Tear-out guide: best of Sarajevo

TEAR OUT GUIDE

Take a cable car for supreme views

Thrust into the world’s consciousness in the 20th century by two violent events, Sarajevo is once again a wonderful place to visit –for its intriguing architectural medley, lively street life and irrepressible spirit.

BA Š Cˇ AR ŠIJ A Centred on what foreigners call Pigeon Square, with its gazebolike Sebilj fountain from 1891, Ba šcˇaršij a (‘bash-char-shi-ya’) is the heart of old Sarajevo. Named a f er the Turkish for ‘main market’, the area is lined with stalls, lively (if tourist-centric) coppersmiths’ alleys, grand Ottoman mosques, caravanserai (inn) restaurants and lots of inviting little cafés.

GALER IJ A 11/07/95 galerij a110795.ba This gallery uses photography, video footage and audio testimonies to create a powerful memorial to the 8,372 victims of the Srebrenica massacre, one of the most infamous events of the Bosnian civil war. Allow well over an hour for a visit.

SARAJEVO CABLE CAR zicara.ba Reopened in 2018 a f er being destroyed during the war,

THREE FAITHS

Among the city tours and excursions run by InfoBosnia is a threehour ‘Judaism, Christianity and Islam’ walk that helps to show why Sarajevo was once called the ‘European Jerusalem’ (infobosniatours.com). Sarajevo’s cable car once again shuttles people on a nine-minute ride, climbing to a viewpoint 1,164m up on Mt Trebevicˇ.

SARAJEVO CITY HALL Obala Kulina bana bb A neo-Moorish striped façade makes the V ij ec´nica (1896) the city’’s most beautiful building from Austro-Hungarian times. Its colourfully restored interior and stained-glass ceiling are superb. The excellent Sarajevo 1914–2014 exhibition in the basement begins with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand, just a f er he visited the city hall.

AVLIJ A avlij a.ba Locals and in-the-know expats cosy up at painted wooden benches in this buzzing covered yard, dangling with trailing pot plants, strings of peppers and birdcages. Bosnian specialities are served, along with pasta, risotto and schnitzel. Wash them down with inexpensive local draught beers and wines.

CAKUM PAKUM Kaptol 10 A collection of antique suitcases, fringed lamps, gingham curtains and bright tartan tablecloths set the scene at this hip restaurant with only half a dozen small tables. The food is simple but delicious –savoury pancakes, salads, a large range of pasta and a small selection of grills.

Ž ELJO Kundurd ž iluk 19 & 20 Locals are willing to brave the tourist throngs at Ž eljo as it’s quite possibly the best place for c´evapi (spicy beef or pork cylindrical meatballs) in Sarajevo. There are two branches diagonally across from each other. Both have street seating; neither serves alcohol.

ART KUC' A SEVDAHA Halacˇi 5 Sit in the intimate fountain courtyard of an Ottoman-era building sipping Bosnian co f ee, rose sherbet or herbal infusions while nibbling local sweets. The experience is accompanied by the lilting wails of sevdah (traditional Bosnian music) –mostly recorded, sometimes live. SARAJEVO IN NUMBERS

DATE OF BIRTH 1461 fathered by Ottoman governor Isa-bey Isaković

SIZE 188 sq miles

POPULATION 395,000

ZLATNA RIBICA Kaptol 5 Sedate and outwardly grand, the tiny and eccentric ‘Golden Fish’ is a cosy treasure trove of antiques and kitsch, reflected in big Art Nouveau mirrors. Drinks menus are hidden in old books that dangle by phone cords. Music swerves unpredictably between jazz, Parisian crooners, opera, reggae and the Muppets.

1,425 number of days the city was under-siege between 1992 and 1996

1885 year tram service started, one of the earliest in Europe

KAZAND ŽIJ SKA RADNJA HUSEINOVIC' Kazand ž iluk 18 Most local coppersmiths stock imported or machine-made wares; Ismet Huseinovic´ is one of the few producing handcrafted work. You can find some of his pieces at this shop, though the cute ‘Aladdin’ lamps are Turkish. Take home original metalwork

THE URBAN EDIT

STARRING ROLE

) The Perfect Circle (1997) ) Welcome to Sarajevo (1997) ) No Man’s Land (2002) ) The Bridges of Sarajevo (2014)

LIKE A LOCAL

BY GUIDEBOOK AUTHOR MARK ELLIOT T

Pivnica HS is a grand, cavernous beer hall attached to the Sarajevska Brewery, and a great place to sample their brews. For something cosier in the old town, try To Be Or Not To Be, whose name was taken from a defiant siege era poster. Then check out a party night at Sloga, a rock concert at Underground or taste local vintages at Dekanter wine bar.

MAP KEY

SIGHTS Ba šcˇaršij a Galerij a 11/07/95 Sarajevo Cable Car Sarajevo City Hall ACTIVITIES InfoBosnia

SLEEPING

BUDGET DOCTOR’S HOUSE thedoctorshousehostel.com The Doctor’s House is a healthy choice, if only for the workout you’ll get walking up the hill from the centre of town. It’s a lovely neighbourhood; the French ambassador lives next door. The dorms all have privacy curtains, reading lights, power points and lockers, and there are also a couple of tidy private rooms.

MID-RANGE HOTEL VIP hotelvip.info Tucked away on a quiet lane in the centre of town, this smart modern block only has a dozen rooms but the ambience, professional service, valet

EATING Avlij a Cakum Pakum Ž eljo DRINKING Art Kuc´a Sevdaha Zlatna Ribica

CUT THIS OUT AND TAKE IT WITH YOU SHOPPING Kazand žij ska Radnja Huseinovic´

SLEEPING Doctor’s House Hotel Aziza Hotel VIP

parking and well-provisioned breakfast bu f et might have you think you’re staying somewhere far ritzier. The bathrooms are excellent, and some of the rooms have sweet balconies.

SIEGE CITY During the siege of the ’90s, Sarajevo’s heritage was pounded into rubble and its only access to the outside world was via a tunnel under the airport runway. Some of the tunnel is now the highlight of the unmissable Tunnel Museum.

ILLUSTRATION: STELLA ISAAC TOP END HOTEL AZIZA hotelaziza.ba Not just an extremely comfortable and friendly family-run hotel, this place invites you to enter into the love story of its owners, Mehmed and Aziza Poricˇanin. The 17 spacious, light-filled rooms are numbered according to significant years in the couple’s life, such as the births of children and grandchildren. A daily sauna is included in the rates. WHILE YOU’RE HERE

WATCH the streets come to life during summer festivals, such as the Sarajevo Film Festival. EAT c´ evapcˇic´ i (grilled lamb or beef) in somun bread from cafés along the lanes of Ba šcˇaršij a. DO delve into the concrete carbuncle of the Skenderij a Centre for some contemporary art.

A 1950svintage interior in Café Prückel ( founded 1904 )

ICON

Vienna’s long-standing tradition of coffeehouses captures the spirit of gemütlichkeit –a peculiarly Austrian quality of cosiness and languid indulgence. Caffeine is secondary to the kaffeehaus experience. It is but an entrance ticket to a world where you can meet friends, browse newspapers, play games, put the world to rights, reflect and linger for hours. Many Viennese go misty-eyed when you ask them about their favourite kaffeehaus, affectionately known as ‘the city’s public living rooms’.

The story goes that at the Battle of Vienna in 1683, the Ottoman invaders le f sacks of co fee beans behind as they beat a hasty retreat. There was speculation as to what these beans were, with most surmising they were camel feed or dung. Military o f cer Jerzy Franciszek Kulczycki had encountered co fee while in captivity in Turkey. Adding a dash of milk and sweetening the blend to Viennese tastes, he soon opened Vienna’s first co feehouse, the Hof zur Blauen Flasche. Ka feehäuser began to pop up all over Vienna. By the late 18th century, Mozart and Beethoven used co feehouses for public performances and, at the turn of the century, artists, writers and radical thinkers began to meet there. In 2011, co feehouses were added to the Unesco list of Intangible Cultural Heritage, as ‘places where time and space are consumed, but only the co fee is found on the bill’. In February the Ka feesiederball is held – a prestigious ball. The Viennese classic is the ‘Melange’ –half-co fee, half-milk and topped with milk froth or cream, similar to a cappuccino. Viennese waiters can be brusque, but a polite ‘grüss gott‘ (good day) and a pinch of German will go far.

SUPERLATIVE EATS

THE LEAST MINIMALIST ONE

KOH PHANGAN Sweden’s enduring love for the beaches of Thailand finds shape in Södermalm as an outrageously kitsch restaurant, best experienced at night. Tuck into chicken fried rice in a real tuk-tuk to the sounds of crickets and tropical thunder. kohphangan.se

One of the oldest restaurants in the world

THE BEST-VALUE ONE

HERMANS This justifiably popular vegetarian bu fet (from £12) is one of the nicest places to dine in Stockholm, with a glassed-in porch and outdoor terrace seating overlooking the city’s glittering skyline from a clif top perch above the popular Fotografiska museum. Fill up on inventive, flavourful veggie and vegan creations served from a cosy, vaulted room –you might need to muscle your way in, but it’s worth the e fort. hermans.se

THE HOTTEST ONE

EKSTEDT Dining at this Michelin-starred restaurant is as much an experience as a meal. Everything is cooked in a wood-fired oven, over a fire pit or smoked in a chimney. Chef Niklas Ekstedt’s education in French and Italian cooking informs his approach to traditional Scandinavian cuisine –but only slightly. Choose from four- or six-course set menus. ekstedt.nu

THE OLDEST ONE

PHOTOGRAPHS: JOEL ÅHLIN, DAVID LOFTUS DEN GYLDENE FREDEN Open since 1722, the venerable ‘Golden Peace’ is run by the Swedish Academy. Its members meet here regularly and (rumour has it) decide on many a winner for the Nobel Prize in Literature at its tables. If there were a similar prize for cookery, it should certainly go to the chefs, whose sublime o ferings include civilised husmanskost (home-style) dishes like roast lamb with chanterelles, cabbage and country cheese, or old-school Swedish meatballs. Sit in the barrel-vaulted cellar or slightly posher upstairs rooms. gyldenefreden.se

THE URBAN EDIT

MY PERFECT DAY

Preston Fortuin is Cape Town manager for Urban Adventures –you can browse their city tours via lonelyplanet.com/experiences.

9 AM

The light in the morning is amazing in Cape Town. I get up early and grab a co fee from Deluxe Co feeworks (pictured), or I head to Harvest Café & Deli in Bo-Kaap for their eggs Benedict. Bo-Kaap is known for its colourful houses and cobbled streets. The Bo-Kaap Museum is in one of the district’s oldest houses, dating from the mid-18th century. 11 AM

South Africans like to do outdoor activities in the mornings. Hiking up to Signal Hill (below) is a great way to let your food settle a f er breakfast. It o fers spectacular views of the city bowl as well as of Table Mountain and Lion’s Head. It is also from Signal Hill that they fire the daily Noon Gun, one of the oldest traditions in Cape Town. 1 PM

Harrington Street in Downtown Cape Town is a great choice for lunch, and two of my go-to places are just a block away from each other: Lekker Vegan and New York Bagles. Lekker has a buzzy vibe and really interesting vegan food. New York Bagels is tiny yet it’s so popular with locals as they have the freshest bagels with amazing fillings. My favourite is the salmon bagel (pictured) – it’s out of this world delicious!

You’d need a few days to try every beer on tap at Beerhouse

3 PM

After lunch, I like to walk around Harrington Street, stopping in at my favourite shops. I buy my groceries at Nude Foods (pictured), Cape Town’s first-ever plastic-free grocer. Everything looks good and is sold by weight. Another place I go is Love My Laundry: it’s a superb place with a little co fee shop inside, where you can relax and meet travellers while your clothes are washed, dried and folded. 5 PM

The V&A Waterfront is a great place for a late a f ernoon stroll. I like to check out the latest exhibition at the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, which is housed in a striking former grain silo (pictured). The Silo Hotel is above the museum and its roo f op bar is the place to grab a traditional sundowner cocktail. 9 PM

Long Street has great nightlife , especially for beer lovers like me. Beerhouse is a good place to start a bar-crawl as it has more than 20 beers on tap and 99 local and international bottled beers. Next door is Dubliner, an Irish pub with Guinness on tap and live music most evenings. Nights o f en end at Van Hunks in Kloof Street, a relaxed late-night restaurant and bar.

Lonely Planet has partnered with Intrepid Travel to launch Lonely Planet Experiences: more than 300 group tours (run by Intrepid, and its day-tour company Urban Adventures) with positive local impact and low environmental footprints.

DISTILLED

The Long Bar is a time capsule at the newly restored Raffles Hotel –all dark teak wood, reed ceiling fans and peanut shells on the floor (the last tradition goes against the grain in this spick-and-span city). It’s also the home of the Singapore sling: hotel lore says it was created in 1915 by barman Ngiam Tong Boon, though cocktail sleuths have found holes in this origin story. The likes of Somerset Maugham enjoyed simpler drinks known as ‘gin slings’, often sweetened with cherry brandy, soured with lime or spiked with Bénédictine. Though pineapple is a much-loved fruit in the region, its addition (indeed domination) owes more to the later tiki culture craze than colonial-era tastes.

INGREDIENTS

DRINK IT 30 ml gin 15 ml cherry liqueur (such as Heering) 7.5 ml Cointreau 7.5 ml Bénédictine

10 ml grenadine 120 ml pineapple juice 15 ml lime juice dash of Angostura bitters

METHOD

) Mix the ingredients in a cocktail

shaker filled with ice cubes. Shake well. Strain into a highball glass. Garnish with pineapple and a cocktail cherry. The Long Bar reopened in 2019 ith a refreshed Singapore sling ecipe that toned down some of its weetness. Also on the menu, the a f es 1915 gin sling does away with the pineapple entirely, and uses a gin created specially for the hotel by Sipsmith of London. Yes, the Long Bar is a bucket-list venue now, selling 1,000 slings a day, but their quality has never been higher (ra f es.com/singapore).

PHOTOGRAPH: RAFFLES HOTEL SINGAPORE ) Though plenty of mixologists might roll their eyes at it, Singapore acknowledges its ‘national drink’ with variations including those at the Ra f es’ younger competitor, The Fullerton Hotel. Among the cocktail’s bolder reimaginings is the ‘Robbery at the Museum’: a version with fermented pineapple and fizzy foam at the Smoke & Mirrors bar on the roof of the National Gallery (smokeandmirrors.com.sg).

FROM THE GIFT SHOP

V

Arguably the star

of the collections, Sir Henry Raeburn’s 1790s painting

The Skating Minister crops up in many guises in the gift shop, including a variety of leather bookmarks retouched in Pop Art colours. Fife-based designer Clare O’Neill creates a range of tweed clothes, bags and accessories, such as this coin purse that uses fabric handwoven at home by Harris islanders.

THE URBAN EDIT

Pay tribute to a city that has inspired writers from Robert Louis Stevenson to Ian Rankin with these made-in-Scotland leather-bound notebooks bearing a famous literary threat.

V

The Tunnock’s teacake,

invented in 1956, is the

basis for this poplar plywood decoration, screen printed at Glasgow’s East End Press.

Mary, Queen of Scots came to the throne in 1542 aged only six days –and though this rubber duck doesn’t really suggest it, she grew to 5’11”, very tall for that era.

Use your fingers instead of brooms

V

Scots have enjoyed

curling for at least 500 years, but if you don’t have a frozen pond to practise on, try this tabletop version that unfolds to 120cm long.

IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

WANDERINGS A day is enough to soak in some neighbourhood flavour. Cobble Hill and Boerum Hill are an easy detour a f er visiting Brooklyn Bridge Park; Court and Smith Sts act as a spine separating Cobble Hill (west) from Boerum Hill (east). It’s along these streets that you’ll discover myriad bars, from cocktail-shaking lounges to unpolished, cash-only dives. Just south in Carroll Gardens is a similar sprinkling of interesting shops and places to drink, complemented by some of the area’s best restaurants (with Italian cuisine as a standout star). Alternatively, take a bus from Downtown Brooklyn to Red Hook. Relatively cut o f thanks to a lack of subway access, Red Hook is still loaded with the rugged charms of its longshoreman days. Maritime history, well-established seafood restaurants and up-and-coming art spots can easily fill an a f ernoon. Add kayaking in sunny summer weather and you could pass a full day here, ideally ending with waterfront wine or a nautically themed drinking hole. 1. GET CREATIVE AT A GRASSROOTS GALLERY In a converted factory dating to 1863, the Invisible Dog is an arts centre that embodies the spirit of Brooklyn. There are frequent free exhibitions on the ground floor, where the unadorned warehouse backdrop makes art shows pop. Plays, film screenings and music performances (entry by donation) all add to the cultural appeal of this community-focused organisation. A f erwards, head over to Pioneer Works, which makes stunning use of a red-brick warehouse with wood-beamed ceilings. It hosts avant-garde temporary art exhibitions from confrontational cartoons to huge sculptures. There’s also an attractive garden to idle in. (theinvisibledog.org; pioneerworks.org) 2. EAT CRAB ON THE WATERFRONT Head to Brooklyn Crab, a casual, three-storey restaurant, to join diners hunkering over picnic tables to feast on steamed crabs, oysters, fried cod, peel-and-eat shrimp and other delights from the sea. With waterfront views, tender crustaceans and refreshing dra f s of Founders All Day IPA, it’s a great spot on a sunny day, particularly if you snag an outdoor table. (brooklyncrab.com) West Brooklyn, NYC WORDS: REGIS ST LOUIS, ROBERT BALKOVICH, RAY BARTLETT, ALI LEMER. PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDY ROMER, DERRICK ADAMS’S ON, PIONEER WORKS, 2016 W hile Brooklyn is no secret, there are parts that are more off the tourist trail. Heading west, Cobble Hill and Boerum Hill are light on sightseeing but brimming with home-style restaurants, disarmingly friendly bars and attractive 19th-century houses. Continue south for more dining and entertainment amid the brownstones of genteel Carroll Gardens and the old warehouses of Red Hook. West Brooklyn Jalopy The Invisible Dog

Clover Club FOB Red Hook Boaters Red Hook Sunny’s BUT TERMILK CHANNEL

An exhibition at Pioneer Works in Red Hook

3. DRINK NEW YORK WINE

Sip wines from across New York state in the tasting room of Red Hook Winery, lined with barrels and crowded with locals every weekend. The grapes are plucked from vineyards in the Finger Lakes and Long Island, but every drop is produced right here. The cabernet sauvignon and riesling taste even better with the waterside views. (redhookwinery.com)

4. LISTEN TO BLUEGRASS

THE URBAN EDIT

and Red Hook. It’s a fun, DIY kind of a fair where the beer’s cold and you can usually catch a bluegrass, country, klezmer or ukulele show. There are freebies like open-mic nights (Tuesdays) and old-school blues and folk at Roots ‘n’ Ruckus (Wednesdays). Casual music classes include folk lessons for kids. (jalopytheatre.org)

5. HAVE A COCKTAIL IN A CHART-TOPPING BAR

Cocktails are certainly shaken with aplomb at retro-elegant, unpretentious Clover Club, which frequently tops ‘world’s best’ lists. Converse over fabulous tiki drinks, libations infused with lavender and bell peppers, and £6 happy hour specials. Mocktails are given loving attention too, while bar food tends towards the nostalgic, such as devilled eggs. Weekend brunches come with excellent bloody marys and gin fizzes. (cloverclubny.com)

6. GO KAYAKING FOR FREE

Red Hook Boaters is a volunteerrun boathouse which o fers free kayaking in the small embayment o f Louis Valentino Jr Park (guests are asked to help with a beach clean-up a f erwards). Once in the water, you’ll have beautiful views of Lower Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty. Check ahead on the website for times. (redhookboaters.org)

7. MAKE LIKE A SEADOG

Surviving since the 1890s, Sunny’s cultivates a charming, nautical atmosphere, with everything but the barnacles. The longshoremen are long gone, but both regulars and newcomers come to play drunken sailor at the long bar and out in the yard. Foot-stomping bluegrass and other banjo-pickin’ events liven the place up. (sunnysredhook.com)

8. TRY BARBECUE FROM THE PHILIPPINES

Homestyle Filipino barbecue is lovingly prepared at FOB (meaning ‘fresh o f the boat’): beer-braised spare ribs, flounder grilled in banana leaf and sauce-drowned skewers of barbecued pork. It’s casual, but FOB also makes a trim date spot. (fobbrooklyn.com)

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COMPETITION

Skulls and marigolds are among the recurring symbols of Mexico’s Day of the Dead celebrations

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CONDITIONS OF ENTRY 1 The promoter of this competition is Immediate Media Company London Limited. 2 The prize includes two return economy flights from London to Mexico City, two spaces on the G Adventures six-day ‘Day of the Dead in Mexico City’ (trip code: CMDD) with accommodation, six meals, excursions and experiences (full details available online), tour transport and G Adventures tour guide. 3 Travel must be taken by 30 October 2020. The tour starts on 30 October 2020. No substitute. Winner will be booked on to a trip that already has four paying passengers booked. The tour is subject to availability. The prize is non-transferable and there is no cash alternative. 4 The prize does not include travel insurance, visas (if applicable), additional meals and refreshments, UK transfers, optional activities or spending money. 5 The winner must be at least 18 years old and hold a valid ten-year passport, with six months or more remaining a fer return to the UK. 6 For full terms and conditions, visit lonelyplanet.com/magazine/competitions.

) Two places on G Adventures’ six-day ‘Day of the Dead in Mexico City’ tour, guided by G Adventures’ Chief Experience O f cer, with five nights’ hotel accommodation and a variety of excursions included

HOW TO ENTER To be in with a chance of winning, fill in your details online at the address below. Competition closes at 11.59pm on Sunday 12 April 2020 lonelyplanet.com/ magazine/competitions