FASHION BEAUTY HEALTH
ifestyle f ondon
MODEST DRESSING FOR THE MODERN FASHIONISTA IS FACEBOOK MAKING US DEPRESSED?
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HOW TO COVER YOURSELF IN CHOCOLATE THE HEALTHY WAY
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EDITORS LETTER
Can you believe 2015 is already over? Pastel hair has come and gone, YouTubers are now the one’s to watch on the red carpet and of course the news of 1D splitting broke the hearts of everyone. But other than that it has been an amazing year. I am so thankful to have been able to share it with such an amazing team who have made everything possible. We have tackled a lot of issues dealing with mental health and with the help of you guys, raised a lot of money for deserving charities. This issue tackles a lot - including depression in young people, how to dress fabulously whilst remaining modest and male mental health. The most common cause of death for males under 35 is suicide, so we really dig deep into investigating the issue whilst giving advice about helplines, organisations and charities (p.10). We also look into the way subcultures on social media are affecting the way we dress, specifically looking at the exploitation of women on these sites. (p22.). And have you ever wondered how ghd made such an impact in the in the way people style their hair? Read on page34 a short profile of the brand, and find out it was not always success for them! Here’s a look at our year in pics. Hope you have a wonderful Christmas, and try not to drink as much as I’m sure we will! New Year in Milan
JAN
Winter shopping in Amsterdam
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Venice vibes First festival of the year
APRIL
MAY
MARCH Race For Life: Pretty Mudder
JUNE
AUGUST
SEPT
Casually climbing Mt Kilimanjaro
JULY Safaris in South Africa
Our first LOL engagement! Home for some London cocktails
Travelling Thailand
Helicopter rides
OCT in Oz
NOV
DEC
CONTRIBUTORS HEALTH
BEAUTY
FASHION
Feature writers
Feature Writers
Feature Writers
Shannon Cowley Gemma Smith Izzie Sullivan Caitlyn Hobbs Jade Ratcliffe
Grace Faulkner Hayley Warren
Christie Bannon Michelle Whitney Teh Yusof
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CONTENTS The rise of social media models
It’s never been easier to become a fashion symbol
FEMINISM: why are we going backwards?
Exploring social medias influence on self eploitation
Chocolate covered everything day - 8
Calories AND fitness, what more could we want?!
Good hair day, every day - 34
MODEST FASHION - 20
The rise, the fall and the rise of the GHD
It’s time to look classy and good
DECEMBER Is hypnotism the key to good health? - 12 The easy way to eliminate health issues
Stay looking fresh this christmas - 24
Because all that chocolate and booze can take it’s toll
Men’s mental health is not to be ignored - 10 Speaking up about your emotions is not weak
Don’t waste another New Year’s resolution - 6 Putting faith into your fitness resolution this year
Skincare revolution - the medical makeover - 31 Do you know what’s in your makeup?
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DON’T WASTE ANOTHER NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTION As Christmas approaches, so does the holiday belly. And what’s the first step towards getting rid of that? A New Year’s resolution of course!
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verybody overindulges once in a while, but the cold weather seems to trigger the animal inside us all! How could we resist celebrating the party month with lashings of chocolate, hearty meals and, of course, oodles of booze! Once Christmas is over it’s time to start preparing for the summer, so off to the gym we go! However, the budget is tight for young Londoners, so how can we stay in shape without getting a second or even third job? Can we justify buying a membership when we’ll almost certainly give it up after a few uses? It is thought that around 77% of the UK will be wasting money on unused gym passes... that were probably purchased in January. It’s no wonder gyms can afford to dish out the deals after Christmas! But it’s not only gyms that take their toll on our bank accounts. In a bid to drop those extra pounds we purchase diet products, home workout equipment and supplements that we either have no idea how to use or can’t find the motivation to. According to Crunch.co.uk, £37million a year is wasted by NOT working out. Have we always been like this? Or are we getting lazier? Personal trainer, George Scott, says, “more people are working out in their homes to save money, but there is less motivation when you have a sofa and TV tempting you.
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“Many of my clients say that by working out with a trainer it becomes less of a chore and more of a hobby.” If you’re too busy to go to the gym or just can’t find the motivation to keep up a regime, a personal trainer may be the way forward for you. However, not everyone can afford this luxury, particularly London residents.
What can we do to save money and keep fit?
This New Years instead of wasting your money, why not do it the old fashioned way? Gyms aren’t a fast track to a new body! You can receive the same results from your home! Not only will you avoid the overcrowded gyms, where you spend longer waiting for a piece of
health & fitness equipment than actually using it. But you can avoid travelling in the blistering cold. Forget treadmills, cross-trainers and bench presses! You can get the same outcome from household products and good old Youtube! There are tons of tutorials and free workout classes on the web. It sure beats cluttering up your shelves with DVD’s, which will become monotonous really fast! And instead of weights, try using cans of beans! If they just don’t cut it then purchase a cheap set of weights. “You can get the same, or even better results with a kettlebell,” says Scott. A kettlebell is an off-balance weight that gives you a combination of weight training and cardio. By trying to balance the weight you are using muscles that dumbbells alone don’t touch. After asking 15 young Londoners what was top on their New Years Resolutions list, 75% answered with either weight loss or getting fit. They explained their plans on getting a new body in the New Year: “I’ve already researched gyms in my area, but they are really pricey, so I’ve asked for workout equipment for Christmas instead.”- Sarah Watson, 22, West Hampstead. “I already have a gym membership but I’ve been slacking over the past few months, so I’m going to make use of it by going at least four times a week.” –Ben James, 25, Cricklewood. “I don’t have the funds for the gym or the space at home, so I’m going to try and cut out junk food and jog most days. The only thing putting me off is the cold weather.” – Jack Barby, 19, Watford. “I try every year but I normally do too much at once and fail, this time I’m going to take everything one step at a time. My first step is to drink more water, cut out sugar and slowly introduce workouts.” – Shaimill Haik, 22, Kenton.
“In my opinion the best workout will always be HIIT. It speeds up your metabolism and you can get the same results as an hour of running in 20 minutes.” George suggests HIIT (High Intensity Interval Training) for those of us that want to see results fast. “I’ve trained a lot of clients, both in the gym and outside, but in my opinion the best workout will always be HIIT. It speeds up your metabolism and you can get the same results as an hour of running in 20 minutes. I am a big fan of
‘Insanity’ although it is extremely tough and many people find it too much to start off with. There are so many similar workouts, that you can adjust to your level, I strongly recommend it to anyone on a tight budget. “But we do thrive on competition, so by going to the gym you’re more likely to reach you’re goals. It’s keeping it up that’s the hardest part. There will always be an excuse not to go.” So why do we make up excuses if we enjoy the competition so much? The most common reason is boredom. We run on the treadmill, whilst we think about what to go on next, constantly looking at the clock judging how much longer it is until it’s acceptable to leave. If this is you, then try attending classes. It’ll put the fun back into working out and you’ll have guidance through the whole process. If you absolutely must attend a gym then avoid the ones with luxury facilities with saunas, swimming baths and hot tubs. There are many budget gyms such as ‘The Gym’ and ‘Pure Gym’, which will provide you with all the equipment you’ll need without the excess prices. And instead of committing to a membership, you can pay monthly, leaving you in control. Before you give your time up to a specific place, you should try before you buy. Pay a daily price the first time you attend, so if you don’t feel like it’s suited to you then you can try another one.
The best part about London is that you can probably find a gym within walking distance, because that bus fair soon adds up!
Here’s our Top 7 Tips on how to stay motivated: 1. Buddy up! Find someone to join you and give you that healthy competition. 2. Cut out the sugar! It will counteract your workout and when the results don’t show, you’re more likely to give up. 3. Say no to caffeine! Yes it gives us a boost of energy, but once that burst has run out, you’ll feel even more tired. Not to mention sluggish. 4. Get enough sleep! Lack of sleep leaves you tired and makes you eat more. 5. Water, water, water! It’s your best friend, not only will you wake up refreshed and energised, but your skin will appear rejuvenated! 6. Don’t try too much at once! Perhaps the biggest mistake everybody makes. You’re more likely to give up because it’s too hard and besides... you can’t build a Ferrari in a day! 7. Give yourself real rewards! When you reach a goal treat yourself. But not with food! -JR LIFESTYLE OF LONDON
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CHOCOLATE COVERED EVERYTHING DAY Why it’s totally acceptable to cover your toned, healthy bod in chocolate.
December without a doubt has the best day of the year, no we’re not talking about Christmas, we’re talking about Chocolate Covered Everything Day. It’s safe to say chocolate has got a stigma. Something always thought of as a waistline lynching, teeth destroying, dangerous little treat is making its gloriously healthy comeback. We explored the wellness benefits of this heavenly bean and the new wave of health alternatives hitting us this season.
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ecember 16th is chocolate covered everything day. And that’s exactly what you should be doing,
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covering everything in chocolate. One of the most popular foods in the world chocolate has been around for thousands of years, dating all the way back to the ancient Olmec’s. So why has such a well-established, well-loved, super bean been shunned by so many health loving, body conscious guys and
gals? Don’t let your health and fitness goals get in the way, it’s a little known fact that chocolate can help your wellbeing, fertility and general happiness A 100 gram bar of 75% dark chocolate. contains fibre, most of your RDA for Iron, Magnesium, Copper, and Manganese and is loaded with potassium.
health & fitness We delved deep and asked health and happiness experts to reveal why chocolate should hold a place in your healthy diet.
The Super Foodist – Rick Hay
A Health blogger and anti ageing and fitness nutritionist Rick has years of clinical experience in nutrition, naturopathy, botanical medicine and iridology. “I love dark chocolate and cacao! They are both great for the immune system as they are antioxidant powerhouses plus the have a positive effect on mood, what more could you want? The slightly bitter quality helps make them a good liver and gall bladder tonic. They also satisfy chocolate cravings (obviously) making it less likely you will snack on more unhealthy sweet treats. Dark chocolate also helps cognitive function and provides a burst of energy on a cellular level. To sum it all up dark choc has superbly powerful antioxidants that may help the body protect and repair itself. There are also benefits in terms of protecting the length of your ‘telomeres’ – little tips at the ends of your chromosomes that scientists have found shorten as the body ages. Longer healthy telomeres mean a longer healthy cardio vascular system.
The Fertility expert - Isabelle Obert
Isabelle Obert is a nutrition consultant who has worked at one of London’s leading fertility clinics for ever 10 years. Struggling with fertility herself, she has helped thousands of couples with her holistic approach to fertility. “Dark chocolate is a rich source of the amino acid L-arginine which studies show can increase the volume of ejaculate and improve sperm count and motility. The darker the chocolate, the better. The best to buy is the delicious bittersweet 85 per cent dark chocolate... a little goes a long way”
The Nutritionist – Charlotte Watts
Nutritionist and yoga teacher, Charlottes practice and teaches mindfulness. She is the author of the new super health book The De-Stress Effect: Rebalance Your Body's Systems for Vibrant Health and Happiness. “Chocolate is rich in anti-inflammatory and heart protective polyphenol antioxidants that are also found in wine and green tea. Don’t be fooled by talk of ‘natural sugars’ chocolate is bitter, and it its sweet it contains sugar. Choose small amount of high quality dark chocolate to take advantage of the ‘happy chemical’ beta-endorphins which it helps the brain. My top tip is to eat dark- chocolate covered Brazil nuts. The nut protein present comes with more flavour and satisfaction, and will make you feel fuller for longer. Raw chocolate such as cacao and cacao nibs is becoming more popular because unlike commercial preparation, the beans aren’t roasted, retaining much higher levels of antioxidants, and has a less agitating caffeine effect. Chocolate also evokes feelings of love and tenderness, so people around you will benefit too!”
“Chocolate contains PEA aka the love molecule, which is the same chemical that your brain creates when you feel like you’re falling in love... you’ll get feelgood endorphins, boosting your mood and general happiness.” The Osteopath – Antonia Cooke
cholesterol. This is because this clever little bean raises the levels of ‘good’ cholesterol, lowering your risk of cardiovascular disease.
2. It's good for your skin.
Against all odds chocolate is totally beneficial to your skin. The flavonols in dark chocolate can actually protect your skin against sun damage. Next time your sun worshipping on a sandy shore, make sure to pack a bar of delicious, skin saving dark chocolate in your beach bag.
3. It is good for the brain.
These same fiery little Flavanols that help your skin are also thought to reduce memory loss in older people, and the anti-inflammatory qualities of dark chocolate have been found beneficial in treating brain injuries such as concussion. Professor A. David Smith, founding director of the Oxford University’s Project to Investigate Memory and Ageing (OPTIMA) reveals that ‘a little bit of chocolate each day improved brain cognition,’ Helping to prevent rising diseases such as Alzheimer’s and dementia. The benefits of dark chocolate also stretch to patients with concussion, strokes, MS, Parkinson Disease, Autism and ADHD.
4. Chocolate makes you feel better.
Chocolate contains phenylethylamine (PEA) aka the love molecule, which is the same chemical that your brain creates when you feel like you’re falling in love. PEA encourages your brain to release feel-good endorphins, ultimately boosting your mood and general happiness. Remember to stick to dark so you wont boost the number on the scales. Its no wonder a recent poll showed some women rated chocolate above sex, and men above a spin in a sports car. We promise, your body will love you for covering it in chocolate. - IS
Cook is the director of Essentiallyhealth.com, and a health, wellness and fitness professional. “Dark chocolate 70% or above cacao is an amazing natural stimulant. I usually go for Lindt, It’s Full of anti-oxidants, and it a real mood enhancer. It can also help with tiredness and fatigue, so make dark chocolate a part of your daily routine (just not the whole bar!)”
More reasons to up your dark choccie intake. 1.It reduces cholesterol
did you know consumption of cocoa has been show to r educe levels of ‘bad’ LIFESTYLE OF LONDON
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MEN’S MENTAL HEALTH IS NOT TO BE IGNORED
Men’s mental health is a serious issue that needs attention. As male suicide figures creep up due to men hiding their feelings and everyday worries; it’s important for men to know that they can speak up about emotions, just like women, and it’s not anything to be ashamed of.
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Men’s Health Forum (MHF) is the main voice for men’s health, focusing on their wellbeing. LIFESTYLE OF LONDON
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uicide numbers linked to men’s mental health are at an all-time high. Jack Daniel Mills, aged 26, from London believes that mental illness in men is an overlooked issue in society. “Support for men’s mental health is at an all-time low. There is a stigma regarding men talking about emotions, like they’re incapable of talking about it, but some people do realise that this is so untrue. “I think feminist groups in particular are bringing light to the problems around mental health and the social expectations upon men.” According to the Mental Health Foundation (Five Years On, Department Of Health 2005), suicide remains the most common cause of death in men under the age of 35. This shocking news makes it even more poignant for men to speak up about their intimate emotions, to potentially reduce the numbers of suicides occurring. Discussing emotions should be a sign of strength rather than a weakness, and this is an opportunity for men to redefine their roles compared to the traditional view of men being strong and alpha-males. Not only that, but men can learn from women, as a move toward emotional equality for both sexes. Emin Hovanessian, aged 20, from London too, is a Law student and thinks that being a ‘man’ is very difficult. “I think it bothers men the thought of opening up about their issues because at the end of the day, they are a man. They think they can fight it all without
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A lot of men may feel bound by their emotions and not confident enough to tell someone, but there is lots of help available. telling the world about it.” CALM: the Campaign Against Living Miserably is a charity that seeks to prevent male suicide in the UK. Their work is exceptional so any donation or recognition would certainly help towards combating this rising concern. Their helpline is at www.thecalmzone.net Men and women should not pay attention to what they see on TV. When men watch TV no doubt they look up to the actors on screen. There is so much competition to impress women, filled with many male egos battling one another. Reality TV is undoubtedly affecting young males and not for the better. Equally, pornographic movies can make men feel threatened, says a student from the University of Westminster: “They can make men feel like they can’t fulfil the sexual expectations of women, affecting men’s minds. It is so dangerous. “I think that films make men look like they’re up to no good; presenting them as cheaters, liars and other shunned-upon figures.” Women then have a pre-conceived perception of their partner, and in many cases, this can affect relationships and sometimes tear them apart. Women may feel their partners are being secretive as they notice a change in behaviour, when realistically he may be suffering with hidden emotional traumas – but feels that he has no way of explaining them. Mind is another leading mental health charity in England and Wales and aims to create better lives for people experiencing mental distress. Their helpline is open MonFri, 9am-6pm: 0300 123 3393. Men are equal to women and should not be ashamed to open up. It is important for men to know that we have moved on from the traditional gender
role stereotypes, from the strong silent man who doesn’t share emotions. UN Women says that women’s economic equality is good for business as they are becoming equal in the working world. In comparison to the past, women are now increasingly independent and men should remember just because they may be seen as tough and strong, this shouldn’t stop them from opening up; it would really help to relieve hidden anxiety.
“Not allowing ego to get in the way is a great first step, and this will not affect how powerful someone perceives a man, the ‘macho’ image will still be there...” Lewis Malcolm, a young male living in Luton, near London says: “I see how men feel like they can’t talk about their feelings, as they may be deemed soft or gay. It’s a subject that men never share, and if they do, it’ll most likely be with their woman; that’s if they have the confidence to do so.” The Priory Group is a reputable company who carry out in-depth research on men’s mental health. Following International Men’s Day they surveyed 1,000 men to unravel their attitudes towards mental health. They found that the biggest pressures in men’s life were work (32%), finance (31%) and health (23%). They also uncovered that most men believe their
mental state has a negative impact on their working performance and relationships. Another young male in his twenties who feels strongly about the issue is Joe Shyna, he believes that men think there is a predisposed role in society for them that they cannot escape. “Men believe they need to be providers and protectors, giving them no room for emotional pressure to come out. The instinctual reaction is to deal with it and bear it on the chin, to fend for themselves.” Some men believe that it all depends on the individual, as Jonny Gilchrist from Belfast found out. He is a Psychotherapist and Neuro-Linguistic Programmer: “You would get men who are open about things who tell their friends about their problems but then others will keep even the smallest thing private, because men don’t like to let their guard down and show weakness.” Something that can be taken from Jonny’s valid opinion is that men realise once they do open up, “things aren’t so bad”. It is fine to let the guard down around trustworthy people who can help. “The longer they stay stubborn about problems, it’s a vicious circle in their head which they can’t break, which in turn, makes them worry about their problems more and breaks them down”, he says. Not allowing ego to get in the way is a great first step, and this will not affect how powerful someone perceives a man, the ‘macho’ image will still be there - even after talking about emotional worries that are affecting everyday life. Follow mental health events here: http://www.nsun.org.uk/news/mentalhealth-events/ to help further raising awareness for men’s mental health and make a difference. -GS LIFESTYLE OF LONDON
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IS HYPNOTISM THE KEY TO GOOD HEALTH? When people think of hypnotism, they usually imagine swinging pendants, swirls in their eyes and doing things against their will. This fictional concept has led people to be distrustful of the practice (understandably). But hypnosis - or hypnotherapy - is actually a much more believable process, with a much more believable goal, than we’ve been led to believe by films, TV and books.
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tress, anxiety, weight problems, alcoholism, smoking, depression, are all but a few of the things that can be cured by hypnotherapy - they have even been known to cure serious or supposedly incurable health problems. What is hypnosis? Hypnotherapy uses hypnosis, which is an altered state of consciousness. Although scientists disagree about how it works, most experts say it is a relaxation technique that uses the power of suggestion or the placebo effect. A lot of people are dubious about how, and if, hypnosis works. I spoke to Renata Bartoli, a hypnotherapist based in Harrow, London, who explained that we actually ‘hypnotise ourselves everyday’. It’s simply a detachment from reality, when our conscious takes a back-seat for a while and lets our sub-conscious do the work. For example, have you ever been reading a book (or concentrating on something) and haven’t heard when someone has tried talking to you? This is a light state of hypnosis. As is when we are trying to remember something, trying to look for something that is right in front of our eyes (have you ever looked for your phone whilst being on your phone?),
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having the feeling that time has slowed or sped up (there’s a reason that traffic jams seemingly last forever) or even blocking out a constant noise (those who live on a busy road. There are many types of hypnotic states and we do all experience them on a daily basis. So, as long as you’re willing to Things commonly treated by hypnotherapy: • OCD • Cancer • Anxiety • Phobias • Smoking • Migraines • Depression • Motivation • Alcoholism • Sexual abuse • Panic Attacks • Drug addiction • Weight problems • Multiple Sclerosis • Asthma Insomnia • Past life regression • Anger management • Breast enlargement • Relief of childbirth pain • Irritable bowel syndrome • Skin problems (Eczema, Acne) • Confidence/Motivation/Self esteem
be hypnotised - you can be. And as long as you’re motivated - It can work. Hypnosis is a scary prospect. Films and TV has taught us that it’s mind control - but it’s not. Renata Bartoli said that “no-one can do it against your will and no one can be made to do anything they don’t want to do”. You’ conscious mind is still there, ready to come forward if you feel uncomfortable with anything. “There’s a theory that there’s no hypnosis, only self-hypnosis” Renata explained - so we are in fact hypnotising ourselves, we just need someone to guide us there How does it work? There are theories that most health problems are nothing but placebos. Basically, our subconscious mind controls our bodies. And if we - or someone else - convince ourselves(even unknowingly) that we are a certain way, or that something is wrong with, our subconscious will lead the body to believe this also. Although it may seem a little far-fetched and hard to get your head around, the placebo effect is more powerful than most of us think. The conscious mind can take five to ten pieces of information at any given time, but the subconscious can take millions. So repeating something will slowly feed it
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into your subconscious. Take for example driving, or swimming. It’s something most of us do naturally once learning how. And habits, such as smoking, become more ingrained the longer we do them. “The more you repeat it, the stronger the imprint. Like a car on a muddy road - the tracks become deeper and deeper” - Renata Bartoli. However, that doesn’t mean that all hope is lost for long-term smokers. Since there is not usually a deeper meaning behind someone needing to smoke, the habit simply needs to be replaced with something else. People who try to quit smoking on their own usually do this themselves unknowingly - they swap it for eating, drinking, etc. Hypnotherapy will replace it with something healthier, or simply a thought process that gives you motivation. One example of this is that people are told during hypnosis that ‘a being’ is following them all the time, waiting for them to smoke: and if they do, something bad will happen.
“We hypnotise ourselves everyday” Amanda Pollitt took hypnotherapy to increase her motivation to do work. As a freelance designer her income relied on her motivation to get things done. “A family
friend suggested it to me. I wasn’t sure at first but I did some research on it and was persuaded by other peoples good experiences. And I was desperate! It was one of the best work-related decisions i’ve made. I just needed a push and that was it. It was year ago and I haven’t had any major motivation problems since”. The cost of hypnotherapy usually ranges between 50 and 90 pounds. This may sound quite expensive, but the success rate is astonishingly high. If you’re a smoker, think about how much money you’ll be saving giving up cigarettes. Or if stress is you’re problem, think about the jeopardy your salary, or investment in tuition, may be in. If it’s a major problem, it is possible to go through the NHS. But, there are cheaper alternatives. There are plenty of hypnosis books and apps available now - they haven’t been scientifically proven to work, and some say that the apps are an example of technology racing ahead of science, but their are plenty of good reviews and - as with professional hypnotherapy - if you believe and want it to work, then there’s a good chance it will. And when they’re so cheap and even free, it won’t hurt to give them a go.
- Free hypnosis - app by Joseph Clough (free) - Relax & Sleep Well - app by Glenn Harold (free) - Lose weight with Andrew Johnson app by Michael Schneider ($2.99) - Quit smoking hypnosis - app by Mindifi ( free) - Easy way to stop smoking - book by Allen Carr (£7.49 from Amazon). - The easyweigh to lose weight - book by Allen Carr (£9.98 from Amazon) So, if you’re sick of not feeling in control, spending money on bad habits, or trips to the doctors, therapist or chemist - hypnotherapy is definitely something worth considering. - CH
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SOCIAL MEDIA & MENTAL HEALTH
In a generation where phones are acceptable at the dinner table, and Facebook messenger is a vice for meaningful conversation; the affects of social media are just a part of everyday life. But, is the world plummeting into a hole of mental health issues?
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atching Back to the Future and seeing 2015 bring us hover boards, flying cars and 3D cinemas was kind of exciting, if not unbelievable- but the reality is far from Marty McFly and Doc’s expectations. If they came to 2015 now, they’d be very disappointed. What better way to start your day than watching everyone on the tube scrolling through their Twitter feed, chatting to their mates on Facebook, or examining Kim Kardashian’s new Instagram post. Face-to-face conversations are minimal. In fact if somebody is chatting on the underground they are likely to get a few angry glares and eye brow raises. Everyone is fully emerged in cyber life; even David Cameron has a Twitter account. It seems the concept of currency has been lost. Nobody is living in the moment, instead they are taking pictures so they can tell their Facebook friends the moment has happened. Holidays are ruined by an endless search for WiFi connection, and dinner dates are spent editing the perfect Instagram post. Surely this change in the way the world communicates is having an adverse affect on our wellbeing. Or are we just being elderly and dreaming of the good old days? Since the year 2000, the number of people suffering from mental health issues has doubled. And, now 42 million people worldwide suffer from common mental health disorders. So, is it just a coincidence that the rise of Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram happened in the last 15 years? Speaking to psychologist, Professor
Cary Cooper, Lifestyle of London gets but this way of living could be causing the opinion of a professional as we try problems in the modern world. to understand whether social media “Facebook is ok if you use it properly is contributing to mental health issues to maintain relationships with people who among young people. live far away from you. But when you get “Social media takes people away so absorbed in it that you spend all your from people. It enables you to maintain disposable hours on it, that’s when there friendships from a distance, but if you is a problem. There is nothing in life that are using it as a substitute when you’re you should spend all of your disposable both in London then there is potential hours on. Its just the old English adverse.” said Cary, Professor of expression, everything in moderation.” Organisational Psychology and Health at Many would argue that you can’t be The University of Manchester. addicted to social media. Cary Cooper “Some people can become very said: “I wouldn’t say it was the same as addicted to it; and their addiction is like alcohol addiction or drug addiction. But any addiction. Having to be on it all the you can get addicted to anything in life time means you aren’t engaging with and you can definitely be addicted to it. normal situations because you’re on If you are so absorbed in it then it isn’t social media.” Professor Cary Cooper healthy and it can be damaging. There explains how addiction to social media is no way you can stop it. Its up to the could be causing mental health, rather parents, the friends and the family of than the platform itself. anybody who seems addicted to it, and “We are talking to make that person about common mental aware of it and talk (to “When you spend all your them) about the potential health disorders like anxiety, depression, dangers. disposable hours on it and stress disorders, But, there are limited the ones that 90% of thats when its a problem.” studies that link social people with mental media as the cause of health issues have. mental health issues. It can make people have feelings of “We definitley need more research anxiety if they take it too seriously, and if on it. If there was a link it would be they become too addicted then I guess it because people get too absorbed in it, could lead to anxiety. ” and they forgo all over types of other “You use social media, or online communication like face to face. It’s anything, as a small part of your life. But, not directly the cause. Its not because you shouldn’t over use that technology you’re on your computer, and that’swhy and platform. What should be a you have depression or anxiety. But its main part of your life is face-to-face by being on social media all the time that communication, and the more you get makes you feel that way and can have an away from that, the worse its going to be.” affect on your mental health.” Its obvious that spending time on So there you go. Maybe now you’ll social media means we aren’t verbally think twice about spending three hours communicating as often as we shoud, stalking people on Instagram. -SC
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THE RISE OF SOCIAL MEDIA MODELS
We take a closer look at how the modelling industry is turning into a popularity contest with the help of Instagram. Is it becoming easier to make it as a famous international model?
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or the last year, more and more girls have been taking to Instagram in a bid to become the next big model. Perfectly posed photos are slowly becoming the norm for female users of the photo sharing platform. But what we want to know is when did the app start being used to improve career prospects? Instagram has always been a home for countless girls wanting to show off their latest selfie. But as companies are increasingly using social media to their advantage, it’s starting to become much
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more competitive. A growing number of models are now being discovered through social media and more often than not it’s by chance. But what do these scouts actually look for in an Instagram selfie? Sometimes companies already have an imagined person in mind, whether it’s a specific body type or an unusual facial feature. However, the selfies themselves are becoming less important when it comes to getting a modelling deal. What companies are now looking for is a large following and it’s quite easy to see why. Clearly by picking a girl that has a large number of followers, it offers more
exposure for the brand which is what these companies want. At a recent fashion talk Koral Leigh, of Lewis & Leigh PR, talked about her knowledge on the topic. She mentioned how another PR company turned down the opportunity of working with a model purely because she didn’t have a substantial amount of Instagram followers. It’s definitely becoming a more common theme because any girl can upload a striking selfie, but not everyone has a few thousand followers to go with it. Leigh also stated that her PR company get most of their clients by using Instagram.
fashion 5 Facts About Instagram 1. Kendall Jenner stole her older sister Kim’s record for the most liked photo on Instagram. 2. Essena O’Neill (left) recently re-captioned all of her posts so that they actually portrayed how she was feeling when they were taken. 3.Surprisingly, ‘no filter’ is actually the most popular filter that gets used on Instagram. 4. 83% of posts include hashtags in the captions. The most popular of these being ‘#tbt’, ‘#me’, ‘#cute’, ‘#beautiful’ and ‘#love’. 5. Justin Bieber is the most followed person on Instagram with an impressive 23817614 followers.
It makes you wonder if the same thing applies to today’s models that have already come from fame. For the past year or so, Kendall Jenner’s face has been plastered on ad-campaigns for countless companies all over the world. From Balmain, to Estee Lauder and even Givenchy, she’s been everywhere. But it does make you think whether she’d be as successful if she didn’t come from a family that broadcast their lives on a reality TV show. Collectively, Kendall and her younger sister Kylie have an incredible 87 million followers on their Instagram accounts.
If Kim Kardashian wasn’t her older sister would Kendall even have made it as an international model? Kylie isn’t even a model but she has just over 1 million more followers than Kendall. Even at a young age Kendall expressed an interest in becoming a model on the family’s show Keeping Up With The Kardashians. But if Kim Kardashian wasn’t her older sister would Kendall even have made it as a model? The same can also be said for Kendall’s close friend and fellow model,
Gigi Hadid. Her mother, Yolanda Foster, is a former international model and now appears on the Real Housewives of Beverly Hills. Gigi often appears on the show and having a former model for a mother must have helped her on her way to becoming one herself. She now has just over 9 million followers on Instagram and recently made her debut as a Victoria’s Secret Angel. So would Gigi be the successful model that she is today if it wasn’t for her mother? There’s no denying Kendall and Gigi’s abilities as models, clearly they’re both really great at what they do. It’s just quite easy to assume that their contracts were practically handed to them on a plate. It doesn’t take a genius to see that having famous parents, or in Kendall’s case – sisters, is a huge benefit to their future careers in the limelight. It’s also clear to see that there has been an shift when it comes to modelling. It’s definitely becoming more and more important to have lots of followers rather than actually having eye-catching photos. It’s helpful for companies to look through Instagram profiles to really get a feel of what someone’s like and if they’re right for the job. For many models, their profiles act as a social media version of a portfolio. It’s a great platform to showcase self-portraits, professional shots or just casual candid shots too.
Should modelling agencies be using sites like Instagram to unveil new talent? It’s not all that different to getting picked out in the street or at an airport like Kate Moss. It does mainly come down to luck. Kate Moss just so happened to be in the right place at the right time when she was discovered. You could say that it’s pure luck that a modelling scout clicks on a random girl’s profile and decides to sign her. Perhaps if the technology was around back when Kate Moss was a teenager she would’ve been discovered through social media. We’ll never know. Big companies, scouts and even designers are changing the ways they do their jobs with the help of social media. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Just because they’re sifting through selfies on Instagram, doesn’t mean there’s not still room for the surprise encounters on the street. If anything, companies’ using social media is a good thing. It gives more young people and aspiring models an opportunity to be discovered. This does really just go to show that times are changing and technology is the way forward. It’s not even just about the photos anymore, it’s more of a popularity contest and which model can bring the most exposure to the brand. At the end of the day, does it really matter where a model is found? If they were picked out at a shopping centre or spotted on Instagram, as long as they get the job done is there really much of a difference? So for all of you aspiring models out there – keep taking those selfies because you never know where they’ll get you. -CB
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SYMBOL OF E
Girls in hijab now are incorporating street style into their wardrobes. We talk to real girls and ask them what makes fashion modest.
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ry typing #hijabifashion on Instagram and you’ll find millions of images of women wearing various styles of hijabs. Social media has aided modest fashion, turning it into something more approachable and effortless. Instagram icons like Dina Tokia and Nabilaa from Fashion with Faith are often seen as an inspiration to girls who are looking for style tips.
Most Muslim girls identify themselves with these Insta-famous girls. Apart from their fashion styles, these modest fashion icons are encouraging young girls to realise that wearing the hijab should not restrict them from expressing their love of fashion and trends. The hijabi girls (that’s the slang term for fashionable girls who wear a headscarf) LIFESTYLE OF LONDON
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opt to wear trending pieces, in a modest way. These girls rose to fame due to their stylish personalities and countless tutorials on how to wear a headscarf. There social media accounts is always filled with their OOTD posts and selfies of them in flawless make-up. Bold eyebrows are apparently in so are nude lips.
home daily. Learned to perform her solat at a young age and started practicing at her early teenage years. Now 18, she embraced the hijab. Covering her showing only her face and palms as obligated by her religion. Her family and friends reacted positively to her new appearance.
Long jackets and colourful subtle prints are usually what ‘’Insta-famous’’ Muslim girls are usually seen. Headscarves in plain colours are easier to pair with colourful outfits.The clothes featured are more often from highstreet brands like Topshop, Zara and the likes. The girls showed that wearing the headscarf is effortless.
With her tinted green eyes and fair complexion, you wouldn’t deny her English roots. Now add in a headscarf, her Turkish heritage is more prominent. When we met, Elif was wearing an on trend long cardigan from Forever 21. Her outfit is effortlessly coordinated in dark shades of navy, even though she insisted she quickly threw it together before the meeting.
Growing up, Elif knew that one day she would wear the headscarf. She lives in a practicing Muslim household having the azan (call to prayer) echo through her
It’s no different with Asyikin Azrin,22, a visual communication student, she also knows only too well what Elif
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EXPRESSION went through. Unlike Elif, she grew up in Malaysia, a country where a predominantly Muslim country. The choice of wearing a hijab was not forced upon them. It was a decision they made alone. It also meant that they have the right to dress without sacrificing style, the headscarf is just an addition to their growing wardrobe. Both girls love dressing up and they tend to look at Instagram and try to replicate the style into their own wardrobe. Being students, they shop around affordable high street brands but it hard to find headscarves from these retail shops.
Your personality isn’t restriced when you’re wearing a headscarf Usually, they tend to go to Insta-shops that sell scarves and turbans. But sometimes it’s frustrating to have not the luxury to go to a shop and try to feel the material. Fashion designer, Hana Tajima lived in the UK most of her life. She started her brand, Maysaa out of frustration on the lack of modest clothing. Her electic style began to gain reputation from South East Asia where the population are majority Muslims. Young girls began to copy the way she wrap the long scarf. Japanese casual wear retailer, Uniqlo, was quick to jump in and collaborate with Hana Tajima for a collection of modest clothing. While her designs received rave reviews, the modest girls in London were expressing their disappointment, as the collection was not available in the Europe. Even H&M realised the rise of modest fashion. Recently, the retail brand launched a campaign called “Close the Loop” on sustainable clothing aimed to encourage customers to recycle clothes. In the clip, 23-year-old blogger, Mariah Idrissi was featured clad in a beige coat and scarf complete with round
Uniqlo x Hana Tajima
sunglasses. Her outfit in the campaign represents what a majority of Muslim girls wear on a daily basis. By featuring Mariah Idrissi, they’re acknowledging that a majority of their customers come from a Muslim background. However, even though they included a modest model in their campaign, they haven’t truly produced anything specific for the covered customers.
Hana Tajima
Asyikin and Elif said it makes the shopping experience more fun as they have to decide which outfit suits best on them. What really matters is that they look good while wearing the headscarves. Once you wear the scarf, you’re immediately associated with the religion. The girls are aware of this and couldn’t be prouder. However, it might seem that there are certain expectations when you wear a hijab. But, H&M model Mariah Idrissi told the Standard, “Your personality isn’t restricted when you’re wearing a headscarf.” She loves fashion, has an amazing style without being too revealing. She often wears the turban and covers her neck with turtlenecks and fashionable necklaces. The hijab doesn’t take away your personality and love for pretty things. It just enhances the way you feel about yourself and the world. Nowadays, social media provides a platform for Muslim girls to show their love of fashion.
Modest fashion on Instagram And it will continue to be a place where these young girls use to inspire each other. Putting the hijab is merely a symbol. What’s more important to the girls is the way they live their lives as a practicing Muslim. Fashion is just something that these stylish women use to freshen up their wardrobe from shapeless, boring forms of clothing.-TY LIFESTYLE OF LONDON
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FEMINISM: WHY ARE WE GOING BACKWARDS?
Fashion designers can obtain inspiration from almost anywhere, the weirder the better. And needless to say, catwalk trends are massively watered down for high street buyers; but I bet you didn’t know that a lot of mainstream trends originate from the oldest job in the world? Yes, prostitution.
Image one; Kim K’s controversial ‘Break The Internet’’ photo shoot; epitomising female exploitation. Image two; Corsets from The Sex Museum - where I learnt how prostituition has influenced mainstream fashion. Which led me to question whether this really is a positive thing? LIFESTYLE OF LONDON
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know some women find not (sarcasm) to wearing less and less wearing a bra liberating (Miley clothing. For. No. Reason. Cyrus is a big fan of this one); That being said, of course, society but actually on a deeper level has become generally more liberal. what are you saying about Which is arguably, not a good thing? yourself by doing this? Would But in terms of self-expression, I you want your daughter to dress like would argue the desensitisation of that? Do you like the fact that creepy old the sexualisation of one’s self, is men are staring at your boobs instead somewhat dangerous. As wrong as of your face? It can be said that men it is, if you choose to deliberately desire women for sex instead of taking dress in a provocative manner there them seriously as a real person. But are consequences. But I’m in no way women need to know their worth! So, justifying sexual abuse. how have we come to the realisation I’m just simply stating that the that prostitution influences our everyday way you dress can portray certain fashion? connotations about you. Amsterdam, and the awkward but Unfortunately, humans have this very fascinating sex museum. thing called a subconscious. Since We can see the influences through the moment we are born, media, the ages; everything from corsets, advertising and societal influences (as pictured), to knee-high boots (big plant ideas into our subconscious. This, this winter/autumn '15) to tights with plus general ignorance, add a dash of stockings printed on. Bralets, which are history creates ‘’stereotypes’’. Whether a modern adaptation of a corset, are it’s wrong or not, stereotyping and worn casually today – a prime example presumptuous connotations will always of this influence. exist. In regards to the way a woman Most women want to look sexy, and dresses, self-respect and dignity come that’s fine – within reason. It's easy to sit into play. and criticise why we shouldn't dress like To an extent I see the other side prostitutes, but I believe the influence of the argument too. Men can’t be so has got progressively judgemental, nor worse through the should they take years; trickling through advantage of to the mainstream girls who dress in ‘‘It’s widely accepted and causing a a certain way. I’m desensitisation to the not justifying this now to exploit yourself... sexualisation of the behaviour. I would It’s almost like a jungle, female form. just like to get where whoever exposes Why is this not across the point showing progression as much skin as possible that women can but actually doing the dress modestly to – without being completely semi-modestly and opposite, and inciting stagnation within still look stylish. naked – wins.’’ society? The problem is, it Dressing may start off as provocatively started something small out as a symbol of like wearing a rebellion against restrictive societal low cut top. When you wear that certain taboos, for example the emergence of top, you may notice men treating you the mini-skirt in the 1960’s epitomised differently. They stare; they offer to young women's step away from the hold doors for you. They may even restrictive post-war era their parents compliment you and buy you lunch. Why grew up in. Women felt liberated by this, do you think that is? and the first steps towards ‘’Modern Women become addicted to Feminism’’ began. this attention, failing to realise it's Feminism is an awkward ideology. one-dimensional. And it becomes a Many believe that the stereotypical downward spiral from there, because, feminist is an angry, passive-aggressive, they become desensitised to the male-hating young woman – probably sexualisation. Take Kim Kardashian with a short haircut. Actually, I believe as the archetypal example; over the to be a feminist you must want one years she has become more and more common ground: equality for women. outrageous. The media attention has Now that’s established, let’s talk consequently fed her ego, to the point about the sexualisation of women. where she attempted to ‘break the In the 1960’s we had the bra-burning internet’, posing nude with a champagne movement, where women protested for glass balanced on her arse. Not only equal rights by burning bras. However, that but also fully frontal nude shots all that was seemingly acceptable as it over social media. What is left for your was rebellion with a worthy cause. Since husband? Never mind the shame your then, we have massively progressed daughter will feel when she’s old enough
fashion to realise her mother is famous for a tasteless sex tape with a one-hit wonder rapper. On the other hand, it can also be argued that it takes a certain type of personality, which is predisposed to acting in this ‘attention seeking’ manner; known widely as narcissism. These people have an irrational self-obsession and selfish nature. Social media, today, is a big catalyst to encourage narcissism (Kim often uses social media to exploit herself). This competitive nature is 0shown very clearly on Instagram, for example. The fundamental problem is, this is also influencing younger, more impressionable females, and these narcissistic celebrities have more influence than ever before. Especially in a day and age where everything online is so fast-paced, and platforms like Instagram become so dangerously competitive; influence is inevitable. However, I would argue that it's widely accepted now to exploit your self – particularly on social media. It’s almost like a jungle, where whoever exposes as much skin as possible – without being completely naked – wins. No one knows exactly what he or she is aiming to achieve, but they fail to realise the negative consequences their actions are causing. Clearly not every man on this earth is that basic and barbaric (although most are). But, regardless, you may be sending wrong signals out about yourself and people will treat you based on these impressions. I get it, every girl likes attention. But there are boundaries. Are you really willing to risk your respect and dignity and assets that money can’t buy, all for the sake of pretentious attention? -MW
The Sex Museum, Amsterdam, Holland LIFESTYLE OF LONDON
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9 WAYS TO STAY LOOKING FRESH THIS FESTIVE SEASON We all know Christmas means presents, and being in the presence of weird family members, but it also mean drinking a lot. After a few nights of heaving drinking, how can you make sure you’re still looking fabulous the next day (to do it all over again)?
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“make removal as easy as possible”
t+ Drinks, £3.69 for 15
Garnier Micelar Water, £4.99
After a long night, the last thing you might want to do is muster up the effort to wash your face. But sleeping in your makeup can actually cause long-lasting damage. Dr Eric Sweiger explains: “sleeping in makeup causes the breakdown of healthy collagen, which results in fine lines in the skin. Additionally, makeup can clog the pores while you sleep, resulting in the development of acne.”
shampoo is definitely what you need. Opt for one that’s not too harsh on your hair. Dry shampoos not only absorb oil and eliminate any dirt they also work brilliantly at hiding oudor from the night before.
“Never skip a step in your nightly routine.”
Now, we know this step does seem a little harsh, but even if you slap a little bit of night cream on before you pass out, you’ll feel better for it in the morning. Feeling a little worse for wear in the morning? Studies have shown that getting up, having a shower and getting ready will make you feel a whole lot better than camping out in your bedroom all day. And your flatmates will complain a lot less about the stink. The eye area is most likely to away your late night shenanigans, cancel out a lack of sleep and weary eyes with an illuminating eye cream. Upbeat Protein Drink, £1.75
“As much as you don’t want to, always take your make up off!”
We all know makeup wipes are easy, affordable and most the most probable way of taking our makeup “Swap your morning off after one too many glasses of wine, but they really are not coffee for a green tea” the best for your skin. Most are packed We know the first thing you go for, full of alcohol causing irritation to our after a glass of faces, but also not water to cure your removing our makeup “Sleeping in makeup causes desert mouth, is a cup effectively. Beauty of coffee to make expert Zain Shah’s tip the breakdown of healthy you able to function for making life easier collagen, which results in near to normal, but is: “leave cotton wool stop. Drinking too fine lines in the skin.” and micellar water much caffeine will next to your bed only aggravate before you go out, that way when you your hydration levels. Green tea is high come home taking off your makeup will in antioxidants and can give you that be just as easy as using makeup wipes, caffeine kick you’re after. It will also but a lot better for your skin.” provide your body with the vitamins it
“Save your post-party tresses”
Origins No Puffery Eye Cream, £24
Lush Dry SHampoo, £1.25
In the same way alcohol dehydrates your skin, it does your hair too. Dehydration makes hair brittle, weak and more prone to split ends. The best cure his though is prevention. All the hair oil in the world won’t be able to save your hair if you don’t hydrate it from the inside with eating healthily and drinking plenty of water! If you are doing this then comfort your hair after your heavy night with smothering on a hair mask in between shampoo and conditioner. Didn’t have time to wash your hair? A good quality dry
“Don’t forget your good friend water”
Your whole body is dehydrated and craving water after a night out, especially your skin. Dehydrated skin does not necessarily mean dry. It can look oily, dull and dark, too. So slathering on your moisturiser in the morning will not always work. As well as drinking as much water and you can stomach in the morning, try alternating your alcoholic drinks on your night out with water. You, and your body, will thank you in the morning.
“you don’t have to skip the greasy fry up.’ (yay!)
Nutritionist Sara Stanner says eating meat, dairy products and colourful vegetables (like sweet potato and broccoli) will boost your energy levels. She explains that although too much salty and fatty food can aggravate fragile stomachs, they are not to be completely ruled out. Bland, slow-release carbohydrates like toast will sustain your energy levels for longer. Bacon sandwich, anyone? If you can’t quite stomach food, opt for a healthier protein-rich drink. The Upbeat shakes contain protein, rehydrating minerals and calcium. They’re pretty tasty too!
“Don’t cave into your sugary cravings”
Ever woken up with a puffy face? No, you’re not still drunk; your face is actually swollen. According to LiveStrong, sugary drinks mixed with alcohol on your night out can lead to water retention causing your face to swell. Try avoiding them the next day so you’re not asked what allergic reaction you’ve had this time.
may have lost the night before, rather than the temporary energy boost coffee “Sleeping till gives us. But regular green River Island Sleep Mask, £6 tea can sometimes be a little 12pm will not bitter for fragile poor souls, always help” so try a fruit enhanced Alcohol and one. James Dawson, restless sleep founder of are best friends. t+ Drinks, Drinking and dancing says: “after the until 4am can make night before you’ll us miss out on rapid eye movement definitely need your antioxidants (REM) sleep. “This stage of sleep is when rebalancing. A heavy night out the body restores itself, and alcohol will increase oxidative stress can interfere with this.” explains Dr John and radicals in the body, a fruity Shneerson, head of the sleep centre green tea helps to reduce this, at Papworth Hospital in Cambridge. It making you yourself a lot quicker.” can be hard, but try to avoid drinking too They will also naturally satisfy close to bedtime. The cab journey home your sugar craving, fizzy drinks may give your body time a bit of time to or chocolate will only add to your process the alcohol you’ve drunk before unbalanced blood sugar.You can you try to sleep, but maybe avoid the make your own rehydration drink nightcap. Alternatively, a sleep mask may by dissolving a tablespoon of sugar increase the amount of sleep you get by and a salt in a pint of water and sip not letting the painful daylight in. -EB throughout the morning.
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CHRISTMAS MADE EASY
We all love buying, and receiving, presents but what to get someone who has it all? Here’s a quick Christmas guide (minus the standard aftershave and fluffy socks.)
For the girl with too much makeup Make-up London Academy courses
It can be hard to find a present for the girl that has every shade of nude MAC lipstick available to humans, so try giving her the gift of a makeup course! They range from 3 hours to an intensive 10-day course, but she might learn a few new things (and then try them out on you!)
For the girl that loves bloggers Blogsphere magazine
2015 really has been the year for bloggers and vloggers, so what better present for the girl that loves Zoella’s makeup tutorials than a magazine created and edited entirely by bloggers! On it’s seventh issue, this really is one for the coffee table!
For the girl who likes trying something new Aroma Cupcakes
Inspired by delicate flavours from Indian and the Middle East, these cupcakes are a blend of delicate floral notes and warm, fragrant spices. Why not surprise your friend with afternoon tea at their house? All cupcakes can be made gluten free, and they’re just as delicious!
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For the girl with the sweet tooth Sweet Cheesus Cheesecakes
Our taste buds seem to just come alive at Christmas and anything mini mean sin-free, right? Sweet Chessus’ mini cheesecake varieties are perfect for that friend who enjoys the sweeter things in life! And like all good desserts, they come in Oreo flavour too!
For the girl who’s obsessed with nails Nice Nails Baby salon, Clapham
Rather than getting her the newest collection of OPI polishes, treat her to a manicure on you. Nice Nails Baby’s gift cards make the perfect present. Manicure Monday’s mean any manicure for only £10, so you go along too! To, you know, keep her company.
For the girl with all the jewellery Milgio jewellery
Every girl has her statement necklace, or the friendship band she just won’t take off, but if your BFF is obsessed with jewellery try giving something back as well. Miglio and Anna Kennedy Online have collaborated to create a silver plated bracelet embellished with an amethyst coloured Swarovski crystal to raise funds for Autism Awareness.
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SKINCARE REVOLUTION: THE MEDICAL MAKEOVER
From Ancient Egypt women using powdered galena as eye liner to Scientists developing techniques to repair wounded soldiers faces - Science has always been behind beauty. But, now it’s at the forefront of skincare products and it’s here to stay.
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daily skincare routine is a staple part of almost every woman’s life. The bespoke ritual which has been carefully curated, refined and measured to suit skin type, texture and lifestyle denotes the start of each day and indicates the beginning of every evening. It’s a practice which will have taken years to perfect and illustrates every woman’s ability to be their own chemical mixologist, in their homemade beauty lab aka their bathroom. On average, each skincare product can contain anything from 15 to 50 ingredients meaning you could end up applying over 500 chemicals to your skin, a day. Of course, science has always played a huge part behind the scenes in the beauty world with many variations of acids, chemicals and vitamins appearing in products over 10,000 years ago. In terms of makeup, in Ancient Egypt, women used the powdered mineral galena to darken their eyelids and in Greece, women used poisonous lead carbonate to obtain a paler complexion. When Wilhelm Conrad Rentgen discovered the X-ray in 1895, it was soon being used to heal skin ailments and in 1903, a Danish physician, Niels Ryberg Finsen, began using the effect of ultraviolet sunlight on skin tissue. He then worked on injured soldiers returning from war, who often had facial
disfigurements from shrapnel. However, this kind of cosmetic work which worked on a scientific basis was expensive and at the time remained exclusive to doctors and scientists. Medical cosmetics began trickling down to mainstream beauty brands in the ‘90s and now the link between science and beauty is stronger than ever. With consumers being more skincare and health concious than ever, cosmetic science is at its peak and beauty brands are constantly seeking cosmetic science experts over marketing experts. But, with the beauty media world advancing quickly in the ‘90s and big advertising companies taking beauty brands under their wing, the companies began to underestimate the consumer. Big names, fancy packaging and sweet smells teamed with a vague advertising video seemed all that was needed in order to sell a product. Remember the famous L’Oreal Paris hair colourant advert starring Jennifer Aniston? It coined the famous phrase ‘And here comes the science bit... Concentrate.’ It inadvertently suggested that the science aspect of the beauty product would uninterest the consumer. It was patronising to women and showed a poorly executed attempt to show science within a beauty advert. Now look at L’Oreal Paris and any other major beauty brand and ‘the science bit’ is at the forefront of their campaign, with no introduction.
It denotes a massive shift in the way beauty brands operate and the way consumers simply aren’t phased by the words Ceramids, Hyaluronic Acid or even Salicylic Acid. Contributing to the consumers higher awareness and understanding of ingredients is Dr. Phillippa Darbre of the University of Reading, who found that 18 out of 20 breast cancer tissues contained parabens, a commonly found ingredient in skincare and hair products.
“Healthy skin is essential to having beautiful skin and there are simply no short cuts or false advertising.” This has led consumers holding beauty brands to account on a much higher level than ever before, meaning they must evaluate their advertising ways to prevent the consumer feeling patronised and stupid. A modern and luxurious skincare brand leading the cosmetic science way is British brand Aurelia Probiotic Skincare. Founded by Claire Vero, the brand created a skincare range that was scientifically based but still natural and ethically aware whilst simultaneously maintaining luxury and affordability. LIFESTYLE OF LONDON
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Women step into their bathroom as Scientists and the room transforms into a beauty lab as they cocktail their skincare products. The brand has appeared in Vogue and Porter and is a demonstration of cosmetic science becoming a mainstream topic, rather than an unapproachable subject faced by doctors and professional scientists. Another new beauty brand leading the cosmetic science way is REN. Founded just 15 years ago, their goals have always been providing ground-breaking product formulation, the latest hi-tech actives and clinically proven results. Speaking exclusively to Lifestyle of London, skincare expert Daksha Chikhal from REN Skincare told us what it means to them to have chemically based products and how they have to be transparent with the consumer: “Ceramides, Retinoids and Alpha Hydroxy Acids all play a key role in the strength of skin and healthy skin metabolism. We now understand that healthy skin is essential to having beautiful skin and there are simply no shortcuts or fancy advertising. We are very pure like that.” Whether you excelled in science at school or not, when it comes to science in beauty, we are all in our own right walking, talking scientists building chemical concoctions in our bathroom. As informed beauty buyers, we are holding skincare brands to account every day by preventing them getting away with their vague advertising. With cosmetic science now a mainstream game, we cannot wait for another 20 years to see what else is on the market. -HW
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INCASE YOU D I D N ’ T K N O W. . .
Don’t fear if you’re not completely up to speed with the acids, ceramides and vitamins lingo. Here, we break down what ingredients you need to look out for, for your specific skin concerns. If you’re a glow-getter, obsessed with fresh, luminous skin then look out for products which infuse Glycolic acid. It is an exfoliator which will dramatically improve the tone and radiance of your skin. Try, Pixi’s Glow Tonic, £18 (pictured). One of the most common acids, is Salicylic Acid which is important when trying to deal with spots. The acid removes redness and inflammation and is an essential ingredient for anyone battling acne. Try, Superfacialist Mask, £9.99. Ceramides are natural components of the skin and supplementing them via creams is a great route to younger skin. Try, La Source Hand Therapy, £15. Finally, Hyaluronic Acid is best for retaining moisture and will keep the face firm and tight as the skin naturally lacks water as we get older. Try, L’Oreal Paris Revitalift Filler Renew Hyaluronic Replumping Serum, £ 14.99.
GOOD HAIR DAY, EVERYDAY Good Hair Day or ghd, as they are more commonly known, have been the leading brand in the hair styling industry since they began. Created over fifteen years ago, we take a look back at the rise, the fall and their return to the top.
ghd Eclipse range launched in 2010
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ounded in Leeds in 2001, ghd creators Martin Penny, Gary Douglas and Robert Powell collaborated to buy the rights to a hair straightening iron from a South Korean inventor. From this, ghd was born. Unlike most start-ups, the company did not need to advertise until two years after they launched as their success was passed through word of mouth and ny 2003, could be found in most UK salons. With predicted sales of around 3 or £4 million, the UK proved it was more than ready for this kind of product after sales boasting over £12 million in their first two years, surpassing the original forecast. After just three years of production, ghd made waves in the North American market in 2004 with great success showing its product was viable on both sides of the Atlantic, generating worldwide sales of £37 million. The Jemella Group, who owned LIFESTYLE OF LONDON
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Creative director for ghd, Zoe Irwin
the ghd brand was bought by Lloyds Development Capital for £55 million in 2006 who then sold it 11 months later to Montagu Private Equity for £160 million. After changing hands so many times and being taken over by people with different visions for the brand, ghd’s profits began to drop in 2008 with brand messages being muddled and consumers becoming confused with what was once a gleaming reputation. In an attempt to bring the brand back to its roots, Paul Stoneham took over as chief executive in 2009 with the vision of making ghd more than just a straightener and bringing the customer back to the forefront. When the original creators were bought out of the brand in 2007, problems began to arise. Instead of being a salon exclusive brand with a premium price tag, which is what ghd set out to be and also what consumers recognised it as, ghd straighteners began popping up in high street stores like Argos. This moved the brand away from being salon
The launch of ghd curve in Manchester
only, losing its previous selling point and exclusivity, previously associated with ghd. The black market of ‘knock off’ hair straighteners also gave the company big problems. Counterfeit styling tools being sold in the name of ghd for significantly cheaper and with faulty components causing potentially lethal problems including electrocution, burns and damage to users hair. To eradicate this hugely damaging problem, ghd now work closely alongside trading standards, customs, the police and the Government to stop the distribution and circulation of fake ghd’s from factories in Asia that were solely producing counterfeit goods. These factories have subsequently been shut down and ghd now have holograms on all of their goods to make it much harder for copies to be produced. Before the revamp of technology by Paul Stoneham, it used to take companies four to six weeks to examine and reproduce fake ghd’s. However, due to the overhaul
beauty
ghd Creative Director, Kenna working on the Live ghd shoot with Elle magazine
it now takes nearly a year for them to recreate the goods. Also working closely with internet providers, ghd close down over 1000 websites a year that sell fake electrical items claiming to be the real thing in attempt to stop the circulation. As his main goal for some time was to stop counterfeit goods being sold to consumers believing them to be ghd’s, Stoneham set up a research laboratory in Cambridge where new technologies would be created and revolutionise the hair straightening world, with patents belonging to ghd. This created 50 new patents and the prospect of 20 new products to be released in the following years. Some of these technologies were introduced into the ghd Eclipse, which were released in 2013 dubbed to be the ‘Rolls Royce’ of the electrical styling world. The new technology meant the ‘Eclipse’ would heat up to 185 degrees, said to be the optimum styling temperature and keep to that heat throughout each session. The new, patented ‘tri-zone’ technology is made up of three sensors on each styling plate to ensure there is no heat loss during use and the temperature is kept at a constant for the same styling in every stroke. Aerogel insulation is also installed
onto the handles of the ghd for cool use throughout, no matter how long they are used for so they don’t burn your hands during use. Sleep mode is also a vital element across ghd stylers, not just the Eclipse. After 30 minutes without use the straighteners will turn themselves off to reduce the risk of catching fire if they are left on a flammable surface or haven’t been turned off. Six years since his takeover, Paul Stoneham vowed to introduce more products and electrical tools into the ghd family and enter realms never before explored. This is a promise he has kept. During his first four successful years at the brand, he doubled profits from £15 million to over £31 million, leading to interest from British private equity firm, Lion Capital who bought the company in 2013 for over £300 million. As well as proving himself in the numbers department, Stoneham has also rebuilt the once gleaming relationship ghd had with salons, mainly due to their salon exclusive clause. These relationships being reformed are vital for ghd to carry on growing as a brand. Allowing customers of chosen ghd stockist salons to recreate the looks made by their hairdressers brings more people into the
exclusive family of men and women who want the best for their hair. Stoneham does however still allow the tools to be sold in premium retailers like John Lewis, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols. As well as the overhaul of relationships and rebuilding and recreating the once loved ghd, Paul Stoneham created the ‘Curve range’. Even though ghd straighteners are more than capable of creating curls and waves, he wanted to make the process easier with tools that were more suited to curling with the reputation of ghd that they could deliver a high quality range to match their other tools. This worldwide brand has not only been successful in delivering first class hair care to their customers, but from the profits of their Breast Cancer range, have donated over £2.5 million to Breakthrough Breast Cancer and other women’s charities. For the near future, continuous research is on-going to develop new products for the ghd family to grow and strengthen their range. For now, and for the foreseeable future, ghd is the leading brand in hair styling all over the world because no matter how old or young, male or female, every day should be a Good Hair Day. -GF LIFESTYLE OF LONDON
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