LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals September 2017
$7.50
Ask An Expert Katy Muenter, Product Research & Development Manager at Éminence and Marine Biologist, shares the benefits of natural ingredients for your skin and her expert knowledge of the Earth’s aquatic eco-system.
Algae provide high concentrations of nutrients and amino acids that replenish and deliver superior hydrating benefits P R O D U C T R E S E A R C H & D E V E LO P M E N T M A N AG E R A N D M A R I N E B I O LO G I S T K AT Y M U E N T E R
to the skin.
that use the energy from the sun to grow. These range in size from
I have a shellfish allergy. Can I use the products in the Marine Flower Peptide Collection?
a single cell to over 50 meters long, and can be found in every
The Marine Flower Peptide Collection does not contain any
environment on the planet, including marine intertidal zones, hot
shellfish or animal-derived ingredients. If you can swim in the
springs, and even within ice and snow. Algae have many unique
ocean, you should have no adverse reactions to any products in
adaptations that help protect them from environmental damage so
this collection. As always, we recommend conducting a patch test
they can survive in these extreme conditions. The Marine Flower
before using any new skin care product. If you have a sensitivity
Peptide products feature several innovative algae extracts that
to iodine, you should check with your allergist prior to use.
Are algae plants or animals? Neither! Algae are a special type of “photosynthetic” organism
impart these same powerful benefits to the skin!
Why are algae considered the “superfoods of the sea”? Algae provide high concentrations of nutrients and amino acids that replenish and deliver superior hydrating benefits to the skin. Just like land-based superfoods (such as blueberries and kale) are vibrant in color, the antioxidant pigments found in brightlycolored algae include chlorophyll and beta-carotene which naturally protect the skin.
Look for more great information about this and other Éminence collections by visiting: www.eminenceorganics.com/blog
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IMMERSE YOUR SKIN WITH MARINE FLOWER PEPTIDES
Smart Collagen+ Complex Doubles collagen density to visibly lift and fill wrinkles*
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In vivo results after 84 day clinical study
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from the
editor
Skin Care for life inside and out®
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®
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3 easy steps to beautiful skin
This month, as we are releasing a Special Guide on Skin Conditions, we take the opportunity to THANK YOU estheticians for your healing hands, your sense of community and your expertise at changing lives in more ways than one. You have the UNIQUE ability to improve and change the skin of so many people — not only through strong skills and carefully chosen products — but through the passion and love you share with your clients. The Skin Conditions Guide addresses the symptoms, aggravating factors and best treatment options for eczema and hyperpigmentation. Also, learn how to identify and treat the many different types of sensitive skin, and how to distinguish them from rosacea. In addition, take an in-depth look at how inflammation is tied to all skin conditions, and how to manage its impact. Also this month, join us at The International Congress of Esthetics & Spa in Long Beach on September 10-11 to gain invaluable new knowledge and skills to boost your career and reinvent your practice! In addition to our new lineup of cutting-edge lectures, demonstrations and conferences, we invite you to be even FURTHER inspired this year at the all-new SPA + WELLNESS SUMMIT, co-hosted by the congress from September 9-11. Learn to forge a stronger connection with your clients AND yourself as you uncover the keys to achieving mindfulness, happiness and implementing holistic healing into your client care. We encourage you to take part in this truly life changing event! We’ll see you there!
bio-therapeutic.com — Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@LNEonline.com September2017
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TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED
SKIN CARE
Skin Care for life inside and out®
bio-therapeutic.com
September volume 32 number 9
cover
As if you were on fire from within. The moon lives in the lining of your skin.
by Franck Provost 2017
Pablo Neruda
contents 20
Skin News
14 Magnetic Skin Care
guide
22 28 34 38 44 50
Is Skin Inflammation at the Root of Skin Conditions? Hyperpigmentation Skin Care What Type Of Sensitive Skin Is Your Client? How To Differentiate Between Rosacea And Sensitive Skin Eczema Spa Care Skin Conditions Photo Feature
A One Woman Spa With UNIQUE Secrets to Success
68
Boost Your Esthetician Retail Skills
74
Business News
68 Boost Your Esthetician Retail Skills Skin Care Properties of Black Seed Oil 80
Breast Health Massage!
86
Organic and Wellness News
80 Breast Health Massage!
21 Skin Conditions Guide 54
Spa Of The Month
88
Brow Business Success
60
Secret Spa Menu
90
Lash Tattoos
64
Spa News
96
Image News
60 Secret Spa Menu
image
spa
66
76
o&w
Magnetic Skin Care
skin
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business
6 From the Editor 98 Advertiser Index
90 Lash Tattoos
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, Florida 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@LNEonline.com Editorial Assistant & Social Media Partner Kristina Mazzenga kristina@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Designer Luis Bolaños luis@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer webdeveloper@LNEonline.com
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Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com
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International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Rhonda Allison Rose Marie Beauchemin Carrie Borzillo Shannon Esau
Natalie IovinoSchoenfeld Erik Lieux Melanie Sachs
Bella Schneider Vivian Shi, M.D. Amanda Clinton Winter Tina Zillmann
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
September2017
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The Next Level of Skincare
Visit Lira Clinical at
ICES
Long Beach, CA
September 10th &11th
Booth #309 & #311
RedeďŹ ning Solar Shield Technology Learn how Lira Clinical is Redefining Aesthetics and pioneering anti-aging technology with cutting edge sunscreens that combine the best of science and nature. Experience results-driven products and professional treatments.
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| 877.440.5472 | info@liraclinical.com
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MAGNETIC Skin Care Draw Your Clients in With the Latest Magnetic Skin Care Technology by Carrie Borzillo Dr. Oz calls magnet therapy a "revolutionary cure for pain," so it's no wonder that day spas and wellness centers around the world are embracing the unique, holistic healing modality. But, the use of magnets on the body goes beyond pain relief and into the field of anti-aging treatments for the face and body as well. Here is how six spas are using various forms of magnet therapy and magnetic skin care in their treatments...
Pulsed Electrical-Magnetic Field Therapy La Casa Spa & Wellness Center New York, N.Y. Pulsed Electrical-Magnetic Field (PEMF) Therapy (20 to 40 minutes, $90) is a holistic alternative for those seeking relief from chronic aches and pain, inflammation and migraines, as well as relief from such serious chronic illnesses as Lyme disease and
Parkinson's disease. It uses magnetic energy to change the way the body deals with pain, and to repair the body on a cellular level. "PEMF therapy works by shocking the cell with a magnetic current, thereby shaking loose the toxins from the membrane’s surface and re-balancing the positive ions outside and negative inside of the cell,� explains La Casa founder Jane G. Goldberg, Ph.D. “The re-stabilization of the cellular membrane potential increases cellular communication, energy production, nutrient uptake, detoxification and general cellular biome homeostasis. This therapy can increase the efficiency and efficacy of almost all other medical and energetic therapies." La Casa offers four methods of delivering PEMF to the body. The most popular device is the heavy-hitting Magna-Pulse, which they use both as part of their Intensive Colonics and as a stand-alone therapy.
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skin magnetic skin care
Water's Edge Signature Anti-Aging Treatment
Magnetic Reflexology
Water's Edge Resort & Spa Westbrook, Conn.
Body Sense Beauty Clinic Hyannis, Mass. Body Sense Beauty Clinic uses a penny-sized magnet with a suction cup on the hands and feet during the magnetic reflexology part of their Full Body Cupping with a Lymphatic Facial & Magnetic Reflexology service (90 minutes, $165) to help clients with everything from headaches and migraines to stress, post-operative pain and more. "Magnetic reflexology is a play between the acupuncture meridians, which run through the body from the feet to the hands,” says Katharine Young, a Registered Nurse with a Masters of Science in Natural Health, who offers Magnetic Reflexology at Body Sense. “The magnet goes right into that acupuncture meridian end point. It's different than acupuncture in that it's actually changing because the magnet has the power of two elements. If you just put an acupuncture needle in that spot, you get that reaction at the cellular level. But when the magnet goes on it, because it has a positive and negative component, it helps to balance that area." It can also be diagnostic. "Some people might feel a little zing or say 'ouch', which means it accessed something that needs to be looked at. For example, the ball of the foot relates to the lungs, so if the magnet hurts the ball of their feet, there might be an issue with the lungs to look at," Young explains.
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Increasing circulation brings more nutrients to the skin cells and aids lymphatic drainage.
There is also a smaller, pocketbook size unit that clients can purchase, a facial device, and a magnetic strip that can be placed on the back and abdomen during massages. "The key is to let the client know that to get the best results, you need frequent and extended treatments," Dr. Goldberg adds.
September2017
Water's Edge Resort & Spa uses magnets as part of their most popular facial, the 12-step Water's Edge Signature Anti-Aging Treatment (50 minutes, $150), in which iron particles are used to absorb dead skin cells and stimulate microcirculation with the aid of a magnet, helping to provide deep purification for a bright and youthful look. "The concentrated micro-spheres are removed with the aid of a magnet, which is the size and shape of a small remote control. It attracts and removes the iron particles, dragging out impurities and dead skin cells,” says lead therapist and esthetician Justine Kelley. “Afterwards, the skin feels silky smooth and richly moisturized. It contains 100 percent natural botanical ingredients. The effects are so immediate, one could have it done right before an event and look and feel fresh." This magnetic skin care facial is recommended for most skin types from delicate to blemished or chapped skin. "It's truly a unique experience and there seems to be a growing interest in magnet therapy," she adds.
Magnetic Infusion Facial Alvyday Spa Palos Park, Ill. Magnets powered by a computerized handset that sets the time and intensity deliver active ingredients deep into the skin during Alvyday Spa's Magnetic Infusion Facial (30 minutes, $90). This
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facial combines several modalities, including red and blue light therapies, micro-current technology, an exfoliating peel and more. As for the magnetic part, owner Alvyda Gudeniene explains, "We use disposable capsules containing specially formulated ingredients for rejuvenation, anti-aging and collagen infusion that are delivered through the magnets. We firm and tone the facial muscles with the Magnetic Pulse technology head that uses a double action method to increase blood circulation. Increasing circulation brings more nutrients to the skin cells and aids lymphatic drainage." Magnetic Infusion Facials can provide immediate results and clients can see and feel the difference in their skin, but for best results, this magnetic skin care treatment should be done once a week for six to eight weeks.
Mind Force Manipulation Therapy Alec Ian Day Spa Redlands, Calif. Alec Ian Day Spa's Mind Force Manipulation (approximately 60 minutes, $130) for two problem areas/conditions or $70 per one problem area/ condition) is a treatment for chronic pain and injuries that combines magnet therapy with acupressure, guided imagery, infrared heat, sports/deep massage and magnesium oil. Owner Sylvia Zavalza created this special treatment for musculoskeletal conditions, including all sorts of body pains, sciatica, fibromyalgia, sprains, whiplash, frozen shoulders and others. "It's great for anyone with chronic pain.
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skin magnetic skin care
The clients enjoy the treatment because they can see immediate effects. You can lie on a magnet therapy table for a minimum of 20 minutes and the pain significantly decreases or goes away completely," she says. The treatment table for this service has more than 100 magnets that can give the client a feeling of heightened sense of relaxation (as if floating) even before the treatment begins. "The magnets allow increased blood flow (capillary dilatation) to the muscles fibers, breaking up during the treatment. This allows the mechanical manipulation to be easier and almost no muscle soreness the day after," she adds.
A Unique Face Scrub that Harnesses the Powers of Magnetite Auberge de Beauté & Spa Provence, France Auberge de Beauté & Spa in France offers clients the La Vie à Vendome treatment (90 minutes, 95€ or approx. $110 USD), which combines manual and enzyme exfoliation, gentle face massage and magnetization for a unique experience that stimulates, plumps and lifts skin to achieve a luminous and extraordinarily smooth complexion. The key active principle in this exfoliating magnetic skin care treatment is the 100 percent natural magnetic particles from the mineral magnetite. The particles of the scrub, which also includes a synergistic blend of fruit acids, South American maca, olive oil and honey, are removed using a magnet that is slid along the skin without actually touching it. The magnetic parti-
cles fly off the skin, creating a weightless sensation. Spa Manager Jonathan Cohen explains how this unique magnetic removal works to leave the skin perfectly clean and smooth, “without the downsides of having leftover product residue on the skin." “The clients enjoy the treatment because they can see immediate effects,” explains Cohen, adding that the magnetic skin care therapy provides “a sensual experience as well as one that offers real results.”
Carrie Borzillo is an awardwinning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@ gmail.com.
Introducing your clients to Agera Labs has never been easier with the new 21 DAY TRIAL KITS - 3 complete home treatment skincare regimes to choose from! Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #221 on reader service card
All 3 kits feature Agera’s star product MagC Peptide Serum!
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Anti-Aging Recovery Skin Clarifying
September2017
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Magnetic Attraction
Feel the magnetic attraction! Attirance MagnĂŠtique from MySpa USA is the FIRST skin scrub with magnetic particles! This revolutionary formula contains original, natural and active magnetic particles for an ENERGY-based scrub that exfoliates, smooths and tones the skin. Working in complete synergy, this special combination of ingredients offers anti-aging and softening properties to leave skin silky and stunning!
239.699.5583 myspausa.com
Modeling Mask
ELMOLU's Premium line from JNS Costech introduces the Sherbert Modeling Mask! No water needed, this mask infused with hazel extract helps to strengthen skin, increase elasticity and make skin look and feel younger and tighter! Made with high quality extracts and unique technology, this mask also helps to energize the skin while moisturizing the skin with apricot extracts!
​562.991.3359 jnscostech.com PureCle Dx from Bellaire Industry is a patented 3D ultrasonic facial cleanser and massager. This lightweight, waterproof, cordless handheld device can be used to help decrease pore size, brighten the skin and improve tone and elasticity! The device's stainless steel head automatically adjusts to gently cleanse and massage each and every part of the face.
866.924.4868 bellaireindustry.com
Skin
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS
3D Deluxe Cleanse
Ginger, Please!
The Ginger Enzyme from Skin Script contains two percent salicylic and two percent mandelic acids to completely REFINE pores while brightening and exfoliating the skin! Infused with ginger, marbleberry, cinnamon and clove, this product can be used as an anti-inflammatory antioxidant and to stimulate microcirculation, creating a warming sensation on the skin!
480.543.1121 skinscriptrx.com
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THE ultimate guide to ALL the latest treatments and tools in skin care to calm and manage skin conditions‌
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IS
SKIN
INFLAMMATION AT THE ROOT OF SKIN CONDITIONS? Understanding Skin Inflammation in the Treatment Process by Rhonda Allison
Inflammation, like many things in life, has good and bad qualities. Though it’s commonly perceived as an undesirable response that’s harmful to the body, inflammation — including skin inflammation — does in fact contribute to the body’s defensive and healing process.
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SKIN CONDITIONS guide
During the inflammatory process, when plasma and leukocytes flood the area, several extracellular mediators and regulators are recruited to help control the process, including cytokines, growth factors and peptides. Which cells and mediators come to the site of injury or infection depends on numerous factors, including: • The stage of the inflation (the initiating event) • The type of pathogen (chemical, physical injury or auto-immune) • The tissue or organ involved • Whether the inflammation is acute or chronic
It’s easy to perceive inflammation as a concern because it’s commonly associated with infections, wounds and increased susceptibility to other diseases. Up until the end of the 19th century, inflammation was thought to be extremely harmful to the body. At that point, important research revealed inflammation to be part of the body’s natural defense and healing process, and an important indicator of injury and disease. Inflammation is a very complex part of the biological process, signaling the body to begin the healing process. Without inflammation receptors, wounds and infections would not heal. Inflammation becomes dangerous, however, when it is chronic, as this is when skin conditions like acne, psoriasis, eczema, aging and hyperpigmentation manifest. 24
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Understanding inflammation There are two classifications of inflammation: acute and chronic. Acute is the body’s first response to initiate healing and it is critical to repair. Chronic is prolonged inflammation –– it’s a constant part of the physiology, or when the immune system mistakenly attacks normal tissues, and it has been linked as a primary contributor to most of the challenges that plague the skin. Several decades ago, scientists Albert Kligman, M.D., and Robert Lavker, Ph.D., suggested chronic inflammation was at the root of many cutaneous and systemic diseases, and this theory has since been scientifically accepted. Aging, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, and eczema are a few skin conditions that can also be traced to chronic inflammation.
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This is important to note because of inflammation’s role in the healing, restorative process. We now know it supports the skin and body from initiation through to restoration of normal appearance and function. However, when the issue is chronic, this is not the case, and understanding the type of inflammation you are dealing with is key to helping clients resolve it. There are five principal indicators of inflammation, including pain, heat, redness, swelling and loss of function. Aside from indicators, however, inflammation may reveal itself in the form of a skin disorder.
Inflammation and skin issues Aging There are numerous stimuli that induce inflammation including burns, over exposure to UV rays, stress, trauma, toxins, medications, alcohol, immune reactions and infection by pathogens, foreign bodies such as dirt and debris… the list goes on. Skin inflammation caused by free radicals, however, degrades cells and slows collagen production. When this persists over time, it inhibits the body’s natural ability to repair itself, which in turn causes visual signs of aging.
SKIN CONDITIONS guide When this is the case for clients, it’s best to eliminate as many of the proinflammatory stimuli as possible, and increase antioxidant and anti-inflammatory support. In the treatment room, enzymes and peels with ingredients such as cherry seed oil, turmeric, mandelic acid, L-lactic acid, azelaic acid, ursolic acid and salicylic acid deliver both. Topical antioxidants such as superoxide dismutase, resveratrol, heart of green tea and grapeseed extracts may be used at home to further support the healing process.
Acne While the cause of acne remains a relative unknown, there is data that indicates acne vulgaris is a primary inflammatory disease, with much evidence suggesting that inflammation occurs at all stages of acne lesion development. Though there’s been much debate over the years about at which stage inflammation is involved, more recent research suggests inflammatory events may also be present in early acne development, even prior to the formation of a comedone or acne lesion. Regardless of the stage at which inflammation is a factor, research has consistently shown that treatments that aim to provide anti-inflammatory support are effective in healing and repairing acne conditions. Ingredients such as retinol have proven effective for comedonal acne, and in conditions where chronic inflammation is present, combining retinols with an anti-inflammatory such as turmeric, salicylic acid, totarol, heart of green tea, mandelic acid or ursolic acid suppresses acne flare-ups while preventing the formation of additional microcomedones.
microdermabrasion. This is typically temporary and is more common in skin of color, but something to be aware of in all skin types. When injury to the skin is more severe, it may result in postinflammatory hypopigmentation, which is usually permanent. When skin inflammation occurs in the epidermis, it stimulates melanocytes to increase melanin synthesis. The pigment then transfers to surrounding keratinocytes. If the basal layer is injured, melanin pigment is released and may become trapped. Melanin suppressants such as azelaic acid and kojic acid are helpful in minimizing PIH, as is antibacterial and antioxidant support. For other forms of hyperpigmentation, one of the most common causes is the sun. This, incidentally, is also an inflammatory trigger. Prevention is key, so urge clients to use a broad-spectrum SPF with a mineral base such as natural zinc. Other ingredients for supporting hyperpigmented skin and reducing skin inflammation include salicylic acid, L-arbutin, mandelic acid, licorice root, and naturally occurring acids from tomatoes, which also delivers antioxidant support.
Rosacea Rosacea is a chronic and progressive disorder that may first be noticed as redness in the cheeks, nose, chin or forehead. While the cause is unknown,
some research has shown it to be triggered by chronic and heightened inflammation levels. There are also different stages of rosacea. The first stage often manifests as frequent blushing or flushing when the skin becomes irritated by certain topicals, acne medications, chemical-based sunscreens and improper care and protection. The second and third stages are more chronic, with the second appearing as continuous reddening and expanded and surfaced capillaries. Papules or pustules may also appear. The third stage is a deep, persistent redness, often accompanied by dilated blood vessels, particularly around the nose. It is a systemic issue, and often requires addressing a deeper root issue. In the treatment room, the goal for rosacea clients is to provide strengthening support without over stimulating the underlying inflammation. Stimulating circulation and lymphatic flow, along with low-strength AHAs, BHAs and retinols, and antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial ingredients such as essential fatty acids, growth factors, rhodiola root, sea buckthorn, mandelic acid, organic stem cells and probiotics help bring rosacea skin back to optimal health. Also talk to clients about their diet, as some recent studies have shown an association between skin disorders such as rosacea and inflammation in the gastrointestinal tract.
Hyperpigmentation Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) commonly occurs as a result of skin inflammation due to acne, irritations, misuse or overuse of certain skin products, or over-stimulation from a corrective treatment such as a peel or LNEonline.com
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SKIN CONDITIONS guide Psoriasis
Eczema Also referred to as atopic dermatitis, eczema impacts more than 30 million Americans. It appears on the skin as a red rash and may occur anywhere on the body. It is commonly confused with psoriasis, as both appear similarly in the skin. Like psoriasis, there is no known cause. If there’s any question as to what the condition may be, refer the client to a physician or dermatologist. The goal with skin impacted by eczema or psoriasis is to heal, nourish and hydrate. Look to ingredients with anti-inflammatory properties such as linoleic and oleic acids, hyaluronic acid, arnica montana, witch hazel and growth factors.
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While the exact cause of psoriasis isn’t fully understood, the red, flaky plaques are thought to be caused by chronic inflammation by way of an immune system disorder in which T cells and other white blood cells like cytokines (the body’s defenders) attack healthy skin cells by mistake. In psoriatic conditions, T cells have shown to become overactive, increasing the production of healthy cells as part of the inflammatory process to fight off what it perceives to be an offender. This stimulates the production of cytokines, which proliferates blood cell formation. These become dilated, creating warmth and redness. As the cycle continues, new skin cells move to the outermost layer of the skin too quickly, causing cells to build up, resulting in thick, scaly patches on the skin’s surface.
If you detect psoriasis in your client, direct them to a physician right away, as psoriatic arthritis may manifest within five to 10 years following skin presentation.
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While there is so much that we can do in the treatment room, the skin is an indicator or reflection of our overall health. Any of these skin issues could be a sign of inflammation occurring elsewhere in the body. Refer clients to a nutritionist or doctor to get to the root of underlying issues such as not properly digesting nutrients, food sensitivities or allergies, hormonal balance, and other systemic problems as a complement to your services.
Rhonda Allison, a pioneer in the skin care industry, is the founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals and RA for Men. She is also an author and internationally known speaker with more than 30 years of esthetic experience. For more information, visit: RhondaAllison.com and ramethod.com.
Excessive inflammation, dehydration, visible capillaries, increased sensitivity, erythema, or dullness with the skin. These are just a few signs of a Compromised Barrier in need of repair. Rhonda Allison’s 2017 CBR Facial & Peel Restores the Epidermal Barrier/Infuses Skin with Nutrients, Moisture-Binding & Building Ingredients/Soothes, Nourishes & Reduces Redness/Hydrates, Protects & Revitalizes
With three-times the power of regular Vitamin C to protect, firm & brighten. Visit us at rhondaallison.com | 866-313-SKIN (7546) Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #190 on reader service card
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Whether it’s in the form of a freckle, beauty mark or mole, most of us have come across hyperpigmentation on our skin at some point in our lives, emphasizing the need for hyperpigmentation skin care. But what exactly causes it? These unwelcome spots are due to an increase of skin melanin, the natural substance that gives skin its color and causes pigment or darkening of the skin. Internal factors that can cause this are hormones, stress, nutrition, medical treatments and anything else that changes the body’s natural regulatory functions. External factors that lead to hyperpigmentation are typically caused by the environment, such as exposure to harsh weather conditions, the sun, sport routines, and even physical touching and rubbing of the skin. Allergies, climate, clothing, chemicals and heat can all provoke different forms of hyperpigmentation.
HYPERPIGMENTATION
SKIN CARE Types, identification, services and solutions for treating hyperpigmentation in your practice by Bella Schneider LNEonline.com
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SKIN CONDITIONS guide
• Stretch marks are fine lines that appear on the skin in response to rapid body changes such as growth and weight gain. They usually appear in women or adolescent girls with darker skins as a result of weight fluctuation, hormone changes, pregnancy and puberty. Skin strength and genetics are to blame. As the skin adapts to fast and continuous growth, it doesn’t always have enough time to adequately stretch. Or the women produce more hormones relaxing the bond between the collagen fibers in the skin, causing tears to form.
COSMETIC SOLUTIONS
While a little girl with freckles sprinkled across her nose and cheeks is adorable, the same might not be said for a woman in her 40s! Hyperpigmentation is seeing a revival, both in incidence and treatment due to changes in environmental factors and lifestyles such as harsher sun rays, hormone therapies and birth control pills and an industry highly aware of its financial potential.
THE MULTIPLE FORMS OF HYPERPIGMENTATION • Age or liver spots are light to dark brown spots that appear on the face, chest and back of the arms and hands, usually caused by sun exposure. They appear as small, flat, dark spots in exposed areas. This condition appears most frequently in Caucasians over the age of 40. • Sunspots and freckles are light to dark brown, red or black concentrated small spots caused by a combination of genetics and sun damage. Fair-skinned individuals, people with blonde or red hair and/or light eyes are more prone to freckling than individuals with darker skin. 30
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• Moles are brown or black skin spots that are darker than the rest of the skin. They are symmetrical, smaller than a pencil eraser, are un-raised and have smooth edges. Whereas melanoma moles are asymmetrical, have irregular borders, an uneven distribution of color and are large in diameter. • Melasma is a patchy light to medium brown discoloration inconsistent in shape and size on the cheeks, sides of the face, upper part of the nose, forehead and above the lip. Melasma is caused partly by sun, genetic predisposition and hormonal changes such as pregnancy or as a result of hormonal pills like birth control. It most commonly affects 20 to 50 year-old women of Asian, Latino, Caribbean and Middle Eastern descent. • Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation occurs when skin, particularly in the facial area, is inflamed due to cutaneous trauma such as a burn, eczema, psoriasis, mole removal or other conditions. It appears as pink, red or flat brown spots, particularly in naturally darker skin types or ethnicities.
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There is a slew of great ingredients for hyperpigmentation skin care in the marketplace. Be aware that organicsensitive and information-exposed consumers have heightened concerns about powerful older ingredients such as vitamin As or hydroquinone. So become savvy at mixing ingredients in a way that is both effective and gentle on skin. The key to hyperpigmentation skin care is both prevention and treatment. A generally sun careful lifestyle is key to prevention. For maximum protection, apply SPF 30 in the morning and reapply during the day. Combine toning, lightening and exfoliating products and target them to the individual's skin type, manifestation, genetics and lifestyle. • Topical vitamin A is a vital solution to improve hyperpigmentation including post inflammatory types and stretch marks. It resurfaces skin, increases cell turnover, lifts, exfoliates and stimulates collagen production. • Combine vitamin C and peptides for prevention. Peptides heal, repair skin damage and encourage skin remodeling. Vitamin C decreases melanin production, inhibits tyrosinase and lightens. This combination improves collagen and fiber productions.
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SKIN CONDITIONS guide
Clients should opt for a series of six or more hyperpigmentation skin care treatments. • AHAs, BHAs, kojic and mandelic acids as well as fruit enzymes and other forms of natural and chemical exfoliants boost cell turnover and encourage melanin to wash out of the skin. This helps remove damaged skin cells, promotes reorganization of the epidermis and improves skin texture and clarity. Exfoliants enhance the effectiveness of other ingredients, such as hydroquinone, other tyrosinase inhibitors, and vitamin A and its derivatives (retinol and retinoic acid). • Topical lighteners such as hydroquinone are excellent hyperpigmentation skin care ingredients. They suppress surface-level melanocytes, which produce skin-cell pigment and lighten the skin. They are available over-the-counter and in medical grades and come in various types. Arbutin is a more gentle form of hydroquinone. Natural whitening agents that are soothing yet effective include licorice extract, pearl crush (which contains calcium carbonate and trace minerals), rice water (which contains para aminobenzoic acid), soy and Swiss sprout. • Moisturizers are essential to maintain skin elasticity and promote skin healing particularly in the case of stretch marks, inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and sun-damage induced hyperpigmentation. Skin must be well nourished and hydrated in order 32
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to maintain its elasticity. Moisturizers with shea butter, cocoa butter, coconut, olive or argan oil and aloe vera are top picks for hyperpigmentation skin care due to their healing properties. Finally, steroid creams come in several strengths and are used mostly in medical grades by dermatologists who can prescribe the strength best suited for pigmentation problems.
IN-SPA HYPERPIGMENTATION TREATMENTS Prescribe each client with a targeted program based on skin type, lifestyle, background, presenting problem and ethnicity. Combine these factors to personalize professional peels, brightening facials and an at-home complete care program. Take everything into consideration and advise clients that they can expect to see transformation and results within three to six months. Create a targeted program that combines skin rejuvenating anti-aging facials, exfoliating and brightening for better results than what they can get on their own over-the-counter. Estheticians must be experienced and well trained in accordance with individual state licensing. • Microneedling, Laser and Chemical Peels For a more clinical approach, create a treatment that combines micronee-
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dling and brightening facials. Med-spas can also include IPL laser treatment. Combining these treatments in one session provides more concentrated results by stimulating collagen, improving texture, removing and blending the pigment. Use high-dose brightening agents in-treatment, compounded with high strength at-home formulations with lighteners and retinols. Alternate between chemical peels and microneedling, and follow up with lighteners to blend and remove damaged skin. • Au Naturel For clients that want hyperpigmentation skin care treatments a little closer to nature, there are also power-packed solutions. Begin with a series of herbal peels and alternate with dermaplaning, botanical lighteners, and follow with brightening masks. • Frequency of Treatment Clients should opt for a series of six or more hyperpigmentation skin care treatments in conjunction with proper at-home routines for maximum results. Laser treatments destroy the cells that create dark pigmentation while leaving the skin's surface unharmed. However, all forms of hyperpigmentation fade gradually over several weeks following treatment. Between treatments, it is essential for clients to wear sunscreen and avoid sun exposure. The good news is that hyperpigmentation can be avoided and erased, just like pencil marks on paper! With the right education and modalities at your disposal, you can help your clients prevent and treat any hyperpigmentation issues they are experiencing.
Bella Schneider is the founder and CEO of LaBelle Day Spas & Salons and an international product formulator and distributor through Bella Schneider Beauty (BSB). In her 40 years of experience in skin care science, Schneider has been an innovator in ethnic skin care, peels and peer education.
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WHAT TYPE OF SENSITIVE SKIN IS YOUR CLIENT?
A Comprehensive Guide for the Esthetician by Tina Zillmann
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“Sensitive” is a word commonly
used in skin care to describe an individual’s skin type. Research indicates that about 50 percent of women and 30 percent of men identify as having sensitive skin. But what does it really mean to have sensitive skin? Sensitivity is one symptom of rosacea (see related article on page 38), but not all skin types that are sensitive have a skin condition like rosacea, eczema, dermatitis, etc. Sensitivity is a very misunderstood skin concern. There are many different types of sensitive skin, and each is characterized by unique symptoms and requires customized care.
to sensitivity. Conditions like rosacea or psoriasis may develop from both inherited and environmental factors. Generalized sensitivity can have specific or broad triggers. The best way to determine one’s individual triggers is to temporarily quit their home care routine. Once the inflammation has subsided, they can restart their regimen with a gentle cleanser. After several days, if the skin is calm and balanced, a moisturizer can be added. The client should rebuild their regimen over a four to six week period. This gradual product introduction allows them to identify specific triggers.
VERY SENSITIVE SKIN:
Treatment
Reactive to a variety of triggers Symptoms An individual with a truly sensitive skin type experiences painful or uncomfortable sensations accompanied by physical responses to a trigger. Common symptoms include localized areas of flushing or redness, burning or itching, and dry scaly patches. Generally, individuals who experience asthma or seasonal allergies, or have a history of eczema, may be more sensitive to inflammation in the form of dermatitis on the face, scalp and/or body. Rosacea is a type of skin sensitivity that displays the common signs of inflammation with visible broken blood vessels and, in some cases, skin thickening or acne. When rosacea symptoms are not managed early, it leads to sensitized skin.
Sensitive skin needs anti-inflammatory support, little-to-no stimulation and an esthetician’s guidance. An ultrasonic facial that exfoliates the skin without triggering inflammation, assists with extractions, infuses anti-inflammatory ingredients and hydrates is a great option. Avoid chemical peel solutions, steam and hot towels, microdermabrasion, lasers and IPL. Post treatment care includes a simplistic sensitive skin regimen and optimal sun care.
Ingredients A home regimen should incorporate multitasking products to avoid overstimulating the skin with too many products. Select ingredients that deliver fatty acids, vitamins that address inflammation and enzymes that help improve texture for sensitivity and rosacea.
Causes and triggers Each person has unique responses to environmental, topical or internal inflammatory triggers. Most productinduced inflammatory reactions occur within 24 hours, however when a client uses the same product for many years, their immune system becomes hypersensitive over time, building up
Nutrition A great dietary rule for clients is to reduce inflammation and improve barrier function from the inside-out. Encourage sensitive skin clients to increase their intake of beneficial fatty acids and antioxidants, and avoid caffeine and spicy foods.
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SKIN CONDITIONS guide sun exposure, outdoor activities, exercise, saunas, steam rooms and anything else that increases body heat can also aggravate flushing, sensitivity and prolonged inflammation. *** When a skin condition is painful, advise clients to see a medical professional to identify the cause of inflammation and receive fast relief. This is especially important when an individual undergoes a medical esthetic procedure, like laser resurfacing or microneedling. Sensitized skin could also be a sign of a severe allergy, autoimmune disease or infection.
ENVIRONMENTAL:
Occasional blushing/flushing dermatitis, psoriasis or eczema, and should be diagnosed by a physician.
Contraindications
Symptoms
This skin care regimen should be reduced to it’s bare necessities, as even products they’ve been using for years can have a cumulative inflammatory effect and trigger sensitized skin. If use of a product is the cause of sensitized skin, it should heal within a couple of months.
Rosacea skin types are often identified as flushing in response to spicy foods and heat, however facial flushing does not necessarily indicate rosacea or sensitive skin. There are three pigments in the skin that give it color: melanin, hemoglobin and carotenes. If your client’s skin has a tendency to flush (face and body), it’s likely due to higher levels of hemoglobin and/or an increase in the number (or diameter) of skin capillaries.
SENSITIZED/REACTIVE:
Ingredients
Causes and triggers
Symptoms
This client’s simple routine should consist of a gentle cleanser and zinc sunscreen. An OTC topical corticosteroid, antihistamine and/or a cool compress can help manage inflammation.
Excessive flushing and redness is a condition that cannot be reversed. However certain triggers can aggravate the symptoms. The most common are exercise, spicy foods, alcohol, heat and intense emotions. Prolonged sun
Addressing chronic sensitivity requires a commitment to change. Once your client has identified potential sources of inflammatory triggers — dietary, environmental and topical — they must avoid them as much as possible. When selecting products for their skin in the treatment room, first test patch them on skin at the crease of their nose before applying to the entire face.
Strong inflammatory response
This type of skin experiences a severe and painful inflammatory response from some kind of trauma.
Treatment
Nutrition Causes and triggers Sensitized skin usually happens within a short period of time due to overuse of skin care products or the wrong product combination. For example, individuals who suffer from acne have an increased tendency to sensitize their skin by overusing benzoyl peroxide, retinol or other prescriptions. Over-use of exfoliants can increase sensitivity in all skin types, and pairing over-exfoliated skin with sunburn can cause painful inflammation. Sensitized skin of the scalp and other areas of the body can be the result of 36
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Advise clients to consume plenty of fruits and dark leafy greens for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. Avoid inflammation-triggering foods like soda, fried foods and refined carbohydrates. If the client's sensitized skin is a medical condition, an elimination diet can help identify any foodrelated inflammatory triggers.
Contraindications When skin is highly sensitized and painful, most products are considered contraindications. In addition, prolonged
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PRODUCTS TO AVOID WITH SENSITIVE SKIN TYPES Bar cleansers and soaps Scrubs Loofahs Facial brushes Drying/oil control toners Steam/hot towels Fragrances Hydroxy acids Retinols L-Ascorbic acid
SKIN CONDITIONS guide
Each individual responds in a unique way to specific ingredients, and responses may only happen when the skin experiences specific environmental changes. exposure and sun damage are the most important triggers for flushing clients to avoid to prevent future harm.
Treatment IPL photo facials, lactic peel treatments and ultrasonic rejuvenation can help calm redness and prevent worsening of the condition. Multiple sessions of IPL may be required to achieve initial results, followed by routine procedures of varying frequency to maintain results.
experience sensitivity from heightened sensory receptors. These receptors are also expressed in keratinocytes and can be responsive to skin care products and the environment.
Causes and triggers Each individual responds in a unique way to specific ingredients, and responses may only happen when the skin experiences specific environmental changes.
Treatment Ingredients Redness is primarily a vascular concern, so practicing optimal sun care helps prevent increased redness. Chronic sun damage contributes to thickening of the epidermal layers and the capillaries needed to nourish these layers, causing more redness. A comprehensive sun care regimen includes a sunscreen and antioxidant serum.
Nutrition Advise flushing skin clients to consume antioxidant-rich foods to help improve blood circulation.
There’s no specific treatment available to remedy delicate skin, however there is no limit to treatment options appropriate for this skin type, including peels and high tech treatments.
Contraindications Hydroxy acids and retinols are the primary culprits that cause a delicate skin type to respond, but L-ascorbic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and enzymes can also trigger a response in delicate skin. Test patch skin care products at the crease of the nose before applying them to the rest of the face to identify the specific triggers for each individual.
Contraindications Never administer microdermabrasion (neither crystal or crystal free) for skin with textural concerns or sun damage, as it can worsen redness.
DELICATE:
Sensitive, but not responsive
Symptoms Tingling, burning, stinging or itching are common symptoms. There are no visual clues that indicate an inflammatory response is happening — because there aren’t any. Delicate skin types may
Tina Zillmann is a practicing esthetician and licensed hair removal professional with expertise on innovative esthetic treatments and post-surgical care. She is vice president and director of Skin Rejuvenation Clinique, Inc. and Advanced Rejuvenating Concepts. Zillmann was a recipient of the Female Entrepreneur of the Year award through the National Association of Women Business Owners. She served as the president of the Aesthetic International Association from 2009-2010, and was an advisory board member for the American Electrology Association.
CLIENT CONSULTATION TO DETECT SENSITIVITY While it can be hard for an esthetician to detect sensitivity, the following questions can help determine if sensitivity is truly what your client is experiencing: Do you get red, blush, or flush easily? Have you noticed any changes in your skin when you physically exert yourself or consume spicy foods or hot beverages? Are you using any exfoliants? How does your skin react to exfoliants? Are you sensitive to any skin products or ingredients that you know of? If clients are sensitive or having a reaction, follow up with this question: Is there redness anywhere other than your face? The spread of a reaction to other areas such as the scalp, neck or body can be indicative of a condition that needs medical care, like psoriasis, eczema or dermatitis. Estheticians must be aware of these conditions so that they can deliver the right treatment, or no treatment at all until the condition is managed.
References • H. Lev-Tov, H. Maiback. (Nov-Dec 2012). The Sensitive Skin Syndrome. Indian Journal of Dermatology. 57(6): 419-423. • M. Farage, A. Katsarou, H. Maibach. (July 2006). Sensory, clinical and physiological factors in sensitive skin: a review. Contact Dermatitis. (55)1, 1-14. • S. Stander, S. Schneider, C. Weishaupt, L. Misery. (May 2009) Putative neuronal mechanisms of sensitive skin. Experimental Dermatology. (18)5, 417-423.
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How to Differentiate
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Rosacea And Sensitive Skin September2017
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A complete overview of rosacea and sensitive skin for estheticians by Shannon Esau There are more than 16 million rosacea sufferers in America alone, and millions more who have what is termed “sensitive” skin. Unfortunately, there are many misnomers surrounding these two skin types. In fact, the term “sensitive,” in relation to skin type, is commonly misunderstood and overused. While sensitive skin has similar characteristics, rosacea and sensitive skin are often confused. In the treatment room, proper diagnosis is imperative. Being able to differentiate between skin sensitivities and other issues that have similar characteristics to sensitive skin is the first step of being able to map out an effective course of action and safely restore a client’s skin to optimum health. In both rosacea and sensitive skin, the barrier has been compromised, and so it is essential to focus on the health of epidermis cells.
IDENTIFYING SENSITIVE SKIN Skin is a reactive mechanism that responds to various elements and disturbances inside and out, and all skin has a degree of sensitivity. The level of reaction is what determines whether a skin is truly sensitive or not. Sensitive skin can be caused by outside elements such as heavily polluted environments, harsh weather conditions, overly aggressive treatments, a weakened immune system or declining health. Truly sensitive skin easily reddens, stings, itches or develops rash in re-
sponse to an outside influence. While all skin reacts to external factors such as pollution, sun, wind and smoking, sensitive skin overreacts to these elements. Sensitive skin also tends to be thinner, and more prone to fragile capillaries than average skin. It is important to determine when your client’s skin became sensitive. If they have been sensitive for nearly their entire life, they may be rosacea-prone or have a very compromised immune system. Most individuals with truly sensitive skin — and not rosacea — can identify when they started becoming more sensitive. Most sensitive skins tend to react to inferior ingredients or formulations, such as those that contain dyes, preservatives or perfumes. It is not a chronic issue, but rather a reaction that subsides once the offending element has been eliminated and inflammation is calmed. In cases in which the skin is sensitive, it’s possible to bring it to a healthy, strengthened, less sensitive state over time.
HOW TO DETECT ROSACEA SKIN Rosacea is a chronic and progressive disorder that may first be noticed as redness on the cheeks, nose, chin or forehead that comes and goes. There are different stages of rosacea, the first of which often manifests in the form of frequent blushing or flushing. The second stage appears as a continuous reddening of the skin. Expanded surfaced capillaries and papules or pustules may also appear. LNEonline.com
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SKIN CONDITIONS guide
The third stage is a deep, persistent redness often accompanied by dilated veins particularly around the nose. An early sign is fibroplasia (excess tissue growth), which may produce enlarged pores. While the cause of rosacea is officially unknown, research has attributed it to bad bacteria in the gut, poor circulation, sluggish lymph, genetic predisposition, digestive disorders and excessive demodex mites attached to cells. It’s a systemic issue and often requires a deeper root issue to be addressed in addition to treatments designed to bring skin back to optimal health. While there’s no cure for rosacea, early diagnosis prevents the disorder from developing to stage three and allows it to be more easily managed. Because rosacea stems from a systemic disorder, signs appear on the skin and can avoid developing into further stages when addressed with targeted, gentle anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and skinstrengthening ingredients and treatments.
IN THE TREATMENT ROOM Both rosacea and sensitive skin require a personalized approach to fit the exact needs of the skin.
Treating Sensitive Skin The goal for sensitive skin is to strengthen it, improve cell immunity and reduce inflammation. Sensitive skins typically tolerate beta acids and retinols better than AHAs. Flower acids can also be supportive as they do not cause skin irritation. This combination allows the cell regeneration to begin, and can then be followed with retinols or beta acid peels. A series of progressive vitamin A peels can begin to strengthen skin integrity and desensitize the skin, bringing it to a less reactive state. It is very important not to over exfoliate sensitive skin.
Treating Rosacea The goal for rosacea clients is to reduce redness, inflammation and excessive mites while strengthening the skin. This is achieved primarily through the use of “rosacea friendly” ingredients described below, and certain facials, peels and techniques that increase overall circulation, such as oxygen applications and stimulating the lymphatic system. Since most rosacea skin is AHA sensitive, BHAs, mandelic acid, bromelain, milk proteins and retinols are good choices for the treatment room. Rosacea skin also benefits greatly from a series of antiinflammatory, antibacterial and nutrient-rich facials. Peels can be helpful since they stimulate new cell growth, collagen and elastin, and kick inflammatory receptors into overdrive. Other great ingredients for rosacea are probiotics, arginine, essential fatty acids, sea buckthorn oil, vitamin E, stem cells and growth factors. 40
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Avoid extreme heat and cold. Inflammation and redness can be reduced by gently rolling chilled ice globes over gauze covering the skin during the treatment. Always finish with a mineral-based protection formula. Stimulating lymphatic flow also works wonders for those challenged by rosacea or inflammation. When the lymph is clogged, it becomes more difficult for the body to purify and cleanse itself, the effects of which can become visible in the skin. This precise skin movement technique occurs at the surface level of the skin, and doesn’t involve moving any of the tissue underneath the skin. It simply stimulates the lymph (the fluid in the lymphatic system that comprises white blood cells that attack bacteria in the blood) to move more efficiently.
ROSACEA AND SENSITIVE SKIN HOME CARE Both rosacea and sensitive skin clients must be educated on the importance of proper home care and the impact of lifestyle choices on their skin health.
Rosacea home care Skin care regimens for rosacea must be simple and targeted. Green tea, arginine, sea buckthorn oil, edelweiss and gardenia stem cells all help reduce inflammation and redness. Mandelic acid, totarol and salicylic acid are great ingredients to combat bacteria and add healing support. Omega
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SKIN CONDITIONS guide essential fatty acids help protect the cellular wall, reduce inflammation, nourish and hydrate. Vitamin A and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) can help strengthen capillary walls, support cellular immunity and increase collagen and elastin synthesis. Remind rosacea clients never to go to bed with makeup! This increases bacteria and can cause symptoms to flare. The two primary contributing factors to consider for clients with rosacea beyond daily care and topicals are stress and inflammation. When the body is under stress, the immune system weakens, which can cause the inflammation that wreaks havoc in the body and aggravate skin. Advise rosacea clients to avoid stress and this resulting inflammation with adequate sleep, exercise and taking time to rejuvenate. A diet packed with antioxidant-rich and inflammation-fighting foods also helps to support a healthy immune system and counteract the effects of free radical exposure, which also triggers inflammation and leads to more visible rosacea.
Sensitive skin home care
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Many of the same factors that impact rosacea also impact sensitive skins. Talk to clients about healthy lifestyle habits, and advise them to integrate chirally correct ingredients into their home regimen to offset free-radical damage and inflammation and strengthen the skin. Great topical ingredient choices for sensitive skins include growth factors, essential fatty acids, superoxide dismutase, uric acid, retinal with stem cells for rejuvenation, and ingredients that provide anti-inflammatory and healing support. Sun protection is essential for all skin types and conditions, but especially for clients with rosacea and sensitive skin. A natural physical block like zinc offers important antioxidant and mineral support without irritating the skin. Eliminate topical offenders such as fragrances, dyes and certain preservatives to avoid triggering and worsening these skin issues. Remain knowledgeable of the signs of rosacea and sensitive skin, and educate clients on how to manage each of these conditions to correct or subdue the signs. With the right education, tools and client compliance, estheticians are well equipped to handle rosacea and sensitive skin conditions.
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Shannon Esau is the director of sales and education at Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals. She has more than 17 years of experience in the esthetic industry. Esau completed advanced chemistry studies and has expertise in research and development of skin care formulations. She has also owned skin clinics in Texas, and received mentoring by Rhonda Allison for decades. For more information visit RhondaAllison.com and RAmethod.com.
September2017
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ECZEMA
SPACARE What you need to know about treating eczema in your practice by Vivian Shi, M.D.
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E
czema is a common term for “dermatitis,” or skin inflammation. In a strictly medical definition, eczema is synonymous with atopic dermatitis, a common inflammatory skin condition that affects up to 20 percent of children and three percent of adults worldwide. The word “eczema” stems from the ancient Greek word (έκζεμα), which means “boiling over,” describing how eczema affected skin has intensely itchy, inflamed, red to pink plaques, one of the symptoms addressed in eczema spa care. The most commonly affected areas in adults are the face, neck, hands, elbow pits and back of the knees. In darkly pigmented skin, eczema can have a purple to brown hue. In acute eczema, the skin is swollen and weepy. In chronic eczema, the skin is thickened and occasionally has fine fissures. After skin inflammation resolves, there may be residual skin pigment changes called postinflammatory hypo- or hyperpigmentation (PIH). Hypopigmentation is where the skin is lighter than the normal skin tone, whereas hyperpigmentation is where the skin is darker than the normal skin tone and may look like bruises on those with darker skin. Eczema is commonly known as the “itch that rashes.” Itching typically comes before any visible skin rash and is worsened by scratching and further irritation. Burning and stinging sensations are common when the skin is further injured from rubbing and scratching. Compared to healthy skin, eczema skin lacks compounds that naturally fight bacteria, such as beta-defensin, and is therefore more prone to infections.
Spot Those Eczema Mimickers Eczema spa care begins with proper identification of the condition by the esthetician, which can mimic several other inflammatory skin conditions. Seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff with skin inflammation) can appear as red, dry, scaly patches in the hair-bearing areas such as scalp, ears, on or in-between eyebrows, folds around the nose and cheeks, and central chest. The scales are greasy, slightly yellow and stick to the skin. In addition to atopic dermatitis, other “eczemas” that beauty professionals may commonly encounter are irritant and allergic contact dermatitis. All three conditions can lead to the breakdown of the
skin’s natural protective barrier, so the skin becomes “leaky” and has trouble retaining moisture. Also, allergens, irritants and microbes enter more easily to worsen itch and skin inflammation. Irritant contact dermatitis is caused by physical contact with an irritant, such as water, soap, acidic products and anti-aging products that contain vitamin A derivatives such as retinol or retinoids. Irritant contact dermatitis usually has a sharp border corresponding to the areas of chemical exposure. A common location for irritant dermatitis is the melolabial folds (smile lines between the lips and cheeks) and base of the neck; this is where irritating chemicals tend to accumulate with muscle movement. Allergic contact dermatitis occurs only with repeated physical exposure to a previously exposed chemical. Unlike irritant contact dermatitis, an immunologic reaction is involved in allergic contact dermatitis, therefore the rash can be widespread and occur in areas both around and far away from the exposure site. The acute and chronic phases of allergic contact dermatitis can look very similar to atopic dermatitis.
Causes and Triggers Although the exact cause of eczema is not fully understood, it is due to a constellation of factors including over-active immune responses to environmental triggers and microbes, intrinsic skin barrier malfunction exacerbated by extrinsic disruption from scratching, genetic predisposition, altered skin and gut microbiome, and intensified sensation to itch stimuli. Researchers are continuing to discover causes and aggravators of eczema. Although it can happen at any age, eczema is common in young children and post-menopausal adults. Sebum is an oily material that coats the very upper surface of skin and acts as a moisturizer and hydro-lipid film to keep hydrated and protect skin from environmental insults. Sebum is a major source of vitamin E (an antioxidant) in the skin. Sebum production is stimulated by sex hormones, which are low in childhood. Production starts to increase during adolescence and tapers down during menopause when sex hormones decline. The sex hormone and sebum production trends parallel eczema prevalence.
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SKIN CONDITIONS guide
Eczema can be worsened by a variety of triggers, including changes in temperature, very cold, hot, or dry climates, sweating, skin infections, aging, emotional and physical stress, and irritant and allergic contact dermatitis.
Eczema Spa Care Treatment Philosophies The four main pillars of eczema spa care treatments involve therapies that focus on anti-inflammation, control of bacteria, moisturizing and reduction of itching. Anti-inflammation is typically treated with prescription medications such as topical corticosteroids and calcineurin inhibitors. The anti-microbial approach involves prescription topical or oral antimicrobials, or diluted bleach solution as prescribed by a physician. The goal of moisturization is to introduce moisture to the skin and allow the formation of a semi-impermeable seal to prevent water evaporation and block entry of allergens and microbes. The itch can be reduced with various topical or oral medications, acupuncture, relaxation and biofeedback treatments.
Natural Ingredients Eczema spa care that includes the application of natural oils for moisturizing and light massage may be helpful. Be aware of the different types of commercially available oils, as their processing methods can affect their properties. It is important to distinguish virgin, plantbased oil from essential and fragranced oils. Virgin oils are extracted directly from plants by pressing the entire kernel or seed at room temperature (coldpressed). Fragranced oils are artificially produced to carry a specific scent. Essential oil is extracted by adding heat and chemicals. Fragranced and essential oils produce irritating chemicals and therefore should be avoided in clients with sensitive skin and eczema. Oils that contain higher levels of linoleic fatty acids, such as sunflower, are better at repairing the skin barrier than oils that contain high oleic acid, such as olive oil. Sunflower seed oil decreases skin inflammation and improves skin hydration, and coconut oil has anti-microbial and skin moisturizing effects. Both are helpful for eczema
skin. On the other hand, olive oil contains a higher amount of irritating fatty acids that worsens the skin barrier function of people with eczema. Oatmeal is another soothing ingredient for eczema. Moisturizers with oatmeal improve skin hydration and lessen skin irritation. Oatmeal baths improve skin scaling and dryness while soothing the intensely itchy skin for people with eczema. Advise your eczema clients to gauge their reaction to a product with the following test: Apply a small amount on a cosmetically insensitive location, such as the inner arms, and wait three to five days to see whether a rash develops.
Eczema Spa Care: Tips and What to Avoid Treatment of eczema in a spa setting should be focused on relaxation techniques and moisturizing using the proper ingredients. Avoid aggressive rubbing or manipulation of the skin, heat or steaming, as well as chemical peels, dermabrasion and facial rubs. Treat your eczema clients to the following soothing wet wrap treatment: Gently apply a smoothing moisturizer, such as virgin coconut or sunflower seed oil, then wrap the skin with a damp cloth, towel, rice paper or Saran wrap. Create a soothing treatment room ambiance with calming music, which promotes relaxation and may decrease itchy sensations. Avoid the following contraindicating ingredients and materials: • Fragrance and perfumes • Preservatives such as henoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid, and formaldehyde-containing ingredients such as imadozolidinyl urea • Synthetic dyes • Drying ingredients such as alcohol, retinoids, and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid
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SKIN CONDITIONS guide • Acidic ingredients such as citric acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid and tretinoic acid • Sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate found in soaps • Wool-based fabric (opt instead for cotton and silk)
lergies should be avoided, as they can cause eczema flare-ups and even potentially life-threatening allergic reactions called anaphylaxis. Skin and lip contact with acidic foods may cause irritation and stinging on active eczema lesions. Advise clients to consume a well-rounded diet that includes vital micro-nutrients such vitamin D. Research Nutritional Tips has shown that lower levels of vitamin D in the blood are linked to higher rates Food allergies occur more frequently of skin1and7/20/17 intranasal Staphylococcus in people with eczema than the gensilcskin_Decollette_and_hand_treatment.pdf 12:54 PM aureus overgrowth and eczema severity. eral population. Any known food al-
Educate eczema clients on the importance of pro and prebiotics. Probiotics are live bacteria found in cultured yogurts and fermented foods, such as soft cheeses, kimchi, miso, sauerkraut and sourdough bread. Prebiotics are carbohydrates that cannot be digested by humans but are nutritional sources for probiotics. Good sources include legumes, artichokes, bananas, asparagus and oatmeal. Taking certain probiotics during pregnancy appears to have a protective role against childhood eczema. These include Lactobacillus rhamnosus., Lactobacillus paracasei, and Bifidobacterium longum.
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*A full list of references for this article can be found on our digital edition at LNEONLINE.COM.
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Vivian Shi, M.D., is an assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Arizona, where she oversees the Eczema Research Program and Specialty Clinic. She has extensive clinical and research experience in eczema and repair of the skin’s natural protective barrier. Dr. Shi is also a senior health content editor and leads the Eczema Education Roundtable at Dermveda, a platform focusing on integrative approaches to skin care. Her philosophy is that skin health is best addressed by incorporating both inside-out and outside-in approaches, emphasizing the power of the mind-bodyenvironment interaction.
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spa of the month
An URBAN SPA AMENITY
For Health And Serenity
AquaVie Spa at The Westgate Hotel in San Diego, Calif.
by Amanda Clinton Winter
Tucked away in The Westgate Hotel’s third floor private wing, AquaVie Spa is a true hidden treasure for health and serenity. Opening its doors just this past February, the spa offers a wide range of body therapy treatments, massage practices, skin care services and waxing and nail care options provided by trained experts and professionals. AquaVie Spa reflects a lavish, modern charm by incorporating the finest organic ingredients into their treatments, designed to nourish, purify and restore balance in each of their clients. The spa’s warm, welcoming staff ensures expert service from start to finish within a personalized holistic journey for the ultimate luxurious experience.
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spa spa of the month
AquaVie SIGNATURE TREATMENT AquaVie Spa’s most frequently requested treatment is their Elevated Wellness Massage (60 minutes, $135; 90 minutes, $195). The spa’s skilled massage therapists work to customize each client’s bodywork based on their specific needs and personal preferences. The treatment is a custom massage using the client’s choice of aromatic essential oil blends. It incorporates techniques from around the world including Swedish, table shiatsu, passive joint movement, table Thai massage, Tui na, Proprioceptive Neuromuscular Facilitation (PNF) stretching, Russian sports, trigger point therapy and Lomi Lomi. Massage therapists at AquaVie determine the needs of the client through verbal communication and palpation prior to the treatment, and tailor the massage accordingly.
MARKETING San Diego locals, corporate professionals, tourists and members of the spa and hotel are drawn to AquaVie because of its positive reputation and endless list of exclusive amenities that allow guests to relax and indulge during each visit. Coupled with exceptional and effective spa treatments, the spa’s knowledgeable and experienced service providers create a bond with their guests that earns their loyalty. Tina Hingle, marketing manager of AquaVie Spa and The Westgate Hotel, explained the spa’s impact on their clients. “The space itself, its ambiance, the products we use and the seclusion of the spa is truly designed for those seeking the ultimate relaxation, results and overall wellness. Maintaining this perception of our spa is how we not only attract new clients, but encourage new ones to visit us,” she says. The spa’s full-service menu is available on their website where they also 56
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feature monthly specials focused on new seasonal treatments. AquaVie utilizes Instagram, Twitter and Facebook to promote their services as well as a weekly email blast that is sent to their wellness club members.
TRAINING When a new team member is hired at AquaVie Spa, they are initially trained for the first two weeks regarding the spa’s expectations, treatments, services and etiquette. New therapists are reviewed daily after their initial training until they are able to confidently and consistently offer guests five-star luxury experiences. The superb status of AquaVie’s staff is maintained throughout their employment by one-hour long meetings held both monthly and quarterly. “During these meetings, the current state of the overall business is addressed and we filter out what’s working and what’s not.” Hingle states. The team establishes numerous strategies regarding customer service and marketing. Hingle continues, “Teamwork
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is tremendously important in a spa environment. Our staff members are always communicating and supporting each other, whether it’s by sharing tips on the most current techniques, taking photos for social media, catering to the special needs of our guests, or just saying hello!” AquaVie Spa also evaluates their employees on a daily basis and continuously seeks opportunities for them to grow and develop further. Employee goals are centered on service quality, membership recruitment and retention, sales, product and retail sales and guest services. To constantly keep her employees incentivized to meet these goals, Hingle holds friendly competitions among the staff, which helps create a warm, yet competitive atmosphere to encourage employees to stay knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the spa’s offerings. These competitions include team fitness challenges in the spa’s fitness center and timed task completions involving spa services and everyday tasks and expectations. Winners receive discounted treatments, services and products.
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spa spa of the month
RUNDOWN AquaVia Spa at The Westgate Hotel 234 Broadway San Diego, Calif. 92101 westgatehotel.com/services/ aquavie-spa Launched: February 2017 Size: 40,000 sq. ft. Spa Owner: The Westgate Hotel, a Grand America Hotels and Resorts Property
SPECIAL EVENTS & PROMOTIONS The spa participates in and hosts several events on a monthly basis. “We mix things up by creating different spa services each month based on anything from the weather to upcoming holidays,” Hingle explains. This past summer, the spa focused on promoting their hydrating facials and after-pool body polishes by offering the services to hotel and spa guests at a promotional rate. The spa also works alongside different companies such as yoga studios and fitness centers to provide private classes and events such as a “Yoga & Mimosas” event they held by the spa pool this past summer. AquaVie Spa is still in the process of developing their relationship with other local vendors to enhance their successes and promotions. “The possibilities are endless in a market like San Diego! We are very excited for what is to come,” says Hingle.
REVENUE & RETAIL When choosing products to retail, AquaVie Spa focuses on products 58
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that are not only beneficial and most in-demand from their client base, but those that are also aesthetically pleasing. Hingle states, “We strive to ensure a direct correlation with our brand; products that complement our message of wellness and individualized fitness, although the modern look of the product is also essential and helps us to market and sell to our clients.” As trends change and the spa brings in new retail products, each employee is trained on the ingredients, benefits and any contraindications. Remaining knowledgeable about the products enables staff to educate clients on the benefits and how they address each client’s specific needs, which is key to incentivizing clients to purchase retail. AquaVie Spa also offers guests four different levels of memberships, which allows the guests to not only commit to overall wellness of their mind, body and spirit, but also to receive special spa discounts on products and services and have unlimited access to the entire facility. Memberships are promoted via local community outreach, as well as digital, print and social media.
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Client Composition: 50 percent female, 50 percent male Amenities: Five treatment rooms, two indoor exercise studios with cardio and strength training equipment, full service locker rooms for both males and females, rooftop hot tub, Junior Olympic lap pool, three outdoor studios with fitness equipment, 1/10th mile rubberized outdoor running track, towel service, free Wi-Fi, laundry service, steam room and sauna, nutrition consultation room and on-site healthy food and beverage bar Retail Lines: Comfort Zone Recognitions: AquaVie Spa is proud of the recognition they receive on Yelp and features in Locale, Modern Luxury and San Diego Magazine. The spa has also been featured on local TV news.
Amanda Clinton Winter is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has a bachelor’s degree in English literature and psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@LNEONLINE.com.
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SECRET
SPA MENU 60
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Everyone likes to feel like they're getting something special and being given the VIP treatment. That is why spas around the country have been creating secret spa menus, or off-menu items, that help bring an element of mystery, surprise and excitement to the spa experience. Here is how three spas are offering their best-kept secrets to clients...
The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay Half Moon Bay, Calif.
Why spas are creating off-menu services by Carrie Borzillo
The Ritz-Carlton, Half Moon Bay launched their Secret Spa Menu this spring as a way to bring a little mystery to the luxury spa experience. The ever-changing menu features limited-time spa experiences, including the Matanza Creek Lavender Escape (130 minutes, $650), the Tatcha Rituals of Japan (130 minutes, $600), and the most popular item, the Diamond Facial (120 minutes, $450). The secret menu treatments change every three to six months. "The genesis of the Secret Spa Menu comes from creating high-end, unique spa offerings that are not offered by any other Ritz-Carlton and present these services in such a way that creates a sense of curiosity,� says spa director Matt Walsh. The spa also provides a platform by which to create new and exciting services that our regular menu might not provide. Curiosity is a powerful driver and our goal is to tap into the curiosity of our hotel guests and local Bay Area residents." Walsh says the concept was also partially inspired by the old speakeasy format of having to provide a secret password for entry during the Prohibition Era of the 1920s and 1930s. "This also allowed us to deviate a bit by providing a menu that is unique to our spa. The Secret Spa Menu features products that we generally do not offer in our standard menu, which provides an even more exclusive experience for our guests. These services may also include bespoke gift sets to be enjoyed while at the spa, the resort, or after our guests are home," he says.
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spa secret spa menu The spa launched the Secret Spa Menu via a press release, which received a lot of media attention. "Additionally, guests will only learn of the secret menu through social media, strategic emails, website, and by word of mouth," Walsh adds.
Canyon Ranch SpaClub The Venetian/The Palazzo Las Vegas, Nev.
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Canyon Ranch SpaClub's promoted their secret menu item with these ironic words: "It's a Secret...SHHHHH (not really)" when launching their first secret spa menu item, The All-In Massage (80 minutes, $310), which includes a stone massage, Shiatsu, Thai, reflexology, and a head, neck and shoulders massage. "We wanted to create a service for our guests that they couldn't find anywhere else, using some of our most popular services in one great service," says spa director Deirdre Strunk. Making the guest feel like they were getting something extra special was the key motivator here. "We wanted our guests to get an 'exclusive' feel of Canyon Ranch through something other than the Internet where most of our promotions or services are listed. Being the largest spa on the [Las Vegas] Strip, we are already set apart from our competitors but we really wanted to give our guests something extra that made them know and feel that they are valuable to us and we've created something special for them," explains Strunk, who says the spa has promoted this through word-ofmouth with key journalists, social media influencers and direct conversations with their clients. With the success of The All-In Massage, the spa has since launched a second secret spa menu item, the Bombshell Blowout (80 minutes, $235) in their salon. "It features a refreshing scalp treatment followed by a gloss and tone and finishing with our specialty seven brush blowout. We'll be adding items over time, but it's not about the quantity of the menu, it's about the quality and unique things we can bring to our clients," she adds.
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ESSpa Kozmetika Organic Skincare Pittsburgh, Penn.
ESSpa's reason to have a wide variety of hidden spa items on their menu is more practical than calculated. CEO and director of esthetics Eva Sztupka-Kerschbaumer's methods of skin care are akin to the Italian grandmother who never writes down her recipes because she just wings it as she goes and it comes out delicious each time. "I don't like structure," admits Kerschbaumer. "I'm very creative and artistic and make it up on the go. I always want to do whatever I want to do when I see their skin and analyze what they need in that moment. I never want to do the same old thing, the same way. I get bored easily. There are too many options and combinations of masks, peels, serums or light to even put on a spa menu." Among her favorite special touches to her facials, which run from $200 to $500, are 24-karat gold masks made of gold leaf that art restorers use, as opposed to the typical Korean gold masks most spas use. Kerschbaumer is also a fan of snail extract and using a variety of facial massage techniques, such as facial yoga, tapping, pinching and lymphatic drainage. "She (Kerschbaumer) is booked two to three months in advance because people know she has secrets to share," says coowner Scott Kerschbaumer. Take a cue from these spas’ creative offerings and invent your own “secrets” to share with guests. Do this and watch your spa become a destination known for delivering a truly unique VIP experience!
Carrie Borzillo is an awardwinning lifestyle and entertainment journalist covering spas, health and wellness, sex and relationships. Her work has appeared in magazines such as Men's Health, SELF, People, Entertainment Weekly and more. She is the author of three pop culture books. Borzillo can be reached at carrie.borzillo@ gmail.com.
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FACILITY CONCEPT Fumi Ozaki: Owner,
Licensed Esthetician, Electrologist, Certified Esthetics Instructor at “O” de Kirei in Redondo Beach, Calif.
How can you define the concept of your one woman spa? “O” de Kirei is a personalized, private, petite skin care and electrolysis practice. The “O” comes from my last initial, but also means “water” (eau) in French and Kirei means “beauty” or “beautiful” in Japanese. My concept is to inspire the pure blessings of water to all my clients with positive spirit, optimal health and radiant skin wellness! What are your most popular treatments? Electrolysis and a European facial, which can be customized with add-ons such as a pumpkin peel or algae peptide mask. The European Facial + Gua Sha Meridian Combo Treatment is also very popular and uses a special plate made of jade or buffalo horn to relieve toxins in the body with several holistic benefits.
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How many treatment rooms and other amenities are there? “O” de Kirei is privately located on the top floor of a three-story office building. I have one treatment table for facials, body treatments and electrolysis. I have a product retail section and a reception desk, perfectly situated in a single 144 square-foot leasing space. Aside from the leased space, the building provides a common area space with a sofa, located immediately outside the spa for clients to wait for their appointments. The common area space is also perfect for conducting any skin care related classes, private parties or large meetings with a capacity of more than 15 people.
OWNERSHIP ROLE What daily challenges do you encounter as a one woman spa? Maintaining current clientele while searching for new clients.
How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? I love to hit the gym after work, take a brisk walk alongside the beach, cook hearty homemade meals and take great care of my own skin! I am also very fortunate to have a great relationship with my mentor, a longtime family friend who is like my guardian. She lives in Japan but we speak on the phone regularly to catch up and she provides me with words of wisdom. Being a one woman spa, maintaining open communication with my mentor puts me at ease and motivates me further to strive for success. What takes most of your time every day? Client appointments are pre-booked; therefore, my days are usually set and scheduled ahead of time. My typical day consists of rendering the services, cleaning, sterilizing, laundering, table set-up, making hot towels, taking out trash, checking product inventory, ordering supplies, preparing monthly e-blasts and following up with clients via phone or email.
A ONE WOMAN SPA So you are the only real “employee” of your spa? Yes, I am my own boss who wears many hats! I am licensed as an esthetician, electrologist and also render makeup artistry. To enhance my career, I pursued an additional 600 hours to be certified as an esthetician instructor because I love to educate clients about proper skin care! Do you ever need to hire temporary help? Only when I need an extra hand during PR events or in-house private parties. I have a phone interview with a candidate first, followed with a face-to-face interview before moving forward with the hiring process. The candidate must be punctual, passionate and presentable for the spa brand and have the
willingness to go above and beyond to assist in any way during an event. How do you train staff? I follow up with them beforehand via email and personally make a phone call to review what I expect from them on the day of the event.
RETAIL What are your retail goals? My current retail is 25 percent of sales monthly. My goal is to grow five percent more! Where is your retail area located? Near the front door, close to the reception area. The two tier retail shelves are perfectly located where clients can glance while receiving a treatment. I also have tester samples displayed at the reception desk so clients can test the quality of the products I retail.
MARKETING & PUBLICITY Tell us about your marketing techniques. The most important aspect of running my spa business is being proactive and focusing on new opportunities. Besides posting on social media such as Twitter, Instagram and LinkedIn, I spend most of my time and money attending local networking events to meet potential clients and donate gift certificates to various non-profit organizations and local schools. I also write e-blasts in English and Japanese to existing clientele about promotions and events happening in the spa.
my Japanese background at the spa called omotenashi, meaning hospitality. I do this by speaking to my clients kindly and answering any questions or concerns. I also do my best to relieve any anxiety about the service they are receiving by doing a detailed consultation from day one. What incentives do you offer to your clients to retain their business? I offer a Friend’s Referral Program, which offers them the opportunity to receive a free treatment for referring their friends to the spa! I also give birthday gifts to clients visiting on their birthday month, thank loyal customers with holiday gifts, provide a five-minute add on service for being a follower on Instagram and send hand-written thank you notes to all new clients as part of following up on their first visit!
TIPS FOR SPA LEADERS What important lessons have you learned from challenges as a one woman spa that you can share with others on your career path? It is very important to know your boundaries when stocking your inventory. It’s easy to get sidetracked with money when you overstock too many products purchased from various vendors. Recognize your inventory to sales ratio and carry only the products you are confident about enough to sell!
EXCEPTIONAL CLIENT CARE How do you keep clients loyal and consistent? By maintaining professionalism at all times in a one-on-one, clean setting with a relaxing ambiance. I incorporate LNEonline.com
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BOOST YOUR
ESTHETICIAN
RETAIL SKILLS TRIPLE YOUR BOTTOM LINE BY MASTERING THE ART OF SALES by Natalie Iovino-Schoenfeld
As an esthetician, you put great effort into each service you provide your clients. But one of the most often overlooked and mutually beneficial skills an esthetician can have is the ability to properly retail and sell. Esthetician retail and sales skills are every bit as important to an esthetics business as delivering an excellent service. Most of your clients are coming to you for one reason: RESULTS. While the spa services themselves are beneficial to optimal skin health, your clients also need the home care tools to maintain their skin.
WHY IS IT SO HARD? Retail sales are a scary avenue for many to navigate. You already know that your clients don’t want to be “sold” anything, and you know it will involve extra talking, quick thinking and knowledge to back up your sales pitch. As a working esthetician and esthetics educator, I hear every excuse under the sun to get out of selling product: “The client was in a hurry!” “They already have products at home!” “I gave them samples.”
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business boost your esthetician retail skills
The list of rationalizations goes on and on. However you are doing a huge disservice to yourself and your client if you do not attempt to sell them a product. While even the word “sell” may make you shudder, you need to get over it, and get out of your own way!
WHY IS IT SO IMPORTANT? Retail product sales add value to your business, both monetarily and professionally. A self-employed esthetician experiences an increased revenue stream as retail sales rise, leading to a larger budget for newer, better products and machines — and more money overall! An esthetician who works for a spa and sells retail is a more valuable employee than one who doesn’t generate this extra income for their employer. Many businesses offer bonuses to top sellers in the form of money or product in addition to the commission on their sales. Many new estheticians fail to recognize that retail sales are one of the best ways to build a client base and provide them with the most complete service. Clients need products to use at home that support and maintain the benefits from their services, and it is your duty as an esthetician to provide guidance on their product choices. Selling effective products is an excellent way to build trust and 70
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guarantee repeat business, as clients will return to you to get their refills, change their skin care each season (based on your recommendation), and to get your advice on all things related to their skin.
SUCCESSFUL SELLING Many clients simply don’t understand the benefits of treating their skin at home in addition to receiving their regular services, and initially need a gentle nudge before they agree to even try a home care regimen. In these cases, a good esthetician retail tactic is to use an analogy as a sales technique. For example: “Everyone goes to the dentist for deep cleanings, but they still brush and floss at home, right?” This parallel comparison effectively conveys the purpose of a home care regimen between sessions. Taking a concept that isn’t part of their daily life and relating it to a regular routine may be all it takes to change one’s entire perspective on home care. After your client comes floating out of the spa room from their satisfying service, the last thing they are interested in is a lengthy sales pitch. Consider the following gentle esthetician retail approach instead: Before the client leaves, find the products you want to recom-
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mend to them. Line the products up in the order of an ideal regimen from start to finish as a visual. Then pull forward one or two products from the line that you want them to take home that day. The reasoning behind this approach is that it’s easier for people to purchase part of a series than it is to make one big investment. By looking at the entire lineup of five products, they see a chunk of money they’ll have to spend. Highlighting specific products out of this group softens the experience so that they don’t feel overwhelmed. They don’t feel as if they need to spend as much upfront, and they now know to expect product recommendations at future visits. While discussing the products, keep the information short and sweet, but descriptive. Name key ingredients and their benefits, but don’t go into too much detail — or you’ll be watching your clients’ eyes glaze over as they nod their head in agreement and then leave without purchasing anything.
FOCUS ON THE CLIENT Clients want to feel in control. They want your esthetician retail guidance without feeling like you are telling them what to do, and they want to be the ones who make the final decision. Don’t be pushy, and never sell a product just for the sake of selling something. If you push home care simply because of commission or sales requirements, and not because it is the best product for the client, they won’t get the results they want, and you will lose that client. If the client declines and you persist, you will lose them. If the client feels that they are just a number to you, and that you don’t care about what they want or need, you will lose them.
RETAIL QUALITY Another important aspect to consider is the quality of the products you retail. If you are purchasing your own products, do diligent research and choose items based on experience. Ask product rep-
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business boost your esthetician retail skills resentatives to send you sample items before investing, and learn about any ingredients you don’t recognize. Be cautious of cheap, filler ingredients, as many of today’s clients are product savvy and will know that they don’t want to put products containing those ingredients on their skin. If you work for a spa, ask for additional esthetician retail training on the line your employer carries, or shadow a seasoned seller to learn the proper wording to describe the products. You are better able to sell something that you understand and believe in.
SMART SAMPLING Free sample giveaways can be your best friend or your worst enemy. While sampling can be a great way to introduce a new product to your clients, it is wise to limit sample giveaways only to clients who are already making a purchase. For example, if they are purchasing a scrub,
HC
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give them a sample of a masque that can work well alongside it. Many estheticians provide their clients with too many free samples. New estheticians often “feed” samples to clients instead of offering them the fullsize product. This misguided generosity is a business killer! Rather than building adequate relationships with clients, oversampling simply makes them sample hungry. It also makes you appear unsure about what you are offering and why. A sample should be one of your go-to sales tools for clients who are hesitant to make a purchase. This doesn’t mean giving them a sample and sending them on their way — you will probably never see them again. Instead, sell them the full-size product and offer a few complimentary samples of that same product as well. Instruct them to use the sample prior to opening and using the full-size item. This also works well for businesses that cannot take returns of open products, as it offers the client a feeling of
safety when making their purchase. In most cases, the client never tries to make a return. Every successful esthetician knows the value of proper retailing and sales to maintaining a strong business and full appointment book. It’s not just about selling products, but building long-lasting, trustbased relationships that are beneficial to both you and your clients. Natalie Iovino-Schoenfeld, a licensed esthetician and esthetics educator at the New York Institute of Beauty, believes that fostering positive client relationships is paramount to a thriving business. With more than a decade of management experience in the industry, she strives for exemplary customer service and enjoys guiding students and employees to success. She lives in Long Island, N.Y. Follow her on Instagram to view her portfolio work, business observations and the latest trends in the industry @Natalie_LE_MUA.
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Bella Schneider Beauty recently launched their latest SUPERFOOD FACE MASK Collection, which is packed with nutrient rich, good-foryou ingredients to help skin look and feel as good as you do on the inside! After 40 years of formulating products, their mission with this collection was to blend the benefits of superfoods with science to create the healthiest and most powerful face masks on the market. Boosting hydration, fighting free radicals, calming inflammation, brightening skin tone, plumping up fine lines and detoxifying pores are just some of the benefits you’ll enjoy with these 100 percent natural and clean face masks!
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Skin Care Properties of BLACK
SEED OIL HOW TO INCORPORATE BLACK SEED OIL INTO YOUR PRACTICE by Erik Lieux
NIGELLA SATIVA, commonly known as black seed oil or black cumin oil, is such a potent ingredient that it has been described as able to “remedy everything but death.” It’s long recorded history as an herb used for many diverse benefits spans more than 3,000 years. The earliest usage is traced to ancient Egypt. Black seed oil was even found in the tomb of King Tutankamen!
BLACK SEED OIL BOOST The oil of the black seed has a spicy, pungent flavor and peppery smell, and contains two very powerful compounds: nigellone, an anti-histamine, and thymoquinone, a powerful antiinflammatory. It also houses essential fatty acids, beneficial proteins, vitamins, amino acids and flavonoids. Hundreds of scientific peer-reviewed articles have been published on various health and dermatological benefits of black seed oil, including the following…
IMMUNE SYSTEM POWERHOUSE Black seed oil is a powerful immune system booster. In addition to protecting against everyday colds, it increases production of white blood cells and activates production of T cells. Black seed oil has an impeccable track record of eradicating a host of drug resistant bacterias, even including Staphyloccocus aureus (MRSA), a strong strain that can bring about serious illness and even death. SKIN HEALTH AND INFLAMMATION Black seed oil has many topical benefits, as it is known to help soothe many inflammatory skin conditions and speed skin healing. For example, it has been shown to effectively decrease the severity of eczema on hands. Black seed oil contains many properties that nourish and calm troublesome skin issues, LNEonline.com
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o&w skin care properties of black seed oil including vitamins A, B1, B2, B6 and C, along with minerals like calcium, potassium, magnesium, selenium and zinc. Black seed oil is also rich in essential fatty acids that provide deep, lasting moisture and help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Along with vitamin A and amino acids, these fatty acids encourage a more youthful and radiant appearance overall. Additional reputed skin benefits of topical application include lessened appearance of age spots and dark spots, and management of oily skin and clogged pores. Recommend or offer the following treatment to clients experiencing thinning hair or baldness: Apply black seed oil directly to bald spots, leave on for 30 minutes and then rinse. Alternatively, combine a 1:1 mixture of extra-virgin oil and black seed oil, rubbing it directly onto balding areas. HAIR HEALTH Black seed oil can encourage hair growth, prevent hair loss and help strengthen existing hair. Although the mechanism behind such benefits isn’t yet understood, it may be related to its anti-microbial compounds and powerful antioxidants that are known to strengthen hair follicles. Because black seed oil is anti-inflammatory, it is helpful for soothing scalp conditions like flakiness, as well as killing fungal infections.
DIABETES AND WEIGHT LOSS An article written in the Journal of Endocrinology and Metabolism states that black seed oil “causes gradual partial regeneration of pancreatic beta-cells, increases the lowered serum insulin concentrations, and decreases the elevated serum glucose.” The research behind this claim, which was performed on mice, suggests that black cumin oil may help alleviate the development of Type 1 diabetes, and increase the insulin sensitivity of liver cells, which helps to prevent Type 2 diabetes. As black seed oil is an excellent anti-inflammatory agent, it has also been found to lessen the appetite and improve glucose levels and absorption, both of which can be helpful in losing weight.
DIGESTION
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ICES Long Beach 2017
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Actual unaltered images showing result after subject’s usage of complete Clinical line. Results may vary.
Black seed oil has been shown to have antispasmodic effects on the smooth muscle of the intestine, making it helpful for symptoms of irritable bowel syndrome such as bloating, gas and stomach cramps. This effect also makes black seed oil intake useful in addressing skin conditions that are linked to gut health. Suggest black seed oil to your clients as an alternative digestive aid and detoxifier. Advise them to start intake slowly, beginning with ½ teaspoon daily taken with a small amount of food. Eventually consumption can increase up to 1 teaspoon twice daily, depending on how well it is tolerated by the body. In fact, the great Hippocrates was said to use black seed oil to improve his own digestive ailments! With the plethora of beauty, health and vitality benefits possible with the amazing black seed oil, consider implementing it into your practice and client recommendations today! Erik Lieux has a Masters Degree in Mental Health Counseling and an intense passion for health and wellness that allows him to continue expanding the vision of a new paradigm in healthy living. This is most acutely re-
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flected in his beverage line Shamanic Tonic, which infuses many of the superfoods and super herbs he is so passionate about. To learn more or to keep in touch, visit: shamanictonic.com.
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BREAST HEALTH MASSAGE September2017
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THE ULTIMATE WOMAN’S GUIDE FOR YOU AND YOUR CLIENTS by Melanie Sachs
Since the skin reveals a great deal about one’s physical health and state of mind, it is no wonder why clients ask estheticians to share their opinions about issues that cause the client stress. Although estheticians are not counselors, skin care can actually be the starting point for conversations about many subjects. One subject that comes up frequently in these conversations is breast health. This begs the question: Why don’t Exercise boosts the immune system and activates enmore skin care professionals and spas ofdorphins, serotonin and brain derived neurotrophic fer clients breast health massage therapy factors (BDNFs) that improve mood and relieve stress. and self care tips? Exercise of the shoulders is particularly helpful for Consider the statistics: Most people breasts, as such movements mobilize lymph flow in know someone who has been diagnosed the upper torso, which helps cleanse and refresh blood with breast cancer. One in eight women supply to the breast tissue. is diagnosed in their lifetime. And canStart with your hands in a prayer position. Roll the cer is not the only breast issue women shoulders backward 10 times as you stroke over the stress about. Women of all ages suffer tops of the breasts toward the armpit. Then roll forward from breast tenderness, whether from 10 times as you stroke under the breast. Remember to fibrocystic formations or scar tissue from take deep, steady breaths. Do this three times a day. breast implants. Psychologically, many women also struggle with feelings that Ayurveda, India’s holistic healing art, their breasts are too small, too large or offers numerous pressure points known as “marma the wrong shape. points,” which have been treasured for centuries for
Get Moving
The following 10 lifestyle suggestions and corresponding points and breast health massage touch techniques on the front of the neck and décolleté serve three exciting functions: you can use them in the treatment room, teach them to clients for self care, and use them on yourself!
their role in helping the body become better attuned to itself and stay healthy, serving an essential role in breast health massage. The deepest marma point in the body is in the armpit. Apply the following touch techniques on your clients and yourself, either over clothing or directly on the skin.
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o&w breast health massage
Rest your fingers on top of the right shoulder. Ask client to raise their arm up so their hand touches the back of their neck. Place your thumb in the middle of the armpit. Keep your thumb in this position as the client lowers their arm to their side. Gently press toward the top of the shoulder. Make small clockwise circles OR press and release five times. Repeat on the left armpit. This point, known as KAKSHA marma, improves lymphatic drainage in the breast tissue, boosts general circulation, regulates sweating and helps tension drop away from the shoulder area, releasing stress and tightness.
sagging and congested breast tissue. Congestion is the start of inflammation, pain and pathology. Breasts should be left free at night, as healthy circulation is vital to healthy breasts. Use the tips of your thumb to press and massage the top surface of the collarbone, from the place where it joins the breast bone to its ending at the top of the shoulder. The main marma point to touch is AKSHAKA on the medial end of the clavicle. A breast health massage of this point improves lymph circulation, and on an emotional level helps one feel less critical and prideful. Gently massaging behind the collarbone is another movement that eases stress and fatigue.
Get Comfortable Wear comfortable bras made with natural fibers. Strapless bras and bras with underwires — particularly those that are not well fitted — tend to push the breasts up and make red marks. Over time, these supports weaken muscles on the torso and constrict the flow of lymph. If they are worn regularly or for long periods, they contribute to breast 82
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Get Emotional Indulge in a good cry when you need one. Feelings of sadness, grief and loneliness tend to settle in the lungs and affect the tissues over the lungs — the breast tissue. When these feelings are unacknowledged and allowed to linger, they can be toxic. Press and release on the points between the ribs in the intercos-
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tal spaces on either side of the breast bone. Do this five times. The point in the second intercostal space is called APASTAMHA marma and those in the intercostal spaces below are called the HRID MARMANI. A breast health massage of these points not only helps clear physical congestion such as mucus in the lungs, they also help dispel heavy emotions, calm the mind, open the heart emotionally and relieve stress. Many women report feeling more positive and confident after these areas are massaged.
Get Organic Eat organically raised foods and use environmentally friendly cleaning products. Many synthetic chemicals mimic the body’s hormones, and can wreak physical and emotional havoc in the body and mind. Organic foods are not only lower in chemicals, they are richer in nutrients — particularly vitamins E, C and B-complex, as well as minerals that are helpful in times of great stress. Using the tips of the index and middle finger, moving from the wrist, tap on the midline of the breast
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o&w breast health massage bone from top to bottom three to five times. The main marma point is JATRU on the midline at the top of the sternum and HRID marma on the midline at nipple level. A breast health massage of these points supports and builds the immune system, helps deepen breathing, overcomes fatigue and releases deeply buried emotions and anxiety.
Get Your Nutrition Follow a diet high in whole grains, green and orange vegetables, fruits, good fats, nuts, seeds and a generous sprinkling of herbs and spices. Avoid saturated and hydrogenated fats, refined sugars, dairy products, red meats and caffeine. Mediterranean and Asian diets are recognized as healthy models of nutrition, and serve as a good reference point. While soy products such as soy milk, tofu and tempeh contain many beneficial properties, be aware that soy may bond with extra estrogens that can cause disruptions in the healthy functioning of breast tissue.
Press and release the base of the breastbone, just a finger width on either side of the midline. Do this five times. These two points are called the STANYA MULA. A breast health massage of these points is very helpful with easing tenderness from fibrocystic breast tissue, abscesses or cysts, in addition to regulating lactation and managing mastitis.
Get Hormone Free Stick to hormone free contraception, and avoid long-term use of the pill and synthetic hormone replacement therapies (HRT) whenever possible. A Women’s Health Initiative published in 2002 suggested a link between breast cancer and HRT, after which women began opting for bioidentical hormone therapies. Breast cancer rates then started to decrease in the early 2000s, after being on the upswing for
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20 years, suggesting a possible link. This technique cannot be performed on clients by the esthetician, but it is a quick fix that can be done by oneself at home: Naked, sit and lean forward. Take ahold of your nipples and gently jiggle them up and down. If this makes you smile, great! Joy is great medicine. The marma is called CHUCHUKA. It mobilizes circulation in the tiniest of capillaries, deeply cleansing the breast tissue.
Get Exposed Expose breasts to sun and moonlight — it feels just as good as experiencing the sun, sea and air on the rest of the body! This can be done on a topless beach or simply in the privacy of one’s backyard. Use the tips of the index and middle fingers to gently press and release on the sides of the body one at a time just below the bottom end of the shoulder blade (in the seventh intercostal space). Do this five times. If it tickles, just remember that laughter is one of the best medicines! These points are the STANYA PARSHVA marma points. As with other marma points, a breast health massage of these points can help relieve congestion in the breast, ease tenderness and stimulate lymph flow.
Get Aluminum Free Use deodorant that is free of aluminum. Aluminum is a heavy metal that can enter the blood and lymph systems through the skin and severely challenge the immune system. The fewer challenges that the body has to deal with, the greater the chance for breast tissues to be healthy. With the tips of the fingers on the top part of the outside of the right arm, use the thumb to press in and massage in five clockwise circles in the hollow on the front of the chest. Repeat on left side. This is the SKANDAHARA marma point. A breast health massage of this point is very helpful in easing tension
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in the shoulder and corresponding side of the neck, releasing tightness in the chest and discomfort anywhere in the upper torso.
Get Dark Sleep in complete darkness. Deeper, more healing sleep can be achieved in the dark of night or in a room that is completely blacked out. From behind, gently stroke each earlobe down to the hollow under the collarbone, then out to the tip of the shoulder. Work five times on the right side, followed by the left. These marma points are called MANTHA and SIRAMANTHA. They are on the front surface of the large neck muscles that one feels when the head turns from left to right. A breast health massage here helps open lymphatic drainage while bringing freshness and clarity to the mind.
Get Positive Think positively and enjoy nurturing yourself. Send positive messages to the breasts. Stride in confidence. Be complimentary to yourself, acknowledging what you like about your body, and compliment others as well. Overcome the cultural stereotypes that imprison you. Ayurveda acknowledges that every body type has its own unique beauty. Seek out yours and become it. Return to the point in both armpits discussed in #1. The benefits of breast health massage are right at our fingertips. In recognition of the upcoming Breast Cancer Awareness Month, introduce your clients and yourself to this therapeutic tool! Melanie Sachs, a certified Ayurvedic life counselor, healer and teacher, is sought after by some of the world’s leading spas and beauty schools. She has published Ayurvedic Beauty Care, and is recognized internationally for the application of Ayurveda to the beauty world.
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Healing Sensations
Traditional bronze Kansa Wands are the healing metal of Ayurveda and the FASTEST growing tool for estheticians and massage therapists worldwide! Incorporate the healing power into your practice as you guide your clients to the ultimate relaxation! Melanie and Robert Sachs of Diamond Way Ayurveda are pioneers to these fantastic tools in the spa and beauty industry!
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SERVICE & RETAIL What is the best part about working with lash and brow services in the spa industry? Seeing a client’s reaction after my lash and brow services is so rewarding! I love instantly boosting my clients’ confidence. I’ve treated clients who have undergone chemotherapy, and giving them back their self-assurance is so heart warming. Seeing tears of happiness is the greatest feeling! When did you decide to implement lash and brow services into your spa menu? About seven years ago. About two years ago, I added microblading and eyebrow extensions.
Brow
Business Success With Jessica Berlanga of Venia Spa, Salinas, Calif.
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What approaches did you take to implement these services? My first step was to make sure prices were affordable without jeopardizing the reputation and quality of the services. I then ran a special that lasted six months, which allowed our clients a discounted rate to test out the service before they committed to a monthly or yearly expense. Which of your services is the most profitable? I believe our eyelash extensions are the most profitable because the cost of the products we use is low, but the results are very high in demand. Our lash professionals are also trained to utilize their time in an efficient manner so we can book several of these appointments per day. What kind of special lash and brow treatment specials do you offer? We offer monthly specials that often include lash extensions. Our clients can receive $50 off a full set of lash extensions or buy a full set and receive 20
percent off a fill. We also plan to implement a rewards program for our existing clients, allowing them to accumulate points toward their lash services.
MAKEUP AREA Describe your makeup area. Our makeup area is a private room. We set it up this way because we like to dedicate ourselves to our clients one-on-one. We have a total of five treatment rooms and three of them are designated to skin care, massage and eyelash/brow services. Then one room is designated to nails, and the other one to makeup. We have a small boutique lobby where our retail is located and upstairs we have a waiting area for clients to relax and unwind before their services. What prompted you to choose the size for each specific area? The spaces are set up this way because of the architecture of the building. The spa is located inside of a historical house built in the 1920s. Since the house is historic, we can only use it as is. The charm of the house is something no other spa in our area offers!
TEAM MEMBERS How do you select your lash and brow artists? We only hire professionals with a minimum of three years experience and most of our hires are by referral. We do not scout out our talent. We look for professionals that LOVE what they do! Someone that is willing to be a team player, has on open mind, is willing to grow and share creative ideas that can benefit the business. How do you keep your staff incentivized? By providing a stress free environment that they look forward to coming to! We
value their opinions and take immediate action with whatever questions or concerns they have. I believe providing a positive and stress free workplace incentivizes them to provide the same for our clients. I also personally train our new hires because I like consistent results, and I send them to advanced education classes.
MARKETING How do you promote your lash and brow services? My main method is simple: Do impeccable work — period. Your client is your billboard, and your personality is your platform! We also utilize social media by posting a lot of before and after photos. In addition, I have an email system that offers exclusive specials for existing clients on a monthly basis. Are your estheticians trained to promote different services after each treatment? Our staff makes suggestions to our clients about other services. Most of the staff is familiar with other services because they have received them themselves, but I like to utilize this approach because it gives the staff member a story to tell their client about their experience, and the rest falls into place!
INSIDER TIPS
Do you have any rituals for creating positive energy in your spa? The ritual for creating a stress free environment is simply to say “thank you” and “I appreciate all your hard work.” I try to make sure my staff knows they are greatly appreciated. Not just by saying simple words of affirmation but by getting them a card, or having a surprise gift, etc. I also make sure they know I have their back in situations like client complaints or something they don’t like. This is crucial because a staff member may feel like they are constantly in trouble or that you’re not approachable. Nothing is more stressful than feeling scared of your boss! What does your business do that makes it UNIQUE from the competition? Our quality. Our prices are in the median range for our area, but our quality of product and service is top-notch. If for some reason we cannot perform at our highest capacity, we offer discounted services. What advice would you pass along to those who want to achieve lash and brow business success in their spa? MASTER YOUR CRAFT. It is so easy to get caught up in offering the latest and greatest service, but if you are a jackof-all-trades and a master of none, you can struggle in the long run.
What trends are you currently seeing in the industry? Microblading and lash lifting. How do you perform consultations? Our consultations are done verbally before each visit. Our clients fill out a new history form each session. The reason for this is that most clients change their regimens and have no idea that it can affect their treatments. We customize according to these changes.
Jessica Berlanga
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LASHTATTOOS Permanent eyelash
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to create the illusion of thicker, darker
lashes in the spa by Rose Marie Beauchemin
Following the global interest in achieving fuller, more natural brows, fuller lashes have become the object of widespread desire. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies continue to develop eyelash products with ingredients to stimulate lash growth and density. Eyelash extensions, where individual lashes are attached (glued) to one’s own are the latest addictive trend, and false strip eyelashes are now even bigger than they were in the 1960s! Fuller and longer eyelashes make women feel more feminine and attractive. As further evidence of this lash craze, permanent eyelash enhancement in the form of “lash tattoos” is now becoming increasingly popular. Also known as “invisible eyeliner,” the permanent eyelash enhancement procedure implants color (by tattooing) between each eyelash, filling in the gaps to create the illusion of thicker, darker eyelashes without
the look of wearing makeup. Lash tattoos hold up in an area where regular makeup can’t — between the eyelashes. Makeup cannot stay in place here because of the constant presence of moisture in the eyes, which is reinforced with each blink. Hence, any attempt at applying regular makeup between the eyelashes is blinked away in a short amount of time. To help clients achieve everyday makeup ease, instruct them to visualize themselves emerging from the shower or pool and walking to their mirror. How do they see their face? Are their eyebrows overpowering their eyes? If their eyebrows have been microbladed or otherwise permanently enhanced, do they feel compelled to add their regular eyeliner to balance the intensity of the brows? Do their eyes simply appear washed out from light or thinning eyelashes? If the answer to any of these questions is
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image lash tattoos is yes, then lash tattoos are a perfect way to create a natural frame, make lashes appear fuller, balance color and make the eyes look more interesting. Essentially, lash tattoos make eyes appear complete, confident and ready to go! A lash enhancement is a simple and comfortable procedure. Generally, it takes much less time than even the smallest eyeliner procedure, since the work stays between the eyelashes and does not continue up onto the eyelids. This beautiful framework can be achieved either by a permanent makeup machine or a hand tool, depending on the practitioner’s level of expertise.
Price and Frequency To intensify the effect and create longevity of a lash enhancement procedure, it is often repeated in a six-week follow-up appointment. The frequency of the client’s required visits depends on the speed of their own lash growth, which affects the amount of time each procedure lasts. A lash enhancement procedure for both top and bottom enhancement ranges from around $550 to $700, usually including the six-week follow-up application. Typically, lash tattoos are expected to last a couple of years. The best possible results and a minimized risk of contraindications can be assured when clients follow the necessary pre and post-care instructions.
Pre-Procedure Instructions Clients must refrain from using any lash-growing products for a minimum of two weeks prior to the procedure, as use during this time causes excessive bleeding, making the procedure more sensitive and difficult for the client. Ultimately this could even affect color retention. These effects are due to the placement of lash-growing products at the lash base to stimulate the blood supply and promote the growth of the lashes, as this is the same area where the lash is tattooed. All lash extensions should be removed prior to lash enhancement pro92
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cedures. It is dangerous to proceed while the client is wearing lash extensions because bacteria adheres to the glue, and those wearing lash extensions cannot wash their eyes with the same efficacy as those not wearing extensions.
Day of Procedure Instructions Instruct clients to arrive with a clean, makeup-free face. The area is cleansed further prior to treatment, followed by a topical anesthetic that should be the same pH as the eyes. This is applied for approximately 30 minutes prior to a lash enhancement procedure to ensure the client’s comfort.
Post-Procedure Instructions The post-care instructions are quite simple. Clients can ice the treatment area that day. The following morning, they can wash with soap and water using the pads of their fingers (not a washcloth), and then pat lightly to dry. On the morning of the fourth day, instruct the client to apply a tiny amount of sterile petroleum jelly with a Q-tip. Provide your clients with these items so they don’t use anything from home that could possibly be contaminated. The permanent lash enhancement proce-
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dure should heal completely in five to seven days. During this time, the client must avoid the following: Eye makeup, especially mascara (applying while the eyes are healing can cause bacteria to gather and trigger an eye infection) Extreme sweating (including from exercise) Swimming Active skin care products and night creams False eyelashes Any form of tanning, including spray tanning Sunscreens Saunas Gardening or any activity that involves dirt Picking at area Topical antibiotics Mascara can be applied again once healing is complete. Lash-growing products can be resumed no sooner than two weeks post-procedure. Lash enhancement works beautifully with lash extensions since lash tattoos are placed between the extensions, making them appear fuller. Extensions may be re-applied two weeks following the procedure but removed once again for the touch-up visit. This visit can take place as early as five weeks following the procedure, but not sooner, because
Date
Location
Date
Location
Monday, August 7, 2017 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)
Hartford, Connecticut
Sunday, October 29, 2017 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)
Atlanta, Georgia
Monday, August 21, 2017 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)
Syracuse, New York
Monday, November 6, 2017 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)
Denver, Colorado
Monday, October 16, 2017 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)
Los Angeles, California
Monday, November 13, 2017 8AM-5PM (1 hour lunch break)
Miami, Florida
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image lash tattoos the tissue between the lashes is cartilaginous and takes a minimum of five weeks to fully heal.
Training Requirements
A Rewarding Career Permanent makeup provides an exceptional return on investment for any esthetic professional or spa business. A primary training course may cost approximately $4,500 (there may be an additional fee for an apprenticeship, depending on your state of practice). Equipment costs range from $2,000 to $3,400, in addition to needles and ancillary products. The cost output requires a small investment totaling approximately $10,000. The average permanent makeup procedure in the United States is about $500, although demographics play a key role in what a fee structure can bear, and advanced techniques such as microblading are often higher. Even if fees are at the lower end of the
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Training to perform permanent lash enhancement requires primary training that consists of a minimum of six days. Certification requires passing a blood borne pathogen test, additional pre-studies and homework, totaling 100 hours. This is the minimum for both the American Academy of Micropigmentation (AAM) and the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals. Understanding skin anatomy, eye anatomy, color theory and cross contamination is critical information a professional needs to proceed in this modality. Various states and townships have their own regulations. It is always advisable to contact your local Board of Health prior to taking a primary class so you know exactly where you are permit-
ted to work. Also, if permanent makeup is permitted in salons in your state, contact the State Board of Cosmetology to learn about their parameters.
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spectrum, a break even point can be reached quickly. At a treatment cost of $350, for example, a business can break even on a $10,000 investment in less than 30 procedures. At a treatment rate of $500, a break even point is reached after a mere 20 procedures. Add permanent lash enhancement service to your repertoire to offer your clients the latest cutting-edge trend in permanent makeup while providing your business with an additional lucrative revenue stream! Rose Marie Beauchemin is the owner and director of education for the Beau Institute of Permanent and Corrective Cosmetics. She brings her 25 years of experience and knowledge of makeup artistry and color theory into each training program offered at Beau. For more information, visit beauinstitute.com or call 888.763.2328. Contact Beauchemin at rosemarie@beauinstitute.com.
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