LNE September 2018

LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals September 2018

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Cleanse

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FROM THE

EDITOR

Bio-Therapeutic

TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED

SKIN CARE

Clients today have more access to potent active ingredients at home than ever before. And while these products may help them achieve some results, nothing compares to the professional level treatments we are trained to provide as estheticians. And there remains still one professional treatment that clients request time and time again: chemical peels.

Chemical peels will always be a staple in every esthetician’s arsenal. Thankfully, acid formulations have come a long way since the first phenol-derived peels were used in the late 19th century. Acids today are derived from a host of natural ingredients, such as flower and fruit acids. Couture peels are crafted with precise acid combinations to target multiple concerns with minimal downtime. With so many innovations, it’s our job to stay current on this old-school treatment.

Our September Peels Guide is a must-read if you are serious about chemical exfoliation. Our Peels

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Photo Feature also makes a great shopping guide!

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See our featured peels this month in Long Beach at The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa on September 23rd and 24th. I’ll be there, and I can’t wait to point out my personal favorites from this month’s issue!

Hope to see you there,

bio-therapeutic.com

Cristina Beecham Managing Editor

mcristina@LNEonline.com September2018

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September volume 33 number 9

contents 52

Custom Peel Blends

18 Troubleshooting Retinol

56

Superficial vs. Deep Peels

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Know Your Levels

70

Peels Photo Feature

24 Skin News

spa

14 Bioavailability

guide

14 Bioavailability

51 Peels Guide

28

L’Escape Spa

76

Metaphysics Meets Esthetics

32

Getting Salty

82

A Sea of Seals

36

Spa News

89

Organic & Wellness News

o&w

skin

6 From the Editor 98 Advertiser Index

32 Getting Salty Behind The Spa Door with Nerida Joy 40

What Money Can’t Buy

48

Tradeshow Talk

50

Business News

40 What Money Can’t Buy

image

business

38

76 Metaphysics Meets Esthetics 90

Fall Makeup Trends

96

Image News

90 Fall Makeup Trends

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

C ontributors Cathi Bates Cristina Beecham Donna Spencer Dr. Steven Wang

V I S I T

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BIOAVAILABILITY 14

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The science of how skin absorbs topical ingredients

by Michael Pugliese

In 1984, the term cosmeceutical was introduced by Dr. Albert Kligman, developer of Retin-ATM, to distinguish those topical preparations that could effectively deliver therapeutic benefits to the skin, as well as the “beautifying� temporary effects of cosmetics, as defined by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 1938. A prescription ointment, Retin-A effectively delivered retinoic acid, a powerful form of vitamin A, into the skin. The success of Retin-A triggered a frenzy of research to formulate functional raw materials into elegant compounds that would not require a prescription. In choosing to include an active ingredient in a formulation, a critical evaluation is required by researchers to determine what quantity of that material was actually utilized by the body. The word for this is bioavailability.

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skin Bioavailability

Let us remember the most significant role the skin plays—it is a vigilant gatekeeper! It keeps what is outside the body out, and what is inside the body from falling or leaking out. The skin is brilliantly designed with intricate backup systems, always on alert. The selective permeability of skin is well-known, serving as a dynamic barrier, while constantly monitoring for incoming toxins and pathogens. So, getting a sufficient quantity of useful elements to a point where they can do any good can become quite a challenge for the skin care formulator.

The first thing is to find out how much of an active component is needed, and we call that the effective dose.

Then we have to get it into an elegant product. How do we get it in there?

The artistry of cosmetic chemistry has grown as the activity of superior new materials is unfolding in the cosmetic supply realm. Once an effective dose has been established, useful agents are best delivered to the skin, in some cases by adjusting the type of formulation from which the actives will be delivered. Cosmetic chemists call this the vehicle, or carrier. For example, if two things ordinarily will not work well together, the chemist may opt for a more sophisticated type of mixing.

Arbutin and kojic acid are naturally occurring whitening agents. The stability of these compounds is higher in an oil-in-water micro emulsion, and therefore the potential for reaching targeted cells is increased. Another popular carrier system uses liposomes, which encapsulate water and lipid-soluble active components, acting as vehicles to deliver actives to the epidermis and dermis. But in skin care, not everything is meant to penetrate rapidly. Emollients, which protect against water loss, are intended to stay on the outermost skin layers to keep the skin soft and supple.

With new technologies, an additional beneficial action may later be effected in the lower layers, by adding another active material to the moisturizer.

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THE SCIENCE OF BIOAVAILABILITY Bioavailability is a term used by several branches of scientific study to describe the way compounds are absorbed by humans and other animals. The information on this topic is highly technical and vast.

For the practice of esthetics, it is not necessary to understand all of the science, but one should be familiar with related terms that fall under the topic of bioavailability in the literature. The research on the bioavailability of nutrient compounds, like vitamins, was initiated by the makers of topical drugs and ingestible supplements. In skin care, pioneers like Dr. Kligman contributed volumes on the topic of retinoids. Peter T. Pugliese, M.D., author of Advanced Professional Skin Care, Medical Edition, conducted penetration studies of topical agents, discovering that vitamin E as an antioxidant was an effective defense component in skin cancer prevention. In this groundbreaking study, he stained the test product with a fluorescent dye called dansyl chloride, and covered it with a patch for 24 hr. When subjects returned, the area was stripped by us-

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ing a piece of ordinary cellophane tape, which removed approximately one cell layer at a time, done 20 times in the same spot. At the “glistening layer,� photos were taken under ultraviolet light to show the presence of the vitamin E, which had penetrated to 20 cell layers. That is the exact area where an antioxidant can do the most good to protect against UV-induced free radical damage.

BIOAVAILABILITY OF VITAMINS: ORAL VS. TOPICAL In pharmacology, bioavailability is a subcategory of absorption. When a medication is administered intravenously, its bioavailability is essentially 100 percent. However, when a medication is administered via other routes, such as topically, orally or through inhalation, its bioavailability generally decreases.

Bioavailability is defined slightly differently for drugs as opposed to dietary supplements and cosmetics, primarily due to the method of delivery and the FDA regulations. Bioaccessibility is a concept related to bioavailability, used mostly in the context of biodegradation and environmental pollution, like

skin Bioavailability

second-hand smoke. Inhalant therapies are often life saving, with fewer side effects for many common ailments.

A conflict regarding the aerosol application of physical sunscreens, also regulated as FDA drugs, has caused much controversy in recent years, with respect to inhalation of micro-particles and their absorption rates. Arguments on both sides of this debate are still creating valid data to support their respective views. It is documented that product penetration and subsequent bioavailability can be enhanced by combining multiple agents. Consider the treatment for acne, where multiple etiologies contribute to the condition.

The use of exfoliating ingredients, including salicylic acid, can be enhanced effectively with niacinamide, also known for its anti-inflammatory properties, to reduce the degree of hyperpigmentation. Higher penetration of active ingredients presupposes enhanced bioavailability, but this is not always true.

NUTRIENTS INSIDE AND OUTSIDE The use of functional foods and oral supplements for improving skin condi-

tion allows a synergistic and complementary bioavailability when the same vitamins are applied topically. Whereas very little vitamin C makes it into the skin through oral ingestion, when applied topically, higher bioavailability to the skin is ensured. Because of the instant delivery to a target site, topical applications of vitamin C can be given at up to 1,000 times less concentration than an effective oral dose. In calculating the effective dose concentration of many active ingredients, the limitations of the delivery systems must be considered. As aloe products remain popular among supplement and cosmetic manufacturers, the botanical has attracted additional industry attention through a recent study by the National Toxicology Program (NTP).

The research raised safety concerns regarding carcinogenic effects from an aloe vera whole leaf extract.

Promptly, however, the industry immediately fought back and defended the ingredient by pointing out that the type of aloe presented in the study is hardly used in finished goods, so consumers should not be deceived by the misleading research. Several

other studies surfaced shortly after the release of the NTP’s research, which helped to separate fact from fiction and reiterate aloe’s safety. You must always consider the source and verify any alarming research that is suddenly presented in the media.

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists provides current and often free access to the latest research papers, clinical studies, references for new ingredients and their activity in skin care formulations. Peers share information on using engineered technologies for enhanced penetration of unstable agents.

Technical advances in cosmetic chemistry are increasing the bioavailability, and thus the performance, of beneficial ingredients when applied to the skin’s surface. Bioavailability is a concept that the skin care specialist should understand, at least in terms of penetration, absorption and effective dose concentrations of actives in topical products.

References 1. Vleugels R. A. (2008). Cosmeceuticals: From Topical Antioxidants to Peptides.

The Dermatology Report, 2. Retrieved from http://www.thedermatologyrport. com/derm derm020140.html 2. Herkenne C., Alberti I., Naik A., Kalia Y. N., Mathy F., Préat V., & Guy R. H. (2008) In Vivo Methods for the Assessment of Topical Drug Bioavailability.

Pharmaceutical Research, Pharm Res., 25, 87–103. doi: 10.1007/s11095-007-9429-7 3. Myriam M., Sabatier M., Steiling H., & Williamson G. (2007). Skin bioavailability of dietary vitamin E, carotenoids, polyphenols, vitamin C, zinc and selenium.

The Nutrition Society, 96, 227-238. doi: 10.1079/BJN20061817 Michael Q. Pugliese

Michael Q. Pugliese is the CEO of Circadia by Dr. Pugliese and the Circadia Institute of Advanced Esthetics. Pugliese and his grandfather, Peter T. Pugliese, M.D., hold in-depth classes on a variety of subjects, including cosmetic chemistry and histology of the skin. Pugliese is a licensed esthetician in the state of Pennsylvania, and holds a degree in business management and marketing from Kutztown University.

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TROUBLESHOOTING

RETINOL

Common side effects and how to enhance your client’s retinol experience

by Dr. Steven Wang Retinol is one of the best anti aging ingredients used in skin care. It is a powerful antioxidant, and is very effective at boosting collagen production, evening out pigmentation, and fading dark spots. It is also effective at treating acne and other breakouts.

Despite all the associated skin benefits, not everyone can use retinol or other retinol derivatives. Many clients complain about how products with retinol turn their face red, flaky, and itchy.

Let’s discuss why retinol causes these common side effects. More importantly, we will outline seven easy ways to prevent and reduce these side effects for your clients.

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skin Troubleshooting Retinol SEVEN COMMON SIDE EFFECTS ASSOCIATED WITH RETINOL Retinol is one of the most trusted ingredients that can deliver reliable benefits to improve signs of aging. When using it appropriately in a well thought out skin care routine, it can definitely help to reverse signs of aging. Of course, like other potent ingredients, there are side effects.

3. SENSITIVITY TO SUN As a rule of thumb, retinol has a high tendency to make skin more sensitive to solar radiation.

As mentioned above, retinol sheds the top layer of skin cells and removes the protective barrier. This will induce

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1. DRY SKIN Retinol can dry out the skin, especially in the winter. Retinol helps to accelerate the turn over of skin cells and leads to rapid shedding of the top layer of the skin cells.

When this happens, the skin barrier becomes impaired. A healthy skin barrier is needed to prevent excessive water loss from the deeper layer of the skin cells. Increased water loss would dry out the skin.

2. PIMPLES Although retinol is useful to fight acne, some clients can get more breakouts when they first start using retinol.

Clients with prior history of acne should be aware of this potential problem.

If your client experiences a breakout when they first start to use a retinol product, encourage them to not abandon the product right away. Educate them on the benefits, and encourage them to consider continuing the products for a few more weeks, and see if there is any improvement.

Clients should discontinue use only if there are no improvements or worsening of conditions.

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a more phototoxic reaction, causing the skin to turn more red and irritated after each sun exposure.

In general, it is best to use a skin care product with retinol at night. This can prevent any potential sun sensitivity. Lastly, remind your clients to wear sunscreen daily for protection.

4. REDNESS Increased redness is a common experience for many clients who use retinol product in the beginning.

It is not clear exactly why skin turns red. It is hypothesized that retinol causes an increase in shedding of the top layer of skin, and a slow break down of the skin barrier, which can trigger an underlying inflammation in the skin.

Turning red is one of the signs that your skin is inflamed.

Clients with sensitive skin are more likely to get inflammation and redness when they first start using retinol.

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skin Troubleshooting Retinol

5. ITCHY SKIN Shedding of the cells at the outer layer of the skin leads to inflammation and dryness, which can make clients feel itchy on the face and neck, common areas where they may use retinol.

6. SKIN TIGHTNESS Their skin may also feel tight. It is another common side effect. The sensation of tightness should not be interpreted as the client’s wrinkles disappearing. In contrast, it only means that their skin is super dry.

7. OTHER SERIOUS ISSUES There may be more severe issues, including severe itching, redness, burning sensation, and irritation. If you feel like something is not normal, instruct your client to wash off the product.

Lastly remember, just because a client cannot tolerate one product with retinol, it does not mean you can never recommend any products with retinol.

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This can be done in two ways:

increase the amount of products after one to two months of usage.

Second, they can start using the product every two to three nights. If the client is able to tolerate the product, you can gradually increase the frequency of application, such as using it every other night and eventually every night.

You are the judge. If you are seeing positive results with no or minimal side effects, then increase the dosage amount and frequency of application.

You can adjust the pace and amount as you see fit.

The goal of this titration process is to get the skin to tolerate retinol.

This is the best way for any esthetician who wants their client to use a retinol product, but does not want all the redness, irritation, flaking of the skin. (Yes, it is pretty amazing that the skin has the ability to build up the tolerance and respond to different drugs and chemicals.)

Consider holding off any exfoliating treatments until you know the client’s skin has become fully adjusted to the retinol.

First, use a small amount of the product. For example, you can start your client out using a small pea-sized of product per each application. Gradually

3. USING IT NO MORE THAN ONCE A DAY Do not let clients fall into the trap of overusing any retinol products. It is a

7 WAYS TO PREVENT RETINOL ASSOCIATED SIDE EFFECTS 1. CLEANSE APPROPRIATELY Always cleanse the areas thoroughly where you are planning to use retinol on your client. It is recommended to use a gentle cleanser and lukewarm water only.

Do not use harsh soaps or cleansers that can further dry out the skin. Lastly, avoid using any mechanical device to scrub or exfoliate the skin.

2. START GRADUALLY When you are introducing a client to retinol for the first time, try to titrate the dosage slowly.

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skin Troubleshooting Retinol 4. DO NOT FORGET YOUR FRIEND, THE SUNSCREEN! Sunscreen is essential. Daily use of sunscreen can prevent and reverse signs of aging. In this case, retinol can increase sun sensitivity. Clients will need more protection than ever.

Instruct your client to be patient, and let their skin adjust.

5. WATCH OUT FOR THE EYE AREAS Many clients want to get rid of the fine lines around the eyes. But watch out, eyelid skin is much thinner than other parts of the face and body. Eyelid skin can be more sensitive.

If you instruct your client to use the retinol product around the eyes, they should use a smaller amount of product and avoid applying it too close to the eyes.

common mistake to believe that increased dosage and frequency can speed up the process to make you look younger.

It may expedite the process of removing the wrinkles, but the truth is it can definitely lead to more redness, inflammation, flaking, and shedding.

So instruct your client to be patient, and let their skin adjust. Remember, it is better to take your time.

6. TEST IT BEFORE USING It is important to perform a patch test on a small area of the arm before applying the retinol all over the face and other body parts.

The idea is simple. You want to make

sure the client does not have an allergy or sensitivities to the product before sending them home with it.

7. DAILY HOMECARE REGIMEN Consider adding serum or moisturizer to the client’s home regimen to replenish the necessary level of hydration and oil back into the skin. This will help to mitigate the problem of dryness and skin flaking. You can also apply a soothing mask every week to replenish the client’s skin.

Dr. Steven Wang is the Director of Dermatology and Dermatologic Surgery at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center at Basking Ridge New Jersey. In 2016, he cofounded the Dr. Wang Herbal Skincare Company with his father, a licensed acupuncturist and herbalist in NYC. Their philosophy is to combine the best of herbal Eastern tradition with Western science to help consumers and patients to attain a healthier and beautiful skin.

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MOISTURE TO THE RESCUE!

Le Mieux’s Moisture Rescue Peel-Off Mask breathes life into stressed, post-procedure skin with an oxygenating blanket of moisture. The hybrid synergy of powder + gel morphs into a skin-perfecting mask to instantly relieve irritation, stinging, and redness. Skin-loving ANK (Ascophyllum Nodosum Kelp), red algae, and blue-green algae extracts from the pristine waters of the Brittany Coast immerse skin in waves of revitalizing hydration.

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THE LATEST IN ENZYMES

Skin Script’s Ginger Enzyme contains two percent salicylic and two percent mandelic acids to refine pores and brighten/exfoliate the skin.

Ginger, marbleberry, cinnamon, and clove are anti-inflammatory and antioxidants; they will stimulate microcirculation and create a warming sensation.

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SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

THE NEWEST ADDITION…

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MAD FOR PEELS!

Designed to be layered to address multiple skin concerns in one treatment, PRO M.A.D. Skincare Peels enable you to customize each peel for your client - it's beautiful skin by design. The 11 peels range from mild to medium depth, including a Jessner Peel and Multi-C/Retinol Peel.

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LONG BEACH, CA Sept 23 & 24, 2018 Long Beach Convention Center The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals.

Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice.

Business • Wellness • Mindfulness • Retail • Makeup Trends Marketing • Social Media • Workshops • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities

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L’ESCAPE 28

SPA

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Burlingame, CA

A FORWARD-THINKING SPA WHERE WELLNESS MEETS HIGH-TECH SKIN CARE

SPA OF THE MONTH

by Cristina Beecham

Nestled in downtown Burlingame, California, L’Escape Spa offers a personal and intimate setting where clients are pampered with attentive caring, state of the art products and services.

Well known for their custom tailored microcurrent treatments, L’Escape Spa provides optimal results from skin rejuvenation to many healing and holistic wellness solutions. Spa Owner and Director, Jennifer Pham, is an industry veteran with a passion for healing people, making new clients friends, and running her business. After 25 years in the business, Jennifer has grown L’Escape Spa into a pillar of her community with a range of offerings for her clients. Take a journey through L’Escape Spa’s holistic, caring atmosphere through the lens of its forwardthinking owner:

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SIGNATURE TREATMENT At L’Escape Spa, microcurrent is the star treatment. Spa Owner Jennifer Pham describes their Electro Microcurrent Facial (60 or 90 minutes, $195-$225) as a unique combination therapy: “Our Microcurrent Facial in combination with our proprietary skin care products produces immediately recognizable improvements in skin tone, tightness and appearance. Our procedure is finetuned to work with delicate facial and neck muscles, dramatically improving soft tissue, muscle tone, skin elasticity, wrinkles, post-surgical recovery and scarring. This non-invasive and pain free procedure is administered through the use of small probes applied to the skin's surface. The probes are moved over the target areas in conjunction with the application of various proprietary massage techniques and special, optimizing skin care products.”

Jennifer goes on to explain the many benefits of the treatment: “More specifically, the body’s cells naturally produce micro-electrical charges. When the body or specific tissue is injured or as skin ages, these micro-currents are disrupted, limiting blood flow, diminishing tissue energy and reducing the body’s ability to heal and rejuvenate.

The device we use detects these micro30

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current anomalies and is programmed to deliver corrective microcurrent pulses to the cells to remediate their specific condition. Once restored to a normal level of charge, appropriate ion exchange in the cells is re-established. This increases ATP production, nutrient intake and the expulsion of built-up waste products/toxins, which rapidly results in tissue regeneration/ rejuvenation.”

More than just a targeted therapy, Jennifer aims to infuse wellness in every treatment. She describes, “Clients experience relaxation, released tension and a boost of post-treatment energy.”

MARKETING Good news spreads quickly. And this is no different for word of mouth marketing. The majority of new clients at L’Escape Spa are attracted via client referrals and word of mouth. As for keeping clients coming back, Jennifer says, “generally the results of my Microcurrent Facial speaks for themself and people return with stories about how their friends asked them what they are doing to look so good and if they’ve had cosmetic surgery because of the

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rapid transformation they see!"

Of course, Facebook and Instagram play a role in the spa’s marketing strategy. Jennifer explains that social media posts are a focus for the spa, and they “trend between upwards of 60,000 and 70,000 followers.” L’Escape Spa often posts before and after photos and health related articles and educational videos on their Facebook page. Jennifer often takes to Instagram to showcase featured products and treatments.

TRAINING With the high volume of microcurrent treatments performed at L’Escape Spa, consistency is important through all the spa’s estheticians and service providers. Jennifer is strict on “only hiring certified professionals” and takes pride in the quality of her staff. When training a new hire, Jennifer explains, “For L’Escape Spa specifics, they are given an orientation as to the services the spa provides, trained in the vision, mission, operating principles and customer expectations. As for meeting frequency, we are constantly communicating throughout the day so formal

community and remind clients that your spa is an active member of the small business economy in your area.

L’Escape Spa employs this strategy often. Jennifer explains, “We often broker referral arrangements with local hotels and merchants. This is done with a personal touch. As the owner, I visit the hotels and merchants, often with cookies for the staff and/or some products as gifts, gift certificates and then ask them to refer their customers should they be seeking spa services.

This has been very effective.”

Clientele Ratio: 85 percent female, 15 percent male; 85 percent local, 15 percent non-local Staff to Guest Ratio: 1:1 Amenities: three treatment rooms; several retreat and relaxation areas Spa Composition: 70 percent facials; 15 percent massage; 15 percent retail

REVENUE & RETAIL meetings are generally not necessary.”

Once the staff is well-oriented and trained, maintaining a high level of service requires regular check-ins and performance reviews with the staff. Jennifer sees every moment as an opportunity for review and training. She says, “Review of performance happens on a real-time basis. It’s more like personal coaching.” This “real-time” method allows for more flow and dialogue between spa director and service provider, rather than one formal, sit-down meeting.

To keep her staff incentivized, Jennifer offers frequent rewards, such as spot bonuses, free products and team dinners.

SPECIAL EVENTS & PROMOTIONS Giving back to your community is what makes any day spa a pillar of that community. This can be done through special events, local promotions, and holiday parties. At L’Escape Spa, Jennifer hosts several parties throughout the year for various large and small occasions: “We hold numerous special events throughout the year: holiday parties, product launches, client appreciation parties, etc. These are all custom planned events and are different each time. We generally plan and promote these a month or so ahead of the event.”

Partnering with local vendors is another great way to support your

As a veteran of the esthetics community, Spa Director Jennifer Pham is often sought after to try new product launches and retail products. She says, “I am very well connected with many industry-leading aesthetic companies and often get to trial “first to launch” products. I regularly attend trade shows looking for new ideas and highly effective products and innovative treatments. I also regularly review print and online sources for the best of what’s new and for high-value products and approaches.”

L’Escape Spa hosts occasional promotions for retail products, which help to attract new clients and immerse them into the L’Escape Spa experience.

Jennifer adds, “We offer periodic discount promotions. Occasionally, I offer introductory discounts to new clients. I also provide clients with sample products that they can try.” This effective and immersive strategy allows L’Escape Spa to bring in 15 percent of their revenue from retail sales alone.

Spa Director Spotlight: Jennifer's life mission is to share her knowledge of keeping skin healthy. Upon discovering microcurrent, Jennifer reinvented herself as an esthetician and has never looked back since. After helping so many people improve their health and their lives, body and spirit, Jennifer has learned that our bodies and minds are amazing and complex, and that a healthy lifestyle is the key to a healthier life and a Powerful Youth.

Rundown L’Escape Spa 347 California Drive Burlingame, CA 94010 650.347.7706

Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that es-

Owner/Director: Jennifer Q. Pham

theticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com

LNEonline.com

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GETTING

SALTY

The history of Halotherapy and its many benefits

by Aurora Solis 32

September2018

LNEonline.com

Just as any trend comes back in style every decade or so, salt therapy is making its way to the top of the list of current spa therapy trends. From dedicated salt chambers to smaller salt rooms, or warming salt lamps inside the treatment room, spas around the world are making a conscious effort to include halotherapy into their guest experience in any way possible. Invite your clients to experience the many benefits of participating in this trend.

Let's explore what halotherapy is, how it works, and how you can include it in ways large and small in your treatment rooms today.

WHAT IS HALOTHERAPY? Salt therapy, also known as halotherapy, is a non-invasive treatment that alleviates the health problems associated with asthma, sinusitis, allergies, and other respiratory related illnesses.

This therapy dates back longer than you might think. In 1843, a Polish doctor named Feliks Boczkowski first discovered the effects of salt on mine workers. Dr. Boczkowski noticed that salt mine workers did not experience the same respiratory issues or lung diseases that other miners did. Almost a century later, a German doctor noticed that the health of his patients improved after hiding in salt caves during the Second World War. The news of halotherapy benefits spread quickly across Eastern Europe, where you can now find many giant salt rooms from the early days of halotherapy.

In the 1980's, artificial salt caves were developed by lining rooms with salt bricks or blocks. The study of these rooms' effects proved that lining walls with salt bricks did not replicate the same health benefits. Scientists came to the conclusion that the main therapeutic factor of the salt cave was dry aerosol salt in stable humidity and air temperature. A decade later, halo generators were developed and are now the gold stand of halotherapy.

HOW DOES HALOTHERAPY WORK? The mechanism of action of salt therapy is the dry aerosol salt, with particles between one to five microns, and a negative electrical charge. Halo generators blow the dry aerosol salt into the room, where the walls and floors are also covered with salt bricks. The salt room provides a negative ion environment, which contributes to the feeling of well-being and promotes reduced stress levels. The salt particles generated by the halo generator are inhaled, helping to reduce inflammation in the airways, open constricted airways, and increase the clearance of mucus.

WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS? Asthma, sinusitis, bronchitis, ear infection, allergies, sore throat, nasal congestion and runny nose are all condition that may benefit from salt therapy.

Halotherapy is great for gently improving the side effects of chronic respiratory conditions with regular treatment.

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spa Getting Salty

Perhaps the best part of halotherapy is that it is an overall beneficial, harmless experience. Halotherapy is a perfect combination treatment to support the effects of other proven treatments, and is great for children, as well.

TREATMENT EXPERIENCE

In addition to the respiratory benefits, halotherapy can also help with topical skin conditions, such as eczema, psoriasis, and acne. Halotherapy also has a host of wellness-boosting side effects, such as reduced stress and feelings of wellbeing.

A typical salt therapy session lasts for 45 minutes. Clients and spa guests are asked to remove their shoes, and hair covers are often used. When experiencing salt therapy in a salt room with halogenerators and salt bricks, the therapy involves sitting in the room in a lounge chair. These chairs are often made of salt bricks themselves, allowing for a totally immersive halotherapy experience. Many spas dim the lighting and introduce soft, relaxing music to enhance the overall stress-reducing benefits. The room is kept to a comfortable, yet stable level of humidity and temperature.

Salt therapy may product slight skin irritation in some guests, but will disappear after a few sessions. Others experience a mild salty taste on their lips, similar to being by the ocean. As the body begins its natural process of detoxification, guests may experience a runny nose or other signs of toxin elimination.

When aiming to improve a targeted condition, halotherapy is best as a course of 12 to 15 treatments within a four to eight week period. Some guests may experience improvement after a single session, but just as with skin care, the best results will be seen over time with consistent treatment.

INCORPORATE SALT THERAPY TODAY

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While building a grand halotherapy chamber is a dream for any spa owner, a limitation on space and budget may not always allow for a dedicated salt room. Here are a few ways to include salt therapy with little cost and commitment, while maintaining the integrity of the benefits:

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• portable salt booth • salt bed as a treatment table • salt air purifier • Himalayan salt lamps • salt rocks as healing facial stones

CONTRAINDICATIONS Treatment should be avoided during the acute phase of any illness, including the following: infections accompanied by fever, acute active tuberculosis, cardiac insufficiency, COPD in the third stage, bleeding, spitting of blood, alcohol or drug intoxication, unstable or uncontrolled hypertension, and acute stages of respiratory diseases. Clients who are pregnant should consult their primary caregiver before experiencing any spa therapy treatment.

September2018

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THE TRUSTED NAME IN SKINCARE

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September2018 35 BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC Toll Free: 888.200.3977 LNEonline.com www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com

SHINE A LIGHT ON WELLNESS

Experience wellness in a new light with LightStim LED Bed — a natural and non-invasive treatment that promotes total body wellness and peak physiological function. Using LightStim MultiWave® Patented Technology, the LED Bed is FDA cleared to treat and relieve muscle, joint, and arthritic pain, as well as increase local blood circulation. Change The Way You Live. Experience Wellness.

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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

HYALURONIC FOR THE HANDS

The KFM LED Magnifier from Equipro is equipped with a dimmable LED light intensity control with a LED life expectancy of 50,000 hours. This LED technology will guaranty that your light will never get hot. The arm movement has been tested over 140,000 cycles and the neck movement over 300,000 cycles to make sure it stays stable during your professional treatments. The KFM Magnifier can reach up to 49 inches to the center of the lens. In addition, this lamp is designed to fit any Equipro auxiliary table or bracket.

Hands are exposed to skin-damaging pollution and environmental aggressors daily. Deep Hydration Hand Cream from Agera Labs is a lightweight, fast-absorbing hand moisturizer developed to repair, protect and rejuvenate your skin. This silky, smooth formula is enriched with a proprietary combination of three types of Hyaluronic Acid, a naturally-occurring component in the skin that attracts and binds water but diminishes with age.

It is a powerful hydrator that effectively restores skin’s youthful qualities and will help keep your hands soft and smooth.

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A CLEARER IMAGE

The Optic|Slim is the newest revolution in esthetic imaging, providing a high definition skin analysis of a client's face to determine certain underlying skin conditions ranging from pores, wrinkles, oil & sebum levels, sun spots, moisture, pigmentation, and UV damage. With a percentile scoring system, a client can rank their skin score against other individuals of the same demographic!

310.272.5824 opticslim.com

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BOLDER

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AFTER

Behind

The Spa Door with Nerida

Joy, , Beverly Hills, CA

CONCEPT How can you define the concept of your spa?

Tucked away amidst lush grounds, towering palms and stone walkways, the Hotel Bel-Air Spa is the centerpiece of our legendary resort’s peaceful setting and comprehensive wellness program. This secluded sanctuary is an extension of the property’s natural calming environment, which organically instills a sense of balance and serenity. Inspired wellness touchpoints weaved throughout every aspect of the guest stay create an all-encompassing and enriched mind, body and spirit experience.

The spa embraces advanced technology, natural luxurious ingredients and internationally-inspired wellness rituals to provide a range of exceptional treatments. Our exclusive menu draws inspiration from our historic roots as we pay tribute to a time of effortless elegance and iconic Hollywood glamor.

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What are the most popular treatments?

Our Hydration Ritual Facial is very popular, especially in the summer months, as it quickly rehydrates your skin to help restore radiance, while plumping and smoothing out fine lines for a more youthful glow.

Our Rose Renewal Body Treatment is also one of the most popular treatments. This relaxing ritual begins with the uplifting scent of rose, jasmine, ylang ylang and rosehip, to deeply soothe both mind and body. An exfoliating body scrub infused with honey and rose petals reveals smoother skin and is followed by a deeply nourishing massage.

FACILITY How many treatment rooms and other amenities are there?

Where are they located?

Our spa features seven treatment rooms, a private nail suite housing three manicure/pedicure stations, and a Relaxation Lounge. The jewel of Hotel-Bel Air Spa is The Enclave, a 570+ square foot sprawling private suite, which includes a shower, bathtub and shaded patio with soothing waterfall and outdoor seating. Perfect for couples or groups of up to 10 people, The Enclave is ideal for those who wish to luxuriate in privacy and treat themselves to the ultimate in pampering

ful feeling to work at your best on a daily basis, enhancing people’s daily life experiences.

you next and why, you will have a loyal consistent client.

TIPS FOR SPA LEADERS How do you manage stress that work brings into your life?

I really love my work and do not find it itself stressful. Balancing time with my family and my love for my work is my challenge.

What takes most of your time every day?

I spend a lot of my day answering questions about caring for the skin. Either with my clients in facial treatments, on the phone, email, texting product application and/or skin concerns. Or, their is my YouTube channel or Instagram.

Trying to help people with their skin is very important to me.

EXCEPTIONAL CLIENT CARE How do you keep clients loyal and consistent?

Clients come to see me to help them with their skin and it is a priority for me to get their skin at its absolute best in the shortest possible time. I really love working with the skin and helping people obtain their optimal best skin. If you are honest and caring with your clients, recommend home care and recommend when they should see

What are the most important lessons you have learned from failures or challenges that you can share with others in your career path?

You must recommend products for home care as a continuation from the facial treatment you have provided for them on your table. I used to worry that maybe they could not afford to buy the products and therefore, I held back, when in actual fact, I was doing them a dis-service. If you as the professional are not selling them their prescribed home care regimen, they will go somewhere else.

What advice could you give to someone who would like to manage a spa?

I feel to be a good spa manager, it’s important to be on the floor with your spa team. Be at the front desk, back areas supporting the team. And, be a good listener. Therapists (facial, massage or nail techs) are often sensitive, emotional people that like to feel they are being heard and acknowledged. A strong team will work in harmony for the spa business and clientele.

LEADERSHIP ROLE What daily challenges do you encounter in your position?

With less then fifty five-star spas in the world, and being fortunate enough to work in one of them, definitely keeps you on your toes for excellence across the board. A five-star experience starts from the moment the client walks through the front door. It is a wonder-

LNEonline.com

September2018

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WHAT

MONEY CAN’T BUY

Three things your clients need that you aren’t selling

by Tanis Rhines Why is it that sometimes when our clients ask us, “What can I buy that is going to help me best achieve my skin goals?” the truthful answer is not sitting on our shelf? When we know that their issue is systemic, selling them a topical would be like offering an aspirin to a friend to cure a broken leg. Sometimes, we need to accept the responsibility to “go deep” and offer some free, yet invaluable advice that will help our clients address the root of their skin care challenge. Being truthful also helps to build trust and a happy loyal customer is priceless. So, here are three indispensable items we should “sell” our clients on for clear, healthy, youthful, skin!

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business What Money Can’t Buy

SWEAT acid mantle creating a more acidic environment making it more difficult for P. acnes to grow compared to the other bacteria on the skin.[1,2] P. acnes being the main bacterial beastie for creating zits and the like. But wait, there’s more. Dermcidin, an antimicrobial protein that prevents the proliferation of P. acnes, is commonly found – guess where – yup, in human sweat!

Dermcidin reduces this bad bacteria’s ability to create RNA and proteins necessary for survival.[3,4] Sweat also washes out all that clogged up debris hanging out in pores. While simultaneously warming the skin, it allows excess oil to be flushed out when it is still in the liquid state. Recommend that if your client has not broken a heavy sweat in a few

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #219 on reader service card

Many know the benefits of exercise.

Human growth hormone, HGH, (otherwise known as the “fountain of youth”) does not come in a cream or serum but rather from being in the gym. A vigorous 20 minute workout can increase HGH production up to 771 percent leading to benefits including but not limited to increased hair growth, skin repair, stronger bones, and increased collagen production! Accompanying a great workout is another great skin solution - perspiration. Sweating helps to boost the immune system, flush out excess salt, reduce the chance of kidney stones, and keeps you from overheating. Sweat helps us get rid of junk in our body.

A drop in the skin’s pH observed with sauna could strengthen the skin’s

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months and they have not been extracted by a licensed esthetician in a while, start with the extractions. Those big old plugs of oxidized, solidified oil, salt and dirt are like giant boulders that need to be removed from the stream before the river runs through it.

SUGAR As estheticians, we may have heard the phrase “no grease, no dairy, no sugar” to guarantee a clear glowing complexion. Although grease and dairy may not be healthy for our bodies for a myriad of reasons, there is no consistent strong scientific evidence that they lead to breakouts. Sugar on the other hand, can be disastrous. When asking

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business What Money Can’t Buy

Too much sugar equals inflammation... your client about their sugar intake, explain to them that “sugar” creates an insulin response and includes not just delectable desserts, but also bread, tortillas, rice, crackers, pasta, fruit, many sauces including BBQ, salad dressings, ketchup and possibly even their morning cup of java. A lot of clients will then realize that their diets are packed with high glycemic fare and admit that their consumption is quite lofty.

So what’s the bother? Too much sugar equals inflammation, oxidative stress, can feed cancer cells, increase hormones, and erupt skin. Our noshes can damage DNA and collagen creating fine lines, wrinkles and an aged appearance. Plus, according to a 2014 study in The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, refined carbs are the main culprit in the rise of adult acne cases![6] Loren Cordain, a professor of health and exercise science at Colorado State University in Fort Collins studied 1,200 Kitavan Islanders of Papua New Guinea, including 300 between the ages of 15 to 25, and 115 Ache hunter-gatherers of Paraguay, including 15 between the ages of 15 to 25. “We didn’t find a single case of acne,” Cordain says[7].

Is a western diet to blame? In the USA, about 80 to 95 percent of teens develop acne and even middle-aged adults aren’t spared. In search of an explanation, the researchers examined the diets of the two primitive cultures. They primarily consumed fish, vegetables, 44

September2018

peanuts, rice, some wild game and fruit with almost no processed foods and only a small amount of pasta, bread and sugar. Cordain strongly believes their diet is the reason they had blemish free skin. Alternately, a steady diet of high glycemic foods can trigger a “hormonal cascade” with insulin triggering the release of male hormones and growth factors that leads to more oil, increased cell sloughing, clogged pores and acne.

SLEEP How much shut-eye is enough? About seven to nine quality hours will bring you the boon of snooze. Sleep is our body’s time for general repair and res-

LNEonline.com

toration but you can share the following specific benefits with your clients.

Water balance occurs when we sleep; the body efficiently utilizes H2O hydrating the skin while simultaneously flushing out the excess. In a recent study in Japan, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increased (which can create dry, wrinkled skin) with a lack of sleep and had a greater impact on skin hydration than dietary intake and eating behavior [8]. At the same time, excess water is flushed from the system reducing puffy eyes and bloating. The brain also gets a cleanse during sleep with an influx of cerebrospinal fluid carrying out waste twice as fast as during waking times[9] making you more beautiful and brainy!

Sleep deprivation lowers circulation decreasing the rosiness of skin and in

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #294 on reader service card

business What Money Can’t Buy References 1. Kowatzki D, Macholdt C, Krull K, et al. Effect of regular sauna on epidermal barrier function and stratum corneum water-holding capacity in vivo in humans: a controlled study. Dermatology.

2008;217(2):173-180.

2. Korting HC, Lukacs A, Vogt N, et al. Influence of the pH-value on the growth of Staphylococcus epidermidis, Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes in continuous culture.

Zentralbl Hyg Umweltmed. 1992;193(1):78-90.

3.

Csosz E, Emri G, Kallo G, et al. Highly abundant defense proteins in human sweat as revealed by targeted proteomics and label-free quantification mass spectrometry. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2015;29(10):2024-2031.

4.

Nakano T, Yoshino T, Fujimura T, et al.

Reduced expression of dermcidin, a peptide active against propionibacterium acnes, in sweat of patients with acne vulgaris. Acta Derm Venereol.

2015;95(7):783-786.

5. Kowatzki D, Macholdt C, Krull K, et al. Effect of regular sauna on epidermal barrier function and stratum corneum water-holding capacity in vivo in humans: a controlled study. Dermatology.

2008;217(2):173-180.

6. Mahmood SN, Bowe WP. Diet and acne update: carbohydrates emerge as the main culprit.

J Drugs Dermatol. 2014 Apr;13(4):428-35.

7.

Cordain L, Lindeberg S, Hurtado M, Hill K, Eaton SB, Brand-Miller J. Acne vulgaris: a

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #165 on reader service card

conjunction with a decrease in HGH, increases healing times of pimples and other wounds and leads to accelerated aging. The increase in inflammation that occurs when the body cannot restore itself wreaks havoc on the immune system making it difficult for the body to not only fight off infection but also keep immune related skin conditions such as psoriasis and dermatitis from flaring up. These itchy skin states can keep people awake creating a vicious cycle with both quality sleep and the skin condition worsening together. But a date with the sandman can help skin to heal faster which can encourage a more restful repose - a real win-win.

Bedtime is also an idyllic opportunity to apply skin treatments because it helps to slow TEWL, skin is in a heightened state of repair and there is no potential for an adverse effect from the sun. So when you do sell them that cream, sack time is the perfect time to apply!

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disease of Western civilization. Arch Dermatol.

2002 Dec;138(12):1584-90.

8. Yoshizaki T, Kimira Y, Mano H, Ota M, Iwatsuki K, Oishi Y. Association between Skin Condition and Sleep Efficiency in Japanese Young Adults.

J Nutr Sci Vitaminol (Tokyo). 2017;63(1):15-20.

9.

Xie L, Kang H, Xu Q, Chen MJ, Liao Y, Thiyagarajan M, O'Donnell J, Christensen DJ, Nicholson C, Iliff JJ, Takano T, Deane R, Nedergaard M. Sleep drives metabolite clearance from the adult brain. Science. 2013 Oct 18;342(6156):373-7.

Tanis Rhines is a Cellular and Molecular Scientist turned Esthetician revealing the truth about all things esthetic. She is the founder of The Garden Spa'T Organic Skin Care and a prolific writer - tackling topics as a biotechnologist, breaking down the data and revealing its application to skincare; often in a humorous but always in an honest way. Rhines is known as the “Organic Beauty Scientist” and is passionate about busting myths and educating people to be brainy about their beauty.

Industry Talk

Innovative treatments. Do you offer Korean v-line facials, European eyelifting techniques, Meridian fascia resculpting? Are you familiar with machine technology? Ultrasonic? LED? Hot/cold system? Microneedling?

Be on-trend to stand out from the competition.

Post Care Prescription. Your client's experience should be like a VIP date that starts and ends with an "OMG." Serve clients their favorite tea while you discuss post care. Take an "after" photo, zooming in on areas that show transformation. Prescribe home care products for a 4-week maintenance program. Check in after two weeks.

When clients feel special, they'll spread the word!

STATUS QUO = NO-NO

With CEO

Janel Luu X-FACTOR FOR SUCCESS What's the formula for achieving success?

"Success training" starts when you break free from limiting thoughts.

Why is it so difficult? It's because our brains are wired to embrace certainty and fear change, which blocks possibilities surrounding us. The solution? Like a trained athlete, the key to success is making small changes every day... until they become habits launching you toward your goals.

That's the X-Factor.

KEY STRATEGIES TO ATTRACT CLIENTELE How can you create a five-star experience?

Personalized welcome. Do you greet clients by name and remember details about them? Do you offer a freshly laundered robe or a beverage? A card with "This bed was

specially prepared for ___" ? A cushion under legs, a blanket over cold feet, a hot towel behind the neck?

Make each client feel like a star, and your spa is their sought-after refuge.

Professional diagnosis. Take "before" photos using an iPad or tablet.

Zoom in and show problem areas.

Hand clients a 20X magnifying mirror so they see their skin up close (which often is a shock!). Take notes. Tell clients you're their skin care coach, and explain how their treatment is a prescription tailored for their unique concerns.

Sensorial elevation. A burst of aromatherapy is key to heightening your client's experience. Have clients select a mood-altering aromatherapy blend. Start the treatment with an aromatherapy spray to set the tone.

Use towels with light aromas of lavender, sage, or patchouli.

What about repeat visits and new clients?

Improving your business starts with your inner dialogue. Are you telling yourself it's difficult to find clients?

Don't have time to learn new techniques? Lack social media skills?

Instead, start thinking differently.

Make small changes. Create new habits. Visit other spas and learn some do's and don'ts. Have a growth mindset, where you continually educate yourself and improve your skills, whether taking classes, watching webinars, attending tradeshows, reading trade magazines, engaging in social media, or just learning one new technique. Embrace the X-Factor, and today will always be an improvement from yesterday on your path to success.

Presented by

lemieuxcosmetics.com 888.327.8188 info@lemieuxcosmetics.com

TRADESHOW TALK GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR TRADESHOW EXPERIENCE WITH THESE INSIDER TIPS!

FROM

ATTENDEES

Keep an eye on your inbox in the days leading up to the show! You don’t want to miss any sneak peaks and deals before walking onto the exhibit floor!

Any place where estheticians gather to learn from each other and from educators is a place you need to be. We can all learn a thing or two from each other!

Tradeshows are the best place to stock up on back bar products! You’ll never find a better deal or better customer service than in person at a show!

Tradeshows are how I stay up on education!

Live tutorials and classes included with my ticket are a major perk.

Nothing beats a face-to-face interaction. Tradeshows are the single most effective way to market your brand and close a major sale!

I love meeting estheticians who have just graduated! Tradeshows are often their first introduction to the world of professional skin care. They are so impressionable and are eager to hear about my brand!

The clients who come to tradeshows are the best clients. You’ll never meet more invested, curious and loyal clients who are so eager to interact with your staff and your brand.

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FROM

EXHIBITORS

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #305 on reader service card

SAY ALOHA TO A GOOD CAUSE

Spa consultant and business mentor, Maxine Drake, is hosting the Beauty Business Summit in Hawaii next month on October 14-15! Learn how to perform luxury treatments and gain the interpersonal skills needed to win the trust of premium clients. Proceeds from the event will be gifted to a beauty school. The grant is currently at $10,000!

beautybusinesssummit.org Maxine@MaxineDrake.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

BusinessNews

SALT IN THE AIR!

The Salt Therapy Association (STA) will host its First Annual Conference from September 16-18, 2018, at the Delray Beach Marriott in Delray Beach, FL. This educational event will be the first time salt therapy industry experts, providers, facility owners, spa directors, health care professionals, and enthusiasts from around the world will all be in the same space to network and talk about the state of the industry.

A WELCOMED NEW ADDITION

Fresh off a multi-million dollar renovation completion, Hotel Crescent Court proudly announces the appointment of Branden Fein as Spa Director for the all-new, 22,000 sq. ft. luxury spa and fitness center. In this role, Fein will shape the spa and wellness vision, developing innovative treatments and services to ensure The Spa continues to offer exceptional, one-ofa-kind experiences.

SPA INDUSTRY GROWTH

A new study conducted by PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC) shows spa industry growth at a new high. PwC reports that the U.S. Spa Industry has surpassed $16.3 billion dollars as the industry continues to experience increased total revenue, spa visits, spa locations, revenue per visit, and number of spa employees.

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PEELS Guide

Advanced concepts in chemical exfoliation

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CUSTOM PEEL

Blends An esthetician’s guide to combining acid peels

by Elyse Blakey

According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, professional chemical peel treatment sales climbed to number three just under BotoxÂŽ and soft tissue fillers in terms of the top five minimally invasive cosmetic procedures in 2017. Taking into consideration that 1.37 million chemical peels were performed last year alone, staying current and offering the most up to date options to your clients is important to gain a piece of that consumer spending pie.

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Peels Guide present. As we age, cellular turnover slows down so anything we can do to accelerate that process is going to be beneficial in achieving younger looking skin. When AHAs are paired with retinol in a peel formulation the combination of exfoliation, increased cellular turnover and synthetization of collagen will target visible signs of aging. As the AHA is working to decrease the layer of dead skin cells, retinol works to stimulate collagen production. In turn, the thickness of the dermis will increase.

Wrinkles become softened, fine lines become much less noticeable, pigmentation can become lighter and skin can appear more full, firm and plump. This combination can also be effective in treating acne prone skin. Retin-A was well known for treating acne before its rise to fame as an anti-aging ingredient.

PEELS 101

ACNEIC SKIN COMBO PEEL

A chemical peel is a professional skin resurfacing procedure in which an acid or enzymatic solution is applied to the skin in a controlled environment to remove the damaged layer of the epidermis and accelerate cell regeneration.

It’s important to remember that estheticians work within a specific scope of practice, which means unless working under a medical license, professional treatments address the epidermal layer of the skin. That being said, how we treat the epidermis will affect what happens in the dermis, as they share the dermal-epidermal junction.

As the dermis is considered the “true age” layer of the skin, stimulating cellular turnover as well as collagen synthesis will improve dermal thickness, resulting in younger looking skin. A chemical peel is one of the least invasive ways to change the appearance of the skin and can help improve so many skin conditions, including acne, acne scarring, pigmentation concerns, fine lines and wrinkles and skin laxity, just to name a few.

As previously mentioned, when treating acne and acne prone skin, salicylic acid is the real MVP when it comes to chemical peels indicated to address it.

Salicylic acid is a BHA and is oil soluble.

That means that for skin that is exceptionally oily or acne prone, salicylic acid will enter the pore and purge excess oil and unblock the follicle. Not only does this allow sebum to flow more easily out of the pore, but it also allows oxygen into the pore. Since P. Acnes bacteria cannot thrive in an oxygenated environment, active acne will subside.

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your client's specific skin condition.

Different acids and enzymes treat different conditions. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) work by “ungluing” the bonds that hold the dead skin cells together and result in a more effective exfoliation. Some examples of AHAs are glycolic acid, lactic acid and malic acid.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and is effective because it is oilsoluble and thus enters the pore easily to purge excess oil and dead skin cells lining the pore wall. Retinol, the “gold standard” in anti-aging, stimulates cellular turnover as well as being known to stimulate collagen production. Enzymes, typically derived from fruit such as papaya, pumpkin and pineapple can be very effective at softening and “digesting” dead skin cells, resulting in softer and brighter looking skin.

AGING SKIN COMBO PEEL Combining these ingredients for specific skin conditions and concerns will increase and enhance results. When it comes to aging skin, clients are typically battling fine lines, deeper wrinkles, skin laxity, dullness, loss of radiance and uneven pigmentation can become

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HYPERPIGMENTATION COMBO PEEL It has been said that pigmentation is the new wrinkle, aging the perceived look of the skin up to 10 years. While pigmentation can be a result of UVA and UVB ray exposure, there are also many other factors that contribute to hyperpigmentation concerns. Hormones, medication, inflammation and trauma to the skin can all result in accelerated pigmentation. Lactic acid is an AHA known for lightening pigmentation.

Lactic acid works on the surface of the skin to stimulate cell turnover, reduce pigmentation and brighten the appear-

Peels Guide

Kojic acid works as a tyrosinase inhibitor, which means it can slow down melanin production.

additional anti-aging ingredients. These peel solutions often times tend to be self-neutralizing. These peels can be known to repair moderate to severe acne, rejuvenate aging skin and address and correct pigmentation.

Chemical peels and enzymatic treatments can be very effective in treating all skin types and concerns. In an industry that is always evolving, having a clear understanding and depth of knowledge of all that is available to change clients’ skin will help professionals achieve the ultimate results.

ance of the skin. When it is combined with kojic acid, the results are even better. Kojic acid works as a tyrosinase inhibitor, which means it can slow down melanin production.

Lactic acid can also be quite hydrating, so it is also helpful when treating dry, dehydrated and pigmented skin.

DRY SKIN COMBO PEEL

Age Later.

Elyse Blakey is a licensed esthetician who travels all over the world to train estheticians on the newest formulas and ingredients from Image Skincare. She is dedicated to help the world

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For skin that is dry, dehydrated, sensitive and redness or rosacea prone, a combination of acids might not always be the best choice of treatment. When skin is easily reddened an acid can exacerbate that redness and make the skin more sensitive. However, that skin will still need exfoliation in order combat signs of aging, especially if rosacea with papules and pustules presents. Instead of acids, try turning to enzymes and vitamin C. Fruit enzymes work by gently softening and melting the dead skin cells, both stimulating cellular turnover and ridding the skin’s surface of pore-clogging debris.

The addition of vitamin C will support the skin’s ability to fight free radical damage, which can lead to inflammation and further redness and sensitivity.

Fruit enzymes can also be used alone very effectively to gently exfoliate sensitive skin that has become dull due to a buildup of dead skin cells on the epidermis. The uppermost layer of skin is primarily made up of a protein called keratin. Enzyme peels work by hydrolyzing or breaking up this protein, removing dull, dry, damaged surface cells and impurities leaving the skin softer and smoother. Various fruits lend their enzymes to provide different results and benefits.

Pumpkin enzymes provide a natural and gentle exfoliation along with skin brightening antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. Papaya enzymes, also known as papain, help to exfoliate, moisturize and repair skin. Pineapple enzymes, also referred to as bromelain, help to exfoliate the skin and rebuild collagen for a more youthful complexion. Also, bromelain can provide powerful anti-inflammatory benefits so those enzymes can also be helpful for inflamed acne skin.

MORE AGGRESSIVE BLENDS For more advanced aging, acne and stubborn pigmentation, more aggressive acid blends can be extremely effective in changing the skin. A traditional Jessner’s solution is a blend of 14 percent Salicylic acid, 14 percent Lactic acid and 14 percent Resorcinol. More common today is a modified Jessner’s solution, which may also be blended with LNEonline.com

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Superficial VS.

DEEP PEELS

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How to choose the right depth of peel for your client

by Gul Zone

There are three juxtaposing strengths of peels used today: superficial, medium and deep. Choosing which peel is best for the client depends on the practitioner’s license, their expertise and critical evaluation of the client’s skin type and concerns. In order to understand the difference between these peel classifications, it is important to examine the pros and cons of each. Thereafter, the practitioner can make an informed decision on which type of peel is best for their client.

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Peels Guide

• PEEL CHEMISTRY

• SUPERFICIAL PEEL

A chemical peel is a skin resurfacing technique whose application loosens the weak outer layers of skin and facilitates their removal. The most common type of chemical peel are acids.

Acid peels work to remove cells from the skin’s upper epidermis by breaking weak chemical bonds that hold together the epidermal skin cells, termed corneocytes or keratinocytes. Depending on the strength, pH, and delivery agent of the peel product, the skin cells delaminate and lift away first in the upper epidermis of the stratum corneum and next in the underlying layer of densely packed dead cells in the lower levels of the epidermis. As the peel process proceeds, or upon subsequent treatment, a peel can penetrate further into the thickness of the epidermis to interact with and weaken the bonds holding together lower epidermal cells. This mild trauma to the epidermis kickstarts the skin’s natural healing process, resulting in new epidermal cells and a rejuvenated appearance.

Superficial peels are the safest and most common type of peel performed by estheticians. Alpha and beta-hydroxy acids fall into this category. Alphahydroxy acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and other fruit acids. Salicylic Acid on the other hand is a beta-hydroxy acid, which at lower strengths would be considered superficial but medium depth at higher concentrations. There is a wide range of strengths available in these chemicals peels. The concentration of the acid for professional treatments may vary between 20-40 percent in the spa and 40 percent and higher in the medical spa. Depending on the concentration, pH and acid type some alpha or beta hydroxyl peels may cross the line from superficial to medium depth.

Some superficial peels are buffered.

That means that the pH of the acid is raised, in effect neutralizing the chemical peel partially and reducing the total final concentration of acid in that peel. Due to the decreased concentra-

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HC

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tion and higher pH, buffered peels will behave weaker. Non-buffered chemical peels will behave stronger as they have a higher concentration of hydrogen ions, the functional component of acids, to cleave the bonds that hold the epidermis together. In addition to concentration and pH, delivery systems and other active ingredients also effect the strength of the superficial peel.

Therefore, it is imperative to know the pH as well as the final concentration of acids in a peel when evaluating its strength, and hence its reactivity.

Superficial treatments can be used to target the signs of aging including fine lines, wrinkles, dehydration, hormonal skin changes as well as hyperpigmentation, acne and rosacea. They are also beneficial in increasing overall skin health by lifting and removing potential pre-actinic keratosis spots, improving glow, thickening thinning skin.

In effect, any skin condition that occurs in the epidermis can be targeted with superficial peels.

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Peels Guide

Such peels are performed to clean, prepped skin. Depending on the peel they can be used alone or layered with other peels. If the pH of the peel is very low, it is always imperative to apply a neutralizer post peel and follow up with healing treatments to help the skin recover. It is important to remember that these peels are performed to aid in pigmentation irregularities, acne and to improve the youthful appearance of the skin. They are often performed on skin that is aging or compromised.

Therefore, the healing steps are critical for good long term results.

Fortunately, superficial peels have zero to little downtime. They are safe.

Frosting does not usually occur with these peels, as this would be indicative of it penetrating the dermis to coagulate with protein albumin in the deeper skin. Often times the peels performed in the spa combine the layering of peels which can enhance penetration and bump up a superficial peel to a light medium depth peel.

Another benefit of superficial peels is the myriad of acid selection. This allows the facial treatment to be customized by acid type as well as strength.

This is particularly important when targeting high Fitzpatrick skin color with a desire to both suppress hyperpigmentation, correct existing spots and treat the signs of aging. Although it is not in the scope of this article, each type of acid has its own unique properties fortes and this can be taken into consideration when choosing the best peel for each client.

inter-dispersed with a profusion of small blood vessels. It is responsible for transferring nutrients to the epidermis and modulating the temperature of the skin. It plays a crucial role in defending against infection and contributes to the lymphatic system. Nerve fibers and touch receptors can also be found in this layer of the skin. Due to the critical role that the papillary dermis plays, medium depth peels must be chosen and performed with caution.

The most common medium depth peel is TCA (trichloroacetic acid) in concentrations of 20% and above. Other peels in this category are Jessner solutions, or formulations with high concentrations of glycolic acid, salicylic acid or other low pH hydroxy-acids.

Oftentimes, medium depth results can be achieved by combining multiple modalities.

While the downtime of medium depth peels may be more than superficial peels, they can also target skin care concerns that are deeper within the skin. For instance, since pigment producing melanocytes are found at the base of the epidermis along the transepidermal junction, oftentimes some pigmentary irregularities will distend into the superficial layer of the dermis.

Therefore, in some cases of advance photo-damaged skin medium depth

• MEDIUM DEPTH PEELS Medium depth peels penetrate to the superficial dermis. The superficial dermis, also called the papillary dermis, is the uppermost layer of the dermis.

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peels may be effective. Additionally, improvement in actinic keratosis and depressed scarring can be achieved.

Medium depth peels are performed by medically trained practitioners. They are applied after vigorous cleaning and degreasing along with anti-bacterial preparation. As with all peels pre- and post-care is critical.

Trichloroacetic acid in higher concentrations has been found to be unreliable and has been associated with higher incidence of complications. Splotchy peel application and un-even penetration can lead to uneven results. Frosting and downtime is common, making healing prolonged.

Additionally, post-inflammatory responses can illicit hyperpigmentation and even scarring if the skin does not bounce back from the trauma in a reasonable amount of time. Taking these contraindications into consideration is crucial if choosing to perform a medium depth peel.

• DEEP PEELS Deep chemical peels penetrate to the mid-dermal skin potentially reaching the reticular dermis. Underneath the superficial papillary dermis is the reticular layer. While the papillary dermis is loose and subtle, the reticular dermis is dense and rigid. Hair follicles, sweat

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Peels Guide generation. These peels require preprocedural bloodwork, full medical monitoring and pain modulation of the patient and typically is performed as outpatient surgery. The patient is required to soak their skin, use occlusive ointments and use oral medications post-op with labor intensive specific requirements. Downtime can be for two weeks or more depending on complications and healing time. The procedure typically requires daily home care by the patient as well as several post-op office visits.

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and oil glands are located in the reticular dermis. It is thicker than the papillary dermis and has fewer capillaries.

Home to the youth protein producing fibroblast cells, the reticular dermis includes mast cells which control allergic reactions and anti-microbial cells called macrophages which gobble up bacteria and viruses. Therefore, disrupting the reticular dermis with deep peels is not something that should be done lightly.

Deep peeling is performed by physicians and are reserved for those with excessive wrinkling, severe photo-aged skin and high amounts of dermal de-

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• CHOOSING WISELY Understanding the different types of peels is the first step to selecting the best one for the client. There has been much discussion whether it is better to perform a single medium depth peel or several superficial peels with progressive strengths. While the stronger, deeper penetrating peels can lead to dramatic results, there is also a greater risk of complications along with longer recovery times.

Different skin conditions occur at different levels of the skin. Therefore, identifying the target site and then choosing the appropriate peel is imperative. The deeper the peel, the more the inflammation and the more potential for scarring or infection. Therefore, it is better to start with a lighter peel and only progress to a deeper one only if it is absolutely necessary.

Superficial peels have come a long way from your basic glycolic peel application. Today we offer a plethora of different types of superficial and medium depth result superficial peels including acid and non-acid treatments. We are able to enhance peeling with peel boosters as well as combine them with other resurfacing modalities. Starting light and gradually increasing the depth of resurfacing correlates to both effective immediate and long term results the practitioner is better able to understand that individual’s skin and modulate the degree and type of increase in peeling that most benefits the client.

Gül C. Zone is the CEO and founder of Ecozone, Inc. and Dermaware®. She is a biochemist who has contributed to the development of several international skin care lines. Zone leads educational seminars that focus on the importance of honesty and scientific facts to empower the esthetic community while raising the bar of knowledge in our industry to a higher level.

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KNOW YOUR

Levels

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A refresher course on the Fitzpatrick Scale and why it’s so important

by Katelyn Macy

When choosing the best peel for a client, there are many factors that play a role. In order to choose the appropriate acid type, peel depth, formula, application method, and pre/post peel procedures, you must take into account the client’s skin condition, goals, tolerance level, adherence to recommended home care, and general health of the skin.

Perhaps one of the most important tools in an esthetician’s peel selection toolkit is the Fitzpatrick Scale. Understanding Fitzpatrick skin types and how they relate to peels can prevent disasters in the treatment room, even those that begin with good intentions. Let’s explore the relationship between Fitzpatrick skin types and popular acids:

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Peels Guide

WHAT IS THE FITZPATRICK SCALE? Below is the Fitzpatrick Scale: The Fitzpatrick Scale is a numerical classification for how easily a person’s skin burns or tans. An over-simplified description of the Fitzpatrick Scale is to say it is a classification of skin tone, ranging from Type I being the lightest, and Types V and up being the darkest. However, this description is misinformed. The Fitzpatrick Scale is much more complex than simply an assessment of how dark a client’s skin pigment is, as skin tone is not always the determining factor in whether someone burns or tans easily.

More than just a characteristic of skin color, the ability to tan or burn is also influenced by race and ethnicity.

For example, a Hispanic client with fair skin might be less likely to burn than a Scandinavian client with fair skin, even though they have the same skin color.

These two clients would have different Fitzpatrick Types. This is why assessing the client as a whole, rather just by skin tone, is necessary to determine the correct Fitzpatrick type.

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• TYPE I: Highly sensitive, always burns, never tans.

• TYPE II: Very sun sensitive, burns easily, tans minimally.

• TYPE III: Sun-sensitive skin, sometimes burns, slowly tans to light brown.

• TYPE IV: Minimally sun sensitive, burns minimally, always tans to moderate brown.

• TYPE V: Sun-insensitive skin, rarely burns, tans well.

• TYPE V - VI: Sun insensitive, never burns, deeply pigmented.

A Fitzpatrick Type I client would be an albino-like skin that burns with only a few minutes of bright sun exposure.

A Fitzpatrick Type VI client would be the darkest skin type that rarely, if ever, burns. Most Caucasian Americans and persons of Germanic or Scottish descent are probably a Fitzpatrick Type II-III, whereas Latino and Mediterranean skin types may be III-V. Redheaded

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persons of Scottish descent have the easiest skin to burn and also have the highest rate of skin cancer and melanoma occurrence.

DETERMINING YOUR CLIENT’S SKIN TYPE There are three main factors that influence someone’s Fitzpatrick Skin Type: 1. Genetic disposition: The skin type is determined by genetics and is one of the many aspects of one’s overall appearance. It can dictate eye color, hair color/type, the depth of capillaries, the thickness of skin, and the body’s ability to produce melanin.

2. Reaction to sun exposure: The way one’s skin reacts to sun exposure is another important factor in correctly assessing skin type 3.Tanning habits: How often does your client tan? How easily do they tan?

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Peels Guide

To determine your client’s Fitzpatrick Skin Type, your pre-treatment consultation should include specific questions regarding their pigmentation, reaction to sun exposure, tendency to produce freckles, and ability to tan. If the client’s Fitzpatrick Type is not obvious to you, you can ask the same questions about your client’s parents. Do they burn easily? Do they freckle? How deeply do they tan? This is perhaps a more professional strategy than asking your client’s ethnicity.

THE FITZPATRICK SCALE AND CHEMICAL PEELS Understanding your client’s Fitzpatrick Skin Type is critical when selecting a chemical peel, let alone deciding if you should do one at all. Clients with a higher Fitzpatrick Skin Type are more likely to develop post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, specifically types III-VI. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) develops as darkly pigmented areas of skin that occur after an inflammatory process of the skin such as acne, eczema, or irritation. The irony of PIH lies in that the treatments geared towards fixing hyperpigmentation (peels, lasers, hydroquinone, etc) are, in fact, the same treatments that can cause PIH in clients with high Fitzpatrick Skin Types (FST).

Retinol, Jessner, and TCA are safe to perform on these clients. Keep in mind that strength and duration of the peel will affect tolerance level.

Keep in mind that Fitzpatrick Skin Type I-III clients are highly to moderately prone to sunburn, so be sure to provide appropriate SPF and occlusive skin barrier cream post-procedure for your client to use at home.

Type IV Clients with Fitzpatrick Skin Type IV fall somewhere in the middle of the chemical peel tolerance range. Although they are capable of sunburn, they are also capable of tanning, which indicates a moderate melanin response system.

This could potentially lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation if not approached with caution.

When used with caution, minding concentration and duration, the following peels are generally safe to perform on clients with Fitzpatrick Skin Type IV: AHA’s such as lactic, citric, malic and tartaric; flower acids such as hibiscus and lotus; salicylic; TCA; Retinol.

Notice that Jessner and Acetic Acid peels are not listed above. These peels have the potential to cause PIH in FST IV clients, and should be avoided.

Knowing which peels are suitable for each FST is vital to ensuring the safety and efficacy of your treatments.

Let’s review each FST and discuss which peels are appropriate for each, and why.

Types I-III Clients with Fitzpatrick Skin Types I-III skin are at low risk of developing post-treatment inflammation, scarring, or other undesired side effects.

All types of chemical peels, including BHA, AHA, Acetic Acid, Flower Acids,

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Type V-VI Clients with Fitzpatrick Skin Type V-VI have a moderate to high risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, due to their strong melanin response. These clients tan easily, and have the ability to produce dark pigment in the skin.

Caution should be used when performing chemical peels on these clients, and treatment of scars, texture, or unwanted pigmentation should be done slowly over the course of several months.

AHA’s, flower acids, and retinol peels can be safely performed on these clients, however keep in mind that strength and duration of treatment will determine the risk of PIH. Always consult the product manufacturer when determining if a peel is safe to use on clients at risk for PIH. Every formula is different, and therefore has different contraindications and recommended applications.

Katelyn Macy, LE is the Director of Sales and Education for Circadia by Dr. Pugliese, Inc. Katelyn has worked in the esthetics industry for the last ten years. She joined the Circadia family in 2011, her expertise in education and ingredient technology background has advanced her to where she is today.

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METAPHYSICS MEETS

ESTHETICS How to create a mind, body and spirit connection in your spa

by Donna Spencer

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Metaphysics is a philosophical belief that examines the nature of the human mind and the belief that there are universal laws outside of the human realm that we all must adhere to. In others words, there are laws that exist which were created by a universal intelligence; an energy greater than ourselves that we can connect with to bring our desires into being. This is known as the “law of attraction,” which many mainstream readers became familiar with after reading Rhonda Byrnes' bestselling book “The Secret.” The basic premise of this particular universal law is that we all have the ability to use our mind to connect with that universal intelligence/energy to get what we want.

There is also a common belief in metaphysics that it is not possible to separate the mind, body or spirit because they are inextricably connected.

This belief can be found in the spa industry as well.

Estheticians, like other spa and wellness professionals, practice (and preach) the concept of the mind, body, and spirit connection endlessly. In fact, it's not a stretch to say that the mind, body, spirit connection is the foundation, and core of the spa industry. Likewise “mind” is at the core of metaphysics. The Greek philosopher Aristotle is considered to be the father of metaphysics and the discourse about what metaphysics is can go on for as long and as far back as his lifetime (c. 325BC).

However, simply stated metaphysics is the concept of “mind over matter” or, in the esthetician's case, it is more specifically mind over body.

You are a metaphysical wellness worker. As an esthetician, you can easily employ metaphysics to enhance your client's spa experience. You are already doing this by utilizing the mind, body, and spirit connection while preparing the client's subconscious mind for transformation. Below is a breakdown of how you practice the mind, body, and spirit connection daily during your client sessions.

MIND - Your very first interaction with the client is centered on the mind concept. The first and most important thing you want your client to do is to relax. Regardless of the spa location that a client chooses to visit the facial room is always one of the most calming spaces on the premises, and there's an obvious reason for that. The reason being that there will be a total disconnect from any

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organic & wellness Metaphysics Meets Esthetics benefit to the body and spirit aspect of your treatment if you can't help the client achieve relaxation. Needless to say, any cutting-edge equipment or techniques designed to "wow" your client will all be for naught if the client is anxious or preoccupied in the facial chair. You engage all of the senses to promote relaxation.

The word “aesthetic” (as derived from the Greek word "aisthetikos") actually means "of sense perception."

Upon entering the facial room the client is met with warm, dimmed lighting, and soft colored decor to soothe the eyes. Tranquil music plays throughout the session to set a peaceful and quiet the mood. Aromatherapy in the form of diffused essential oils enhances the sense of smell, traveling directly to the brain and releasing pleasurable endorphins. The sense of touch is engaged with soft robes and spa attire. Infused water and chocolate are made available to the client prior to and after treatment, and used to stimulate the sense of taste.

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BODY – A facial affords you access to a major portion of the body including the head, face, neck, shoulders, décolletage, and hands. If you are performing body treatments, you have access to your client's entire body. The more access you have, the more of an opportunity you have to employ the power of the mind, body, spirit connection to create lasting change for your client.

SPIRIT – Your touch uplifts. The equipment, product protocols, and your skill-set improve the condition and appearance of the client's skin. When your client feels good, they automatically look good. You help to boost their self-confidence and raise their level of self-esteem. For many clients it will feel like a rejuvenating rebirth; a transformation from the person who first walked in. How many times have you heard a client exclaim, “I feel like a new person!” or, “I feel better than I've felt in a long time!”? Comments like these are a testament to the impact you have on their spirit and their lives.

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Metaphysics has found its way into the spa setting with other modalities such as Reiki and Crystal Therapy. You as an esthetician can also avail yourself of this method to effectively service your clients, and it doesn't require any additional labor. During a facial, you spend at least an hour or more with your client. Make the most of this time by incorporating “mind” techniques to assist your client with their skin care goals. Utilize these metaphysical techniques to prolong your treatments beyond your client's spa visit. Admittedly, the vast amount of metaphysical practices available can seem overwhelming, so here are just a few to get your client started.

• Visualization - A key component of metaphysics. It involves using your mind to “see” whatever it is that you want to achieve. Your client comes to you to make changes in their mood and physical appearance. While they are in your care and free from distractions, seize the opportunity to have

focus on

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Environ’s revolutionary 3-step Mela-Smart System™ is comprised of 4 innovative products of which the ingredients work together to help inhibit the effects of the 6 complex steps involved in the formation of hyperpigmentation. For optimal results, clients should combine the Radiance+ Range with their daily Vitamin STEP-UP SYSTEM™ routine.

Each product within the Radiance+ Range contains specific ingredient combinations scientifically known to target the effects of the root causes of dark spots, pigmentation, and uneven skin tone.

Contact info@dermaconcepts.com to find out how you can join the #RadianceRevolution and give your client’s skin more of what it needs to look more even-toned and radiant.

Visit us at: • AmSpa Medical Spa & Aesthetic Boot Camp in Boston, MA September 15 - 16 • Plastic Surgery The Meeting (ASPS) in Chicago, IL September 28 - October 2 LNEonline.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #224 on reader service card

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organic & wellness Metaphysics Meets Esthetics

Encourage your client to talk about the positive outcome of their goals.

• Positive Self-Talk – Follow the same principle as affirmations. However, instead of reciting a statement, this involves having a positive conversation with yourself about yourself. The crucial element of self-talk is replacing negative thoughts and conversations in your mind with positive conversations that you think or speak out loud.

Encourage your client to talk about the positive outcome of their goals or any other challenge they may be facing, whenever any negative thoughts occur.

Again, in the practice of metaphysics what you speak over your life will come to be. Language is key during self-talk.

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a deeper impact on their emotional well-being and the actual condition of their skin. After the client has shared their goals for the session, ask them to imagine that their goals have already been achieved; to form a picture in their mind of what they (and their life) looks like now that their goals have been met. Most importantly, ask them to describe how they feel. Instruct them to hold on to this feeling during your session even if they lose sight of the image. In metaphysics, the “feeling state” is what convinces the mind to make mental and physical changes.

• Affirmations – These are positive statements used to declare any condition or change you want in your life.

Metaphysically, this is a “self-fulfilling prophecy” whereby what you speak of about yourself you will eventually become. Help your client to develop an affirmation that they can easily recall and recite throughout the day. “My appearance becomes more radiant every day!” is a popular one for spa clients.

Writing the affirmation down also helps to commit it to memory and allows it to be posted on the fridge (or bathroom mirror) as a reminder of the client's desirable goals.

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Inform your client that it's important to speak about their “desires” instead of their “wants” which metaphysically has the negative connotation of always wanting but never receiving.

• Meditation – If there ever was a perfect time for meditation, it's while having a facial. Sitting in the slightly upright position allows the client to easily relax without completely zoning out. This is an opportune time for you to set your intentions for treatment, and for your client to meditate on the desired outcome and lasting effects.

Metaphysics and esthetics are not strangers. Both were regarded as two distinct philosophical schools of thought as early as 325BC. However, combining metaphysics with esthetics in your client treatments makes for a powerfully effective meeting of the Mind!

Donna Spencer is a holistic wellness practitioner and owner of Angelic Moon Holistic Day Spa & APOTHECARY in the Florida Keys, a wellness boutique which offers bio-dynamic skin care, custom-blended remedies, spiritual supplies. When Donna is not being a massage therapist, esthetician, Reiki master, wellness coach, or metaphysical/spiritual advisor, you can find her enjoying the island breeze.

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The meaning behind organic certifications and how to choose the best products

by Cathi Bates

Eco-seals and logos are everywhere. They wink at us from shelves and counters, trying to get our attention.

Unfortunately, many companies use them to “greenwash” their images and products. They want us to think their products are a heathier, environmentally conscious choice. It’s difficult to tell which are reliable and which are simply self-promoting.

SO WHAT EXACTLY IS GREENWASHING? Greenwashing is an environmental claim that is not confirmed, meaningless, or a distraction. It is the deceptive use of green marketing to create and promote a misleading image that a company's policies, practices, products or services are healthy or environmentally friendly.

As the need and desire for healthier, environmentally sustainable products has grown so has the abuse of greenwashing. Compounded by weak, outdated marketing guidelines and lax regulatory agency enforcement, there’s been a tidal wave of eco seals and logos. Regulators around the world are trying to keep up. We can help by not rewarding companies with our money and loyalty who are pulling the green wool over our eyes.

OH GREAT, ONE MORE THING TO DO! As spa managers, owners and directors, you can learn how to spot offenders and then train your staff to do the same. It’s more vital than ever that you and your staff are knowledgeable and your green message is credible. Set your spa apart by not perpetuating greenwashing; your clients will appreciate it.

A SEA of

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organic & wellness A Sea of Seals

BE ON THE LOOKOUT • False Logos and Seals: imposters

that look similar to the real ones. Look for missing elements. Some of them are quite clever. Commonly faked are graphics of a bunny with the words cruelty-free seeking to play off of the legitimate PETA and CCIC Leaping Bunny Program. Close, but no cigar!

• Out and Out Lies: using logos and

seals they are not licensed or permitted to use. No conscience!

• Meaninglessness: a made-up ir-

relevant logo or seal claiming not to contain an ingredient that has been banned for years. Believe it or not, this happens more than you think!

• Missing Seal: the most common

offense is using the word “organic”.

Look for the USDA organic seal. Simply using the word organic or some organic ingredients doesn’t make it organic!

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• Green by Association: Using an

ingredient’s or product’s legitimate logo or seal when referring to that ingredient or product on their own website.

Hoping the green rubs off!

CERTIFICATIONS They Come in Different Shapes and Sizes Third-party These are the best! An independent third-party organization strictly in the business of certifying verifies that the company has met and satisfied meaningful standards.

Second-party Are developed and marketed by industry associations.

First-party Company-owned organizations. They come up with their own standards, fulfill them and reward themselves with their own logo.

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Cradle-to-grave looks at the product’s entire life.

Single impact looks only at one single environmental impact.

Ask Questions: • Where does the certification come from? Is it a first, second, or third-party certification?

• Does it make sense?

• Don’t be afraid to ask companies/ salespersons for proof of their claims.

• Is the Logo or seal legitimate? Check and see. Report offenders and their fake usage to the organization that it is supposed to belong to.

MAKING IT EASIER Ecolabel Index Launched in 2007, Ecolabel Index collects and provides data on ecolabels globally, increasing transparency and helping people to be more informed.

It’s the only global source for informa-

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85

organic & wellness A Sea of Seals tion on ecolabels and green product standards. The Index currently lists data (including photos for easy identification) for 463 labels and seals. Their goal is to make it easier for people to make better-informed greener choices. Super helpful, free and easy to use.

TO NAME A FEW USDA Certified Organic USDA's National Organic Program (NOP) regulates the standards for any farm, wild crop harvesting, or handling operation that wants to sell an agricultural product as organically produced.

It also regulates and monitors the production of any product that calls itself organic. Organic is a labeling term that indicates that the food or other agricultural product has been produced through approved methods. These methods integrate cultural, biological, and mechanical practices that foster

cycling of resources, promote ecological balance, and conserve biodiversity.

The USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP) has created strict regulations that ensure finished products meet the USDA organic standards. The NOP prohibits the use of harmful toxins such as aluminum, EDTA, GMOs, nanoparticles, petrochemicals, parabens, synthetic colors or fragrances, propylene glycol, or Triclosan.

ject to strict and comprehensive verification processes independent from the Demeter Biodynamic Agricultural certification. Like the USDA’s NOP, just because a farm is certified by Demeter doesn’t mean that the finished product is certified. Mandating that the products themselves are certified prevents companies from adding non-compliant ingredients after the fact to their skin and body care products.

Ecocert Based in France, Ecocert specializes in the certification of organic agricultural products. Its standards are verified by an independent third-party organization.

Rainforest Alliance Certified/Verified Look for it on coffee, tea, chocolate, fruit juice, wood and paper products, personal care products and more.

From their website: “The Rainforest Alliance Certified™ seal ensures that a product comes from a farm or forest operation that meets comprehensive standards that protect the environment and promote the rights and well-being of workers, their families, and communities.”

Demeter Certified Biodynamic Demeter Biodynamic is a certifying body that certifies both farms and finished products. All finished products must comply with and are sub-

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organic & wellness A Sea of Seals

Leaping Bunny Program (The Coalition for Consumer Information on Cosmetics) CCIC is a non-profit organization dedicated to ending animal cruelty in the production of cosmetics and consumer products. Companies that are certified through (CCIC) Leaping Bunny Program must sign a declaration stating it has eliminated animal testing from all stages of their products development. In addition, they must have all of their raw ingredient suppliers sign their own independent declarations stating that none of the ingredients that said company purchases have been tested on animals. In order to maintain certification status, the company must annually recommit, update its suppliers’information and is subject to an annual audit.

PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) PETA is an international nonprofit charitable organization that is dedicated to establishing and defending the rights of all animals. It operates under the simple principle that animals are not ours to eat, wear, experiment on, or 88

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use for entertainment. PETA educates policymakers and the public about animal abuse and promotes humane treatment of animals.

Taken from PETA’s website: The very heart of all of PETA’s actions is the idea that it is the right of all beings—human and nonhuman alike—to be free from harm.

Fair Trade USA Certified When a product carries the FAIRTRADE Certification Mark, it means the producers and traders have met Fairtrade Standards. These standards include social, environmental and economic criteria, as well as progress requirements and terms of trade. They are designed to enable sustainable development and support small-scale producers and agricultural workers in the poorest countries, promoting opportunities to improve their lives and invest in their future.

sociated with business and residential buildings. LEED focuses on whole building sustainability which can be used by diverse professionals and government agencies. LEED also offers LEED Professional Credentials comprised of two categories: LEED Green Associates; and LEED Accredited Professionals.

Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) They are an international non-profit organization that manages international standard for well-managed forests and a process for tracking and certifying products derived from those forests.

They address numerous aspects of sustainable forestry, including ecological functions, old-growth forests, plantations, restoration, native habitat, indigenous people’s rights, and sound management for timber production.

Cathlene Bates is the Founder and CEO of Conscious Choice, a luxury brand of certified or-

LEED Green Building The U.S. Green Building Council created LEED certification, it is an internationally recognized standard for green building and design. The rating system works off of five categories and is as-

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ganic, cruelty-free skin and body care products packaged completely in non plastic. Her innovatively packaged retail product line along with accompanying backbar products with eco-friendly protocols are redefining being green.

ANTI-OXIDANT GOODNESS!

The Anti-Oxidant Masque from Eve Taylor is a medium weight creamy masque infused with a unique powerhouse of natural plant based, good-for-skin ingredients to resist the signs of ageing and assist with the healthy functioning of the skin.

Potent anti-oxidants neutralize damaging free radicals, while vitamin rich botanicals increase skin suppleness, brightness and luminosity.

Here's Ke Kō body sugaring paste, internationally acclaimed and the most pliable paste on the market. Dry, smooth and with enough strength to pull not only fine hair, but also coarse hair from the root. Ke Kō products are 100 percent natural, and this paste itself is made from pure lemon, sugar and water. No additives whatsoever. Ke Kō offers four versions to fit your style.

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TLC FOR THE SKIN!

Eminence Organic’s Facial Recovery Oil is a toning and hydrating oil created with precious herbs and nourishing oils to soothe and renew sensitive and aging skin. This luxurious facial oil is suitable for all skin types. Made with Biodynamic® ingredients from Demeter International Certified Biodynamic® farms.

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KOREAN BEAUTY SPOTLIGHT

Whamisa, a Korean-based brand, offers a full line of skincare for both men and women and focuses on the benefits of natural botanic ingredients. They have dedicated more than 10 years to research and development, resulting in patented technology.

Whamisa products feature patented skin care fermentation technology, zero purified water, botanical extracts, and are never tested on animals.

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Fall

Makeup

Trends Take these looks from the runway to your makeup chair

by Cristina Beecham

While summer weather seems to linger longer than expected, the world of beauty and fashion is five strides ahead.

This year’s Fall Makeup Trends made their presence known in a more glamorous statement than seasons prior. This season’s runways were stamped with bold, glimmering shadows and statement lips as the models sported bare faces and neutral skin. Although risk-taking, this season’s trends are surprisingly wearable! Here’s a quick lesson in Fall 2018 Makeup Trends that will elevate your client’s look from summer shabby to oh-so-autumn chic!

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image Fall Makeup Trends

1. GRAPHIC PINK SHADOW Makeup trendsetter and ultimate #mua goals Patt McGrath made a statement on the runway with a bold 80’s reference. Graph pink inner corners with a purple pop cut crease announced the entrance of the fall season. This allmatte shadow look was paired with a matt bronze contour and a nude pink glossy lip. Brows were left brushed up and bare, and the models’ skin had a fresh glow, but no sign up heavy highlighter application.

Makeup artist Polly Osmond also dipped into fuchsia pink shadow with a grungier vibe. The matte shadow was kept below the crease and blended outwards in a thick cat-eye shape. The lower lash line is smudged with charcoal liner for a sexy, sultry look.

Get The Look: For a more wearable statement eye, blend a matte, cool-toned pink through the crease and leave the eye lip bare.

Smudge the lower lash line with a medium grey or taupe shadow to com92

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pliment the cool toned look without making the eyes look too red or sickly.

Keep the shadow soft and blended, but stay within the eye socket. Dragging out the shadow too much will give a more editorial effect that might not be suitable for every day.

Add a pop of bronzer on the cheek to gently sculpt the face. No harsh contouring for this look! It’s all about the eyes. Finish with a nude gloss pressed into the lip to limit some of the shine.

Spritz with a fall scented setting spray and send your client out to brunch in this fresh fall look!

2. GILDED LIDS A gold eye is always in style. Luckily, there’s a gold for every skin tone, making this trend wearable for all. Two styles of gold lids take center stage for the fall season. Gold-foiled lids add a unique texture and interest to the classic gold look. The skin is kept bare, with natural brushed up brows and lightly

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Most of this season’s trends are totally wearable! concealed skin. This avant-garde look is elevated by the gold foil but brought back to reality with simple, clean skin.

The second gold look gracing the runways for fall is a shimmery gold shadow blended perfectly across the entire upper lip. Just a swipe of mascara and bare bottom lashes give this look its fresh, editorial feel.

Get The Look: This look is easy to achieve and totally wearable. Blend a shimmery gold shadow that complements your client’s skin tone across the lid and through

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image Fall Makeup Trends

the crease. This monochromatic eye look only requires one shadow and some mascara! Brush out the lashes for a separated effect, and comb brows upwards with a softly tinted brow gel.

Perfect your client’s skin with shadematching spot concealer, and powder for a matte finish. Apply a light lip balm to protect the lips from the winter weather, and you’re set!

perfectly lining models’ lips. Makeup artists chose liquid lip formulas for power-packed pigments, and extrahighlighted cupids bows to frame the lips with light.

The skin is kept fresh and dewy with a subtle pop of pink blush to complement the lips. For this look, the season’s trendsetting artists chose a light layer of sheer foundation, and a swipe of mascara to complete the look.

3. STATEMENT LIP There’s no better way to complement flawless, freshly exfoliated skin than with a bit of glow and a bold red lip.

Matte red is all the rage for fall, with cool-toned red and burgundy shades 94

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Get The Look: If you’ve noticed a theme so far, it’s that most of this season’s trends are totally wearable! Steal this look straight from the runway and give your client confidence to rock a bold lip.

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Carefully choose a matte liquid lip for extra staying power. For warmerskinned clients with a leftover summer glow, choose a neutral red or one that is slightly warm. Leave your orangey reds in your summer kit and choose as cool a red as you can for the client. Cool toned clients can rock a true, blue-toned red that is always a classic.

Add a light layer of sheer foundation, and spot conceal any blemishes.

Choose a peachy-pink blush to color the cheeks, and apply two to three coats of mascara to balance out the eyes. Set with a dewy finishing spray and a glass of champagne to see your client off to their holiday party!

image Fall Makeup Trends

Get The Look: With a heavy eye look, make sure your single shadow on top and bottom lids client’s skin is well prepped. Dark tones is enough to pull off the look. Clients on the eyes often accentuate any imwith deeper, brown eyes will love a perfections on the face, such as blemblack shadow added through the outishes, discoloration, and dryness. Start er corner to further intensify the look. on the eyes to eliminate any fallout inKeep the skin natural with minimal terfering with the base. Choose a metalblush or bronzer. A matte nude color lic, liquid-looking charcoal shadow and pressed into the lips will give an undeblend from the lash line, through the tectable pout! crease. Forsilcskin_ad-collette.pdf clients with light eyes, this 1 8/3/18 3:58 PM

C

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CM

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4. BRING BACK THE GRUNGE!

CMY

K

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Finally, shimmery charcoal eyes are back and we have never been more ready! Designers like Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs chose shimmering greys and blues to compliment their Fall collections. A smudged-out lower lash line added the cool-factor, as models with deep, brown eyes were totally feeling this look! Metallic charcoal shadow is swiped across the lids, and a deeper black is used in the outer corner for extra mystery and dimension. Keeping in trend, face makeup was kept light and undetectable, letting the eyes and clothes steal the show!

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ULTIMATE LIP TRIO

Dermaware’s new Lip Treatment Trio for Fall includes the Lip Peel Balm, Lip Beauty Balm and Lip Therapy Balm, all made of organic natural oils, enzymes, powerful vitamins and peptides to rejuvenate lips and plump lip lines and wrinkles around the mouth. Heal dry and environmentally damaged lips, improve texture, color and volume!

888.292.DERM Dermaware.com

EYE ENHANCING ELIXIR

G.M. Collin’s new Diamond Eye Contour is perfect for all skin types. This revolutionary new product illuminates the look of the eye area by visibly reducing the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, puffiness and dark circles. Diamond Eye Contour improves the appearance of firmness and tonicity of the skin with a divinely soft and precious elixir.

800.341.1531 gmcollin.com

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

MATTE ATTACK!

Lady Burd’s new Mattifying Foundation Primer is an oil-controlling primer that will refine pores and prep skin for a long lasting Flawless Matte Finish.

This primer can be worn alone or before or after foundation.

800.345.3448 ladyburd.com

A NEW GENERATION OF MASCARA

Finally, a new approach to mascara designed for women who want to look great but don’t have the time or the desire to “deal” with their makeup. Enter blinc Mascara, the pioneer of what the brand calls “tube technology.” When applied, blinc Mascara, formerly known as Kiss Me Mascara, forms tiny water resistant “tubes” around the lash, amplifying their volume and length.

877.454.7763 blincinc.com

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100.............. Altair Instruments........................................................................altairinstruments.com......................................... 243 21................ Advanced Medical Aesthetic Solution........................................meditimeusa.com............................................... 188 35................ Bella Schneider Beauty...............................................................bellaschneiderbeauty.com................................. 180 23................ Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics.....................................beauinstitute.com............................................... 167 80................ Bio France Lab............................................................................biofrancelab.com............................................... 331 6,7............... Bio-Therapeutic..........................................................................bio-therapeutic.com........................................... 139 95................ Calvet Cosmetics / Silc Skin.......................................................silcskin.com........................................................ 185 20................ Cannaisseur Brands....................................................................cannaisseurbrands.com..................................... 142 25...............CelleCle Skincare........................................................................CelleCleSkincare.com........................................ 351 93................ Celluma.......................................................................................biophotas.com................................................... 295 85................ Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc.........................................................dr-jeff.com.......................................................... 248 86................ Dermaswiss.................................................................................dermaswiss.com................................................ 245 63................ Dermaware..................................................................................dermaware.com................................................. 256 2,3............... Eminence Organic Skin Care......................................................eminenceorganics.com...................................... 157 79................ Environ/Rapidlash/Rocasuba......................................................rapidlash.com..................................................... 224 34................ 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LightStim International................................................................lightstim.com...................................................... 164 45................ Le Mieux - Bielle Cosmetics.......................................................biellecosmetics.com........................................... 294 43................ Lira Clinical..................................................................................liraclinical.com.................................................... 203 61................ Lucrèce Physician’s Aesthetic Research....................................lucrece.com........................................................ 263 81................ NuFree - Finipil............................................................................nufree-professionals.com................................... 348 97................ Rejuvi Laboratory........................................................................rejuvilab.com...................................................... 149 11................ Revitalash....................................................................................revitalash.com.................................................... 346 46................ Saian...........................................................................................saian.net............................................................. 165 12,13........... Satin Smooth..............................................................................satinsmooth.com................................................ 304 55................ Select Spa Source/Hairaway......................................................resinebyhairaway.com........................................ 253 42................ Silver Shell Beauty......................................................................silvershellbeauty.com......................................... 219 49................ TiZo............................................................................................tizofusion.com.................................................... 305 *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. 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