LNE & SPA February 2018 by LNE Magazine

LNE & Spaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the magazine for skin care and spa professionals February 2018

$7.50

LOVED BY SPA GUESTS “Absolutely the best skincare products available. Effective treatments with the utmost attention to clean, healthy ingredients.” – STEPHANIE S.

“The best facial products I have ever used.” – L AU R I E K .

“This product line by far is the best I have ever used. I recommend it for everyone, women and men.” – DWIGHT S.

“From my first facial, I fell in love with the products… I had instant results.” – L I N D S AY O.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #157 on reader service card

Loved by Spa Professionals. Loved by your Skin.

Partner with the spa industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most celebrated skin care company. To learn more, contact info@eminenceorganics.com

“

A lot of men have never had a facial before... the HydraFacial is the perfect [introduction]. It’s very gentle — you’re not doing anything that causes any downtime or irritation” David Hecker, MD

no pain. all gain. Not a facial

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #201 on reader service card

from the

editor

Bio-Therapeutic

TECHNOLOGY ACCELERATED

SKIN CARE

The skin care and spa industry forges ahead into another year of exciting growth, and it seems that innovative new tools and products are as abundant as the problems and concerns they are designed to treat. From LED to microcurrent, and ultrasound to radio frequency, the tools we have at our disposal are more powerful and more effective. For every client concern, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a flip of a switch to erase skin imperfections. As skin care and spa professionals, finding the balance between results-driven and wellness-focused treatments can be challenging. But just like anything in life, the answer lies somewhere in between. Blending the old with the new, combining technology with human touch, is the best path to a more comprehensive skin care and spa remedy. Our February 2018 Guide: Non-Invasive Tools helps you make the best decision when choosing where to focus your time, energy, and budget. Bring your clients the best possible care by utilizing the amazing technology at your fingertips, combined with your knowledge, passion, and healing touch. Also in this issueâ&#x20AC;Ś the votes are in! Get an exclusive look at the full lineup of 2018 LNE & Spa Best Award

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card

Winners! Chosen by your peers, these products are

recognized for their outstanding performance in 46 categories! From ampoules to oils and inner beauty superstars, these products earn the highest honor for their ability to make our clients look and feel beautiful. Thank you for voting this year, and for your loyal support as LNE & Spa continues to bring education, innovation and inspiration to the skin care and spa community. All the best,

bio-therapeutic.com

Cristina Beecham Managing Editor

mcristina@LNEonline.com February2018

LNEonline.com

Skin Care for life inside and outÂŽ

shop online anytime at bio-therapeutic.com Exclusive Supplier of all Advanced Technology for Dermalogica and the International Dermal Institute Worldwide Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card

February volume 33 number 2

contents cover

6 From the Editor 98 Advertiser Index 28 LNE & Spa Best Product Awards 2018

A Guide to Facial Devices

18 Over Exfoliated Skin

Radio Frequency Facts

LED Treatment Combinations

24 Skin News

spa

12 How to Combat Winter Skin

guide

12 How to Combat Winter Skin

Spa of the Month

Reishi Mushrooms

Shiatsu Massage

Organic and Wellness News

Spa News

84 Reishi Mushrooms

42 Shiatsu Massage 50

Behind the Spa Door

Expert Esthetics Educator

Facial Add Ons

Business News

52 Expert Esthetics Educator

image

business

65 Non-Invasive Tools Guide

o&w

skin

Courtesy of TCHIP COIFFURE PHOTO by MICHEL PEREZ

How to Establish a Loyal Clientele with Colette Kuhnsman

Bridal Makeup Packages

Image News

92 Bridal Makeup Packages

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

February2018

LNEonline.com

® EXCLUSIVE PRIVATE LABEL COSMETICS

Color Cosmetics... Skin Care... Mineral Makeup... Brushes & Accessories • Over 50 Years of Experience • Contract Manufacturing and Filling • R & D Laboratory for Custom Formulations • International Regulatory Department • Trend Setting Color Cosmetics and Quality Skin Care Products • GMP Compliant • Import & Export • Low Minimums

DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA SHOWROOM Coral Trace Office Park,

2605 West Atlantic Avenue, Suite C-102 Delray Beach, FL 33445, USA 1 (561) 272.2008

1 (866) 392.4889

1 (561) 272.2014 (FAX)

www.ladyburd.com

CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS LABORATORY / FACTORY / SHOWROOM 44 Executive Blvd., Farmingdale, NY 11735, USA 1 (631) 454.0444 1 (800) 345.3448 1 (631) 454.0445 (FAX)

sales@ladyburd.com

MIAMI BEACH FLORIDA SHOWROOM 407 Lincoln Road, Suite 10J,

Miami Beach, FL 33139, USA 1 (305) 674.1333 1 (800) 263.5743

1 (305) 674.1184 (FAX)

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #119 on reader service card

A L L A C C E S S

PRINT + DIGITAL SUBSCRIBE TODAY

3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, Florida 33134

USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Director of Sales AchĂŠ Saint ache@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47

C ontributors Cristina Beecham William James II Amy Gardner Eva Kerschbaumer Natalie IovinoErik Lieux Schoenfeld Erin Lucie

V I S I T

LNEONLINE.COM 10

February2018

LNEonline.com

Linda Marrical Bella Schneider Pam Stellema

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

COVER RECOVER THE NAME SAYS IT ALL

Cooling Customized cooling agents to cool, relieve, calm and soothe irritated skin, and to awaken and stimulate as an everyday breathable foundation.

Coverage Weightless yet buildable, seamlessly blends for undetectable, breathable coverage to transform to a flawless smooth appearance.

Recovery A blend of healing ingredients to recover skin after treatments, or to continue to improve and protect skin as an everyday foundation.

For more information about this intensive cooling camouflage that accelerates repair with natural coverage call 1-844-7DP-DERM | 1-844-737-3376 or visit us on the web:

Derm.com *Available in 8 shades. Suitable for all skin types and conditions, such as problematic, pigmented, traumatized, aged and sun damaged skin. Cover Recover is a member of the DP Dermaceuticalsâ&#x201E;˘ Family of products. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #170 on reader service card

February2018

LNEonline.com

How to Combat Winter Skin

Help your clients brave the cold with these tips to combat winter skin By Bella Schneider

The weather out there might be frightful, but your clients’ skin doesn’t have to be. Wintertime is particularly drying to skin because it reduces the sebum in the skin; the naturally occurring oil that literally “saves face” while holding moisture in the epidermis and protecting it from the elements. Humidity is low, both outdoors and indoors, due to cold air and indoor heating. That means the lack of moisture in the air strips hydration from the face and body, creating lasting flakiness, discomfort and even chapped lips, hands and feet. This dryness may even cause clients to scratch, causing the skin to become red, inflamed or scaly. As the stratum corneum dries out, it shrinks, causing small cracks to occur. This exposes the underlying living cells to irritating substances and germs in the environment. Soaps, harsh chemicals, aging, hormonal changes, diet and a lack of exercise can all aggravate winter dryness. Check out the following tips to fight this winter weather warfare:

LNEonline.com

February2018

Skin How to Combat Winter Skin

Winter Care Basics Harsh cleansers and exfoliants can cause severe dryness and worsen winter skin by stripping the skin of its natural oils. Use a cleanser that's mild, creamy or milky without harsh alcohols and fragrances. Choose face and body cleansers or soaps that have a "fatted" base, or oils such as olive oil or coconut oil added to them. Encourage your clients to limit their bath and shower time to ten minutes and use warm, rather than hot, water as prolonged water exposure can wash away the skin's natural protective oils. Encourage clients to use a humidifier in their homes. They replenish the moisture in the air and counter act the drying effects of heating in the winter months. A humidifier adds moisture by filtering air across a water-saturated wick, reducing dryness and irritation to the skin, nose, throat and lips. It also eases flu and cold symptoms. Clients can protect their skin from the elements by using gloves, a scarf and a hat when outside. Offer your clients hydrating gel gloves with natural oils and humectants to wear at night while they sleep.

CTMP (Cleanse, Treat, Moisturize, Protect) To keep winter skin healthy, stick to the basics. Think CTMP or Cleanse, Treat (Serum), Moisturize and Protect (Sunscreen). Use gentle, milky cleansers to cleanse the skin and remove makeup. These cleansers wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t strip the skin of its natural oils. Avoid gel formulas, which tend to be more drying. This is very important for maintaining the oil and moisture balance in the skin. Don't use hot water when cleansing, only cool or tepid water. It's difficult for sebaceous glands to produce enough oil to counteract harsh winter conditions. Skin will appear redder, flakier, chapped, irritated and may even develop rashes if it is over-washed. Serums are great for combating winter skin, as they are formulated with active ingredients such as vitamins and 14

February2018

LNEonline.com

antioxidants that are designed to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin to treat conditions like dryness and flaking. For a hydrating treatment, try a stable vitamin C oil or serum. This anti-oxidizes and protects skin immunity during the winter months. Vitamin C also keeps skin even and glowing. It protects skin from free radicals and reduces pigmentation, fine lines and increases collagen production. Choose a more occlusive moisturizer than the one you would normally choose for that client in the summer. And, definitely don't skip out on the sunscreen just because it's cooler outside. Continue to apply SPF 30 and encourage clients to reapply throughout the day. For immediate relief from dry winter skin, encourage clients to keep skin hydrated by moisturizing immediately after cleansing their face and body to replenish what skin loses in cleansing.

Offer those suffering with winter skin an extra hydrating night cream or luxurious face oil to apply at night in their humidified room. Don't forget the extremities! The skin on the lips has no sebum-producing oil glands to help protect it, so carry a rich balm available for retail to insulate the lips that clients can carry in their purses as well.

Moisturizing Ingredients When selecting products for winter skin facials, avoid those containing alcohol. But remember, not all alcohols are drying. Simple alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol, propanol and denatured alcohol used as anti-bacterials can dry out the skin. Aromatic alcohols such as benzoyl alcohol or fragrance components can dry and irritate the skin as well. Whereas fatty alcohols, such as cetearyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, have emollient and occlusive

Skin How to Combat Winter Skin

Hydrate, and Then Hydrate Again Skin is made up of 64 percent water and is largely dictated by your hydration levels. Water not only plumps the

skin, but it also encourages collagen production, which ensures the cohesion, elasticity and regeneration of skin. It also flushes toxins out of the body that lead to acne and scarring. Without adequate water levels, the skin becomes dull and fine lines, wrinkles, scars and pores appear exaggerated as the face essentially shrinks into its tightest position. So to fight winter dryness, encourage clients to drink eight or more glasses of water a day (at the minimum). Clients should drink water that is clean and nutritious; spring water packed with minerals or filtered water that is not exposed to BPA.

Exfoliate Less Switch to more gentle exfoliators like lactic acid or fruit enzymes and reduce the amount of physical exfoliating you do on your clients. Over exfoliation can cause skin reactivity in the form of dry patches or oily oozing. If you use ton-

Don't skip out on the sunscreen just because it's cooler outside. ers, switch to a gentle formulation with soothing ingredients like rose water or calendula. Reduce the strength of your exfoliation, and encourage clients to reduce their at-home exfoliation to once or twice a week. Apply a retinol one percent cream to breakdown the drying skin barrier and encourage cell turnover to prep the skin for resurfacing and hydration.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #142 on reader service card

characteristics and can actually keep the skin hydrated. Opt for non-clogging natural oils like jojoba, olive, coconut, primrose, almond and sunflower, apricot kernel, borage seed, argan and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E). Other powerful natural skin care moisturizers include cocoa butter and shea butter for supple, conditioned and glowing skin. In addition, seek out products with natural humectants to help attract water to the surface of the skin and deliver hydration and nutrients to the deeper layers as well, helping skin keep itself hydrated on a regular basis. Look for ingredients such as aloe, honey, hyaluronic acid and glycerin.

LNEonline.com

February2018

Skin How to Combat Winter Skin

Customize To Every Skin Type

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #219 on reader service card

Dry skin may need even more moisture, so seek out oil-based creams and cleansers to lock it in. Double down on the moisturizer as well. Double apply or use two different moisturizers in a row. Allow the first application to penetrate and absorb and then re-apply the second layer. For extra-dry skin patches, apply a layer of thick balm to create a layer of insulation from the cold or dry air. Apply an oil or mask for some extra quench. Sensitive or Rosacea skin can benefit from a gentle exfoliation wash with citric acid instead of hydroxides. These skin types require gentle and non-fra-

February2018

LNEonline.com

granced products for maximum soothing. Add a chamomile or calendula based moisturizer to your facial protocol to calm irritation. Oily skin needs moisture too, particularly if you are using treatments for breakouts. Overly drying products can trigger more dryness, itchiness and even breakouts. Use oil-free moisturizers or a concentrated serum thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lightweight in place of a heavy cream. More often than not, what is typically eliminated from serums is the oils (nut, mineral, seed, etc.) in a bid for a purer solution. Over 50: Reduce use of products with retinoid or alpha hydroxy acids. The skin is thinner and more sensitive

than it used to be so focus on hydration. All the wear and tear from the sun thins out the skin, so baby it with gentle massage and cooler water temperatures when cleansing.

Bella Schneider is the founder and CEO of LaBelle Day Spas & Salons and an international product formulator and distributor through Bella Schneider Beauty (BSB). In her 40 years of experience in skin care science, Schneider has been an innovator in ethnic skin care, peels and peer education.

Best Moisturizer BIO Lift CrĂ¨me

Nature beautifully meets science in this poly-peptide and plant stem cell infused moisturizer. Lift the years away and visibly reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with the best botanicals and the latest in anti-aging technology.

Award Winning Professional Skincare Learn how Lira Clinical is redefining aesthetics and pioneering anti-aging technology with cutting edge products that combine the best elements of nature and science. If you are interested in partnering with an awarding winning and results-driven skincare brand, contact us today.

www.liraclinical.com | Live

Love Lira

| 877.440.5472 | info@liraclinical.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #203 on reader service card

February2018

LNEonline.com

Over Exfoliated Skin Rescue your clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s over exfoliated skin and introduce proper home care By William James II

Exfoliation, exfoliation, exfoliation! We all want it for ourselves and for our clients; but truly understanding how exfoliation works is essential to not ruining the acid mantel of the skin by overdoing it and exfoliating too much. We exfoliate for many reasons. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to prevent aging or simply to dissolve the dead skin on the surface to provide a treatment to the new cells for correcting reasons, we can see the benefits of exfoliation. But what happens when a client takes it too far and over exfoliates with home care products?

LNEonline.com

February2018

Skin Over Exfoliated Skin

Recognize Over Exfoliated Skin First of all, it’s very important to be able to diagnose over exfoliated skin so we do not further damage what has already been done. Over exfoliated skin looks very tight, but mostly irritated with blotchiness and even redness. Generally, the client will describe their skin as highly sensitive and, even at times, you will see flakiness and peeling of the top layer of skin. Most importantly, the skin will be super dry and dehydrated due to the loss of the acid mantel.

Why Do Clients Over Exfoliate? Imagine how your skin would feel if you were constantly over exfoliating using a facial scrub on a daily basis? You are never allowing the skin to heal! Clients might not be aware of the damages they are doing to themselves. We all have the acne client that believes scrubbing their skin will solve everything, almost like the sandpaper effect but for skin texture. How can clients get these products? Unfortunately, we live in a world where our clients have access to products that only a professional should be 20

February2018

LNEonline.com

recommending or performing on them. The Internet is full of chemical peels that claim they can treat any condition, whether it’s true or not. Clients buy products online because they want them cheaper or they want to use them more often at home and not have to wait for their treatment with their licensed skin care professional. In the 90s, glycolic acid first hit the skin care market and it was very successful. But, we did not understand the repercussions of over doing it. Chemical peels on the Internet are not the only culprits in over exfoliated skin. We recommend products after their skin treatment for a reason. We just performed a treatment on their skin and with our professional knowledge, we know what products would be appropriate to maintain their skin health. The only products that your clients should be using are products that a professional uses and recommends. Too often, clients don’t want to invest in quality products and we find them using drug store products. I find it very important to ask clients what kind of products they use at home for home care. Always remember to educate your clients that anything that can be bought without a licensed skin care professional is not going to

continue their skin results that you both have been working on at the spa. Most over-the-counter products cannot even maintain proper skin health. For example, many harsh drug store cleansers have salicylic and glycolic acids in them. We teach our clients to cleanse twice a day, but what happens when they are using a harsh cleanser twice a day and continually removing the acid mantel on the skin? A dermatologist can also have a lot of effects on what people are using on their skin. We have heard from clients, “Oh, I only use what my dermatologist gives me.” I respect anyone who is undergoing a corrective treatment with a dermatologist and needs the home care, but the biggest difference between an esthetician and a dermatologist is that a dermatologist will often prescribe over the counter creams, cleansers, and exfoliants. Another common drug we hear being prescribed from clients’ dermatologists is retinol. Retinols are great for corrective reasons and can treat anything from acne to aging skin, but they are often not taken seriously when clients are prescribed the drug. Most commonly, clients will develop some pigmentation in their skin due to the lack of UV protection. Clients will over sensitize their skin and cause further damage with these strong prescriptions; so always educate on when to use them and how often and why they are using them.

Rescue Your Client’s Skin Now that we know how clients over exfoliate and what it looks like, how can we treat it? Hydration, hydration, hydration! You always need to remember to treat over exfoliated skin as skin that is highly sensitive. Our job is to hydrate and protect the skin and give it back the acid mantel that the client has been destroying on their skin. A great protocol for a client that over exfoliates should always begin with a cleanser that soothes the irritation. The cleanser can incorporate in-

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #294 on reader service card

Skin Over Exfoliated Skin gredients such as olive extracts, shea butter, etc. I would not incorporate any exfoliation in this facial. You don’t want to increase any unnecessary stimulation, since they have already been doing that for you at home. If they are coming to you about over exfoliated skin, you don’t need to do it. Clients will also expect steam in facials and if your client is persistent and wants steam incorporated in this facial, perform only a light steam under the cleanser. This will help open the pores slightly to receive the next step, facial massage. A great facial massage with a hydrating serum to penetrate the skin, like hyaluronic acid, would be the most ideal. After the facial massage, mask your client to lock in the serum that you infused during the facial massage. A mask that incorporates aloe vera is an excellent choice for this client due to its highly soothing properties. Even with an acne client, it will not cause any further breakouts. After the mask, protect your client with an appropriate moisturizer with UV

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #133 on reader service card

protection. The facial should be kept very simple with this client because all we want to do is protect and provide the nutrients they are depleting from their skin on a daily basis.

Education and Home Care It’s very important to educate clients on exfoliation. Teach them how many times they should be exfoliating and how they should exfoliate and what to use. For example, mature skin needs more exfoliation due to the natural cellular turnover process slowing down, so they should exfoliate to prevent aging. But, they will only make the skin age faster and damage it by over exfoliating. If the skin can never fully heal, it won’t ever have a chance to rebuild the acid mantel on the surface that the client destroyed. The acid mantel is highly important due to the acidic film that needs to always be on the surface of the skin. Without the acid mantel, the skin is highly sensitive to environmental fac-

tors such as bacteria and pigmentation and you are even increasing the aging process of the skin. Home care is so very important to teach your client. Everyone’s skin condition and type is different, but keeping it simple is the most important. They should be using serums that have hydrating properties and they should be consistent with sunscreen usage. Understand that they are still going to want to exfoliate at home, so incorporate a home care mask in their regimen, as well.

William James II is a licensed skin care therapist and body wrapper. William studied and completed medical esthetics at the Florida College of Natural Health's paramedical program. William distinguishes himself as a highly knowledgeable skin care therapist with a loyal clientele and an extreme passion for what he does. You can also find William working at skin care trade shows with the skin care line, Repêchage.

H2 Rapid Diffusion Therapy Cream •Provides Instant Hydration with Hyaluronic Acid

•Removes Free Radicals with Hydrogen (H2)

•Reduces Inflammation w/ Curcominoids

Call 1-800-951-7005 www.halecosmeceuticals.com February2018

LNEonline.com

W E N

Your Search is complete ™

Introducing the newest advancement in dual purpose creme Versatility has been mastered with new Bon Vital’® Complete, a premium dual purpose creme that flawlessly combines the features of an oil and lotion, so you can transition from high glide to deep tissue with ease. Marula, Olive, Avocado and Jojoba Oils provide intense hydration and skin restoration, while Arnica, Horse Chestnut and Ivy Extracts are known to soothe soreness when combined with massage. It’s time to unlock your complete™ potential.

from IDE GL HIGH

H Y P OA L L E R G E N I C UNSCENTED

bonvital.com Bon Vital’® and complete™ trademarks are property of Performance Health and/or its affiliates and may be registered in the United States and other countries. Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited. ©2017 — Performance Health. All rights reserved. P09427

to SUE TIS DEEP

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #265 on reader service card

Try it today for free at bonvital.com/completesample

Face with a View This Face with a View multi-tasking skin regenerator from Cortarde is a luxurious concentrated cream base that moisturizes, firms and slows down the formation of wrinkles in a vector-precise way! This hot new product stimulates skin aquaporins (skin’s water channels), boosts collagen production and strengthens the skin while its opulent texture provides comforting and smoothing anti-stress effects!

305.440.8709 cotarde.com

Celluma FDA-cleared to treat acne, wrinkles and pain, Celluma is an aesthetic and wellness powerhouse delivering superior LED Light Therapy. Celluma is a soothing, non-invasive option to enhance results following any ablative treatment. Its age-defying and acne-fighting energy is ideal for those seeking younger, healthier skin. Clinically proven, hands-free and affordable.

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

SkinNews

714 978 0080 biophotas.com

Time to Rejuvenate! Changing weather can be a nightmare for everyone’s skin, especially when you have a sensitive complexion. Visha Skin Care’s Advanced RejuVenating Moisturizer is the solution for those that need an extra boost during the changing seasons. This product is an emollient cream that restores moisture, suppleness and overall skin firmness for a fresher, more youthful-looking appearance. Perfect for hormonally challenged skin types!

1.844.847.4248 vishaskincare.com

Face Firming This concentrated, creamy Collagen Peptide Serum from Le Mieux Cosmetics is a potent blend of four skin-contouring peptides, moisture-binding hyaluronic acid, nourishing ceramides, and marine algae extract that dramatically improve the appearance of sagging facial contours. Double-encapsulated, timed-release technology provides targeted absorption. This product features teprenone, a plant derivative that protects the tips of chromosomes, extending the lifespan of skin cells and facilitating cellular repair.

Visit LNEonline.com for more news 24

February2018

1.888.327.8188 lemieuxcosmetics.com LNEonline.com

Industry Talk

whether it is a serum or a physical barrier, has the potential of diminishing energy delivery. The good news is that light energy is likely to enhance the effectiveness of ANY topical product applied after light therapy. As a skin care professional, you should choose the products that you think are best for your clients. The Celluma will work great with whatever you choose!

Q: What’s one thing we all should know about LED Light Therapy?

With C.E.O Patrick L. Johnson Q: What brought you into the

skin care industry? Prior to founding BioPhotas, and inventing the Celluma Light Therapy Device, I had been in the medical device industry for nearly 20 years, the last ten as an executive officer in a publicly-traded med device company manufacturing powered surgical equipment. The company and I were doing well, but I began to see that these products were promoting poor behavioral habits and poor personal health decisions. This inspired me to shift away from surgical devices, and instead seek out a non-toxic, non-invasive way for people to care for themselves in a more natural way.

Q: So how did you discover Light Therapy?

After months of reading the clinical literature on Light Therapy, I was impressed by the breadth, depth and robustness of the research and its many therapeutic benefits, particularly in the areas of skin care and pain

management. I also found that the expense of the technology was far out of reach for most people. So I saw this as a great opportunity.

Q: Tell me more about how your vision for this opportunity evolved?

Given my background in orthopedics, where we used thermal devices closely contoured to the area of treatment to accelerate wound healing and manage pain, it occurred to me that Light Therapy devices should do the same . . . wrap closely to the surface of the skin to optimize energy absorption and allow a highly customizable treatment. It turns out my intuition was supported by the basic laws of optical physics.

Q: What products should be used with the Celluma?

Our recommendation is always to deliver Light Therapy on clean, dry and open skin. Anything you put on the skin during light therapy treatment,

To a significant degree, many esthetic treatments intentionally insult the skin in order to elicit a healing response in the area of skin treated. However, this wounding of the tissue also triggers an undesirable inflammatory response . . . the body’s natural protection mechanism against further injury. Unfortunately, this inflammatory response also impedes healing, so we end up working against ourselves. What’s so unique about Light Therapy is that we are able to trigger, bio-chemically, a healing response without the inflammation.

Q: So that’s what makes Celluma a great stand-alone or adjunctive treatment?

Exactly! Used alone, in place of more invasive treatments, it is an ideal treatment for turning back on compromised cellular functions that have been interrupted by trauma, disease, illness, bad behavioral habits or just normal aging. As an adjunctive treatment, Light Therapy pairs beautifully with other treatments because it can speed cellular healing created by intentional wounding, decreasing down time and increasing results.

Presented by

by BioPhotas.com (714) 978.0080 info@biophoptas.com

February2018

LNEonline.com

PHILADELPHIA, PA April 22 & 23, 2018 Pennsylvania Convention Center The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice. Retail Conference • Business Conference • Wellness Conference Mindfulness Conference • Makeup Trends Conference Marketing Conference • Social Media Conference Product Focused Training • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities

SPONSORED BY

Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program or visit us at www.LNEonline.com USA: 305.443.2322 / FAX: 305.443.1664

LNEonline.com

February2018

Ampoules Circ Cell, Vitamin C Ampoules circcell.com

Aromatherapy Shankara, Essence Lotus Rose Oil shankara.com

Anti-Cellulite Bath Soak

Bioslimming, Bioslimming Wrap bioslimming.com

Farmhouse Fresh, Lemongrass Ocean Gourmet Mineral Bath Soak farmhousefreshgoods.com

Acne Vivant Skin Care, BP 3% Acne Wash vivantskincare.com

February2018

LNEonline.com

CBD Cannaisseur Brands, CBD Body Cream cannaisseurbrands.com

Body Lotion Laguna Herbals, Whipped Body Butter lagunaherbals.com

Beauty Oil Karin Herzog, Apricot Oil us.karinherzog.com

Brightening Eminence Organic Skin Care, Bright Skin Overnight Correcting Cream eminenceorganics.com

Cleanser Circadia, Micro-Exfoliating Honey Cleanser circadia.com

Body Exfoliant Image Skincare, Exfoliating Body Scrub imageskincare.com

Brow RevitaLash, RevitaBrow Advanced Eyebrow Conditioner revitalash.com LNEonline.com

February2018

Detox M’lis, Detoxification – Rejuvenating Body Cleanse mlis.com

Eye Treatment Caviar of Switzerland, Intensive Eye Treatment caviarofswitzerland.com

Face Mist Equipment for the Body

Glo Skin Beauty, Calming Flower Mist

Vichy Shower from Equipro, Vichy Shower

gloskinbeauty.com

equipro-bty.com

Face Exfoliant Equipment for the Face Hydrafacial, Hydrafacial MD hydrafacial.com 30

February2018

LNEonline.com

Osmosis Skincare, Enzyme Smoothing Polish osmosisskincare.com

Inner Beauty Skinade, Skinade skinade.com

Lash Minkys, Volume Lashes extendyourlashes.com

Innovative Face Handheld

Cosmedix, Detox Activated Charcoal Mask

Sesderma, Nanopore Microneedling System

cosmedix.com

Lash Conditioner Grande Cosmetics, GrandeLash MD grandecosmetics.com

sesdermausa.com

Hair Removal

Light Therapy

Brazilian Blue, Hard Wax

Biophotas, Celluma PRO

resinebyhairaway.com

biophotas.com LNEonline.com

February2018

Lips

Mircocurrent

Conscious Choice, Eternal Rose Certified Organic Lip Balm

Bio-Therapeutic, bt-nano bio-therapeutic.com

makeaconsciouschoice.com

Makeup

Moisturizer

Blinc, Mascara Amplified

Lira Clinical, BIO Lift Crème with PSC

blincinc.com

liraclinical.com

Massage Bon Vital’, Bon Vital’ Complete Massage Crème bonvital.com

Mud

Mask DermAware, Organic Silk Mask

Martinni Beauty, Purifying Peel Off Mud Mask

dermaware.com

matinnibeauty.com

Men’s Line France Laure, Hydra-Balm Day & Night Facial Moisturizer francelaure.com

February2018

LNEonline.com

This multifunctional cleanser utilizes patented organic micro-beads of natural beeswax to gently cleanse and exfoliate while absorbing excess oil.

(800)630-4710 |www.Circadia.com | info@Circadia.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #101 on reader service card

Neck & Decollete SilcSkin, Decollete Pads silcskin.com

Peptides Environ, Vita-Peptide C-Quence Serum

Peel

environskincare.com

Glymed Plus, YOUTH Firm Age Defying Peel glymedplus.com

Pre & Post Wax Go My Skin, After The Wax Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cream gomyskin.com

February2018

LNEonline.com

Retinol Control Corrective, Retinol C Serum controlcorrective.com

Permanent Makeup Nouveau Contour, iQ Device nouveaucontourusa.com

Stem Cell LucrĂ¨ce, Stem Cell Replenishing Serum lucrece.com

Serum Silver Shell Beauty, Regenerative Serum silvershellbeauty.com

LNEonline.com

February2018

Sunless Glow Fake Bake USA, 60 Minute Self-Tan Liquid us.fakebake.com

Spa Software Spaware Software, Salon Software salonsoftware.com

Organic Eminence Organic Skin Care, Cornflower Recovery Serum eminenceorganics.com

Spray Tanning Infinity Sun, Spa Lite infinitysun.com

Sun Care Line M.A.D. Skincare, Hyper Sheer SPF 50 Water Resistant Body Sunscreen mad-skincare.com

February2018

LNEonline.com

Probiotic Cooling Mask A pre and pro-biotic blend that helps strengthen the skin’s natural defenses and promotes radiance. Containing Polymnia Sonchifolia (Root) Juice, Turmeric Extract, and Lime Extract • Turmeric Root Extract - Soothes Stressed Skin • Lime Extract - Brightening and Skin Renewal • Polymnia Sonchifolia (Root) Juice, Lactobacillus Strengthens Skin’s Defenses

Root Juice

Turmeric Root Lime Extract

“Inspired by Nature, Realized by Science” LUCRÈCE PHYSICIANS’ AESTHETIC RESEARCH | 800.626.7546 • www.lucrece.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #263 on reader service card

The Harkness Salon & Spa in McCammon, Idaho

February2018

LNEonline.com

How Spa Director Arianne Hunsaker creates a small town oasis By Cristina Beecham

Located in a town of only 800 people, The Harkness Salon & Spa was designed with the intention of creating a memorable high-end metropolitan experience in a small town. The inspiration of the spa’s design came from the history of the building itself and was furthered by adding splashes of modern amenities for an unexpected luxurious, one-of-a-kind sanctuary. Antique maple floors from an old tobacco factory in Alabama were brought in to keep the integrity of the design. A large crystal chandelier with over 1,000 crystals hangs above the front desk; and the spa’s massage and esthetics room features a stunning 10-foot walk-in shower with a 20-inch rain head projected from the ceiling. Outside the normal expectations of a spa in the rural town in Idaho, The Harkness Salon & Spa is a beautifully designed haven of peace, tranquility, and wellness.

SPA OF THE MONTH

SIGNATURE TREATMENT The spa’s most popular attraction is the Signature Pedicure ($40/1 hour). From the moment clients put their feet in the warm jelly solution, to the finishing lower leg and foot massage, they know they are being treated to a memorable experience. Spa owner and director, Arianne Hunsaker, states on the signature treatment, “What sets this service apart from other pedicures is that we use a dissolvable jelly solution that retains heat, soothes aching joints and muscles, and softens callouses.” During the service, the jelly is used as an exfoliant on the feet and lower legs. “Nails are trimmed, cuticles are pushed back, and calluses are scrubbed down.” Once the jelly is dissolved, the staff rinses the client’s feet and legs and they are then dried with warm towels and followed up with a relaxing lower leg and foot massage before the color gloss is applied. “Time and time again, our clients comment on the calming sensation that the jelly creates and how they are put in a zen-like state,” Arianne mentions.

LNEonline.com

February2018

MARKETING The spa successfully executed a grandopening open house during the time of their official launch. Spa owners Aaron and Arianne Hunsaker sent over 5,000 custom-designed invitations to the surrounding community as a way of introducing themselves. The invitations included a 10 percent off coupon that could be used on any service that the spa provides. Since their grand opening launch, the spa has also implemented quarterly sales and specials on specific products and services to drive clients through their door. To further their promotion of the newly opened spa, the spa was featured on the front page of the local newspaper announcing that they have officially opened inside The Harkness Hotel. The hotel also informs their guests of the spa’s opening upon check-in and when they receive their confirmation emails. The spa has an online presence that consists of their website and social media channels, including Facebook and Instagram. “We also joined the local Chamber of Commerce, which includes the local tourist attractions near Lava Hot Springs,” Hunsaker states, “We have participated in local events at the Rock The Rock Pebble Creek Ski area, Pocatello Pride Week, and Marsh Valley Rodeo, where we offer chair massages, as well.” The spa also provides their menu of services to various businesses and lodging establishments in the area to help promote their grand opening. Aaron and Arianne plan to explore more marketing options as well, once their business grows and becomes more established.

TRAINING To train their staff and assure everything runs smoothly on a daily basis, Aaron and Arianne provide on-site computers for spa policy training and new product and service training. Employees are also provided with a ‘pot of money’ that they can use annually to attend continuing 40

February2018

LNEonline.com

education classes. “What this means is, on an annual basis, our employees have access to a set amount of money that they can use towards continuing their education. To do this, they must submit their receipts to us and they are then reimbursed in their next paycheck for the course.” Arianne states. The spa management also holds hour-long quarterly staff meetings to discuss new ideas regarding marketing and promotions, to improve the overall business, and to address any concerns that may have been brought up by the staff or by clients. Also on a quarterly basis, the spa staff must participate in informal interviews with the management to address their performance and any changes that can be made to improve the quality of the treatments and services that they specifically are per-

forming. To incentivize their employees to stay motivated, Aaron and Arianne offer tiered commission levels and a number of other specials and discounts regarding products and services.

RETAIL To determine their retail lineup, Aaron and Arianne researched, tested and evaluated various skin care lines and private label manufacturers. The majority of the products the spa owners ended up selecting are naturally sourced, free from dyes, and synthetic scents. “The products we retail in the spa are organic, effective for each different type of skin, and are environmentally friendly to boot!” Arianne states. To incentivize clients to purchase their retail products, the owners be-

Spa Director Spotlight: In 2014, Aaron and Arianne Hunsaker moved from D.C. to renovate a 1906 bank building and turned it into a luxury boutique hotel, The Harkness Hotel. The Harkness Salon & Spa was added in 2017 because both Aaron and Arianne wanted to offer their guests and the community a place where they can indulge in pampering and relaxation. They strived to create a space that mirrors the elegance and feel of the hotel as well as provides the hotel guests with additional things to do when they stay. Their life experiences have helped shape the business that they have created.

lieve in describing the benefits of the products to the clients while they are being used during the treatment or service. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This guides the client into not only understanding the benefits of the products we are using on them during their treatments, but also helps them to experience it first hand, which inevitably leads to product sales.â&#x20AC;?

Launch: May 2017 Spa Owners and Directors: Aaron and Arianne Hunsaker Amenities: Three treatment rooms: one primarily focused on esthetic services, one with 10-foot walk-in shower, one couples massage room

Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspi-

Rundown

Spa Revenue Composition: 60 percent massage, 25 percent pedicures, 10 percent facials/skin care, 5 percent retail

The Harkness Salon & Spa 204 Center Street McCammon, ID 83250

Client Ratio: 85 percent female, 15 percent male; 70 percent local, 30 percent non-local

harknesssalonspa.com

Staff: Three massage therapists, one esthetician, six stylists

ration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com

208-254-5232 LNEonline.com

February2018

LNEonline.com

Shiatsu Massage Turn a facial treatment into an experience with Shiatsu massage techniques By Linda Marrical

A good facial is sure to feature potent and luxurious skin care; but an exceptional facial includes a great hand and foot massage. Massage is often what sets a treatment apart from an experience. As service providers, our goal is to always leave our clients with an unforgettable experience and an increased sense of well-being. Taking that next step to ensure ultimate results and relaxation makes a huge difference. Shiatsu, a Japanese form of massage, will not only deeply relax your client, but it will also help to balance their entire body, leaving them with a renewed sense of peace and wellness. Shiatsu, meaning finger pressure in Japanese, uses thumb and palm pressure applied to acupoints found along the meridians that run throughout the body.

LNEonline.com

February2018

Spa Shiatsu Massage

Thumbing

According to this ancient practice, every part of the body is made of energy, or chi. The chi is concentrated along the meridians. There are 12 principle meridians, each corresponding to major organs and having either entry or exit points found in the hands or feet. The 12 principle meridians include: Lung - Starts on chest in front of shoulder, finishes in thumb Large Intestine - Starts in index finger, finishes at side of nostril Stomach - Starts under eye, finishes in second toe Spleen - Starts in big toe, finishes at side of chest Heart - Starts under armpit, finishes in little finger Small Intestine - Starts in little finger, finishes in front of ear Urinary Bladder - Starts at inside corner of eye, finishes in little toe Kidney - Starts on sole of foot, finishes at top of chest Heart Constrictor - Starts beside nipple, finishes in middle finger Triple Burner - Starts in fourth finger, finishes by outside corner of eyebrow Gall Bladder - Starts at outside corner of eye, finishes in fourth toe 44

February2018

LNEonline.com

Liver - Starts in big toe, finishes on front of chest or below nipple.

Starting at the bicep on the little finger side of the arm, massage the Heart meridian using the thumb to apply pressure. Without losing contact, gently press down about every inch down and out through the client’s little finger. This is the same technique as palming, except you are now focusing on specific meridians using your thumb. Repeat several times. Next, move to the Pericardium meridian on the center of the bicep and, using the same thumbing technique, go down the arm and out the middle finger. Repeat several times. Begin the Lung meridian by starting on the thumb side of bicep and thumb down the arm and out through the client’s thumb. Repeat several times. Use the palming technique again to finish or “close” the inside of the arm.

Yin and Yang Shiatsu is an ideal tool for any esthetician to compliment their facial services and provide not only great skin care, but also overall health and wellness for their clients.

Shiatsu Routine for Arm and Hand There is no need to apply massage cream or oil when performing Shiatsu, as it is normally done on top of the clothing. Using some essential oils for added aromatherapy is a great compliment to the treatment, but it is not necessary.

Palming Begin by placing the arm palm side up and “palm” from the top of the arm down to the fingers. “Palming” is a massage technique where the open palm is placed on the arm surface. Without losing contact, gently press down about every inch and slowly slide down through the palm and to the fingers. Palming should be done very slowly. As you press, visualize that you are pressing through the skin into the tissues below. Repeat several times.

Turn the arm over, palm side down. Now begin palming at the fingers and palm up the arm to the same bicep area. The reason the direction has changed is that the Yin meridians on the inside of the body flow differently than the Yang meridians on the outside of the body.

Thumbing Start with the tip of the index finger at the Large Intestine meridian, and thumb up the index finger side of the arm and up to the bicep area. Repeat as before with the inside, or Yin, meridians. Next, start at the ring finger for the Triple Burner meridian, thumbing up the center of the arm. Last is the Small Intestine, which begins on the little finger and up the side of the arm. Once again, finish with the palming technique. We are not as concerned with each individual acupoint that is found along the meridians. By using the thumbing technique, we are in fact touching each of them. Continue by doing the other arm, and you are ready to begin the feet!

the

FUTURE

of youthfulness The Youth EssentiA® Range from Environ –

this complete skin care range pushes the boundaries of time by enriching skin with a highly effective combination of powerful vitamins, antioxidants and peptides that work together to create healthier-looking skin that glows with youthful radiance, helping women around the globe to look younger for longer.

Environ’s Vitamin STEP-UP SYSTEM™ The Vita-Peptide C-Quence serums form part of this unique system which was specifically designed to help skin become gradually more comfortable with increased levels of vitamin A and other ingredients that keep skin looking healthy and beautiful for life.

The Dynamic Duo The Youth EssentiA® serums are specifically designed to work together with the Defence Crèmes. The “dynamic product duo” targets the visible signs of aging and assists in improving and maintaining a more youthful, even and radiant-looking complexion.

Contact DermaConcepts today to find out how Environ Skin Care can build your business. info@dermaconcepts.com 508.539.8900

www.environskincare.com

EnvironSkinCare

@Environ_Global

Say you sawLNEonline.com it in LNE & Spa and circle #116 February2018 on reader service card

Spa Shiatsu Massage Repeat these steps on the other leg and foot.

Breakdown: Shiatsu of the Leg and Foot • Palm down leg with both hands • Thumb down along each toe bone along foot • Lightly squeeze the bottom of foot • Lightly pinch tip of each toe • Repeat on other leg

Breakdown: Shiatsu of the Arm and Hand • Palm down arm with palm of hand facing up • Thumb down along each of the meridians • Close with repeated palming • Palm up arm with palm of hand facing down • Thumb up along each of the meridians • Repeat on other arm

Shiatsu Routine for Leg and Foot The leg and foot meridians can be a little more complicated, so a modified version of what was done for the hands will work great and still provide health benefits. The best method is to do one leg and foot at a time. As with the arm and hands, the client can be fully clothed. You can use massage lotion for the feet, but it is not necessary.

Palming Start by palming the first leg using both 46

February2018

LNEonline.com

hands. Place one hand on the backside of the leg, and the other on the front side at the outside section of the leg. Palm from below the knee, down to the ankle and repeat several times. Again, work slowly and visualize that you are touching below the surface of the skin.

Now move to the foot Start by holding the foot with both hands. Using your thumb and starting at the ankle, press down the top of the foot along the bone of the big toe while also pressing the fingers along the bottom of the foot, squeezing lightly. Then, lightly pinch the tip of the big toe. Next, use the same technique and go from the ankle and out the second toe. Repeat the same for the fourth toe. Lastly, you will start under the ankle and press down through the little toe bone and out to the end of the little toe, pinching the tip. Repeat several times. Depending on how much time you have allotted for massage, feel free to use any additional massage techniques that you like to finish.

You can adjust this Shiatsu routine to meet your time needs. It is fine to do just the hands or just the feet. You can skip the repetition of palming and thumbing if you are short on time. Once is enough. Add massage techniques that you are presently using that work well for you. Make this Shiatsu technique your own! Technique is most certainly important, however intention is what makes any treatment exceptional. Don’t over-worry about doing each meridian with perfection. Relax and be present with your client. Allow yourself to breathe and stay in tune with what you are feeling with your hands. If the body pulls back, apply less pressure. When the pressure is right, you can feel the body relax under your fingertips. The more you practice, the better your technique will become. Being a body therapist for many years, I can assure you that if you forget any part of the Shiatsu routine described here, the client will never know and will completely love the treatment you provide. Relax, breathe and enjoy!

Linda Marrical is an acupressure/shiatsu practitioner and owner of The Healing Touch Center in Havertown, Pa. Her holistic center offers acupressure, shiatsu, massage, facials, skin care products and herbal products for pain. Marrical created Life Lift, The Acupressure/Shiatsu Healthy Aging Treatment. She offers continuing education classes for estheticians and massage practitioners. For more information visit healing-touch-center.com.

Lips look plumper & feel hydrated*

G IN AT DR HY

97%

SS LO G R PE UM PL E

IN LIP

LIN

90%

LIQ UI P AP LU M DR HY

97%

Comfortable to wear semi-matte formula* *Smoked Sherry shade shown

YOUR

BETTER

LIP

Prevents lipstick bleeding*

LIPS DESERVE

& local distributors * Percentage based on consumer perception studies www.grandecosmetics.com | www.grandewholesale.com | 1.877.835.3010 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #286 on reader service card

Urban Rejuvenation This first-of-its-kind Urban Anti-Pollution Essence from CBI Labs bathes skin in refreshing hydration while delivering the highest concentration of anti-pollution ingredients, including a unique macroalgae which helps fight effects of air pollution and a marigold derived, lutein-rich isolate that helps filter exposure from blue light-emitting electronic devices. After application of this waterlike essence, the skin is ready to welcome all subsequent serums and creams. The effect is visibly rejuvenated and more radiant skin.

800.822.7546 cbiskincare.com

Gleaming Gold Go for the gold and adorn arms, legs and dĂŠcolletĂŠ with this gorgeous golden Caviar & Carat Gleaming Gold Dry Oil Spray from Bella Schneider Beauty. Sweet almond and olive oils nourish and smooth, while rejuvenating moringa seed oil strengthens skin elasticity. This eyecatching shimmer keeps all heads turned in your client's direction!

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

SPANews

650.321.3915 bellaschneiderbeauty.com

Complete Creme NEW from Bon Vital'! This Complete Massage Creme is a premium, hypoallergenic dual purpose creme that flawlessly combines the features of an oil and lotion, making it extremely versatile and ideal for techniques and modalities ranging from high glide to deep tissue. Formulated with a unique blend of ingredients to restore, moisturize, and soothe skin and sore muscles, this product is ideal for the ultimate therapeutic, relaxing full body massage that benefits both the therapist and the client.

800.253.6466 bonvital.com

Honey, Me! Patented microbeads of natural beeswax inside this Micro-Exfoliating Honey Cleanser from Circadia gently cleanse and exfoliate the skin while absorbing excess oil. Perfect for all skin types, this product is both fragrance-free and sulfate-free and uses a mild cleansing agent that generates foam to allow a balance of pH levels in the skin, resulting in a pleasant and brightened after feel!

800.630.4710 circadia.com

Visit LNEonline.com for more news 48

February2018

LNEonline.com

NEW

ESSENTIAL INFUSION DRY OIL

Intensely nourishes, replenishes and illuminates the skin

Helps protect the skin’s moisture barrier

Provides a sense of well-being

Exclusively in G.M. Collin spas. Visit www.gmcollin.com to locate a spa near you. Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #115 on reader service card

INSPIRATION • How did you get involved in the spa industry? As a teenager, I struggled with my skin. As the years went on, I wanted to be able to help other teens and adults who had the same struggle and guide them in the process of becoming confident in their own skin.

• How did you develop the concept of your spa?

Behind The Spa Door with Ansley Reese, Spa owner of Ansley Marie’s Salon & Spa

When I began designing my spa, I envisioned beautiful chandeliers, a serene atmosphere for my clients to immediately relax, and I imagined the comforting smell of lavender, invigorating peppermint, and a mix blend of essential oils to suit each of my clients’ senses. I made this dream a reality when I designed my spa!

LEADERSHIP ROLE • What daily challenges do you encounter as a spa owner? I am constantly challenging myself to make sure that we are giving all of our clients the correct education on all of our professional products and why the professional products we retail are so important to use on a daily basis.

• How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? I love to read self-help books and positivethinking books! I also love to play with my sweet miniature dachshund puppy that always helps with any stress I am experiencing after a long day at work! Also, it never hurts to take time for yourself and get a nice, relaxing massage or facial!

• What takes most of your time every day? Continually training my team to be successful and constantly educating them about new products and how to market themselves takes up a lot of my time each and every day. I love keeping my team positive and motivated to help them build their relationships with their clients!

February2018

LNEonline.com

TEAM BUILDING

RETAIL

• What is your hiring process?

• Do you educate your clients on your retail products?

I conduct a very thorough interview and require a performed service so that I know exactly what the applicant’s touch is and how they talk with clients during a treatment. This industry is constantly changing and we want to make sure that all of our team members, even the new ones, are up to date on the newest and latest trends!

• How do you select the employees that are going to be working with you? I select team members who are highly motivated, goal-oriented and want to become extremely successful in this industry. My standards for all new team members are to maintain a positive attitude, build client relationships and enjoy continuing education.

• How do you evaluate employees? Evaluation of our team members is done on a monthly basis. I speak directly with each employee on what their monthly goals are and how they are going to achieve them. The team member and I will also set new goals to strive for.

• How do you train members of your staff? We participate in education classes and enjoy learning from each other to make sure that we are completely up to date on our product knowledge.

• What tactics do you use to keep your employees incentivized? Whether it’s us enjoying a wine night together as a team building event or a ladies night event that involves us surrounding ourselves with inspiring women in the community, we like to have fun! We also enjoy going to networking meetings together as a team!

Educating our clients on why they need to go home with a skin care system and regime is definitely what we always strive for. We pull the products that we recommend and talk privately with our clients and let them know why we pulled those products for them and how to use them. We also write the products down on our Guest Recipe form and send it home with the client.

• Where do you feel is the most efficient location for a retail section in a spa? We have our retail display set up at our front entrance way/waiting area. Our retail display is beautiful, eye catching, and not overwhelmed with products. We want our clients to see our display upon arriving and when exiting our spa!

MARKETING & PUBLICITY • What have you found is most effective when it comes to marketing techniques and strategy? Getting out in the community and going to networking groups has been very successful for me! Building relationships among community members and business leaders is something that I take very seriously.

• What can you tell us about your particular marketing strategies? My team and I are also always on Facebook Live doing educational videos and keeping everyone informed of what’s up and coming! We focus on the appearance of the spa from its aroma and the music that we play, to the heated neck wraps that we offer our clients as they are waiting, and to our beverage bar where we always have fruit-infused water, coffee or hot tea.

It all boils down to what our customers, see, hear, smell, touch and taste!

EXCEPTIONAL CLIENT CARE • How do you keep clients loyal and consistent? Building the relationships that we have with our clients is what keeps them loyal to us. We care about them, their families and we make sure that we always give them the red carpet treatment! Our monthly promotions also ensure that our clients can try new treatments at a lower cost. This is a great incentive! We are also in the process of figuring out a VIP system with our most loyal clients.

TIPS FOR SPA LEADERS What are the most important lessons have you learned from failures or challenges that you can share with others in your career path? I have learned to embrace each and every challenge that has come my way. If you always expect the unexpected, then you will not let difficult situations suppress you. Learn to find strength within and always have strong faith to help you keep going. I don’t believe in failure, because failure only happens when you give up and I refuse to ever give up! If you could tell your younger self one piece of advice on the spa industry, what would it be? The education never stops. Get as many certifications as you can so that you can always be up to date on all of the latest trends. START SOONER!

LNEonline.com

February2018

LNEonline.com

Expert

Esthetics

Educator Reap the rewards and overcome the hurdles of being an esthetics educator By Natalie Iovino-SChoenfeld You might be the greatest esthetician in the world, but without a background in education or experience teaching, being an esthetics educator can be a difficult position. Any teacher, from kindergarten through higher education, will tell you that classroom management is one of the keys to a successful class, and also one of the more difficult aspects of their job. Each new class presents itself with its own set of challenges; and often in an industry like ours, there are rolling admission options, which means new students multiple times a month and students of various ages. So how does one manage a classroom? How do you accommodate those who are visual learners, auditory learners, or tactile learners, all in the same class? How do you gain the attention and respect of a room full of adults?

LNEonline.com

February2018

business Expert Esthetics Educator

Professionally Personal First and foremost is how you present yourself to the class. Remember that teaching is like selling, and if you are a good esthetician, you should have a decent amount of experience with the latter. In this situation, you are “selling” the information they will need to graduate and go on to become successful skin care professionals themselves. You should always put on a positive attitude, even if you’re having a bad day, since your outlook will set the tone for the entire room. Make “professionally personal” connections with your students. When you have new students join your class, take some time at the beginning of the day to chat with them and give them an opportunity to share something about themselves with the others. Make this relevant to the course by explaining to them how important it is to be able to speak with or in front of others and form professional relationships. After all, when they join the field they will have to build a client base and sell products. This cannot be done 54

February2018

LNEonline.com

without talking and being comfortable doing so with strangers. Let your students know that you are open to their ideas and questions. Tell them that your classroom welcomes conversations at appropriate times, and this encourages involvement. If they feel they are welcome to have an open discussion about a topic, suddenly they won't feel so “put on the spot” when they have a question or don't completely grasp the material. Instructors should keep themselves professional but approachable, and bring that same structure into the classroom.

Structure Your Class Time Any adult can study to become an esthetician, which means you will have a range of student ages from recent high school graduates, to those making a career change, to retired individuals looking to do something new and interesting. Because of this, you are faced with students who have a traditional style of learning, like reading out of a

textbook and taking notes, and those who have a more modern style, like watching videos or Google searching the information. None of it is wrong, and because of this you will have to find a way to incorporate a wide spectrum of learning modalities. A good idea is to break your classroom time into segments. Have a portion where you take turns reading aloud from the book, each student taking a paragraph. At the end of each paragraph or section, tell them key points to highlight, and give them any tricks you might have to remember the information, or tell them an industry story that is applicable to the topic. Draw a diagram to make comprehension easier, especially with the more difficult concepts, like when learning polarity with galvanic current. Another portion should be something hands on. For example, when studying electricity, have the students make homopolar motors to help visualize electric current; for chemistry, make solutions and suspensions; and when learning about the treatment room, have them draw out floor plans for their ideal work space, then have them label what equipment they would have and why. At some point during the class, play a short video relating to that day’s topic. By incorporating these different aspects in each class, you can ensure that almost all of your students’ learning needs are met and that you have made it easier for them to retain information.

Be Strict, But Fair Be mindful of the fact that there will be a student or two in your class who simply does not want to be there. Attempt to engage them in the material, but do not base your entire class around rallying those few individuals. If they are disruptive or violate any codes of conduct for your school, remove them from your environment without making a scene. Should these moments arise, they will convey the importance of what you are teaching to the others in the class and will set the standard for conduct in your room. Be strict, but fair. Students should know that if they be-

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #282 on reader service card

business Expert Esthetics Educator treatments and make them think about why they chose them. Ask how they would sell those products to a client and be ready to give them key wording they can easily repeat and build upon. Set aside some time with your students to work on their resumes or offer to review them if they email it to you. Bear in mind that some have never written resumes before, and some have absolutely no relevant work experience in the industry. Either way, have them write a resume, then go through it and make any corrections needed. Try to connect any work experience they do have to the industry, like customer service, management, or public speaking.

have inappropriately or violate a school rule, they will be removed for the duration of class and that this outcome is solely on them. Make it known for each new group that you aren’t being the “mean teacher,” but that there will be consequences for certain actions. In this way, you are preparing them for the real world, because what employer would allow inappropriate conduct or blatant disregard for business regulations? Not many.

Be A Mentor Remember that esthetics school shouldn't just be centered on learning enough to pass a test. It should prepare the students for their careers in every way possible. Don't miss an opportunity to turn every portion of your day with them into a learning experience that they can apply to a real life situation later. Encourage them to speak in front of the class, and pull them out of their comfort zones. Talk to them about the products they're using in

The Best Will Lead The Rest! Being an esthetics instructor also means mentoring new estheticians into becoming accomplished members of the industry. Find a way to connect with your class and be someone they can rely on for information and direction. Making yourself an integral part of their

early and continued experience in the industry will come with an added level of respect and attentiveness from your students. Properly managing the classroom will ensure that everyone has an equal opportunity to learn the material without feeling left behind. Help them begin their careers with a straight path to success!

Natalie Iovino-Schoenfeld, a licensed esthetician and esthetics educator at the New York Institute of Beauty, believes that fostering positive client relationships is paramount to a thriving business. With more than a decade of management experience in the industry, she strives for exemplary customer service and enjoys guiding students and employees to success. She lives in Long Island, N.Y. Follow her on Instagram to view her portfolio work, business observations and the latest trends in the industry @Natalie_LE_MUA.

PERMANENT MAKEUP PROFESSIONAL BECOME A

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #167 on reader service card

Join the countless successful Beau graduates in an exciting, rewarding, lucrative career!

TRAIN at our WORLD RENOWNED PERMANENT MAKEUP INSTITUTE AAM & SPCP Certified Instructors

• • • •

FUNDAMENTALS & ADVANCED CLASSES Microblading Hairstroke Brows Eyeliner/Lash Enhancements Gloss & Glo Lips

• • • •

3-D Areola & Scar Camouflage Scalp Micropigmentation Microneedling Customized Classes

HOME OF FACE INKS PIGMENTS: The fastest growing pigment line in the U.S. • Streamlined for simplicity • Excellent color retention

856-727-1411 • beauinstitute.com Located in Mount Laurel, New Jersey

February2018

LNEonline.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #289 on reader service card

LNEonline.com

February2018

LNEonline.com

Facial AdD Ons

Are you missing out on revenue from facial add ons?

By Pam Stellema

Fact: Most spas are missing out on profitable sales every single day. Depending on the size of your spa business, you could be missing out on anywhere from $20k to $100K per year from add-on sales that never happen: the serum with the facial, the brow tint with the lash tint, or the gel upgrade with the pedicure. Simple add-on sales that are being ignored.

So why does this happen? There are five major reasons why spas miss out on this substantial additional revenue: 1. Therapists or receptionists miss their opportunity to offer something extra during the booking process. 2. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not enough time to provide something extra during the service. 3. There is no formal expectation by management that spa therapists will offer an add-on or up-sell to their clients, and therefore, no motivation to do so. 4. Formal training is not provided on how to up-sell naturally. 5. Spa therapists are not confident or comfortable with the process of recommending something extra to their clients. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s take a closer look at these five fail points and discover how they can be handled to produce better results.

LNEonline.com

February2018

business Facial Add Ons

Missed Opportunities The ideal time to offer clients an additional service is, without a doubt, during the booking process. Not only is the existing client’s service history at your fingertips to quickly review for possible add-ons she may have previously had, but if an additional service is added to the booking at this point, it will also eliminate the need to squeeze something extra into the allocated appointment time on the day of. For new clients, or when no service history is available, a relevant extra services list kept at the reception can be referred to quickly for suitable up-sells. This list can easily be generated through brainstorming with your team members.

Lack of Time Lack of available time can be a real problem if the additional service takes extra time and can cause the therapist to run late for her next client. When this happens, the best upsell is one that will replace an existing component of the treatment, or be very quick to deliver. A few strategies are: • Serums applied during the facial to enhance results • Up-graded masks that will take the place of regular masks • Gel polish instead of regular polish • Brow tints while lash tints develop • Hand peel while the face peel activates Depending on the services your spa offers, there are various upsells that can be included when time is tight. Always look for opportunities to upsell to a more premium service that requires no additional time.

Goal Setting Not setting individual sales goals for team members means no accountability is in place, and this results in a lack of motivation to offer additional services or upsells. Make time at the beginning of each day to spend a few minutes with your team members to review their cli-

February2018

LNEonline.com

ents for the day and discuss beneficial upsells for each. Set a daily goal for each therapist based on the number of clients she has booked in her column and follow up at the end of each day to see if she has met her goals. If she has, congratulate her on her performance, and if not, discuss strategies she could have used to reach her goals. The important points here are to set goals, create accountability, review performance, and provide encouragement and support.

The best and most successful training methods are those that are inclusive and fun for the trainee. Training that includes ideas and input from your team members will always have the best outcome. To facilitate this, ask all team members to contribute suggestions and solutions to every training topic instead of sitting back and turning off while the team leader does all the talking. Make training a team effort and you will be rewarded with a higher level of participation.

Team Training

Changing the Employee Mindset

Your team members need to know not only what is expected of them but also how to achieve it. Keep in mind that training on any topic is not a “do-itonce-and-hope-it-sticks” activity. It needs to be provided regularly and reinforced constantly to keep it in front of mind.

Selling often feels uncomfortable for therapists and they see the whole process as outside of their real job of providing services and pampering clients. Basically, therapists want to nurture their clients and don’t see selling as part of that process.

business Facial Add Ons

The way to overcome this is to change their mindset from selling being just about grabbing some extra money from their clients, to selling as a way to benefit their clients and help them achieve a better, faster outcome. Good selling in a spa environment is always about strengthening the relationship with the client. It should result in a better solution for their problem. Bad selling happens when a client is pushed to purchase something that wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t benefit her and therefore damages the relationship. Make certain your team members understand that you only want them to do what will strengthen their relationship with their clients and not the reverse. This will help your team members feel more positive about suggesting extra services or items to their clients, and they will be less resistant to the idea of making beneficial recommendations. When a client achieves a better, faster solution to their problem they will be grateful.

The Best Time to Suggest and Up-sell The last thing you want your therapists to do is chat all the way through a relaxation-based service and leave the client feeling annoyed and deprived of their special relaxation time. This means you need to be strategic about choosing the best time to introduce the idea of a little something extra.

So, when should it be done? The ideal time, in most cases, is either during or just after the consultation phase of the treatment, but before the main body of the treatment begins. The therapist should have completed her examination of the treatment area and asked the client questions about her problems and expectations. If your therapists are not providing pre-

Client Awareness

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #185 on reader service card

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always a good business strategy to ensure your clients are aware of the additional services you have available for them, as this awareness will help when it comes to suggesting something they may not have tried previously. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fall into the trap of assuming your clients are fully aware of all your spa has to offer, as few actually are. One way to create additional awareness is to add your service extras to your Service Menu, grouped with the services they complement. Upgrades such as serums, masks or LED therapy can all be grouped within the Facial and Skin Treatment categories so that clients can easily see what else is appropriate and available to them. Apply this concept to all your extra options where room permits.

LNEonline.com

February2018

business Facial Add Ons

treatment consultations, they are depriving themselves of a great deal of important information that will help them to not only deliver a much better service, but also make useful recommendations for extras.

How to Upsell in the Treatment Room Once the consultation is complete, make yourself easily seen by the client. If she is already on the treatment bed, then come around to the side and bring yourself down to her level by sitting on a stool. Place yourself in a position where the clients can see and interact freely with you to reduce any feeling of intimidation. As you make your suggestions, phrase them in a way that highlights the benefits they will receive relative to the problem they are trying to solve. If your suggestions don’t relate to fixing problems the client believes are important, she simply won’t be interested and a quick ‘no thanks’ will follow.

Here’s an example: The client has expressed issues around her recurring acne breakouts. She is booked in for a deep cleansing treatment but nothing else.

Brighten & Rejuvenate

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #248 on reader service card

with Plant Meristematic Cells Extract

After consultation, the therapist determines that a suitable serum applied under an infusion mask will reliably provide much better results for the client. The conversation would go along the lines of, “Sara, it’s great that you’ve booked in for the Deep Cleanse Treatment today. That will definitely get you started on your journey to clearer skin. I’d also like to suggest we apply a healing serum and infusion mask to give you even better results from your treatment. Are you okay with that? The extra serum and mask will be $20 but the results will be worth it.” Note: I always recommend you provide your clients with full disclosure on the additional cost to avoid any problems when it comes time to pay for their service. Surprises at the register are never a good idea! If you have a Service Agreement document in place, be sure to add the relevant details outlining additional costs for extra services here as well. If you follow these guidelines, it won’t be long before you see a real improvement in your revenue. If you’re offering performance bonuses, your team will also see worthwhile benefits. This means that your spa, your therapists and your clients will all benefit from this sales strategy.

Pam Stellema is the principal coach and founder of SalonSavy, where she provides specialized industry-

Made in USA

based coaching to clients through telephone conversations. Stellema has previously owned and operated

Dr. Jeff Skin Care Toll-Free: 1-888-316-3683

February2018

Email: info@dr-jeff.com Web: www.dr-jeff.com

LNEonline.com

several highly successful salons, and specializes in maximizing salon productivity and profits. For more information, visit salonsavy.com.au.

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #217 on reader service card

Spring Cleaning!

Spring clean skin from head to toe with these Sweet Sugar Scrubs and Face Masks from Eminence Organic Skin Care… Now in their brand NEW packaging! Infuse skin with the hydrating benefits of the most delicious fruits. These products are made with anti-oxidant-rich ingredients such a coconut and blueberry, the ultimate fruity treat! New packaging, same amazing benefits!

888.747.6342 eminenceorganics.com

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

BusinessNews

Qosmedix in LA

Visit LNEonline.com for more news 64

February2018

Qosmedix will be exhibiting at Luxe Pack Los Angeles February 7-8, 2018 at The Barker Hangar in Santa Monica, California. Sari Sternschein, Vice President of Marketing for Qosmedix stated, “We are thrilled to be expanding our presence with Luxe Pack by exhibiting at their Los Angeles premiere. Our team, including our new West Coast Account Manager, Lacey McConnell is looking forward to connecting with attendees. We will have a variety of new products on display including updated styles of LED Cosmetic Mirrors, 3D Silicone Applicators, Silicone Facial Cleansing Pads and Gel Eye Masks made from biodegradable TPU material."

631.242.3270 qosmedix.com

Investing In The Future Biofreeze®, Massage Envy® and Bon Vital'® are pleased to announce the winners of the 2017 Successful Hands Grant Program™. The program, a collaborative effort between three leading brands in the industry, supports professional massage therapy students by awarding eight $1,000 educational grants. In addition, each winner’s school receives a $1,000 grant package. Applicants were asked to complete a 200-word essay on “What being a successful massage therapist means to me.” The submission process brought in over 600 applications before it closed on October 15, 2017.

SuccessfulHandsGrants.com

Mastery in Europe! Bio-Therapeutic Platinum Educator Karli Stewart and the Dermatuer Benelux team brought their talents to Europe where they worked to master their bt-nano and Bio-Ultimate Platinum microcurrent technique. Bio-Therapeutic recently spent extensive time with the Dermatuer Benelux team training on the bt-GEAR, bt-accent and bt-PRO lines of technology in preparation for their 2018 launch.

800.976.2544 bio-therapeutic.com

LNEonline.com

Non-Invasive TOOLS GUIDE

How and when to use the latest technology in skin tightening, brightening and healing.

LNEonline.com

February2018

LNEonline.com

Guide

to Facial Devices How to select the best facial devices for your practice By Eva Sztupka-Kerschbaumer

For any professional esthetician, one of the most confusing and overwhelming things that we face is how to properly incorporate machines into our individual protocols. Not only are there a seemingly infinite number of different types of machines out there, but there are also a multitude of manufacturers making an equally large number of eerily similar machines. You are a trained and licensed esthetician. You studied hard to get where you are. You take pride in your work and most important of all, you care about your clients. You want to give them great results and you want them to be happy with the treatments you provide and be healthier because of them. So letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dive in and figure out how esthetic machines can help you become a star esthetician â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you know, the professional that all the best clients in town talk about and line up to book an appointment with!

LNEonline.com

February2018

Non-Invasive Tools Guide

Many estheticians are firmly in the antimachine camp. Just give them a steamer, a magnifying lamp and perhaps a high frequency device. Introducing new machines can be a bit intimidating at first, but it won’t take very long to get comfortable in not just using it correctly but also in encouraging clients to allow you to use it on them. Why? Because the results, when combined with traditional methods and products, are better than they were without the machine.

Microdermabrasion Microdermabrasion is one of those cosmetic procedures that most clients have heard of, but don’t really know exactly what it is. It is a procedure that exfoliates and removes the superficial layer of dry, dead skin cells using a stream of finely powdered abrasive particles or a diamond tip. The best systems have adjustable suction to vacuum loose skin 68

February2018

LNEonline.com

cells from the face. Pricing for these machines can range from a couple of hundred dollars for a cheap diamondtip machine, to machines costing tens of thousands of dollars. I find the old adage, “you get what you pay for” to be true and I find that my crystal machines consistently deliver the best results and are virtually indestructible. What really sets a great esthetician apart from the masses is the ability to properly and precisely exfoliate a client's skin. Sounds easy, doesn't it? But skin is a tricky thing. Too much exfoliation will tear the skin away and result in bleeding, scars, or worse. Not enough exfoliation will leave your client with unsatisfactory results and wondering what they paid you for. I am always trying to find the best way to gently remove as much skin from my clients as possible without them leaping off my table. Proper, precise and thorough

exfoliation is also one of the only things that a professional esthetician can still deliver, at a more reasonable price, than a physician.

Light Therapy The esthetics world is aglow in a virtual disco of LED (light emitting diodes) devices. First, you should know that light therapy really can help your clients achieve better looking, healthier skin. But the devil, as always, is in the details. With the prices of LED devices all over the place, you need to do your homework and study the details of whatever machine you’re thinking of buying. The basic premise of LED skin therapy is that different colors trigger different reactions beneath the epidermis, and penetrate the skin at varying depths. All of these color wavelengths require a certain amount of power in order to be effective. The range in prices is as

Non-Invasive Tools Guide

varied as the number of manufacturers. You should charge an additional $50 to $90 for an LED facial treatment.

Microcurrent Microcurrent as an esthetic treatment has been around for quite a long time. Microcurrent stimulates, lifts, pulls and re-educates muscles. It mimics our own natural bio-electrical field and sends tiny electrical currents to the over 30 muscles in the face. Research has shown that microcurrent increases levels of adenosine triphosphate (ATP). ATP is the energy that fuels all biochemical functions in the body and boosts protein synthesis, necessary for tissue repair. Using galvanic DC microcurrent on the positive polarity is referred to as iontophoresis. During an iontophoresis treatment, a positively charged (acid pH) serum, gel or complex is first applied to the skin. The skin therapist then places the passive or inactive (negative) electrode under the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shoulder or into their hand. The positively charged current is then delivered via the active ingredients deep into the skin via positively-charged ions or molecules. This simple electro-repulsion is ideal for treating aging skin and hyperpigmentation, as it can deliver active ingredients deep into the stratum germinativum where they can impact cells. Microcurrent devices range in price, but the key to effectiveness is power. It is also very important to always use a water-based conducting gel (such as a hyaluronic acid solution) during operation and to stay away from the eyelids. Prepare your clients to expect a slight tingling sensation during the treatment.

ging of facial tissues. Utilizing similar technology, ultrasound directs focused ultrasonic sound waves deep into the skin's layers in order to stimulate collagen production and help reduce wrinkles and fine lines and restore youthful texture and tone. Both technologies are commonly used to treat the forehead, under the eyes, cheeks, mid-face, jaw line, and neck. By applying RF/ultrasound energy to the skin, which can conduct current and therefore act as part of the electrical circuit, any resistance encountered by the energy flow will cause heat to be produced at the site of maximum resistance. Via this treatment, radio/ultrasonic waves penetrate the patientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outer skin layers, delivering heat energy deeper into the dermal layers. This heat is supposed to help stimulate collagen production

The overall result should be tighter, brighter skin. and that, in turn, triggers tissue contraction. The overall result should be tighter, brighter skin and a significant reduction in sags and wrinkles. Due to radiation of high-energy radio frequency/ultrasound, the process requires extreme care in its execution, for improper application may result in

Radiofrequency and Ultrasound Radiofrequency (RF) energy treatment is the modern technology used for nonsurgical tightening of the early signs of loose or sagging skin. Pure RF energy alone is primarily used to treat skin laxity by facial tightening and is best suited for patients with mild to moderate sagLNEonline.com

February2018

Non-Invasive Tools Guide

dents on the skin surface due to uneven healing responses on the skin. Many effects including fat necrosis and atrophic scarring have also been reported. These issues are more related to high-power machines usually found in medical offices and are not typical when using small handheld devices. Some ultrasonic devices (with versions made by multiple manufacturers with a wide array of power and usefulness) are sometimes called skin scrubbers. They use ultrasonic waves to both exfoliate the skin and help the skin absorb products. Oscillating between 24,000 and 30,000 vibrations per second, these devices exfoliate the upper layer of the skin, which allows for greater cellular turnover and greater product penetration. Used properly, the treatment feels somewhat like a sonic toothbrush against your skin and it can

February2018

LNEonline.com

be a very effective tool, as is stimulates with little to no negative side effects. As before, power is key so search for a device that actually plugs into a wall.

the results. And constantly practice using your hands to deliver a facial or other esthetic treatment that can be compared to no other.

A World of Possibilities The machines and devices now available open up a whole new realm of possibilities for the professional esthetician to deliver advanced treatments to their clients. With any of these machines, you should expect to charge your clients an additional $50 to $400 per treatment, depending on your location and experience. But at the end of the day, the best machines you could ever hope to use as an esthetician are your hands and your head. Train yourself to know what makes a person's body, skin and face work. Constantly educate yourself on not just what products work, but also on the specific ingredients that deliver

Eva Sztupka-Kerschbaumer opened ESSpa Kozmetika in Pittsburgh, Penn., in 2002. A master esthetician, she is a founding member of the Green Spa Network and was humbled to be named one of the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Top 3 Estheticians in the United Statesâ&#x20AC;? in 2016. When she is not traveling as the Director of Training for Maximum Active Dermaceuticals, Sztupka-Kerschbaumer can be found at one of her spas delivering facials to her clients. In her free time, she enjoys practicing yoga and playing games with her family.

Your Bikini Line is Our Care!â&#x201E;¢ For Ingrown Hairs, Razor Bumps, and Inflammation

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #330 on reader service card

1 (800) 961-0041

LNEonline.com

February2018

Radio Frequency Facts 72

February2018

LNEonline.com

Understand the science behind radio frequency treatments for skin tightening By Erin Lucie

With wrinkle reduction and skin tightening being some of the main concerns for an esthetician, radio frequency is a must have device. Radio frequency (RF) uses sound waves to create a change. Even though we cannot hear or see RF, the waves are very powerful and stimulate subdermal collagen production. Radio waves and microwave frequency are right next to each other on the electromagnetic spectrum, and we know that both radio and microwaves are very safe. Imagine a microwave cooking a meal, which part gets the hottest? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the very center. This is what happens with RF. We send the RF directly to the center of the skin or targeted tissue to create a change in that area.

LNEonline.com

February2018

Non-Invasive Tools Guide

at two to four week intervals. After the client’s first six treatments, you can do maintenance and touchups on specific areas of more concern. The treatment should be priced around $150-$300 per area of treatment. This allows you as a clinician to build packages for your clients. I like to add in a series of chemical peels and Intense Pulse Light (IPL) to target the general tone and texture of the skin for an overall healthy appearance.

Who is a candidate for RF?

How Does It Work? For skin tightening, imagine a slinky that is stretched out, and the radio waves heat up and shrink that slinky back to its original shape, creating a tighter and firmer complexion. Another example I give my aging patients is to imagine a table and a tablecloth. As we age, the table (our bones), muscles and fat pads begin to shrink and our tablecloth (our skin) gets larger as it loses its integrity from the breakdown of collagen and elastin. To correct the signs of aging in a holistic way, we must target both the table and the cloth simultaneously. The table can be built back up with a variety of dermal fillers by a certified injector, but the cloth or skin itself will still be loose. You do not want the patient ‘over-filled’ to compensate for the skin laxity. This is where RF comes in. Some of my clients like to joke and say they are getting ‘shrink wrapped,’ but what we are doing is tissue remodeling by heating the subdermal layer to increase the production of collagen

February2018

LNEonline.com

and elastin. RF is the deepest form of skin tightening available. Therefore, it is considered an alternative to a facelift. Let’s say a patient wants a facelift; can we still offer RF before or after their procedure? Absolutely! With a facelift, the surgeon is removing skin and pulling it tighter. However, it is going to have the same old broken down collagen and elastin it had before making the skin appear thin and stretched. By performing RF prior to surgery, you are making the skin thicker and healthier to have a more aesthetically pleasing outcome. Doing RF after surgery maintains the results of the facelift.

When Will I See Results? You can see a difference almost immediately, but research and practice show that true change typically requires a series of eight to 12 treatment sessions, lasting 30-45 minutes each. To be clear, this is not a one-time treatment; it is a commitment of treatments

There are three wonderful traits of RF. One is that it can be used on any Fitzpatrick skin type because radio waves are blind and do not target color or pigment in the skin. The second trait is that there is no downtime. Mild erythema is expected, but there should be no peeling, bruising, bleeding, or blistering. Clients will not need to take off work or restrict their daily activities. The third is that there are many types and styles of devices that can be used almost anywhere on the body. Do your research and determine which machine will work within your practice. For a spa that offers mostly bikini waxes or is related to a women’s clinic, they might invest in an RF device with a hand-piece that targets vaginal rejuvenation. A strictly facial esthetics practice will want to make sure their hand-piece can target small areas, such as around the eyes, brow line, jowls and neck. If the spa does more body treatments, having a larger RF machine that can do cellulite treatments, body contouring and skin tightening is more ideal. While RF is made for skin tightening, it requires specific knowledge of what your target market is before you purchase your machine.

Radio Frequency For The Body For radio frequency to accomplish body contouring with cellulite reduction, the device must have a vacuum compo-

Non-Invasive Tools Guide

nent that suctions the skin up while the RF is being released. This stretches and smoothes out the fascia. Some machines allow the RF heat to be hot enough to essentially dissolve the fat or lipids inside the fat cell, all the while building the collagen and elastin. This type of treatment leaves the fat cell intact with no cellular damage, but will create an even and smooth texture to the skin. It’s great for areas such as the knees and thighs, upper and lower abs, arms and even jaw line contouring if you have a small enough hand-piece. How does RF body contouring compare to cryolipolysis? They are entirely different modalities. Cryolipolysis uses cold technology to freeze the fat cell and burst it. Therefore, it is FDA approved for permanent fat reduction since the fat cell is damaged. Unfortunately, cryolipolysis dose not create enough inflammation in the skin to induce skin tightening or cellulite reduction. Can the two treatments be used together? Absolutely! There are treatment protocols in which you heat the fat cell up with RF immediately prior to cryolipolysis, perform the cold cycle, then come back with the RF heat after treatment to tighten the skin and smooth any cellulite. It is a wonderful combination if you have both devices available!

cur and leave a small blister. The client will feel it and will see the tiny red spot after treatment and they will need posttreatment care, similar to care given with any laser or chemical peel.

Contraindications Who is not a candidate for an RF treatment? Anyone who has metal in the treatment area; for example, someone with dental implants or braces while treating upper lip and around the mouth. Having a copper or silver intrauterine device is a contraindication when treating the abdominal area. If the client has a pacemaker and wants any area of the body treated, it is not worth the risk. Do not treat over or around cancerous or even benign tumors of the skin and subcutaneous fat, including moles, since the RF improves blood flow and accelerates cell division. It could potentially affect tissues surrounding a tumor, causing them to grow. And lastly, pregnancy and breastfeeding are always contraindications. There are many different devices and each have the same basic technology; but it comes down to how and where you will be using it and if it has consumable costs. Meaning, can you purchase the machine and perform unlimited treatments, or do you have to purchase ‘cards’ or items that limit

the number of treatments you do, requiring you to order more from the manufacture? This information will all go into your price per treatment and return on investment. Overall, RF is a modality that will make clients very happy with their results if they commit to the series of eight to12. Remember that it is a process, a continuous journey that we take with each client. There is no one size fits all modality; it is important to alternate and mix your modalities together to achieve optimal skin health and appearance.

Erin Lucie is a family nurse practitioner and licensed cosmetologist with over 15 years of experience in the aesthetic industry. Erin started her career in a medical spa in Stillwater, OK where she obtained a Bachelor of Arts from Oklahoma State University. She is the owner of Mod Skin Nutrition, a private skincare clinic with a modern twist on proven aesthetic procedures. She has presented at the International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Long Beach, CA, Arlington, TX and Miami, FL, The International Beauty Show in Las Vegas and Face and Body Conference and Expo in Chicago.

No Pain, All Gain One of the main questions clients ask is, “does it hurt?” You can feel the heat on your skin, but it is not painful. That heat means that change is occurring, which is good and what we want. In fact, this is one of the few treatments in which we do not provide any numbing anesthetic so we know exactly how much heat to apply for change to happen. In this case, more is better, as tolerated. As far as side effects or complications, the main thing to watch for during treatment is that you must have good contact with the skin. If the entire hand-piece is not touching the skin, a tiny little shock-like sensation will ocLNEonline.com

February2018

LED

Treatment Combinations 76

February2018

LNEonline.com

Incorporate these unique LED treatment combinations for a customized client experience

By Amy Gardner

If you’ve ever attended a class on product formulations and ingredients, you know that there are many different pathways through which specific ingredients work. To some extent, LED light therapy is the same. Much like product ingredients, various wavelengths of light interact with cellular processes to stimulate a physiological response. Just as it’s important to know which ingredients are most appropriately used on a particular skin condition, it’s also useful to have some fundamental knowledge as to how various wavelengths work, and the benefits with which they are associated.

LNEonline.com

February2018

Non-Invasive Tools Guide

Wavelength Matters Wavelength refers to the distance between each peak or crest of a wave of light, heat, or other energy, and the next corresponding peak or crest. Generally speaking, the shorter the wavelength, the higher the energy. Although longer wavelengths have lower energy, up to a point, they have the ability to penetrate more deeply into skin and body tissue. Daylight, as you may recall from a long ago science class, is a combination of electromagnetic energy that is both seen and unseen. In order to view the colors of daylight or white light individually, they must be separated through something that creates a bend, such as a prism or droplet of water. This is how we see rainbows. Wavelengths are measured in what we call nanometers. A nanometer (nm) is equal to one billionth of a meter. In skin care, we’re mostly concerned with the 400 nanometer range seen as blue, the 600 to 700 nanometer range seen as amber and red, and the 800 to mid 900 nanometer range that we cannot see. Light in this range falls into the infrared category and is beyond the visible spectrum.

Power Trip Of primary concern is getting enough light energy to what are known as “target chromophores.” A chromophore is essentially a molecule that has the ability to absorb light. In order for there to be any physiological response to light treatment, the cell must absorb an adequate amount of energy. In theory, a single photon (or packet of light energy) can activate a cell, but in practice it requires multiple photon absorption to raise the action potential of a cell. This is not to say the more powerful the device, the more effective the treatment. In fact, too much light energy density can actually diminish effects. This is referred to as a biphasic dose response. According to experts 78

February2018

LNEonline.com

in the field of low-level light therapy, the only way to accurately determine whether or not a device is delivering a sufficient amount of energy is to observe consistently positive results over an extended period of time. It’s also important to note that different wavelengths are preferentially absorbed by different chromophores in the body. For example, blue is absorbed by certain light absorbing molecules in the body, and red by others.

Doing Your Level Best To understand why certain wavelengths or colors are used to treat specific conditions, let’s revisit a couple of points. Shorter wavelengths have more energy, and more energy generally means less penetration. Wavelengths in the blue range (shorter wavelengths) only penetrate tissue to the level of the epidermis, approximately 1 mm in depth. Blue is used to treat acne because the depth of penetration for this range al-

lows us to hit p. acnes bacteria where it lives. As it happens, blue wavelengths are also absorbed by specific chromophores known as coproporphyrin III, and protoporphyrin IV, present in p. acnes bacteria. Absorption by these chromophores triggers a photobiochemical reaction essentially causing the bacteria to self-destruct. Amber and red, being longer wavelengths with lower energy and deeper penetration, are mostly absorbed at the level of the dermis, approximately 1.5 – 2.3 mm in depth. For this reason, amber and red are often used to stimulate mitochondrial activity within the fibroblasts, thereby encouraging the production of proteins like collagen and elastin necessary for plumping and firming the skin. Longer still, near infrared wavelengths penetrate even more deeply to approximately 4mm and deeper, allowing them access to the level of subcutaneous and muscle tissue where they promote increased blood circula-

Non-Invasive Tools Guide

tion and reduce pain and inflammation. They are known to diminish swelling and bruising and promote wound healing. Wavelengths in this range are often combined with red and used post-procedures such as microneedling, injectables, laser, and surgery. The primary chromophore for absorption of red and infrared wavelengths is known as cytochrome c oxidase, an enzyme that is part of the electron transport chain where cellular respiration takes place.

Casting a Wider Net Since LED or low-level light can be absorbed not only by fibroblasts, but also by many different cell types in the body including immune cells, the possibilities for light mediated effects that help boost the body’s natural ability to protect and repair are widespread. Although it is generally agreed upon that there are certain ranges that have the most therapeutic value, studies demonstrate positive effects as a result of using different wavelengths within these ranges of red and infrared. According to a study conducted by Harvard Medical School’s Wellman Center for Photomedicine, “Wavelengths in the 600 – 700 nm range are used for treating superficial tissue, and wavelengths between 780 – 950 are chosen for deeper-seated tissues due to longer optical penetration distances through tissue. Wavelengths between 700 – 770 nm are not considered to have much activity. Some devices combine a red wavelength with a NIR wavelength on the basis that the combination of two wavelengths can have additive effects, and can also allow the device to be more broadly utilized.” One may conclude from this that if you cast a wider net by utilizing multiple wavelengths within the clinically proven ranges, you are far more likely to affect positive change. Devices that combine wavelengths delivered simultaneously are not common, but they do exist. LNEonline.com

February2018

Non-Invasive Tools Guide

Putting It All Together Without a doubt, the more sophisticated our options become, the greater the necessity to understand how they work. This is critical not only to ensure you use your resources effectively, but also to provide insight into how to integrate treatments for the best possible results. Let’s consider some possibilities for integrating LED with other treatments. Below are some examples of protocols that should of course be customized depending upon skin type and condition. Many consumable product manufacturers have specific LED treatment protocols, and it’s recommended that you check with them for detailed instructions.

LED & Acne: 1. Cleanse 2. Exfoliate & Steam - enzymes are a great option for eliminating keratolytic buildup 3. Consider an oxygen based treatment here – oxygen will help diminish bacteria 4. Apply serum – options may include anti-bacterial, antioxidant, and antiinflammatory ingredients 5. LED treatment – blue to destroy bacteria and red to reduce inflammation 6. Apply moisturizer and sun protection

LED & Healthier, More Radiant Skin: 1. Cleanse 2. Exfoliate – this may be done with enzymes, microdermabrasion, or some peel treatments. How soon after a peel can you use LED? This depends upon specific ingredients, strength and pH. LED treatment may generate some mild warmth in the skin. Consult with your peel manufacturer for timing recommendations. 3. Apply serum – options may include collagen boosters, cell stimulators, antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, and hydrators 80

February2018

LNEonline.com

4. LED treatment – amber, red & infrared are all beneficial to trigger desirable cellular responses 5. Masque – apply appropriate masque for skin type if desired (transparent masques may be used over serum prior to LED treatment – check with device manufacturer) 6. Perform massage and remove excess product with a warm towel 7. Apply additional serums as necessary, moisturizer and sun protection

LED & Massage Therapy (for pain and healing):

“Deconstructing” LED in this way is useful for determining which wavelengths to use for what purpose and with which products, but the way we think about light therapy also merits consideration. Because LED helps energize cells to behave in a more productive way, it can truly be thought of as a cellular support system transcending almost every skin type and age while helping each client reach their healthiest skin potential.

Amy Gardner is a Licensed Esthetician and has been

1. Client to arrive with clean skin 2. Possible add-ons – hot towels, body exfoliation, wraps, topical pain or body rejuvenation products 3. LED treatment – red & infrared to stimulate blood flow, soften and release tissue in areas of difficulty (i.e. trigger points or myofascial restrictions) and relieve pain & inflammation 4. Perform massage treatment 5. Remove any residual product

L i g h t S t i m ’s D i r e c t o r o f Education since 2009. Amy is a sought after speaker among skin care professionals, and has contributed to numerous industry publications throughout her career. Amy oversees the Education division at LightStim where she has applied her 25 years of experience in Corporate Education and Program Development, crafting the curriculum for LightStim Instructional platforms.

FAVORITE

THE 94%

NGER LO LO O

ALTHIER L HE O

97%

ING LASH OK

G LASHE S KIN

ASHES* EL

CULT * ES

RE VISIB MO L

ORIGINAL

91%

A LASH SERUM THAT ACTUALLY WORKS. GET LONGER, THICKER LOOKING LASHES IN 3 MONTHS. * Percentages based on a 12 week consumer perception study of GrandeLASH-MD. Results will vary. & local distributors grandecosmetics.com | grandewholesale.com | 1.877.835.3010 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #286 on reader service card

LNEonline.com

February2018

DALLAS, TX

May 6 & 7, 2018 Arlington Convention Center The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is the place to connect with thousands of skin care and spa professionals. Ignite your passion and find the tools you need to innovate, inspire and expand your esthetics practice. Retail Conference • Business Conference • Wellness Conference Mindfulness Conference • Makeup Trends Conference Marketing Conference • Social Media Conference Product Focused Training • Premier Exhibitor Showcase + Countless Networking Opportunities

SPONSORED BY

Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program or visit us at www.LNEonline.com USA: 305.443.2322 / FAX: 305.443.1664

February2018

LNEonline.com

Reishi

Mushrooms Discover the power of superherb Reishi Mushroom by Erik Lieux, MS

When most people imagine healing herbs and revitalizing foods, how many consider the mushroom kingdom? Allow me to introduce to you Ganoderma lucidum, commonly known as Reishi Mushroom. Reishi, or Ling Zhi in China, is considered among many herbal practitioners a treasure of Mother Nature, donning miraculous health benefits. This “supershroom” also goes by many auspicious aliases including: “Mushroom of Immortality,” “King of Herbs,” “Queen Healer Mushroom,” and “Bright Shining Skin.” Ranking next to ginseng for its broad spectrum of health benefits, reishi is a potent longevity herb in Asian cultures. Safely used for well over 2,000 years in Chinese Traditional Medicine, this amazing superherb promotes longevity, detoxifies organ systems, and is great for hair and skin while serving to balance stress hormones in the body.

LNEonline.com

February2018

Organic & Wellness Reishi Mushrooms

A Medicinal Wonder With a wide array of benefits, it’s no wonder why reishi has earned a place as one of the first medicinal mushrooms used in recorded history. In fact, for much of ancient time, procuring this mushroom was difficult due to its high regard and rarity, only being allotted for use by the ruling elites over many epochs. Today, we are fortunate and wise enough to invest in our own health to receive this potent legendary superherb. Reishi is a polypore mushroom native to the woodland regions of China; but it is known to grow as far north as Canada, and even grows in some tropical climates. As reishi is a nonparasitic fungus, this magnificent organism prefers growing on dead and decaying trees or stumps, feeding on small micronutrients within the wood. This is where a fine web of tiny mycelium incubate and grow, eventually giving rise to the fruiting body we know as a reishi. Reishi mushroom is also known as the “Great Protector” due to its adaptogenic properties. Adaptogens are naturally occurring substances that have a wonderful and miraculous capacity to adapt their underlying function to best fine tune and adjust our bodies’ own needs for optimal functioning while extending our capacity for coping with life. How Does It Work? So how does this little mushroom do what it does? Reishi’s active ingredients include high amounts of water-soluble polysaccharides and betaglucans, in addition to over 100 triterpenes, many of which have anti-carcinogenic and antiinflammatory effects. Reishi spores are known to have a very high triterpenoid content. Simply, reishi have an array of chemical compounds in them (too many to list) that work wonderfully within the human body system as a whole.

February2018

LNEonline.com

A considerable number of studies in Japan, China, USA, and the UK in the past 30 years have shown that the consumption of red reishi, particularly, has been linked to the treatment of a vast range of diseases, common ailments, and conditions. Here are some other benefits associated with taking reishi: Skin Radiance: With a name like “Bright Shining Skin,” it’s no wonder that Ganoderma lucidum helps with the appearance of skin. As an anti-inflammatory and blood purifier, reishi mushroom has been shown to reduce inflammation and puffiness of the skin while helping to alleviate wrinkles and reverse free radical damage. Compounds such as the Ling Zhi 8-protein and Ganodermic acid present in reishi are rich anti-inflammatory and anti-allergenic agents which promote blood circulation, skin elasticity, tone of skin and cell regeneration for a cleaner, more youthful appearance. Furthermore, various studies conducted on these mushrooms indicate that they possess the ability to cure various external skin issues, such as wounds, rashes, sunburns, and insect bites via reishi’s anti-histaminic, anti-inflamma-

tory, anti-microbial, and anti-allergenic properties. Healthy Hair: The ancient Chinese would use reishi to prevent balding and premature loss of hair. When mixed with other anti-hair loss herbs (i.e. Fo-Ti), this works as a restorative tonic for hair. Packed with antioxidants, it also eases stress levels and combats free radicals – the main culprits behind hair loss and balding. Reishi also helps to bring circulation of blood to the follicles, resulting in stronger and more stimulated hair shafts, which translates to richer, thicker hair growth. It is also said that reishi can help alleviate premature graying. Heart Health: Our hearts do a tireless job of pumping and vortexing our nutrient rich blood through the body on a continual and ever present basis. Reishi is known to enhance the cardiovascular system by improving blood circulation and flow to the bodily organs. In addition, it is also shown to reduce cholesterol levels. It may also be good for those with an anxious type of mood, as the energetic properties of reishi both calm and open the heart’s life force energy, or chi.

Organic & Wellness Reishi Mushrooms

As with any organic supplement or herb, take great care in choosing your source.

These statements have not been evaluated by the FDA. Information provided here is for educational and informational purposes only. It is in no way intended as medical advice, as a substitute for medical counseling, or as treatment cure for any disease or health condition. Consult your healthcare practitioner before use if pregnant or nursing.

Erik Lieux has a Masters Degree in Mental Health Counseling and an intense passion for health and wellness that allows him to continue to expand the

Shen Booster In Chinese Herbalism, Reishi is additionally known as the “Herb of Spiritual Potency.” While working to fortify the kidney and heart organ systems, reishi also is supportive of calming the nervous system while promoting a clear and peaceful state of mind. This calm presence is regarded as the energy of one’s spirit, or soul power; hence why reishi has been used by Taoist monks and spiritual seekers for centuries. Sharpened concentration skills and expanded awareness can be of great benefit towards seeking solutions to life’s challenges.

vision of a new paradigm in healthy living. This is most acutely reflected in his beverage line Shamanic Tonic, which infuses many of the superfoods and super herbs he is so passionate about. To learn more or to keep in touch, visit shamanictonic.com.

Regenerate is a rich, nourishing 24-hour emollient cream based on Cannabis Oil, containing Omegas-3, 6, 9, and Vitamin E. Perfectly suited for dry, mature skin and sensitive skin needing rejuvenation. Cannabis oil provides a layer of protection, helps remove dead cells from upper skin layers and assists in metabolism. Regenerate protects against free radicals and premature aging. Regular use gives the skin a very unique freshness, elasticity, and a balanced appearance.

Healing Soothing Rejuvenating

Sourcing your Reishi: As with any organic supplement or herb, take great care in choosing your source. Here are my top trusted recommendations for sourcing potent and quality organic reishi: Shamanic Tonic, Dragon Herbs, Sun Potion, and Lost Empire Herbs. Additionally, like most superherbs, consistency is key to experiencing the benefits associated with reishi. Take reishi daily to experience its long-term benefits. How to use As reishi is a woody, bitter tasting mushroom with a slightly sweet flavor, powdered extracts can be blended or mixed into tea, tonics, coffees, and various elixirs. The recommended average dose is to add 0.5 to 1.5 tsp. of powdered extract daily.

Exclusively for Professionals Call us 386 302 0216

Visit us www.biopeptixusa.com

LNEonline.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #271 on reader service card

Lung Health: Oxygen is a vital compound we can’t live without, and a healthy respiratory system is crucial for making sure our tissues and organs have an adequate amount of oxygen to function properly. When engaged in deep and unobstructed breathing, this relaxes the muscles, lowers blood pressure, and reduces stress. Traditionally, reishi mushroom has been used to stop coughs and wheezing and disperse phlegm. More recently, research has demonstrated that reishi can increase the alveoli’s ability to absorb oxygen, as well as reduce the cough reflex for people suffering from bronchitis.

February2018

ECOFRIENDLY THERAPIES, SKIN AND SPA PRODUCTS

Organic & WellnessNews

Hot on the Shelves!

Introducing a BRAND NEW product from Biopeptix: Regenerate Cream! This super rich cream in the anti-aging line includes cannabis oil which strengthens muscle tissue and skin elasticity, helps hormonal balance, rejuvenates skin cells, rich in omega 3, 6, 9, strengthens the protective layer of the epidermis, reduces and heals infections.

386.302.0216 biopeptixusa.com

Exfoliate, Please! This Exfoliating Scrub from Industry Cosmetics was designed to invigorate skin by cleansing pores deep down and gently exfoliating surface skin. Infused with certified organic tea tree oil and white and black willow bark extract with the calming effect of peppermint oil, this product is perfect for ingrown hairs, razor bumps, and inflammation.

800.961.0041 gomyskin.com

Uniquely Fruity Infused with certified organic botanicals, this powerful new Revitalizing Fruit Complex from Nature Pure Labs works to clarify, tighten, retexture and revive sun damaged skin. The unique fruit acid complex is concentrated with five botanical extracts: bilberry, sugar cane, sugar maple, orange and lemon to promote younger looking skin. The product's cell renewing alpha hydroxy acids work to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and other signs of aging.

1.866.640.7546 naturepure.com

Lemon Lightening Watch sunspots, hyperpigmentation, redness and inflammation fade after using Sorella Apothecary's Lemon Lightening Serum! Natural hydroquinone alternatives leave skin smooth, calm and bright skin. This hot product contains key ingredients such as hexylresorcinol, lemon peel, azelaic acid, hyaluronic acid, cucumber, and neem leaf extract.

Visit LNEonline.com for more news 88

February2018

800.253.0450 sorellaapothecary.com

LNEonline.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #169 on reader service card

SERVICE & RETAIL What is the best part about working with makeup services in the spa industry? I love being able to provide my clients with a completely customized experience! I use makeup as an adjunct to an overall skin care program that highlights health and comes from the inside first. The best part about working with makeup services in my spa is providing a pathway for a more meaningful connection with my clients.

How to Establish a Loyal Clientele with Colette Kuhnsman, Owner of S-Team Skin and Body in Danville, Calif.

When did you decide to implement makeup services to your spa menu? I always knew there had to be a better way to provide a service for my clients that is based on more than just what’s in the retail space. Implementing custom made cosmetics into my business is a natural fit, and it is a system that continues to grow as my client base expands! It’s a full-proof service that turns customers into clients. What approaches did you take to implement these services? It took a tremendous amount of research to find the right companies to partner with to be able to bring these specific services to my clients. I’ve spent the past two years meeting with physicians, attending conferences and visiting spas around the world to make it easy for my customers to have access to products that provide real results and a luxurious experience. What is the most difficult part about offering makeup services in your facility? The most difficult part about offering makeup services in my facility is carrying A LOT of inventory to address a variety of different complexions, but I LOVE solving my clients’ color challenges!

February2018

LNEonline.com

What kind of makeup specials do you offer? I will often offer a Date Night Face special that includes a light exfoliating treatment followed by a makeup application to enhance freshly glowing skin!

MAKEUP AREA Please describe your makeup area. The makeup area in my spa occupies about 25 percent of the counter space in the client receiving area. I use outdoor style, which lets me really focus on getting the color analysis perfect! Do you tweak the area for specific events or promotions? I will incorporate items to convey a feel or theme to my makeup area, but they are temporary. I think it’s important to maintain a strong brand presence throughout my entire spa.

TEAM MEMBERS What specific qualities do you look for in a member of your staff? I seek out skill, maturity, and a great work ethic. Communication, professionalism, and a high level of expertise are very important to me as well. I wouldn’t bring on anyone who is new to any of this. My clients’ expectations are high. I also try to choose employees who excel at the things I do not, allowing everyone to shine in their own way!

MARKETING How do you promote your makeup services? A large part of my business is based on looking at people as a whole. I consider their health and wellness as it relates to their body, skin and image. Color is a part of that so it naturally falls into

their program when they want an image reboot. When I explain the system to someone, I have a very high rate of return on investment of that time. My promotion is mostly through explanation on my website, word of mouth, and referrals. I also use social media channels like Instagram, Facebook, and my blog to promote my spa’s services. I currently work with a PR agency and am in the process of building my Yelp and Google communities as well.

INSIDER TIPS How do you perform consultations? Clients book an hour of time to consult with me and plan a program for typically a year of service. I listen to their concerns, objectives, and budget and we create what will work for them to provide ongoing success. Do you have rituals or methods of creating positive energy for your spa? The energy for S-Team is set through the clean lines of the décor and a positive tone. I think about what I personally enjoy when I receive a treatment and build from there. I want my clients to feel like S-Team is a place they can go for a wonderful service, but also just to make their day a little better! What does your business do that makes it UNIQUE from the competition? There are two key differentiators. First, I evaluate the person in total, meaning how they fuel their body and what they put in it. Second, my business is not volume focused, it’s very tailored and my clients can feel that. Once a client feels that sense of belonging that I provide here, they enjoy coming regularly to keep their personal progress moving in a positive direction.

What advice would you pass along to other spa owners or to those thinking of offering makeup services in their spa? Figure out what yo u are passionate about and make that what yo u do. My business came ab out as a culmination of th ings I love to do. I don't add services I either don't belie ve in or don’t enjoy perfo rming. Do your research and don't be afraid to take on fewer clients to put out a better prod uct. More isn't always better; sometimes it’s ju st more.

LNEonline.com

February2018

LNEonline.com

ridal BMakeup

Packages How to construct a bridal makeup package for a seamless client experience By Aurora Solis Bridal makeup is one of the most sought after makeup services in the industry. As an esthetician or makeup artist working from a salon or spa, your ability to produce beautiful, professional and profitable bridal packages is vital to the growth and success of your makeup business. Every step along the way, from the consultation to the trial, and finally the big day, is a chance to impress your client and benefit from her referrals. Creating a bustling bridal makeup business requires organization, planning and unique marketing strategies. It also comes with a particular set of challenges related to timing, travel, pricing and scheduling. Let’s breakdown the “I Do’s” and Don’ts of bridal beauty.

LNEonline.com

February2018

Image Bridal Makeup Packages

the look in as much detail as possible. You might want to make two copies of the face-chart, one for you and one for the bride, so that everyone is on the same page when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time for wedding bells to ring. This chart will be both your guide and your packing list (if the wedding is on-location) for the date of the event. The bride should have complete confidence that her wedding makeup will look identical to the agreed upon trail look. Just like all other aspects of the wedding, the makeup should be preplanned. A proper trial will ensure no surprises on the big day. The wedding day should be fun and exciting! Make sure to perform flash photography tests, as well as photo tests in multiple lightening scenarios - especially natural light. You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want any surprises on the big day, or once the photos get back to you. Brides expect to look flawless on camera and in person, so double check your color matches in as many different lighting situations as possible. The trial should be scheduled at least one month in advance of the wedding.

Bridal Packages A robust bridal package is a must when starting to amp up your bridal makeup business. Taking the time to sit and predetermine pricing, scheduling and policies will eliminate confusion and conflict when working with a future client. The best bridal makeup artists make the process as effortless and stress-free as possible - brides are under enough pressure as is! All packages should include the following:

Consultation: What is the bride looking to achieve with her makeup on her wedding day? Are you the right artist with the right toolkit for her needs? The consultation is a complimentary appointment in which the bride can assess if your services align with her vision. The consultation should be done in the studio

February2018

LNEonline.com

so that the client can see the products and tools that the artist carries, as well as so the artist can assess the condition of the brideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s skin, features, etc. This is also when the bride should communicate her wedding theme, colors, ambience, and dress selection to the artist. This way, the artist will be more prepared in selecting colors and textures when it comes time for the trial.

Trial: The trial is perhaps the most important part of the bridal makeup experience, as this is the time to experiment, practice and solidify the exact makeup the bride will wear on her big day. A detailed and thorough trial will eliminate any stress on the wedding day, both for the bride and the artist. Make sure to document all products, colors, and tools used to complete the look. Use a face-chart to replicate

Wedding Day Makeup: Of course, the price of the package should include the wedding day makeup. The bride will be expecting a smooth application with no slip-ups, so make sure to review the trial facechart to ensure proper application and appropriate packing of your train case. If you will be doing the application in your studio, plan ahead and close off a private area for the bride and be sure to layout all necessary products beforehand. Of course, a champagne toast is never a bad idea! Always bring extra shades of foundations, concealers and powders. Brides will often tan or undergo skin care or cosmetic procedures before their wedding; you want to be able to cover any and all blemishes, as well as be able to match any change in skin tone from the trial.

Image Bridal Makeup Packages

Travel: If you are open to traveling for on-location wedding makeup, be sure to have a pricing structure for travel expenses. Set a range for how far you and your team are willing to travel, and allot a price increase per mile. This will cover your travel costs to ensure you arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t losing money, and will promote transparent pricing for your clients.

Pricing The pricing structure of your package will vary based on your location, population of your city, demand for makeup artists and market saturation. Do some research on bridal packages in your area to determine your own competitive price point. Generally speaking, the consultation should be complementary, and the wedding day makeup should be priced between 25 to 75 percent higher than the trial. Although itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best to present the package as an all inclusive price, you do want to communicate the price of each step individually, in case the bride undergoes a trial and does not wish to book you for the wedding. Below is a sample pricing structure:

Bridal Makeup Package

Many artists require a nonrefundable deposit of 50 percent of the total price before the wedding date. This will account for any cancellations or conflicts in scheduling, especially during the busy wedding season. Including gratuity in the price is up to your discretion. This will often depend on how many artists you have working with you, and how you choose to divide gratuity and compensation.

Marketing Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s modern brides are using social media to find their ideal makeup artist. In the wedding business, it is vital to have a functioning and chic webpage, as well as a current social media profile that showcases your work. Of course, social media is saturated with makeup artists, so using proper hashtags, geotags and sponsored posts are needed to increase the visibility of your posts. Before and after photos are a great way to promote your bridal makeup services, as well as reposting photos from wedding photographers of past clients. Be sure to include different angles and images of the bride at her venue so that clients can imagine themselves on their wedding day with your beautiful makeup!

The best bridal makeup artists make the process as effortless and stress-free as possible. Another effective and surefire marketing strategy is to partner with local hairstylists, wedding planners and venues. You can offer special pricing through these outlets to incentivize clients to book with you. This is a great way to instantly expand your market and connect with clients of other popular wedding planners and stylists. Add your bridal menu to your regular menu of services. Post it on your website, as well as on your social media sites for easy access. Add a link to your menu on any related email blasts and social media posts.

Consultation: Complementary Trial (at least 4 weeks before wedding date): $75 Wedding Makeup (in studio): $100 Wedding Makeup (on location): $125 Total (in studio): $175 Total (on location): $200 *Travel expenses are included for locations up to 40 miles from our studio. Beyond this, a fee of $1/mile applies for each artist.

LNEonline.com

February2018

Healthy Lashes Create instant volume and healthier looking lashes with GrandeMASCARA from Grande Cosmetics! This exclusive rich-black Italian mascara provides extreme volume while nurturing and conditioning lashes with its peptide-infused formula. GrandeMASCARA's wide-eye effect creates flirtatious lashes for a bold, curved, and clump-free finish!

1.877.835.3010 grandecosmetics.com

Ultra Creamy Liners

MAKEUP, NAILS, TOOLS AND TRENDS

Image News

NEW from Lady Burd! These ultra creamy Infinite Matte Eye Liner pencils provide highimpact eye-catching color that will last all day! Available in a variety of colors such as Aura, Bonsai, Matrix, Neptune, Storm and Truffle, these liners are perfect for creating a beautifully intense dramatic eye for each and every makeup application!

1.800.345.3448 ladyburd.com

Conceal, Not Reveal This Advanced Mineral Makeup Perfecting Concealer is ideal for concealing, not revealing! This medium to full-coverage camouflage creamy concealer hides stubborn imperfections like dark circles, age spots, puffiness, and scars and is water resistant. The Advanced Mineral Makeup Perfecting Concealer is 100 percent pigment, will not clog pores, and will not settle into fine lines and wrinkles.

800.439.9936 advancedmineralmakeup.com

Flawless Finish Set your makeup application up for a matte finish that will leave your clients looking flawless all day long! Talc-free and full of antioxidant support, this Finishing Powder from Osmosis allows you to set concealer, liquid foundation, and CC Cream with non-drying, oil absorbing benefits! This product can be applied as an overall finish to any makeup formula or for touch-ups during the day to mattify the skin.

877.777.2305 osmosisskincare.com

Visit LNEonline.com for more news 96

February2018

LNEonline.com

Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #149 on reader service card

Reader Service No.

Page Number

100.............Altair Instruments.................................................altairinstruments.com.................................................. 243 56...............Beau Institute of Permanent Cosmetics...............beauinstitute.com........................................................ 167 6,7..............Bio-Therapeutic....................................................bio-therapeutic.com.................................................... 139 87...............Biopeptix Cosmeceuticals....................................biopeptixusa.com........................................................ 271 23...............Bon Vital...............................................................bonvital.com................................................................ 265 61...............Calvet Cosmetics LLC..........................................silcskin.com................................................................ 185 15...............Cannaisseur Brands.............................................cannaisseurbrands.com.............................................. 142 33...............Circadia................................................................circadia.com................................................................ 101 62...............Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc...................................dr-jeff.com................................................................... 248 11...............Dp Derm...............................................................dpderm.com................................................................ 170 45...............Dermaconcepts....................................................dermaconcepts.com................................................... 116 2,3..............Eminence Organic Skin Care................................eminenceorganics.com............................................... 157 99...............Equipro USA.........................................................equipro-bty.com.......................................................... 242 49...............G.M. Collin Skin Care...........................................gmcollin.com............................................................... 115 47,81..........Grandelash MD.....................................................grandelashmd.com..................................................... 286 22...............Hale Cosmeceuticals............................................halecosmeceuticals.com............................................. 133 4,5..............The HydraFacial Company...................................hydrafacial.com........................................................... 201 71...............Industry Cosmetics...............................................gomyskin.com............................................................. 330 26,27..........Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia............philadelphia.skincareshows.com 82,83..........Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas............dallas.skincareshows.com 9.................Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics.....ladyburd.com.............................................................. 119 21...............Le Mieux - Bielle Cosmetics.................................biellecosmetics.com................................................... 294 17...............Lira Clinical...........................................................liraclinical.com............................................................. 203 37...............Lucrèce Physician’s Aesthetic Research..............lucrece.com................................................................. 263 63...............M'lis......................................................................mlis.com...................................................................... 217 89...............Minkys..................................................................minkys.com................................................................. 169 97...............Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................rejuvilab.com............................................................... 149 16...............Silver Shell Beauty..............................................silvershellbeauty.com.................................................219 57...............Skin Script RX......................................................skinscriptrx.com.......................................................... 289 55...............Vivant Pharmaceuticals........................................vivantskincare.com..................................................... 282

*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.

February2018

LNEonline.com

Make this year a beautiful one!

Proudly made in The USA and CANADA For your nearest distributor or for a brochure, call this toll-free number 1-877-324-2226 Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #242 on reader serviceLNEonline.com card

February2018

Introducing DTX the DiamondTome速 Experience App for iPad速

The DTX - DiamondTome Experience is a fun, new interactive App. Clients can learn what DiamondTome Exfoliation can do for their skin. In just minutes, clients will be able to virtually treat their skin conditions using one of our virtual wands. This is your opportunity to make those results - their reality! #upyourskingame with DiamondTome and download the DTX App on your iPad thru the App Store today. iPad速 and App Store速 are registered trademarks of Apple Inc.

| diamondtome.com Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #243 on reader service card