The News Sun – October 6, 2013

Page 27

HOMES TO OWN •

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2013

FEATURE HOME DEKALB COUNTY

kpcnews.com

D3

FEATURE HOME DEKALB COUNTY

PHOTO CONTRIBUTED

This beautiful Delagrange one-owner home is in Bridgewater. The street is currently a dead end with a vacant lot next to the house. A large deck overlooks the backyard. There are beautiful hickory floors in the foyer, the main bedroom and the main bathroom. The main bedroom has a trayed ceiling, and the main bathroom has a garden tub and double sinks. There is a gas fireplace in the living room. The open stairway upstairs overlooks the living room. This house comes with stainless steel appliances, and the basement has a 15-by-20 finished family room with the remainder of the basement ready to be finished. This house is minimally decorated, just waiting for a new owner to add personal touches. There is an open house today, Oct. 6, from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m.

PHOTO CONTRIBUTED

Your search for the perfect country home is over. Don’t miss this charming three-bedroom, two-bathroom home nestled on a large two-plus-acre lot, ideal for raising horses or having your own mini-farm. The house has been totally remodeled and is move-in ready. This house is complete with a deluxe, fenced, horse pasture, a 70-by-40 barn and a swimming pool. Call to schedule your private showing today.

Beautiful family home in Auburn

The perfect country home

ADDRESS: 1125 N. Dewey, Auburn

HEATING: Gas forced-air

ADDRESS: 2523 C.R. 41, Waterloo

HEATING: LP

SUBDIVISION: Bridgewater

CENTRAL AIR: Yes

SUBDIVISION: N/A

CENTRAL AIR: Yes

SIZE: 1,920 square feet

STYLE: Two-story

SIZE: 1,540 square feet

STYLE: Ranch

BEDROOMS: Three

GARAGE: 22-by-26 attached

BEDROOMS: Three

GARAGE: No

BATHROOMS: Two-and-a-half

SCHOOLS: DeKalb Central School Corp.

BATHROOMS: Two

SCHOOLS: DeKalb Central,

PRICE: $214,900

DIRECTIONS: Take 7th Street east to Dewey

PRICE: $134,900

Street, go north on Dewey to property.

YEAR BUILT: 2006

YEAR BUILT: 1925

Waterloo Elementary

DIRECTIONS: From U.S. 6 go north to C.R. 24 (Rope Street) to C.R. 41. The property is located on the corner of 41 and 24.

Ryan Jernigan

Andy Jagoda 508 S. Grandstaff Auburn, IN 46706

Lic #AU10700095

308 S. Main St., Auburn, IN

260-572-6490

260-908-1412

www.jerniganauctions.com

This offbeat raspberry is worth growing BY LEE REICH The Associated Press

When I really want to impress a visitor to my garden, I offer a taste of Fallgold raspberries. Many raspberries taste good, especially when picked dead ripe and popped into your mouth, but Fallgold is perhaps the tenderest and sweetest raspberry around. Here is a berry that you’ll never see in a supermarket; it’s too fragile to travel much further than arm’s length. Fallgold berries also have an unusual appearance. Their pale yellow, blushed orange color seems to speak to their sweetness and tenderness, and also probably helps hide the fruit from birds. As its name indicates, Fallgold bears fruit in the fall. In this, it’s not unique. There are a number of so-called “fallbearing” raspberries. These varieties begin their fall crop (it actually begins in late summer) starting at the tips of new canes, with fruit continuing to ripen down the canes until stopped by freezing temperatures.

Fallbearing raspberries are sometimes called everbearing raspberries, although they actually bear only two crops each season. The first, in midsummer, is borne lower on canes that grew the previous season, the ones that started bearing near their tips the previous late summer and fall. Knowing where and when these raspberries fruit tells you how to prune them. Easiest is just to cut the whole planting to the ground early each winter. This method sacrifices the summer crop but avoids any problems from winter cold or hungry deer. It also cuts down on the chances of disease, not that raspberries are so plagued by diseases. However, it seems a shame to choose that easier pruning route for Fallgold. Why? Because if you let it bear two crops a season, you’re forced to suffer only a short hiatus — usually only a couple of weeks — between the end of the summer crop and the beginning of the second crop. You get berries

from midsummer right into autumn. Pruning for two crops is not all that difficult. In winter or right after the summer crop finishes, cut down to the ground every cane that bore a summer crop. You can recognize these canes because they show their age with peeling bark. In winter, go over the planting and cut to the ground enough younger canes so that those that are left are a few inches apart and grow in a swathe no wider than 12 inches. Selectively remove the thinnest ones. With Fallgold grown for two crops each season, there’s still usually no need to worry about winter cold damage on those canes that remain. Despite its beauty, sweetness and tenderness, Fallgold is a tough plant. Don’t fret too much about deer damage either: Deer aren’t all that fond of raspberry canes, and AP Fallgold will compensate for any canes that are eaten with a This Sept. 23 photo shows a Fallgold raspberry on a brick wall in subsequent, larger late summer New York City. Fallgold’s name speaks out yet another one of the and fall crop. plant’s qualities: It bears in the fall.

Cut back diseased foliage, but prune perennials later If a person were to take a look at my flowerbeds, they would immediately know that perennials are my absolute favorite. My beds are loaded with grasses, evergreens, ground covers and flowers. I especially like the fact that many of them reproduce and spread which gives me the opportunity to share my bounty of perennials with others. I like to leave some of my perennials standing during the winter months rather than cutting them down. Some perennials have rather attractive foliage or rather what is left of it after the cold weather has set in. Some also have seed heads that are a

source of food for birds and stems that give them a place to hide when a predator is lurking about. For some marginally hardy KNOWLEDGE plants, TO GROW leaving the stems aids in Karen Weiland their overwintering. To help insulate the crowns of my chrysanthemums, I leave the stems standing and pack them with

leaves. If a perennial is a late riser in the spring, leaving the stems on will alert a person to not dig at that spot and harm the underground portion of it. There are some instances where you will want to cut back a perennial as in the case of a foliage disease. Diseased foliage should be removed to reduce the amount of re-infestation to the plant during the next growing season. If cutting is necessary or preferred, it should be done after the plant has gone dormant. This usually happens after a few hard frosts. When cutting, leave about 2 to 3 inches of the plant. Do not cut back to the soil as this

can result in injury to the plant due to the fact that in some perennials, next year’s buds are right at the surface or a bit higher and not below the soil line. Wait until late winter or spring to prune woody plants if possible. Cutting them in the fall will leave open wounds that will not heal quickly and be an invitation for disease to enter the plant. If you have done some late fall plantings of perennials I would recommend that they be mulched very well to prevent frost heaving and the chance that they will not survive the winter. I generally like to place about 2 to 3 inches

of bark mulch around a late planting. Fall is a good time to give your perennial beds a layer of protective mulch in general. Prior to mulching you may want to spread a layer of compost, about an inch or two, which is much easier done when the plants are cut back in the fall. If you have lots of different cultivars of a perennial, such as daffodils, hostas or daylilies, you might want to think about making a map of where they are located in your landscape. Labels have a way of working themselves out of the ground during the winter months or even during the growing season with plant maintenance, and get mixed

up…..a map can help you keep everything straight. As always, happy gardening. More information about gardening and related subjects is available online athort.purdue.edu/ext/garden_ pubs the Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service can be reached at 499-6334 in LaGrange County, 636-2111 in Noble County, 925-2562 in DeKalb County and 668-1000 in Steuben County. Karen Weiland, Purdue University Master Gardener, Purdue Extension, LaGrange County. KAREN WEILAND is a Master Gardener.


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