28881156 the nomads of the balkans

Page 66

THE NOMADS OF THE BALKANS

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extremity stands that of Little St Mary's, Stamaria atsean'ika. To the south on a ridge cut off from the rest of the village by a deep ravine is the church of St Elijah, Aigl'a, below which on the is that of St Athanasius, Ayiu Athanase. Before proceeding to describe in detail anything connected with Samarina, let us first take a general view of the village.

other side of the ravine

The most convenient place of Great St Mary's (Plate

to begin

XIV

i).

is

the Pade of the church

The Pade

is

a large green

on the south side of the church, opposite to which is the principal Greek school, where there is a small library of old editions of classical authors bequeathed by a former schoolmaster. In the centre of the green is a row of lofty poplars which in the summer afford a pleasant shade for the classes held out of doors. To the east the edge of the green is enclosed by a low stone wall covered on top with short rough planks, a favourite place to sit and talk in the evening or on Sunday morning after church. Looking down into the valley from the edge of the green we see several mills both for grinding corn and for washing the woollen fabrics made in the village. Above these, as also all round the outskirts, is a network of meadows, where hay or clover is grown. Above them are a few houses with gardens dotted with plum, cherry and apple trees. If we turn our eyes further afield we can survey the wooded height of

Ghumara

and the long see on

it

to our right, or to our

ridge that leads

from

it

left

the Morminde

to Samarina.

We

can

our road from Ghrevena, and keen eyes will pick But let us

out what muleteers or families are coming up.

walk through the

village.

We

turn to the west and make on our right

for the principal entrance to the green leaving

behind the campanile of the church the large tall house of the Besh family, one of the landmarks of the village. In the same corner is the Shoput di la Stamaria, the conduit of St Mary. Samarina possesses some fifteen or more similar conduits in different quarters, so that the inhabitants never have to go far for water. To most of the conduits as with this one, the water is brought in wooden pipes carved out of pine trunks from springs on the hill side above. All along the course of the pipe line are wooden traps to facilitate


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