Denitia Odigie page 80
LIBERATED STRANDS SUMMER 2014 ISSUE
8
Gypsy in the City: Ada Rojas
28 Model Moves: Zoe Allamby
LIBERATED STRANDS STAFF S/S 2014:
Chime
Angela Clay Editor in Chief
Design:
Contributors:
Robin Josey
Editor in Chief, Angela Clay Photo by Daniel Jay
Hello!
Summer is in full swing! Things are heating up across the nation and the same is true at Liberated Strands Magazine. I am so elated for this issue and the future of our brand. In this issue we are excited to feature Chime Edwards. She has a successful YouTube channel, Hair Crush. Her interview gives a glimpse into her new endeavor modeling, and what it’s like to have a successful channel on YouTube. She shares her natural hair journey with us and gives insightful tips to keep forging on and growing healthy hair.
of the blog, Gypsy in the City. Ada speaks candidly about her triumphs as a Latina paving her own way through life and her business goals. She speaks about her road to getting her hair healthy and why hair is color blind. In closing, there are so many stories, features, interviews and articles that were a labor of love in this issue.
Read on and support these people who are reaching out in their businesses to fill voids within the natural hair community. There are so many different needs, and there is plenty of room for success. Do you have ideas for stories? Tell us what’s in your What about the science behind our hair? heart. We are ready to listen. Enjoy this We’ve got you covered. Are you dealing issue, and don’t forget to head over to our with trying to figure out your porosity website www.liberatedstrands.com and level? Debating about if it’s really necessary join our email list for latest updates. to trim your hair? How true are essential oils in aide to hair growth? These questions Much Love, are answered in this issue. You do not want to miss out! I was also able to catch up Editor in Chief with the talented Ada Rojas, the founder
Angie
Gypsy in the City ADA ROJAS
LS: We we’re so impressed looking at your blog. We can see major things happening for you in the present and even bigger in the near future. So we really want to thank you for taking the time out of your busy schedule to embrace this interview. AR: Thank you so much. I have been working hard these last couple of years, and your acknowledgement really means a lot to me. It is a pleasure to be featured in Liberated Strands. LS: It seems as women become more successful they begin to run into negative comments and others who feel like they do not deserve a piece of the success pie. What advice can you give women who are trying to reach out and start their own businesses and excel past the naysayers? AR: I don’t think women hear this enough, but I believe that one of the most important things you can ever do is trust your vision. The things that you are passionate about are not random. They are your calling, and you have to have faith in yourself and your vision in order to persevere past the naysayers. As an entrepreneur, you can’t expect
people to understand your grind when God didn’t give them your vision. It’s yours for a reason, own it! At times it may be hard when things are not falling together the way you expected, but you have to hold enough to know that you will get there, and everything is going to work out. A lot of times those hurdles are necessary in order to build you up. You will never be able to fully enjoy the good if you have never experienced the bad. Also, it is very important to surround yourself with people that love you and will support you in all you do. Always remember though, you must be your biggest fan and supporter in order to succeed. Your supporters feed off your energy, and you have to make sure that you believe in you too. LS: Tell us a story that inspired you to keep going and not look back? AR: In May 2012, my boyfriend of two years passed away unexpectedly. We didn’t see it coming and were devastated when
we found out that he committed suicide. It has been the most devastating thing that I have ever had to deal with, and it took me a long time to openly talk about it. It is probably the worse thing that any person could ever experience, a heartache that will never fully go away. That summer I decided to take a break from blogging and all of my social media accounts. It was a very dark time in my life, and I just wanted to be alone. I didn’t have the energy or passion to do anything at all and many times all I wanted to do was lay in bed. All of this was very unusual behavior for me, as most of those that know me know that I am a very lively soul. Over time I started to realize that Art couldn’t possibly be resting in peace knowing that I was not chasing
He was my biggest fan and number one supporter. I owe a huge part of my life to him because I am everything I am today because he loved me. I knew in my heart that in order for him to be at ease I had to be happy, and my happiness comes and dreams.
Although my life is far from perfect, my heart is content knowing that I am honoring Art’s memory by living a life with purpose. He is my biggest inspiration to keep moving forward. The best way I can describe my new outlook on life is by this quote from one of my favorite singers, Alicia Keys: “And the day came when the risk it took to remain tight and closed in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to bloom. This is the element of freedom.” LS: What are your suggestions to embolden more Latinas to get involved with the natural hair community and having a larger voice online? AR: Education! So many Latinas are so poorly educated on natural hair and don’t know the beauty that exists in their natural hair texture. A lot of this has to do with the fact that, all of our lives, we are taught that straight hair is ideal and the importance of weekly salon visits to keep up with one’s appearance. Curly, wavy, and nappy hair has always been associated with being unprofessional and ugly, and if you decide to wear your hair in its
natural state you are often regarded me till this day. From experience, being educated on my hair has really helped a lot with my hair journey and embracing what I once knew as “Pelo
I think if more Latinas were educated on natural hair care and maintenance it would be easier for them not only to understand their hair, but also it will allow them to be more comfortable within the natural hair community. The natural hair amongst the Latina community, but now it is time to act on it. We need to help each other love and learn our hair. One of my goals this year is to include more natural hair post on my blog in order to educate Latinas natural hair is an essential part of who I am and it is important for me to share that with my readers. Most importantly, I feel like the natural hair community in general needs to stop looking at race altogether and focus on the hair. After all, we have way more in
common than we do different and its time that we embrace that. It’s not a racial thing; it’s a hair thing! LS: Please share your natural hair journey with us. AR: Most of my life I wore my hair in its natural state, using whatever like mousse and gels that would make my hair extra crunchy. I would only straighten my hair for special occasions here and there because I never really had an issue with my hair or its texture. I understood that there was no way I could magically alter it and I was not fond of relaxers. I embraced my natural hair and dealt with it up until I arrived in Miami to attend college. In college, my roommate introduced me to the Chi Flat Iron, and my life was never the same. I would straighten my hair every single week because I noticed that everyone liked my hair better that way. One time, when I attempted to wear my curly hair again, a friend told me I should just keep it straight because my curls made me look so “Spanish.”
At the time I was also a red-head my hair monthly to keep up with the color. Eventually the chemicals and constant heat resulted in extensive damage to my hair, and when I attempted to wear it in its natural state it looked horrible. I couldn’t believe what I had done to my hair. After many failed attempts to curl my hair, I decided to dye it black at least to stop some of the damage. I cut it into a short bob and continued to straighten my hair. When I moved back to New York at the end of 2009, I met Lisa, my curly-haired Dominican coworker who thought I was crazy for sitting under the
hair in its natural state all my life, I had an entire different outlook and approach to it. Oh, how I wish I was as educated on my hair back then as I am now, but you live and you learn, right? In this very moment, I am more in love with my hair than ever and having gone through so much to get my curls back. It really makes me appreciate my hair for all that it is. I can’t believe I was so foolish to especially after growing up natural! My natural hair journey taught me to be less self-conscious and embrace my inner beauty. After all, my outer beauty shines solely
hot summer to straighten my hair. Lisa was extremely educated on the subject of natural hair and convinced me to stop straightening my hair. She told me what products to buy and what Youtube videos to watch so that I could learn how to properly take care of my hair again and nurture it back to its original state.
that feeling will always be beautiful!
It was a long road to healthy curls but I learned so much about myself and my hair along the way, it truly was a journey. Although I wore my
AR: I usually switch up my hair products as the seasons change because of the weather and its effects on my hair but what I keep
From personal growth and experience I can truly say that the beauty is in the journey, enjoy it! LS: Can you list some of your staple products for your hair?
on rotation is always usually: Miss Jessie’s Leave in Condish Pillow Soft Curls Jelly Soft Curls Devacurl’s One Condition Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie Deep Treatment Mask Agadir Argan Oil Keratin Protein Moisture Masque Agadir Argan Oil Hair Treatment Pure Extra Virgin Coconut Oil Kinky Curly Curling Custard Eco Style Olive Oil Gel As I am Cowash Conditioner Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Treat Shampoo & Conditioner L’Oreal Total Repair 5 Restoring Conditioner LS: Are you crushing on any new hair, make-up or fashion goods at the moment? AR: Over the years I have realized the importance of skincare and how vital it is especially when you are application. I recently stumbled upon Orico, an organic skincare line from London, and I am obsessed! Their skincare line is designed for the everyday demands urban living places on our skin like pollution, air-
conditioning, heating and stress. I suffer from dry skin, and Orico’s SuperRico Vitamin Rich Face Oil is heaven-sent! It leaves my skin silky smooth, and the Aromatherapy blend of essential oils is extremely soothing. Not to mention it is Anti-Aging as well. I also love their StreetWise Gentle Antioxidant Face Wash and their Skin Brunch Kukui Rejuvenating Mask. My skin has never been better. LS: Gypsy In The City would like to encourage women to…
of your dreams and live the life you’ve always envisioned! Cherish and celebrate your differences and remember to feed your inner beauty, for it radiates in your outer beauty. Most importantly, at all time embrace the unfamiliar and always remember to welcome change with open arms like a true Gypsy. If a determined, and gifted, there is practically nothing she can’t do! Follow Ada Rojas: Gypsyinthecity.com
Po what?
THE BENEFITS OF HAIR POROSITY
Hair porosity 101 porosity is: the condition that the hair cuticle is in concerning its ability to absorb and hold onto moisture. There are three main types that most people fall into: low (a compact,
regimen. This is especially true for curly-haired girls, as this hair type tends to frizz up whenever it is not properly moisturized and healthy. If
that knows when to hold or release
introduce moisture and trap it into your hair, then you can keep it at its healthiest.
There is a fourth, which is spotty porosity (a cuticle that has been damaged and has different porosities
The way to determine your hair’s porosity is by examining the condition your hair cuticle is in. There are a few different tests and symptoms lists you can use to
widely recognized, but it can occur in some cases. Knowledge of the way that your hair absorbs and holds onto moisture is crucial for perfecting your hair care
these test to see what type of hair porosity you have. Once you’ve determined this, you can move on to treating your hair in accordance with its porosity.
Testing & diagnosis for hair porosity The Spray Bottle Test
The Water Test
Section off a portion of your hair and pin/clip the rest away. Take a spray
Performing this test only requires a few strands of your hair, a glass of water, and some patience on your
strands. If the water sits on top of, or just runs down the strands in beads, you have low porosity. If the water quickly soaks into the hair, you have high porosity. If the water sits on top, but disappears after a few moments, then you have normal porosity If your hair does a bit of both, then you could have spotty porosity.
The Strand Test Carefully section off a very small group of hair strands. Next, take the
your hair makes, the more porous your hair is. Low porosity hair will allow
water full and allow it to reach room temperature. After that, pluck a few strands from four different areas of your head, and then place them on the surface of the water. Be sure that the hair is touching the water, but don’t submerge it. Wait 2-4 min and then go to check the results.
the time is over, you have low porosity. If it sank to the bottom all the way, you have high porosity. If it is in the process of sinking then, you have normal porosity. If some of the hair is above and some is above the surface, or if you push it down and it sinks quickly, then you may have spotty porosity.
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The Symptom Checklist Spotty Porosity Hair: Hair has a mixture all symptoms mentioned above. When attempting different segments of rough patches on your hair all the way up, smooth then rough, then smooth, then rough. During the water test, your hair may until push it down. At which point it sinks rather quickly. Concerning the spray bottle test, you may have some parts of your hair where the water seemed to go in easily, and other portions where the water just runs right off.
High Porosity Hair: Your hair absorbs products and water very easily, almost instantly Your hair dries too quickly Your hair consistently looks and feels dry, even after just shampooing, conditioning it Your hair responds well to protein treatments Your hair tangles easily and is often frizzy
Low Porosity Hair: It takes a moment for your hair to get wet when you are trying to wash it Products and even penetrative natural oils tend to just sit on top of your hair rather than being absorbed in Your hair does not take chemical treatments (relaxers, perms, dyes than normal for them to work Your hair takes a long time to dry Your hair does not respond well to protein treatments
Normal Porosity Hair:
manage and doesn’t usually give you any trouble concerning moisturizing it. It accepts and retains moisture well.
Hair porosity treaments High Porosity
Low Porosity
This type of hair is tricky because the cuticle is open the vast majority of the time. It doesn’t know when to close up on its own. High porosity hair loses moisture as quickly as it receives it. Since the hair cuticle doesn’t close up on its own, then whatever goes in goes right back out! If you have this type of hair, then it’s up to you to experiment
Low porosity hair is also referred to as resistant hair. This is a healthy type of porosity to have; it just takes a bit of conscientious effort to moisturize properly. If you have his type of porosity, then the trick is getting your cuticles to open up so that moisture can go in as it needs to.
your hair cuticle to close up once you moisturize it. You can do this by using cold water to rinse out conditioner, and by using apple cider vinegar or even regular after shampooing and conditioning.
This can generally be achieved with using heat. Heat softens and prompts the hair cuticle to open up, just like steam opens up your facial pores. If you have this porosity type, use warm water in your hair care routine.
Heavy cream moisturizers, butters and
Deep conditionings under a hooded dryer or steamer are excellent things to do if you have low porosity hair. Concerning products, lightweight moisturizers and lighter natural oils
deep conditioning or daily use will help you greatly in keeping your hair cuticle shut and trapping the moisture in.
should do the trick. You can deep condition with the natural oils or leave them in, whatever works best.
as well.
Spotty Porosity
Normal Porosity
In order to best treat this type of hair, you’ll need to do quite a bit of experimentation. For example: try doing a protein treatment once a month or every two months, and also deep condition under a hooded dryer or steamer once a month to see how your hair responds.
Those blessed with normal hair porosity have an easy time moisturizing and maintaining the proper moisture level for their hair. Normal porosity hair knows when to take in moisture and how to hold onto it as well.
Since there are different levels of porosity all over your head, the best thing you can do is pay careful attention to what happens to your hair as you try new things, writing down what happens as you go along. Keeping a journal of what does and doesn’t work will help tremendously with remembering what is or isn’t ok for your hair, especially concerning products. Read over your writing often, so that you can mix and match treatments until you reach a working solution.
You can experiment with a variety of moisturizing methods, using hot or cold temperatures. Your hair shouldn’t have issues adapting to any methods you choose.
Model Moves ZOE ALLAMBY By Angela Clay
Zoe Allamby, a fashion model hailing from the Caribbean, now calls Miami home. Zoe has worked for A-listers like Rachel Roy and Kimora Lee-Simons and has also been featured on the Latin America Project Runway Season Finale. In an exclusive interview with LS, Zoe shares her experiences on her modeling career and the highs and lows of her natural journey.
LS: Where are you from?
Latin America Season Finale.
ZA: I’m from 166 square miles of pure love and smiles a.k.a. Barbados!
LS: How long have you been natural?
LS: Tell us about your modeling career and how you got started? ZA: When I was like 8 years old an Italian children’s fashion magazine came to shoot their spread in Barbados, and I happened to be one of the chosen models. That led to me watching reruns of America’s Next Top Model daily and enlisting in modeling workshops. I did a couple of shows and shoots in Barbados in my teen years, but it wasn’t until I moved to Miami that I got signed to an agency. From there I juggled attending college and modeling. My schedule was tiring, but it was fun. LS: Please list some your big projects that you have been involved in. ZA: Some of the notable designers I’ve worked for are Kimora Lee Simons, Rachel Roy, Nanette Lepore, Missoni and Nicole Miller. I was also in the Project Runway
ZA: I’ve been natural for about three and a half years. LS: Can you tell us about some of the highs and lows when it comes to your natural hair journey? ZA: I tell people all the time that there’s no better feeling than to run my fingers through my hair and feel all the coils, kinks and no tracks. There is something very satisfying about embracing what God has given me and being able to inspire others to do the same. A low would be my being so busy that I sometimes put my deep treatments on the back burner. Natural hair requires time and patience. I’m getting better though. LS: What are your favorite products? ZA: I like Coconut Oil, Raw Shea Butter, and Cantu Leave-In Conditioner.
PHOTO CREDIT: ADRIAN RICHARDS, 2014.
LS: Any advice to naturals who are trying to break into modeling? ZA: Don’t let the stereotypical ideal of a model sway your acceptance of your natural hair. Sometimes clients will love your natural curls and others will ask you to flat iron it. Whatever the request, at the end of the day embrace those kinks. Countless times mine have made me stick out from all the other models that have looked the same and I guarantee it will do the same for you. LS: What is the secret to great style? ZA: I think style is such a personal and subjective thing, so it would have to be wearing whatever feels right to you. It’s perfectly ok to pave your own path. Follow Zoe: Caribchic.com/about
Must or Bust
TRIMMING NATURAL HAIR
:
Generally, as a rule of thumb, you should examine your ends at least every 3 months or things in the list below, as they are signs that you might need a trim: You have an excessive amount of single strand knots; Your ends no longer curl up, even when you have made sure that the cuticle is closed (meaning even balancing your hair’s pH with an ACV rinse doesn’t get them to Upon examining your strands, you can see that they are split; You hair lacks body and shape;
Placing your hair in two-strand twists is the best way to seek out damaged ends that need to be cut off. You can start with an old worn-out hairstyle or freshly washed hair, it’s up to you. Just be sure to work in small sections as you use this method. 1. Use water to mist the small section of hair that you are going to work with; 2. Gently, and carefully detangle the small section of hair; 3. Part the hair into two-strand twists down the length, all the way down; 4. feel smooth and uniform until you get to the part that needs to be cut. The hair that needs to be cut will feel more rough and coarse. You may even be able to see where to cut the twist. There may be thin, straggling hairs hanging down at the bottom that just don’t match the rest; 5. Cut the hair from the bottom of the twist where you feel or see the change in consistency and texture, then proceed to the next section of hair. This can be a little time consuming, so set aside a weekend day or an evening where you’ll be able to take your time. With a little patience you’ll be able to rid yourself of all those pesky, damaged ends that’ve been ruining your gorgeous hairstyles. Your hair will thank you by growing longer, being more manageable and looking better than ever!
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Vlogger’s Delight: Spotlight on YouTube Vloggers
Vlogger’s Spotlight: Jessica Pettway JessicaPettway on YouTube
LS: What is your secret style weapon?
LS: Could you give us some background on why you decided to become natural? JP: I wanted a change. A new style. I’ve done everything to my hair, except cut it completely off. Plus, spending $75 every two weeks was becoming annoying. Being natural was the best decision I’ve made, both
amazing! LS: Great style is… JP: When an individual knows who they are and owns it. Nothing screams great style more than individuality! LS: Advice for seasoned naturals… JP: Embrace newly naturals or transitioners. Not everyone is going to do the big chop. Not everyone is going to transition. Every journey is different, so make sure to respect and include them all. LS: Your YouTube channel is new and fresh what are some of your goals for your channel? JP: I just want to inspire. That’s all. I love sharing information about beauty and fashion!
LS: How do you feel about others asking to touch natural hair? JP: It really depends on the circumstance. I wouldn’t scold someone for asking to touch my hair. But I wouldn’t just allow a stranger to touch my hair either! That’s weird! I think people ask out of curiosity, so you can use that moment to educate them. LS: Advice for seasoned naturals… JP: Embrace newly naturals or transitioners. Not everyone is going to do the big chop. Not everyone is going to transition. Every journey is different, so make sure to respect and include them all. Follow: JessicaPettway on YouTube
Vlogger’s Spotlight: Annisa Limara AnnisaLimara on YouTube
LS: How long have you been natural? AL: I have been natural since fall 2005 and made the decision to do so because of major hair breakage and thinning from too many relaxers and frequent permanent colors from my senior year in high school. Looking back I had no idea it was “going natural,” I just considered myself going “cold turkey” because my hair had went from being thick and medium to long length to severely damaged. I decided to big chop in 2012 due to heat damage (I kept my hair
it wasn’t a positive experience but now it’s the best thing that could have ever happened to my hair! LS: What made you decide to start a YouTube channel? AL: I had wanted to start one for some time but didn’t get the courage until recently when I started receiving numerous questions and comments about my hair on Instagram and from friends and family. I knew that YouTube would provide the perfect outlet to express myself and my brand to those that were interested and to also connect with other likeminded individuals.
LS: Can you share some of the highs and lows of having your own channel? AL: The lows initially came from the technical aspect as far as learning what type of editing software to use and my computer at this magnitude so it was very frustrating and can be very time consuming. However, the highs are that you get to put out whatever content you are passionate about and I get to interact with my subscribers and other channels on YouTube. LS: Your daily routine is? AL: I work from home, so I normally get up and work without worrying about my hair. However, i normally put grapeseed oil in it and pick it out, and I’m ready to go. Sometimes if it’s a little dry I spray it with some Carol’s Daughter Tui Leave In Conditioner to refresh it. LS: The last thing that you splurged on for your hair was… AL: I went to Naturals in the City in Memphis last year and bought hair products from several vendors as well as brought home samples so I spent well over what I intended. I’m still
bought and that was almost 7 months ago! LS: What is your hair care philosophy? AL: Make your wash days count! The dryer the hair, the more products and time you spend so take the time to deep condition on wash days to obtain low maintenance hair throughout the rest of the week. LS: Your nighttime beauty regimen is… AL: It’s pretty simple. I apply castor oil and sleep freely or will stretch my hair with banding method and wrap with silk scarf. LS: Advice for others who are trying to start their own YouTube channel… AL: Make sure you are passionate and knowledgeable about your content and research all the things you will starting so it will be an easy transition and to also plan ahead! Editing can take hours so give yourself enough lessen the pressure. Follow: AnnisaLimara on YouTube
Vlogger’s Spotlight: Joy Spears LS: How long have you been natural? JS: I returned back to my natural hair 2 years and 9 months ago. LS: Did you BC or Transition? How was the experience for either? JS: I transitioned with Senegalese twists for three months and then did the big chop. My big chop was unplanned, but an enjoyable and liberating experience. At the time I decided to transition back to my natural hair I was practicing yoga regularly. Yoga helped me to release the attachment to my relaxed hair, so when I decided to do the big chop I was mentally prepared for the experience. LS: What are some products that you are coveting at the moment? JS: The products that I’m using now look very different from those that I use in the warmer months because
PHOTO CREDITS: DAMION REID
here on the East Coast we’re currently in the icy grips of winter. For my winter hair care regimen some essentials are: Karen’s Body Beautiful Sweet Ambrosia, Koils By Nature Nourishing Hair and Body Butter, Jamaican Black Castor Oil, peppermint essential oil and the Huetiful Hair Steamer. In the warmer months I primarily wear my hair in a wash and go. My go to products are: Kinky Curly Knot Today and Kinky Curly Curling moisturized, multi-day wash and gos with these two products.
LS: Why do you think that the natural hair movement can take a militant turn at times? JS: I think that the natural hair movement can take a militant turn at times because it’s human nature to band together to feel a sense of unity. In the quest for that sense of belonging different factions, or teams as they’re normally referred to, begin to develop, which can create contention within the community. LS: Can you give us a cheat sheet on
how to make natural hair ready for spring/summer weather? JS: First, I would suggest getting a trim and a deep conditioning treatment to make your hair spring ready. If you live in colder climates your strands have been subjected to harsh winds, indoor heating and friction from hats, scarves and jackets. A trim and a deep conditioning treatment will help to clear away winter wear and tear on your strands and give it a much needed infusion of moisture. Secondly, I’d suggest incorporating seasonal fruits and vegetables into your diet and exercising. Consuming whole foods and exercising regularly is just as important as, if not more important than, the lotions and potions you put onto your hair. Third, I’d recommend organizing your product stash. Swap out your heavier winter products for lighter spring products. This will make the hair styling process easier if all of your spring products are readily accessible. Finally, if you’re a woman that loves versatility, I’d recommend getting a new cut, style or color for the season.
Springtime is a time of growth and renewal making it the perfect season to try out a new look. LS: What are some of the hair tools you use for your natural hair? JS: I keep my regimen very simple, but one tool I absolutely love to use is my Ouidad Double Detangler comb.
as a space to educate, empower and inspire women of color. My blog content caters to the woman of color as a complete being. New posts are published every Tuesday and Thursday at 7:00 p.m. EST if you’re interested in checking it encourage young girls and women of color to love themselves from the inside out. This will be accomplished through teaching self-acceptance, increasing self-esteem and cultivating a sense of sisterhood with the ultimate goal of increasing
Follow:
Vlogger’s Spotlight: Ty Crable LS: When did you start Vlogging? TY: I started Vlogging in February of 2013. LS: What are some of the highs and lows of having a YouTube Channel? TY: The highs of having a YT channel is meeting a TON of people that instantly seems like a second family. You create a bond over something that was once frowned upon…natural hair. One can learn a TON of different hair techniques and styles from other YouTubers or their subscribers. The lows of having a YT channel is not being able to put out all of the requested videos all in one week. I wish I had more time to make more videos. Now that my hair is growing out and my hairstyles are lasting longer, I’m not washing everyday like before, so it’s harder to put the videos out as much as I used to. LS: Could you give advice to those who are thinking about starting their own channel?
a little awkward, but just keep in mind you’re only talking to a camera. LOL. Now, hundreds of people will see you, but they’re all very supportive and friendly. LS: Are you a product junkie? If so how do you keep your products organized? If not tell us how you keep from becoming a PJ? TY: Yes ma’am, I am a PJ. I’m “technically” in rehab until the spring World Natural Hair Show, but there is one conditioner that I HAVE to buy once the company starts selling it. LOL. PJ problems. I currently have my products in what used to be my linen shelf is for items that I have never used. The second shelf is stylers. The third shelf is conditioners. The fourth shelf has my poos and gels.
“PG” or “Product Graveyard”. The PG consists of items that I have tried and my hair did not like AT ALL! PG items will be given to family members to try, swapped out, or donated to my local linen closest are containers of rollers.
I also am currently using my armoire to store my hair products. The TV sits on top of it. This is why I’m in rehab. LOL LS: Your hair goals for 2014? TY: My hair goal for 2014 is just to have healthy hair and continue to learn my hair. This natural journey is new to me, and I’m enjoying learning everything there is to know about my hair. Follow:
CF: My YouTube channel name is channel simply to document my hair journey and keep up with my progress. LS: What has been your most rewarding experience with your channel?
Vlogger’s Spotlight: Charmain Faulk Marquita83 on YouTube
LS: How long have you been natural? CF: I have been fully natural right now
LS: Tell us the name of your YouTube channel? Why did you decide to create a YouTube channel?
CF: The most rewarding experience is that reaching out to others that really are in tuned on what I have to say or show I really am grateful and appreciative that there are people out there that like to see what I have to say and what I have to show. It really touches my heart that someone asks me a question about hair and I am just showing my experience with my hair. It is cool to know that I am also helping others as I share my experiences throughout my hair journey. LS: If you had to cut your hair all off and start over what would you do differently? CF: If I had to start all over, I would probably get my hair cut professionally with someone I feel comfortable with. Not saying that I did a bad job with cutting my hair but just to see if it would turn out differently than when I Big Chopped my hair. LS: Can you give some advice for
naturals who are at the beginning stage of their natural journey and are at that stage of “relax and go back or keep going?” CF: I would like to say just keep going embrace what you have, try not to compare your hair to others for example if you have a hair crush that is ok to have one, but at the same time don’t envy what someone else have, your hair is just is great as the next one. Be patient with your hair and don’t give up. Everyone has started from some point to get to the next point. Don’t get caught up on length your hair will grow when it is time. Overall just be patient and you will see a big difference. Don’t give up!!! LS: What are some products that you are loving on right now? CF: Products that I love right now is Alikay naturals the Cowash,Cantu Shea butter for natural hair cowash and hair lotion, Shea Yogurt Moisturizer, growth oil honey and Sage conditioner and more most of the products that I have used from Alikay naturals have been working for my hair, OBIA natural Hair Care is
another line that I love the products Curl hydration spray the twist whip butter, and the shampoo bars that I have used so far from her are great. I love Shea moisture restorative Conditioner, Anunaturals Just water Spray, Karen’s Body Beautiful Sweet Ambrosia love it, coconut oil, EVOO, EVCO Brahmi Amla Oil,…there are many more but right now these are the basic ones that I love I will be here all day telling you lol, I just love trying new products!! LS: The thing that has surprised you the most with being natural is? CF: The thing that surprised me the most since I been natural was that I have different textures in my hair, I didn’t know my hair was changing after I did the Big Chop it was changing before my eyes. I’m like wow what is going on so I had to go through that change and my hair is still changing. I’m like what is going on. Also I didn’t know that I would have a somewhat hard time detangling my hair. Follow: Marquita83
on YouTube
COVER STORY
Chime SHINES By Robin Josey
LIBREATED STRANDS SUMMER 2014
LS: Your motto on your blog is, “Natural hair care. Style. Spirituality.” Do these mean separate things to you, or are they all a part of who Chime is? CE: Yes, of course. I love natural hair and style, but they’re trivial compared to spirituality. Our relationship with God is the most important thing. Period.
community, what’s the best piece of advice you can give a natural? CE: Patience! If you are taking care of your hair properly, it will grow. Focusing on every centimeter that grows will drive you cray cray. Enjoy your hair at every length, and before you know it you’ll have Mufassa’s mane. LS: What are your staple products?
LS: There are so many styles out there - afrobeatnik, new natural, naptural - how would you describe your style? Or do you think it’s even necessary to do so? CE: I really don’t think it’s necessary to define my style. It’s cool for those who do. I like to switch my hair up, and I hate being put into a box. I don’t like to put labels on myself. I’m free. My hair is free. One day I might rock a picked out ‘fro and the next day a bun or twists. I like to choose my hairstyle based on my outfit or mood. LS: With hair length and retention a focus within the natural hair
CE: Giovanni’s Leave-In Conditioner and shea butter. Faves! I’ve been using Giovanni’s for 5 years. It really makes my hair feel moisturized and soft. Shea butter is a great sealant. It keep the moisture locked in and helps repair dry hair. LS: Shrinkage? Love it, hate it, on good terms? CE: I think we’re on good terms because I don’t have a lot of it, but to all those women who have massive shrinkage, I respect your struggle, sista. It can be difficult to deal with, but it is manageable when you use stretching techniques.
LS: What is your natural hair routine or regimen and how long did it take you to attain your current length? CE: I usually wash my hair every week or week and a half. I deep condition every time I wash my hair and twist it or pin curl it. I usually re-do the style at night by using a moisturizer and oil and sleep in a satin bonnet. I’ve been completely natural for 5 years. I’ve cut it 3-4 times over the years. Once I had waist length hair, and I got bored. It’s impossible to achieve a lot of cute styles when your hair is that long. Plus, you lose volume with long hair and I wanted a big ‘fro so I kept cutting until it reached the length it is now. LS: We recently saw that you straightened your hair. How was that experience for you? CE: I was really nervous about it because I haven’t straightened my hair in 6 or 7 years. I’m really fearful of heat damage, and I didn’t want to harm my hair in any way. I also didn’t want to straighten my hair only for it to stay straight for a day and then have poodle hair,
COVER STORY
so when I saw a demonstration of the Texture Manageability System I decided to try it out. It was a great experience. My hair was gorge. My hair has never looked that good straight; not even when I had a relaxer. LS: What did you learn, and would you do it again? CE: I would definitely use it again. I learned you have to make decisions based on what is best for you and your hair. What works for you may not work for someone else and vice versa. LS: How can you protect your hair before heat styling? CE: Use a heat protectant and make sure the flat iron’s heat setting isn’t up too high. Focus on the application of the heat because that is what causes the damage. LS: Fashion is also a love of yours, we see. Do you feel there is a progression with being natural and embracing more fashion forward trends?
CE: I’ve always loved fashion, so it just goes hand-in-hand to me, especially for individuals who are freer with their style and enjoy looking different. I look at natural hair as the ultimate accessory. What accessory can be better than your crown? LS: Do you see the fashion industry becoming more inclusive of women of color, especially with so many of us returning to natural? CE: Yes, I feel many designers have already embraced women of color and natural hair. They are usually on the cutting edge of style and innovative thinkers so they can appreciate the unique elegance of natural tresses. There can definitely be more of us included shows. I think they understand Black women’s role as a consumer and advertise to appeal to us as well. LS: What do you see as trends for the spring and Summer 2014? CE: Orange is definitely a color for the seasons. It will be seen in both
apparel and make-up. Dope off the shoulder tops as well as dresses will be everywhere. My personal favorite is stylish socks with modest heels. LS: So, do you get people who touch your hair without asking? CE: I don’t mind people touching my hair without asking because sometimes I see gorgeous hair and realize I’m touching it before I ask all the time. Natural hair is so amazing that it sometimes draws you in, and you just have to touch it. I just don’t like it when someone is pretending to feel my hair when in actuality they are searching for tracks. LS: What is one thing you would like the natural hair community to do better? CE: I wish some naturals would stop criticizing others for not being “natural enough” or outcasting some naturals because their hair is a curly texture and not kinky enough. We should continue to focus on encouraging
one another and include anyone who is attempting to become a part of what many refer to as a sisterhood. LS: Any advice for a new natural hair blogger who’s just starting out? CE: Blog about a topic that you want to learn more about or a topic you love. Post consistently, and always be true to yourself. Most importantly, if you ever get stressed or overwhelmed with haters look to God for guidance. That’s what he’s here for.
Follow Chime a.k.a. HairCrush: Chimeedwards.com Youtube.com/user/HairCrush
Hair Behavior 101 GET RID OF PESKY HAIR GUNK
Understanding hair behavior’s basics: what you hear all the time: “Not everyone’s hair is the same.” Therefore, it does not behave the same way to various products. Case in point: Shea Butter is all the rave across the web, and yes, it is very nutritious to the hair and will promote growth. Yet, raw shea butter does not penetrate my hair, it forms little white balls that just sit back and nap on my strands. So many naturalistas would sing a Shea Butter Anthem, if there was one, but although this is a wonderful natural product, not all hair types respond well, which is o.k. and normal.
want after using a product? This indicates that your hair enjoys the ingredient/ ingredients. Assuming that the ingredient/ingredients are natural, there are
Let’s compare the Shea Butter vs. Almond Butter:
Raw Shea Butter Heavy Thick Dry alone Naturally rich in nutrients When oil/oils of choice are added, Luxurious shine and style Light nutty smell
Raw Almond Butter Lighter Natural oil feel Not very thick No need to add oil to experience shine and great style Light nutty smell
This brief comparison is to show how these butters are not the same, and it may be safe to say they will not behave the same. I love shea butter and use products with shea butter added. However, with raw shea butter, not quite the same story. For most who are natural, it is trial and error to determine what products work and are good for your hair. Various textures, thicknesses, changes, and levels of porosity determine if a hair type will accept or reject
a product. When mentioning hair type in this article, it does not refer to the categories of types 3 or 4. It only means the hair that grows from your scalp, which reacts to what is put in it. Everyone’s hair is exclusive. There are instances where naturalistas can share in common a hair type for one reason or two. Subsequently, upon applying various products, there will be reasons
The major characteristics of hair behavior: Hair that rejects a product is not misbehaving. It is letting you know that the particular product does not work for it. So do not force product on your hair because of what you hear others say it does for them. Listen to what your hair says to you. Here is a note: If the product instructions say a dime-size amount, then only use a dime-size amount, especially in the beginning. If later you have following instructions a few times. Hair may go limp if a product is too heavy or oily. Frizz may occur if a product adds an excessive amount of moisture. Moisture is a lifeline to length retention, growth and overall hair health, but hair can be over fed ingredients. Hair will become dry if certain ingredients/products are introduced to it. Unmanageablility and resistance to styling can last until a deep treatment is performed after putting a particular product in the hair. Why paying attention to hair behavior is worth it: When learning your hair, it becomes easier to determine that a product or ingredients are too thick, too oily, too drying or even too moisturizing. You will with a product or that you will be ready for the red carpet with the best curl
Take your time and do not become lost in the world of products and other curly girls’ curls. What you see as gunk in your hair is just its way of showing the need for less or something different. Get to know how your hair behaves, and give it reasons to show off.
Vintage Vibe SHAYLA JAMERSON
Follow Shayla:
Naturally Talented:
DENITIA ODIGIE
The Music
said, “You can do it. If you’re hungry,
When we began talking with Denitia,
talented Denitia understands that passion is the greatest motivator for a successful life.
few years of life, she already knew she wanted to pursue music. “I started when I was 9,” Denitia said, “writing songs and performing them, but around 12, I really discovered myself, learning to play the guitar. I would sing into the antenna on top of my TV. Rockin’ out as if I were on stage. That’s when I really felt that passion.” The self-taught performer began learning on the family’s acoustic guitar until her parents gifted her with an electric one for Christmas. Every song she listened to on the radio was a new opportunity to improve upon her musical skills. When we asked about what it was like teaching herself to play the guitar, Denitia said, “I started listening to songs on the radio and just started learning them. I looked up notes on the internet, so it was just me and that computer.” Her passion was and still is very evident, and she doesn’t shy away from hard work. We asked her about the level of dedication it took to advance as a musician, and Denitia
Her passion was inspired early on by country music giants like Reba McEntire, George Straight, and skills as often as she could. Later in life, her parents introduced her to Smokey Robinson, Al Green, and The Temptations. Her musical style today is a mixture of all the artists she’s drawn inspiration from. “I love Corrine Bailey Rae. I really, really dig her stuff. I had a John Legend obsession for a little while, and I also like Sade. I am into Sade hardcore because she’s modern, contemporary and classic to me.” Denitia shared with us that she laid down her musician David Arnold, and she has been recording ever since. She said, “It was live. There was no digital
Previous page: White Sweater and Jewelry Credit by King Onye. This page: Black Leather and Jewelry by Alkhemi 9.
editing or anything like that. From there, things took off and I’ve gotten to do more and more each year.” Denitia’s long-term goals for her music are already in the works. She’s touring the world, makings albums on her own and collaborating with other artists, like her partner, Sene. She told us that she hopes to someday work and perform with a few of her dream artists, such as Sade and Drake. For aspiring singers and songwriters out there, we asked Denitia if she had any advice to give. She had this to say: “Just Do it. The only thing holding you back is you. You are the only one that knows your dreams, what goes on in your mind and heart. You have to follow it like a compass.”
Now, Onto the Hair! Not only does Denitia have a beautiful voice, she also has beautiful, natural hair. She has been natural for over 12 years, and she had a lot to share with us about her natural journey; starting with her big chop in 2001.
We asked her for some of the details behind her decision to go natural and she said, “I’d been relaxing my hair since I was a kid. When I went to college, I thought to myself, ‘why am I putting all these chemicals so close to my brain?’ My hair was breaking off, and I always had hair problems. So I decided to just chop my stuff off and just go super natural. I’m half Nigerian, so I wanted to really get in touch with who I really am and how I was put on this earth.” Although Denitia is not very involved in the whole “hair typing” system, she told us that her curls are kinky, with very tight curls, and it works best when she sets it in a style. She said, “I moisturize it, put it in double strand twists, and when I take them out, it’s something. Other than that, it’s extra natural, curling up tight, hiding from the world!” While Denitia does a great job coming up with styles on her own, she did say that she looks to other naturalistas for ideas. We asked her “Meshell Ndegeochello; she had
some really cute short natural hair styles, but I think she’s rocking the super short look right now. Jill Scott, Erykah Badu, Jada Pinkett are also some other ladies that I check out for style inspiration.”
my face. I really love the versatility of it.”
As naturals, we here at Liberated Strands magazine know that natural hair can take time and patience. So we were curious about how Denitia handles life on the road with her natural hair. She had this to say, “It
a musician. She answered, ‘Who and what I am, and how I came here comes out in my hair.
Whenever I go overseas my hair does a totally different thing than when I’m home. The weather and the humidity play a big part in what my hair feels like doing. It’s never a problem though because I just love it so much. Being natural for so long, I really value the meaning of it and how it makes me feel more in touch with my essence.” Denitia said her favorite thing about her hair is its versatility. We asked her to tell us a bit about it and she said, “I like that if I set it, it can be really tall and big, and if I rock the wet look, it’s super curly and close to
One of the last things we discussed with Denitia was the role that having natural hair has had in
It’s the packaging that I came in and it’s what God gave me to work with. It inspires me to stay true to who I am in life and my music. It inspires me to always explore all of my natural gifts, like singing and music.” So there you have it folks. Natural hair is bold, beautiful, real, and it have. Denitia is a perfect example of that fact. To learn more about Denitia and to hear her music, you links there to check out her solo projects as well as collaboration with other artists.. Follow Denitia: Denitia.com
Revive Your Skin! IN 3 EASY STEPS!
First, gather your supplies. You will need: Three bowls, mixing spoons, brown sugar, Epsom salt or sea salt, oils of your choice, and coffee grounds.
Step 1:
The Face
Brown sugar is the perfect way to exfoliate the face. It works well, but it’s softer than white sugar. Put a little of the sugar in a bowl. You won’t need much because it will only be for a small area. Try a tablespoon or two. Next, mix it with a little oil.
My favorite is jojoba oil. Choose one that works well with your skin type. Mix the brown sugar and oil well. When they are well blended, gently rub onto your face in a circular motion. Finish by rinsing well. Make sure to clean off all of the sugar mixture.
What is more luxurious than a coffee scrub? Coffee scrubs are a great way to exfoliate, and they have the added bonus of helping with cellulite due to the caffeine. Take a half cup of coffee grounds (used or unused) and combine with a half cup of brown sugar. Mix together well and then add in your oil. You can make the mixture thicker by adding a little oil or thinner by adding more. Add the oil a little at a time until you reach your desired texture. Use in the shower and then rinse well. Be careful because the oil can make the shower slippery.
Step 3:
The Feet
Step 2:
The Body
This may be the area that needs the most help. For feet, I recommend using salt rather than sugar because it is little rougher. It’ll be great for the heels. Put a half cup of Epsom salt or sea salt into a bowl. Mix with your choice of oil. I prefer olive oil for feet. Follow the same method as the coffee scrub and add small amounts of oil until you reach the desired texture. To make this special, you can add a few drops of peppermint essential oil. Rub your feet gently with the mixture. Pay special attention to the rough areas. Once you have fully exfoliated both feet, rinse well and moisturize.
And that’s it! These recipes are easy to make, easy on the budget, and your skin will look and feel like new. Make it even more fun by inviting a friend over and mixing your scrubs together.
Besitos From Abroad! GONATURALSPAIN
that includes needs in general. The Spanish press only speaks of us to say something negative or these images, we want to convey to Spain and the rest of the world that there are also black people and beautiful women with a long future ahead in Spain. Another reason is, until we started to make this collection of images, different blogs just thrived on American images to motivate women in Spain, but the images looked like us. We want to show us too. LS: We see that you are really big on getting natural ladies together to take group pictures, what is your reason? AP: I am glad that you asked, because it was not easy to do this work. We are not a company; we are only two dreamers, trying to do a dream. This project is not only geared toward women wanting to return to natural, it is also for the Spanish society. The reason why I bring natural ladies together is to start a natural hair revolution in Spain. There is still much to do in the black community
We believe in the freedom to express ourselves. Our hair is beautiful, and each head of hair is different. We want to show the difference in colors, textures and lengths. Many women in Spain straighten their hair because they do not have information on being natural. When I was 14 years old, I straightened my hair and continued for years after. I really did not know much about my natural hair. Today, I know about my natural hair and want to encourage and support
PHOTO CREDIT: GONATURALSPAIN.COM
others in their journey to natural. I love being natural and will stay natural. LS: How do you care for your hair, and what products do you use? AP: My hair care is quite simple. Currently, I have very little free time, so I usually wear a wash-and-go, knot sometimes. I wash my hair every two or three days each week with a sulfate-free shampoo. I also use a moisturizing mask and spray with a little olive oil. To get more curling cream. Color shampoo is what colors my hair. LS: What is your go-to style or favorite style that you like to wear? AP: Umm, my favorite style when coil. Now that it is longer, I do Bantu knots. But seriously, I am so busy all the time, so I do not spend a lot of time on my hair. After work I spend time on my blog, then eat dinner and just spend time with my love, so.... there is no time to do much to my hair.
LS: Does the weather in Spain affect natural hairstyles? If yes, then how? AP: Hahahaha.... Yeah! I think the weather affects our hair wherever we are. But it is true that, according to the type of texture and the country, it will affect styles more or less. For example, I live in Northern Spain, in the city of A Coru単a, where it rains most days during the winter. So it costs a little more to keep the styles as there is a large percentage of moisture in the air. However, when I go to Madrid to visit my family, as the climate is more dry, I notice that my curls hold longer, so I moisturize more often. LS: What about natural hair products in Spain? Are there many? AP: Unfortunately, there are not many, and it is hard to get them shipped here because the taxes on them are so high. Another problem is customs; depending upon where the products are coming from, customs will not let them into Spain. There are very few natural hair products. Alvaro and I are trying to work to get more natural hair products into Spain. It is really hard; it would be nice to go into a
store and buy different products and to know that we can use various brands. GNS hosts events, we are on Facebook and Twitter, and have a Spanish blog gonaturalspain. com/blog/ and an English website gonaturalspain.com. We must have a presence to convey our message of freedom, self-acceptance, equality, creativity, and Spain’s need for natural hair products. Hopefully, this exposure will bring makers of natural hair products to Spain. LS: Do you intend to visit the U.S. with GoNaturalSpain? AP: Yes, of course. We’d love to, love to! We have a pending visit to many other friends that we have met through GNS and a long visit to NYC. We hope to go, although, we
LS: What would you like the readers to know about GoNaturalSpain? AP: I would like people to know that GNS is a platform of motivation and inspiration to return to natural. Not only that, it is also a movement to reassert and defend the artistic
and creative part of the very young black community in Spain. Through GNS, we want to convey a lifestyle in which people feel free to be, wherever they may be, and more than ever it is important not to lose hope and go for the dreams. Many people really have bad things happening to them in Spain, with the great economic crisis that we have. Millions of families have lost everything, and we pray for friends, family and ourselves, of course. We think, if all you need in this life is based on love, then what happens in the world? Why is there not much more love? I take this opportunity to send a lot of kisses and hugs to all girls from the USA who support us every day and for this invitation. Thank you so much. Follow GoNaturalSpain: Gonaturalspain.com
We love it!
HAPPY NAPPY HONEY
LS: How did you come up with the name? HNH: Instantly when my decision became my reality, I thought Nappy hair wasn’t cute. I went back and forth about the texture being so blind sighted by America’s polished look for so long. I then said whatsoever the name was Nappy would be incorporated to shed light on individuals who thought Nappy was actually bad as I did. LS: How long have you been natural? HNH: Technically we are all born 14 and returned to my natural roots 3 years ago. LS: How do you know what to mix to make such quality products? HNH: I research what each product is supposed to do for either skin or body and then utilize myself and family members as guinea pigs lol. We then later create and format a larger recipe for launching to consumers. LS: Were there any challenges developing your brand?
HNH: I need help all the time and being employed full-time and running a business is not the most fun. I encounter time management issues daily. I am always thinking of ways to develop better use of our time. LS: Can you give us some of your goals for HNH? HNH: We are expecting huge things. We are ready to transition into our storefront phase really soon. We are also looking into more charity events locally. I am super excited about our growth and our team. Stay tuned via social networking for updates. LS: Can you give some advice for those Naturals who want to start their own hair care line? HNH: Growth happens fast! mentor. Most importantly always remember the customer is always right! Follow Happy Nappy Honey: Happynappyhoney.com
Valienca is the owner of Happy Nappy Honey. Right: Photos of Happy Nappy Honey’s collecion of products.
We love it!
D. BUCHANAN COLLECTION
and having to wear a suit and tie for the majority of the day. When I was home I would dress how I want and felt comfortable of course the dress corporate dress code is different. I wanted to give value to the suit and tie I wear every day. I started to look in to color psychology in the business world and learned that different colors in business have different meanings. From that point on I wanted to create a line of men accessories that not only complimented and enhanced ones style but also had meaning as to why they were wearing it. LS: What made you decide to create a line of bow ties?
LS: Tell us about your business. What was your inspiration behind the Dennis Buchanan fashion line? DB: I work in men’s fashion focusing on men accessories such as ties, bowties, belts and watches. My inspiration for my collection comes from working in corporate America
DB: I created my line of bow ties to add a little more to my collection. Only a few dare to rock a bow tie but it is really good way to change wardrobe for the day. I also felt it was time to introduce a product that women could wear. Women in bow ties can be professional and sexy at the same time. You can never have just one bow tie, it’s like an addiction you always need more, its “Bow Tie Fever”. Make sure you visit my website www.dbuchanancollection.
com to see all my new bow ties and sign up for “Bow Tie Fever”. Receive special offers every month and updates on new products. LS: Many women are embarking on their own natural hair journey, what are your reactions to this new lifestyle? DB: I embrace the new lifestyle, I always thought natural was beautiful and if it is making women feel more
I am only one man whose view may not change, the view of many, who don’t agree with braids or dreads in the workplace no matter what the reason. Image is very important and unfortunately that hairstyle can change your image in a positive or negative way. For many years Walt Disney enforced a facial-hair ban on his employees. The company began inching back from its ban on facial to allow mustaches.
thing no matter her hair style. LS: There has been many dialogues about professional hairstyles in the workplace concerning both African American women and men, what is your take on braids, dreads etc. in the workplace? Please elaborate. DB: I personally don’t feel braids or dreads for men should be worn in the workplace. I am aware that is part of our culture and heritage, as African American men, but I don’t think a lot of men wear braids or dreads for those reasons. If they do then I don’t see an issue with wearing them in the workplace.
LS: You have been in the fashion profession for some time now what advice could you give other people who entrepreneurship? How do you get past the naysayers? DB: My advice would be to have a passion for what you’re doing, don’t be afraid to ask for help and learn from others in your industry. You can never fail if you refuse to quit so don’t give up and learn something new every day would be my advice. Follow D. Buchanan Collection: Dbuchanancollection.com
Gray No More? NEEM OIL RUMORED TO REVERSE GRAYING HAIR
The Basics: 1. Neem oil is one of the oldest medicines in existence (dating all the way back to older times, the entire plant was used, but nowadays we mainly use the pods from the plant and cold press the oil from them. 2. It is antibacterial, antifungal, antiseptic, antiviral, and anti-parasitic, so it’s used to treat a variety of conditions such as dandruff and head lice, athlete’s foot, pesticide, acne, insect repellent and much more. It’s generally used topically, as large doses are toxic, but under the care of an experienced physician it can be used internally. 3. It contains many essential fatty acids, Vitamin E, and has regenerative and moisturizing properties. 4. It’s rumored to reverse early graying hair. Feel free to poke around the web or read books if you want further information a few of the basics, because to go into depth on the matter would take quite some time. Now, let’s move on to the subject of neem oil and its effectiveness on hair. I should warn you before we go any further, that neem oil is stinky. I researched what people’s opinions were concerning the combination of scents that create the scent of neem oil, and I found that most people agree it’s a combination of peanut
and garlic. So be advised, you never want to use more than a few drops of it…for rotten bottle or anything…it’s supposed to smell that way. I’ve used neem oil in the following ways: 1. As a scalp treatment before a co-wash or shampoo. 2. As an added ingredient in my homemade hair butter. 3. As an added ingredient in my homemade moisture mist. All three of these produced great results, but not all of them are preferable. There are also a few things to know that can make your experience with neem oil more pleasant. Allow me to elaborate: As a scalp treatment, neem oil is very effective. I used it to treat my scalp to a nice, deep-cleaning session and also as a means of treating my itchy scalp. I took the neem oil dropper from the bottle and squeezed drops directly on my scalp all over my head. Just one drop here and there in the areas where I felt I needed it. After I left it on for about 10 minutes, and then proceeded with washing my hair. I noticed, when I rinsed my hair, that a lot more dirty water came out as I rinsed. I think that the neem oil did a really great job at loosening and removing any buildup that was resting on my scalp. I also noticed, the next day and the following week, that my scalp was no longer sore or itchy. I didn’t like the smell when doing this treatment, but I do think it was very effective. Done twice monthly, it makes a tremendous difference. Using the neem oil as an added ingredient in my hair butter was a bit trickier. I followed my regular procedure (which includes melting down raw shea butter in a double boiler, adding in my favorite natural oils, and then whipping it back up into a up the butter, I noticed that I had perhaps put too much neem oil in. The smell was very strong, so I added in a few drops of lavender essential oil, and
voila! I’ve found that lavender and peppermint are two good, strong scents for covering up the smell of neem oil. So if you’re using it as a leave-in treatment, you might want to have these essential oils on hand too. The results of the neem oil in my hair butter were undeniable. My hair was softer and retained moisture better. There was no longer a need for me to re-moisturize and seal every night. I could go three nights in a row before re-sealing. That’s pretty good for this dry West Texas weather! The neem oil as an added ingredient in my homemade moisture mist is, by far, my favorite way to apply it to my hair; so quick and easy. I just add a few drops of it to my homemade mist and follow that with some drops of lavender or peppermint, and it’s ready! I actually found that I prefer this to using the neem oil in my hair butter. In a sprayable form, the neem oil can be more easily spread across all my hair, so it coats every strand. It coats and cleanses my hair very well. As for the last mentioned bonus of neem oil? The rumor is true! Neem oil drastically reduced my number of premature graying hairs. I have had gray hairs at the crown seemed to be multiplying, but I had accepted it and just moved on. My husband said, “Hey, a lot of your grays are gone. I can’t see as many as before.” I didn’t believe notice it. I have fewer gray hairs, almost none, two months down the road still using neem oil. I recommend you give it a try!
NATURAL GIRL SPOTLIGHT SUMMER 2014
NGS: Isis Treadwell, Maryland
LS: How long have you been natural? IT: I have been natural for 2 years. LS: What is your go to hair essential and regimen? IT: I use Herbal Essence Conditioners, Argan Oil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Shea Moisture Coconut Hibiscus Curl & Style Milk. My Regimen for cleansing my hair is co-washing. Co-washing means when you do not use shampoo to wash your hair you use conditioner. When I co-wash, I use Hello Hydration by Garnier Fructis. After I co-wash, I apply Hello Hydration or Herbal Essence conditioner and detangle. Once my hair is detangled, I rinse the conditioner out. For a deep treatment, I put a generous amount of olive oil in my hair, put a plastic cap on for about 30 minutes to an
a leave-in conditioner or styling cream. The leave-in/styling creams I use are Curls Cream Blure by Curls and Shea Moisture Coconut
Hibiscus Curl & Style Milk. For more hold, I may use Cantu Shea Butter Leave- in Conditioning Repair Cream or Curling Cream by Cantu Shea Butter. I apply these products by sections, for example, if I am doing a twist out, I will take the section that I want to twist, apply to that section and then twist. LS: The key to growing healthy hair is‌ IT: Making sure my hair is moisturized. I spritz with water and use a moisturizer. I also make sure that my scalp is oiled and hair is clean. Another thing is to trim hair when you feel it is needed. If your brittle, or split, it is time for a trim. LS: Your advice to the curl friends out there in curl land is: IT: My advice to those curly girls out there is to love and embrace your hair. Don’t let anyone discourage you not to rock those beautiful curls. Let your hair down and shake those curls out and be beautiful.
LS: How long have you been natural?
I cut off my relaxed hair after transitioning for 5 months. I have been natural ever since. I recently did another big chop on December 12, 2013. This time I donated my hair to “Locks of Love� because it was not chemically processed. LS: How many times have you big chopped (BC)? SC: I did the big chop 5 times in my
NGS:
Saleemah Cartwright, Owner of Hydratherma Natural
because I wanted the Jeri curl and they had to cut my hair off to 1 inch in order for me to get one. Lol. LS: Tell us about your product line Hydratherma Naturals. SC: The Hydratherma Naturals line focuses on balancing the moisture and protein levels in the hair. While working as a licensed cosmetologist, I noticed that when the hair was well-balanced, the hair would protein would result in breakage.
Many of my clients, however, did not know how to achieve this balance so I wanted to develop a line that would take the guess work out of keeping the hair balanced. I tried many products on my hair and the hair of my clients. Most products would result in too much moisture or protein overload in the hair. So after several years of combining many of the hair care ingredients that I absolutely loved, I was able to design a natural-based hair care collection that provides the perfect balance of moisture and protein levels. I wanted to create an effective solution and a simple hair care regimen that my clients could easily follow. LS: What are the three most important elements of your products? SC: The primary reason for starting the line was to help others reach their healthy hair goals. So this is the most important element for us. Creating user friendly products. Balancing the moisture and protein levels in the hair can be a bit tricky, so we created our products to take the “guess work” out of deciding
on how much moisture or protein that the hair needs. Our products are very rich in ceramides. These are substances found in particular oils that keep the cuticle layer very strong. This will result in overall healthier hair. LS: What would one do to maintain healthy hair? SC: I believe that healthy hair practices along with healthy hair products will keep the hair in its best shape. Not overusing heat, keeping split ends trimmed, and maintaining a balance of moisture and protein are key factors. LS: Could you please leave some encouraging words for those who are debating between “to big chop or not to big chop”? SC: If you have been thinking of doing the big chop…….Go for it!!!! Many people may like it and some people will not but you have to “do you!” Do what makes you happy. “ Follow Hydratherma Naturals: HealthyHairJourney.com
NGS: Mecca Freeman, Oakland, California Photo Credit: Curtis Jermany MooD-ology Photography
LS: How long have you been natural?
LS: Has being natural been different than having relaxed hair? MF: Being natural is no different than having relaxed hair because you still have to take care of it. The myth is that if your hair is natural automatically it’s healthy. My style hasn’t changed, but style choice because I wear my hair as my crown. When I had relaxed hair and or wore weaves nobody asked me if they could touch my hair or if I could wash it. LS: How is the natural hair community in California? MF: There is a huge natural hair community in California. Especially being in the Bay Area, we have quite a few natural hair salons that cater to us natural sistas. LS: If you had $100 what products would you splurge on? MF: $100 would go a long way with me. I am pretty frugal when it comes
to doing my hair, and I stick to a few products that I know work. I would buy Paul Mitchell’s shampoo and conditioner with tea tree oil. I love the way it makes my scalp feel. I buy the salon size, and it’s about $15-$20 dollars each. It lasts me a very long time because I only wash my hair every 4-6 weeks LS: If a person is thinking of taking the natural hair journey what advice would you give them? MF: The best advice I give to people thinking about considering going natural is I tell them to just do it! I let them know how liberating a big chop feels. I also advise them to love their hair in every phase and that you will have some good days, and you will have some bad days. But that’s what pretty scarfs and hats are for! LS: Tell us your hair regimen. MF: Basically I wash and deep condition my hair every 4-6 weeks. Then, I twist my hair and saturate it with a twisting wax or gel. I twist my edges daily and tie my hair up at night.
we are slightly behind the US, but gradually women and men are becoming more and more aware of being “natural.� We have plenty of room for naturalistas in the UK to break through and educate those who seek help with their hair. LS: Tell us about your business, GOCURLS. JN: I decided to start GoCurls during a time in my life when I just didn’t have any desire to
NGS: Jodie Nelson, Owner of Go Curls
a dream of mine and neither was going to University. I contemplated and realized that the debt I would get in for an education could be the same amount of debt I could get in for the launch of an amazing,
LS: How long have you been natural? JN: I am currently transitioning since 2012, what a journey! I am about halfway through before I am
LS: What is the natural hair community like in the UK?
what drove to me to work on Go Curls. The business is still in its very infantile stages and has yet to launch globally. I and the team are in the process of launching some really exciting natural products for curly hair - No Alcohol, No
JN: The natural hair community is natural. You can follow us on
Instagram @GoCurls to watch our journey as we attempt to take on the hair care industry! LS: What is your hair care regimen? JN: I wash my hair maybe twice a month by shampooing with Trichomania by Lush. I normally deep condition and co wash once a week, I then oil my hair with Coconut and Grapeseed oil, and this normally keeps my curls for the duration of the week. If my hair starts to get a little dry, I spritz with an oil-based spritz and do protective styles at night. To be honest, I really enjoy wearing my hair combed out. It’s low maintenance and keeps my hair in a much better condition. LS: Any advice for women who live in areas where products are not readily available? Online: Amazon, Amazon, Amazon! Look out for natural businesses online, where the products are easily accessible. You can also price match and often get free samples to try before you buy!
Talk to your friends: Share your products with your friends - if you’re like me you are a product junkie. The habit can become quite expensive, so at the start of each month I and my friend switch products (make sure your friend good way of minimizing cost whilst exploring the product market. Make your own: Search the internet for DIY hair products. Bloggers and Vloggers are all over this trend at the moment! It’s an inexpensive way of getting good results, and most of the ingredients are kitchen staples. Ask Family: If you are lucky enough to have family in different parts of the world – ask them! I have family members in New York who annually send over the hair products which I just cannot better method of doing this as the shipping fees can become quite costly.
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