardens of Badi Palace are a personal favourite, but I also love the random and disjointed layout of the Bahia Palace. Marrakesh’s many quiet gardens and palace complexes shouldn’t be missed. To see them at their best, get up early for a morning stroll. MAP KEY

CUT THIS OUT AND TAKE IT WITH YOU SHOPPING 33 Rue Majorelle Al Nour Anamil L’Art du Bain Savonnerie Artisanale Max & Jan Mustapha Blaoui Naturom Sissi Morocco Souq Cherifia SLEEPING Le Gallia Riad Azoulay Riad Berbère

SLEEPING

BUDGET LE GALLIA hotellegallia.com Madcap Djemaa El Fna is just around the corner, but Le Gallia maintains an air of calm and grace with clean-as-a-whistle rooms, with air-con, heating and hot water. The central courtyard has colourful tiles and is shaded by orange trees. Rooms can be booked without breakfast, meaning you can wander over to the Djemaa El Fna and eat there.

MID-RANGE RIAD BERBÈRE leriadberbere.com Besides having one of the most romantic garden courtyards in the medina, it’s the service and special little touches, such as cucumber water, and petals on the pillows that put classy Riad Berbère in its own stratosphere. The riad dates to the end of the 17th century, but rooms favour a refreshing white aesthetic and have designer appeal. Breakfasts are unmissable.

URBAN TALE Some will tell you the name ‘Marrakesh’ means ‘mountain pass’, or ‘land of the sons of Kutch’, the biblical grandson of Noah. A few say it means ‘do not linger’, signifying the danger once faced by travellers to the city.

ILLUSTRATION: STELLA ISAAC TOP END RIAD AZOULAY riad-azoulay.com The restoration of this 200-yearold mansion was a labour of love for Italian owner Sandro. The result is a haven of luxury, where original cedar ceilings and plasterwork sit alongside modern art and bright kilims. Meals mix Moroccan and Italian influences. There’s also a private hammam, and the pool in the courtyard provides the perfect antidote to a day spent in the medina. WHILE YOU’RE HERE

TAKE a walk through the Islamic college, Ben Youssef Medersa. EAT the best couscous at the stalwart of Marrakesh’s dining scene, Al Fassia. SEE the crenellated walls of the old city glowing red from a roo f op terrace at sunset.

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High drama at the Teatro Flamenco Madrid

Madrid is a beguiling place with an energy that carries a message: this city knows how to live. Step out into the streets of many barrios at night and you’ll find yourself swept along on a tide of people intent on dancing until dawn.

CAFÉ BELÉN elcafebelen.com Café Belén is cool in all the right places –lounge and chill-out music, dim lighting, a great range of drinks (especially the mojitos) and a low-key crowd. outdoor tables shut two hours before closing time, wherea f er the intimate interior is almost as good. There’s also an especially wide range of gin and tonics.

LA VENENCIA Calle de Echegaray 7 No music, no flashy decorations –La Venencia is simply a barrio classic, with manzanilla (chamomile-coloured sherry) from Sanlúcar and sherry from Jeréz poured straight from dusty wooden barrels, accompanied by a small tapas selection.

CHOCOLATERÍA DE SAN GINÉS chocolateriasangines.com One of the grand icons of the Madrid night, this specialist café for chocolate con churros sees tourists throughout the day, but locals pack it out in their search for sustenance on their way home from a nightclub somewhere close to dawn.

DELIC delic.es Nursing an exceptionally good mojito or three on a summer evening at Delic’s outdoor tables on one of Madrid’s prettiest plazas is one of life’s pleasures. Due to licensing restrictions, the

TAKE A TOUR

Devour Madrid shows you the best of Spanish food and wine in the city. Tours are themed: wine and tapas, flamenco, local markets, history, or the four-hour Ultimate Spanish Cuisine tour (madridfoodtour.com). MUSEO CHICOTE museochicote.com The founder of this 1930s-era landmark is said to have invented more than 100 cocktails, which the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Grace Kelly and Frank Sinatra all enjoyed. It’s at its best a f er midnight, when a lounge atmosphere takes over and some of the city’s best DJs do their stu f.

TABERNA EL TEMPRANILLO Calle de la Cava Baja 38 You could come for the tapas, but we recommend this bar primarily for its wines, of which it has a selection that puts many Spanish bars to shame. It’s not a late-night place, but gets packed in the early evening.

TEATRO JOY ESLAVA joy-eslava.com Inside a 19th-century theatre, this grand old dance club claims to have operated every day since 1981. The music and crowd are a mixed bag, but queues are long and invariably include locals, tourists and the occasional celebrity. Every night’s a little dif erent but the weekend is all about the best that Madrid has to o f er. MADRID IN NUMBERS

DATE OF BIRTH 854 AD when Mohammed I, emir of Córdoba, established a fortress here SIZE 233 sq miles POPULATION 3.18 million 667m height above sea level, making it the highest capital in Europe 250 number of cloudless days on average per year CAFÉ CENTRAL cafecentralmadrid.com In 2011 the respected jazz magazine Down Beat included this Art Deco bar on the list of the world’s best jazz clubs, the only place in Spain to earn the accolade. With well over 1,000 gigs under its belt, it rarely misses a beat. You’ll hear everything from Latin jazz and fusion to tango and classical jazz. SALA EL SOL elsolmad.com Madrid institutions don’t come any more beloved than this live-music venue. It opened in 1979, just in time for la movida madrileña (the Madrid scene), and quickly established itself as a leading stage for icons such as Nacha Pop and Alaska y los Pegamoides. That era lives on at El Sol, where the music rocks and rolls and usually resurrects the ’70s and ’80s, while soul and funk also get a run. Come for live music

TEATRO FLAMENCO MADRID teatroflamencomadrid.com This new venue is a terrific deal. With a focus on quality flamenco (dance, song and guitar) rather than the meal-and-show package of the tablaos, it generates a terrific atmosphere most nights.

THE URBAN EDIT

STARRING ROLE

) Amantes (The Lovers, 1991) ) Carne Trémula (Live Flesh, 1997) ) Bad Education (2003) ) Volver (2006) ) Julieta (2016)

LIKE A LOCAL

BY MADRID RESIDENT CASSANDRA GAMBILL

When I have friends in town, I do my best to give them a glimpse of local life. An easy way to do this is by sampling traditional food and drink. The more adventurous will be game for ordering callos (tripe) or morcilla (blood sausage) in a traditional taberna such as Antonio Sanchez. I also encourage all visitors to try on-tap vermouth.

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DRINKING Café Belén Chocolatería de San Ginés Delic La Venencia Museo Chicote Taberna El Tempranillo Teatro Joy Eslava

SLEEPING

BUDGET LAPEPA CHIC B&B lapepa-bnb.com A short step o f Paseo del Prado and on a floor with an Art Nouveau interior, this fine little B&B has lovely rooms with a contemporary, clean-line look so diferent from the dour hostel furnishings you’ll find elsewhere. Modern art or even a bedhead lined with flamenco shoes gives the place personality in bucketloads. It’s worth paying extra for a room with a view.

MID-RANGE CENTRAL PALACE MADRID centralpalacemadrid.com Now here’s something special. The views alone would be reason enough to come to this hotel and definitely worth paying extra for

ENTERTAINMENT Café Central Sala El Sol Teatro Flamenco Madrid SLEEPING Central Palace Madrid Hotel Orfila Lapepa Chic B&B

–rooms with balconies look out over the Palacio Real and Plaza de Oriente. The rooms are lovely and light filled, with tasteful, subtle faux-antique furnishings, comfortable beds, light wood floors and plenty of space.

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HOME FROM HOME MADRID When you are in the city, you will likely hear locals welcoming outsiders with the phrase, ‘si estas en Madrid, eres de Madrid’ (‘if you’re in Madrid, you’re from Madrid’).

ILLUSTRATION: STELLA ISAAC TOP END HOTEL ORFILA hotelorfila.com One of Madrid’s best hotels, Hotel Orfila has all the luxuries of any five-star hotel –supremely comfortable rooms, for a start –but it’s the personal service that elevates it into the upper echelon: regular guests get bathrobes embroidered with their own initials. An old-world elegance dominates the decor, and the quiet location and garden make it the perfect retreat at day’s end. WHILE YOU’RE HERE

SEE Picasso’s Guernica at the Centro d’Arte Reina Sofía and weep. DO as the locals do and take it easy for the siesta with a long lunch. BUY a beautiful embroidered and fringed silk mantón (shawl) from the department store El Corte Inglés.